He counted for two, that half man

Colombia | Anno 2024

 

Thursday 14 March | Cartagena – Getsemaní – Manga

Friday 15 March | Cartagena

 

 

Thursday 14 March | Cartagena – Getsemaní – Manga

A radiant sun, an azure sea, pearly white beaches, and ruthless pirates – that's what you spontaneously associate with the Caribbean. Cartagena has it all, or so we've been told. But the city offers much more, as it turns out. For centuries, this coastal city was the most important hub for the Spaniards during their plundering expeditions in the northwest corner of South America. Through here, the silver from Bolivia and the gold from Peru flowed toward the Spanish king. It was also through here that enslaved Africans were brought in to do the heavy labour in Colombia's fields and mines.

For centuries, this coastal city was the most important hub for the Spaniards during their plundering expeditions in the northwest corner of South America

The city was, so to speak, the gateway to the New World. This position brought great wealth, and many of its inhabitants became rich overnight. Cartagena owed this key role primarily to its favourable location – a sheltered bay on the northern coast of present-day Colombia. However, Cartagena's prosperity was not simply handed to it.

 

Baluarte de Santo Domingo

In 1500, barely eight years after Christopher Columbus set foot on one of the islands of the Bahamas, the Spaniards began exploring the northern coast of South America. This quickly ended disastrously. The indigenous population repeatedly managed to push the invaders back, and the Spaniards lost interest – for the time being.

Not so much because she would become Pedro's concubine, but primarily because she was fluent in both Spanish and several indigenous languages

However, in 1533, it was Pedro de Heredia who seized his opportunity. He brought three ships, carrying 150 soldiers and 22 horses. And, just as importantly, India Catalina was part of the expedition. Her role would ultimately be crucial. Not so much because she would become Pedro's concubine, but primarily because she was fluent in both Spanish and several indigenous languages. As the daughter of a local chief, she had been captured by the Spaniards at a very young age and raised in the Spanish Christian tradition. Nevertheless, she remained a slave her entire life.

For three months, Heredia travelled through the interior to pacify the region. In practice, this meant that the local tribes had to accept his authority and surrender their gold. As a translator, India Catalina was responsible for ensuring that there were no misunderstandings about this. Some call her a traitor, some call her a helpless slave, and some call her a heroine. The fact is that her presence undoubtedly prevented many massacres. In Cartagena, she has been honoured with an impressive monument.

Pirates descended on the city like flies on sugar

Monumento a India Catalina

Baluarte de Santa Catalina

Once Cartagena reached its full development, there were pirates on the coast. Literally. The gold, silver, and other treasures waiting in the harbour for transport to Spain made the city a particularly attractive target. Pirates descended on the city like flies on sugar, often encouraged and partially funded by Spain's enemies – England, France, and the Netherlands. In the 16th century alone, Cartagena endured five sieges by pirates.

Do not underestimate such a siege; these were often real armies. For example, Francis Drake commanded 23 ships and 3,000 men when he captured the city in 1586. A century later, in 1697, French pirates outdid that, attacking with 29 ships, 500 cannons, and 5,200 troops. Time and again, the city was plundered and partially destroyed.

As the icing on the cake, the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas was built, the largest military structure of the Spaniards in South America

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas

But Cartagena made a comeback. They set to work on an impressive city wall measuring thirteen kilometres – walls that still stand intact today, including the tiny city gates, as we noticed last night. Additional protection came from a belt of small and large forts that primarily controlled access from the sea. Bocagrande, the larger of the two waterways leading into the bay, was blocked by boulders, while the smaller Bocachica was defended by two forts. And as the icing on the cake, the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas was built on a hill, the largest military structure in South America, widely praised as one of the finest examples of Spanish military architecture.

This strategy paid off. This was evident in 1741 when English Admiral Edward Vernon appeared with a fleet of 186 ships and 25,000 men. Confident of victory, he had already had his victory medals minted. Opposing him was a poorly armed army of barely 2,500 men, lacking much experience, under the command of Admiral Blas de Lezo.

In battle he counted for two, that half man

Baluarte de Santa Cruz

Baluarte de Santa Catalina

The Mediohombre, the Half-man, that's what Blas de Lezo was called by his men. Because in previous battles he had already lost… an arm, a leg and an eye. But in battle he counted for two, this half man. With unprecedented bravery, he managed to lead his troops to victory. This frustrated the English, who, to their astonishment, failed to capture the fortress. For Blas de Lezo, this was his final act of valour. In the heat of battle, he lost his other leg, an injury that ultimately proved fatal.

In short, summarizes our city guide Isaac his story, we have quite a bit to see today. For within those ancient city walls lies an authentic colonial town that has excellently preserved its historical architecture, earning recognition as a World Heritage site.

Isaac is a smooth talker, knows his city inside and out, speaks excellent English, and has already been to the USA and Europe. Not bad, considering he claims to have been born into class 1, has managed to work his way up to class 2 and 3 with perseverance, and is now aiming for class 4. In Colombia, as we now know, your social class is determined by where you live. Classes 1 and 2 are for people from the slums, while classes 5 and 6 make up the wealthier upper echelon. In between are the middle-class people of classes 3 and 4. It is primarily the characteristics of your housing and the quality of the neighbourhood that determine which class you belong to.

1492 is not the year America was discovered, 1492 is the year the conquest of America began

Even now, ships regularly appear from the sea to overrun Cartagena. But these aren’t grim pirate ships; they are cruise ships with peaceful intentions. On normal days, around six thousand visitors swarm the city. Two weeks ago, according to Isaac, as many as six cruise ships were in port, resulting in a tsunami of 17,000 visitors flooding the narrow streets of the old town. Peace and authenticity are then hard to find.

Today, however, it is a bit quieter. Only one cruise ship is docked in the harbour. Coaches are waiting for the American tourists at the dock. There are at least seventeen coaches, judging by the numbers stuck on their windshields. That’s what Isaac calls a bit quieter.

Our first destination isn’t the old town within the walls, but the suburbs of Getsemaní and Manga. This way, we avoid the peak of the crowds. More importantly, we also get to experience the immense diversity the city has to offer. With Luis behind the wheel, we have the second-best driver in Cartagena, jokes Isaac. Who then is the best driver? Luis's wife, of course, he grins. The tone is set. With a nice mix of humour and historical critique, he will guide us through the city.

Isaac doesn’t mince words. 1492 is not the year America was discovered, he insists; 1492 is the year the conquest of America began. And this often happened with ruthless cruelty and violence. The fact that Heredia felt it necessary to exterminate the local Calamarí to establish his city here illustrates that.

Today, Cartagena is the fifth-largest city in Colombia, after Bogotá, Medellín, Cali, and Barranquilla. The exact population of the city is not entirely clear. Officially, it is estimated to be around 220,000. However, Isaac doesn’t hesitate to casually add a million to that figure, as the city has recently been flooded with Venezuelan refugees.

There is no doubt about it – this ostentatious district is the result of shameless drug money laundering

Cartagena with Bocagrande in the background

Be that as it may, even among the legitimate inhabitants a large part lives below the poverty line. But that’s something you can hardly imagine when you look at the flashy skyline of the new Cartagena. That string of dozens of white skyscrapers on the Bocagrande peninsula almost resembles Miami Beach. This is the trendiest neighbourhood in Cartagena, the richest and most expensive, and also the favourite spot for drug lords. There is no doubt about it – this ostentatious district is the result of shameless drug money laundering. Public transport is deliberately not available here, because it would only attract the impoverished.

Hardly had Europe dealt with Napoleon in 1815 when a Spanish military force arrived to settle the score and ‘pacify’ the city

Luis drops us off at Martyrs’ Square. Don’t mind the sweltering heat, Isaac reassures us; in the afternoon, a sea breeze will bring some relief. A little further on lies Parque Centenario, established in 1911. At its centre stands the Freedom Monument, an obelisk that reminds us that the city was quick to proclaim its independence. This officially happened on 11 November 1811, at 11 o'clock, by 11 individuals – some theatricality was not lost on them. But that zeal came at a high cost. Hardly had Europe dealt with Napoleon in 1815 when a Spanish military force arrived to settle the score and pacify the city. Six thousand residents lost their lives at that time.

Apparently, there is quite a bit of life in this park. Difficult to spot among the leaves, a sloth hangs in a tree. It’s probably nibbling on leaves, as that is about all it eats. Those leaves aren’t very nutritious, and they are not easily digested either. This compels sloths to adopt the slow lifestyle that gives them their name. At the same time, that is their strength. They move so slowly that predators rarely notice them. If you could get a sloth to travel one kilometre on the ground, it would take about 6.5 hours to do so.

While the dinosaurs have long been extinct, the green iguana continues to thrive

Green iguana

Among the bushes, a green iguana scuttles about, easily recognizable by the characteristic round scale at the back of its head. It's a rather creepy figure, with the spikes on its back, the arrowhead shapes on its skull, and a dewlap under its chin that looks like it's growing shark teeth. Yet this creature commands admiration, for it was once a contemporary of the dinosaurs. While the dinosaurs have long been extinct, the green iguana continues to thrive. Its tail is nearly twice the length of its body and is not as harmless as it appears. If an iguana feels threatened, it can strike out with it quickly as a whip. And it will aim at the face of its attacker.

In the past, you would never have found this bird of prey in a city

Yellow-headed caracara

A yellow-headed caracara struts across our path. In the past, you would never have found this bird of prey in a city. It prefers lightly wooded open landscapes, savannas, ranches, and pastures. However, it is an omnivore, with a particular interest in carrion, and food scraps are easy to find among urban waste. It has also learned that it has little to fear from humans.

Impoverished people found in the city after six in the evening were punished with 120 lashes

Parque Centenario – Freedom Monument

Torre del Reloj

We now stroll leisurely towards Getsemaní. In the past, this was the suburb of the poor. Isaac points in the distance to the Torre del Reloj, the clock tower above the main gate of the old city wall. Every day, that gate was closed at six o'clock in the evening. For the impoverished, this was the moment they had to leave the city and retreat to Getsemaní. If they were found in the city after that time, they faced a punishment of 120 lashes.

In June 2014, Forbes described the Getsemaní neighbourhood as Cartagena's Coolest New Neighbourhood

Getsemaní

Until just twelve years ago, it was better not to venture into Getsemaní if you had no reason to be there. The neighbourhood was known as one of the most dangerous places in Cartagena, according to Isaac. However, the local community took matters into their own hands and drove out all criminal activities. This did not go unnoticed, even by Forbes, which described the Getsemaní neighbourhood as Cartagena's Coolest New Neighbourhood in June 2014.

 

Getsemaní

To this day, Getsemaní has not lost its good reputation. On the contrary, we discover a lively neighbourhood that highly values diversity. Everyone can feel at home here – indigenous people, people of colour, mestizos, and mulattos. The joy of life bursts forth from vibrant murals in exuberant colours. The resemblance to the Comuna 13 project in Medellín is striking, although the graffiti here is stylistically of slightly lesser quality.

 

Apparently, Getsemaní aims to be a Ciudad Mural in the sense that the United Nations envisions it

 

Apparently, Getsemaní aims to be a Ciudad Mural in the sense that the United Nations envisions it – telling local stories, showcasing a local identity, and creating a sense of connection and social responsibility through the creation of collective murals.

 

 

Indeed, the walls of Getsemaní tell local stories. Isaac points out a portrait of the boxer Antonio Cervantes in full action. When he became world champion in the light welterweight division in 1972, the president of Colombia asked him what reward he wanted. According to Isaac, Cervantes replied, Electricity and running water for my people.

Every evening, the rhythmic sounds of the champeta still dominate the nightlife in the neighbourhood

Antonio Cervantes

Mr. Black, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Joe Arroyo and Blas de Lezo

Elsewhere, a mural depicts four local icons sitting together at a table. We've already met Blas de Lezo, the Half-man, and of course, we know Nobel Prize winner Gabriel García Márquez. New to us are Joe Arroyo and Mr. Black. They both made their mark in the music industry, with Joe Arroyo shining as a salsa singer and Mr. Black, whose real name is Edwin Antequera, being a key figure in champeta, the music genre that expresses Afro-Colombian identity. The rhythmic sounds of this music still dominate the nightlife in the neighbourhood every evening.

 

Priest Umaña and Pedro Romero with mural Pájaro in the background

This free-spirited character is also reflected in Plaza de la Trinidad. In the shadow of the golden façade of the Holy Trinity Church, statues of three men who played significant roles during the uprising of 1811 stand – Pedro Romero, the local leader of the revolt, priest Umaña, and a drummer. Behind them, against the façade of a house, we recognize the famous but partly damaged mural Pájaro, a huge wall painting of a blue bird.

It is a beautiful example of Moorish style, with its peach-coloured façade, golden wooden doors, white arches and battlements, and ceramic fountain

La Casa Román

Manga, on the other hand, was the neighbourhood where the wealthy elite of Cartagena built their villas in the 17th century. In a way, it is the antipode of Getsemaní. Many of those villas have since been demolished, but La Casa Román still stands. It is a beautiful example of Moorish style that we can admire from behind the fence, with its peach-coloured façade, golden wooden doors, elegant white arches and battlements, and a ceramic fountain with arabesque motifs on the benches in the foreground.

About three kilometres outside the city, on a hill 150 meters high, is the Convento de Santa Cruz de la Popa, the Convent of the Holy Cross of the Stern. The strange name comes from the shape of the hill on which it is built, which somewhat resembles the stern of a ship.

While Luis patiently navigates the bus up the winding roads, Isaac focuses on some socioeconomic aspects of his city. For example, the illegal economy. That it thrives here does not surprise us. And he is not even talking about drug trafficking. When Cartagena was deep in trouble in 2007, a miraculous solution suddenly emerged – mototaxis. Anyone who owned a motorcycle suddenly became part of the tax-free version of public transport. Nowadays, there are over 26,000 mototaxis in Cartagena, and it has become the most important means of transportation.

Everyone knows what happens there, but no one cares

Or consider the San Andresito markets, which you find in every Colombian city. Colombia has two islands in the Caribbean Sea, more than 700 km away from here. San Andrés is one of them. Through this island, electrical appliances are imported 'tax-free'. These goods are then sold openly at one of the San Andresito markets. Everyone knows what happens there, but no one cares.

Isaac candidly admits that Cartagena, and by extension Colombia, still faces significant problems. But fundamentally, this is a safe city; he is convinced of that.

So we arrive at the top of the hill, the highest point in the wide area. Immediately, from the parking lot, we are greeted with a spectacular view over Cartagena. But it's not the charming old town that captures our attention, it's the chilly skyline of Bocagrande. There are dozens of snow-white skyscrapers that seem to crowd each other on the peninsula.

Each of these skyscrapers is essentially a raised middle finger to the Colombian tax authorities

Cartagena– Manga and Bocagrande

Cartagena – Districts class 1 and 2

No one doubts that drug money has financed this unchecked growth. Each of these skyscrapers is essentially a raised middle finger to the Colombian tax authorities, Colombian justice, but most of all to the poor, who can barely keep their heads above water. We only need to shift our gaze 90° to the left to see the neighbourhoods of class 1 and 2, where many people don’t even have electricity or running water, according to Isaac.

The intention was to restore the Christian faith, as mulattos had begun worshiping an evil spirit in the form of a goat

As early as 1607, a modest wooden chapel stood on this unique site. This was the initiative of Vicente Mallot, an Discalced Augustinian monk. Soon after, construction began on a full-fledged monastery. According to chronicles, this happened after the Virgin Mary appeared to Brother Alonso de la Cruz Paredes and instructed him to build a church on the hill closest to Cartagena. The intention was to restore the Christian faith, as under the leadership of the native Luis Andrea, mulattos in the area had begun worshiping an evil spirit in the form of a goat.

 

Convento de Santa Cruz de la Popa

Brother Paredes wasted no time. Luis Andrea met a particularly painful end in the cells of the Inquisition, and the goat was thrown from the top of the hill. In short, the construction of the monastery began.

The monastery's unique location proved to be more of a concern than a blessing

However, the monastery's unique location proved to be more of a concern than a blessing. Whenever Cartagena was under siege, the monastery, given its strategic position, became one of the primary targets. After all, from here, you could oversee the entire surrounding area. Invasions and destruction became a constant occurrence, and historical archives are nowhere to be found – the site was repeatedly looted. It wasn’t until the late 18th century that the hilltop was reinforced with three military batteries.

 

Convento de Santa Cruz de la Popa – Retable

The batteries may have disappeared, but the monastery still stands. The buildings are constructed in a typical colonial style around a serene courtyard, where rainwater could be collected and directed into an underground cistern. At the centre of the chapel's altarpiece is a statue of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, the patron saint of the city.

 

 

As Luis drives us back down, Isaac continues his socioeconomic commentary. Cartagena's economy rests on three pillars. At the top is the chemical industry, particularly oil refining. Then, there’s tourism, which mostly provides employment for the lower classes. Lastly, there are important export products like coffee, cut flowers, leather, and emeralds. Of course, Colombian emeralds are the finest in the world, that goes without saying. Add to these the informal economy of mototaxis, and Cartagena is now managing fairly well, he concludes. Unlike other parts of Colombia, agriculture plays a lesser role here. Unemployment benefits, by the way, are limited to three months.

Healthcare services are provided by both public and private entities. The difference in quality is predictable, as is the difference in price. In a public hospital, you might wait two days for treatment, while in a private hospital, you’re attended to immediately. The same goes for secondary education, where private schools are said to be better than public ones. However, for higher education, the best institution is the public university. Entrance is free, but you must pass an entrance exam.

Colombia now has a left-leaning president, who, interestingly, is a former guerrilla fighter. Whether due to him or the pandemic, Isaac isn’t sure, but the price of a kilogram of tomatoes has doubled from two to four dollars in a short period. And while an apartment in the city centre used to cost $200,000, these days you'd need at least three million to buy one.

After laying siege for 25 days, they launched their attack at 5 am, only to get bogged down in the morning fog

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas

We’ve now arrived at the base of Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, the famous fort so successfully defended by Blas de Lezo in 1741, the Half-man known for his unrelenting bravery. However, as Isaac points out, there were other factors at play. The English were completely unprepared for the local weather conditions. After laying siege for 25 days, they launched their attack at 5 am, only to get bogged down in the morning fog. Once the fog lifted, they became easy targets for the Spaniards, who had a clear view of the entire battlefield from their loopholes. Six thousand English soldiers are said to have perished. Add the devastating effects of yellow fever and malaria, and the English defeat was sealed.

Confident of victory, the English admiral Edward Vernon had already had his victory medals minted

Blas de Lezo, the Half-man

‘Victory medal’ of admiral Edward Vernon

Today, a statue of Blas de Lezo stands as a reminder of his remarkable feat. With a determined expression, he holds a sword in his left hand, while his right arm and left leg are missing, and his right eye is covered by an eye patch. As Isaac amusingly mentioned earlier, De Lezo was quite the force to be reckoned with, not only on the battlefield but also in his personal life. The admiral left behind 35 children – presumably not all with the same woman.

No wonder the English wanted to start the battle as early as five in the morning. Perhaps they hoped to be done well before high tea

In a touch of Spanish irony, two copies of premature British victory medals are embedded in the statue’s base. One medal reads, The Spanish pride pulled down by Admiral Vernon, depicting Blas de Lezo kneeling before Vernon, supposedly acknowledging his defeat. The other, boldly self-assured, states True British heroes took Cartagena – April 1747, alongside an image of three British fleet ships.

 

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas with Convento de Santa Cruz de la Popa in the distance

We climb steadily toward the imposing fort atop the San Lázaro hill, standing more than forty meters above sea level. The sun beats down on our necks, with the thermometer reading 33 °C (91 °F), and our sweat offering little relief in the humid sea air. It's a mystery where anyone would find the energy to fight to the death in this climate. No wonder the English wanted to start the battle as early as five in the morning. Perhaps they hoped to be done well before high tea.

A perimeter underground gallery even featured rooms that could be detonated at the right moment to surprise attackers

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas

This is the largest fort ever built by the Spanish. Its layout can best be compared to a triangle, though at first glance its structure seems strange and confusing. However, the massive walls tapering upwards and the colossal battlements leave little doubt – this fort was nearly impossible to capture. It was permanently manned by a garrison of 200 soldiers and had eight batteries with a total of 68 cannons. A perimeter underground gallery even featured rooms that could be detonated at the right moment to surprise attackers.

What truly makes the fort unique, however, is its intricate labyrinth of tunnels. These tunnels connected all strategic locations, making it easy to supply and, if necessary, evacuate the fort. They were also constructed to amplify the slightest sound throughout the complex, which improved internal communication while making it impossible for enemies to approach unnoticed.

 

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas

A beer in this scorching midday heat? We won’t say no to that. Isaac serves us a Costeña, one of the most popular local beers in Colombia, but in the typical 175 ml bottles known as Costeñitas. These bottles are so small that, even in this heat, the beer doesn’t have a chance to warm up before it’s finished. A little later, we sit down to enjoy a delicious arroz con mariscos, the local version of Spanish seafood paella.

Exploring the old city is best done on foot, strolling through the maze of narrow streets and savouring the many surprises the historic centre of Cartagena has to offer – the impressive colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, charming plazas, wooden balconies, and the well-preserved homogeneity that has rightfully earned it World Heritage status.

Exploring the old city is best done on foot, strolling through the maze of narrow streets and savouring the many surprises the historic centre of Cartagena has to offer

Puerta del Reloj

Calle San Pedro with cathedral tower

This brings us to the ochre-coloured Puerta del Reloj, once the main gateway to the fortified city. Its name comes from the clock tower in post-classical style that rises above the structure. Originally, there was even a drawbridge in front of the gate, allowing the city to be completely sealed off from the outside world.

It was here that around ten thousand enslaved Africans arrived each year after a long and perilous journey across the Atlantic Ocean. The adjacent square, Plaza de los Coches, used to host the slave market. Today, nothing on the square directly recalls that infamous period. However, the Ruta Herencia Afro, or the Route of African Heritage, is an initiative by the local tourism office. This route guides interested visitors to several historical sites that played a significant role in the lives of the city's Black population.

As soon as a slave ship docked in the harbour, he would go aboard to tend to the enslaved captives

San Pedro Claver with enslaved African

One of those places is the square featuring the bronze statue of San Pedro Claver. He appears to be comforting an enslaved African. He was a truly remarkable man, you could call him the Father Damien of enslaved people. For forty years, he dedicated himself to their care. As soon as a slave ship docked in the harbour, he would go aboard to tend to the enslaved captives. Once ashore, he assisted them with medicine, food, bread and lemons – the latter mainly to combat scurvy. Day and night, he lived among the enslaved Africans.

Christianization was, of course, also part of his mission. He is believed to have baptized three hundred thousand enslaved Blacks by himself. However, he also fought for their rights as human beings and as Christians. Gradually, he managed to improve their situation, though not everyone greeted these efforts with applause.

 

 

The Santuario de San Pedro Claver that we are now looking at is the place where he spent his last years. The room where he died can still be visited. It was clearly destined for him to be canonized. Immediately after his death, overly enthusiastic believers stripped his room of its contents, as every object had now attained the status of a relic. His body is still preserved in a glass coffin beneath the altar.

You can't open a travel guide or tourist brochure about Colombia without finding a photo of a palenquera, often even on the cover

Palenqueras

In the square in front of the church, we cannot overlook them. Here too, as in other places in the old town, they are prominently present – the Black women dressed in blue, yellow, and red clothing, with a basket of tropical fruits perfectly balanced on their colourful turbans. More than anyone or anything else, these palenqueras in their vibrant outfits have become the emblem of Cartagena and, by extension, of all Colombia. You can't open a travel guide or tourist brochure about Colombia without finding a photo of a palenquera, often even on the cover.

The very first freetown on South American soil was born

To understand the origin of this phenomenon, we have to go back to 1691. Enslaved Black people did not always resign themselves to their hopeless fate. Some even managed to escape and flee into the interior. There, they settled in San Basilio de Palenque, a small, impoverished village about sixty kilometres southeast of Cartagena. A wooden fence, a palenque, was meant to offer some protection. Hence the name. Moreover, this was also the birthplace of boxing champion Antonio Cervantes.

 

Plaza San Pedro Claver

With great concern, the large landowners watched more and more black slaves finding their way to San Basilio de Palenque. So much so that the Spaniards decided to reach an agreement. In 1691, a royal decree was issued that granted Palenque independence from the Spanish colonizer, but with one condition – the freed Blacks had to stop helping their less fortunate counterparts escape. A condition that, as one might expect, was hardly adhered to.

In short, the very first freetown on South American soil was born. However, it was completely cut off from the rest of society and had only limited access to resources. In other words, the town remained desperately poor.

Now, the Black women took matters into their own hands. For there was something Palenque had in abundance – tropical fruit. Enterprising women filled their handwoven baskets with ripe tropical fruits and walked to Cartagena in their traditional African clothing. Gradually, this became a success. More and more women made the journey to the city and earned a steady income from selling fruit. Today, this is still the case, although the palenqueras no longer make the long journey on foot and now earn a significant part of their income by posing for tourists.

The local equivalent to the American Oscars is modelled after India Catalina

Premios India Catalina

Cathedral tower

Since 1960, Cartagena has hosted an annual international film festival. The awards presented at this festival are called the Premios India Catalina, which are equivalent to the American Oscars. However, the statuettes are modelled after India Catalina, the interpreter who played a significant role in the conquest expeditions of the Spanish conquistador Pedro de Heredia. A life-size version of the statuette stands outside the organization’s office, reminding every passer-by of this historical figure.

 

Plaza de Bolívar

 

On the shady Plaza de Bolívar, there's always something happening. Today, a few dancers are performing to the rhythm of a small percussion orchestra. Music and dance are second nature to South Americans, and this is evident here. This is the oldest square in Cartagena, dating back to the 16th century. Originally, it was mainly used for military parades. Today, it's a place to relax among the lush greenery and, who knows, enjoy an impromptu performance like today’s.

 

Former residence of Gabriel Garcia Marquez

The repurposing of historical buildings has also been put to good use. For instance, the impressive Convento de Santa Teresa has been transformed into a five-star hotel, with the centuries-old church serving as an event hall and the convent building as accommodations for guests. A similar fate befell the Convento de Santa Clara, where the nuns' cells have been turned into colonial suites, the orchard into a swimming pool, and the choir of the chapel into a bar. Across the street is a house that belonged to Gabriel Garcia Marquez, although the Nobel Prize winner seldom stayed there.

An underground crypt in the Santa Clara Convent, discovered in 1949, has been the subject of much speculation

Crypt in the Convent of Santa Clara

But there is more to the story. An underground crypt in the Santa Clara Convent, discovered in 1949, has been the subject of much speculation. If you descend into the crypt today – which, of course, we do only with permission from the hotel staff – you will find about six niches down below. Apparently, these were burial sites for nuns, but what was remarkable was that long red hair was found attached to the skull of one of the bodies. A legend was born, as the story quickly spread that this nun's hair continued to grow even after her death.

What was remarkable was that long red hair was found attached to the skull of one of the bodies. A legend was born

Door knocker
Door knocker

Gabriel García Márquez needed no more than that as inspiration for his novella Of Love and Other Demons. It tells a similar legend that he, as he himself writes in his prologue, heard from his grandmother at a young age. His story, however, revolves around a young twelve-year-old marchioness with long wavy hair, whom everyone believed to be a miracle worker. Her hair was not to be cut, but during an exorcism session, it was done against her will. After her death, her hair magically grew back on her skull.

 

Bocagrande at dusk

It's almost six o'clock when we sail into the Bahía de Cartagena on the catamaran. In the west, the sun has hidden behind the clouds, so there won't be a radiant sunset over the sea tonight. But there is music, drinks, and snacks on board, and the tropical climate guarantees a delightful atmosphere. In the distance, the dozens of white skyscrapers of Bocagrande shamelessly outline against the orange-red evening sky.

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Friday 15 March | Cartagena

It will be a sweltering hot day, with temperatures just above thirty degrees. But that won't stop us from exploring the old city one last time. We stroll through the historic streets to Plaza de Santo Domingo, a square with an unpleasant past. This is where the Inquisition executed its victims, particularly Jewish people, but also heretics and other non-Catholics.

This is where the Inquisition executed its victims, particularly Jewish people, but also heretics and other non-Catholics

Iglesia de Santo Domingo

The golden façade dominating the square is part of the Iglesia de Santo Domingo. It is one of the oldest churches in Cartagena, built starting in 1552. You don't need to be a qualified architect to immediately notice that something is off with the square tower – the upper part is leaning. And that wasn't the only blunder made by the builders. They had designed the nave too wide, and the roof turned out to be too heavy, causing the vault to develop cracks soon after construction. Heavy buttresses on either side of the building were needed to address this problem. The explanation for all these issues was straightforward: at one point, the devil attempted to jump onto the church's roof. That failed miserably, but the exploit did have serious consequences for the building.

That wasn't the only blunder made by the builders

Iglesia de Santo Domingo

Buttresses

Fernando Botero also left his mark here. In 2000, he gifted one of his bronze sculptures, Figura Reclinada 92, to the city, requesting that it be permanently displayed in a square within the city walls. People spontaneously began calling the sensual, voluminous sculpture of the naked reclining woman La Gorda Gertrudis, or Fat Gertrude. Moreover, it soon became widely believed that stroking her breasts guarantees a long-lasting romantic relationship. The wear on the sculpture at those specific spots leaves no doubt – many in Cartagena and beyond enjoy a lifelong loving relationship.

It soon became widely believed that stroking her breasts guarantees a long-lasting romantic relationship

La Gorda Gertrudis (Figura Reclinada 92, Botero)

The many attacks from the sea have not spared the city walls of Cartagena. Time and again, they had to be repaired, sometimes even completely rebuilt or adapted to the new needs of warfare. Yet, strolling along the broad ramparts, we still get an excellent view of them. Four centuries old, they stretch over a length of no less than thirteen kilometres.

It was a very symbolic place where the first stone of the city wall was laid in 1614

It was a very symbolic place where the first stone of the city wall was laid in 1614, namely exactly where Francis Drake had successfully invaded the city in 1586. The message was clear – Cartagena would not be caught off guard a second time. Thus, the Baluarte de Santa Domingo was established. It would later evolve into a pointed bastion with that typical structure where you immediately recognize the ideas of Vauban.

 

Baluarte de Santa Clara

Baluarte de San Diego

As we stroll further northeast, with the foamy waves of the Caribbean Sea to our left, the bastions follow one another in succession – Baluarte de Santa Cruz, Plataforma de Ballestas, Baluarte la Merced, Baluarte de San Diego, and so on. Occasionally, a small city gate like the Puerta del Boquetillo offers a tiny passage for cars or small delivery vans.

 

Puerta del Boquetillo

Between the Baluarte de Santa Clara and the Baluarte de Santa Catalina, the Spaniards had their gunpowder magazine placed. Of course, it could not be too far from their cannons, but it also should not be an easy target for the enemy. The 23 vaults of Las Bóvedas are therefore bomb-proof.

Twice a day, during high tide, seawater would flood the cells up to knee height

Las Bόvedas

During the civil wars of the 19th century, Las Bóvedas served as a prison. Twice a day, during high tide, seawater would flood the cells up to knee height. Considering that staying in a Spanish cell was no joke anyway, this is a haunting observation. Nowadays, there is no longer a fear of flooding. Land reclamation around the city walls has removed that threat.

 

Sometimes they showcase beautiful products crafted with care, while at other times they offer outright disgusting creations

 

Nowadays, it is souvenir shops and boutiques that have taken over these 23 vaults. Sometimes they showcase beautiful products crafted with care, while at other times they offer outright disgusting creations. Such as T-shirts featuring the grinning face of Pablo Escobar and his sinister motto Plata o Plomo, Silver or Lead. The latter meant that you were faced with a ‘choice’ – cooperate with the drug gangs and receive bribes (silver), or refuse to cooperate and get a bullet (lead). Apparently, a part of the clientele still harbours a form of perverse adoration for the drug criminal.

We pause for a moment at the Monumento a India Catalina, the impressive monument that commemorates the legendary interpreter of Pedro de Heredia. It is a massive bronze statue, standing three meters and forty centimetres tall, depicting a proud indigenous young woman.

The origin of this monument lies with the film festival, and not the other way around

Monumento a India Catalina

Palenquera

But that hasn’t always been the case. The origin of this monument lies with the film festival, and not the other way around. In 1961, it was concluded that the film festival should also award an Academy Award, just like its great American counterpart. What the Oscar was for Hollywood, India Catalina would be for Cartagena. A less than talented sculptor was commissioned to create it, and the result failed to inspire many. It was a chubby and faceless statuette, with slumped shoulders.

Because what should not happen in a sweltering, busy city like Cartagena happens anyway

 

Years later, in 1974, the idea matured to dedicate a proper monument to India Catalina. This time, Muriό Eladio Gil was approached. This sculptor did not want to base his work on the conventional statuette. Instead, he preferred to use the fifteen-year-old indigenous girl Judith Arrieta as a model. Thus, the statue we see now was created. The film festival hurried to adjust their statuettes as well.

We find out that we are just in time for lunch. Because what should not happen in a sweltering, busy city like Cartagena happens anyway. Just before two o’clock, a crucial water pipe breaks somewhere in the city. Part of the city centre is left without water. The consequences are felt everywhere, but especially in the restaurants, with desperation in the kitchens and horror in the restrooms. Here and there, A4 notices appear on doors and windows – Closed due to force majeure. Only hotels with their own water tanks can still provide basic services.

It has been a rollercoaster of unexpected impressions and emotions in a country that is gradually managing to shed its overly criminal stigma

 

Seven o'clock. We slowly ascend above Cartagena towards Europe. A strong tailwind will shorten our travel time, the pilot announces, but it may also cause turbulence. And that is precisely a good description of our experience over the past two weeks – turbulent. It has been a rollercoaster of unexpected impressions and emotions in a country that is gradually managing to shed its overly criminal stigma. But it is above all the people who can take credit for this, and who deserve our lasting admiration for their courage, their zest for life, their perseverance and their resilience.

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Jaak Palmans
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