Children of the Water

Colombia | Anno 2024

 

Sunday 3 March | Montenegro – Armenia – Buga – Popayán

Monday 4 March | Popayán

Tuesday 5 March | Popayán – Silvia – San Agustín

 

 

Sunday 3 March | Montenegro – Armenia – Buga – Popayán

If you look at a relief map of Colombia, it immediately stands out. From north to south, three mountain ranges run almost parallel through the country – the Western, Central, and Eastern Cordillera. Between them lie two broad valleys, each dominated by a mighty river. To the west of the Central Cordillera, it's the Cauca; to the east, it's the Magdalena.

Our destination today is Popayán, a city over three hundred kilometres to the south. Like Armenia, it is located on the western flank of the Central Cordillera. Our journey will take us through the Cauca Valley, a broad, open valley where driving is relatively easy. However, it will still be a long trip, this time with Ferney at the wheel of the bus.

Low, dark clouds hang over the valley, but it’s no longer raining as we leave El Percal behind. Ruta Nacional 40 takes us past Aeropuerto Internacional El Edén, the airport where we landed Thursday evening and which we can now finally see in daylight. Half an hour later, we pay our first peaje, our first highway toll, at Corozal. The traffic begins to ease a bit now.

Why do we know so little about Colombia’s past? Were there no people living there?

The moment seems to have come to learn more about the complex history of this country. It’s quite a remarkable observation. In Mexico, the Aztecs held power, in Central America, it was the Maya, and in Peru, the Incas played the leading role. This is widely known, though these are generalizations. But what about Colombia? Why do we know so little about its past? Were there no people living there?

Certainly, people lived there, particularly the Muisca, who were part of the larger group that spoke Chibcha. When the Spanish arrived, there were estimated to be between 300,000 and 2 million Muisca. Yet their civilization seems to have fallen through the cracks of history, likely because they did not leave behind monumental architecture, cities, or city-states.

Moreover, we shouldn’t focus solely on the four major indigenous groups. In reality, there were likely thousands of tribes in Central and northern South America. While the Inca thrived, these tribes often lived in small, scattered groups in the jungle or mountains, sometimes as hunter-gatherers, sometimes as self-sufficient farmers.

With the arrival of the Spanish, things changed. In the 1530s, the Spanish began taking serious interest in what is now Colombia. They subdued the local tribes with ease, thanks to their superior weapons, the diseases they brought, and their ability to exploit rivalries between the tribes. For instance, Quesada needed only 200 men to defeat the Muisca in 1537 and found Bogotá. Pedro de Heredia had already founded Cartagena in 1533, and Sebastián de Belalcázar founded Popayán in 1537.

By 1700, 50,000 enslaved black people were being imported annually, and over three centuries, 12 million were brought over

More Spaniards came to the New World to seek their fortune. They were granted land by the Spanish government, but they lacked a workforce. The indigenous people refused, if they hadn’t already succumbed to diseases. So, the Spaniards began importing enslaved Africans, giving rise to the infamous Trans-Atlantic slave trade. By 1700, 50,000 enslaved black people were being imported annually, and over three centuries, 12 million were brought over. Three-quarters of them ended up in Cartagena, and one-quarter in Bahia, Brazil.

Due to this steady influx from Africa, black people are more prominently visible in Colombia today than in other former Spanish colonies. This is one clear difference, but not the only one. When the Spanish dominated the valleys, the indigenous people fled to the mountains, leaving many gold treasures out of Spanish hands. There were also slave revolts, to which landowners responded by organizing paramilitary groups – a troubling development that still leaves its mark today.

Colombia's independence in the early 19th century is largely due to Napoleon

Colombia, like many South American countries, gained independence in the early 19th century, largely thanks to Napoleon. Spain was preoccupied with fighting Napoleon and barely paid attention to its colonies, except to raise taxes to finance the war. Colombian landowners balked at this, declared independence, and when the Spanish tried to reassert control after Napoleon's defeat at Waterloo, they were met by Simón Bolívar, who defeated the Spanish army at Boyacá in 1819. Spain faced its own Waterloo.

Thus, the independent Gran Colombia was born, uniting modern-day Colombia, Venezuela, Ecuador, and Panama. In 1830, Venezuela and Ecuador went their separate ways, while the United States succeeded in detaching Panama in 1903, clearing the way to build the Panama Canal.

Colombia had become a country with a desperately poor population, a small wealthy elite, and corrupt politicians

Moving to the 20th century, it became the century of drugs, political resistance, and violence in all forms. Colombia had become a country with a desperately poor population, a small wealthy elite, and corrupt politicians. Left-wing opposition emerged, leading to the formation of FARC and ELN in 1964, with Marxist-Leninist and Stalinist-Maoist ideologies, respectively. In 1974, M-19 joined, targeting political corruption and electoral fraud. What they all had in common was the belief that violence was the only means to achieve their goals.

Meanwhile, drug cartels like those of Medellín and Cali grew stronger from the 1970s, fuelled by profits from drug trafficking to the U.S. and Europe. Pablo Escobar became the most infamous and powerful figure, earning an estimated 61 million dollars per day at the height of his career, and ranked as the 8th richest person in the world by Forbes.

Intimidation, executions, murders, assaults, bombings, kidnappings, and hostage-takings were daily occurrences

Thus, Colombia's four-leaf clover of violence came into being: drug cartels, guerrillas, paramilitaries, and the government itself, with its police and army. Intimidation, executions, murders, assaults, bombings, kidnappings, and hostage-takings were daily occurrences. Escobar alone is thought to be responsible for 8,000 murders. In 1985, rather than negotiating, the military fired tanks at the Palace of Justice when M-19 held 300 hostages, resulting in the deaths of twelve Supreme Court judges.

By the 1990s, the tide began to turn – slightly. M-19 faded, and Escobar was shot dead on a rooftop in 1993. A peace agreement with the FARC was signed in 2016, although it was controversial, as it lacked admissions of guilt or compensation for victims, and doubts remained whether the guerrillas had fully disarmed. The FARC even secured a set number of seats in parliament, effectively sidelining democracy.

The paramilitaries, drug lords, and ELN are still present, despite Colombia seeming more peaceful today. Gustavo Petro, the current president, began his career as a prominent member of M-19. However, Colombia is generally safe for tourists now, as long as you know which areas to avoid.

As for the much-criticized class system, known as estratificación socioeconómica, it still exists. Enacted in 1994, its purpose was to provide cross-class subsidies, helping lower-class people pay for utilities. Classes 1 and 2 are the slum residents, while classes 5 and 6 represent the wealthy elite, with the middle class in categories 3 and 4. Housing conditions and neighbourhood quality determine your class.

Only 11% of the Colombian population lives in decent housing in well-developed neighbourhoods with access to electricity and running water

89% of the population belongs to classes 1, 2, or 3, meaning only 11% of the Colombian population lives in decent housing in well-developed neighbourhoods with access to electricity and running water. In most cities, all six classes are present. If you climb a viewpoint overlooking the city, a guide can point out the locations of the six neighbourhoods, as if the city were a map showing the different levels of poverty.

Is your class forever carved into your fate? Not necessarily; social mobility exists. If you want to move from the lowest classes to the wealthy elite, one highly appealing option is to get involved in the drug trade.

Meanwhile, we’ve passed the Uribe tollbooth and are on the Ruta Nacional 25, part of the Panamericana, a highway system connecting the northernmost and southernmost points of the Americas over a distance of more than 17,000 kilometres. Only between Panama and Colombia is there a gap of about 100 kilometres, attributed either to the swamps in the region or resistance from local indigenous tribes against building a highway through their territory.

This is the flat part of the Cauca Valley. The fields stretch out over a width of 10 to 15 kilometres. With an average temperature of 23 to 24 °C (73 to 75 °F) and over a hundred rainy days per year, farming here is prosperous. Yet we are still at an altitude of 1,000 meters. The vast sugarcane plantations are particularly striking, and here and there, we spot the typical narrow-gauge railways used to transport the harvest.

Pilgrims are patiently waiting under the scorching sun to catch a glimpse of the famous image

Buga – Plazoleta Lourdes with Basílica del Señor de Los Milagros

Twenty to eleven. Ferney drops us off in Buga at the busy Plazoleta Lourdes. The name alone makes it clear – we are in one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in Colombia. Every year, this city welcomes three million pilgrims. This is largely due to the fact that, since its foundation in 1573, the Basílica del Señor de Los Milagros has housed a very special image of Jesus Christ. At the edge of the square, a line about a hundred meters long has formed, filled with believers patiently waiting under the scorching sun to catch a glimpse of the famous image.

As is often the case, various legends have emerged over time about how the basilica came to possess this unique image. One such story tells us of an eleven-year-old girl who wanted to cook but didn’t have enough wood. Then use this crucifix to start the fire, her not-so-devout grandmother commanded. Crying, the child obeyed and threw the crucifix into the fire. Miraculously, the next day, a new cross floated down the Río Guadalajara.

Miraculously, the next day, a new cross floated down the Río Guadalajara

Basílica del Señor de Los Milagros

Or there’s the story of a girl who was in love with a boy. For some reason, he had ended up behind bars. In hopes of begging for his release, the girl began saving for a crucifix. So much humility, so much devotion, surely that would be rewarded. One day, while she was washing clothes in the river, a crucifix floated by. She immediately took it to the pastor, but he saw it as a devilish plot and had the cross burned. The wood refused to catch fire; instead, it began to glow warmly. This happened repeatedly over the following days, and eventually, the event was recognized as a miracle.

No, another legend states, it wasn’t a girl but an indigenous man who was at the source of the miracle. In a forest, he had a vision. An image of Christ appeared on a tree. He reported this to the pastor, but the pastor didn’t believe him. Along with a few others, he went to the forest and had the image removed, fearing that a superstitious ritual might arise. However, the next day, the image was back. Thus, the event was recognized as a miracle.

On this Sunday morning, the place is teeming with pilgrims who take the story of the miraculous image seriously

Basílica del Señor de Los Milagros

Whatever the case, on this Sunday morning, the place is teeming with pilgrims who take the story of the miraculous image seriously. The basilica is packed; a Mass is currently taking place. There must be many hundreds of people following the Sunday liturgy here. The bustling activity continues in the Lourdes Square as well. People are strolling around the square, browsing the religious crafts in search of a sacred memento, or waiting in the long line to get a glimpse of the famous image. The light cloud cover moving in over the city provides some relief for those standing in line.

With about two hundred kilometres still ahead of us, we set off again just before two o'clock. In the distance to the right, the sprawling city of Cali should be visible, but we’ll be avoiding it. Once we pass Santander, the flat terrain is left behind. We begin to gradually ascend into the hills. The weather seems to change as well. Dark clouds are gathering over the valley. By half past four, it happens: the heavens open their proverbial floodgates, and rain pours down on the bus for half an hour.

But it’s dry again by the time we reach the outskirts of Popayán around half past five, one of the oldest cities in Colombia, also known as the White City, the City of Heroes, or the Jerusalem of Colombia. Tomorrow, we will find out why that is.

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Monday 4 March | Popayán

Why Popayán is known as the White City, is indirectly due to the nigua, our guide Patricia explains right away. True to its scientific name, tunga penetrans, this sand flea burrows into human skin, specifically in the skin of the soles of the feet and between the toes. Only the female flea does this, and its intentions are clear – to lay eggs. Measuring just 1 mm in diameter, the nigua is the smallest of fleas, but once it nests, it can swell up to 1 cm. Once the eggs emerge, the skin swells even more. Patricia has a gruesome photo of a severely affected foot sole on her smartphone.

Initially, the victim experiences only itching, but over time the inflamed skin can become quite painful. While the condition is not fatal, it can lead to secondary infections, such as bacteria entering the bloodstream, tetanus, or gangrene. It’s certainly not a pleasant experience.

 

Until someone had the idea to apply a mixture of glue and white lime to the walls in order to disinfect the city

Popayán, the White City

In the 19th century, Popayán faced a true epidemic of these little creatures. Efforts to eradicate the parasites proved fruitless until someone had the idea to apply a mixture of glue and white lime to the walls in order to disinfect the city. This approach turned out to be effective.

 

Torre del Reloj (Bell Tower)

However, questions must be raised about this solution. Tungiasis, the skin condition caused by the sand flea, is a disease typically associated with the impoverished. The streets of Popayán at that time were unpaved, and even the floors of the huts were made of sand. Walking barefoot day in and day out made the inhabitants easy prey for the sand flea. If these people had had access to shoes, much of their suffering could have been alleviated. Surely, it would have been a far better remedy than slathering walls with lime for a parasite that can only jump about twenty centimetres high.

In preparation for Semana Santa and Easter, the city must look its best

Nonetheless, Popayán has maintained its white tradition. Nowadays, the facades of the houses are painted with white paint instead of being coated in white lime. This is usually done around this time in preparation for Semana Santa and Easter, when the city must look its best. Hence, the facade of our hotel is currently under scaffolding.

 

Parque Caldas

We're in luck; the sky is lightly overcast, and it’s not raining. We’re standing in the central square, Parque Caldas, gazing up at the Torre del Reloj, the Bell Tower – an iconic landmark in the city. In fact, it was a gift from the British to celebrate two hundred years of Colombian independence. A little jab at the Spaniards, the Brits couldn’t resist.

 

Parque Caldas

Francisco José de Caldas

In the centre of the shady square stands the statue of Francisco José de Caldas. He was a highly intelligent man, according to Patricia, well-versed in mathematics and geography, but also a legal scholar and a military engineer. He became one of the first victims of the Spanish reconquista, the futile attempt by the Spaniards to reclaim independent Colombia. Here in this square, he was executed in 1816.

Every resident of Popayán knows that if you stand at the feet of that statue, you are immune to earthquakes

Catedral Nuestra Señora de La Asunción

The stately Catedral Nuestra Señora de La Asunción in this square is just one of the many churches in Popayán. In total, there are 64, which is one of the reasons the city has earned the nickname the Jerusalem of Colombia. The interior of the cathedral is relatively simple. There’s no shrine or retable at the front, but there is a statue of Mary being taken up to heaven. On the side wall, we can recognize a statue of Ecce Homo, the scourged Christ wearing a crown of thorns, the patron saint of the city. Opposite, there is a statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. Every resident of Popayán knows that if you stand at the feet of that statue, you are immune to earthquakes.

 

Ecce Homo

Pope John Paul II

Natural disasters are something they know all too well here. In the past, the city has been struck by an earthquake and two volcanic eruptions. However, the earthquake of 1983 is still fresh in memory. Three hundred people lost their lives, and 14,000 buildings were completely or partially destroyed. The heavy damage to the airport significantly hampered relief efforts.

Ninety worshippers perished when the dome collapsed during Mass

Catedral Nuestra Señora de La Asunción

But it was here, in the cathedral, that the heaviest toll was paid. Ninety worshippers perished when the dome collapsed during Mass. Aftershocks plagued the reconstruction efforts, forcing them to start over three times. Nevertheless, they were ready to welcome Pope John Paul II in 1986, and one of the stained glass windows commemorates that visit.

The mission of the Junta Pro Semana Santa is to preserve the famous Easter processions. Although it sounds a bit strange today, this tradition did face the threat of fading away in the 1930s. In their museum, they showcase costumes and other essentials, as well as historical photos of this tradition that has been around for more than 400 years.

A water fountain in the patio. Only a few could afford such luxury

Junta Pro Semana Santa – Patio with water fountain

The building is constructed in Andalusian style. It must have once been a wealthy residence, as Patricia deduces from the fleur-de-lis patterns on the walls and the coat of arms displayed, but especially from the presence of a water fountain in the patio. Only a few could afford such luxury.

Sons and daughters slept in separate rooms surrounding the patio. In the evenings, the head of the household ensured that all doors and windows were closed, Patricia chuckles. If the daughters had plans to sneak out at night, they would have to tiptoe through all the rooms, including their parents’ room, via the connecting doors.

Carrying a paso is strictly reserved for men, who even have to take an exam to be allowed to participate

In three weeks, during Semana Santa, or Holy Week, a penitential procession will set out every day, starting each time from a different church. The paso’s, heavy gilded platforms carrying images of Jesus or Mary, will be paraded through the city. Carrying a paso is strictly reserved for men, who even have to take an exam to be allowed to participate. Four bearers will take positions at both the front and back of the platform. It remains a demanding task, given the weight of the paso and the length of the procession – around three hours. Women will accompany them to spread the scent of incense.

 

Paso (mini version carried by children)

Paso with grieving Maria (archive photo)

The most important paso is that of the Santo Sepulcro, which carries the body of Christ laid out. This paso is only carried on Good Friday. The paso displayed in the museum, featuring Christ on the cross flanked by two angels, is actually a mini version that was carried by children.

If the young man wished to pursue his advances further and enter the house, he first had to sign a document committing to marry the girl

Another aspect of the colonial house that Patricia chuckles about is the window with a rather high wooden bench on either side. If you sat there, you could observe life on the street. It also allowed the daughter of the house to converse with an admirer. Of course, he had to be wealthy enough to arrive on horseback – hence the high bench. A chaperone would sit on the other bench, ensuring that the conversation remained appropriate. If the young man wished to pursue his advances further and enter the house, he first had to sign a document committing to marry the girl.

 

Casa de la Cultura – Lava patas

The Casa de la Cultura was originally a colonial house, later serving as a school for wealthy children from the 17th century onward. In the garden, we find an authentic lava patas. Visitors arriving on horseback would tie their horses to the wall outside and wash their feet here before entering the house. The pit is about one and a half meters deep and lined with bricks. A staircase leads down to two benches available for use.

Popayán's gastronomic tradition is so renowned that it has been recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage

Lava patas

Gastronomic festival 2016

Today, the Casa de la Cultura has evolved into the centre of Popayán's gastronomic tradition, a tradition so renowned that it has been recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage. Each year in September, a foreign partner is invited to the gastronomic festival; in 2016, it was Belgium.

 

Dominican monastery

In 1827, the University of Cauca was established in Popayán, an initiative of Simón Bolívar and Francisco de Paula Santander. They confiscated the buildings needed from the Dominicans, using the excuse that they were not paying sufficient taxes, according to Patricia. The Jesuits faced an even harsher fate, as they were expelled from all of South America in 1767 by order of King Charles III of Spain.

Is that why Popayán is almost the only city in Colombia that does not have a statue of Simón Bolívar, the very first president?

University of Cauca

Faculty of Law and Political and Social Sciences

Today, the former Dominican monastery houses the Faculty of Law and Political and Social Sciences. The university has a good reputation for being both affordable and high-quality, currently serving 23,000 students. Many politicians and economists have been trained here, including a significant number of presidents. Fourteen Colombian presidents were born and raised in Popayán, which is why the city is nicknamed The City of Heroes. All of them deserve a statue. Is that why Popayán is almost the only city in Colombia that does not have a statue of Simón Bolívar, the very first president?

 

Archiepiscopal palace

In the Archiepiscopal Museum of Religious Art, they collect religious artefacts – paintings, vestments, an exquisite collection of monstrances, and an authentic 17th-century chapel.

The Corona de los Andes is adorned with 443 emeralds and crafted from 18 to 24 karat gold

However, the most remarkable item is an artwork that is not on display: the Corona de los Andes, the famous Andean crown. The severe smallpox epidemic that ravaged this region at the end of the 16th century ultimately spared Popayán. A gesture of gratitude was thus in order. Around 1590, it was decided to create an unparalleled work of art. It would be a votive crown for the life-sized statue of the Virgin Mary that we saw earlier in the cathedral. The Corona de los Andes is adorned with 443 emeralds and crafted from 18 to 24 karat gold.

 

Authentic 17th-century chapel

During festivities honouring the Virgin Mary, the crown was often displayed publicly, but at the beginning of the 20th century, a decision was made to sell it and use the proceeds for charitable purposes. It took more than twenty years to find a buyer with sufficient funds, but in 1936, that finally happened. A certain Warren J. Piper, a businessman from Chicago, paid a substantial amount. What happened to the proceeds? Patricia doesn’t dwell on that issue, stating that the money simply ended up in the pockets of shady figures.

Since 2015, the crown has been on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. The amount the museum paid for it remains unknown, but it was a significant sum, Patricia sighs. The situation has caused controversy in Colombia, but attempts to reclaim the valuable crown have been unsuccessful.

Just like that, viche went from illegal to national heritage – quite a turnaround. Will drug trafficking be the next one?

Some types of viche

Lulo

Now, Patricia leads us into what appears to be a liquor store, judging by the numerous bottles on the shelves. Indeed, Fragua Malí La Vichería specializes in viche, a traditional strong liquor. Particularly popular along Colombia's Pacific coast, viche is made artisanally from sugarcane, resulting in a drink with an alcohol content of 35°. It can be enjoyed neat, but it is often mixed with sugary fruit juices or coconut.

 

 

Viche is even believed to have medicinal effects. Whether you're dealing with stomach pain, expelling parasites, boosting fertility, or seeking an aphrodisiac, viche is the go-to drink. We don’t hesitate and stock up on some.

Until recently, the government had a different view on viche. Producing it was illegal. It wasn't until September 2021 that a law was passed recognizing viche as part of Colombia's cultural and ancestral heritage. Just like that, it went from illegal to national heritage – quite a turnaround. Will drug trafficking be the next one?

It was precisely the image of the man who raped, tortured and killed their ancestors that desecrated the sacred site of Misak

El Morro del Tulcán

The sun has been shining all morning in this White City, making it ideal for the short climb to El Morro del Tulcán. This artificial pyramid is the most important archaeological site in Popayán and also the source of significant controversy. The exact date of its construction is unknown, but it certainly predates the Spanish conquests. At one time, there would have been a temple at its summit, which is now completely covered with earth and grass.

In 1937, the top of the pyramid was levelled to commemorate the city's four-hundredth anniversary. A statue of cacique Pubén, the Misak chief who was murdered by the Spanish a few weeks before the city was founded, was to be placed on the pyramid. Elsewhere in the city, an equestrian statue of Sebastián de Belalcázar, the Spanish conquistador who founded Popayán in 1537, was also to be erected.

For reasons that remain unclear, it was ultimately not the statue of Pubén but that of Belalcázar that was placed atop the pyramid. It was precisely the image of the man who raped, tortured and killed their ancestors that now stood above the ancestral graves of the Misak, desecrating the sacred site.

In March 1957, a storm exposed a three-meter-high wall adorned with adobe mosaics, which marked the beginning of extensive excavations. Thirteen tunnels were dug to explore what lay within. They uncovered steps, stone walls, and graves containing human remains, along with shells and semi-precious stones. It is almost certain that there was an artificial or natural lake around the pyramid at that time. In short, this pyramid was a testament to a refined civilization, as was quickly evident.

It was not a spontaneous outburst when the Misak attacked the bronze statue of Belalcázar in 2020

The pedestal without Belalcázar’s statue

Ermita de Jesús Nazareno

As global awareness of oppressed peoples increased – especially in the wake of the Black Lives Matter protests – the Misak people also began to take action. Because even after the signing of the peace agreement between the FARC and the government in 2016, Indigenous groups continued to be targeted by right-wing paramilitaries and dissident rebels opposed to the peace agreement.

It was not a spontaneous outburst when the Misak attacked the bronze statue of Belalcázar on 16 September 2020. Prior to this, they had pronounced their own verdict against this emblem of Spanish occupation in a public trial. Local police were present but did nothing as the Misak tied ropes around the statue, pulled it down, and beheaded it.

As if referring to the features of a landscape, Patricia points out the boundaries of social stratification

Popayán

What we find at the top of El Morro del Tulcán is nothing more than a stone pedestal, heavily covered in various graffiti. But the view over the city is impressive. As if referring to the features of a landscape, Patricia points out the boundaries of social stratification – on the left in the distance are the slums of classes 1 and 2, directly in front of us are the homes of the middle classes 3 and 4, and to our right lives the wealthy upper class of classes 5 and 6.

The architect insisted on his design, and his twelve-arch bridge still spans the Río Molino

Puente del Humilladero

It's not that anyone was explicitly humiliated here, Patricia explains as we arrive at the Río Molino. However, they call this the Puente del Humilladero, or the Bridge of Humiliation. The origin of this name lies with the farmers who approached the city over this bridge, carrying heavy loads on their backs. Out of fatigue, they adopted a posture of apparent humiliation.

What's particularly interesting about this bridge is that it was built using a mixture of eggshells, ox blood, sand, and glue as cement. This bizarre combination sparked quite a bit of laughter among the locals. Nevertheless, the architect insisted on his design, and his twelve-arch bridge still spans the Río Molino.

After saying goodbye to Patricia, we bend over an arroz cubano, a popular dish in the Spanish-speaking world made of rice, a fried egg, a fried banana, tomato sauce, and various vegetables. Shortly after, it starts to pour, complete with thunder, but fortunately, we are sitting comfortably inside.

Originally located outside the city, Ermita de Jesús Nazareno was specifically intended to focus on the indigenous population

Ermita de Jesús Nazareno

Popayán has many beautiful churches, but they are only open in the afternoon, as Patricia had mentioned. So we set out again after lunch. Dark clouds still loom over the city, but the rain holds off as we climb toward the Santuario de Belén, which turns out to be closed. Trees and bushes obstruct the view of the city, but in the distance, we can still see the Western Cordillera, where guerrilla activity is reportedly still present.

Among the many churches in Popayán, the Ermita de Jesús Nazareno is the oldest. Originally located outside the city, it was specifically intended to focus on the indigenous population. It is the only place in the city where the street is still paved in its original way. During Holy Week, it is said that believers even crawl up on their knees here. But today, that would be in vain, as the church is closed. It's a pity, because however simple and austere this church is, it contains some beautiful authentic works of art.

Perhaps the most beautiful church in Popayán is the Iglesia de San Francisco. You can immediately tell by its imposing Baroque façade. Financing the construction was challenging, and work often had to be halted due to a lack of funds. The Order of Friars Minor, after all, is meant to live in pure poverty, following Christ's example. It’s said that the interior of the church is equally impressive, with its high altar and beautiful side altars. Unfortunately, this church is also closed. Many priests in Popayán are on retreat in preparation for Semana Santa, we are told.

In 1767, the Jesuits were expelled from South America by the Spanish king, Charles III

Iglesia de San José

Perseverance pays off – we are allowed to take a discreet glance inside the Iglesia de San José, even though a mass is currently taking place. The Jesuits financed the construction of this church in its early days. They didn’t have financial issues, but they faced other challenges. As we know, in 1767, they were expelled from South America by the Spanish king, Charles III. Consequently, they had to hand over their church to the Redemptorists.

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Tuesday 5 March | Popayán – Silvia – San Agustín

The narrow road winds steeply into the mountains as we leave the Cauca Valley behind, ascending the western flank of the Central Cordillera. Our destination is Silvia, a small town with around 30,000 inhabitants, sitting at an altitude of 2,495 meters. The sun shines brightly in a clear blue sky, and for now, there’s no threat of rain.

 

Silvia

We are now in Nasa territory, the largest indigenous group in the Cauca department, with a population of around 230,000. Centuries ago, their ancestors fled to the mountains when the Spanish colonizers seized their traditional lands to cultivate sugarcane, coffee, and other crops.

 

Silvia – Market

But hardship is far from over. On 15 November 2021, Celia Umenza Velasco, leader of the Nasa, addressed the United Nations Security Council in New York, making it clear that her people still face a variety of issues. As an indigenous population, we confront numerous challenges, she said. The most significant of these are government policies, drug trafficking, paramilitarism, and armed actors. In short, the Nasa people continue to face all the elements of Colombia's violent fourfold reality.

The reason for this remains the same – seizing land, but this time for mining and coca plantations. Violence is not avoided in the process

 

The reason for this remains the same – seizing land, but this time for mining and coca plantations. Violence is not avoided in the process. Nasa leaders or representatives are regularly killed. Although the massacre at El Nilo happened in 1991, it is still remembered that 21 innocent Nasa, including several children, were brutally murdered.

 

 

We arrive in Silvia quite early. However, Catherine, our local guide, is already there. She belongs to the Misak, a much smaller group than the Nasa. She estimates the Misak population in Colombia at around 18,000. The majority of them live higher up in the mountains, in one of the 40 villages of the Guambía indigenous reserve, an area the Misak control autonomously. Of the 18,000 hectares (44,500 acres) they have, only 6,000 hectares (14,800 acres) are suitable for agriculture – equivalent to a strip of land 6 km by 10 km.

What makes the Misak unique is how they have managed to preserve their ancestral traditions and cultural heritage

Traditional attire of the Misak

What makes the Misak unique is how they have managed to preserve their ancestral traditions and cultural heritage. This is evident in their 2020 action of traveling to Popayán to literally topple the statue of the conquistador Belalcázar. Even during Spanish colonization, they maintained their autonomy through fierce resistance, something that indigenous groups in Colombia rarely achieved. Throughout Latin America, the Misak are still highly regarded for their emphasis on passing down ancestral wisdom to younger generations.

 

 

That also applies to their farming practices. The Misak still cultivate their crops using traditional methods, respecting nature and sustainability. Their primary goal is to meet their own needs. You will mainly find potatoes, beans, corn, cabbage and ulluco in their fields.

Ulluco, though relatively unknown to us, is a popular tuber in the Andes. In terms of turnover, it only has to let potatoes go first. The tuber is the main part consumed, but the leaves are also edible – similar to spinach. The tubers are usually the size of a potato, though some can grow up to 15 cm long. With its vibrant skin – yellow, pink, or purple – ulluco easily grabs attention in Andean markets.

 

 

That’s also the reason why we are visiting Silvia today – the weekly Tuesday market. The Misak come down to the town to sell their agricultural products and purchase goods they lack. Catherine reassures us that they'll be easy to spot in the crowd, as both men and women wear the colourful traditional clothing that reflects their indigenous heritage.

Draped over her shoulders she wears a rebozo, a square shawl trimmed with a fuchsia border and woven in the bright blue fabric that is the hallmark of the Misak

Traditional attire of the Misak

Catherine herself is a striking example. Draped over her shoulders she wears a rebozo, a square shawl trimmed with a fuchsia border and woven in the bright blue fabric that is the hallmark of the Misak. Beneath it, she wears a blouse with lacework at the sleeve ends and an anaco, a black skirt. Around her neck, she has dozens of beaded necklaces that form a white collar resting on her chest. She also wears a faja, a broad, colourful belt around her waist that serves multiple purposes. It can be used as a regular belt or as a strap to carry a baby on her back.

Blue represents water, the sacred lagoons, and the eternal rain in the páramo – the Misak refer to themselves as the Children of Water

 

All those colours are not chosen by chance. The fuchsia represents indigenous blood, while the black symbolizes Pachamama, or Mother Earth. White stands for harmony and purity, and finally, blue represents water, the sacred lagoons, and the eternal rain in the páramo – the high-altitude grasslands of the Andes. The Misak refer to themselves as the Children of Water.

The hat consists of a single long, hand-woven reed ribbon, spiralling outward from the centre

 

However, the most remarkable element is the kuarimpele, the small straw hat Catherine wears. It might remind us of a miniature Japanese pagoda with three compressed layers, but that comparison hardly does it justice. This is far more than a straw head covering to keep cool – it's a cosmological hat, as Catherine describes it. The hat consists of a single long, hand-woven reed ribbon, spiralling outward from the centre. The spiralling direction is deliberately counterclockwise, symbolizing a return to the origins of time and space.

Men always wear a black bowler hat, something seen on many women as well

 

The men wear the colours in reverse, Catherine adds with a smile. Their skirts are blue, while the ruana, a type of poncho, is black. Men always wear a black bowler hat, something seen on many women as well. In the past, men used to wear long garments, but these proved impractical for fieldwork.

We then ask the obvious question – do they dress up in this attire only when visiting the town? No, Catherine responds, the Misak wear this clothing every day, both men and women. For special occasions, they switch their daily garments for pink blouses and white skirts.

 

Chivas

In the main street, several chivas are parked – those colourful buses with open, barred windows, typical of Colombia. Soon, they'll transport the Misak back to their villages in the mountains. Goods are already piled high on the roof racks of the buses – purchases they'll take home with them.

 

With its vibrant skin – yellow, pink, or purple – ulluco easily grabs attention in Andean markets

Salt blocks

Ulluco

The market itself is held in a large covered hangar, spilling into the two adjacent streets. We spend quite some time wandering through the stalls. In the section with clothing, household items, and kitchenware, it’s relatively quiet. However, the large fruit and vegetable hall buzzes with activity. The selection of what we consider exotic fruit is immense. The meat section, though smaller, offers literally everything you could extract from a cow or sheep – heart, lungs, liver, stomach, kidneys, brain, eyes, feet, and even a whole head. Hygiene doesn't appear to be a top priority here.

It does not escape our notice that a few heavily armed soldiers are keeping an eye on things in the hangar

 

Although the market is mostly filled with Nasa people, it's the Misak with their blue shoulder wraps who stand out the most. They're on both sides of the stalls – acting as both buyers and sellers. But it’s mostly women who participate in the market. The few men around generally linger in the nearby streets. It does not escape our notice that a few heavily armed soldiers are keeping an eye on things in the hangar. Silvia, after all, is a tourist attraction, which could attract unwanted attention from certain groups. However, today, tourists are hardly to be seen.

 

 

It's becoming time for us to leave the Cauca Valley behind for good and seek out another great valley – the Valley of the Magdalena, home to Colombia's largest river. With its deep canyons, it is said to be even more majestic and impressive than the Cauca Valley.

But first, we need to cross the Central Cordillera. We head back to Popayán, pick up our lunchboxes, and begin the long ascent. Not long into our journey, we encounter roadworks. Our driver, Ferney, has no choice but to wait for about half an hour before we can continue our trek.

The Ruta Nacional 20 winds its way slowly through a narrow, lush green valley as we climb

The Ruta Nacional 20 winds its way slowly through a narrow, lush green valley as we climb. The road is getting worse now, maintenance is urgently needed. The sky is grey, but at least it’s not raining.

We soon pass through Coconuco, a small, unremarkable settlement. It’s one of the few places that still bears the name of the Coconuco people – a once-thriving culture with its own language and traditions. This civilization must have been closely related to that of the Nasa. Unfortunately, we know very little about them. Unlike the Misak, for example, the Coconuco people did not survive their confrontation with the Spanish conquerors.

 

 

Gradually, an impressive landscape unfolds before us, with rolling green hills and vast grasslands dotted with relatively few trees. In Paletará, we once again encounter the Cauca River. It's a rather modest river at this point, as we are in the region where it originates – just like the Magdalena.

However, it's not the Cauca that carved out this plain. In fact, we now find ourselves on the floor of a caldera, the remnant of a volcano that collapsed in the distant past. The earlier climb to Coconuco was nothing more than the ascent of the steep outer wall of this caldera, which spans a diameter of about 35 kilometres.

This region is sometimes called the fluvial star of Colombia because five of the country's major rivers originate here

Parque Nacional Natural de Puracé

A sign by the roadside informs us that we have entered the Parque Nacional Natural de Puracé. This region is sometimes called the fluvial star of Colombia because five of the country's major rivers originate here – not just the Cauca and Magdalena, but also the Caquetá, Putumayo, and Patía.

As if to prove that the road conditions could indeed worsen, the path is now unpaved and in extremely poor condition. It's clear that this is intentional, as the local indigenous population wishes to discourage an influx of tourists, aiming to protect the fragile ecosystem at this altitude – we are about 3,000 meters above sea level.

The páramos are unique ecosystems, found only in the high Andes, stretching between the tree line and the zone of eternal snow

Páramo – Valle de los Frailejόnes

That fragile nature primarily refers to the páramo we are now approaching. These unique ecosystems are found only in the high Andes, stretching between the tree line and the zone of eternal snow. There is no shortage of moisture here, as clouds continuously collide with the high mountain peaks, dropping their loads in the form of rain, snow, or mist. Only the dry trade winds from the northeast provide a brief interruption to this constant supply of water each year.

Wandering around in a páramo is not advisable for those unfamiliar with this habitat

Frailejόn (espeletia)

The soil of a páramo is rich in organic material, simply because it is not drained by streams. This means that the moisture can be retained quite well, creating a damp, sometimes even marshy ground. Because of this, páramos are often referred to as the sponges of the Andes. Wandering around in a páramo is not advisable for those unfamiliar with this habitat.

Nonetheless, we venture out around three o'clock. Ferney drops us at the edge of the Valle de los Frailejones, a vast, treeless plain dominated by strange, man-high plants. Are they small palm trees? Are they large succulents? No, they are espeletia, plants that belong to the composite family. This same family also includes lettuce and sunflowers, for example.

At the time, the Spaniards thought these espeletia looked like large monks, hence their Spanish name frailejones

Frailejόnes (espeletias)

At the time, the Spaniards thought these espeletia looked like large monks, hence their Spanish name frailejόnes. All in all, these are quite young plants, having appeared on Earth only five million years ago. In the plant kingdom, that is considered a very young species. They have a bare, quite thick stem entirely covered with dead leaves. This is a clever adaptation, as by leaving the dead leaves hanging, the plants protect themselves against cold winds and UV radiation. At the top, they have a rosette of several dozen green leaves, and it is the woolly hairs that protect the plant from the harsh climate.

 

Frailejόn (espeletia)

 

Gradually, we ascend by bus to the highest point of the pass over the Central Cordillera, just over 3,200 meters above sea level. After this, the descent into the valley of the Magdalena can begin.

It seems like an anomaly to find such a solid bridge on this unpaved road, and it is

 

For a moment, we pause at the bridge over the Mazamorras, a wide, relatively recent concrete bridge. It seems like an anomaly to find such a solid bridge on this unpaved road, and it is. The original bridge was dynamited by the FARC in February 2003. Below in the river, we can still see the debris from it. In the aftermath, two soldiers lost their lives when they stepped on one of the landmines left behind by the FARC.

 

Puracé volcano

In the distance, we can just make out the grey, cloud-free silhouette of the Puracé volcano cone, one of the most active volcanoes in Colombia. Since 1948, more than 17 eruptions have been observed, with the last major eruption occurring in 1977.

Mountain tapirs are found exclusively in the Andes of Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru

Zona de Danta de Montaña reads a sign beside the road, indicating that we might encounter the mountain tapir here – at least in principle. Because it is only at dusk that this animal, with its small characteristic trunk, starts actively foraging for food. For the rest of the day, it prefers to hide in the underbrush.

 

 

Mountain tapirs are found exclusively in the Andes of Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru, and only at elevations between 2,000 and 4,500 meters. To protect themselves from the cold mountain climate and intense solar radiation, they have developed a very thick, woolly layer about four centimetres thick that wraps around their skin like a warm fleece.

Occasionally, the foliage on both sides of the road arches over our heads, creating a green tunnel, so dark that it seems as if we are driving through the darkness of the night

As we continue to descend, the vegetation becomes increasingly lush and exuberant. Occasionally, the foliage on both sides of the road arches over our heads, creating a green tunnel, so dark that it seems as if we are driving through the darkness of the night.

Shortly after five, to the great relief of Ferney and his passengers, we find asphalt under our wheels once again. The road rolls over the green hills like a winding ribbon. Above the dark shadow of a deep valley, pale, ragged wisps of mist drift lazily. The low evening sun bathes the hazy air in a warm glow with its reddish rays. Here and there, we pass a small village, and isolated farms dot the landscape.

 

 

At a quarter past six, we catch our first glimpses of the famous Magdalena Valley, which looks very promising. Twenty minutes later, we arrive at our hotel in San Agustín on the eastern flank of the Central Cordillera. Hardly has the bus door opened when a large black dog hops inside and begins to sniff everyone. No, no, laughs Emiliano, dismissing our surprise as he greets his guests with a handshake. It's not a drug dog. The animal is just very excited whenever new guests arrive.

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