An old man with a long white beard and a boy

Greenland | Anno 2023

 

Saturday, August 19 | Nuuk

Sunday, August 20 | Sisimiut

Monday, August 21 | Ilulissat – Diskobugten – Icefjord

 

 

Saturday, August 19 | Nuuk

Seven o'clock. The Fram rolls and pitches a little on the rough sea, but our sleep is not affected. We are on the open sea, at the latitude of Nuuk, the capital of Greenland, as a glance at the real-time map on our TV screen tells us. The sun casts its warm glow over the silver sea. Visibility is excellent, with no fog, though there are some high clouds. And a certain haziness gives the countless small islands off the coast that touch of mystery so typical of the far north.

 

 

Where exactly Nuuk is located in that labyrinth, we can only guess. But we trust that our Norwegian captain, Sverre, knows the way. In any case, the Fram has now turned eastward, and we are heading towards the coast. Many tall, irregular mountain peaks dominate the horizon. They are bare peaks with jagged shapes, standing haphazardly as if they have no regard for the natural order of mountain and valley. One of these peaks surpasses all the others, both in size and height. That is the Sermitsiaq, its dominant blue-grey profile being the landmark of Nuuk. What Sugarloaf Mountain is to Rio de Janeiro, Sermitsiaq is to Nuuk.

What Sugarloaf Mountain is to Rio de Janeiro, Sermitsiaq is to Nuuk

Skyline of Nuuk with Semitsiaq

After breakfast, we have approached the city a bit closer. Hundreds of seagulls bob along with the rolling water's surface, and here and there, a small ice floe drifts in the water. The skyline of Nuuk is now slowly coming into view. It is not the quaint settlement we might have expected. We see apartment buildings, port facilities, tank reservoirs, containers, and construction cranes. Fortunately, we also see the typical brightly coloured Greenlandic houses.

 

Nuuk

Twenty thousand people live here. That’s more than a third of Greenland’s total population, which is estimated at 56 600. With an area of just over 2,1 million km² – four times the size of France – this island has 0,03 inhabitants per square kilometre. You can't call it densely populated. Moreover, Greenlanders live exclusively along the coast. It’s no surprise no one lives on the central ice sheet.

Try wrapping a soccer ball as a nice Christmas present, and you’ll understand the problem

Still, a note is needed here. If you look at Greenland on a typical Mercator projection world map, the island appears enormous, even larger than Africa. But that’s not correct. When the spherical surface of the Earth is represented on a flat map, a distortion occurs. Our German geologist Steffen uses a nice analogy to describe this problem. Try wrapping a soccer ball as a nice Christmas present, he says, and you’ll understand the problem.

 

Nuuk

In the Mercator projection, this distortion increases the closer the area is to the poles. This is why Greenland appears disproportionately large on a map. In reality, the island is slightly smaller than Saudi Arabia and even fifteen times smaller than Africa.

 

Nuuk – Harbour

Meanwhile, the Fram has entered the port of Nuuk. A berth is available at the Feederkaj. Luckily, otherwise, we would have had to go ashore by zodiac. Now, we can disembark the ship via the gangway on deck 3. What stands out is that the scanning equipment is set up again. So, upon our return, both we and our luggage will be scanned. The PA system announces that the temperature is a comfortable 7 °C (45 °F), with a wind speed of 8 m/s.

Nuuk turns out to be one big construction site. At least five apartment blocks are under construction, streets are torn up, construction cranes are in full swing

Nuuk

At ten thirty, we take a shuttle bus into the city. Nuuk turns out to be one big construction site. At least five apartment blocks, about ten stories high, are under construction. Here and there, the streets are torn up, and construction cranes are in full swing. Naturally, this shouldn't surprise us. Only the short summer period is suitable for such work. With temperatures ranging from –20 °C to –30 °C (–4 °F to –22 °F) and snow from October to May, you can’t accomplish much in winter here.

 

Nuuk

But it does show that this city is alive. The image we glimpsed earlier of Nuuk's skyline is confirmed. Crosswalks, traffic lights, taxis, a large indoor shopping centre, an impressive cultural centre – all the features of a modern city are present.

Katuaq, the Cultural Centre, is where Yongna awaits us. She will guide us through the city during the Nuuk City Tour. She was born in Paamiut, at the mouth of the Kvangefjord where we were just yesterday, but moved to the big city seeking more opportunities for personal development. She's 41 years old, has four children, and was a teacher until she retrained as a tour guide in 2014. Things nearly went badly for her when tourism collapsed during the COVID-19 pandemic, but now tourism in Nuuk is booming like never before.

The designers of the Cultural Centre aimed to evoke the Northern Lights

Cultural Centre Katuaq

In its simplicity, the facade of the Cultural Centre still manages to surprise us. The designers aimed to evoke the Northern Lights, according to Yongna. Hence, the wavy pattern of vertical ribs that seem to descend like a curtain from the sky. Inside the building, you'll find cafes, restaurants, and a cinema, in addition to the obligatory large hall for live performances and several smaller rooms for various cultural activities.

The people of Nuuk are definitely in tune with modern times, Yongna giggles, they all have smartphones and are all on Facebook. But they also enjoy more traditional activities, like occasionally catching a movie. Hence, the many posters of recent films.

Large metal sculptures in the pedestrian street represent umiaks, the traditional rowing boats of the Inuit, used to transport women, children, and household goods. These boats are called women's boats, in contrast to the kayaks that the men used for hunting.

Greenland's national flag represents the sunrise over an ice field

Greenland's national flag

Sled dogs

Further ahead is the covered shopping centre with its many shops, food bars, and restaurants. During the dark winter months, it is an ideal meeting place. A red-and-white flag flutters in front of a government building. This is Greenland's national flag, representing the sunrise over an ice field. While Greenland formally remains part of Denmark, since 1998, it has been able to proudly display its own flag.

Look at his nose, says Yongna, it's so large because his bullies used to lift him by his nostrils

Kaassassuk

With its swollen and seemingly naive style, the bronze statue at the end of the pedestrian street reminds us of the work of Fernando Botero. However, it is by a Greenlandic artist, Simon Kristoffersen. It depicts Kaassassuk, the main character from a famous myth in Inuit oral tradition. From Alaska to Greenland, the story of this boy, who was bullied by his surroundings, is well known. Look at his nose, says Yongna, it's so large because his bullies used to lift him by his nostrils. Eventually, Pissaap Inua, a mythological figure, came to his aid, and Kaassassuk was able to defeat his tormentors one by one. Both figures are intertwined in this statue. Today, Kaassassuk symbolizes the physical and psychological strength of people and their will for self-determination.

Kaassassuk symbolizes the physical and psychological strength of people and their will for self-determination

A small grassy area with a few benches serves as a city park. In the centre stands a monolith with the inscription Frederik IX – Ingrid – 12-7-1952, commemorating the visit of the Danish king and queen to Nuuk in 1952. Once the Christmas season arrives, a large Christmas tree will be set up here. The tree is brought in from elsewhere, as trees and shrubs are rare in this environment.

 

Monument to Frederik IX

Higher up the slopes are the colourful wooden houses that make Greenlandic settlements so picturesque. Their uniform appearance is due to the fact that they arrive as a kind of self-assembly kit from Denmark – an IKEA for homes, so to speak. Private houses can be painted in any colour, though in practice, people usually use whatever paint is available in the store at the time. However, there is a colour code for official buildings: yellow for hospitals and doctors' homes, red for churches, schools, teachers' homes, and shops, green for power plants, garages, and telecom, blue for the fish processing industry, and black for police stations.

With her appointment, Sofie Petersen not only was the second woman ever to become a bishop in the Danish Lutheran Church, but also the second Inuit

The Annaassisitta Oqaluffia, Nuuk's wooden cathedral, is built in the same style. Unfortunately, we can't visit this red Saviour’s Church, as there is currently a funeral service taking place, Yongna informs us. And, of course, we shouldn't disturb that. Since 1993, Greenland has been able to boast of its own bishop again. Until December 2020, this was Sofie Petersen, who completed her theology studies at the University of Copenhagen. She was not only the second woman ever to become a bishop in the Danish Lutheran Church but also the second Inuit to hold the position.

Most residents of Nuuk are Greenlanders, but there are also a few foreigners. To illustrate this, Yongna mentions a Thai family that runs a restaurant here. Meanwhile, it turns out that a wedding, not a funeral, is taking place in the church. In fact, two wedding ceremonies, Yongna excitedly chirps a little later.

Hans Egede was the man who would Christianize the Inuit and would be called the Apostle of Greenland

Hans Egede

Inussuk Self Rule (Niels Motfeldt)

From a hill, the statue of Hans Egede overlooks the city. This was the man who, in 1728, founded the settlement of Godthåb – Good Hope – which would later become Nuuk. He was also the man who would Christianize the Inuit and, for this reason, would be called the Apostle of Greenland. Nowadays, there is some controversy surrounding his name due to the moral superiority he continued to project. We look out over the sea, the old colonial harbour, and the new city. What stands out most is the futuristic architecture of the covered shopping centre. The visibility is excellent, but the wind is rather chilly.

 

Cathedral Annaassisitta Oqaluffia

We descend the hill just as the doors of the church swing open and the churchgoers stream outside. Some have donned their traditional Greenlandic attire for this festive occasion. For the men, this is a rather simple outfit – a white anorak with a hood, black pants, and black shoes.

The most striking and also most typical feature is the multicoloured beaded collar they wear over their red satin blouses

Traditional festive clothing

The women, however, are dressed in much more colourful clothing. The most striking and iconic feature is the multicoloured beaded collar they wear over their red satin blouses. This collar is made up of thousands of monochrome glass beads, intricately woven into a net of colourful geometric patterns. It must have been a monumental task to create such a beaded collar. The blouse’s neckline is trimmed with a tight black leather band, and the sleeves also end with a black leather trim. The short trousers, reaching halfway down the thigh, are made of fine sealskin with decorative stripes on the front. The large, white kamik boots are also made of soft sealskin. The long socks are crafted from fine crochet work, transitioning into intricate embroidery at the knee. Like the boots, these socks are adorned with floral patterns.

When needed, Sedna punishes people by tangling all the sea creatures in her hair, preventing them from being caught, leading people to starve

Sedna

The question naturally arises, where does this traditional attire come from? Didn't the Inuit use to sew their clothes from the skins of seals, reindeer, or foxes, or the white fur of polar bears?

This changed when the Europeans arrived with their trade goods – including glass beads and fabrics

Before the arrival of the Europeans, that was indeed the case. Jewellery was made from shells, and beads were carved from bone. But this changed when the Europeans arrived with their trade goods – including glass beads and fabrics. For their daily activities, and certainly for hunting, the Inuit continued to use only traditional materials, as these were the only ones capable of withstanding all weather conditions. However, for festive attire, they opted for more prestigious materials. Glass beads, in particular, became immensely popular. Over time, the bead collars grew longer and longer until they eventually covered the entire upper body down to chest level. As for the colourful patterns and floral motifs, they are attributed to the influence of the Moravian Brethren, also known as the Herrnhutters, who settled in Greenland from 1733 onwards.

 

Old colonial harbour

Yongna takes us to the old colonial harbour – or what remains of it. A little further out in the sea stands a beautiful copper statue, braving the relentless waves. This is the goddess Sedna, the Mother of the Sea. She is surrounded by a child, a polar bear, a seal, and a walrus. The legend tells of a time long ago when a man from a community of hunters wanted to marry the young Sedna, who lived on an island. Her father agreed to the marriage, but Sedna herself was not keen on the idea. To change her mind, her father began cutting off her fingers, one by one, and throwing them into the sea. This is how life in the sea was created. Since then, Sedna has been called the Mother of the Sea, the protector of animals, especially marine mammals. When needed, she punishes people by tangling all the sea creatures in her hair, preventing them from being caught, leading people to starve. Only a shaman can bring salvation by summoning Sedna and pleading with her to comb her hair so the animals can be freed again.

 

Old colonial harbour

A little later, we reach the National Museum and Archives of Greenland, the oldest and largest museum in Greenland. Not only have recent archaeological findings found a home here, but also the artefacts that were shipped by the Danish colonizer over the past centuries to the National Museum of Denmark in Copenhagen. Home Rule made that possible. That repatriation process began in 1982 and has since resulted in more than 35 000 art objects being returned to Greenland.

Green was the colour code for a girl born out of wedlock, white for a widow who was still fertile, and black for a widow who was no longer fertile

Traditional festive clothing – West Greenland

East Greenland

One of the first display cases focuses on traditional clothing, particularly that of women. It immediately becomes clear that the colours and patterns of bead collars differ from region to region, and even from family to family.

At a certain time, it was even customary for women to hold up their hair with a band of a specific colour. There were different colour codes for young girls, for marriageable girls, and for married women. But it didn’t stop there. Green was the colour code for a girl born out of wedlock, white for a widow who was still fertile, and black for a widow who was no longer fertile. Not illogical in small communities where reproduction was literally a matter of survival. But still, a surprising form of social stigmatization. This social convention is also attributed to the influence of the Moravian Brethren.

Countless finds from local cultures are exhibited here. Saqqaq, Independence I, Independence II, Early Dorset, Late Dorset, Thule – they all are represented here with a significant contribution. So significant that we don’t have enough time to study all the carvings in reindeer bone, driftwood, antlers, and even walrus and narwhal ivory in detail.

 

The frame of the kayak had to fit the body of the owner perfectly. So it was custom-made, no two kayaks were the same

Qajaqs

Building a kayak was a task in which both men and women had a role. The man built the frame. For that, he used driftwood from Siberian rivers that had washed up on Greenland’s shores. The frame had to fit his body perfectly. So it was custom-made, no two kayaks were the same. This is evident from the qajaqs on display here.

 

Umiak

Belts

Over that frame, a covering of seal skin was stretched, which was the women's task. Three to four skins from harp seals were sewn together for this purpose. It was a meticulous job, as the result needed to withstand impact and, above all, be watertight. The kayaker's life depended on it.

Sometimes they had to deliberately submerge themselves. This was the only way to protect themselves from a large wave

The central opening also had to be tightly sealed. This was crucial because, during hunts, it occasionally happened that the kayak capsized, leaving the kayaker hanging upside down in the water. To escape this life-threatening situation, they had to use a combination of a hip movement and a paddle stroke – this manoeuver is still known among kayakers as the Eskimo roll. In fact, sometimes they had to deliberately submerge themselves. This was the only way to protect themselves from a large wave when it threatened to crash down on them and break their back. Inuit children practiced such techniques from a very young age.

For us, it’s hard to fathom how the Inuit, in such delicate boats, faced the rough, icy waters of the Arctic – sometimes even going after whales with harpoons.

What makes this find unique is the excellent state in which the bodies have been preserved

Mummies of Qilakitsoq

The museum reveals its top attraction only at the very end. There, in a well-darkened room, they lie behind a glass wall – the world-famous mummies of Qilakitsoq. On October 9, 1972, they were discovered by Hans and Jokum Grønvold, two brothers from Uummannaq, somewhat by accident. They were hunting rock ptarmigans when they noticed two piles of stones under an overhanging cliff. Upon closer inspection, these turned out to be two graves containing six women and two children.

What makes this find unique is the excellent state in which the bodies have been preserved. The conditions for natural mummification at this location have proven to be optimal – a cold, dry, and well-ventilated atmosphere, protected from animals and the elements. However, it would take until 1978 for the mummies to undergo serious scientific investigation. It was then revealed that the individuals had died around 1475. They belonged to the Thule culture, the people whom the Norsemen derogatorily referred to as skrælings.

Thus, it was the oldest discovery of well-preserved people and their clothing, not only in all of Greenland but even in the entire Arctic cultural area. Furthermore, these were people from a time before the first contacts with European whalers in the 17th century. For now, it remains our only source of information about these individuals.

The centrepiece is the six-month-old boy. Initially, it was even thought to be a doll, so well preserved is he

Baby (6 months)

Only the four best-preserved mummies are on display here. The centrepiece is, of course, the six-month-old boy. Initially, it was even thought to be a doll, so well preserved is he. This is likely due to his smaller size, which caused him to lose his body heat much faster than the adults. His eyes and mouth have decayed, while the rest of his body has dried out. He lies with his little head on the lap of a woman. No matter how peaceful that image may be, scientists do not rule out that he was suffocated after his mother’s death in order to spare him a slow death by starvation.

As if she fell asleep forever right there, she lies on her side

Mother (25 years)

The woman herself lies on her back with her knees drawn up, her beautiful kamik boots clearly visible. Her jacket is made of bird skin. It is presumed that a kidney stone or bowel obstruction proved fatal for her around the age of twenty-five. The woman at the back, in her thirties, also lies on her back with her knees drawn up and wears beautiful kamik boots. Given her swollen belly, the researchers briefly thought she was pregnant.

The posture of the third woman, a fifty-year-old buried under the second burial mound, is very different. As if she fell asleep forever right there, she lies on her side – her knees slightly drawn up, a fur blanket over her face, her hands under her armpits, protecting herself from the cold.

In the Land of the Listless they did nothing but snap at butterflies all day, for there was no other food available

ust like the ancient Egyptians, the Inuit believed that the deceased needed to be prepared for an afterlife. Hence, there is nothing amiss with the clothing of these six women and two children. Their long journey might lead them to the Land of the Dead, deep beneath the sea, where there are plenty of sea mammals to live on. Or to heaven, where they could live off caribou and other land animals. It was worse if they ended up in the third realm of the dead, the Land of the Listless. That was the fate of poor hunters and women with improper tattoos. They did nothing but snap at butterflies all day, for there was no other food available.

After lunch, we descend to Katuaq, the large and modern cultural centre of Nuuk, where a Nuuk Grand Experience awaits us. So, an introduction to Inuit culture.

 

Cultural Centre Katuaq

Qilaat (drum)

In this culture, the drum dance plays a significant role, Micky explains. It’s no coincidence that Katuaq means the sound of the drum. It always involves a simple hand drum, a wooden ring over which a drumhead is stretched – similar to a tambourine but without the jingles. The Inuit call it a qilaat. Micky shows us a typical East Greenlandic qilaat, which can be quite large, up to a meter in diameter. The North Greenland variant, on the other hand, is smaller because less driftwood washes up on its shores.

Since 2021, the Inuit drum dances have been part of the intangible cultural heritage

You don't play such a drum by hitting the membrane but by striking the outside of the wooden ring. Dancing and drumming, the musician moves across the stage during his performance, making the qilaat trace a floating trajectory through the air. Since 2021, the Inuit drum dances have been part of the intangible cultural heritage.

They also create contemporary music here. Laura and Malloon prove this with their song Into the Land, a love song and a song of gratitude for hunters and fishermen. After all, these men are the ones who provide the food. They are the pillars of the land.

Next, the masked dances come into play. The dancers don't actually wear masks; they paint their faces with black, red, and white colours. Unfortunately, Micky has forgotten his red marker. Thus, he is forced to limit himself to black and white. Red symbolizes life and death, black represents the shaman, and the white stripes remind us of the skeleton inherited from our ancestors. With a stick held sideways in his mouth, he bulges his cheeks to enhance the spooky effect. Because that’s what these masked dances are about – evolving between the audience in a bizarre mix of creepy and clownish effects. In the meantime, Evalou has also appeared in the audience, nicely adorned with a mask in black, white, and... red.

Because that’s what these masked dances are about – evolving between the audience in a bizarre mix of creepy and clownish effects

Masked dance

Masked dance

Tastings also seem to be part of the cultural program. We are served a bite of cold-water shrimp with crab, a lamb-based dish, and a few sips of Icelandic beer to wash it down. We're a little less enthusiastic about the beer. As dark clouds gather over the city, we return to the Fram. The gangway is no longer connected at deck 3 but now at deck 5. In such a short time, the tide difference is apparently large enough to make the entrance to deck 3 disappear below the edge of the dock.

Shortly after five the Fram casts off. With a sideways movement, it slides toward the middle of the small harbour, turns 180° on its axis, and sails out of the narrow harbour channel, heading towards the ash-grey clouds. We're now heading further north via the Davis Strait. Sisimiut, a small settlement about 75 km north of the Arctic Circle, is our next destination. It is the northernmost port in Greenland that remains ice-free year-round.

 

Nuuk – Harbour

The sea is no longer calm; the wind creates whitecaps on the choppy water. As soon as we reach the open water of the Davis Strait, the forward deck on deck 5 is closed to the public, but the aft deck on deck 7 remains accessible.

It’s not exactly a storm, far from it, but walking in a straight line becomes a challenge to us

 

Later in the evening, the sea becomes rougher, and the Fram rocks back and forth on the turbulent waves. It’s not exactly a storm, far from it, but walking in a straight line becomes a challenge to us. We wobble our way to the restaurant for dinner. The outer doors on the port side are now closed, and we are only allowed outside on the starboard side – the land side.

Sisimiut has six thousand residents and a thousand sled dogs. The settlement is known as the sled dog capital. However, the same rule applies here, as we learn during the daily briefing: these are working dogs, not pets. This means we must keep a respectful distance and only photograph the dogs with their owner's permission. Although the chances of seeing sled dogs are slim since, in summer, they are gathered at a place called Dog Town, about three kilometres outside the city.

However, Sisimiut's name is not derived from dogs but from foxes, as it literally means the people who live by the fox dens. Walking around the old part of the town is quite pleasant, and there's an excellent museum with well-preserved historical buildings. The temperature is expected to rise to about 11 °C (52 °F), and the wind will not exceed 7 m/s. And, importantly, the Fram will have access to a dock. All sounds very promising. The forecast for rain shortly after noon won’t deter us.

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Sunday, August 20 | Sisimiut

All night long, the sea remains restless, but we barely notice it. Upon waking, we find ourselves sailing ten to fifteen kilometres off the coast. Grey clouds hang low over the black water's surface, white wave crests signal that the sea isn't calming down anytime soon. However, the swell no longer hinders our movements, the foredeck has been made accessible again, and visibility is reasonably good.

Water spouts reveal the presence of humpback whales, but we don't manage to catch sight of the animals themselves

 

In the distance, jagged mountain peaks rise like blue-grey silhouettes above the mists. Sometimes they are part of the coastal mountains, sometimes they are islands standing like sentinels at the entrance to the fjords. Water spouts reveal the presence of humpback whales, but we don't manage to catch sight of the animals themselves. A northern fulmar, as is typical, glides past the ship.

 

Black guillemot

Northern fulmar

A few black guillemots also make their appearance. In summer, they are easily recognizable by the large white patch on their black plumage. Rocky coasts, cliffs, and islands like these are their favourite breeding grounds. As winter approaches, they prefer to head south. They primarily feed by diving to the seabed, where they catch fish and shellfish, among other things.

 

It is a beautiful sight, this colourful little town at the foot of the imposing coastal mountains

Sisimiut

Then Sisimiut gradually emerges from the mists. We are immediately convinced: this is undoubtedly the most charming settlement we have seen so far. It is a beautiful sight, this colourful little town at the foot of the imposing coastal mountains. A harmonious whole, with the delightful array of colours from all those wooden houses that seem to balance in the most impossible positions on the deep green rocky hills. In our shirt sleeves, we enjoy the scenery. There is barely any wind, the water has been calm since we entered the inlet. And yet we find ourselves in the polar region, for this morning at 6:52 a.m., we reportedly crossed the Arctic Circle.

The captivating winter activities, he says disarmingly – riding snowmobiles and dog sleds, exploring the wintery surroundings, and a bit of hunting

Sisimiut – Old Church (blue) and New Church (red)

Half-past ten. Søren is waiting for us on the quay. Normally, he's in Denmark studying economics, but he's taken a break. A sabbatical year, you might say. He will be staying here in Sisimiut until February. We are curious to know what drives a young Danish student to spend an entire winter in darkness and cold. The captivating winter activities, he says disarmingly – riding snowmobiles and dog sleds, exploring the wintery surroundings, and a bit of hunting. In the meantime, he guides tourists around to earn some money.

 

Lake Parasuk

Thus begins our Cultural Historical Hike. You can’t really call it a walk, at some points it will be more of a climb over the rocks. That's because we will explore the island of Sallinnguit, where traces of ancient habitation can be found. Nowadays, they call it Teleøen, Danish for Telecom Island, due to the telecommunications equipment installed there.

We stroll along the calm waters of the Parasuk, the bay where beginner kayakers practice their skills, on our way to Sallinnguit. This area used to be a district with government buildings where Danish officials resided. That’s why many houses have two floors, with an entrance on each floor. The staff – usually local Inuit – were only allowed to use the lower entrance. A sort of Upstairs, downstairs in Greenlandic style.

The staff – usually local Inuit – were only allowed to use the lower entrance. A sort of Upstairs, downstairs in Greenlandic style

Upstairs, downstairs

Nowadays, you could call Sisimiut a thriving settlement, says Søren. The population continues to grow, to the point where you may have to wait up to a year for an apartment. For the little ones, there are eight kindergartens, the school has four hundred students, and there is a branch of the university. In short, there’s no lack of education. The future looks bright for Sisimiut.

The ground here is still rising by about four centimetres per year

What strikes us is the fact that Sallinnguit is no longer an island, as you can just walk right to it. This is due to the harbour expansion in 2012. The rock that was excavated at that time was used to connect Sallinnguit to the mainland.

Going even further back in time, the island didn’t exist at all. Thousands of years ago, it was completely underwater. The fact that it eventually emerged is related to the fact that the ground here is still rising by about four centimetres per year. Around twelve thousand years ago, the last Ice Age ended. A large part of the ice mass that once covered Greenland disappeared then. Freed from that immense weight, the land began to rise very slowly. That post-glacial uplift is still ongoing.

Søren leads us to the highest point on the island. More than four thousand years ago, the Saqqaq people had already discovered the charms of this bay – a safe harbour near rich fishing and hunting grounds. Archaeologists have been able to confirm this. The Thule, the direct ancestors of the Inuit, also built winter dwellings here. Eventually, the Inuit settled here.

The Inuit used to bury their dead in a crouched position, facing the sea

Parasuk Bay

Inuit grave

Two graves, probably from the 18th century, bear witness to this. Like the graves we have already seen, they were not dug into the hard ground but consist of stones stacked on top of each other. However, that is where the similarity ends. The Inuit used to bury their dead in a crouched position, facing the sea. Hence, the dome shape of these graves. The people buried here must have been important, as this is an exceptionally beautiful spot.

The Inuit are very spiritual, but also very superstitious. They will not come near these graves, not even to pick the strawberries that will grow here next month, says Søren. The Danes, however, did not take these sensitivities into account when they started building the telecommunications infrastructure on this island. Large reservoirs now stand right next to the graves.

In the distance, we see about ten dogs roaming on the neighbouring island. Usually, sled dogs are housed in Dog Town during the summer. There are about twelve hundred in total. But this owner had requested and received permission to keep his dogs on this island. A smart move, according to Søren, because while the dogs can swim, the cold water deters them. So, they stay where they are. If you leave food out for several days, they won’t gobble it all up at once but will only eat what they need to satisfy their hunger.

A few hundred years ago, these structures served as winter homes for the local Inuit

Turf house – Winter dwelling of the Inuit

Looking closer, we see what appear to be the remnants of turf houses. We would hardly have recognized them ourselves, these irregular, grass-covered mounds. But a few hundred years ago, these structures served as winter homes for the local Inuit. The walls were built from stone and turf, the roof supported by a structure of driftwood and whale bones, and the windows were sealed with translucent seal intestines. The door was always oriented to the south to allow the warmth of the sun to enter. The location was well chosen, as animals in the vicinity could be easily spotted from here.

Such houses were still in use in Greenland as late as the 1940s

Turf house – Entrance

Alpine bistort

Several families lived together in the largest of the three turf houses. It wasn’t a healthy living environment, as turf is a cold and damp material. The humidity inside must have been high, especially with many people living close together for months at a time. Yet, such houses were still in use in Greenland as late as the 1940s.

If the accused was found guilty, the punishment consisted solely of the shame that resulted from this public confrontation

Several families formed small communities. The leader of the community was also the shaman, who was believed to possess spiritual powers. Justice consisted of a public confrontation in front of the entire community, where a complaint was voiced and the accused would present their version of events. Then came the responses, which were not spoken but sung. If the accused was found guilty, the punishment consisted solely of the shame that resulted from this public confrontation. In a small community, this was sufficient. However, the Danes had no respect for this practice and put an end to it.

 

Dwarf fireweed (national flower of Greenland)

Arctic mouse-ear

Arctic willow

In the 1970s, the Danish government discontinued subsidies for small coastal villages. The goal was to bring people together in larger settlements like Sisimiut. Families usually saw this as a blessing because they gained easier access to shops, education, and healthcare. However, fishermen and hunters struggled to adapt to the small apartments.

As predicted, it starts to rain around noon, quite heavily in fact. We have lunch aboard the Fram and then head out again, this time for a self-guided tour of the old colonial town. Although Sisimiut is a small settlement, they do a lot to offer visitors a wide range of activities. Tourism, along with fishing, has become an important source of income.

A quartet of identical red houses appears to balance in a precarious position

 

We climb up along the mirror-like waters of Parasuk Bay to what was once the centre of the old colony, back when this settlement was still known by its Danish name, Holsteinsborg. It's as if the colourful wooden houses are defying gravity, clinging to the velvet-green slopes. On one of the steepest hills, a quartet of identical red houses appears to balance in a precarious position. You might think a strong gust of wind would topple them over, but that’s only an illusion.

We arrive at the old cemetery, an overgrown field of grass with rusty metal crosses and the occasional wooden fence surrounding a forgotten grave.

 

Parasuk Bay

There’s a thick cloud cover over the bay, but it’s no longer raining. There’s no wind, and it’s not cold either. The jacket we brought feels like unnecessary baggage.

At the top of one of the hills, a red church building towers over the colonial town. Though it dates from 1929, they still call it the new church because it replaced the old blue church, which stands a bit lower and had become too small.

With surgical precision, a cross-section was made, separating the choir from the rest of the church building

New church

The old blue church, the Bethel Church, dating back to 1775, it is one of the oldest churches in Greenland

Old Bethel church

In 1988, even the new church proved to be too small. They solved this problem with an impressive display of craftsmanship. With surgical precision, a cross-section was made, separating the choir from the rest of the church building. Then the choir was shifted about six meters so that the nave could be expanded in the newly created space. Where there used to be four large white windows, there are now six. Don't say this isn't a resilient community.

As we continue to climb, we arrive in the residential neighbourhoods with large apartment buildings, a service centre, a school, and an enormous cemetery filled with white crosses. This is no longer the old town; this is where modern Sisimiut comes to life and where the city is growing. In the distance, we see the apartment buildings Søren mentioned yesterday, with large murals of a muskox or birds on the side walls.

We descend toward the museum. Several historical buildings are scattered across the grounds – a turf house from the early 20th century, a summer tent of the Inuit, a blacksmith’s shop from the late 19th century, the residence of the colonial manager, and the old blue church.

 

Blacksmith’s shop (late 19th century)

The blacksmith’s shop, as expected, houses a blacksmith’s tools, but also those of a carpenter. You could even buy malt there, as brewing your own beer was perfectly normal here.

When Sisimiut got a telegraph office in 1933, it was simply housed in the manager’s residence. We even discover a small classroom inside, complete with a photo of a timid group of students.

The turf house, as it turns out, is furnished inside with modern materials, giving the impression of more comfort than was likely present in the past. We count two sleeping platforms, so two families found shelter in this small space.

 

Turf house (early 20th century)

 

But it is the old blue church, the Bethel Church, that surprises us the most. Dating back to 1775, it is one of the oldest churches in Greenland. It is also the very first church that was both paid for and built by the Greenlanders themselves. They sent sixty barrels of whale blubber to Copenhagen and received in return a do-it-yourself kit for their church.

However, there remained – and still remains to this day – a tension between the new Christian faith and the traditional Inuit religion with its spirits and superstitions

We already know that Egede began Christianizing Greenland in 1722. He must have been quite successful because, less than a century later, by 1804, everyone in the vicinity of Sisimiut had been baptized. However, there remained – and still remains to this day – a tension between the new Christian faith and the traditional Inuit religion with its spirits and superstitions.

 

Churchgoers

School class

This is poignantly illustrated in the two video installations set up in the church. On one side, there is a shaman, and on the other, a Lutheran minister. By pressing a button, you can ask each of them about ten pre-programmed questions. On the screens, the shaman and the Lutheran minister then provide their answers, which can vary greatly.

According to the shaman, a couple who cannot have children is a problem that affects the entire community

One interesting question, for example, is what a man should do if his wife cannot become pregnant. For the shaman, this is a problem that concerns the entire community. Everyone must come together and build a house that is completely dark inside. Then, several men and women – including the desperate couple – retreat into this house and play with each other. If the woman conceives afterward, the problem is solved. If no child is conceived, the man is allowed to take a second wife.

According to the Lutheran minister, on the other hand, we do not know God’s plan. We can only pray to Him and lead an exemplary life, hoping that He will fulfil our wish for children. Taking a second wife is not permitted. If a man has more than one wife, he must take good care of them all, but he may only be intimate with one of them.

 

Davis Strait

Four thirty. The Fram turns its back on Sisimiut and once again heads into the Davis Strait. Ilulissat is now our next destination, which, we are told during the evening briefing, will be a highlight of our trip. This is where the famous Jakobshavn Glacier is located, the most productive glacier in the Northern Hemisphere. It alone produces 10 % of all the icebergs that come from Greenland. That corresponds to an annual ice mass of 35 billion tons – enough to cover all of Belgium with a 1,2-meter-thick layer of ice. It’s no wonder UNESCO declared this area a World Heritage site in 2004. Tomorrow, we will see for ourselves what this means for the region.

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Monday, August 21 | Ilulissat – Diskobugten – Icefjord

Upon waking, it's immediately clear – this area is unlike any other. As soon as we draw the curtains aside, we are greeted by a procession of icebergs. And that's even though our cabin is on the port side, the side facing the open sea. What’s happening on the starboard side is possibly even more breathtaking, as that's where the icebergs emerge from the fjord.

An army of icebergs floats like a white fortress belt off the coast

Diskobugten – Icebergs

On the foredeck, we can fully enjoy it. An army of icebergs floats like a white fortress belt off the coast. They are beautiful specimens, each one stunning, with dimensions that are dizzying. And this is just the visible part that rises above the water's surface. The variety in shape and colour is astonishing. Some icebergs look as if they were cut from a snowy landscape, others are pockmarked and covered with white megaliths, while still others seem to imitate the sharp peaks of Spitsbergen. Meltwater glistens in the light of the rising sun, trickling down steep ice walls or collecting in the occasional waterfall. With its play of light and shadow, the sun mercilessly reveals the brutal scars of calving and melting icebergs.

The many skerries require utmost caution. Add to that the unpredictable icebergs, and navigating your way to the harbour becomes quite a handful

With the nearby Icefjord, Ilulissat boasts a world-class attraction

Ilulissat

As enchanting as this spectacle may be, it is no easy task for the navigation officers on the bridge to sail here. The many skerries – small rocky islets typically found at the beginning of each fjord – require utmost caution. Add to that the unpredictable icebergs, and navigating your way to the harbour becomes quite a handful.

 

Ilulissat – Harbour

In the distance, Ilulissat gradually emerges from the morning mist. It is a sight that is now familiar to us, with all those homes in their picturesque colours scattered across the sloping hills of the coastal mountains. However, they cannot compare to the homogeneous charm of Sisimiut.

In all those years, skipper William has personally witnessed five times a huge iceberg capsize. You definitely don’t want to be too close when that happens

Diskobugten

Four thousand five hundred people live here. Traditionally, they rely solely on fishing for their livelihood. So much so that they have erected a monument for their most important export product – the halibut. Diskobugten, the enormous bay where we currently find ourselves, is indeed known for its nutrient-rich waters. The story is well known – the melting icebergs bring in minerals that nourish the plankton, which in turn serves as a food source for other species. As a result, marine mammals are abundant here. The Saqqaq knew this well when they settled here over four thousand years ago. A solitary humpback whale seems to be confirming this to us with its spout.

When an iceberg with long protrusions capsizes, it looks as if a cathedral is rising from the water

Diskobugten

Meanwhile, tourism has secured a firm place as a source of income alongside fishing. With the nearby Icefjord, Ilulissat boasts a world-class attraction. Fishermen have long capitalized on this by offering boat trips to the icebergs during the summer season.

 

Diskobugten

A short distance offshore, the Fram comes to a halt. In the relatively small harbour, there is no docking station available for us. When we go ashore, it will be by zodiac, which will drop us off at one of the piers in the harbour. The weather gods are favourably inclined towards us; the temperature is a remarkable 15 °C (59 °F). In these conditions, it feels almost tropical.

For small icebergs, this is not an issue, but large specimens cannot cross this threshold

Diskobugten

But that will be later. The Maya Saqqaq, the fishing sloop of skipper William, has come alongside. We climb aboard via the tender pit on deck 2 for our boat trip to the Icefjord. However, it doesn’t go smoothly. Diskobugten is not a sheltered inlet; it’s a vast bay where the waves have almost free rein. Even firmly strapped to the platform of the Fram, the Maya Saqqaq bobs up and down on the restless sea. Getting on safely is a matter of a perfectly timed jump and a firm sailor’s grip from our Filipino crew.

 

Diskobugten

It doesn’t take long before we approach the world-famous Icefjord, a couple of kilometres south of Ilulissat. The white fortress-like wall that we saw in the distance this morning can now be admired up close. But not too close, as that would be life-threatening. Skipper William knows what he’s doing; he has thirty years of experience with these boat trips. In all those years, he has personally witnessed five times a huge iceberg capsize. You definitely don’t want to be too close when that happens.

 

Diskobugten

Sometimes these giant icebergs are referred to as floating cathedrals, but even that imagery falls short of describing the giants we are now looking at. What’s more, we can hardly distinguish individual icebergs. It seems as if we are gazing at a continuous landscape of snow and ice, with the icebergs crowding closely together.

It seems as if we are gazing at a continuous landscape of snow and ice, with the icebergs crowding closely together

Diskobugten

At the base of this remarkable natural phenomenon lies the Jakobshavn Glacier, known to be the most productive glacier in the northern hemisphere. Its rapid descent contributes to this. Its speed fluctuates somewhat over the years but typically ranges from a spectacular 20 to 35 meters per day. The result is predictable: massive amounts of ice continuously calve off at the glacier front.

 

Diskobugten

 

Sometimes these are smaller icebergs – relatively speaking – sometimes their dimensions are truly staggering. On August 16, 2015, satellite images showed an ice mass of 12,5 km² that had broken free. An iceberg with a height of a kilometre is also not uncommon. If such an ice mass hits the bottom of the fjord or collides with another ice mass during calving, it can even cause a glacial earthquake that is detectable by seismographs all around the world.

The melting of the icebergs does not happen at the top due to the sun, as one might expect, but rather at the bottom due to the abrasive effect of the ocean current

Diskobugten

 

Once calved, all those icebergs drift slowly but surely out to sea. That is, at least, the intention. However, there is a problem. This Icefjord was gouged out by a glacier, and as is typical of glaciers, it has left a moraine at the fjord's mouth. While the fjord is generally about a thousand meters deep, the water at the mouth is only 250 meters deep. For small icebergs, this is not an issue, but large specimens cannot cross this threshold. They block the passage for all other icebergs, resulting in quite a significant traffic jam. The fjord is about 70 km long and is filled with icebergs along its entire length.

On August 16, 2015, satellite images showed an ice mass of 12,5 km² that had broken free

Diskobugten

William pauses the boat and pulls out a map of the area. The fjord is eight kilometres wide here, he explains, and we are approximately in the middle of it. The icebergs take several months to drift here after calving. They then remain stuck for five to seven months. The passage can open up once the icebergs blocking the way have melted sufficiently. However, this melting does not happen at the top due to the sun, as one might expect, but rather at the bottom due to the abrasive effect of the ocean current. You can confirm this for yourself by closely observing the glaciers at the waterline.

 

Diskobugten

Another possibility is that an iceberg collapses under the pressure from the icebergs behind it. A chunk then breaks off, and suddenly the way is clear. When this happens is unpredictable, but it certainly creates a very dangerous situation. Cruises must then be cancelled because the risks are too great.

 

Diskobugten

Most of the icebergs around us are upside down, as indicated by their clean, smooth surfaces. However, there are also icebergs with sharp peaks and rough surfaces. These have not yet turned upside down, but that will happen, William confidently predicts. When a rounded iceberg capsizes, it causes hardly any waves. However, when an iceberg with long protrusions capsizes, it looks as if a cathedral is rising from the water. William has witnessed this happen with his own eyes about five times.

Once freed, the icebergs continue their journey unhindered. Not southward as one might expect, but northward along the west coast of Greenland

Diskobugten

Once freed, the icebergs continue their journey unhindered. Not southward as one might expect, but northward along the west coast of Greenland. This is the direction in which the West Greenland Current propels them. Only at the northern tip of Baffin Bay are they first deflected westward and then southward. There, they are caught by the warmer Labrador Current, which ultimately carries them southward toward a slow melting demise. The largest icebergs do not succumb until they reach around the 40th parallel – approximately the latitude of New York and Madrid. The Titanic can attest to the dangers they pose to shipping.

 

Diskobugten

This is one of the warmest days of the year, according to William. The air temperature is a comfortable 10 °C (50 °F). However, we do not feel it much due to the cold wind blowing towards us from among the icebergs. Moreover, it has been quite cold all year round; there will be no berries this year, he insists.

To encounter a climate denier here, in this land of melting glaciers and starving polar bears, is a shocking experience for us

Diskobugten

William does not believe that CO₂ is the cause of climate warming. He admits it will get warmer; he has no doubt about that. But he thinks this evolution has purely natural causes. More specifically, he refers to astronomical factors, such as the changing angle of the Earth's axis in relation to the ecliptic. To encounter a climate denier here, in this land of melting glaciers and starving polar bears, is a shocking experience for us.

A quick lunch aboard the Fram is enough because we want to head out again as soon as possible. Once again, the unparalleled Icefjord is our destination, but this time from a very different perspective. A zodiac takes us ashore at the harbour of Ilulissat, and a shuttle bus then transports us to the Isfjord Centre.

With its curved forms, the Isfjord Centre aims to evoke the flight of the snowy owl

Isfjord Centre

It is a hypermodern building, which only opened in July 2021. With its curved forms, it aims to evoke the flight of the snowy owl. You can wander through a permanent exhibition about the story of ice, but you can also walk on the roof to enjoy the exceptional panorama.

 

Cottongrass

The real centrepiece is, of course, the Icefjord itself. For now, it is still largely hidden behind the hills. Eagerly, we begin the walk of about one and a half kilometres. The comfortable boardwalk leads us through a wide, green valley where, in a distant past, a glacier sought its way to the sea. Here and there, flowers bask in the warm summer sun – among them white Arctic mouse-ears, blue Giesecke's harebells, Arctic wintergreens, and exotic daisies. Fluffy catkins of Arctic willows stand proudly upright among the blades of grass. White tufts of cotton grass sway gently back and forth with the wind.

It is a stunning sight, the lush tundra vegetation with many erratic boulders and behind that a bright white horizon of snow castles

Isfjord

The boardwalk takes us further down. Gradually, the Icefjord comes into view from behind the hills. It is a stunning sight, the lush tundra vegetation with many erratic boulders and behind that a bright white horizon of snow castles. As we approach closer, the perspective changes, and the water surface comes into view. It is now clear that this is not an Arctic snowy landscape, but a collection of icebergs jostling shoulder to shoulder, eager to head toward the exit. However, it must be said that it is often difficult to distinguish where one iceberg ends and another begins.

 

Typically, the Jakobshavn Glacier moves down a spectacular 20 to 35 meters per day

Pale-bellied brent geese

A flock of pale-bellied brent geese has landed on one of the flat stretches of ice along the water’s edge. The white spot on their neck and the white underside of their tail make them easily recognizable. They may have gathered to travel together to their wintering grounds on the east coast of the United States. Estuaries like this, with a brackish mix of fresh and saltwater and a clear tidal difference, are their favourite habitat.

 

It is so surreal to walk through the pristine summer tundra landscape, with all those icebergs almost within reach

Isfjord

To call this sun-drenched panorama magical is no exaggeration. It is so surreal to walk through the pristine summer tundra landscape, with all those icebergs almost within reach. But that is just an illusion. Due to their enormous size, they appear to be so close.

At the very bottom, the boardwalk ends at a sturdy wooden staircase. A sign urges us not to go onto the beach due to the extreme danger that lurks there. A suddenly calving iceberg can easily generate tsunami waves. If you happen to be near the beach at that moment, it could end fatally for you.

At the top, it seems as if we are on a grandstand with a spectacular parade of icebergs at our feet

Isfjord

We climb up the slope via the staircase. At the top, it seems as if we are on a grandstand with a spectacular parade of icebergs at our feet. The view is downright fabulous. You can’t get enough of it. As far as we can see to the east, the icebergs are waiting their turn in tightly packed lines. In fact, these are no longer separate icebergs; you could almost speak of a long, compact ice mass. It’s as if the Jakobshavn glacier extends a seventy-kilometre-long icy white tongue into the ocean. The Icefjord has certainly earned its name.

It’s as if the Jakobshavn glacier extends a seventy-kilometre-long icy white tongue into the ocean

Isfjord

Where the water of the fjord is visible, it appears as small, dark ponds that seem to float on the ice. As if the roles are reversed. But that is, of course, not the case. Ice is lighter than water and thus floats on the water. Fortunately, our German geologist Steffen told us yesterday. If ice were heavier than water, it would sink to the seabed. More and more ice would accumulate down there, causing all the oceans to freeze from the bottom up.

It defies imagination to try to visualize what is happening underwater here. About six-sevenths of these ice masses are underwater. Not nine-tenths as is sometimes claimed, because this is relatively young ice. It hasn’t had time to expel all the air bubbles.

We know this ice is young because it is white. White means that the sun’s rays hitting the ice cannot penetrate but are instead reflected back as white light. However, over time, if all the air is expelled from the ice, it becomes denser, and the sun’s rays can penetrate. But that is a difficult journey requiring a lot of energy. Blue light has enough energy to make its way through the ice and eventually emerge again. Other colours, such as red, lose all their energy and are absorbed by the ice. Therefore, blue ice is old ice, was Steffen’s conclusion.

More than four thousand years ago, the Saqqaq settled here, knowing that Diskobugten offers a seemingly inexhaustible supply of food

Cottongrass		Giesecke's harebell
Arctic wintergreen		Saxifrage

Undoubtedly, the Saqqaq also appreciated the charms of this area, for more than four thousand years ago, they settled here, knowing that Diskobugten offers a seemingly inexhaustible supply of food. We know this from archaeological finds.

The Norsemen were also pleased when they discovered this region during their travels in the summer thaw. They did not see marine mammals as a food source but as suppliers of lucrative products. From walruses, they obtained ivory; from seals, pelts; and from whales, a multitude of materials.

 

Arctic willow

Initially, the Norsemen had the land to themselves. When the Thule appeared from the north, this did not immediately lead to conflicts. For a time, both parties peacefully shared the same hunting grounds. There was even a trade agreement. But over time, their mutual understanding deteriorated. Norse written sources mention battles and bloodshed.

 

Pale-bellied brent geese

With great effort, we pull ourselves away from this epic setting and return to the Isfjord Centre. A flock of pale-bellied brent geese flutters loudly quacking above our heads. In contrast, a solitary raven takes it easy and soars towards a rocky outcrop high against the hill. These ravens are strange birds. They are one of the few bird species that winter in the polar regions. Yet, they do not have white feathers but black ones. In a snowy landscape, you can see them from miles away. In Inuit mythology, they have secured an important place. According to them, it is Father Raven who created humans and all life on Earth.

Ravens are strange birds. They are one of the few bird species that winter in the polar regions. Yet, they do not have white feathers but black ones

Arctic mouse-ear
Sled dogs		Raven

Next to the parking lot is Dog Field, an expansive grassy area where dozens of sled dogs spend their summer. Their owners have chained them here. They have a kennel and some space to move around, but they cannot touch each other.

Just before six, the Fram departs. Not for open sea, but for the Sullorsuaq Strait, the narrow passage between Disko Island and Greenland. This gives us some respite; we will sail through the calm waters of this narrow strait for much of the night. However, that doesn’t mean there won’t be icebergs appearing. For the navigation officers on the bridge, vigilance remains essential.

What truly makes Disko Island unique is the presence of pure iron – not iron in the form of iron ore

Disko Island was familiar territory for the Norsemen; they used it as a summer camp for hunting and fishing. What truly makes Disko Island unique is the presence of pure iron – not iron in the form of iron ore. Pure iron almost always comes from meteorites. Almost always. Currently, Disko Island is the only place on Earth where you can find pure iron of terrestrial origin. And it’s certainly not a small piece; the chunk of iron buried here weighs no less than 22 tons.

We are now definitively leaving Greenland behind, expedition leader Maria states during the evening briefing. It will take us two days to cross Baffin Bay and reach the Canadian Arctic archipelago. There, we will head toward Pond Inlet, a small Inuit community on the northern coast of Baffin Island. Our passports will also be checked there, and customs clearance for Canada will take place. Also important – tonight, we will set the clock back another hour. That’s already the third time. The time difference with Belgium is now five hours.

The weather for tomorrow looks good. There will be some wind around noon, but it won’t be as severe as it was Saturday night. And what’s more important, Maria adds, is that north of King William Island, the sea ice has almost completely disappeared. Where the ice chart from August 15 reported ice concentrations of 70 to 90 %, today, six days later, there is nothing to be seen.

Thus, the main goal of our journey comes back into focus: the mythical Northwest Passage, the maritime route on which so many explorers have met their fate

Sullorsuaq Strait

Thus, the main goal of our journey comes back into focus: the mythical Northwest Passage, the maritime route on which so many explorers have met their fate. One of the most famous among them is undoubtedly Henry Hudson. A man whose birth and death are shrouded in mystery, as our historian Benjamin explains. In the early 17th century, he suddenly appeared on the world stage, quickly became famous, but vanished less than four years later without a trace.

Perhaps it was even possible to sail directly over the top of the world – over the North Pole, that is

While the Spaniards and the Portuguese controlled the southern trade routes, the English and the Dutch were locked in a fierce struggle at that time to seize control of the northern trade routes. For with a sun that shines day and night for three months, the ice in the far north must melt every year. That was at least the prevailing belief back then. It had to be possible to reach the lucrative markets of the Far East via the polar regions. Perhaps it was even possible to sail directly over the top of the world – over the North Pole, that is.

The year 1607 is when we first hear about Henry Hudson. He was likely in his forties at that time. The English Muscovy Company tasked him with exploring the Northeast Passage – not the Northwest Passage. This meant he had to find a passage to China north of Siberia. He reached Greenland and sailed further north to Svalbard, but ice forced him to return to England empty-handed. However, he returned with reports about the abundance of whales along the coasts of Spitsbergen. This lured numerous whalers to the far north, nearly leading to the extinction of the Greenland whale.

In 1608, Hudson tried his luck again. This time he would attempt to find a passage between Svalbard and Nova Zembla. But he couldn’t get further than the Kara Sea southeast of Nova Zembla. The ice proved to be impenetrable, and once again, he was forced to return to England.

However, this time he did not return. Defying his instructions, he turned his course from east to west, boldly crossed the Atlantic Ocean, and began to explore the coasts of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia

Meanwhile, the Dutch East India Company had appeared on the world stage. It was the first joint-stock company with freely tradable shares. It would grow to become the largest trading company in the history of mankind. At its peak, this VOC achieved a market value of 78 million guilders. Converted to 2022, that is about 7 000 000 000 000 euros. That is more – Benjamin has just calculated it for us – than the market value in 2022 of Apple, Microsoft, Alphabet (Google), and Amazon combined. The VOC had a standing army and a navy, concluded treaties with nations, minted its own currency, and administered justice.

 

Sullorsuaq Strait

That this VOC watched with great interest the attempts to find a faster and cheaper route to the Far East is obvious. So, they hired Hudson and instructed him in 1609 to once again search for the Northeast Passage. Hudson did as he was asked, but for the third time he found that the ice past Spitsbergen made any passage impossible.

What they did not know was that this body of water, covering 1,2 million km², forms a perfect trap for explorers – it looks like an open ocean, but it is a closed bay

However, this time he did not return. Defying his instructions, he turned his course from east to west, boldly crossed the Atlantic Ocean, and began to explore the coasts of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia. If the Northeast Passage was not going to work, then he would search for the Northwest Passage, he must have thought. In Nova Scotia, he clashed with the local Mi’kmaq. Further south, he encountered a river that the local Mohawk called The River That Flows in Two Directions due to the tidal effect. Hudson named it the North River; today we call this river the Hudson.

Hudson sailed up the river for a while before returning to England, where he was promptly arrested. The British were interested in his voyage log. However, Hudson apparently anticipated this, as he had already handed the valuable document to the Dutch ambassador beforehand.

The Dutch seized Hudson's voyage to assert their claims to the area. At the mouth of the Hudson, they established the trading post of New Amsterdam on a peninsula that the local Mohawk called Manaháhtaan. Later, the city would fall into British hands and be renamed New York.

 

Sullorsuaq Strait

The British now had had enough. Hudson was forbidden to ever sail under a foreign flag again. And certainly not under the Dutch flag. He went into service with the British East India Company and set out again in 1610 to find the Northwest Passage.

This time luck was on Hudson's side, as on August 2, he reached a vast sea that we now call Hudson Bay. Excitement ran high on board, as this was supposed to be the sought-after passage. What they did not know was that this body of water, covering 1,2 million km², forms a perfect trap for explorers – it looks like an open ocean, but it is a closed bay.

Hudson began to explore the east coast of the bay, but it gradually became clear that this was not the Northwest Passage. To make matters worse, they became trapped in ice in November in James Bay. They were forced to abandon the ship and take refuge on land for six months.

On May 24, Hudson, his teenage son, and several crew members were left in a small boat at sea

In the spring of 1611, they returned aboard the ship. Hudson wanted to explore the bay further in the hope of still finding the passage. However, most of the crew had had enough and wanted to go home. This led to mutiny. What exactly happened is a matter of speculation, as we only know the version from the mutineers. The fact is that on May 24, Hudson, his teenage son, and several crew members were left in a small boat at sea. Since then, nothing has been heard of Hudson and his companions. Search expeditions yielded no results.

 

Sullorsuaq Strait

It was not until the 1970s that it became known that the oral tradition of the Inuit contained stories about an old man with a long white beard and a boy who came ashore in a small wooden boat. Initially, the Inuit believed they were dealing with a spirit, as they had never seen white people before. The old man died shortly thereafter, but the boy grew up among the Inuit.

The oral tradition of the Inuit contained stories about an old man with a long white beard and a boy who came ashore in a small wooden boat

In the past, such Inuit stories were met with scepticism, but nowadays they are taken seriously. This is because it has since been revealed that the Inuit also knew exactly where the wrecks of the Erebus and Terror, the ships from the ill-fated Franklin expedition, were located. But that is a story Benjamin is saving for another session.

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Jaak Palmans
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