Walking through mythology

Cyprus | Anno 2023

 

Monday 24 April | Limassol – Amathus – Kourion – Paphos – Limassol

Thursday 27 April | Limassol – Paphos

 

 

Monday 24 April | Limassol – Amathus – Kourion – Paphos – Limassol

At lightning speed, a sparrow darts into the breakfast room. Boldly, it lands on one of the buffet tables and struts around among the dishes. After a quick inspection, it decides that the feta cheese is today’s delicacy of choice. Then, just as swiftly as it arrived, it disappears through the open window. Such visits will become a regular sight during our breakfast, but they won’t spoil the fun.

Once again, a cloudless blue sky holds the promise of a beautiful day. We can’t deny we’ve been incredibly lucky with the weather. And to top it off, driver Sean has thoroughly cleaned the bus, making it the cherry on the cake.

 

Pomegranate bush in bloom

Almond tree

Even our guide Antonía has a little extra in store for us, namely a brief visit to the nearby Amathus. On the way to the site, she points out a pomegranate tree, where beautiful orange-red blossoms share the branches with tiny red fruits. The almond tree on the opposite side, however, must make do with its rather unremarkable dark green fruits.

Amathus was one of the most important centres for the worship of Aphrodite

Amathus – Roman baths (front), forum (middle)

Amathus likely originated in the 11th century BCE, when Greek colonists landed near present-day Paphos. The original inhabitants were forced to leave, but that didn’t stop them from developing Amathus into a flourishing trading city on this site. The Phoenicians quickly settled here as well.

Over the centuries, foreign rulers came and went in Cyprus – Assyrians, Egyptians, and Persians. Then trouble arose. The Persians had unsettled matters with the Greeks. The Greek city-states of Cyprus formed a united front, resisting fiercely. Only Amathus refused to join, even when King Onesilos of Salamis personally came to request cooperation. The people of Amathus hadn’t forgotten how the Greeks had driven them out long ago. Displeased, Onesilos laid siege to the city, but it came to nothing. The Greeks ultimately failed against the Persians, and Onesilos paid for his resistance with his life.

The people of Amathus hadn’t forgotten how the Greeks had driven them out long ago

Amathus – Forum

But that’s not where the story ends, Antonía tells us. The people of Amathus were still outraged by the fact that Onesilos had attacked their city. According to Herodotus, after Onesilos was killed, they beheaded his body, placed his head on a stake, and displayed it at the eastern gate of the city. A strange thing happened afterward: a swarm of bees settled in Onesilos’ skull, causing great concern. What could this mean? High priests were consulted, and their verdict was unanimous. Onesilos had actually been a hero and deserved to be buried properly, with all his body parts intact. And so it was done – the head was reunited with the body, and peace was restored.

Astarte transformed into Hathor. Hathor turned into Aphrodite, Aphrodite evolved into Isis. This illustrates how foreign cultures influenced Cyprus

The Phoenicians had brought the cult of their fertility goddess Astarte to the island. When the Egyptians took control, Astarte gradually transformed into Hathor. You can still recognise her image on some capitals. Under Greek influence, Hathor turned into Aphrodite, and again under Egyptian influence, Aphrodite evolved into Isis. This illustrates how foreign cultures influenced Cyprus and how they gradually blended into one another.

 

Water pipe

The fact is that Amathus was one of the most important centres for the worship of Aphrodite. You can find the ruins of her temple on the adjoining hill. However, there’s not much left to see, and the place is teeming with snakes. So, climbing up doesn’t seem like a good idea, as Antonía seems to suggest.

We walk across the forum to the Roman baths, a familiar sight in a Roman city. However, the baths located a bit further along are quite rare. They date back to the 4th century BCE, from the Hellenistic period. Simple mosaics made of two-toned natural stones decorated the floors there.

The baths from the 4th century BCE are quite rare, as they date from the Hellenistic period

Hellenistic baths

Limestone tub (copy)

You can't miss it – the enormous stone tub standing among the ruins. However, it's just a copy. The original was taken by the French in 1867 and now resides in the Louvre. They even had to break down a museum wall for it, Antonía remarks, slightly irritated that this piece of heritage left the country. The basin was carved from a single piece of limestone, had a diameter of 1.85 meters, and weighed a hefty 14 tons. Not exactly something you'd move easily.

A system of pipes appears to have brought water down from the hills behind the city.

 

Caper bush in bloom

Rosemary bush in bloom

A flowering caper bush, that’s something we haven’t seen before. The blossoms are surprisingly large, with white petals and long, purple-white stamens, which eventually give rise to the small, tangy fruits. The rosemary bushes are also in bloom, with smaller, light purple flowers.

It's half past nine when we continue our journey toward Kourion. Not via the scenic coastal road as planned, since it’s blocked due to an accident, but along the somewhat duller highway further inland, Sean apologises. Along the way, we pass through Erimi, a place where an important man lives, he adds with a grin – Sean himself, of course. But it’s also the place where wine vessels were discovered, proving that wine was produced here as far back as 5,500 years ago.

Today, Kourion is a very extensive site, featuring a basilica, a forum, a stadium for 6,000 spectators, and more

It was likely as early as the 14th or 13th century BCE that the first Greek colonists settled in Kourion. The location was strategic, perched on a hill overlooking the sea, and the land was highly fertile. However, it wasn’t until a thousand years later, during the Hellenistic and Roman periods, that the city truly flourished. Today, the site is vast, featuring a basilica, a forum, a stadium for 6,000 spectators, and more. Unfortunately, due to time constraints, we’ll only be able to explore a small portion of it.

For both school trips and tourists, Kourion is a must-see destination. So, it's no surprise that when we arrive shortly after ten, there are six large buses in the parking lot. The sound of helicopters in the air subtly reminds us that we are actually on British territory, namely within the Western Sovereign Base Area of Akrotiri.

 

Coastal plain near Kourion

The year 365 CE was a catastrophic one for Kourion. The prosperous city was struck by a devastating earthquake, causing widespread destruction. A certain Mr. Eustolios must have been quite wealthy, judging by the grand residence he built for himself on the ruins of the destroyed city. Initially, he constructed a house, and shortly after, in the early 5th century, he added a bathhouse. Together, these buildings made up a complex with 35 rooms. Today, this impressive site is one of the major attractions of Kourion.

 

Most of its fame the House of Eustolios owes to its stunning floor mosaics

Kourion – House of Eustolios

Most of its fame the House of Eustolios owes to its stunning floor mosaics. To protect them from the elements, the entire house is covered. The mosaic patterns are largely geometric, but occasionally also feature figurative designs. Antonía draws our attention to a medallion depicting a young woman. In her right hand, she holds a measuring rod that was used by architects, corresponding to a Roman foot. This figure is Ktisis, who personified the creation of the world.

Ktisis personifies the creation of the world. In her hand she holds a standard used by architects, which corresponded to a Roman foot

Ktisis

Elsewhere, one of the inscriptions in the mosaics explicitly identifies Eustolios as a Christian. By this time, the Greek alphabet had already evolved from the Phoenician script, but texts were still written entirely in uppercase letters without spaces between words. Interestingly, the name of Christ is mentioned here, perhaps for the very first time within the Roman Empire.

Other symbols also point to the Christian beliefs of the inhabitants, such as the frequent depiction of a fish, or ichthus in classical Greek. This word could be read as an acronym for Iesous Christos, Theou Huios, Soter, meaning Jesus Christ, God's Son, Saviour. For the early Christians, it served as a secret symbol through which they could recognise and connect with fellow believers.

You could hardly imagine a better spot for an open-air theatre

Kourion – Theatre

Further on stands the theatre from the 2nd century BCE. It's not particularly large, accommodating about three thousand spectators, but its location is unmatched. You could hardly imagine a better spot for an open-air theatre. As a spectator, you would not only gaze out over the orchestra but also over the fields at the foot of the hill and even across the blue sea to the horizon.

In the 3rd century, the Romans – always in search of spectacle – removed the front two rows of seats and installed protective fencing, allowing for events with gladiators and wild animals. Later, these violent entertainments were abandoned. In 1961, the theatre underwent thorough restoration so that it could be used for performances once again. While the restoration was a good idea, given the theatre's perfect acoustics, it's a bit regrettable, as the modern interventions somewhat detract from its authenticity.

Cesnola, an American, managed to ship 35,000 ancient finds from Cyprus to his homeland

House of Eustolios – Frigidarium with hypocaust

Like many Cypriots, it bothers Antonía that a significant number of Cypriot artefacts have been shipped to the USA. This is largely due to Luigi Palma di Cesnola, an American who distinguished himself during the Civil War. As a reward, he was appointed consul in Cyprus in 1865, an opportunity that this amateur archaeologist seized with both hands. For over ten years, he indulged in often illegal excavations across the island, eventually managing to ship 35,000 objects back to his homeland. Most of these were purchased by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, where they are still known as the Cesnola Collection of Cypriote Antiquities. Today, no fewer than four galleries are dedicated to these Cypriot finds, Antonía concludes with obvious displeasure.

We are now driving westward along a coastline of steep cliffs. Paragliding is immensely popular here, though at the moment, there isn't a single glider in the air. We pass Episkopi Cantonment, the administrative centre of the British base, home to some 9,000 residents, including 3,000 soldiers.

When it comes to the Greek pantheon, there's never a dull moment. Take Ouranos, the very first supreme god, the personification of the sky. His partner was Gaia, the earth, from whom all life emerges. As the sky constantly covers the earth, so did Ouranos cover Gaia continually. Naturally, this resulted in children – many children, in fact – Titans, Cyclopes, and more. Eventually, Gaia grew tired of it. She persuaded one of her sons, Kronos, to help bring an end to this ceaseless cycle.

Where Ouranos' severed parts touched the water, the sea began to foam violently

Petra tou Romiou

Kronos was not one for half measures. With a sickle – made of diamond, no less – he severed his father’s genitals and hurled them into the sea. But then something miraculous happened. Where Ouranos' severed parts touched the water, the sea began to foam violently. From that foam emerged a woman, more beautiful than the world had ever seen. Aphrodite was her name, and she stood on a shell pulled by dolphins – a scene immortalised in an inimitable way by Botticelli, albeit with the Roman goddess Venus in the leading role.

Any attempt to depict Aphrodite in stone was doomed to fail, for no representation could ever capture her beauty

Coincidentally, all this took place on the south coast of Cyprus. Sean and Antonía are well aware of the precise spot where the divine seed met the ocean water, so that we can observe this special location with the appropriate reverence. From a parking lot, we gaze down upon the Rock of Aphrodite, Petra tou Romiou, as the site is now known. For a moment, confusion sets in, as there are several rocks scattered along the coast. At such an important location, it is crucial to identify the one and only Rock of Aphrodite. Fortunately, Antonía can point out with 100% certainty where it all happened thousands of years ago.

As we continue westward, Antonía gestures vaguely toward the hills on our right. Somewhere up there is the largest sanctuary dedicated to Aphrodite on the island. Interestingly, there wasn’t a statue of the goddess, only a conical stone. According to the ancients, any attempt to depict Aphrodite in stone was doomed to fail, for no representation could ever capture her beauty.

From historian Herodotus, we learn what went on in those days, though from a modern perspective, it might seem less than ideal. The temple was home to priestesses who were required to prostitute themselves to any pilgrim who came to the sanctuary. The money they earned went directly to the temple. Only after two years of temple service were these women permitted to marry. As for Aphrodite herself, she remained a symbol of chastity and marital fidelity, despite her many affairs. After each indiscretion, she would simply bathe in the sea and regain her virginity.

One of the highlights is the Tombs of the Kings. However, no actual kings were buried there

Doric columns support the architraves, and triglyphs adorn the friezes – it feels as if we’ve stepped into a Greek temple

Paphos – King's Tombs – Tomb 3

For seven hundred years, Paphos served as the capital of Cyprus, first during the Hellenistic period under the Egyptian Ptolemies, and later from 58 BCE under Roman rule. This brought about a long period of relative peace and stability, which in turn led to unprecedented prosperity in the coastal city. Paphos became known for its grand temples, public buildings, palaces, and luxurious mansions. However, natural disasters in the form of earthquakes occasionally disrupted the city's growth, and from the 7th century onward, the region also faced attacks from Arab raiders targeting the coastal areas.

 

Tombe 3 – Grafkamer met loculi

Tombe 3

The prosperity of Paphos has left an impressive mark on the vast archaeological site of Kato Paphos, one of the most important in Cyprus. In 1980, it was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site. One of its highlights is the Tombs of the Kings. However, as Antonía stresses, no actual kings were buried there – only wealthy citizens who could afford such grand burial tombs. These tombs were used throughout the Hellenistic period and well into Roman times. Over a span of seven centuries, from 323 BCE to 395 CE, around a hundred aristocrats were laid to rest in these elaborate tombs.

 

Tomb 3 – Underground Branches

The tombs consist of underground chambers carved into the soft rock. In terms of architecture, they resemble imitations of above-ground houses, much like the catacombs of Egyptian Alexandria. This is not surprising, considering that Paphos was under the rule of the Egyptian Ptolemies for two centuries.

Access to the underground complex was granted via a dromos, a grand staircase

Tomb 4 – Dromos

Access to the underground complex was granted via a dromos, a grand staircase. We descend into tomb 3, one of the restored tombs, and find ourselves in an open atrium surrounded by a colonnade connecting to various burial chambers. Doric columns support the architraves, and triglyphs adorn the friezes – it feels as if we’ve stepped into a Greek temple.

A water well symbolised the transition from the upper world to the underworld

Each tomb belonged to a specific family. In the lightly vaulted burial chambers, we find elongated, shallow pits. These are the loculi, the places where the deceased were buried. Sometimes a small niche has been carved into the wall for a child. There are hardly any artefacts left; grave robbers have stolen nearly everything of value. The frescoes on the walls are also gone, largely due to the effects of moisture.

 

Tomb 1

A water well was an essential feature of every tomb, not to quench the thirst of the deceased but to symbolise the transition from the upper world to the underworld. According to Greek mythology, these two realms were separated by the River Styx. It was the god Hermes who brought the soul to the riverbank, and the ferryman Charon who transported the soul across the river to Hades' realm.

However, this service was not free; Charon demanded payment of one obol for each crossing. It’s no surprise that such coins have been found in burial chambers. This way, the relatives were assured that their loved one would be able to pay for the crossing and would never return.

It was the ferryman Charon who transported the soul across the Styx River to Hades' realm. However, this service was not free

Tomb 8 – Central Structure

Terrible torments could await you in that underworld, but it was also possible that a life of peace and freedom awaited you there, depending on how you had lived. The presence of the water well subtly reminded the living of this. Additionally, it had a ritual function, as every attendee had to purify themselves by washing their hands after a burial. This practice, by the way, is still observed today in Cyprus during Orthodox Christian funerals.

 

Tomb 8 – Loculi in the side wall

Tomb 8 – Loculi in a burial chamber

The structure of tomb 8 is completely different. There is no atrium here; instead, in the centre stands a square rock around which a corridor runs. Looking down on the tomb, one can't help but think of the rock churches of Lalibela in Ethiopia. Below, just like in tomb 3, several burial chambers open onto the corridor. But in the central rock, burial niches have also been carved out. Was this to save space, to accommodate more bodies?

Just before noon we continue our journey. Banana plantations, avocado plantations, and cacti appear along the road. It reminds us that Paphos, of all the cities in Cyprus, enjoys the most hours of sunshine.

Proclaiming God's message in Cyprus – that was the mission Paul and Barnabas received from the Holy Spirit in 45 CE. In the New Testament, particularly in Acts 13, we can read how this unfolded. The duo landed in Salamis – the place where Barnabas would eventually be buried, as we know – and preached from east to west. How they travelled exactly is not known, but it is likely that their journey took them through Kition, Amathus, and Kourion, the very places we explored yesterday and today.

Cyprus became the first country in the world to be governed by a Christian ruler

Paphos – St Paul’s Pillar

Eventually, they arrived in Paphos, the island's capital and the residence of the Roman proconsul. Converting this man would be a significant victory. However, Elymas, a Jewish high priest and advisor to the proconsul, mocked Paul's teachings and openly ridiculed him. Paul could not let this go. Supported by the Holy Spirit, he punished the scoundrel with blindness – though only temporarily, as Paul wanted to show his kind heart. The proconsul was so impressed by this that he immediately converted. Thus, Cyprus became the first country in the world to be governed by a Christian ruler.

According to local oral tradition, Paul was whipped 39 times in Paphos

But there's more. According to local oral tradition, Paul was whipped 39 times in Paphos. If that's true, it's likely that crafty Elymas was behind it – no need to draw a picture to understand that. However, what's strange is that Acts 13 doesn’t mention any form of punishment in Paphos. On the other hand, in 2 Corinthians 11, Paul makes it clear that he was often punished by Jews during his travels for preaching. He claims that this resulted in receiving the forty lashes minus one multiple times. Whether this happened in Paphos is left unclear.

In any case, if Paul was ever whipped in Paphos, the locals are quite sure where it happened. The pillar to which he was supposedly tied still has a stump standing after all those years. Fortunately, there's a sign beside it labelled St Paul’s Pillar, because otherwise, with all those pillars, you might end up looking at the wrong pillar. Just imagine how foolish that would be.

 

Paphos – Chrysopolitissa Basilica

The pillar in question is located right next to the ruins of the massive Chrysopolitissa Basilica. No larger church was ever built in Cyprus. It dates back to the 4th century and boasted seven aisles. However, during their raids in the 7th century, the Arabs decided to demolish the building. In the 15th century, the much smaller Agia Kyriaki Church was built on the ruins, and it is still used today by Anglican, Lutheran, and Greek Orthodox Christians.

It must have been quite something to live in those grand mansions, amid all that luxury, with a view of the sea

Sean takes us back to Kato Paphos, because we're not done yet with Nea Paphos, as the archaeological site is now called. While the Tombs of the Kings are major attractions, the true crowd-pleasers are the famous mosaics in houses like those of Dionysos, Theseus, and Aion. These are not the names of the former inhabitants but rather references to the most remarkable mosaics found there. These mosaics were only discovered in 1962, quite by accident, when a farmer was ploughing his field.

It must have been quite something to live in those grand mansions back then – more like palaces, really – amid all that luxury, with a view of the sea, as this part of the site stretches over a small peninsula, offering sea views to both the left and right.

Perhaps the most famous of these houses is the House of Dionysos. It's certainly the largest, covering an area of 2,000 square meters. Over a quarter of that – 556 square meters, to be exact – is covered in mosaics. The building dates from the late 2nd century, but its existence was relatively short, as it was destroyed in 342, not by the Arabs this time, but by an earthquake. This is also the house where the 2,484 silver tetradrachms were discovered, which we admired yesterday at the Cyprus Museum in Nicosia.

The previously unknown mosaic dated from the Hellenistic period, making it five hundred years older than any other mosaic in this building

House of Dionysos – Sea monster Scylla with fish tail and dog heads

All the mosaics remain in their original location, with one exception that has been raised to a higher level, according to Antonía. This was due to damage caused by Turkish bombings in 1974, which necessitated repairs. During those restoration efforts, an unknown mosaic was discovered about a meter lower than the others. It was a fortunate accident, as this mosaic dated back to around 300 BCE, making it from the Hellenistic period – 500 years older than the other mosaics in the building. It is extremely rare, as very few mosaics from that time have survived.

This unique mosaic is somewhat more primitive in execution than the others, featuring white, red, and black pebbles of equal size. The image depicts Scylla, a sea monster who was part woman, part dog, and part fish. She was a true nightmare for sailors, sinking many ships out of frustration with her fate. This is evident from the ship's mast she carelessly holds in her left hand.

Walking through this Roman villa is like walking through classical mythology

Narcissus with the reflection of his face in the water

Walking through this Roman villa is like walking through classical mythology. We recognise Narcissus, who falls in love with his own reflection when he sees it mirrored in the crystal-clear water of a sacred pond. Even the reflection itself is beautifully depicted, as Antonía proudly points out.

In a mosaic composed of nine smaller panels, the personification of the seasons is represented in the four corners. Starting from the top left and moving clockwise, we see summer, spring, autumn, and winter.

In the tablinum the master of the house would receive his clients and guests, with beautiful frescoes on the walls and room-spanning mosaics on the floor

Tablinum – Triumph of Dionysos

In a Roman villa, the tablinum was a fairly large room where the master of the house received his clients and guests. It was a showpiece, decorated with beautiful frescoes on the walls and room-spanning mosaics on the floor. Only the mosaics have stood the test of time.

At the centre is the depiction of the Triumph of Dionysos, which gives the house its current name. Dionysos returns victorious from a war in India on his chariot, bringing slaves and panthers as spoils of war. In the corners of the mosaic, the warrior twin brothers Castor and Pollux are depicted, each holding a spear in one hand and the reins of their horse in the other.

 

Around the impluvium, beautiful hunting scenes are depicted on three sides

House of Dionysos – Impluvium – Hunting scenes

In the centre of the house was the atrium, a space with an open roof through which sunlight and also rain could enter. Hence the presence of an impluvium, a shallow basin in the middle of the floor. There, the rainwater was collected, ready for use. Around that impluvium, beautiful hunting scenes are depicted on three sides. We see a hunter fighting a panther, a hunting dog biting the leg of a wild donkey, and several animals fleeing – a bear, a wild boar, some mouflons, a tiger, and more.

Bizarre love stories come to the forefront, and classical mythology certainly has no shortage of them

House of Dionysos – Triclinium (dining room)

The panels on the fourth side of the impluvium, on the other hand, are dedicated to four mythological themes. They are considered among the most beautiful of the villa – with a slight tendency towards sensationalism, they are referred to in the accompanying texts as the Fab Four. Here, bizarre love stories come to the forefront, and classical mythology certainly has no shortage of them.

One such mosaic depicts Pyramos and Thisbe. In the background, we see a tiger with the bloodied veil of Thisbe. Pyramos mistakenly believes that his beloved Thisbe has been torn apart by that beast. Overcome with grief, he takes his own life. A tragic twist that inevitably brings to mind Romeo and Juliet.

The panels on the fourth side of the impluvium are considered among the most beautiful in the villa – they are sometimes referred to as the Fab Four.

House of Dionysos – Impluvium – Thisbe and Pyramos

Poseidon and Amymone

The adventures of Poseidon and Amymone are also featured. It’s a bizarre soap opera; the 50 daughters of the king must marry the 50 sons of his brother. One of them, Amymone, escapes this fate, while her 49 sisters murder their husbands on their wedding night.

In the end, Daphne's father saved her by transforming her into a laurel tree

And what are we to make of Apollo's unrequited love for Daphne? The bold god relentlessly pursued the poor nymph, no matter how often she said no. Nowadays, we would call that stalking. In the end, Daphne's father saved her by transforming her into a laurel tree. As an eternal symbol of respect for Daphne's fate, victors in wars would henceforth be crowned with a laurel wreath.

 

Daphne and Apollo

Dionysos and Acme

On the fourth panel, Dionysos makes an appearance again, this time in the pleasant company of the nymph Acme. We see Icarios holding the reins of an ox cart filled with bags of wine. After all, Dionysos taught him how to make wine. But he did so without warning him of the dangers. Two shepherds receive some wine in a generous gesture but quickly become drunk. Believing that Icarios intended to poison them, they kill him.

 

Icarios with ox cart

Hippolytos and Phaedra

Further along, we see Hippolytos reading a letter with increasing astonishment. It turns out that Phaedra is hopelessly in love with him. The burning torch that Cupid points to her heart says it all. However, Phaedra is his stepmother, and Hippolytos is definitely not interested in that kind of relationship. It goes without saying that Phaedra's revenge will be deadly.

The supreme god reveals himself as a member of the LGBTQ+ community by abducting Ganymede, the most beautiful boy among mortals

House of Dionysos – Zeus abducts Ganymede

In a corner, one of the many adventures of Zeus is depicted. The supreme god reveals himself as a member of the LGBTQ+ community. To abduct Ganymede – the most beautiful boy among mortals, if we are to believe Homer – Zeus transforms himself into an eagle. This theme would later inspire both Rubens and Rembrandt.

Excavations have shown that the House of Theseus was the official residence of the proconsul

With one last glance at a proud peacock displaying its blue tail, we leave the building. But it's not done yet. The House of Theseus must have been another impressive structure. Excavations have shown that this was the official residence of the proconsul. The building dates back to the 2nd century and survived the earthquake, remaining inhabited until the 7th century when marauding Arabs destroyed the city.

Again, a central atrium was present, with one wing dedicated to public spaces and the other to private quarters. Upon entering the building through the entrance hall, a beautiful mosaic lay at your feet. Four panels illustrated as many scenes from the life of Achilles. Unfortunately, only one of these has been preserved: the scene where Thetis gives her newborn baby Achilles his first bath. This is an important ritual in his life, but it should not be confused with the moment when she takes him by his heel and submerges him in the Styx to make him immortal.

Theseus holds the horns of the Minotaur, a terrible monster, which he will kill with the sword

House of Theseus – Theseus slays the Minotaur

The reason this is called the House of Theseus becomes clear in one of the other public rooms. Theseus is depicted at the moment when he achieves eternal fame. In his left hand, he holds the horns of the Minotaur, a terrifying monster, half man and half bull, that resided in a labyrinth in Crete. In his right hand, he wields the sword with which he will slay the monster. His gaze seems somewhat absent, staring off into the distance, as if such tasks were part of his daily routine.

Killing the Minotaur was one thing; finding the exit of the labyrinth was another. No one had ever succeeded in returning alive from the labyrinth. But that was before Ariadne came into play. She gave Theseus the thread that helped him find his way back. In the mosaic, we see Ariadne depicted in the upper left, while the man below her personifies the labyrinth. An intricate pattern surrounding the central medallion symbolises the complexity of the labyrinth.

Finally, in the House of Aion, only the mosaics of the triclinium have been uncovered. Every prominent Roman villa featured such a lavish dining room. Guests were treated to delicious dishes and drinks, but that was secondary to the main purpose – to impress guests with the wealth of the ostentatious host. The mosaics are overwhelming representations with a multitude of figures that cover the floor of the dining room like a wall-to-wall carpet.

Antonía points them out one by one, the five panels that now lie at our feet. One features the attractive Leda, the queen of Sparta, who is about to take a bath in a river. But there’s a predator lurking – supreme god Zeus has disguised himself as a swan to approach her. In the panel to the right, baby Dionysus is receiving his first bath.

Overwhelming representations with a multitude of figures cover the floor of the dining room like a wall-to-wall carpet

House of Aion – Triclinium – Little Dionysos gets his first bath

A beauty contest fills the wide panel in the centre. Cassiopeia has just been declared the winner. However, not everyone is happy about this. On the right, three Nereids stand sulking because they have had to concede defeat.

 

House of Aion – Triclinium – Cassiopeia wins the beauty contest, …

… the Nereids are disappointed

At the bottom left, Dionysos is once again enjoying his triumph. Typically, this would be a decadent affair, with drunken satyrs and ecstatic dancers everywhere. However, in this serene scene, none of them are to be seen. Was the master reluctant to show such scenes?

 

House of Aion – Triclinium – Apollo (right) wins the music contest, his challenger Marsyas (left) is sentenced to death

To the right, we see what happens when you challenge the gods. Marsyas, an exceptionally talented flute player, dared to claim that his talent even surpassed that of the divine Apollo. This led to a competition, which Apollo won with ease. But he didn’t stop there. Challenging a god carried the death penalty. Two warriors are already grabbing Marsyas by the hair, ready to carry out Apollo’s command.

 

House of Aion – Triclinium – Triumph of Dionysos (detail)

House of Dionysos – Peacock

Not all mosaics are on display, Antonía explains as we head back to the bus. Some have been excavated and then covered with loose sand to protect them from the elements – intense sunlight, salty sea air, and rain. Who knows what else is yet to be discovered on this vast site.

 

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Thursday 27 April | Limassol – Paphos

The weather gods are no longer on our side; from eleven o'clock, it starts to rain heavily. That’s not too bad, after all, we’ve had glorious weather for seven days. So, we don’t mind that the last day is a bit washed out.

Antonía has once again pulled a few extra visits out of her sleeve for us. As we drive westward along the coastal road toward the old centre of Limassol, she muses aloud about the past. In 1965, Apollonia was the first and only hotel along this coast. Aside from that, there was nothing here – no hotels, no shops, no apartment buildings. Now, the area is bursting with high rises. This is partly due to tourism, but also because foreigners have flocked to Limassol, especially Russians, as we have already noticed on the restaurant menus.

Even the promenade is new. In the past, the sea reached just in front of the houses. With an artificial promenade, about a hundred meters of land has been reclaimed from the sea, creating piers, parks, and parking spaces. It’s lovely to walk and jog among the trees. Further out at sea, heavy boulders lie submerged. These are breakwaters, placed parallel to the coast to form beaches and prevent erosion. But today, the sea poses no threat. Its surface is as flat as a billiard table; it is remarkably calm.

At the quay lies the Kyrenia II, a seaworthy replica of the shipwreck over two thousand years old

Limassol – Kyrenia II

Sean drops us off at the marina of Limassol for a stroll along the waterfront and through the old town. It’s no longer raining, and the sun is shining through the clouds. At the quay lies the Kyrenia II, a seaworthy replica of the shipwreck over two thousand years old that we became acquainted with last Friday at the castle of Kyrenia.

 

Limassol – Marina

But it’s the flashy white yachts that draw all the attention. It seems clear that everyone wants to have the biggest one. And we don’t even see the largest yachts, as they are anchored further out at sea where the water is deeper.

 

Limassol – Old town

Advertising panels in and around the marina play into that atmosphere. We learn that you can become the owner of a Maserati for a mere €69,950. The real estate agency Century 21 has a bargain on offer – a Magnificent Villa with stunning sea views for the Attractive price of €7.5 million. If your budget is more modest, you can always consider purchasing a more modest apartment for €2.5 million.

Berengaria of Navarre became Queen of England without ever setting foot on English soil – neither before nor after her marriage with Richard the Lionheart

Limassol – Castle

We leave the marina behind and venture into the old town. What has been a museum since 1987 was a castle in the 12th century. It was here that King Richard the Lionheart of England married Berengaria of Navarre in 1191. This Spanish noblewoman became Queen of England without ever setting foot on English soil – neither before nor after her marriage.

In the 15th century, the Venetians levelled the building to the ground. Later, it was rebuilt by the Ottomans, which is why this rough mass of stone has its shapeless appearance. When the British were in charge, they converted it into a prison.

 

Foundations of former church

Ayia Napa-Cathedral

Cami Kebir, the Great Mosque, reminds us that this district was once almost exclusively inhabited by Turks. The minaret still rises high above the surrounding houses. The mosque is built on the foundations of a church, and we can see the curves of the foundations of the apse. Here and there, elements of Ottoman architectural style can be recognised in the houses. Nearby, there is also a former caravanserai from the early 20th century.

The Ottomans had little interest in urban development

Stately mansions in Agiou Andreou

For three centuries, the Ottomans held sway in Limassol. However, they had little interest in urban development. There were no public buildings – no schools, no hospitals, no administrative buildings, not even paved roads. It wasn’t until 1882 that the British constructed the first paved street here, Agiou Andreou. Shortly after, the street flourished, with wealthy families bringing in architects from Greece to build stately mansions.

A charming square is named after Saripolou, the author of the first Greek constitution. Through a large arched gate, we enter the adjoining central market. It resembles more of a collection of eateries and a day care than a traditional market.

Ktisis personified the creation of the world

Ktisis as a symbol of the university

On the facade of the Cyprus University of Technology, we recognise the symbol of Ktisis, the young woman depicted with a measuring stick on the mosaic floor of the House of Eustolios in Kourion. She personified the creation of the world.

 

Limassol – Town Hall

Sean now takes us westward along Limassol's commercial port, which only dates back to 1973. However, it already had to be expanded in 1974 to compensate for the loss of the port of Famagusta after the Turkish invasion.

Gradually, we find ourselves amidst blooming citrus orchards. Each year, Cyprus exports an impressive 11,000 tons of citrus fruits – such as oranges, lemons, tangerines, mandoras, and grapefruits. This isn’t a given, as citrus fruits were once unknown on the island. They were only introduced during the interwar period of the last century by Jewish settlers.

Furthermore, this area used to be swampy. It was the British who, around 1880, began planting sequoia trees to help drain the marshes. Today, that move has proven to be a masterstroke. The citrus harvest takes place from October to June, with some varieties yielding two or even three harvests per year.

You won't find a refined architectural style in this building. Plain robustness was the standard

Kolossi – Castle

It’s half past three when we arrive at Kolossi Castle. Technically, it’s not a castle but a keep, a massive three-story residential tower. There was likely already a castle here in 1210, built by the French, but in its current form, it dates back to 1454. This was the work of the Knights Hospitaller, led by a certain Louis de Magnac. His coat of arms on the outer wall serves as a reminder of that.

 

Coat of arms

You won't find a refined architectural style in this building. Plain robustness was the standard, as the castle was strategically located and needed to be easily defended. The fortress stands 21 meters tall, with walls 1.25 meters thick. This thickness allows the window openings to be wide enough to accommodate stone benches.

High above our head, we can see five machicolations through which the castle's defenders could greet attackers with stones, boiling oil, or burning pitch

Machicolations

In the past, you entered the building on the first floor via a drawbridge. Today, that’s still the case, though the drawbridge has been replaced with a fixed bridge. High above our head, we can see five machicolations between the corbels – square openings through which the castle's defenders could greet attackers with stones, boiling oil, or burning pitch.

First, we explore the cellar. There, we find three dark barrel vaults, likely used as storage space. Then we move to the first floor. The layout is not complex – two large rectangular rooms with vaulted ceilings occupy the space. On both sides, holes have been cut into the high walls, likely to support beams for a wooden mezzanine. This extra floor could have been used for storage or as a sleeping area, with a smaller window providing light for that space.

Two large rectangular rooms with vaulted ceilings occupy the space

Kolossi – Castle

A mural on one of the walls in the eastern hall suggests that religious services for the community were held there. The fresco, dating back to the 15th century, depicts Jesus on the Cross, accompanied by the Virgin Mary and Saint John. The western room, on the other hand, featured a large fireplace and latrines, indicating that this space likely served as the dining hall.

 

 

Just like the first floor, the second floor consists of two large rectangular rooms. Here, too, the high vaulted ceilings leave space for a mezzanine. Both rooms had fireplaces, and one of them also featured latrines, suggesting that these were likely the private quarters of the castle lord.

While sugarcane plantations no longer exist in the area, sugar was an important export product in the Middle Ages. The lords of Kolossi took note of this, establishing a sugar factory next to their castle. Today, only barely recognisable ruins remain of this factory, but archaeologists are currently excavating the site.

In the Middle Ages, sugar was an important export product in this region

Kolossi – Castle

Ruins of the sugar factory

An aqueduct once ensured that enough water was brought in to power an overshot water mill, where the turning millstone crushed the sugarcane into a dark brown liquid. The longer the liquid was boiled, the whiter the final product became. This sugar trade was a highly lucrative enterprise, bringing significant prosperity to the region. However, this economic wealth also made the castle an attractive target for invading armies, leading to periods of strife and hardship.

The economic wealth made the castle an attractive target for invading armies

Shortly after four, we leave for our final destination. Antonía, ever the talkative guide, seizes the moment for one last reflection on her homeland and its people. Cypriot births, she explains, are barely celebrated, but baptisms are a big affair, akin to a wedding. Speaking of weddings, women are advised to marry between the ages of 20 and 26 – any older, and they’re considered too old for the marriage market. Men, on the other hand, aren't deemed past their prime until 35.

At least, that’s how it was. But then came the Russians. Not only did Russian men find their way to Cyprus, Russian women arrived too. Cypriot men were captivated by their blonde hair and blue eyes, and suddenly, age no longer mattered. For Russian women, marrying a Cypriot was a path to acquiring citizenship. Under the previous government, one could buy a Cypriot passport, but it cost a steep two million euros. Marriage, therefore, was a much cheaper option, and the passport was highly valuable since Cyprus' EU membership in 2004 granted access to the whole European Union.

Antonía sees a direct link between Russian women and Cyprus’ rising divorce rates. The 2014 banking crisis also contributed to marital breakdowns as many people lost their jobs or savings. Due to the high cost of living, newlyweds often move in with one of their parents, meaning that three generations commonly live under one roof.

Meanwhile, the site of Apollo Hylates has appeared at the window, one of the most important religious centres of ancient Cyprus. This sanctuary was in use for nearly twelve hundred years, from the 8th century BCE to 365 CE, when a devastating earthquake ended its long history.

That is an exceptionally long period, but initially it was not Apollo who was worshipped here, but the nature god Hylates. With the arrival of the Greeks, Hylates was gradually identified with Apollo, just as happened between Hathor and Aphrodite. But in this case the name Hylates was retained, so that we now speak of Apollo Hylates, the Apollo of the Woods.

That is why the sanctuary has been located for centuries in the middle of nature, far from any form of human settlement, on a slight elevation on the old road between Kourion and Paphos, from where one can catch a distant view of the sea.

The sanctuary of Apollo Hylates was in continuous use for almost twelve hundred years

Apollo Hylates – Palaestra

Whether you came from Kourion in the east or from Paphos in the west, you would always enter the domain through a monumental gate. At least, that was the case in Roman times. Only the Apollo temple and a limited number of other buildings date from the Hellenistic period. It was the Romans who, in the 1st century, displayed an enormous building fervour and erected most of the buildings. They were the ones who built the temenos around the domain, the wall that separated the sacred ground from the surrounding profane plots, also containing the entrance gates.

 

Apollo Hylates – Guest houses

Unfortunately, nothing remains of those monumental gates today. However, on our left, we can see the remnants of the palaestra, a type of sports arena where athletes trained. Further on, we notice the stoa, a colonnade behind which there were rooms that likely served as dormitories for temple visitors. On the right is the priests' living quarters, along with a kind of treasury where the most precious offerings were kept.

 

Archaic altar

The gently sloping Sacred Way leads us to the sanctuary. Here, the oldest structures are located, such as an altar from the Archaic period where animals were sacrificed. With some difficulty, we recognise the stone to which the animals were tied and the stones that served as the altar. The meat was given to the sacrificers – after all, they were far from home and had to eat – while the liver and kidneys were used to make predictions.

According to reports, the area around the altar was covered with a massive amount of ash and charred bones. A large quantity of pottery shards from around 600 BCE has been found, as well as one from around 2200 BCE, suggesting that ritual sacrifices were made here more than four thousand years ago.

The capitals bear a strong resemblance to those of Petra, the Jordanian red city

Apollo Hylates – Apollo Temple

What stands out about the Temple of Apollo is how incredibly small it is. This was the focal point of one of the most important cults on Cyprus, yet the building measured no more than eight meters by ten and had only four columns, of which, to make matters worse, only two remain standing.

The statue of Apollo in the sanctuary was similarly modest. There was no grand image of an imposing god, but rather a diminutive figure of about half a meter. However, that does not mean you should touch the statue. For if you did, you would be thrown into the sea from the nearby cliffs, as noted by the Greek geographer Strabo in the early years of our era.

In the frigidarium, faint traces of a mosaic can be pointed out

Antonía draws our attention to the capitals atop the two columns. They are neither Doric, nor Ionic, nor Corinthian. It is uncertain where the builders drew their inspiration from, but these capitals bear a strong resemblance to those of Petra, the Jordanian red city carved from the rocks.

 

Roman baths – Hypocaustum

We descend back to the Roman section and take a look at the thermal baths. They were not large, but there was a reason for that. They were exclusively intended for the athletes; ordinary temple visitors had no business here. In the frigidarium, faint traces of a mosaic can be pointed out.

 

Flowering sage

Thus, we conclude our exploration of Cyprus, the fascinating island with its wonderful mix of influences and cultures. We head towards Paphos Airport. Shortly after six, we bid farewell to our expert companions, driver Sean and tour guide Antonía. At a quarter to nine, we take off for a flight of four hours and fifteen minutes. In Zaventem, it is 11 °C and drizzling lightly. It will take some getting used to again.

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Jaak Palmans
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