Sailed for and discovered in the year 1642

Australia – Tasmania | Anno 2024

 

Tuesday 19 November | Freycinet NP – Richmond – Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary – Hobart

 

 

Tuesday 19 November | Freycinet NP – Richmond – Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary – Hobart

In 1832, a carriage travelled for the first time from Hobart to Launceston. It must have been a colourful sight – coachmen in their scarlet-red jackets, white beaver hats, boots, and suspenders. The route they followed is now known as the Heritage Highway, a stone road built entirely by convicts. Just like the Old Convicts Road, which we will roughly follow southward today.

It must have been a colourful sight – coachmen in their scarlet-red jackets, white beaver hats, boots, and suspenders

These roads were constructed to connect southern Hobart with the interior and the ports along the northern and eastern coasts. For the convicts, it must have been gruelling labour – hauling heavy blue stones and carefully stacking them layer by layer to create a solid foundation. In some places, the road had to be carved into steep mountainsides along a river and then filled in. And all of this was done using nothing but pickaxes, shovels, wheelbarrows, and carts.

 

 

It is heavily overcast as we leave Freycinet National Park behind for good. The thermometer reads 11 °C (52 °F). It doesn’t take long before the sun gains the upper hand and the clouds gradually give way to reveal a blue sky.

Here and there, shrubs with beautiful yellow flowers stand out. Back in the day, the colonists thought it wise to bring this gorse from Europe as an ornamental hedge to brighten up the landscape and perhaps even imitate the English pastures. But nowadays, opinions have changed, as driver Rick points out. Gorse is now considered an invasive species. The dense, thorny shrub overgrows native vegetation and puts pressure on biodiversity. The fight against it seems never-ending, even with the use of helicopters and bulldozers, and despite the burning or spraying of hectares of weeds with herbicides. Its seeds can survive underground for up to thirty years. Moreover, not all landowners see the importance of eradicating the weed. For some, economic considerations take priority – does the price of sheep’s wool justify clearing the pastures?

As we reach the valley of the Swan River, vineyards once again appear outside the window. Many of them are new, young plantations, as it is only in the past two decades that Tasmania has truly entered the international wine market.

In short, it’s an ideal region for agriculture, particularly viticulture

 

A few years ago, in 2021, Swansea had the honour of celebrating its 200th anniversary. They are quite proud of this milestone, especially of Morris’ General Store – a shop and storage facility dating back to 1838 that is still in operation today. However, Swansea is by no means the oldest town in Tasmania. That title belongs to Hobart, the current capital, which was founded in 1803, while Swansea dates back to 1821. So, in less than twenty years, colonisation had spread more than 130 km northward along Tasmania’s east coast.

In less than twenty years, colonisation had spread more than 130 km northward along Tasmania’s east coast

Naturally, the people of Swansea wanted a proper road connecting them to Hobart and its port. But the government was not interested – or rather, it did not have enough convicts to carry out the work. It was only when around 500 convicts were stationed in Rocky Hills in 1841 that construction could finally begin. This led to the creation of the Old Convict Road between Swansea and Hobart.

One particularly bizarre structure appears along the road about seven kilometres south of Swansea. In fact, it is a bridge that carries the Old Convict Road over what is little more than a trickle of a river. It is called Spiky Bridge, and it certainly lives up to its name. The balustrades are covered with large, pointed stones, as if you were looking at the spiky tail of a stegosaurus.

 

The balustrades are covered with large, pointed stones, as if you were looking at the spiky tail of a stegosaurus

Spiky Bridge

Why that is, no one really knows. Some suggest it was meant to prevent cows from falling into the river. Others think it was to stop people from jumping to their deaths. That sounds rather unconvincing – if you were to jump from here, the worst injury you’d likely suffer would be a broken bone from laughing too hard.

However, if the original intention was to catch the attention of passers-by, then it certainly worked. Every self-respecting tourist makes a stop here.

 

 

Until now, we have mostly been traveling through a rural landscape dotted with farms, but small industrial areas are now beginning to appear. Triabunna can be considered the gateway to Maria Island. That sounds enticing, as the island, now a national park, has much to offer visitors. However, this was not always the case. In the 19th century, it served as a penal colony for convicts. Interestingly, the name triabunna comes from the Aboriginal word for the Tasmanian nativehen.

Orford, on the other hand, is a popular holiday destination. Tourism plays a key role here, but fishing and logging are also important industries. We now leave the coastal region behind and climb into the hilly interior through the valley of the Prosser River. In the past, the Old Convict Road ran along the opposite side of this river.

It was mostly bushrangers and escaped convicts you would encounter here. The church authorities saw an opportunity in this

The valley then opens up into a vast plain. A long, straight road takes us to Buckland, which was once a horse-changing station. This was a dangerous area – remote and surrounded by mountains on all sides. It was mostly bushrangers and escaped convicts you would encounter here. The church authorities saw an opportunity in this, as many lost souls were in need of salvation. So, convicts were put to work, as church building was also part of their skill set. This led to the construction of St John the Baptist Church in 1846, a replica of a parish church from Sussex, England. The result is remarkable – here, in distant Tasmania, you can find a stunning example of early medieval English church architecture.

Once we leave the mountains behind, we arrive in the fertile plains, where the historic town of Richmond is the central hub. A mountain range on either side provides natural protection against harsh weather, while the wide Coal River meanders slowly through the valley, moderating the climate. In short, it’s an ideal region for agriculture, particularly viticulture. Vineyards appear along the roadside, and we even spot a covered cherry orchard. Tasmanian cherries, it is said, are highly sought after in Japan.

It’s no surprise that the first settlers quickly recognised the value of the Coal River Valley. As early as 1803, coal was discovered south of Richmond. However, it turned out to be of poor quality, and mining operations were soon abandoned. Yet, that brief episode was enough to give the river its name.

One night in 1832, one of the wardens fell into a drunken sleep on Richmond Bridge. It doesn’t take much imagination to guess what happened next

Richmond Bridge

The showpiece of Richmond is its picturesque bridge over the Coal River. Built in 1823, it is the oldest sandstone bridge in Australia that is still in use today. Once the bridge was completed, Richmond developed rapidly. First came a courthouse, a prison, and a residence for the magistrate. Only afterward did private homes appear, followed by two inns.

This reflects the atmosphere of the time. After all, it was convicts who built the bridge, constructed the public buildings, and laid the roads. Such men needed to be kept under close watch, making the establishment of a strong repressive system essential.

“Never were men kept at work more efficiently, flogged more effectively, and guarded more strictly than in the chain gang”

One of the measures introduced for this purpose was the creation of chain gangs in 1826 – groups of forced labourers who were literally chained together. This form of punishment was reserved for the most serious offenders, based on the belief that harsh discipline was the key to reforming the criminal classes. Never were men kept at work more efficiently, flogged more effectively, and guarded more strictly than in the chain gang, concluded one report from that era.

 

Domestic Muscovy duck

The convicts certainly saw this as a dreaded punishment. Even children as young as 11 were not spared. Each member of a chain gang was fitted with iron shackles around their ankles, which had to be worn day and night and could weigh up to 4.5 kg – a painful and utterly exhausting ordeal. Moreover, the shorter the chain between the ankles, the harsher the sentence. During the day, the shackles were attached to a long chain, severely restricting movement. A telling sign of the system’s brutality was that the governor eventually decreed that no chain gang should consist of more than sixty prisoners.

A telling sign of the system’s brutality was that the governor eventually decreed that no chain gang should consist of more than sixty prisoners

Food shortages were a common struggle, as rations were distributed only once a week. To supplement their meagre provisions, convicts resorted to theft or set kangaroo traps – an act strictly forbidden. Those caught faced severe punishments. One prisoner, for example, received fifty lashes simply for checking his kangaroo traps between eleven at night and one in the morning.

Given these appalling conditions, it was only a matter of time before convicts rebelled. Perhaps the most well-known uprising was the Grass Tree Hill Rebellion in Richmond in the 1830s. Some prisoners refused to attend Sunday mass – a serious offense – or refused to work. At one point, an outright revolt broke out, led by five convicts who threatened their armed guards with pickaxes.

Once the bridge was completed, the convicts were assigned – oh, the irony – to build Richmond Gaol, the very prison in which they would sleep after a day of gruelling labour. From 1825 to 1853, it was a small hell on earth. There were later plans to demolish this infamous structure, but thankfully, they were abandoned. Today, Richmond Gaol stands as the oldest intact prison in Australia, offering a grim yet realistic glimpse into the harsh realities of the time.

One prisoner received fifty lashes simply for checking his kangaroo traps between eleven at night and one in the morning

Richmond Gaol stands as the oldest intact prison in Australia, offering a grim yet realistic glimpse into the harsh realities of the time

Richmond Gaol

It is a handsome, rectangular sandstone building, constructed around a small inner courtyard. But one cannot ignore the fact that it is, in reality, a very small structure – especially considering that it was originally even smaller, just a square building measuring fifteen by fifteen meters. Inside, it was divided into four rooms and a hallway.

Who spent their nights there? First and foremost, the prison warden, who claimed one of the four rooms for himself and his family. In addition, there were around forty men from a chain gang, their heavy iron shackles still on their feet, a dozen men and women imprisoned for minor offenses such as drunkenness, a few debtors who would not be released until they had paid what they owed, and a handful of Aboriginal people, captured in the bush as if they were stray game.

A notable addition was the solitary confinement cells – tiny spaces measuring just one by two meters

Solitary confinement cell

Pass for a convict with a Ticket-of-Leave

Ten years later, two wings and a separate residence for the prison wardens were finally added, giving the complex its current shape. A notable addition was the solitary confinement cells – tiny spaces measuring just one by two meters, where disobedient prisoners were locked away in complete isolation and total darkness.

Women, too, could be confined in these cells. However, it often happened that, after about three weeks of solitary confinement, a woman would immediately start hurling insults at the prison wardens – only to be thrown back into the cell for another three weeks. This speaks volumes about the conditions that awaited these women outside the prison when they were once again placed under the authority of their masters.

In some penal colonies, a kidney belt was used to minimise internal damage, but not at Richmond

Richmond Gaol – Flogging corner

Prisoners were frequently sentenced to flogging – sometimes 25 lashes, but often 75 or even 100. A designated corner of the courtyard was reserved for carrying out these punishments, where today a model of the wooden frame used to restrain prisoners can be seen. In some penal colonies, a kidney belt was used to minimise internal damage, but not at Richmond Gaol. Instead, salt was rubbed into the wounds to prevent infection – an act that also intensified the pain, a side effect considered beneficial.

A medical officer was always present to oversee the flogging. If it appeared that the prisoner’s life was in danger, the officer would order the punishment to stop, and the convict would be untied. However, any remaining lashes were merely postponed until the prisoner had recovered enough to endure them.

One of the wardens responsible for these floggings was George Grover, notorious for his cruelty. One night in 1832, he fell into a drunken sleep on Richmond Bridge. It doesn’t take much imagination to guess what happened next. In any case, no one was ever convicted of his murder. However, local whispers suggest that it’s best to avoid the bridge at night – Grover’s ghost is said to still haunt the area.

Does Australia still struggle with the stigma of having been founded as a penal colony, with many Australians tracing their ancestry back to real or alleged criminals? To quote the famous actor Peter Ustinov after his visit to Australia: I wouldn’t worry about a society descended from prisoners. I’d worry about one descended from their guards.

“I wouldn’t worry about a society descended from prisoners. I’d worry about one descended from their guards”

Richmond – St John’s Church

The exact reason is unclear, but this part of Coal River Valley has always had a dominant Irish presence. This partly explains why Richmond is home to the oldest Catholic church in Australia. St John’s Church was opened on New Year's Eve in 1837. The locals raised £700 for its construction, and the governor added another £500. The church is a beautiful yet modest structure, perched on a hill amidst lush plantings, overlooking the town.

 

Richmond – St John’s Church

In the porch, three twelve-year-olds from the nearby St John’s Catholic School diligently carry out their special task. Their job is to ring the bell precisely at noon. The end of the rope hangs between them, but first, they must recite a few prescribed prayers. They do so with a discipline that commands respect. Nothing can distract them, not even our presence.

 

Richmond Arms Hotel (1827)

We now leave Richmond behind. We have one more stop before reaching Hobart, and that is the Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary in Brighton, a centre dedicated to caring for native animals. And there are quite a few of them in Australia. We are familiar with popular favourites like the kangaroo, koala, and wombat. But when it comes to animals like the bettong, potoroo, pademelon, quoll, or quokka, we aren't exactly sure what to imagine.

When it comes to animals like the bettong, potoroo, pademelon, quoll, or quokka, we aren't exactly sure what to imagine

The uniqueness of these animals is, of course, due to the long isolation of the Australian continent. About 96 million years ago, it split off from the supercontinent Gondwana and began drifting northward. It wasn't until about 5 million years ago that it collided with Asia. During all this time, evolution was allowed to take paths that were not followed anywhere else in the world.

 

Richmond Hotel

A second important factor was the development of the circumpolar ocean current around Antarctica about 15 million years ago. This made Australia a relatively dry continent, which led to the evolution of many animal species adapted to arid conditions.

Tasmania adds even more to the mix. The small island is perhaps even more isolated from the rest of the world than the Australian mainland. Fewer predators have been introduced, and relatively much of the natural habitat has remained intact. As a result, Tasmania's fauna is very diverse. Many species that are extinct or on the brink of extinction on the mainland are still thriving in Tasmania.

Many species that are extinct or on the brink of extinction on the mainland are still thriving in Tasmania

When you think of Australia, you think of marsupials. However, marsupials did not originate in Australia but in South America. Once, the ancestor of all marsupials lived there, during a time when South America, Antarctica, Africa, India, and Australia were still part of the supercontinent Gondwana.

But about 160 million years ago, Gondwana began to break apart. In Australia, marsupials saw a bright future ahead of them. There were no competitors, and they could reproduce and evolve without hindrance.

In contrast, the situation in South America was less promising. The continent collided with North America, where a different type of mammals – placental mammals – reigned. The collision created a land bridge at what is now Panama, allowing placental mammals to invade South America. Soon, they proved to be superior and gradually displaced the pouch mammals.

 

Australian magpie

Marsupials are mammals whose females have a pouch. That might seem like a simple truth, but it's not their most typical feature. In fact, not all marsupials have a pouch. What is typical for marsupials is that females have two uteri, and thus, two vaginas. The males aren't left behind – they have a double or split penis.

When you think of Australia, you think of marsupials. However, marsupials did not originate in Australia but in South America

Just before the birth, a tiny birth canal develops between the two vaginas. It doesn't need to be large, as the joey – as an infant marsupial is called – is only about the size of a fingernail when it embarks on its exciting journey to the pouch. In most species, this birth canal disappears shortly after birth, but not in the kangaroo.

For most marsupials, it takes about thirty days before the joey begins its dangerous journey. At that stage, it is tiny, hairless, and blind. Only its forepaws are developed, as it needs them to crawl into the pouch. And it must be quick because if it doesn't reach the nipple soon enough, it will die. Using a swimming-like motion, it propels itself through the mother's fur towards the nipple. Once it latches onto the nipple, it begins to suck. After about two months, its jaws will be developed enough to detach from the nipple.

Once the joey is big enough, it will leave the pouch. However, it will still return frequently to drink and… rest. Even when it no longer fits in the pouch, it will continue to stick its snout into the pouch to drink milk for some time.

It is not the pouch that is the most typical characteristic of marsupials, but the fact that the females have two uteruses, and therefore also two vaginas

Wombat

Monica will guide us through the Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary. She is one of the many volunteers who staff this centre. But she emphasises that this is not a zoo; the animals here are only temporary. Healthy animals are released back into their natural habitat as soon as possible. To achieve this, they operate a 24/7 Wildlife Rescue Service that you can call at any time of the day or night if you see an animal in distress. They also have a full-fledged Wildlife Hospital where surgeries can be performed. To give an idea – last year, the centre carried out over 600 rescue operations and processed 17,500 phone calls.

Bingo is one of the wombats currently under their care. Unfazed, she grazes in her fairly large enclosure. Only 12 months old, she already has lost her mother. She currently weighs 10 kg. Only when she reaches 15 to 18 kg will she undergo a period of gradual release, during which she will eventually sever all ties with the centre and be set free.

Wrongly, the Tasmanian devil gained a fierce reputation as a predator among the early colonists

Tasmanian devil

And there it is, the living icon of Tasmania. From its dark burrow, it's watching us. Just as we start to fear it won’t show itself, it cautiously emerges. It hesitates for a moment, standing at the entrance of its den with its black head, long whiskers, and the broad white stripe across its chest clearly visible. But then it begins to run around playfully.

It's no bigger than a small dog, yet it has earned the name Tasmanian devil. Wrongly, it gained a fierce reputation as a predator among the early colonists. But it's not really a hunter at all. It can only see a meter ahead and doesn’t run faster than 13 km/h – even a chicken runs faster, Monica chuckles.

In relation to its body size, the Tasmanian devil has the strongest jaws of any land carnivore – stronger than those of a pit bull or an African hyena

Tasmanian devil

In fact, the Tasmanian devil is a scavenger, you could say an omnivore, as it devours the entire carcass, including the bones. In relation to its body size, it has the strongest jaws of any land carnivore – stronger than those of a pit bull or an African hyena. It can gorge on up to 40% of its body weight in just half an hour. Its excellent sense of smell allows it to quickly locate carcasses.

On average, females give birth to 20 to 30 live young after a pregnancy of about three weeks. But here, evolution seems to have made a mistake. The female only has four nipples, meaning that most newborns have short lives, very short ones in fact. They immediately enter a fierce battle for survival as they swim through the sticky mucus flow from the vagina toward the pouch. The pouch actually has an opening at the back, just like the wombat's.

The Tasmanian devil used to inhabit mainland Australia, but it went extinct there around 3,500 years ago. Today, it is only found on Tasmania. It now holds the title of the largest carnivorous marsupial in the world. In the past, this title belonged to the thylacine, also known as the Tasmanian tiger due to the stripes on its back, but it has since become extinct. Monica shares with a touch of bitterness that human error led to the extinction of the last thylacine in 1936. It was locked out of its cage overnight in the Hobart Zoo and froze to death.

Unfortunately, this is exactly what the males do during the breeding season

Tasmanian devil

Speaking of extinction, the fate of the Tasmanian Devil has also hung by a thread. In 1996, the devil facial tumour disease (DFTD) suddenly emerged – an aggressive, transmissible cancer. The disease is mainly spread through biting, when the canines come into contact with infected cells. Unfortunately, this is exactly what the males do during the breeding season – fight with each other over females, often biting fiercely. Since females only mate with the dominant male, it's the fully grown, fittest animals that are the first to be struck down by the deadly disease.

In the two decades since the disease was first observed, the population of Tasmanian devils has declined by 80%, with some areas seeing more than a 90% reduction. Virtually all of Tasmania has suffered from the disease. Currently, there is no known vaccine. The only thing the government can do is monitor the wild populations to remove sick animals in time, relocate colonies of healthy devils to other islands, and collaborate with zoos worldwide to spread the risk.

But there's a third group, often considered the oddballs among mammals: the egg-laying mammals

Echidna

Tamagochi is blind, and Luigi had to have a leg amputated after being hit by a car. Despite that, these two echidnas are doing well. They are quite unique creatures. The majority of mammals are placental animals, with marsupials forming another significant group. But there's a third group, often considered the oddballs among mammals: the egg-laying mammals. These creatures are also known as monotremes, as they have just one opening for mating, birthing, urinating, and defecating. Today, only five species of monotremes exist: the famous platypus, and four species of echidnas.

Female echidnas don't mate every year. When they're in the mood, they leave a scent trail that attracts the males. Sometimes, this results in a funny sight where up to six males follow the female in a train-like procession. After mating, it takes three to four weeks for the female to lay a small, sticky egg. To do this, she flips onto her back so she can tuck the egg safely into her pouch. Since the egg is sticky, it won't roll out. This pouch is only temporary and disappears afterward.

They can do this up to a hundred times per minute – almost twice per second, an incredible speed

Echidna

After ten to eleven days, the baby hatches from the egg. It is bald, tiny, and weighs only 0.3 to 0.4 grams. However, it already has one tooth – just to break the eggshell. After that, it feeds on its mother’s milk, but in a very unusual way. Echidna mothers don’t have nipples. Instead, milk seeps from special milk patches on their skin, where the baby can lick up the nutritious droplets.

After two to three months, the baby must leave the pouch. By that time, it has developed sharp spines, which the mother finds quite unpleasant.

As their name suggests, echidnas primarily feed on ants and termites. With their strong claws, they dig into the ground, then strike rapidly with their long, sticky tongue. They can do this up to a hundred times per minute – almost twice per second, an incredible speed.

For the rest, it feels like you are looking at a mini version of a crocodile

Blotched blue-tongued skink

What we would simply call a lizard turns out to be a blotched blue-tongued skink. They’ve named it Frank. Apparently, the sanctuary also takes care of such animals. Skinks differ from other lizards mainly due to their short legs and lack of a distinct neck. For the rest, it feels like you are looking at a mini version of a crocodile. Their biggest enemies in Tasmania? Lawnmowers and domestic cats.

When they sit completely still with their eyes closed on a dead branch, they are nearly indistinguishable from their surroundings

Tawny frogmouths

Tawny frogmouths are masters of camouflage. When they sit completely still with their eyes closed on a dead branch, they are nearly indistinguishable from their surroundings. Their plumage, with patterns of white, black, and brown stripes and spots, blends in perfectly. Cars are their biggest threat. In the darkness of night, they are easily lured by the insects that appear in the glow of headlights, only to be struck by passing vehicles. Often, they sustain injuries that leave them unable to hunt ever again, making them permanent residents of the sanctuary.

A pure white animal stands no chance in the bush, as predators would easily spot it

Pademelon

We had never heard of a pademelon before. It turns out to be one of the smallest species of kangaroo. Fly is one such pademelon – specifically, a red-bellied pademelon, the species commonly found throughout Tasmania. Fly was discovered mourning beside its mother’s lifeless body after she had been hit by a car. In a way, it was a blessing in disguise because Fly is an albino. A pure white animal stands no chance in the bush, as predators would easily spot it. For this reason, Fly also became a permanent resident of the sanctuary.

 

Forester kangaroo

 

In the middle of the park, a few dozen forester kangaroos roam in relative freedom. They don’t seem particularly energetic – most are lying down, sitting, lounging, or just hanging around. Sometimes they’re called great grey kangaroo, but despite that name, they are not the largest kangaroos. That title belongs to the famous red kangaroo, which can be found in the central arid regions of the Australian mainland.

 

Snakes play a crucial role in the ecosystem, especially since Tasmania lost its top predator, the thylacine

Tasmanian tiger snake

Tasmania is home to three species of snakes, and all of them are venomous. One of these is the Tasmanian tiger snake. Snakes play a crucial role in the ecosystem, especially since Tasmania lost its top predator, the thylacine. Today, snakes are among the primary regulators of wild mouse and rat populations. The tiger snake gets its name from the black and yellow stripes on its back, which resemble those of a tiger. However, the Tasmanian subspecies is entirely black, making the resemblance less obvious.

Their primary concern was the presence of French explorers in the region

Hobart, the capital of Tasmania, is now only a half-hour drive away. The city boasts one of the world’s deepest natural harbours. However, that wasn’t the main reason the British founded it in 1803, just fifteen years after Sydney. Their primary concern was the presence of French explorers in the region – they feared that the French might attempt to claim Tasmania for themselves.

 

Hobart Town Hall

From the very beginning, Hobart was designated as a British penal colony, a status that lasted until 1850. Soon after, the city developed into an important centre for shipbuilding and whaling. Eventually, it also gained recognition as a gateway to Antarctica. Today, Hobart is one of only five cities worldwide that provide logistical support for Antarctic expeditions, alongside Christchurch in New Zealand, Punta Arenas in Chile, Ushuaia in Argentina, and Cape Town in South Africa.

Driver Rick vividly recalls the disaster of 5 January 1975, as if it happened yesterday

Today, Hobart lies between the hills on either side of the mouth of the Derwent, the river we have been following for some time now. Our driver, Rick, points out the Tasman Bridge, a structure nearly 1.4 km long and over 60 meters high. He vividly recalls the disaster of 5 January 1975, as if it happened yesterday. That evening, a cargo ship crashed into two bridge piers, causing a 127-meter section of the roadway to collapse into the river.

Fortunately, traffic was light that Sunday night. Still, four cars plunged into the water, resulting in five deaths, while two others managed to stop just in time – their front wheels hanging precariously over the broken edge. Seven crew members aboard the sinking ship perished as well. Investigators later attributed the accident to a combination of strong tidal currents and the captain’s inattention. It took two years to repair the bridge, during which time the eastern suburbs of Hobart were cut off from the rest of the city.

The grand chandeliers that illuminate the room were installed at the initiative of Doone Kennedy, Hobart’s first female mayor, who served in the 1980s

Hobart Town Hall – Ballroom

Government House glides past the window in the distance – the official residence of the Governor of Tasmania. The governor represents King Charles III of England, who remains the head of state for Australia and thirteen other nations within the Commonwealth. Another iconic landmark is the Federation Concert Hall, an oval, copper-coloured building along the waterfront that has been home to the Tasmanian Symphony Orchestra since 2001.

Shortly after four, we arrive at our hotel, leaving plenty of time to explore part of Hobart. The sun is shining, the sky is slightly cloudy, but once again, that icy wind is ever-present. Just around the corner stands the Town Hall, home to the city’s government. The sandstone building is said to have been partially inspired by the Palazzo Farnese in Rome. After some hesitation, we venture up to the first floor, where we find the famous ballroom. The grand chandeliers that illuminate the room were installed at the initiative of Doone Kennedy, Hobart’s first female mayor, who served in the 1980s.

 

St David’s Cathedral

Through the arcades, we enter the neo-Gothic St David’s Cathedral, the mother church of the Anglican Diocese of Tasmania. The foundation stone was laid in 1868 – by none other than a son of Queen Victoria. The many stained-glass windows cast a rich tapestry of light inside. At the front, a wooden rood screen separates the choir from the nave, adding to the cathedral’s historic charm.

If you’re sipping a drink at the bar, you might find yourself in the company of a ghost, listening involuntarily to one of the colourful stories

Victoria Tavern

Opposite the cathedral is the Victoria Tavern. Established in 1836, it holds the title of the oldest continuously licensed pub in Tasmania. If you’re sipping a drink at the bar, you might find yourself in the company of a ghost, listening involuntarily to one of the colourful stories, such as: “The whale we sighted off the s’west coast was twice as big as our schooner. It could have swallowed Hobart Town. We didn’t think we’d ever get back, much less land the whale. The rain came down so hard it was like being pelted with ten tonnes of lead as the whale started pulling the ship under the sea. Call me Ishmael.”

 

Athenaeum Club

The Athenaeum Club, built in 1903, is a fine example of the Neo-Baroque Edwardian style. To us, the building feels somewhat pompous with its heavily extended façade featuring columns spanning two floors.

The cannons were never actually needed to fend off an invasion

Where Princess Park now stands, a battery of cannons was set up in 1818 as part of coastal defence. Because, with those troublesome French, you never knew what might happen. The cannons were never actually needed to fend off an invasion, but were occasionally fired for ceremonial salutes. As the city expanded, however, homes started to encroach upon the area. In 1878, it was even determined that the cannon placement could attract enemy fire to the surrounding neighbourhood. So, the cannons were decommissioned. However, the suburb kept its name, Battery Point.

Today, this heritage site has become a hotspot for affluent city dwellers, offering proximity to the water, tranquillity, and a green environment. On the real estate market, Battery Point scores very high. Yet, several of its streets have managed to retain their historic character, especially in terms of colonial architecture.

We begin our exploration via Hampden Road. At number 103, we immediately come across Narryna, a former merchant house from the 1830s. Today, it houses a Heritage Museum, showcasing household items, furniture, costumes, and portraits from that time. Built in Georgian style, it almost resembles a temple. This is no accident, as Greek revival architecture was in vogue at the time. Hence, the four pilasters on the façade, each topped with a capital that seems to support a frieze on which the roof rests. The front door is also flanked by four slender columns.

Narryna is built in Georgian style, but it looks a bit like a temple. This is no accident, as Greek revival architecture was in vogue at the time

Narryna

In short, this house was built by a wealthy merchant. However, it wasn’t all smooth sailing for the builder, Captain Andrew Haig. Originally, he had acquired a license from the British East India Company to trade between Calcutta and Canton or present-day Guangzhou. He used this license to smuggle opium into China, in return for which he brought back rich cargoes of porcelain, silk, tea, lacquer, and zinc.

From this shady trade, he accumulated enough capital to settle in Hobart as a merchant, shipbuilder, and whaler. He was in his early forties when he had Narryna built in 1834, along with two warehouses by the water. However, he was not fortunate with the economy, as a recession hit almost all the Australian colonies from 1840. The whaling industry also collapsed. In 1842, just two years after Narryna was completed, he was forced to sell not only his mansion but also his two warehouses.

Once across the street stood the Queen Alexandra Hospital, where, among others, the current Queen Mary of Denmark was born, as well as Errol Flynn, widely considered to be the most handsome man to ever act in Hollywood, according to well-placed sources.

It’s artistic lacework made of wrought iron, known as Victorian filigree

Victorian filigree

Further along, our attention is drawn by the beautiful, pristine white balustrades on the veranda of a house. It’s artistic lacework made of wrought iron, known as Victorian filigree. On the front facade, the names Mafeking and Pretoria are inscribed, referring to two battles during the Second Boer War where the British dealt a heavy blow to the Boers.

 

This neighbourhood will inevitably become the holiday resort of the Beau Monde, the auctioneer was quoted in The Courier of 3 March 1847

Arthur Circus

Sixteen little houses around a circular park form the heart of Battery Point. This spot is called Arthur Circus, named after George Arthur, the then governor of Tasmania, who bought the land in 1829 for a mere pittance. He knew that major investments were planned along the waterfront, which would significantly increase the value of this land. In 1847, he sold it for more than five times what he had paid for it. Nowadays, we would call that insider trading.

 

Arthur Circus

This neighbourhood will inevitably become the holiday resort of the Beau Monde, auctioneer John Charles Stracey was quoted in The Courier of 3 March 1847. A bold statement, and it took more than a century and a half for it to come true. The houses now standing here date from the 1840s and 1850s. For over a hundred years, these were workers' cottages where dock workers, coopers, sailmakers, carpenters, and others lived with their large families close to their work. Today, the beautifully restored homes are highly sought after.

In this city, Victorian architecture proves to have many faces

Lenna

In this city, Victorian architecture proves to have many faces. Take, for example, Lenna, an imposing building that has overlooked the city from this hill since the 1870s. The builder, shipping magnate Alexander McGregor, apparently had a fondness for Italian style. The result is a stunning facade, featuring two bay windows, a veranda extending over two floors, a columned gallery, and at the very top, a balustrade.

Apparently, the builder wasn't afraid of the unconventional, as he added Gothic elements to his Victorian house

Gingerbread House

And what about the Gingerbread House, the house in gingerbread style? Apparently, the builder wasn't afraid of the unconventional, as he added Gothic elements to his Victorian house – gable ends, a steep gabled roof with a prominent dormer, and delicate white bargeboards along the roof edges…

He must have been quite a man, the adventurer James Kelly. After all, sailing around Tasmania in an open whaling boat with five oars in 1816, like he did, takes a lot of courage. As a whaler, he was very successful. His whale oil brought in enough to buy a plot of land on Battery Point. Later, Kelly Street and its picturesque little houses came into being. But it’s mainly Kelly’s Steps that keep his name alive. For hundreds of workers, it must have been a daily routine to descend from the hill via these steps in the morning to work on the waterfront, and return home in the evening.

It is mainly Kelly's Steps that keep his name alive

Kelly Street

We also descend via these picturesque steps to the waterfront. This brings us to the Abel Tasman Memorial, the monument dedicated to Abel Tasman, the Dutchman after whom this island is named. He originally called the island Anthoonij Van Diemenslandt, after the Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies, under whose orders he sailed. The monument inscribes his mission: “All continents and islands, which you shall discover, touch at, and set foot on, you will take possession of on behalf of Their High Mightinesses of the States General of the United Provinces”.

 

This is sailed for and discovered with the ships Heemskerck and Zeehaen under the command of Vanden E. Abel Tasman in the year 1642 on 24 November

Abel Tasman Memorial

It is a rather modest monument: a rough white rock with the stars of the Southern Cross in bronze, a fountain with two bronze ships, and a life-sized bronze statue of Abel Janszoon Tasman. The plaque quotes an excerpt from Tasman’s notes in Dutch: “Anthony Van Diemens Landt Dit is beseijlt ende ondeckt met de Scheepen Heemskerck ende Zee-haen Onder ’t Commande Vanden E. Abel Tasman Inden Jare 1642 den 24 November”, meaning “Antony Van Deimens Landt. This is sailed for and discovered with the ships Heemskerck and Zeehaen under the command of Vanden E. Abel Tasman in the year 1642 on 24 November”. It is believed that Tasman was off Macquarie Harbour on Tasmania's west coast at the time of the discovery.

This distant, unknown island under down under has captivated us from the start

We can hardly imagine a better conclusion to our exploration of Tasmania. This distant, unknown island under down under has captivated us from the start, with its wild nature, surprising fauna and flora, and the fates of its Aboriginals, convicts, and colonists.

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Jaak Palmans
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