We don't even know their names

Colombia | Anno 2024

 

Wednesday 6 March | San Agustín

Thursday 7 March | San Agustín – San José de Isnos – Magdalena Valley

Friday 8 March | San Agustín – Villavieja – Tatacoa Desert

 

 

Wednesday 6 March | San Agustín

It is a strange twist of fate. Of the people who left behind the largest collection of megalithic monuments in Colombia, we know almost nothing. More than a thousand years before the Aztecs and the Incas built their world-famous empires, there was an unknown people here, in the wider area of San Agustín, who combined a complex social structure with a highly developed spiritual life. This resulted in an unprecedented production of outstanding sculptures and funerary monuments.

More than a thousand years before the Aztecs and the Incas built their world-famous empires, there was an unknown people here

But that people had not developed a written language. They had actually completely disappeared from the face of the earth even before the Spaniards appeared in this region. How this came to be, we do not know. Moreover, the archaeological context of the sites has been thoroughly disturbed. The local population saw no issue in using the ancient statues to decorate their homes or even to prop up their roofs, while grave robbers had practically violated all the burial monuments. Some statues were even broken open by the Spaniards in their obsessive search for gold.

In short, archaeologists today have very few clues to learn more about this enigmatic civilization. We do not even know the name of this people. Therefore, this civilization is conveniently referred to as the San Agustín culture. Since 1995, it has been recognized as a World Heritage site by UNESCO.

It is a well-known fact that the first representatives of Homo sapiens reached the American continent via the Bering Strait. During the last Ice Age, that strait was dry and actually formed a land bridge between America and Asia. Gradually, the immigrants spread across the continent and eventually appeared in South America via the Isthmus of Panama. When exactly this happened is unknown. However, it is a fact that the oldest traces of human habitation in Colombia are about 12,500 years old.

What is also certain is that the earliest representatives of the San Agustín culture settled in this area no later than around 3,300 BCE. We must, however, put this into perspective, as they were hunter-gatherers who roamed this region at that time. They had come from the north via the Magdalena Valley. They did not have a permanent settlement; they moved around based on their food needs. There are no images or burial monuments from that time. However, stone axes, arrowheads, and even mortars and millstones have been found.

Not from the north, but from the Amazon region, a new people emerged that began to settle in this area

This changed around 1000 BCE. Not from the north, but from the Amazon region, a new people emerged that began to settle in this area. After all, it was good living here, at an altitude of 1,500 to 2,000 meters, with a year-round temperature hovering around 20 °C (68 °F), and an average of 1,500 mm of rain per year. In short, agriculture could be practiced here. They cultivated corn, beans, quinoa, cassava, and yams, but only for their own needs. The first modest burial monuments also appeared in the landscape.

It was not until around the year zero that the San Agustín culture truly began to take off. This glorious period would last for as long as a thousand years. Archaeologists refer to this as the Classical Period. It is primarily characterized by impressive burial monuments that were covered by an earthen mound. In total, about fifty have been recovered. Usually, one or more life-sized statues stood in front of the burial mound. These are carved from volcanic rock. Often, they are not merely human figures, but are intertwined with animal elements or present themes of an allegorical or religious nature – a symbolism of which we know little and can only guess at the meaning.

Yet it must have been a bizarre sight, at least when viewed through our eyes. For these people lived in simple, cylindrical huts. The walls consisted of poles between which branches or reeds were placed. Clay was smeared over that. The roof rose to a point at the top and was covered with straw. These primitive huts stand in stark contrast to the stone architecture of the graves. Apparently, life after death was considered more important than life on earth. This was the case in many pre-Columbian cultures.

You do not find these burial monuments in the valleys. Typical of the San Agustín culture is the fact that they erected their structures exclusively on hilltops. They first levelled these hills to create a sort of plateau on which they could build – as if the hill as a whole was a kind of temple. The earth that was excavated was used to construct an earthen wall between these hills, creating a path from one hill to another. This must have been an enormous task back then. And for us too, it will sometimes be sweating and panting to walk from one place to another, we realize.

In their report, they noted that they had found another Mexico

The fact that the burial monuments are high on these hills contributed to their existence remaining concealed for so long. When the first Spaniards appeared in 1537 under the leadership of Sebastián de Belalcázar, the people of San Agustín had already disappeared. Like us, these conquistadors had travelled from Popayán across the Central Cordillera to San Agustín. Even though it was only a brief expedition, they probably stumbled upon traces of the ancient civilization. In their report, they noted that they had found another Mexico. Understandably, this referred to a place comparable to what they had seen in Mexico.

But it was not until the German Konrad Preuss that systematic excavations took place in 1913. We owe him the first scientific analyses of this culture. The reason so many Colombian artefacts are currently found in German museums is also due to him.

Meanwhile, we have arrived at the Parque Arqueológico in San Agustín, the largest complex of pre-Columbian megalithic burial monuments and sculptures. Although this people was not really organized into villages at the time, you can consider this park the core area of their culture. It is estimated that between 4,000 and 8,000 people lived here during the Classical Period.

These are statues that were found here and there, for example, in the local villages where they were used as decorative stones for houses

Reuse of historical images (archive photo)

It is partly cloudy but sunny. Horacio, our local guide, is already waiting for us. In fact, it was not just one, but two Indian tribes that lived here somewhat independently from each other, he explains. The other group lived across the Río Magdalena, about 10 km away as the crow flies. We know very little about both groups. The good news is that some contemporary Indian tribes in the nearby Amazon region have been found to share similarities. Some aspects of the statues we will see seem to refer to rituals that are still performed today. This helps with interpretation.

 

Parque Arqueológico – Artificial earthen wall

Curiously, we walk into the forest along one of the earthen walls that were built back then. They call this part of the park Bosque de las Estatuas, the Forest of Statues. Thirty-five statues are arranged here, but they are no longer in their original positions, Horacio emphasizes. These are statues that were found here and there, for example, in the local villages where they were used as decorative stones for houses. Now, they stand along a path that winds through the forest, forming an open-air museum of mysterious figures, each lacking context.

 

Bosque de las Estatuas

However, some common elements immediately stand out. Almost certainly, these figures were part of burial rituals. They could represent the likeness of a deceased important chief or the warriors who were to guard his grave. Naturally, such statues had to convey power and authority. We can see this in their grim faces, with bulging almond-shaped eyes, flat noses, and fierce mouths with elongated teeth or crossed canines. The latter strongly resembles a jaguar, an animal that was revered at the time. Chiefs liked to associate themselves with it.

The grim faces, with bulging almond-shaped eyes, flat noses, and fierce mouths with elongated teeth or crossed canines were supposed to convey power and authority

 

But it is not only the physical power that is expressed in these statues; the spiritual authority is also highlighted. This is evident from the fact that the statues often exhibit characteristics of bats, alligators, or felines.

These are not elegant figures that are represented here. Generally, they are quite angular, with a straight torso, high square shoulders, and a head that is disproportionately large. Their arms are flat against their bodies, their elbows are bent, and their hands hold something.

 

And therein lies a piece of mystery. For what is the ‘something’ that these figures hold? Horacio usually suggests it is a poporo

 

And therein lies a piece of mystery. For what is the something that these figures hold? Horacio usually suggests it is a poporo, which is a type of gourd used to store lime powder. Together with the corresponding stick, this is what you need to chew coca leaves. You moisten the end of the stick and dip it into the lime powder. This allows you to bring the lime powder into your mouth while chewing coca leaves. Only then do the desired effects occur – including stimulating effects, increased endurance, and protection against altitude sickness. Chewing coca leaves without lime, as tourists usually do, is utterly pointless, Horacio states with a hint of amusement.

Chewing coca leaves without lime, as tourists usually do, is utterly pointless

For the indigenous people, chewing coca leaves was a sacred ritual – and it still is. It is therefore not surprising that mystical powers and social status were attributed to a poporo, and that a chief would want to be depicted with one.

 

Mother with child – Statue broken open by the Spanish

However, this reasoning is not always convincing. Sometimes it doesn't seem to be a poporo that the depicted person is holding, but rather a flute that he has just put to his mouth and is about to play. Or could it be some kind of animal that he has overpowered – a snake, for instance – as a symbol of his power?

Establishing a connection between the earthly world and the spirit world is the shaman's primary task

And why couldn't it be a shaman being represented here? After all, the poporo is part of his standard toolkit. Establishing a connection between the earthly world and the spirit world is the shaman's primary task. He can only achieve this when he is in a trance, for example, after chewing coca leaves. This interpretation could explain the swollen cheeks and bulging eyes of some statues. In short, the interpretations go in all possible directions..

By the way, not only coca leaves were used to induce hallucinations, as Horacio notes, ayahuasca was also used – a brew made from a combination of plants, which is now gaining popularity in the West as a psychedelic drug. It doesn’t just make you high; there's a good chance it will make you vomit violently or rush to the bathroom – or both. But there's an explanation for that, as it's said that you're expelling your bad traits in this way. It's a form of spiritual and physical cleansing. For shamans, ayahuasca was not a drug but a sacred drink that enabled them to reach different levels of consciousness.

Could the statue culture of San Agustín have influenced that of the Inca?

Early predecessor of Viracocha?

Ancient processional road

Sometimes the statues strongly resemble the Inca culture. For instance, there is a snake coiled around a pole. Although erosion has severely damaged the figure, it is still just recognizable. Horacio illustrates the similarity with a photo of a similar statue from the Inca. A little further on stands a statue that he straightforwardly calls an early predecessor of Viracocha, the Inca god of agriculture. It's a well-preserved statue that exudes power and even instils a bit of fear. But it would still be more than five hundred years before the Inca began to build their empire. Could the statue culture of San Agustín have influenced that of the Inca?

Three open burial mounds are contemporaneous with the Roman Colosseum

Mesita B

An ancient processional road with large, flat stones leads to an open space in the forest. Here, we find ourselves at the top of one of the levelled hills. To the right below flows the Lavapatas, a fairly unremarkable stream. Archaeologists call this place Mesita B. Three open burial mounds are scattered across the green terrain. They date from the Classic Period, probably from the first or second century AD, making them contemporaneous with the Roman Colosseum.

The king is holding a newborn child upside down by its legs, as if he has just assisted in a birth

King with newborn baby

Yet it’s not the burial mounds that immediately capture our attention. In the centre of the square stands a statue that is impossible to overlook – four meters and twenty centimetres tall, carved from a single stone. The man depicted here must have been very important, says Horacio, perhaps a king. However, he is not shown in a warlike or fearsome stance. Instead, he is holding a newborn child upside down by its legs, as if he has just assisted in a birth. What to make of this, we aren’t quite sure.

In the past, this square must have played a central role in the organization of local communities. There is ample evidence to support this. Traces of ceremonial activities have been found, as well as evidence of gold jewellery production. The lost-wax method was used in the process, as shown by the droplets of molten gold discovered in the remains of the workshop.

The burial chamber itself was filled with precisely defined layers of coloured soil in black, yellow, and red

The burial mounds are somewhat reminiscent of our dolmens. They are rectangular chambers, with roofs and walls made of large, flat stones. Inside these chambers, a sarcophagus held the body of a very important person. The entire structure was covered with earth, creating an artificial mound. Reportedly, the burial chamber itself was filled with precisely defined layers of coloured soil in black, yellow, and red.

What’s particularly striking are the three figures that seem to guard the entrances to the tombs. Each consists of a relatively large statue flanked on either side by a smaller figure. The central figure is especially notable for his fierce appearance – his face resembling that of a jaguar, with large almond-shaped eyes and terrifying fangs. In his hands, he holds a defeated enemy as a trophy.

 

The two soldiers are accompanied by their double me, their alter ego, each depicted as an animal figure resting on their shoulders

 

The two smaller figures on the left and right are soldiers. We can deduce this from the weapons they carry in their hands. Their facial expressions are relatively natural, especially when compared to that of their lord. But there’s more to it. These soldiers are accompanied by their double me, their alter ego, each depicted as an animal figure resting on their shoulders. This way, both the person and his spirit are represented – a form of depiction that we will encounter more often.

With its bright eyes and broad grin, this statue seems, at first glance, out of place here

 

Further along, a mischievous face is smiling at us. With its bright eyes and broad grin, this statue seems, at first glance, out of place here. Or maybe not, because upon closer inspection, the terrifying fangs are not missing. This is one of the most iconic statues of San Agustín, its image featured in countless brochures and websites. This is largely due to its unique design. We are not looking at an oval or rounded face, but at an enormous equilateral triangle, nearly two meters tall, balanced on one of its points. Some researchers believe the face is shaped like a corn kernel, but that seems rather far-fetched to us.

 

Eagle (or owl?) with snake

Another iconic figure is the eagle staring at us with a snake in its beak. Or is it an owl that’s being represented here? We can't say for sure, as both the bird of prey and its victim are depicted in an extremely minimalist way. This only adds to the mystery surrounding the site. The stylized sculpture wouldn’t even look out of place in a collection of contemporary art.

The stylized sculpture wouldn’t even look out of place in a collection of contemporary art

Horacio leads us to Mesita C. After the beauty of Mesita B, it's a slight disappointment. When archaeologists began work here, they found the site severely damaged. The burial mound had been destroyed, the stone slabs that formed the walls and roof of the tomb were gone, and most of the statues were missing.

This site also dates from the Classic Period but is about five hundred years younger, making it nearly a contemporary of Charlemagne. There is a clear sense of continuity with the past – again, those fangs and figures holding ‘something’ – but also signs of evolution. Unfortunately, in a negative sense. The stones used are thinner, so the artists were limited to simple, shallow reliefs, in contrast to the three-dimensional carvings we saw at Mesita B.

 

Mesita C – Figure without right arm

Figure with eyes like eagle heads

One of the figures is missing its right arm. This isn't due to vandalism; the statue was conceived that way. Additionally, the character is wearing a glove on its left hand. In 1756, Juan de Santa Gertrudis, a Spanish monk, felt the need to interpret this concept by calling it a priest whose right arm was cut off to strip him of the wealth that adorned him.

Horacio directs our attention to the eyes of another figure. These are not the usual almond-shaped eyes; instead, they are the heads of two eagles.

The creature even has human-like features, judging by the fingers on its front legs

At the edge of the open area, we see La Rana, an enormous frog. Or is it a toad? The creature even has human-like features, judging by the fingers on its front legs. In any case, it’s clearly not here by accident. Its nose points the way downward, where we’ll discover a very special artwork in the waters of the Lavapatas. And what animal could better symbolize the transition from land to water than an amphibian?

 

Fuente de Lavapatas

Fuente de Lavapatas, or the Fountain of Lavapatas, is what they call this artwork in the water. It’s located where the Lavapatas stream cascades gently over the brown rocks in a small waterfall. In ancient times, this must have been a very special place. People came here to wash clothes, to take ritual baths, religious ceremonies were held here, and women even came here to give birth.

A sacred place, then, where the deep connection between humans, animals, and water was expressed

Fuente de Lavapatas – Toad

Face of a warrior

A sacred place, then, where the deep connection between humans, animals, and water was expressed. This was done through various images carved into the volcanic tuff stone, over which the water flows. Over the years, erosion has taken its toll, and sometimes it’s difficult to recognize the figures. But gradually, we succeed. We can make out an enormous toad sitting motionless in the water, a snake forming a circle with its body, a warrior seeming to emerge from the rock wall, and a head staring at us from between two water channels.

 

To Alto de Lavapatas

Orchid

On the other side of the river, a path leads to the Alto de Lavapatas. It’s a bit of a hike, as we climb to the highest point in the park, 1,750 meters above sea level. But at the top, we are rewarded with a spectacular panoramic view of the vast landscape, with its densely forested green mountains. The fact that a civilization managed to survive in this terrain, with its steep slopes and wide, deep rivers, commands respect. They must have built terraces for their fields and homes, roads to move about easily, and dikes to control the torrential rains.

At this height, close to the Light of the Sun, shamans were often buried

Alto de Lavapatas

This was a sacred place, Horacio says, because at this height, close to the Light of the Sun, shamans were often buried. There was once a monumental burial mound from the Classic Period here, along with about seven statues and several simple stone tombs, including ten tiny graves believed to have belonged to infants. Surrounding the area were small settlements, where evidence of the oldest human presence in the upper reaches of the Río Magdalena was found. Carbon dating revealed that the remnants of a hearth dated back to around 3300 BCE.

On his back he seems to carry an alter ego – an animal figure fused entirely with him, resembling a crocodile

Phallic deity

God of agriculture?

The most striking statue is that of a male figure, with his member in an upright position, suggesting that we may be dealing with a phallic deity. On the other hand, he seems to carry an alter ego on his back – an animal figure fused entirely with him, resembling a crocodile. Could this represent a ritual transformation? If so, we’re likely looking at a shaman.

In the background stands another curious figure, half-naked, wearing a feline-like mask and holding a large club in his right hand. On his shoulders, he carries an animal being that cannot be identified. Archaeologists do not rule out the possibility that this is a god of agriculture.

 

Chiva

What we’ve seen was an intriguing introduction to a completely unknown culture. But it’s not over yet – the region has much more in store for us. After lunch, we continue our exploration in a chiva, a colourful bus with open, barred windows, typical of Colombia. Boarding requires some agility, and the wooden benches offer little comfort on the bumpy roads. But there are advantages. As we quickly discover, with a chiva, you’re allowed to drive the wrong way down a one-way street.

With a chiva, you’re allowed to drive the wrong way down a one-way street

San Agustín

It will be an exciting ride through the valley of the Río Magdalena. We climb higher and higher, and the view over the brown river with its many rapids becomes more expansive. No matter how steep the slopes of the deep valley may be, local farmers still manage to cultivate their crops here and there.

 

Valley of the Río Magdalena

Shortly after three o'clock, we reach the Archaeological Park of Obando, situated 1,800 meters high on the opposite side of the river. The graves uncovered here were only discovered in 1992. The fact that we can visit them today is entirely thanks to the private initiative of the local community. They obtained permission from the government to work on this piece of heritage in the heart of their municipality. To ensure the scientific nature of the excavations, they enlisted the help of an archaeologist.

After all, it is Pachamama, Mother Earth, who gives us life and knowledge. Thus, in the end, you return your body to Pachamama

The result is impressive. Four burial chambers have been uncovered, and the artefacts found – ceramic vessels, tools, grinding stones, etc. – have been housed in a beautiful museum. This is indeed a remarkable achievement for this small community of just 800 residents. It was a bonus that Mr. Obando, the owner of this land, provided his property free of charge and sponsored the work.

What’s interesting for us is that this site is not only about the Classic Period but also about the period that preceded it – the first millennium BCE. There were no burial mounds or dolmens at that time, we learn from Jerôme, our guide for the rest of the day. Jerôme still holds a French passport, but he lost his heart to Colombia 26 years ago when he wandered through the country as a tourist for four months. Barely four years later, he returned to Colombia to stay.

The underground burial chambers are carved into the rocky ground. A staircase with quite high steps leads down into them. For these people, it was only logical that the bodies of the deceased were buried. After all, it is Pachamama, Mother Earth, who gives us life and knowledge. Thus, in the end, you return your body to Pachamama.

The winged fish in gold is so unique it is now one of the highlights of the Gold Museum in Bogotá

Obando – Burial chamber

Winged fish in gold (Bogotá, Museo del Oro)

Starting from the Classic Period, the method of secondary burial was employed. When someone died, their body was wrapped in cloth and laid to rest in one of these pits for about four years until it was completely decomposed. The remaining bones were collected in an urn and placed in another tomb.

The findings from these graves are housed in the adjacent museum. It is a large, round hut with a conical roof, designed entirely in traditional style. The exhibited artefacts are rather modest – ceramic items and gold coins. However, one particular find stands out significantly and has since become one of the most famous artworks of Colombia. It is a winged fish in gold, a graceful figure from the Classic Period that is so unique it is now one of the highlights of the Gold Museum in Bogotá.

What makes this figure special is the fact that this type of fish is found along the Pacific coast but not in the Andes. This suggests that there must have been contact between the two regions. Also noteworthy is the refined grace of the ornament, which stands in stark contrast to the more angular and clumsy shapes of the sculptures we have encountered so far.

The mighty Río Magdalena squeezes through a gorge that is barely two meters twenty wide

Estrecho del Río Magdalena

Not only were there contacts with the coastal inhabitants, but also with those from the interior. This was mainly thanks to the Magdalena River, a significant transportation artery that was navigable over a distance of more than a thousand kilometres. However, here in the upper reaches of the river, that is not yet the case. We can observe this for ourselves at the Estrecho del Río Magdalena, where the mighty river squeezes through a gorge that is barely two meters twenty wide.

This is quite an achievement, as the river has had to carve its way through pure basalt. These basalt layers are the result of volcanoes that in the distant past repeatedly inundated the area with lava. Today, you can still distinguish the different layers. Some layers appear reddish, due to the presence of iron oxide. Elsewhere, we see how water flowing down from the mountains has scoured parallel grooves into the rock.

Fossils, notably of sea creatures, are clearly visible on the surface of the rock

Rock layers with iron oxide

Fossils of sea creatures

But right out of the blue, Jérôme surprises us with something completely different. The nearest ocean is two hundred kilometres away, and we are at an elevation of about 1,300 meters above sea level. And yet, he points out fossils, notably of sea creatures, clearly visible on the surface of the rock. Where could they possibly have come from?

The explanation is not far to seek. We know that plate tectonics caused South America to break away from Antarctica and gradually drift toward North America. This led to both continents being joined together at the level of Panama, but it also caused the landmass of Colombia to be slowly pushed upward – on average, by 2.7 to 2.8 millimetres per year.

Between the Andes and the area we now call the Amazon rainforest, a long inland sea was formed – the Paja Sea

The northwest of South America, 110 to 120 million years ago, with Paja Sea

An orchid grows as an epiphyte on a bromeliad which itself grows as an epiphyte on a tree

Of the three parallel mountain ranges that dominate Colombia today, it was the Central Cordillera that emerged first. About 50 million years ago, this part of the Andes formed a narrow peninsula, approximately three thousand kilometres long, surrounded by water on both sides. In other words, between the Andes and the area we now call the Amazon rainforest, a long inland sea was formed – the Paja Sea.

As the land continued to rise, this inland sea gradually drained. Here and there, pools of seawater formed, in which sea creatures could thrive for thousands of years. However, that too came to an end. The pools eventually dried up, and all that remains of the sea creatures are their limestone fossils.

 

Valley of the Río Magdalena

Tomorrow we will explore the other side of the river. There, a similar civilization thrived, but as we shall see, it managed to distinguish itself in several ways.

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Thursday 7 March | San Agustín – San José de Isnos – Magdalena Valley

 

 

Birds start chirping at six o'clock, roosters crow at four, and dogs bark all night long. Here, on the outskirts of San Agustín, we are close to nature. We overlook an open, green area with relatively few trees. Yet, we can hear birds chirping cheerfully from all around. It takes some patience and perseverance to actually spot them.

 

Cattle egrets

Some cattle egrets have sought the company of a horse in the pasture. While you would normally expect egrets near water, cattle egrets prefer to accompany grazing four-legged animals. As the horses graze, they continually stir up insects, which become an easy meal for the egrets. If the hunting is not going well, they can always perch on the horse's back to snack on some ticks for breakfast.

With its dark mask over its eyes and beautiful yellow belly, the tropical kingbird is easily recognizable

Tropical kingbird

It’s not shy, the tropical kingbird. It strolls calmly through the low grass with a beetle in its beak. With its dark mask over its eyes and beautiful yellow belly, it is easily recognizable. It catches prey without much effort; it doesn't need a horse for that. When necessary, it can even intercept insects in mid-flight.

 

Colombian chachalaca

A plump, pudgy figure high in the trees, that must be a Colombian chachalaca, for this forest bird only feels at home there. It doesn’t fly far; its food consists of fruits found in the trees. This is good news for the trees, as the chachalaca spreads their indigestible seeds through its droppings. It is an endemic bird, found only in the valleys of the Cauca and Magdalena rivers. Its size and beautiful plumage resemble that of a pheasant. And that is not the only thing these birds have in common; they are also a welcomed prey for humans, often ending up in the cooking pot.

 

Chestnut-throated spinetail

Speaking of cooking pots, the chestnut-throated spinetail is just one of the dozens of species from the ovenbird family. However, they are rarely, if ever, found in a cooking pot. They get their name from the fact that their nests resemble cosy ovens.

Despite its unappealing name, it is one of the most beautiful birds we have seen

Bay-headed tanager

Fruit is also the favourite food of the colourful bay-headed tanager. Despite its unappealing name, it is one of the most beautiful birds we have seen, with its reddish-brown head, green back, and turquoise belly. The yellow stripe between its head and back reveals that it is a male. Tanager is the name given by the Tupi Indians of the Amazon region to colourful birds, which literally means dancer.

 

Glossy ibis

The glossy ibis does not have it easy, as it prefers watery environments such as shallow lakes, lagoons, wetlands, irrigated farmland, rice fields, and more. With increasing drought, its habitat is shrinking. But fortunately, for the time being, it still finds enough food in this area.

 

Tropical mockingbird

A dense, pale cloud cover hangs over the valley, but it is not raining as we depart at a quarter to nine. Today, we will cross the Magdalena River in search of traces of the San Agustín culture on the other side. The distribution area of this culture is quite large. Their sculptures have been found over an area of about 5,000 square kilometres. And many sites likely still await discovery.

 

 

A blue hummingbird briefly flies alongside the bus as we pass through San José de Isnos, the main centre on the left bank of the Magdalena River. Where possible, banana and coffee plantations have been established on the steep slopes. On one of those hills, a solitary man is digging up sods of grass to expand his modest coffee plantation. It's a labour-intensive task, but it's the only way to work the land. Even then, it takes many years to wait for the first yields.

 

Alto de las Piedras

Just before ten, we arrive at Alto de las Piedras, where Horacio is already waiting for us. He leads us up a stone path to the top of the hill. Originally, this was a settlement, but during the Classical Period, it was transformed into a monumental burial site. The lower parts were filled in, and terraces were constructed, creating a flat, open area shaped like a half-moon. Four burial mounds stand here, and it is said that we can admire some of the most intact and even partially painted burial tunnels.

On its back, it carries a second being, part human, part animal, with a tail that clearly resembles that of a reptile

El Doble Yo (front view)

El Doble Yo (side view)

However, it is not the burial mounds that immediately capture our attention. It is the mysterious figure at the first burial mound that draws all our interest. El Doble Yo, or the Double Me, is how Konrad Preuss referred to this intriguing sculpture. It is a life-size representation of a human figure with animal teeth. On its back, it carries a second being, part human, part animal, with a tail that clearly resembles that of a reptile. Its face, on the other hand, radiates joy. According to Horacio, this strange being absorbs the negative elements of the person, leaving only the good behind. Notably, the burial chamber is situated quite deep underground, estimated to be four to five meters down.

It is in vain to search for fearsome tusks. These are small, anthropomorphic figures with purely human characteristics

 

At the entrance to each of the burial mounds there is a statue. However, unlike before, the animal elements are now absent. It is in vain to search for fearsome fangs. These are small, anthropomorphic figures with purely human characteristics, although they have a rather angular and squat appearance. They wear necklaces, bracelets, and headdresses. Horacio does not rule out the possibility that they were originally covered in gold.

On this side of the river, it was female shamans who held power, while only male shamans were found on the other side

Female shaman

The graves they guard still bear traces of the original colours on their walls. Typically, these were black, yellow, or red. We see strange circles and something that resembles a child’s drawing of a monkey hanging upside down. Horacio suspects that some of the inscriptions were added very recently, likely in the 19th century.

 

Recent inscriptions

Alto de las Piedras

One of the stone figures clearly has feminine characteristics. This leads Horacio to remark that on this side of the river, it was female shamans who held power, while only male shamans were found on the other side. Furthermore, a woman could only become a shaman if she no longer menstruated, as this was considered impure in this culture.

The tops of both hills have been levelled, and the soil removed has been used to fill in the valley between them

Alto de los Ídolos

A half-hour drive takes us to our next destination, Alto de los Ídolos. Is it yet another site with burial mounds and stone statues? No, this site holds some surprises, as it is one of the largest and most significant locations of this culture.

Once again, a long stone path leads us upward. As the dense vegetation clears, we look out over an area that rises on both sides. It is a relatively large open space, spread over two hills. The tops of both hills have been levelled, and the soil removed has been used to fill in the valley between them. This must have been an enormous undertaking. The result is impressive: a saddle-shaped, relatively flat terrain where burial mounds were constructed, various ceremonies were held, and surrounding residential areas developed.

In the middle of the site stands a colossal figure, 5.3 meters tall. The figure unmistakably has female traits, and Konrad Preuss referred to her as La Gaitana. This is a clear reference to a popular heroine of the indigenous resistance against the Spaniards in the 16th century. Every Colombian can recount the story of this fierce mother who sought to negotiate with the Spaniards as the chief of her tribe. The Spaniards were not keen on having a woman as a negotiating partner. However, when her son stepped in as her representative, he was captured and burned at the stake by the Spaniards. This brutal act did not go unanswered by La Gaitana. She managed to gather an army of thousands of warriors and inflicted heavy losses on the Spaniards. But ultimately, she too met her demise when the Spaniards brought reinforcements.

One of them, due to its peculiar hat and ear shapes resembling the shells of headphones, is commonly referred to as The Astronaut

“La Gaitana”

Mesita B – “The Astronaut”

The impressive figure of La Gaitana, while not connected to the real historical figure, remains a striking sight. Horacio notes that the statue has been partially buried for centuries and is tilted, as indicated by the slanted line that runs across it. Above this line, the statue is brown, while below, it is a pale white.

The strange figures that gaze at us from Mesita B are undoubtedly human forms, yet they are heavily weathered. One of them, due to its peculiar hat and ear shapes resembling the shells of headphones, is commonly referred to as The Astronaut.

Archaeologists have affectionately named her ‘The Girl with the Gourd’, evoking a connection to the artistry of a Vermeer painting

“The Girl with the Gourd”

At the entrance of the burial mound stands a beautiful statue that unmistakably represents a woman. She is adorned with an exquisite headdress, a necklace, and bracelets, holding a small bowl in her right hand. Archaeologists have affectionately named her The Girl with the Gourd, evoking a connection to the artistry of a Vermeer painting. Faint traces of brown and black paint are still visible on her clothing.

Lying stretched out on a grave, the crocodile seems to serve as a guardian of the resting place

Crocodile protects grave?

The San Agustín culture frequently depicted images of reptiles, birds, and mammals, but here we encounter an almost life-sized statue of a crocodile for the first time. Lying stretched out on a grave, it seems to serve as a guardian of the resting place. While crocodiles can be found along the coast and in the Amazon region, their presence at an elevation of 1,850 meters above sea level feels somewhat out of place.

We retrace our steps and climb across to Mesita A. By now, we are somewhat accustomed to the peculiarities of the site, yet we are still taken aback by the figure that guards the entrance to the first dolmen. With a snout reminiscent of a crocodile and menacingly crossed fangs, it exudes an intimidating aura. However, a grin graces its face, accentuated by large eyes and a wide nose. The tied-up depiction of its penis further emphasizes its masculinity, creating a striking contrast between fear and humour in this captivating work of art.

The sculptor aimed to illustrate the minimal difference between humans and apes

Mesita A – Man with little monkey

The figure before us holds ‘something’ in its hands, but it isn’t immediately clear what it is. Horacio informs us that it’s a monkey. He adds a philosophical twist, suggesting that the sculptor aimed to illustrate the minimal difference between humans and apes. However, we feel no kinship with either figure. The same goes for another creature depicted, which has a pointed snout and resembles either a giant rat or perhaps a skunk, as Horacio speculates.

Odd yellowish ochre circles on the slate walls of the dolmens add to the air of mystery

Lid of sarcophagus

Another surprise awaits us in the next burial mounds: stone sarcophagi. One of these stone coffins even features a lid adorned with a human figure, transporting us momentarily to Ancient Egypt. Odd yellowish ochre circles on the slate walls of the dolmens add to the air of mystery.

 

Male shaman with poporo (stick and gourd)

Further on, a male shaman makes his appearance. A dignified person it is, complete with an elegant headdress, necklaces, bracelets, and a cloth covering his genitalia. In his hands, he clutches a stick and a gourd, the two components of the poporo, as if he’s eager to chew coca leaves.

 

Man holding two fish

Another figure, radiating childlike joy, grins broadly while holding two fish. Fish was a vital food source for these people, Horacio explains, making their depiction here unsurprising. Even the bulging, round eyes of the figure seem to reflect life beneath the water’s surface.

 

Heliconia

Barely have we settled back into the bus when the rain begins to fall. We continue our journey through expansive sugarcane plantations, with the occasional factory appearing where sugar is processed. They first extract the juice from the sugarcane stalks, then boil the sap until it crystallizes into a thick, brown syrup, from which easily manageable blocks are cut. Once upon a time, these blocks even served as a form of currency.

 

White farmhouses dot the landscape, silent witnesses to the determination with which the farmers managed to wrest their fincas from the unruly nature

Valley of the Río Magdalena

The Magdalena Valley has already offered us numerous breathtaking views, but what the Mirador del Magdalena reveals is truly awe-inspiring. From a horseshoe-shaped rainbow platform, we gaze out over a vast panorama of more than 180 degrees. Between the lush green mountain ridges, the chocolate-brown river winds its way from one rapid to the next.

 

Flower and fruit

 

What immediately stands out is the grandeur, but also the ruggedness of the landscape. Traversing this area is no small feat, unless you follow the course of a river. It’s easy to understand why communities in adjacent valleys sometimes had little contact with each other. Here and there, white farmhouses dot the landscape, silent witnesses to the determination with which the farmers managed to wrest their fincas from the unruly nature. Black vultures, knowing there's often something to scavenge, circle endlessly above the valley, carried by the invisible thermals.

 

Black vulture

After lunch, we head out with two camionetas. The narrow, unpaved road leading to La Chaquira is too small for our bus. We climb quickly until the gravel road on the ridge turns into a narrower path. From here, we continue on foot, says Jerôme, who again has taken over from Horacio.

Despite their steepness, local farmers have not been deterred from establishing plantations on the dizzying slopes

Plantations on the steep slopes

Before us stretch the dizzying slopes of the deeply cut Magdalena Valley. Despite their steepness, the local farmers have not been deterred. Here and there, they've established plantations – a massive undertaking, and a dangerous one at that.

Jerôme leads the way down. What we’re about to see remains a mystery for now, and the suspense grows when the zigzagging dirt path transforms into a solid metal staircase. We continue descending, with a cascade of enormous volcanic rocks to our left, piled up as if a giant hand had rolled them down the hillside.

 

La Chaquira – Spectacled bear

Suddenly, Jerôme points out one of these stones. It takes a moment for us to realize what we’re looking at. Much to our surprise it turns out to be a stylized depiction of a bear, specifically a spectacled bear, the only bear species native to South America. And there are more such carvings to discover among the rocks, we’re told.

The metal staircase has now become a platform, from which we search for these other images. It’s no easy task, as the stones have been exposed to the elements for centuries. Even volcanic rock suffers over time. Jerôme, who has been visiting this site for almost twenty years, recalls carvings of birds and even a mountain tapir that have since eroded away.

La Chaquira is a ceremonial place in the open nature, where human and animal figures are depicted in a naturalistic style

La Chaquira – Shaman

We have no trouble recognizing the shaman with bulging eyes and arms raised in the air – he is clearly distinguishable. A second shaman, visible only by his face, is also easily identifiable. However, the monkey and iguana that Jerôme points out are barely discernible to us.

Unlike previous sites with burial mounds or cemeteries, this is a ceremonial place in the open nature, where human and animal figures are depicted in a naturalistic style, similar to the carvings found at the Fuente de Lavapatas, where images were sculpted into the river rocks.

Just as the Fuente de Lavapatas is closely linked to the sacred nature of water, La Chaquira cannot be separated from the breathtaking landscape around us, with the Río Magdalena flowing 200 meters below through the valley. It is this profound connection to nature that makes both places so extraordinary.

For the people of the San Agustín culture, this bond with nature was fundamental, as Jerôme explains. They recognized three levels of spirituality: the upper world, inhabited by spirits; the earth, shared by humans and most animals; and the underworld, associated with water and fish. Birds acted as messengers between the upper world and the earth, while reptiles and amphibians connected the earth with the underworld. The ultimate goal was rebirth in the upper world. A shaman in trance could temporarily open this spiritual realm but had to close it immediately, for under no circumstances could spirits from the upper world interfere with people on earth.

We return to San Agustín, not without stopping to linger at the figures of El Tablón. There are five of them, displayed under a shelter. One of the figures, with a head as large as the rest of its body, strikes us as somewhat amusing. Perhaps it’s a metaphor for great wisdom. His feet point outward, and once again, we can't help but notice the resemblance to figures from ancient Egypt.

One of the figures, with a head as large as the rest of its body, strikes us as somewhat amusing. Perhaps it’s a metaphor for great wisdom

El Tablόn

Female figure associated with Pachamama

But it is primarily the central figure that commands attention. Not only because of its size, but also due to its highly stylized design. A diadem, nose ring, necklaces, and bracelets all suggest that this is a female figure, closely associated with Pachamama, the earth goddess who symbolizes both life and knowledge. Once again, we notice that the eyes contain depictions of two eagles.

 

San Agustín

Just after five o'clock, we stroll through Parque Principal in San Agustín. It is one of those leafy squares that South America seems to specialize in, where there is always a lively atmosphere, especially in the early evening. The hum of conversations from people chatting on benches beneath the trees fills the air and is only occasionally interrupted by the disruptive sound of a motorbike.

The modest brick church adjacent to the square might not seem impressive from the outside, but inside we find an imposing wooden altarpiece. At the front, a few women are working their way through the rosary with their monotone voices.

 

Iglesia de San Agustín

We then return to the hotel for a final dinner by the cosy fireplace. Tomorrow, we will leave San Agustín behind. Located just two hundred kilometres north of the equator, this is the southernmost point of our journey. From now on, our course will take us steadily north until we reach the historic port city of Cartagena on the Caribbean Sea by the end of next week.

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Friday 8 March | San Agustín – Villavieja – Tatacoa Desert

Just after eight, we’re leaving town. We have quite a ride ahead of us, over 260 km. It doesn't seem like we'll have to worry about rain today. It's cloudy, but the sun occasionally breaks through the clouds.

Like beads on a string, the Ruta Nacional 45 links together the typical villages and towns

The Río Magdalena will be our guide as we head north. However, that doesn't mean it will be a flat ride. Often, the road winds through hilly terrain or along the slopes of a mountain.

Where the Magdalena squeezes through narrow gorges, we even climb out of the valley for a while to continue our way via the Ruta Nacional 45 in the Timaná valley. This is one of Colombia's main highways, connecting the Ecuadorian border in the far south with the Caribbean coast all the way to the north, over a distance of nearly sixteen hundred kilometres. Like beads on a string, it links together the typical villages and towns, sometimes featuring a beautiful Parque Principal, such as in Gigante.

The idea that there would be no rain, of course, is an illusion. Just before eleven, we get our daily dose of wetness. However, the image that is created this way is somewhat misleading. Many parts of Colombia are suffering from drought. This is abundantly clear from the reservoir that gradually appears on our left. It’s a pitiful body of water. Wide, barren sandy shores are a reminder of better times when the water level was much higher. El Niño is widely regarded as the main culprit for this misery.

When the government announced its plans in 2011 to build this dam on the Río Magdalena, just before it converged with the Río Páez, the indigenous population strongly opposed it. An area of 82 km² would be submerged, traditional farmlands would disappear, as would 78 archaeological sites. Additionally, 467 families would need to find new homes. Protest actions were brutally crushed by the police in February 2012. Despite this, the El Quimbo dam was put into operation in 2015. In principle, it should produce 400 MW, but in practice, it doesn't meet the projected output.

All in all, the rain only lasted about fifteen minutes. The mountains are getting higher now, the valley narrower, and the slopes steeper. Like a playful snake, Route 45 winds its way up the mountainsides. Roadworks occasionally cause a minor inconvenience, but nothing too bothersome. A steep descent brings us into a landscape with dry shrubs, which quickly gives way to the lush greenery we’ve grown accustomed to.

After lunch a new phenomenon emerges – kilometre-long, perfectly straight roads

We have lunch at Parador El Molino de Hobo, a roadside restaurant known for its fried tilapia. After lunch a new phenomenon emerges – kilometre-long, perfectly straight roads. You won't find this anywhere else in Colombia, but here, in the vast sedimentary plains of the broad Magdalena Valley, it's quite normal.

By now, the Magdalena has grown into a wide river, though it too suffers from the drought, as small islands can be seen here and there due to the low water level. Dark clouds suggest more rain might be on the way, but for now, it holds off. Shortly after three, the landscape is bathed in sunshine again. Vast rice fields in various stages of production pass by the window – newly planted rice, green rice, golden rice.

Then Neiva appears, a fairly large city with nearly four hundred thousand inhabitants and even an airport. Tomorrow, we'll catch an early morning flight to Bogotá from there.

Little by little, the landscape begins to change

 

But today we bypass Neiva, as we still have about forty kilometres ahead of us. Little by little, the landscape begins to change. The surroundings are no longer so green; the grass takes on a reddish hue, and there are fewer and fewer trees and shrubs. At a certain point, even giant cacti make an appearance. We are clearly approaching a desert-like area. Even the evening sun is fully present.

You can't really call the Tatacoa desert a true desert

 

In Villavieja, about ten moto-taxis are ready to take us deeper into the desert. Shortly after five, they drop us off at the edge of the Tatacoa Desert. Although you can't really call this a true desert, our local guide Juan readily admits. With about 1,100 mm of rainfall per year, this is more of a tropical dry forest than a desert, he adds. But due to the high temperatures – up to 40 °C (104 °F) – that rainwater evaporates quickly, so fast that the vegetation barely benefits from it.

 

This place doesn't seem to belong at all in tropical Colombia with its lush, green vegetation

Tatacoa desert

From a height, we look out over El Cusco, the Red Valley, so named because the iron oxide colours the rock red. Juan even goes so far as to compare the landscape to that of Mars. To us, the surroundings resemble a miniature version of Bryce Canyon in Utah. Nevertheless, it remains impressive, this labyrinth of rugged, heavily eroded formations. Surprising too, because this place doesn't seem to belong at all in tropical Colombia with its lush, green vegetation.

Countless skeletons of fish, dolphins, and crocodiles have been unearthed in this area

 

How did this anomaly come to be? Thirteen million years ago, a predecessor of the Río Magdalena must have flowed here, not draining into the Caribbean Sea but instead into the Amazon basin. There must have been a passage through the Eastern Cordillera that made this possible. The evidence for this theory is literally right here. Countless skeletons of fish, dolphins, and crocodiles have been unearthed in this area. You can still see them in the museum of Villavieja, Juan points out.

 

Cardon cacti

Eight million years ago, that changed. The Eastern Cordillera had risen so high that the passage to the Amazon basin was blocked. The river then began flowing northward. For the local flora, that was not a problem. It must have been a lush Garden of Eden back then, with abundant plant life.

These cacti can live up to 120 years and grow as tall as eight meters

Cardon cactus

But that, too, came to an end. Around three million years ago, the Eastern Cordillera had risen so high that no river could water this area anymore. Slowly but surely, the existing flora dried out, and the Tatacoa Desert formed in this arid basin at the foot of the mountain range.

 

Tropical mockingbird on a cardon cactus

Following in Juan's footsteps, we descend into the Laberintos del Cusco, wandering among the strange formations. Juan points out a massive cardon cactus, one of the most typical plants of this area. These cacti can live up to 120 years and grow as tall as eight meters. The plant consists of a woody structure, strong enough to be used for making musical instruments and water pipes. Inside, there is a pulp composed of 80% water and 20% fibers. Goats don't hesitate to scrape off the outer layer to eat the pulp.

Their spines are meant to protect them from hungry animals, although they aren't very effective against those bold goats

Whatever plants you see here, they are mainly thorny ones, as only these can survive. They gather the moisture they need from the misty air in the cool morning hours. Their spines are meant to protect them from hungry animals, although they aren't very effective against those bold goats.

 

Bicoloured wren

From atop a cardon cactus, a tropical mockingbird surveys the surroundings. It's an omnivore, eating everything from spiders to grasshoppers, seeds, eggs, and even lizards. In this harsh environment, such a diet is an advantage, as there's not much food to be found. Meanwhile, a bicoloured wren scurries around with quick, short steps, busily searching for anything moving in the sand.

All New World vultures defecate on their own legs, allowing the moisture to evaporate and cool them down

Black vultures (f and m)

On a rock at the edge of the canyon, a pair of black vultures sits, waiting for something edible to appear. This is undoubtedly their usual spot, as the red rock is white with their droppings. This is no coincidence. All New World vultures defecate on their own legs, allowing the moisture to evaporate and cool them down.

Something even more remarkable happens in this desert after sunset, once darkness falls. The air here is bone-dry, and there are no clouds or disruptive light sources. In short, this is a paradise for stargazers. Above us, a stunningly beautiful starry sky unfolds. The glorious Milky Way spans the sky as a broad, pale band of billions of tiny lights. The star Sirius and the planet Jupiter stand out with their brilliant glow. Directly overhead, the constellation Orion shines in a position that's very unusual for us.

It's said that this is the second-best place in the world for astronomical observations

It's said that this is the second-best place in the world for astronomical observations. Only the Atacama Desert in Chile, where the European Southern Observatory has installed its telescopes, offers better conditions.

 

 

A brief folkloric performance closes the evening. By flickering candlelight, a couple performs three dances. First, there's the dance of San Pedro, a type of festival dance. Then comes a flirtatious dance typical among mountain dwellers. Finally, there's a dance for the elderly people – meaning, for us.

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Jaak Palmans
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