Nederlandse versie

The Golden Man

Colombia | Anno 2024

 

Saturday, March 9 | Villavieja – Neiva – Bogotá

Sunday, March 10 | Bogotá

 

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Saturday, March 9 | Villavieja – Neiva – Bogotá

When the Spaniards set their sights on what we now call Colombia in 1536, they had only one goal in mind – getting their hands on as much gold as possible. Who knows, perhaps hidden deep in the mountains or rainforests lay that legendary city that had long been the subject of rumours. According to the myth, its streets and walls were covered in gold, and the most precious gemstones were there for the taking. All that remained was to discover this mysterious El Dorado.

The conquistadors never found El Dorado, but they did find plenty of gold. They quickly learned that gold and silver weren’t only found in geological formations but also in the tombs of kings and nobles. These rulers were often buried with enormous treasures of precious metals for their afterlife. Moreover, this was pure silver and gold – no need to dig it up.

Searching for gold in a royal tomb was thus considered a form of mining, a legitimate activity that no one could object to

Excavating burial grounds became a highly lucrative activity. The Spanish crown was eager to assist by legally equating burial fields with geological gold veins. Searching for gold in a royal tomb was thus considered a form of mining, a legitimate activity that no one could object to. Once the necessary paperwork was completed, the owner of the plot could get to work. Afterward, they only had to pay twenty percent in taxes to the Spanish king on their mining products.

It’s easy to imagine that this approach led to excessive looting. How many precious artefacts were lost forever this way is impossible to estimate. The fact that the Gold Museum in Bogotá has managed to collect 55 000 art treasures made of gold and other precious materials under these circumstances is an achievement in itself. Soon, we’ll get to explore it in detail. The Botero Museum is also on our agenda, as well as Monserrate and many other places.

But for now, our minds are elsewhere. It’s four in the morning, and we’re just idly waiting in one of Villavieja’s charming colonial streets. Driver Ferney should have arrived with his bus some time ago, as we need to catch an early flight to Bogotá from Neiva, about forty kilometres away. But the one who doesn't show up is our dear Ferney.

Twenty minutes late, he finally shows up. What happened to him can only make us laugh. The hotel he stayed at is sealed off at night, and Ferney simply couldn’t get out. No matter what he tried, he couldn’t wake his host and have her open the door.

No worries, it’s not even half past five when we arrive at Aeropuerto Benito Salas in Neiva. Here, our paths diverge. Ferney will drive his bus straight to Medellín, where we’ll meet again on Tuesday evening. Our destination, however, is Bogotá, where we land at twenty past eight at the international airport, aptly named El Dorado.

For the first time, we’re not in one of Colombia’s large valleys, but right atop one of the mountain ranges – the Eastern Cordillera, to be exact. While we were just 450 meters above sea level in Neiva, we’re now at about 2 650 meters. This makes Bogotá the highest million-person city in the world.

Archaeologists mention the Muisca alongside the Aztecs, Maya, and Inca as the four great indigenous civilizations of Latin America

We owe this unique location to the Muisca people, who settled here around 1000 BCE. Originally, they lived along the Caribbean coast and the lower Río Magdalena. However, when the Caribs – a warlike tribe that eventually lent its name to an entire region – arrived, the Muisca were forced to flee. They retreated into the highlands and established themselves in this area, which they called Bacatá, meaning a place suitable for agriculture. The Spanish later corrupted this name into Bogotá.

It’s no coincidence that the Muisca chose this location. We are in a fertile part of the altiplano, the high plateau in the Andes mountains. The Spanish later called this area the Sabana de Bogotá, or the savanna of Bogotá. However, that term is a misnomer. A savanna is typically a dry, desert-like grassland where the temperature never drops below 18 °C (64 °F). In contrast, this Sabana experiences frosty nights and abundant rainfall, enough to sustain around fifteen permanent wetlands.

Despite the challenging climate, the Muisca built a thriving culture here. Archaeologists mention the Muisca alongside the Aztecs, Maya, and Inca as the four great indigenous civilizations of Latin America. That the Muisca remain relatively unknown is largely due to the fact that they left behind no stone architecture or written records. Additionally, their territory was relatively small, covering about 25 000 km² – a bit smaller than Belgium. By comparison, the Inca Empire spanned two million square kilometres, equivalent to the size of the United Kingdom, France, Germany, Spain, and Italy combined.

The Muisca were primarily farmers. The soil of the savanna was so fertile, the rainfall so plentiful, and the climate so stable that two harvests per year were possible. Where necessary, they dug irrigation channels to bring in water, used drainage to remove excess water, and built terraces to prevent erosion.

Although there was no gold to be found in Muisca territory – a disappointment for the Spanish – the Muisca were famous as master goldsmiths. They imported gold from other regions in exchange for the goods they produced, such as emeralds, copper, coal, and salt. Salt, in particular, was a prized commodity, giving the Muisca a strong trading position with neighbouring tribes.

In his travelogue, Quesada even mentions sleeping soldiers being surprised by a jaguar in their makeshift hammocks

Of the four great indigenous peoples, the Muisca were the last to experience the divide-and-conquer tactics of the Spanish. In 1537, Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada arrived on the scene. It took him eleven months to march from the Caribbean coast to the Sabana de Bogotá. During this time, his army shrank from 800 men to 180. They often had to hack their way through the suffocating jungle with machetes. Heavy rainfall, diseases, mosquitoes, crocodiles, and jaguars took their toll. In his travelogue, Quesada even mentions sleeping soldiers being surprised by a jaguar in their makeshift hammocks.

Despite the challenges, Quesada managed to subdue the Muisca with his diminished forces relatively easily, simply by exploiting the rivalry between two groups. Additionally, the Muisca, armed with sticks, lightweight spears, and poisoned arrows, stood little chance against the superior weaponry of the Spaniards.

On August 6, 1538, Quesada founded his city, only to be promptly recalled by Emperor Charles V. He had overstepped his bounds by failing to seek prior approval from the Spanish crown. Permission was eventually granted after he met all the requirements – appointing a mayor and city council, establishing a street plan, delineating building lots, and designating a site for the Plaza Mayor. Thus, on April 27, 1539, the city was formally re-established under the name Santa Fé de Bogotá.

We still benefit from that street plan today, our guide Gabriel explains as we travel through the city by bus. The layout consists of numbered calles and carreras that intersect at right angles, beautifully dividing the city centre into rectangular residential blocks. It resembles a chessboard, much like New York City. And just like Broadway in New York, Avenida Jiménez de Quesada in Bogotá is the proverbial exception to that rule. This wide, prestigious avenue follows the original path of the San Francisco River and meanders across the chessboard like a contrary snake.

Citizens of Classes 1 and 2 are not allowed to enter the neighbourhoods of Classes 5 and 6, unless they are working there

Getting lost is therefore impossible. However, that doesn’t mean you can just stroll around anywhere, Gabriel adds immediately. There are certain neighbourhoods you should avoid for safety reasons. Unsurprisingly, Bogotá's notorious socio-economic stratification is clearly visible in the cityscape. The poorer population of Class 1 is primarily found in the southern part of the city, while the wealthiest of Class 6 reside in the northern districts. Citizens of Classes 1 and 2 are not allowed to enter the neighbourhoods of Classes 5 and 6, unless they are working there, for instance as maids, kitchen helpers, handymen, gardeners, …

 

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Basílica del Señor Caído de Monserrate

A glance out the window reveals that Monserrate is bathed in sunlight. That's good news for us, as we'll be visiting this important pilgrimage site high above Bogotá shortly. It looks like we will enjoy a splendid view of the capital.

While the street plan may be excellent, Gabriel candidly admits that the traffic in Bogotá is terrible. Until recently, the city had a population of eight million people, but due to migration from poverty-stricken Venezuela, two million refugees have arrived, bringing the total to ten million. This has led to numerous challenges.

Due to migration from poverty-stricken Venezuela, two million refugees have arrived, bringing the total city population to ten million

Yet there is also a silver lining. And surprisingly, that is public transportation. Since the 1960s, the privatization of public transport gradually led to a complete chaos. Anyone with a minibus enthusiastically jumped into the transport sector. There was no coordination; everyone just muddled through. There were no fixed schedules; the only thing you could count on was that the minibuses somewhat followed a set route.

At the height of this wild growth, around 22 000 minibuses were operating in the capital. The oversupply led to fierce competition. Drivers did not receive a fixed salary; they were paid per passenger. It was all about taking as many passengers on board as possible. Bus stops were a relic of a bygone era. If someone on the sidewalk raised their arm, the driver would abruptly hit the brakes without a second thought. This anarchy even has a name – the Guerra del centavo, the Battle for the Penny.

The impetus to clean up this Augean stable was given by Mayor Enrique Peñalosa Londoño. This led to the TransMilenio, an efficient bus transport system that was launched in December 2000. Since then, this widely acclaimed system – how could it be otherwise – has lost much of its lustre. In 2016, a survey showed that 86 % of users were dissatisfied. Safety and poor service were sensitive issues, but especially the overcrowding proved intolerable. An average of eight passengers per square meter was considered too much even in Bogotá.

Without any notable traffic issues, we have now arrived at the base station of the funicular, the cable railway that will take us up to Cerro Monserrate. As for the weather conditions, our optimism from earlier seems somewhat premature. It is now raining, and a glance upwards shows that the Monserrate monastery is completely surrounded by clouds.

From beneath the cloud cover, the typical sounds of a busy city waft up the mountainside, but we see nothing of the city itself

The funicular takes exactly three hundred seconds to bridge the height difference of five hundred meters – from 2 650 m to 3 152 m. Through the fog, we try to form an image of the surroundings we have arrived in. From beneath the cloud cover, the typical sounds of a busy city waft up the mountainside – rumbling engines, nervous horns, vehicles braking abruptly – but we see nothing of the city itself.

This site derives its name from Montserrat, the iconic rock formation with the Benedictine monastery located about fifty kilometres from Barcelona, Spain. However, it was not the Spaniards who first built a sanctuary in this place; it was the Muisca. And they had a special reason for doing so. For them, Monserrate – or Grandmother's Foot, as they called the mountain – was a sacred mountain, as the sun rose directly above this mountain every year during the summer solstice on June 21, viewed from the location where the Simón Bolívar square is situated today.

Even after the Spanish colonization, the Muisca continued to trek into the mountains to worship their gods. Despite their zeal for conversion, the Spaniards were not really motivated to put an end to this practice. Perhaps the significant height difference had something to do with it. In any case, it would take another century before the first Christian buildings appeared atop the mountain. Initially, these were merely hermitages. It was only later, around 1640, that a chapel and a monastery dedicated to Santa María de la Cruz de Monserrate were added. Because originally, it was La Moreneta, the black Madonna from the Spanish Montserrat, who was worshiped here.

Devout pilgrims make the ascent on foot via a path with an average incline of 25 %. Reportedly, some even do it on their knees

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A bit breathless from the altitude, we begin the journey along the Via Crucis in the drizzly rain

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Via Crucis (Stations of the Cross)

A bit breathless from the altitude, we begin the journey along the Via Crucis, the Stations of the Cross featuring the 14 stations that represent the Passion of Jesus, in the drizzly rain. Notice the very classical, figurative design of the statues, emphasizes Gabriel. The contrast with what we will see the day after tomorrow in Zipaquirá could not be greater, he adds.

Literally every part of this brugmansia sanguinea is poisonous

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Borrachero (brugmansia sanguinea)

Like a green wall, lush vegetation rises on either side of the path. There are relatively few flowers, except for a few beautiful red-yellow flowers. Hanging like colourful funnels from the branches of a tree, they are tempting for anyone who loves flowers. Gabriel calls these flowers borrachero's due to their ability to intoxicate people. Although a drunkard's balance problems are nothing compared to everything this plant can do to you – hallucinations, heart arrhythmias, paralysis, death... to name a few. Literally every part of this brugmansia sanguinea is poisonous.

 

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Basílica del Señor Caído de Monserrate

Thus we reach the sanctuary of the Señor Caído de Monserrate, the Fallen Lord of Monserrate. Despite the tourist crowds, many believers are here praying. It is no longer La Moreneta that is at the centre here, but El Señor Caído. After Pedro de Lugo Albarracín created his striking image of Jesus falling for the third time in 1657 – a wooden sculpture supplemented with elements of lead and silver – popular devotion quickly turned to this new icon.

Popular devotion quickly turned to the Señor Caído de Monserrate

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El Señor Caído

 

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La Moreneta

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El Señor Caído

La Moreneta had to settle for a side chapel, while El Señor Caído was given a central place above the altar. Since then, this sanctuary has been known as the Basílica del Señor de Monserrate.

 

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Votive plaques

Outside, the clouds still have a grip on Cerro Monserrate. However, they have revealed another mountain peak in the distance. We can clearly distinguish Cerro de Guadalupe, about two hundred meters higher than where we now stand, between the wisps of fog. The snow-white statue of Our Lady of Guadalupe is particularly striking, with its height of fifteen meters it even towers above the church building. It is likely quite crowded there as well, as the pilgrimage site is a popular attraction for both pilgrims and tourists.

 

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With its height of fifteen meters, the snow-white statue of Our Lady of Guadalupe even towers above the church building

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Santuario Virgen de Guadalupe

For the Muisca, this Cerro de Guadalupe – known as Grandfather's Foot – was a sacred place, not least because the sun rises exactly above this mountain every year during the winter solstice on December 21, as seen from the location of what is now Simón Bolívar Square. Furthermore, during the spring and autumn equinoxes in March and September, the sun rises precisely above the valley between the two mountain peaks at dawn. In short, with this mountain range, the Muisca had a monumental sundial, allowing them to read the time of year rather than the time of day.

 

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Just as we are about to depart downward, Bogotá gradually begins to emerge from the clouds

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Bogotá – Santa Fe with BD Bacatá at the rear right

And then something remarkable happens. Just as we are about to depart downward, Bogotá gradually begins to emerge from the clouds. First, the silhouettes of the skyscrapers at our feet appear, colourless and vague. As time passes, they take shape and colour, while the buildings of other neighbourhoods further away become visible. Eventually, we can see almost the entire city – an area of 1 700 km², slightly larger than Greater London.

In the Santa Fe district, the hyper-modern Bogotá Downtown Bacatá stands out, known simply as BD Bacatá. At 216 meters, this is the tallest building in Bogotá and even in Colombia – a height that Gabriel conveniently rounds up to 250 meters. Originally, it was supposed to be a sort of twin towers, he explains, as both towers were meant to be the same height. But the money for the second tower was stolen by the Spaniards, he sneers without blinking, leaving the second tower at half height.

Instead of taking the funicular, we return down with the teleférico, a cable car with two cabins that hang from a cable. We are aware that there is a third option for climbing Cerro Monserrate, but that is not to our liking. Devout pilgrims make the ascent on foot via a path with an average incline of 25 %. Reportedly, some even do it on their knees.

On foot, we continue our exploration of the city. We quickly come across the Quinta de Bolívar, the house where Simón Bolívar stayed when he was in Bogotá. However, this did not happen very often, as Bolívar was often away, busy fighting the Spaniards in one South American country or another. Ultimately, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Venezuela, and Bolivia owe their independence to him.

When travelling through the northwest of South America, you can’t escape Simόn Bolívar’s omnipresence

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Santa Fe

 

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Simόn Bolívar

Sometimes you get the impression that El Libertador achieved all of this on his own. When travelling through the northwest of South America, you simply can’t escape his omnipresence. Several provinces, cities, and even an entire country are named after Bolívar. Countless streets bear his name, his statues are everywhere, in Bolivia they pay with bolivianos, and in Venezuela with bolívars.

Once Napoleon was defeated at Waterloo, they could once again turn their attention to their rebellious colonies

Yet, Bolívar didn't appear on the scene until 1812. His arrival was immediately successful, as he won one battle after another against the Spanish. However, the Spanish crown regrouped. Once Napoleon was defeated at Waterloo, they could once again turn their attention to their rebellious colonies. Things went smoothly for them, as by 1817 the Reconquista was complete, and Bolívar had fled to Jamaica.

But he didn't stop there. Initially, his attempts to liberate his homeland, Venezuela, failed, but in Colombia, he began to string together victories. The Battle of Boyacá on August 7, 1819, became the Spaniards' own Waterloo. Simón Bolívar became president of the independent Republic of Gran Colombia, which brought the present-day countries of Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador, and Panama under a single authority.

The Battle of Boyacá on August 7, 1819, became the Spaniards' own Waterloo

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Simόn Bolívar Square

Still, Bolívar was not satisfied. Peru and part of Bolivia still needed to be liberated. The newly minted president was more often found on the battlefield than in his residence. During his absences, his companion, General and Vice President Francisco de Paula Santander, took advantage and effectively assumed the presidency. This led to a major conflict, to the point where Santander was accused in 1828 of plotting to assassinate Bolívar. The punishment was death, but Bolívar commuted the sentence to lifelong exile.

However, this marked the beginning of the end for Bolívar. He could no longer control the tumultuous country, and both Ecuador and Venezuela seceded. In 1830, Bolívar resigned as president, and just a few months later, he died in solitude from tuberculosis.

As we descend further into the city, passing through the buildings of the Universidad de los Andes, Gabriel explains that this private university is the most expensive in Colombia. In terms of tuition, it rivals the American Harvard University. However, when it comes to quality, the Universidad Nacional de Colombia leads the way in this country – a public university that, he adds confidently, is still free.

 

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Cheerful faces of diverse colours are lovingly and skilfully depicted in vibrant hues

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Beautiful murals adorn the wall along Calle 18a. Cheerful faces of diverse colours are lovingly and skilfully depicted in vibrant hues. But as the narrow street opens onto a small square at the broad Avenida Jiménez, the mood of the graffiti becomes darker. Aggressive spray-painting defaces every building in sight. Bogotá seems to be gripped by a wave of anger and frustration that can no longer be contained.

Even the pedestal of the statue in the square has not been spared, covered in slogans and symbols of various movements. The statue itself is nearly unrecognizable, draped in cloths and banners, with the glossy black metal now marred by purple stains. Yet, this statue represents Policarpa Salavarrieta, also known as La Pola, a patriotic figure who is widely respected. During the Reconquista, she infiltrated Spanish royalist circles under the guise of a seamstress, passing the valuable information she gathered to the rebels. Eventually, she was caught and executed as a spy at just 22 years old.

The position of women in Colombia still leaves much to be desired, with over 90 % of violence against women going unpunished

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La Pola (Policarpa Salavarrieta)

The fact that Policarpa's statue has been defaced with slogans, cloths, and banners is linked to yesterday's International Women's Day, Gabriel explains. By tying a cloth over La Pola's mouth, the protesters are symbolizing that women in this country are being silenced. The position of women in Colombia still leaves much to be desired, with over 90 % of violence against women going unpunished.

Since the redevelopment of Avenida Jiménez – another project by Mayor Peñalosa – the area has become relatively pleasant for walking. Several traffic lanes have been replaced with pedestrian zones, and a small canal now flows gently in steps down the centre, a reminder that the San Francisco River once ran here. Endemic trees, including wax palms, offer a bit of cool shade.

What happened to conquistador Belalcázar in Popayán also happened to conquistador Quesada six months later in Bogotá

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The pedestal without Quesada

 

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Avenida Jiménez renamed Avenida Misak?

What happened to conquistador Belalcázar in Popayán also happened to conquistador Quesada six months later in Bogotá. On the early morning of May 7, 2021, a group of Misak people gathered at the Plazoleta del Rosario to destroy the statue of the hated conquistador. He was labelled a mass murderer, a torturer, a thief, and a rapist. The result is a pompous pedestal with only a few rusty bolts sticking out. Part of the plan was to rename the prestigious Avenida Jiménez to Avenida Misak. It’s unclear how much of that has come to fruition, though at least one street sign still bears evidence of the intention.

Lunch promises to be something special, as Gabriel hinted this morning. At Casa Taller de Cocina, we are served ajiaco, reportedly Bogotá’s most typical dish. It turns out to be a hearty soup with three types of potatoes, a generous portion of chicken, a piece of corn on the cob, and most notably, the herb guasca, which is always mentioned in connection with ajiaco and has a slight artichoke flavour. You get a portion of capers and some cream to add as you like, along with a bowl of rice and half an avocado as a side dish.

The best and largest in the world. Gabriel doesn't hesitate to describe the Museo del Oro in these terms

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Diadem (Yotoco)

 

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Diadem (Yotoco)

The best and largest in the world. Gabriel doesn't hesitate to describe the Museo del Oro in these terms, at least when it comes to its gold collection. Despite the pillaging by the Spanish, the museum has managed to amass 55 000 treasures crafted from gold and other precious materials.

Curious and fascinated, we step into this temple of goldsmithing. Yet, it's not just gold that gleams here. Other metals like silver, platinum, and copper were also used, and there are numerous artefacts made from wood, ceramics, and stone. Particularly intriguing are the so-called whistling vessels made of ceramic. You can pour water into them, and as it flows from one chamber to another, it creates the whistling sound of the bird depicted by the ceramic vessel. You can’t help but wonder, how did they do it?

In Colombia gold is found in relatively large nuggets – true gold veins, rather than alluvial gold

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Gold played such a significant role in Colombia's history primarily because the precious metal was found in relatively large nuggets here. True gold veins, rather than alluvial gold, which appears as tiny particles carried by rivers and painstakingly has to be sifted from the sediment by gold seekers.

Gold could be worked in various ways – hammering, folding, assembling – but the most stunning results were achieved using the lost-wax casting technique. First, you would create an exact model of the desired object in wax. Then, a thick layer of soft clay would be carefully applied around it, with one or more small openings made. The whole piece was heated so that the clay hardened into a mould while the wax evaporated through the openings. Once liquid gold was poured into the mould through those small holes and allowed to solidify, the desired artwork would theoretically emerge. In practice, the process was, of course, much more intricate.

As early as 500 BCE, indigenous people had mastered the technique of melting gold at 1063 °C (1945 °F)

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Liquid gold requires melting, which happens at a temperature of 1 063 °C (1945 °F). That's quite high, but archaeological findings have shown that indigenous people had mastered the technique of gold melting as early as 500 BCE. They filled ceramic ovens with coal and used blowpipes to fan the flames until they reached the necessary temperature.

The conquistadors systematically killed all the indigenous goldsmiths. The reasoning behind this brutal strategy was both simple and horrifying

In short, when the gold-hungry Spaniards came on the scene, gold-working here was at its peak. The conquistadors, however, quickly put an end to it by systematically killing all the indigenous goldsmiths. The reasoning behind this brutal strategy was both simple and horrifying: if the indigenous people could no longer craft with gold due to the lack of skilled artisans, they wouldn’t resist when the Spaniards seized the gold for themselves.

 

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Pendant (Darién)

 

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Poporo (stick and gourd, Classical Period)

On the second floor, the Museo del Oro showcases artefacts by culture. While we are already familiar with the Muisca and the people of San Agustín, other cultures now take the spotlight. The Quimbaya, Zenú, Tairona, and Tolima, to name just a few. What we usually lump together without knowing better turns out to be an intriguing patchwork of peoples and cultures, each with their own insights and way of life. Gold artefacts, given their value, offer perhaps the clearest insight into what truly mattered to these societies and their artists.

For these cultures, the universe was divided into the upper and lower worlds, each with opposing but complementary traits – light versus darkness, male versus female, rain versus drought, wild versus domesticated. The middle world, where humans lived, was a blend of these two realms.

Frogs acted as messengers to the underworld, while birds could carry messages to the gods

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Frog (Quimbaya)

 

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Human bat (Tairona)

In the Quimbaya culture, you'll find many representations of frogs and birds, as these were considered sacred animals. Frogs acted as messengers to the underworld, while birds could carry messages to the gods. In contrast, the Tairona culture centred around the bat, as this creature combined both functions. Bats inhabit caves – representing the underworld – but can effortlessly fly to the upper world.

The beautiful winged fish symbolizes the mythical union of two worlds – water and air

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Facial ornament in the shape of a jaguar (Yotoco)

 

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Winged fish (San Agustín)

The jaguar, on the other hand, symbolizes masculine strength, skill, and the wisdom of the hunter and warrior. Representations of fish are rather rare, with the beautiful winged fish from the San Agustín culture being a notable exception, symbolizing the mythical union of two worlds: water and air.

The craftsmanship of the Quimbaya goldsmiths is abundantly evident from the beautiful lime holder in the shape of a gourd

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Lime holder in the shape of a gourd (Quimbaya)

 

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Lime holder in the shape of a female chief (Quimbaya)

The finest goldsmiths were found among the Quimbaya, who had an exceptional ability to represent human anatomy. Their meticulous polishing techniques gave their artworks an unparalleled lustre. This craftsmanship is abundantly evident from the beautiful lime holder in the shape of a gourd. Made of a mix of gold and copper, it is one of the museum's top pieces. Such calabash holders were part of a poporo, the toolkit necessary for preparing coca for consumption.

Another masterpiece of the Quimbaya is the lime holder in the shape of a female chief. As a container, the artwork is almost unrecognizable to us, we only see a lavishly dressed figure who assumes a solemn pose. She is probably performing a ritual, three plates hang from her hands and her nose in a bizarre way. The artwork is made of tumbaga, a widely used alloy of gold and copper with a lower melting point, which made it easier to work.

A magnificent breastplate of the Muisca features both human and animal traits

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Ceramic figure on a bench (Tairona)

 

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Breastplate with human and animal traits (Muisca)

In contrast, the Tairona favoured natural stone and ceramics. We observe a bizarre ceramic figure sitting on a bench, which in indigenous art signifies a thinker – an important figure. However, the statue is damaged, the chest and back are missing, likely the result of Spanish hopes of finding gold inside.

For filigree work, the Zenú are renowned

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Filigree work in earrings (Zenú)

 

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Human votive figurines (Muisca)

For filigree work, the Zenú are renowned, as evidenced by their half-moon gold earrings.

The Muisca are also well represented, with beautiful votive figurines shaped like human figures. These figures, possibly warriors or hunters, seem to be engaged in consuming mind-altering plants, enabling them to connect with the gods.

A magnificent breastplate features both human and animal traits. A perplexing artwork it is, in which the depicted animals are hardly recognizable. The underlying message is that those who adorn themselves with attributes of certain animals will embody the characteristics of those creatures.

It’s a masterpiece of goldsmithing, made of tumbaga, but also an unmistakable reference to the creation myth of the Muisca

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Breast plate with reference to the creation myth (Muisca)

The most attention, however, goes to the breastplate that was found in Lake Guatavitá. This masterpiece of goldsmithing, made of tumbaga, is not only a stunning example of craftsmanship but also an unmistakable reference to the creation myth of the Muisca. The six bird heads at the top, each with a golden plate in their beaks, symbolize the two great black birds that once flew over this area. With a beam of light from their beaks, they illuminated the world and made it habitable. At the very top, eight priests sit and watch as the world is created.

A magnificent breastplate from the Tolima appears to be a human figure with spread arms and legs, but it’s not

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Breastplate in the shape of a feline (Tolima)

A very atypical example is a magnificent breastplate from the Tolima. It appears to be a human figure with spread arms and legs, but it’s not. The eyes, nose, and earlobes of the geometric figure are indeed human, but the body is that of a feline. A jaguar, in fact. This is evident from the pattern of lines and spots on the body. The impeccable symmetry and the excellent craftsmanship make it an object that transcends time. Literally, even. Because if you drink a Club Colombia beer nowadays, you can recognize a stylized version of this artwork on the bottle.

El Dorado is not a city or kingdom at all, El Dorado is the Golden Man

Meanwhile, Gabriel hasn’t failed to continuously pique our curiosity and build the suspense as our visit to the Museo del Oro progresses. Because, as he teasingly puts it, the ultimate masterpiece is still to come. Together with the most precious pieces in the collection, it is located on the third floor in a huge vault, specifically in what is called the Offering Room here.

Because it’s all about the offering of El Dorado. Over time, El Dorado has grown into a mythical concept, comparable to the Holy Grail, Shangri-La, or Atlantis. It was said to be a city or kingdom, deeply hidden in the South American jungle, where gold was plentiful. Countless adventurers have exhausted themselves trying to find that place. But El Dorado is not a city or kingdom at all, according to Gabriel – El Dorado is the Golden Man.

And this had everything to do with the appointment of a new chieftain or zipa among the Muisca. Many years of preparation preceded this. The candidate first had to undergo three difficult trials. Firstly, for nine years, he was not allowed to see the sun, for example, by living in a cave or only going out at night. Then for another nine years, he was not allowed to speak. Finally – and according to Gabriel, this was the most difficult of the three trials – he had to resist the attempts at seduction by all the women in the tribe.

In this way, the zipa essentially became a Sun King. It’s a pity Louis XIV didn’t think of that

If the candidate passed all three trials, he could prepare for the inauguration ritual. This took place at Lake Guatavita, a deep, circular lake that was sacred to the Muisca. Together with a handful of important figures like shamans, nobles, and warriors, the zipa-to-be sailed out onto the lake on a reed raft. Each of them had first smeared themselves with a sticky mixture of honey and then covered it with gold dust. In this way, they each looked like a Man of Gold.

After performing a few rituals on the raft, they jumped into the water, causing the gold dust to loosen and drift down to the bottom of the lake. They then threw a few precious gold objects into the lake as offerings. With that, the ritual was complete. From then on, the candidate could call himself zipa.

Letting gold dust settle into a lake and casting golden objects into the water was therefore no more or less than an act of fertilization

The Spaniards must have witnessed this scene with frustration. They drew two conclusions from it. First, a people who treated gold so lavishly must surely have enormous reserves of it. So, it was worth continuing the search. Second, they attempted to drain the lake. Of course, this was in vain.

The Muisca, of course, saw things very differently. By covering himself in gold, the future chief appropriated the creative power of the sun. In this way, he embodied the power of this deity from the upper world on earth. He essentially became a Sun King. It’s a wonder Louis XIV didn’t think of that.

Moreover, the Muisca regarded gold as the fertilizing energy of the sun, while they saw the sacred lakes as the wombs of the earth. Letting gold dust settle into a lake and casting golden objects into the water was therefore no more or less than an act of fertilization. In this way, the future zipa made a pact with nature, ensuring that life could continue to renew itself.

The fabulously beautiful gold artefact depicted the raft used during the inauguration ceremony of a zipa among the Muisca

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Balsa dorada – Golden raft (Muisca)

The fact that we know about this ritual is primarily thanks to Spanish chroniclers. But in 1969, farmers discovered a pottery jar in a cave in Pasca, which contained, among other things, a fabulously beautiful gold artefact. It depicted the raft used during the inauguration ceremony of a zipa among the Muisca. The artwork was nearly melted down and sold immediately, but the local priest prevented this from happening.

Luckily, because this balsa dorada, this golden raft, is unique in the world. The only comparable piece of art was lost in 1856 during transport from Colombia to the Berlin museums. Thanks to this, we can still form a picture of how things looked back then.

The ceremony revolves entirely around him, and he is richly adorned with an imposing headdress, a nose ring, and earrings

The golden raft is about ten by twenty centimetres in size and made of tumbaga, in this case an alloy of 65 percent gold, 16 percent silver, and 19 percent copper. The artwork dates from the period between 1200 and 1400 CE. At the centre, the zipa is seated, leaning back on a high ceremonial chair. The ceremony revolves entirely around him, and he is richly adorned with an imposing headdress, a nose ring, and earrings. Around him stand ten smaller figures. Especially the foursome at the front are, just like their leader, lavishly decorated

This masterpiece of goldsmithing is both touching and overwhelming. The goldsmiths who created this little jewel had mastered the lost-wax casting technique to perfection. You couldn't ask for a better culmination to a museum visit.

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Sunday, March 10 | Bogotá

 

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Bogotá – City map

Sunday morning. Bogotá wakes up a bit more slowly than on other days. Cyclists and joggers are already active, able to go about their routines almost undisturbed, as some major streets in the city centre have been closed to traffic. Sometimes, even pedestrians need to be cautious as they zoom by.

 

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Here and there, stalls are being set up in the hope of selling some items or street food. In Parque Santander, fitness enthusiasts are hard at work to the rhythm of upbeat music. A few homeless people in the doorways ignore the early bustle and continue sleeping – or at least pretend to.

 

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These seem like ordinary Sunday morning scenes, but there’s something more. The setting in which this takes place looks a bit grim. Even the bogotanos, who are used to a lot, find it unsettling. So much graffiti on the facades is unprecedented, as Gabriel will soon confirm. Even beautiful historical buildings haven’t been spared. Only the facades of the Attorney General's offices remain clean – not because vandals spared the building, but because yesterday evening, a group of workers spent hours grinding it clean with angle grinders.

 

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It’s undeniable – there’s a great deal of social unrest in this city

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A lot of the graffiti is related to International Women’s Day. The acronym 8M refers to March 8 and is everywhere. Sometimes the symbol is also drawn, but with donkey ears added on top. Anyhow, the numbers don’t lie. In 2022, an average of 11 women were murdered each week in Colombia. Femicide has been a punishable crime since 2012, but it’s far from eradicated. The slogan Palestine Libre also appears frequently. It’s undeniable – there’s a great deal of social unrest in this city.

 

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Iglesia de San Francisco

Our city walk first takes us to the nearby Iglesia de San Francisco, a Franciscan church. It was built around 1560, making it the oldest church in Bogotá. The impressive altarpiece is the finest to be found in the city. Once again, we recognize the image of Señor Caído, the Fallen Lord.

Surprising is the way Jesus is depicted – as a man with hair reaching down to his waist

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Iglesia de San Francisco

 

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El Señor de la Agonía

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La Virgen del Carmen

 

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Iglesia de San Francisco with Montserrate

But the most surprising is the image they call El Señor de la Agonía, the Lord of Agony, or Jesus slowly dying on the cross. It’s surprising, not so much because of the theme, but because of the way Jesus is depicted – as a man with hair reaching down to his waist.

Some have come by bike and have neatly parked it against one of the pillars to prevent theft

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Iglesia de San Francisco

A relatively large number of believers are sitting and praying, often alone. Some have come by bike and have neatly parked it against one of the pillars to prevent theft. A man has brought his dog. It sits quietly by its owner's side, waiting until he finishes praying.

A plaque on the corner of Carrera Séptima and Avenida Jiménez commemorates one of the most dramatic events in 20th-century Colombia. It was here, on April 9, 1948, that Jorge Eliécer Gaitán was shot. Coincidentally, he was on his way to lunch with a certain Fidel Castro.

Those were turbulent times. Colombia was gripped by intense polarization between conservatives and liberals. So intense that wearing a red or blue shirt could be enough to be seen as a conservative or liberal and get beaten up on the street.

The entire neighbourhood was destroyed, except for the church we just visited, which was left untouched

As a liberal politician, Gaitán was extremely popular with the common people, though some called him demagogic and populist. As a presidential candidate, he seemed to be heading toward victory. Caudillo del Pueblo, Leader of the People, is what they call him on the plaque.

His violent death was the spark that ignited the powder keg. An unprecedented wave of popular anger erupted. The entire neighbourhood was destroyed, according to Gabriel, except for the church we just visited, which was left untouched. Streetcars were overturned and set on fire – an ironic twist of fate, as it was Gaitán who, as mayor in the 1930s, had expanded the tram network. Today, the tram tracks on Carrera 7 still lie unused. The worst uprising Colombia had ever experienced even earned a name – El Bogotazo.

 

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Kogi sell traditional mochilas

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At Simón Bolívar Square, the heart of the old city, Sunday comes to life in a vibrant way. Amidst the countless stalls, there is a lively, though still modest, bustle. Everywhere you can find food and drinks – tropical fruits, fruit juices, fried snacks, chestnuts, corn, and more.

This square was once sacred ground for the Muisca people, as it was the only place where you could observe the annual solstices and equinoxes above the mountains with sufficient accuracy. The Spanish colonizers quickly put an end to that and installed a permanent market here. Nowadays, it’s a temporary market that only takes place on Saturdays and Sundays. Events are regularly organized on the square.

On July 20, 1810, El Grito de Independencia, the Cry for Independence, was heard here

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Casa del Florero (Independence Museum)

One of the houses on this square, the Casa del Florero, is now known as the Independence Museum. Because after yet another row between Spaniards and Creoles, El Grito de Independencia, the Cry for Independence, was heard here on July 20, 1810.

Creoles were excluded from governance. And mestizos, mulattos, or indigenous people didn’t count at all

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Mochillas

There had been unrest brewing for some time in New Granada, the Viceroyalty to which modern-day Colombia belonged. The Creoles were particularly frustrated that only true Spaniards, meaning people born in Spain, were allowed to govern the country. People of Spanish descent born in Colombia – the Creoles – were excluded from governance. And mestizos, mulattos, or indigenous people didn’t count at all.

 

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So, when some Creoles went to a Spanish official that day to ask for permission to borrow a vase to decorate an event, it was a pure act of provocation. A Spanish official lending an object for Creole activities was simply unthinkable. According to Gabriel, there was even a tug-of-war over the vase, which resulted in it breaking. However, not all sources confirm this. There's also uncertainty about whether this famous Florero de Llorente was even a beautiful vase. But it has since become a national monument.

In short, it was a storm in a teacup, but it was enough to trigger a series of events, such as the very first meeting of a national government in Bogotá. Just like in Brussels in 1830, when a performance of The Mute Girl of Portici was enough to ignite anti-Dutch street riots that eventually led to Belgian independence.

Are these buildings or their occupants in mourning? Not at all; these cloths are meant to protect the facades from... paint, eggs, and tomatoes

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Simόn Bolívar Square – Cathedral

In the centre of the square stands, how could it be otherwise, a statue of Simón Bolívar. On one side, we see the cathedral, the Sagrario Chapel, and the Episcopal Palace lined up neatly next to each other, all symbols of ecclesiastical authority, according to Gabriel. On another side is the Congress building, where the House of Representatives and the Senate represent the legislative authority. The enormous French-style building on the third side is the City Hall of Bogotá – representing administrative authority.

 

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Simόn Bolívar Square – Palacio Liévano or City Hall

But it’s the fourth side that stands out. Gabriel describes the architecture of this building as brutal. The contrast with the historical character of the other buildings is indeed striking. It looks as if some concrete bunkers have been erected, forming the Palace of Justice.

You could certainly call the history of this building turbulent. When El Bogotazo erupted in 1948, the Palace of Justice took heavy damage. It had to be completely rebuilt. In 1985, the M-19 group found it necessary to storm the building and take three hundred hostages. The Colombian army could not let that go unanswered. They brought in tanks and opened fire on the building without hesitation. The toll was 115 dead, including twelve judges from the Supreme Court. Once again, the building had to be completely rebuilt.

 

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TransMilenio

Peaceful developments seem to be the exception rather than the rule in Colombia. This is also evident from the enormous black cloths that conceal the facades of the cathedral and the Congress building. Are these buildings or their occupants in mourning? Not at all; these cloths are meant to protect the facades from... paint, eggs, and tomatoes. There always seems to be something to protest against, says Gabriel. And where there is protest, all sorts of projectiles often fly through the air.

Bolívar managed to escape through this window. According to some sources, he still had soap suds on his body

Behind the Congress building lies the Casa de Nariño, the presidential palace. It is also a favoured target for anyone who harbours ill feelings toward the government, whether temporarily or not. So here, they go a step further. All the streets around the palace are simply closed to traffic. We can barely see the building in the distance.

 

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La Candelaria

 

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Another location with an air of spectacle is the Palacio de San Carlos. A plaque under one of the windows reminds us of the events that took place here. However, opinions differ on what exactly transpired on the night of September 25, 1828. The fact is that about twenty-five soldiers armed to the teeth stormed the presidential palace with one goal in mind – to assassinate Simón Bolívar. According to some sources, the president was sharing a bed with his mistress, Manuela Sáenz, at the time. According to others, he was having a bath. Whatever the case may be, Manuela managed to deceive the conspirators long enough for Bolívar to escape through this window. According to some sources, he still had soap suds on his body. We try to imagine it.

The events are recorded as the Conspiración Septembrina, the September Conspiracy. Manuela earned the nickname Libertadora del Libertador, Liberator of the Liberator. But we still do not know who was behind the assassination attempt. Many, including Gabriel, believe it was Vice President Santander, Bolívar's right-hand man, who was himself scheming for the presidency.

White and brown stone layers alternate in a fixed striped pattern. Not coincidentally, these are the colours of the Carmelites

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Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen

 

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An unusual outlier is the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen. Not only does its unique style stand out – Florentine Gothic with Byzantine and Arabic accents – but also the colours of the outer walls. White and brown stone layers alternate in a fixed striped pattern. Not coincidentally, these are the colours of the Carmelites, as this church is dedicated to the Holy Virgin Mary of Mount Carmel. It is a tribute to the Carmelites, who were expelled from here in 1863. Today, the church is under the management of the Salesians, along with the adjacent school buildings.

 

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La Candelaria

 

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Zebra crossing becomes llama crossing

It has been cloudy all morning, but now the sun is breaking through from time to time. Gradually, we make our way to the museum complex, a second highlight of our city visit. Several museums are located here, including the Casa de Moneda, the Mint Museum. However, we are primarily interested in the Botero Museum.

Few styles are as recognizable as that of the recently deceased painter and sculptor Fernando Botero. Whether he works with stone, copper, bronze, marble, charcoal, or oil on canvas, you immediately know whose work it is. It’s those typical, larger-than-life figures, with their corpulent bodies and voluptuous curves that sometimes appear almost obscene, which are so characteristic of his style.

Disproportionate proportions are another hallmark of Botero. You look at a bowl of fruit with a knife beside it that is far too small to cut those fruits. Or you see faces where the nose, mouth, and eyes are represented very sparingly.

Few styles are as recognizable as that of the recently deceased painter and sculptor Fernando Botero

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Monalisa

 

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Dancing couple (Pareja bailando)

Take, for example, Monalisa, Botero’s interpretation of Leonardo da Vinci’s La Gioconda. Everything refers back to the original – the choice of colours, the body posture, the eyes looking directly at us, the mysterious mouth. But the head is as large as the torso, while the nose and mouth are disproportionately small. In the background, we can even see some volcanoes, one of which is active – a clear reference to Botero’s homeland.

Pareja bailando, the Dancing Couple, shows us two voluptuous figures gracefully moving across the dance floor. At least that’s what is suggested by the flowing hair and the woman’s raised leg. But the man stares at us emotionlessly; he doesn’t even seem capable of a smile. This is also typical of Botero – you will look in vain for a smile in his paintings.

However, this Una familia is not innocent. Is there infidelity and sin within this seemingly virtuous family?

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A Family (Una familia)

 

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In the park (En el parque )

A mother sits with her daughter on her lap, while the father stands protectively behind his family, holding the son’s hand. It looks like a very traditional portrait, reminiscent of those from the Renaissance. However, this Una familia is not innocent. A red snake threatens from the tree, while an apple with a bite taken out of it lies on the ground. Is there infidelity and sin within this seemingly virtuous family?

This is also typical of Botero – you will look in vain for a smile in his paintings

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Captain (Capitán)

 

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Guerrilla de Eliseo Velásquez

In Capitán, a police captain from Medellín is portrayed. But his appearance is not that of a simple captain; rather, he resembles a Minister of War. Abuse of power and corruption – that is what Botero aims to criticize with this figure.

And what about Guerrilla de Eliseo Velásquez? These guerrillas, resting in the shade of some trees with their hammock, luggage, and hunting rifles, are not particularly intimidating. The canvas reminds us of the armed struggle of liberal farmers under the command of Eliseo Velásquez in the aftermath of Jorge Eliécer Gaitán’s assassination in 1948.

More explicit in his rejection of violence and civil war is Botero in Masacre de Mejor Esquina

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Massacre of Mejor Esquina (Masacre de Mejor Esquina)

 

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Car bomb (Carrobomba)

More explicit in his rejection of violence and civil war is Botero in Masacre de Mejor Esquina. We see men with guns and machetes entering a simple tavern. Unarmed civilians are celebrating Easter Sunday under the light of two bare bulbs. There was music, drinks, and dancing, but now bullets are raining down. Several bodies lie on the ground. This massacre took place on April 3, 1988, in Mejor Esquina, where twenty-seven civilians, including a ten-year-old child, did not survive the brutal violence of a paramilitary group.

Another long-standing source of fear and terror in Colombia during the 1980s and 1990s was the car bombs. Both drug cartels and guerrilla groups made good use of them, particularly in Bogotá, Cali, and Medellín. Carrobomba, Botero uses his technique of exaggerated volume not for people but for the vehicles that cause so much excessive damage.

 

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Mother Superior (Madre superiora)

 

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The study (El estudio)

During lunch, another Colombian classic is served – sancocho con pollo, a soup with chicken, corn, potatoes, and yuca, the local version of manioc. Meanwhile, the festival sounds of Voices de Mulieres flow in through the open windows. The festivities surrounding 8M, International Women’s Day, are still ongoing. There are continuous free performances by female artists, ranging from the intense hip hop colombiano of Diana Avella to the soothing música latina of Victoria Sur.

 

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La Candelaria is the older district that forms the historical core of Bogotá

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La Candelaria

 

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We now explore the more residential part of La Candelaria, the older district that forms the historical core of Bogotá, through its steep streets. The transition from Republican style to colonial style is evident in the streetscape. Houses with two stories and balconies give way to single-story homes. Gabriel warns us not to venture higher than Carrera 2 if we are alone, as it is not very safe there.

 

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Rosa

 

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Traditional mochilas

In her shop, Rosa sells traditional mochilas that she crafts herself from sheep’s wool. These typical shoulder bags can only be found in Colombia. Rosa’s mother was a Tairona from the coastal area in the north, while her father lived in the more desert-like region of Guajira. Rosa is therefore familiar with various cultures, which helps her customize her mochilas to meet the desires of her customers.

Originally, Bogotá was meant to be nothing more than a stopover on the road from Santa Marta on the Caribbean coast to Lima on the Pacific Coast

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La Candelaria, with Monserrate on the mountain

The Plaza del Chorro de Quevedo is likely the place where it all began. From this height, the zipa of the Muisca regularly came to observe the Sabana de Bogotá. It was also here that Quesada made his first attempt to establish Bogotá. The settlement then consisted of a chapel and twelve huts – not coincidentally the same number as the apostles. Three hundred years later, Francisco de Quevedo, a Spanish priest, purchased the plot and had a fountain installed.

The Plaza del Chorro de Quevedo is likely the place where it all began

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Fountain of Francisco de Quevedo (replica)

 

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Plaza del Chorro de Quevedo

Meanwhile, we know that the Spanish crown did not recognize the founding of Bogotá, and Quesada had to redo his homework. The official founding took place eight months later, not here, but down at the site where the Simón Bolívar Square is located today.

 

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The fact that Bogotá was founded in this spot is a bizarre twist of fate. Originally, this settlement was meant to be nothing more than a stopover. The Spaniards were determined to connect Santa Marta on the Caribbean coast overland with Lima on the Pacific Coast in order to avoid the transshipment of goods in Panama. However, it soon proved to be an overly ambitious undertaking. Three thousand seven hundred kilometres is not a distance that can be easily bridged.

 

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The square is very busy, especially since it’s Sunday. You can almost walk over people’s heads. In the centre still stands a fountain, but it is no longer Quevedo’s, as that was lost in 1896. The atmosphere around the fountain is lively and cheerful. The consumption of chicha may have something to do with this. This lightly alcoholic beer made from corn is brewed in almost every household here in an artisanal manner.

The atmosphere around the fountain is lively and cheerful. The consumption of chicha may have something to do with this

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For dinner, we settle in at Las Aguas Crepes & Waffles. They offer an extensive range of dishes based on fish, chicken, pork, or beef, remarkably all wrapped in a pancake. Moreover, the restaurant has a social mission. It exclusively employs single mothers and provides a day-care for the children while the mothers are at work.

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Jaak Palmans
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