Little gems in the mountains
Cyprus | Anno 2023
Tuesday, April 25 | Limassol – Kykkos – Omodos – Limassol
Wednesday, April 26 | Limassol – Troodos Mountains – Limassol
Tuesday, April 25 | Limassol – Kykkos – Omodos – Limassol
In the next two days, we are changing course. We’ll leave the coastal areas behind and head into the interior. There, our focus will shift to exploring the remnants of the impressive Byzantine culture. For eight centuries, from 395 to 1191, it left a profound mark on Cyprus.
Along a winding road, we climb higher and higher into the mountains
Troodos Mountains
With a two-hour drive ahead of us, tour guide Antonía takes the opportunity to share some insights about modern-day Cyprus. As our driver Sean takes us deeper into the mountains, through a sunlit landscape with not a cloud in the sky, we turn our attention to the socioeconomic situation of the average Cypriot. And there is, indeed, a cloud on the horizon, as it turns out.
The gross minimum income in Cyprus is 885 euros per month, with a net income of 800 euros. After six months, an additional 40 to 45 euros is added. With a degree, you start a bit higher, usually around 1 000 euros. Officially, the average salary in Cyprus is said to be 2 000 euros, but Antonía knows very few people who pocket such a high amount each month.
Many teachers and professors leave Greece and move to Cyprus because the wages here are significantly higher
Government employees are the prima donnas of the labour market. As a teacher, you start with 1 800 euros, a figure that can rise to three to four thousand euros gross during your career. As a professor at a university, you can even earn 5 000 euros a month. Many teachers and professors leave Greece and move to Cyprus because in their home country, their salaries are only 900 and 1 400 euros, respectively.
On the right, an English private school passes by the window. The tuition there amounts to 8 000 euros per year. In contrast, public schools are free. Classes in public schools run from 7:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m., and students have the afternoons off. So do the teachers. They use this free time to offer private tutoring, often to the same students they had in class that morning, for an additional fee. Why would they put effort into delivering quality education in the classroom? Antonía remarks sarcastically. They have permanent positions and are never monitored.
If you pass a special exam at the end of secondary school, you gain access to the university. This wasn’t always the case. It wasn't until 1992 that the University of Nicosia was founded, the very first public university in Cyprus. It was followed in 2004 by the Cyprus University of Technology in Limassol. Enrolling in a public university is free, while attending a private university costs 20 000 euros per year. As a university student, you are entitled to a scholarship of 1 400 euros per year.
It wasn't until 1992 that the University of Nicosia was founded, the very first public university in Cyprus
In the past, you had to go abroad for university studies, often to Greece or the United Kingdom. For a specialisation in medicine, people usually went to Germany. Antonía herself studied in France for four years, while two of her sisters studied French and economics in Greece. A third sister went to the United States for her university studies.
It wasn't until 2020 that Cyprus introduced a system of universally accessible and affordable healthcare. Before that, it was only available to government employees and refugees from 1974. Nowadays, everyone contributes to social security, granting them access to affordable healthcare.
You are entitled to retirement as soon as you turn 65. You can also retire at 63, but then you pay a 12 % tax on your pension. In the private sector, pensions are around 400 euros per month, while for government employees, they can go up to 2 000 euros.
In 2014, the country's second largest bank went bankrupt, many people lost a significant portion of their savings
In the not-so-distant past, unemployment reached 20 %. Many emigrated to countries like the United Kingdom and Germany because of this. Nowadays, unemployment has dropped to 7 %. If you are unemployed, you are entitled to a small amount for six months. Tourism is booming in Cyprus and creates employment, but it brings little relief. Hotels and restaurants have a preference for foreign workers because they demand little or nothing in terms of wages and working hours. As if the economic misery wasn’t enough, the financial crisis of 2014 hit hard. The country's second-largest bank went bankrupt, many people lost a significant portion of their savings, businesses were closed, and monthly wages were cut in half.
As depressing as the picture Antonía paints of Cyprus may be, the view passing by the window is magnificent. Along a winding road, we continue to climb higher into the mountains. We are now about 800 meters up, overlooking densely forested mountains and deep valleys. Here and there, we spot blooming mimosa trees, which grow only at this altitude.
In Limassol, the price for a three-bedroom apartment with a sea view can quickly reach 1,2 million euros. Of course, this varies greatly depending on the location, but you won’t find anything for less than 1 600 euros per square meter. A second-hand two-bedroom apartment costs around 250 000 euros, while a studio rents for 600 euros a month, and a small apartment for 800 euros.
It is mainly the increased demand that has caused the real estate crisis. Antonía primarily attributes this to the Russians
Such amounts are completely out of proportion to the salaries of ordinary people. For young couples, this poses a towering problem, even if both partners have jobs and together bring in 2 000 euros a month. No matter how hard they work, regular Cypriots can't build capital. COVID played a role in these real estate price increases, but it's mainly the increased demand that has caused this. Antonía primarily attributes this to Russians, Ukrainians, Israelis, and offshore workers.
The electricity bill, now that’s a whole other story. It amounts to 600 euros every two months, or even 800 euros if you factor in air conditioning and heating. This staggering amount has nothing to do with COVID or inflation, but everything to do with a massive explosion at a military base.
Two thousand tons of ammunition was stored in the blazing sun, without any form of protection – an accident waiting to happen
In 2009, an illegal shipment of munitions was intercepted in the Mediterranean Sea. A ship carrying 98 containers, over 2 000 tons of munitions in total, was on its way from Iran to Syria – clearly in violation of the UN embargo. The ship was diverted to a port in Cyprus. There, some fools thought it was a good idea to store the dangerous cargo at a military base, in the blazing sun, without any form of protection – an accident waiting to happen. On July 11, 2011, the whole thing exploded. At the time, it was the largest non-nuclear artificial explosion of the 21st century. Thirteen people died, including the twin sons of my neighbour, as Antonía points out.
But the nearby Vasilikos power plant was also severely damaged. It took a year before the plant began producing electricity again. The cost of the repairs was passed on to customers. The fact that the Minister of Defence went to prison for his blunder is, according to Antonía, cold comfort.
Despite the sunshine, it’s still quite cool up here. Just last week, there was still some snow
Black pines
All this time, we’ve continued climbing higher, and now the slopes are almost entirely covered with black pines. These coniferous trees, with their characteristic flattened crowns, only thrive above 1 200 meters above sea level. They also need a lot of sunlight, which is certainly not lacking here. In fact, the sunlight is so abundant that healthy layers of vegetation even develop beneath the trees.
Despite the sunshine, it’s still quite cool up here. Antonía recalls that just last week, there was still some snow. The British were well aware of this. Barely a year after gaining control of Cyprus, they began building a hill station here, a place where they could escape the scorching summer heat that grips the coastal areas. Antonía points out the summer residence of the British governor down to the right. French poet Arthur Rimbaud is said to have contributed to its construction. Nowadays, it’s used by the president of Cyprus.
These forests are home to wild animals like the mouflon
Laurel tree |
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Golden oak |
Troödos Square, about 1 730 meters above sea level, was once the heart of the British hill station. Today, it’s a hub for various tourist activities – hiking and cycling in the summer, and skiing in the winter. Here, you can buy traditional soutzoukos, long sausage-shaped sweets made from walnuts or almonds dipped in a sticky cream of grape juice, raisins, pomegranate, and more. It’s one of the most popular local treats, similar to the Georgian churchkhela and the Armenian sujukh.
For us this is the highlight of the day, at least in the literal sense of the word. To the right, we look down on Mesaoria, the central plain of the island. Beyond that rises the Kyrenia mountain range. To the left, in the distance, the large white dome of a British radar station marks Mount Olympus, the highest peak in Cyprus at 1 951 meters.
These forests are home to wild animals like the mouflon. Estimates of their population range from 1 200 to 3 000 individuals. While they’re not yet endangered, their situation is not entirely reassuring. Incidentally, a stylized image of a mouflon once adorned the tail fin of Cyprus Airways aircraft. But that’s a sad story, as the national airline was declared bankrupt in 2015, with the financial crisis delivering the final blow.
Out of sheer shame, the flower petals of the Judas tree turned pink instead of the white they used to be
Judas tree |
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Black pine |
Cyprus is not lacking in blooming plants. Over 1 800 species give the island its vibrant colours. Of these, 142 are endemic, as Antonía can tell you from memory, and 53 of those can be found only in these mountains. Trees with pink flowers regularly pop up alongside the road. We call them Judas trees, and legend has it that Judas hanged himself from such a tree after his betrayal. Out of sheer shame, the flower petals turned pink instead of the white they used to be. But it's the French who are right; they call this tree arbre de Judée because it originates from Judea.
Not many people live in Prodromos, at least not on a permanent basis. There are perhaps a hundred residents. The village's elevation of 1 390 meters – making it the highest village in Cyprus – contributes significantly to this. From here, we begin our descent into the Marathas Valley, also known as the Cherry Valley. So, it’s no surprise that cherry trees thrive here. Just after ten o'clock, we finally catch a glimpse of our destination in the distance to the left – a Greek Orthodox church on Throni Hill, and a little lower down the slope, the Kykkos Monastery. However, it will still take some time before the road, winding like a snake over the hills, brings us there.
In the distance our destination becomes visible – a Greek Orthodox church on Throni Hill and a little lower down the slope the Kykkos Monastery
Throni Hill and Kykkos Monastery
This gives Antonía ample opportunity to delve into the history of the monastery. We turn back the clock over 900 years, to when Isaiah was one of the many hermits who had retreated into these mountains. One day, Manuel Boutoumites, the Byzantine governor of Cyprus, appeared on the scene. He had become so engrossed in the hunt for a group of mouflons that he eventually lost his way. No worries – he spotted Isaiah, who would surely show him the way. But Isaiah was deep in prayer and was not to be distracted by earthly trivialities like a lost governor.
Boutoumites was not the kind of man to be ignored, and he promptly exploded in a Byzantine rage. He gave the arrogant hermit a few hard blows and left him half-dead. Back in his palace – the legend leaves open how he found the way – the governor fell seriously ill. No one could cure him until he had a dream in which he was advised to seek out the hermit and ask for forgiveness.
So he did. Isaiah listened to the apologies, healed the governor, and in return asked for a modest favour: whether Boutoumites could persuade the emperor in Constantinople to grant Cyprus a very special icon. Specifically, an icon of the Virgin Mary that had been painted by the evangelist Saint Luke himself. If the emperor could also finance the construction of a monastery to house the icon, Isaiah would be completely satisfied.
Boutoumites found these requests far too ambitious, insisting that the emperor would never honour them. But Isaiah stood his ground. The two set off for Constantinople to advocate for the matter of the icon.
Isaiah healed the governor and in return asked for a modest favour
Emperor Alexios Komnenos |
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Hermit Isaiah |
No, was the response from Emperor Alexios Komnenos. If he were to agree to this request, anyone could come up with a story to get something financed in the future. You see? I told you so, Boutoumites must have thought at the time. But he had underestimated the situation. As if God himself were intervening, the emperor’s youngest daughter suddenly fell gravely ill. Boutoumites recognised the symptoms immediately – It was that strange illness that had affected him as well. The outcome is predictable: only Isaiah was able to heal the emperor's daughter, and Alexios Komnenos felt obliged to grant him his requests in return.
The Byzantine emperor did indeed finance the construction of the Kykkos Monastery and arrange for the holy icon to be brought there
Like many legends, this one contains a kernel of truth. The Byzantine emperor did indeed finance the construction of the Kykkos Monastery and arrange for the holy icon to be brought there. He likely did so to protect the precious relic, as it was a tumultuous time.
The full title of the monastery is Holy and Royal Monastery, Source of the Cross, reflecting its significance. It is holy because a saintly monk was fundamental to its construction, royal because a king financed it, and Source of the Cross because it is built over a cross. This last aspect granted the monastery the right to govern itself without ecclesiastical authority above it, though still within the context of the Church of Cyprus.
While it may not be stated outright, this monastery is incredibly wealthy. Antonía attributes this wealth to people who often donated their possessions to the monastery upon their death, thus avoiding confiscation by the Turks. In the 16th century, the monastery housed 400 monks; by the 18th century, that number had dropped to 200, and today only 24 monks remain.
The most famous of all these monks is undoubtedly Michael Mouskos
The most famous of all these monks is undoubtedly Michael Mouskos. In 1926, he entered the monastery as a 13-year-old novice. Upon his ordination as a priest, he took the name Makarios. He would eventually rise to become the archbishop and even the president of Cyprus. Nevertheless, this monastery remained his favourite place throughout his life. He frequently visited, even after he became president in 1960. In 1974, he took refuge there during the Turkish bombardments. He died of a heart attack in 1977, much too young, Antonía notes. The stress of his job likely contributed to his untimely death, she adds, though being a chain smoker certainly didn’t help.
It’s half past ten. After just over two hours of driving, we arrive at Kykkos Monastery. The fact that such a monumental monastery still stands here today is a small miracle, as the buildings have been burned down multiple times throughout history. However, they have lost little to nothing of their grandeur over the centuries.
Colourful mosaics adorn the walls of the portal and the semi-open cloister
Kykkos Monastery – Portal
Archangel Michael, Saint Peter |
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Saint Paul, Archangel Gabriel |
The monastery as it stands today dates back to 1831. Colourful mosaics adorn the walls of the portal and the semi-open cloister. These were created at the end of the last century by the Kepola brothers, among others. Antonía points out several well-known scenes, such as Saint Luke painting the famous icon of Mary and an angel bringing building stones for a church. We recognise Emperor Alexios Komnenos facing the illness of his daughter and the monastic community receiving the revered icon. That the monastic community excels in beneficence is abundantly clear from various scenes – a man being healed after falling from his horse, drowning victims being rescued after a swordfish pierced the hull of their ship, and monks providing education to those who seek it.
What exactly happened to the Holy Virgin Mary after her death is a matter of disagreement between Catholics and Orthodox Christians. Catholics refer to this event as the Assumption of Mary. In paintings, we see her floating high in the air, lifted by an invisible force. She stands upright, her gaze devotedly directed upward. The imagery is clear – Mary is taken up to heaven, both body and soul.
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Maria Platytera |
No, say the Orthodox Christians; theologically, that is not correct. They refer to the event as the Dormition of the Mother of God. In a mosaic in the square in front of the church, we see how it all transpired. Mary’s lifeless body lies on a bed, surrounded by a multitude of people, including the twelve apostles. There is no sign of ascension here. But then there is Jesus, standing in a protective posture at her bedside. In His hands, He holds a baby wrapped in swaddling cloth. This baby represents the soul of Mary. The imagery is clear – Jesus will take Mary’s soul to heaven, while her body will remain on earth.
For Catholics, Mary is taken up into heaven with body and soul, for Orthodox, only Mary's soul is taken to heaven by Jesus
Dormition of Maria
Curiously, we enter the church, a fairly large dome basilica with three naves. Nothing has been spared to impress the unsuspecting visitor from the very first moment. Lavish splendour radiates from the high ceilings, the Russian chandeliers, and the frescoes on the walls. Here, we recognise scenes from the lives of Jesus and Mary, which were added around 1980.
In the front right, there is the seat of the archbishop, identifiable by the icon of Barnabas. Even though the archbishop likely never visits, that seat must still be there, Antonía emphasises.
However, it is the impressive 18th-century iconostasis that captivates the imagination. It resembles a towering wall of gold, adorned with icons in the traditional style and decorated with oil lamps and candlesticks.
The icon of the Holy Virgin Mary is said to be painted by Saint Luke seven years after the death of Jesus, using a living Mary as his model
Luke asks Mary for permission to paint her icon
Luke shows the Holy Icon to Mary
One of those icons is the miraculous icon for which we have come, the icon of the Holy Virgin Mary, which Saint Luke is said to have painted seven years after the death of Jesus, using a living Mary as his model. However, one should not take this too literally, as Luke may have started the painting, but by some miracle, the painting is supposed to have completed itself.
Whatever the case may be, in 1576, the famous icon was found encased in gilded silver. Since then, no one has been able to see it. To make matters worse, that silver casing is shielded from our view by a cloth. In short, we leave unsatisfied.
As a consolation prize, there is a copy hanging next to it. This raises the question of how one can make a copy of something that no one has ever seen. But Antonía has her answer ready. At the time, Luke made not one, but three original versions. From those, 70 copies were made, and one of those served as the model for the current copy.
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Mary as Eleusa |
Many dozens of silver and gold reliquaries in a back room reinforce the impression of overwhelming wealth that emanates from this monastery. The adjoining museum would also be overflowing with riches, but unfortunately, we don’t have time for that.
Makarios loved this area so much that it was his explicit wish to be buried here
Makarios loved this area so much that it was his explicit wish to be buried here. Not only did he stay here as a young novice, but he was also born here in 1913 in the mountain village of Pano Panagia. He was a clever boy, to such an extent that he was sent to Boston University in Massachusetts, USA, to study theology and sociology. While he was there, he was appointed bishop of Kytion. So it was time to return and gradually work his way up to archbishop. Between 1955 and 1959, he became the figurehead of the struggle for independence from the British coloniser. From 1960 until his death in 1977, he combined the roles of president and archbishop of Cyprus.
Between 1955 and 1959, Makarios became the figurehead of the struggle for independence from the British coloniser
Makarios III |
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Throni |
His grave is located about two kilometres further on. Sean drops us off at a parking lot overseen by a massive bronze statue. It weighs nine tons and was made by a Cypriot artist in England. Initially, it stood in the capital, Nicosia, right in front of the archbishop's palace. However, the then-archbishop got fed up with the imposing statue of his predecessor and had it moved here in 2008.
A path of pink bricks leads up the slope, first to the grave of Makarios and then to the top of the Throni Hill, where an Orthodox church is located. About every ten meters, there is a small white chapel on either side of the path, each featuring a life-sized mosaic depicting a different saint from the Greek Orthodox Church.
Considering that two paths lead up and that they are each about 450 meters long, there must be significantly more than a hundred saints displayed here. Yes, we have many saints, Antonía muses when asked, a whole lot. I didn't even know there were so many.
There seems to be a hierarchy at play, as the most important saints, such as Peter, Paul, John, and James, are placed at the very top. But we’re not there yet. Antonía points out a golden oak, a tree that only occurs in Cyprus, specifically on the slopes of the Troodos Mountains. It is not a large tree, never growing taller than ten meters. Its name comes from the golden underside of its evergreen leaves.
Splendour and pomp are nowhere to be found; sobriety and modesty are the norm
Throni – Tomb of Makarios III
It is not an ostentatious mausoleum that has been created as the final resting place of the first president of independent Cyprus. Splendour and pomp are nowhere to be found; sobriety and modesty are the norm. The dome-shaped, semi-open crypt is partly embedded in the hillside. A simple stone tombstone is topped with a black marble plaque inscribed with Makarios’ last words: My heart, my soul, and my thoughts will always be with you. A soldier stands motionless guard, while a second one lingers around a guardhouse. They take turns every thirty minutes. Military service is mandatory for men in Cyprus, lasting 14 months, Antonía answers our obvious question.
Throni – Chapel of the Virgin of the Rain
The brick path now transforms into a stately straight avenue that grandly leads directly to a small church. Thus, we reach the summit of Throni, which, at 1 318 meters, is the highest point in the wide area. This octagonal church was only completed in 2011. It is dedicated to Mary and still sparkles with newness. In times of drought, prayers are offered here to the Holy Virgin. The sacred icon is then carried in a procession from the monastery to this site to be venerated, in the hope of bringing rain.
In a comforting gesture, Mary lovingly leans her head against that of her Son
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Mary as Eleusa |
Inside, we find a canopy on four black pillars, beneath which is an icon of Mary, this time in copper and silver. Mary is depicted as Eleusa, the most human of the three standard representations in Orthodox iconography. Mother and Son know the suffering that awaits Him. In a comforting gesture, Mary lovingly leans her head against that of her Son.
From the dome, a Pantocrator looks down upon us. Such an image typically adorns the central dome of a Byzantine church. It represents Christ in His omnipotence, Christ as ruler over all. In His left hand, He holds the Gospel, and with His right hand, He makes the gesture of a teacher. However, we are not particularly delighted by the aesthetic qualities of this fresco.
Mary with the child Jesus in her womb represents the incarnation of Jesus
Mary as Platytera
We are, however, delighted by the Mary mosaic on the shell of the apse. She is depicted as Platytera, the third standard representation of Mary. On her chest is a medallion featuring an image of Jesus. However, this does not portray Mary with the child Jesus on her lap; rather, this is a depiction of Mary with the child Jesus in her womb. In other words, here we witness the incarnation of Jesus. Mary herself has her arms raised in a praying position. By showing us her open palms, she demonstrates her purity. In other words, she is pure enough to receive the Son of God.
Yes, we have many saints, Antonía muses, a whole lot. I didn't even know there were so many
Saint James |
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All this should not make us forget how wonderfully beautiful the view from this hill is. You can see over the wooded mountains in all directions, dark green with a hint of blue light. There are hardly any signs of habitation; only in the distance can you see houses on a mountaintop. It is perhaps this tranquillity, even this solitude, that prompted Makarios’ wish to be buried here. The wish trees show that this place is still associated with a spiritual power. Handkerchiefs, socks, and even face masks are tied to the branches in the hope that the Holy Virgin will provide relief.
It is perhaps this tranquillity, even this solitude, that prompted Makarios’ wish to be buried here
Morphou Bay
White cherry blossoms remind us on the way back that we are still driving through the Marathas Valley, the Cherry Valley. Down in the depths to the right, hidden among the lush greenery, lies an ancient nunnery, Antonía informs us. When the sacred icon was on its arduous journey from Constantinople to Kykkos, it rested there for three days.
The viewpoint at Kokkini, 1 350 meters high, gives us the opportunity to take a more leisurely look at the surroundings. A little later, the Trooditissa Monastery appears in the depths to the right. One of the 70 copies that Luke made of the sacred icon is kept there. But that’s not the only thing this monastery excels at. Couples who are unable to have children can turn to this monastery for help. The woman is given a belt to wear around her waist, and if she does, she is sure to become pregnant. In that case, she is obliged to give something in return. This is no small matter – she must either donate a piece of land to the monastery or persuade a son to become a monk.
Fig tree |
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Judas tree |
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Almond tree |
The long descent through the wooded slopes seems endless. But that’s okay, as the winding road offers ever-new panoramas. In the meantime, some clouds have gathered, but it remains sunny and warm, even though it was a bit cool earlier up in the mountains. We are slowly approaching the wine region. Foini is known as the village of potters. In the past, wine was aged in ceramic pots. These pots with conical bottoms were partially buried in the ground and then covered with a stone.
Omodos – Vineyards
Wine, they know everything about it at Ktima Gerolemo. Wine is bottled poetry, goes their motto. Around half past two, we arrive in the midst of rolling landscapes at the winery for what has been announced as a wine tasting. And that’s exactly what it becomes: wine tasting without frills or unnecessary fuss. There’s no explanation of how wine is made, no tour of the production facilities, no opportunity to ask questions. Before we even realise it, we have a glass in our hands, filled every three minutes like clockwork. In just twenty minutes we drink six different wines, which not only improve our personal record, but also make us receptive to all possible forms of poetry – bottled or not.
Suddenly we become receptive to all possible forms of poetry – bottled or not
Vineyard
A dry white wine made from a local grape variety is first, followed by a rosé, also from a local grape. Of the 56 wineries in Cyprus, only two make this wine. And we even won two gold medals for it in France, they proudly announce. With the third wine, we switch to red; we taste a wine that has been aged for a year in oak barrels. The fourth is a semi-sweet wine, also based on a local grape.
‘The king of wines, the wine of kings’, is what Richard the Lionheart called the Commandaria almost a thousand years ago
But all of that is just the prelude. The fifth wine is what it’s all about. This is the famous Commandaria, the wine that Richard the Lionheart called The king of wines, the wine of kings nearly a thousand years ago. At that time, this wine was still known as Nama, or Holy Wine. It wasn’t until the 13th century that it got its current name. However, it still retains a sense of sanctity, as it is used for communion during mass. The bread is then dipped in Commandaria. Each year in October, a Commandaria Festival is held, a tradition that has unfortunately been paused due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Nowadays, this royal drink is legally protected. Only thirteen villages in Cyprus are allowed to produce it, using a blend of 80 % white grapes and 20 % red grapes. In terms of flavour, it somewhat resembles tawny port.
The Cypriot firewater, as they call it, is number six. So it’s not wine, we learn as we swap our wine glass for a shot glass, but zivania, a strong spirit with an alcohol content of 43°. They let it age for five years in barrels that previously held Commandaria. We cautiously sip from the small glass. The taste reminds us of calvados.
If three million tourists visit Cyprus every year, then three million tourists visit Omodos every year, Antonía chuckles
Omodos – Timios Stavros Church
If three million tourists visit Cyprus every year, then three million tourists visit Omodos every year, Antonía chuckles as we head there. This reflects the atmosphere of cosy authenticity that the mountain village, with its white houses and red tiled roofs nestled among lush greenery, tries to exude. Our walk through the narrow streets soon leads us to the original establishment of Ktima Gerolemo, where historical artefacts are on display – a huge wine press, old wine barrels, and even a distillation apparatus for making zivania.
Wine press |
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As we continue, we find ourselves in the picturesque yet very commercial centre of Omodos. It’s mostly tourists you see strolling through the streets and squares. In the church of the Timios Stavros Monastery, the Monastery of the Holy Cross, a funeral service is taking place.
Timios Stavros Church – Iconostasis |
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Constantine the Great and Saint Helena |
We wander around for a bit before heading back. The church is now empty, except for a handful of worshippers. They are lined up to kiss the glass plate behind which a large silver cross is displayed. As if there had never been a coronavirus pandemic.
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Timios Stavros Church – 'Chamber of Saint Helena' |
In the modest museum, we discover an interesting collection of church treasures – icons, relic holders, paintings, and more. On the first and second floors of the cloister, we explore authentic rooms with wooden panelling and ceilings. In one of the rooms, Saint Helena, the mother of Constantine the Great, is said to have stayed when she visited Cyprus on her way back from the Holy Land, distributing relics of the Holy Cross here and there.
Wednesday, April 26 | Limassol – Troodos Mountains – Limassol
The world keeps turning, even while we are on vacation. In Sudan, a civil war rages between two rival army generals. The evacuation of Western citizens is proceeding slowly, and strategically located Cyprus is playing a key role. Yesterday, the first planes left from the British base in Akrotiri to Wadi Sayyidna, a former RAF base just north of Khartoum. Last night, they landed in Larnaca with several dozen British citizens on board. The morning news is filled with it.
However, this doesn't stop us from venturing into the Troodos Mountains again today. This time, the world-famous Byzantine churches are on our wish list. Such churches have been built in the Troodos Mountains since the 11th century. However, the phenomenon received a significant boost when the French Lusignans took control of Cyprus in 1197. These Catholic rulers were not tolerant; all who professed the Orthodox faith faced repression and discrimination. This prompted the clergy and many believers to retreat deep into the interior. For three centuries, they were able to build their churches and practice their faith in peace and quiet on the northern slopes of the Troodos Mountains.
The frescoes of the Troodos Mountains are considered some of the most beautiful in Cyprus
Terraced fields
These churches were not large; they typically measured the size of a substantial barn. Given the weather conditions – it could snow quite a bit high in the mountains – a steep tiled roof was often built over it to prevent a thick layer of snow from accumulating on the structure, which could damage the church.
Inside, the best artists would express themselves on the walls and ceilings, painting the most brilliant frescoes. These depictions often served to explain the key episodes from the Holy Scriptures to illiterate farmers. Today, it is primarily the well-preserved colours and clear details that stand out. The frescoes of the Troodos Mountains are considered some of the most beautiful in Cyprus. Ten of these churches were declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985, and four of them we will visit today.
Kato Amiantos Asbestos Mine (back right)
But first, Antonía wants to discuss another quality of the Cypriots during the bus ride – their ability to produce all kinds of sweets and especially their tendency to consume them in large quantities. To this end, she has brought didactic material, a number of cards featuring not only a photo of the delicacies but also the recipe and even the mention of the time of year when they are preferably eaten.
During Tirini, the last week before Lent, the consumption of meat is prohibited, but eggs and dairy products can still be eaten
Take, for example, bourekia me anari, a crispy pastry made of filo dough filled with anari, a traditional soft cheese made from the whey of halloumi. These bourekia are eaten throughout the year, but especially during tirini, the so-called cheese week, the last week before Lent. The consumption of meat is prohibited during this time, but eggs and dairy products can still be eaten.
Or consider tahinopita. These pastries, filled with tahini – a paste made from roasted sesame seeds – are also enjoyed year-round. However, they are especially common during Lent. A fast lasting 48 days can be quite challenging, but fortunately, the consumption of sweets like tahinopita is allowed since they do not contain dairy products, eggs, or oil and are therefore essentially vegan.
Agros owes its fame mainly to the rosewater extracted here from a specific type of fragrant rose that blooms in May and June
Agros
We hadn’t noticed it before, so captivated were we by the various sweets. But outside, the landscape shows more bare patches than yesterday. This was not always the case, emphasises Antonía. Once, this land was completely covered by dense forests. However, both the Egyptians and the Greeks came here to harvest wood for building their ships. Additionally, tree trunks were highly sought after in the mines, especially in the copper mines. When you add in some forest fires, it’s easy to understand why forests have struggled on this island.
Agros
Then yet another one of those picturesque villages with its white houses and red-tiled roofs appears. This is Agros, home to about a thousand inhabitants and located approximately 1 020 meters above sea level. Only Prodromos and Kyperounta are higher. Agros owes its fame mainly to the rosewater extracted here from a specific type of fragrant rose that blooms in May and June.
The shelves in her shop are filled with hundreds of jars, each one a targeted assault on our blood sugar levels
Rosewater is not the only product made by Niki Agathokleous. For 37 years, they have been making jam, marmalade, jelly, syrup, fruit juice, and more from all kinds of fruit. Business owner Niki welcomes us personally and provides explanations. Each year, they process 250 tons of fruit. The shelves in her shop are filled with hundreds of jars, each one a targeted assault on our blood sugar levels. But don’t worry; you can also buy the Diet Diabetic variant here, so diabetics can enjoy the fruit as well.
Traditional production – Peeling apples
Very special are the candies made from walnuts. You can only pick walnuts on one specific day each year, precisely when they are not yet fully ripe. The result is a delicacy that is unique to Cyprus. Nowhere else is this made, Niki insists.
Very special are the candies made from walnuts. You can only pick the walnuts on one specific day each year
Candies of (clockwise) watermelon, bergamot, fig, bitter orange, olive and carrot. In the middle: walnut |
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Niki now leads us to the cellar where about ten women are busy peeling apples. Their fingers move swiftly as they remove the peels and the seeds, while leaving the stems intact. This gives the fruits the appearance of an artisanal product.
The company employs a total of 25 staff members. Some are engaged in bottling and packaging, while others process mandarins into jam. Normally, they work eight hours a day, but sometimes there is no fruit and therefore no work. This is simply a highly seasonal activity. The fact that even in this remote mountain village they keep up with the times is demonstrated by the time clock, which does not use badges but rather fingerprints.
A narrow road, sometimes barely wider than our bus, takes us further north over densely forested slopes and along deep valleys. Occasionally, we are granted a glimpse of the Mesaoria plain. Dry terraces have been constructed to prevent erosion and to cultivate crops. These are a testament to great craftsmanship, Antonía emphasises, as only natural materials were used in their construction. Cement or concrete was not involved at all.
Panagia tou Araka
Until the 18th century, monks lived in Panagia tou Araka, a small monastery located about 1 040 meters high in the mountains, slightly north of the village of Lagoudera. As the name suggests, it is dedicated to Panagia, the Virgin Mary. The addition tou Araka refers to a specific type of chickpea that is common in the area.
Not a square centimetre is left untouched on the walls, the pillars, the vaults, the ceilings, the apse, and the dome
Panagia tou Araka
Dome and apse
Choir
With its enormous roof, the church indeed resembles a barn more than a church. While the exterior may evoke feelings of disappointment, the interior is overwhelming. Not a square centimetre is left untouched on the walls, the pillars, the vaults, the ceilings, the apse, and the dome. There is no doubt about who is responsible for much of this beauty. Theodoros Apsevdis left his signature on a lintel. He did this in December 1192. It is known that he received his training in Constantinople.
Many praise this Pantocrator as the most beautiful in Cyprus
Pantocrator
That this Theodoros worked at the end of the 12th century places him in the Komnenian tradition, named after the Byzantine Emperor Alexios Komnenos. Typical of this style are the elongated figures, softer colours, and relatively simple scenes with a minimum of figures. In a later period, the Palaeologan style will introduce more baroque representations. But that is for later.
Dormition of Mary
Mary as Hodegetria
On the arch of the apse, we recognise Mary with Jesus as a small adult sitting on her lap. He holds a scroll of the Holy Scriptures in his hand, and she points to him as the Word. In short, this is a Hodegetria. To her left stands the archangel Gabriel, and to her right, Michael. Lower down, high priests are depicted in white robes with long beards. It is an exceptionally beautiful scene, but it dates only from the 14th century. Therefore, this cannot be called Komnenian anymore.
Eve and Adam (left) |
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Mary in Egypt |
Another gem is the Pantocrator in the dome above our heads. Many praise him as the most beautiful Pantocrator in Cyprus. What makes him somewhat special is the fact that he does not look at us sternly but discreetly glances to the side. As if to say, I know you have sinned, but rest assured, I will pretend not to see that; just go ahead and confess.
Some historians see in the representation of Our Lady of the Passion an allusion to the sad fate that befell Cyprus at that time
Our Lady of the Passion |
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Presentation of the young Mary at the Temple |
The depiction of Our Lady of the Passion is also very special. Tenderly, she holds her Child in her arms, and the two gaze lovingly at each other. It seems to be a peaceful scene. Yet that is merely an illusion. Mary is dressed entirely in brown, symbolising the immense sorrow that overwhelms her as she contemplates the fate awaiting her son. This is abundantly clear from the attributes carried by the two angels on her left and right. One holds a spear, while the other carries a cross. Some historians see a political message here, an allusion to the sad fate that befell Cyprus at that time, becoming a plaything of the great powers.
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Panagia tou Araka |
The narrow road winds through picturesque villages, and the hairpin turns are incredibly sharp, making it nearly impossible to pass oncoming traffic. Driver Sean has his hands full. Antonía can tell you all about it. She has been active as a tour guide for 33 years now, but she has only visited Stavros tou Agiasmati a few times. The simple reason is that the location is not accessible for a large bus. Despite the fact that we are still over nine hundred meters above sea level, it remains sunny and warm.
Olive tree |
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Oregano |
Church of the Holy Water is the literal translation of Stavros tou Agiasmati. This would mean that there is a water spring located near the church. Others suggest that the name Agiasmati may come from a village of the same name near Constantinople, which is now called Altınova. In 1453, when the Islamic Ottomans besieged Constantinople, the Greek Orthodox inhabitants of Agiasmati are said to have fled here and named the place after their homeland.
Next to the small church some traces of monks' cells can still be found
Stavros tou Agiasmati
Whatever the case may be, there must have originally been a monastery next to the small church, as some traces of monks' cells can still be found. The exact date of the church's construction is not known for certain, but it is highly likely that it dates from the 15th century, as the frescoes were completed in 1494. This makes Stavros tou Agiasmati about three centuries younger than Panagia tou Araka.
Even the tie beams of the wooden truss are painted with floral motifs and the face of Jesus
Stavros tou Agiasmati |
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Here too, the exterior somewhat disappoints us. The church is mostly hidden under a steep roof, although the walls are visible to a limited extent. Inside, we are surprised by the architectural simplicity of the building. There are no vaults, pillars, dome, or ceiling; we find ourselves in a not overly large, rectangular space where we look up at the open roof trusses. Only the simple iconostasis, the apse, and a few niches in the side walls provide some structure to the space. Wooden benches against the side walls indicate where the monks once sat.
Colourful frescoes adorn the walls. We recognise scenes from the life of Jesus
Birth of Jesus |
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John baptises Jesus in the Jordan |
Jesus raises Lazarus from the dead |
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Entry of Jesus into Jerusalem |
Foot washing |
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Judas kiss |
Descent from the Cross |
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Dormition of Mary |
Remarkably, the portrayal of the Dormition of Mary is also present. However, one man stands out immediately. He has secretly touched Mary’s body
Colourful frescoes adorn the walls. We recognise scenes from the life of Jesus – his birth, baptism, the raising of Lazarus from the grave, the entry into Jerusalem, the transfiguration on Mount Tabor, the Last Supper, the kiss of Judas, to name a few. Below them are life-sized figures, likely saints, judging by their serious facial expressions, long grey beards, and the halos around their heads. Even the tie beams of the wooden truss are painted with floral motifs and the face of Jesus.
A true gem is the depiction of Mary on the shell of the apse
Mary as Platytera
A true gem is the depiction of Mary on the shell of the apse. She is shown seated, with her hands raised, palms facing us, and a medallion of Jesus on her chest. We know by now that this is a Platytera.
Remarkably, the portrayal of the Dormition of Mary is also present. The scene is familiar by now: Mary’s lifeless body lies on a bed, while Jesus is ready to take her soul, depicted as a child, to heaven, with about twenty onlookers witnessing the event. However, one man stands out immediately. He has secretly touched Mary’s body. The scoundrel is swiftly punished, as an angel promptly cuts off both of his hands in one swift motion.
The frescoes were painted by a certain Philippos Goul, an Orthodox Syrian. Antonía tells us that he also created the frescoes in the Agios Mamas Church in Louvaras. The style he used is known as the Palaeologan style, named after the Palaeologus dynasty that ruled Constantinople during this period. Compared to the Komnenian style of the 12th century, the colours in this style are more vivid, and the scenes are crowded with figures.
An inscription informs us that the construction of the church was financed by priest Petros Peratis and his wife Pepani.
A massive scene, several meters high, depicts the Last Judgment
The Last Judgment
Paradise (detail) |
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Hell (detail) |
Antonía pulls yet another surprise from her sleeve: the church’s exterior, specifically the back wall, is also adorned with frescoes. A massive scene, several meters high, depicts the Last Judgment. On the left, paradise is shown, where blissful figures radiate happiness. On the right, hell is portrayed as a place no one would ever want to end up. People are being devoured by all sorts of creatures. We see hands and legs sticking out of the jaws of wolf-like monsters, while one unfortunate soul is trapped in the grip of a gigantic octopus. The contrast in style is striking. On the left, the figures are depicted in the familiar Palaeologan style, while the right side, with its chaotic imagery, appears almost naïve in comparison.
Agios Mamas |
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A fairly dense cloud cover has now settled over the mountains. But it gradually starts to fade as we head to our next church. There, the sun is shining, with barely a cloud in the sky. On the ground, however, the picture is less rosy. Two large buses in the parking lot are not a good sign. Gone is the peace, this little church is about to get crowded. Though, in the end, it isn't so bad, as most of the visitors are already seated for lunch.
That Panagia tis Asinou attracts so much attention is no surprise. It's probably the most remarkable of all the churches we’ve seen today. This is mainly due to its age. It was built between 1099 and 1105, on the initiative of Nikiforos Ischirios, a magistrate who had just lost his wife Gefyra. He also financed its construction. Not long after, a monastery was added, as it is known that Nikiforos retired here to live out his days as a monk. The church is sometimes called Forviotissa, likely a reference to the pastoral surroundings in which we find ourselves.
Fortunately, the expressive exterior walls, made of yellow limestone and rough volcanic rock, remain largely visible
Panagia tis Asinou
Here too, a steep slate-tile roof was added later to protect the church. Fortunately, the expressive exterior walls, made of yellow limestone and rough volcanic rock, remain largely visible. However, the centuries have not been kind to the church. Earthquakes ravaged the structure, and the apse had to be rebuilt.
Kiss of Judas – Simon of Cyrene carries the cross
Once again, we are overwhelmed by the interior as we enter the church. Over a hundred colourful frescoes, filled with numerous figures, crowd the walls and ceilings. Some of the frescoes have been repainted over the centuries, creating a perspective that spans the period from the 12th to even the 17th century. Many familiar scenes from the life of Jesus are depicted – the Nativity, the Baptism, the Transfiguration, the kiss of Judas, Simon of Cyrene's helping hand, the Crucifixion, the Entombment, and more.
Dormition of Mary
The Dormition of Mary is also depicted here, but this time without the rogue touching her body, Antonía remarks with a smirk. Elsewhere, a man is shown holding a model of the church in his hands. That’s Nikiforos, the man who funded its construction. His wife, noticeably smaller, stands behind him.
Panagia tis Asinou |
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Choir |
Noteworthy is the personification of the Jordan River at the baptism of Jesus, a detail that sparked controversy at the time. Depicting the river as a human figure wasn’t unusual, as that was seen more often. However, in this case, the figure is portrayed as a man with wings. At the time, some viewed this as demonic, claiming it had no place in a church.
The fresco depicting the Forty Martyrs of Sebasteia can be considered unique, as this theme does not appear elsewhere
The Forty Martyrs of Sebasteia (detail) |
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One of the sponsors in Frankish habit (left) |
In the narthex or vestibule of the church the French influence is clearly noticeable
The fresco depicting the Forty Martyrs of Sebasteia can be considered unique, as this theme does not appear elsewhere, emphasises Antonía. It is believed that this is not a legend but is based on actual events that took place around 320 in Sebasteia, now known as Sivas in Turkey.
A new Roman governor wanted to restore order and demanded the soldiers of the XII Legion to swear allegiance to the emperor and renounce all Christian symbols. Forty soldiers declared themselves Christians and refused to do so. To make them relent, the governor forced them to sit on a frozen lake, naked in the biting wind. On the shore, he had a bath installed from which enticing warm vapours rose. It was in vain; the forty continued to defy the freezing cold. Except for one. He secretly fled, but another soldier noticed and spontaneously took his place so that it would not be discovered. It is noteworthy that along with the story, the individual names of the forty martyrs have been passed down.
Panagia tis Asinou – Pantocrator
After the church was built, it took two centuries until 1332 for the narthex or entrance hall of the church to be painted. This makes the French influence quite noticeable. One of the donors, a lady, is dressed in a white habit in the French style. This time, the Pantocrator on the dome looks us straight in the eye, reminding us that we still haven't confessed. Goodness gracious.
It is almost two o'clock when we settle down for lunch at a nearby restaurant. A restaurant with a thousand seats is something we haven't seen often. But in Cyprus, that's not unusual, considering that a wedding can easily invite one to two thousand guests.
The road now runs parallel to the Green Line, the buffer zone between the Turkish and Greek parts of the island
Antonía has two more churches as an extra surprise for us. We descend along the northern flank of the Troodos Mountains toward the Mesaoria Plain. In the distance, we occasionally catch a glimpse of the Bay of Morphou, the place where the Turks unloaded supplies and volunteers starting in December 1963 to support the Turkish Cypriots. At Kato Koutrafas, we reach the B9. The road now runs parallel to the Green Line, the buffer zone between the Turkish and Greek parts of the island. If we weren't aware of this, a manned lookout post reminds us, surrounded by barbed wire, standing on a high hill just a few hundred meters to the right of the road.
It is half-past three when we gradually approach the Soleia Valley, or the Apple Valley, where apple trees thrive abundantly. Despite its sweet name, the valley has only a few small villages with very few residents. However, as everything becomes so expensive in the cities, many people are returning to their former homeland, Antonía notes.
Panagia tis Podithou turns out not to be located in a remote place in the mountains, but in the middle of the fertile upper valley of the Karkotis
Panagia tis Podithou
Where we had to search for the Byzantine churches so far in remote locations in the mountains, Panagia tis Podithou is located in the fertile upper valley of the Karkotis, quite close to the village of Galata. We walk along a gravel road to get there. As usual, the small church is hidden beneath a steep roof. To the left, a huge black pine rises from the fields. Who knows, that tree may have been there when this church was built in 1502 during the Venetian rule.
This resulted in a mix of late Gothic and early Renaissance styles, an evolution of which this iconostasis is one of the best examples
Panagia tis Podithou – Iconostasis
Compared to everything we've seen so far, the interior here is somewhat disappointing. Whether this is due to a lack of funds, a shortage of monks, or a combination of both is left undetermined by Antonía. The fact is that frescoes are only found in the apse and on the back wall. The remaining walls are covered with a pale lime layer, and some areas are even flaking off.
Initially, the gilded woodwork of the iconostasis also makes a modest impression. However, the 16th century was the period when the Renaissance also reached Cyprus. This resulted in a mix of late Gothic and early Renaissance styles, an evolution of which this iconostasis is one of the best examples. Unfortunately, in 2003, thieves made off with the two precious panels from the central door. No one knows where they are now, leaving a large gap that mars the artwork.
The commander almost certainly belonged to a family of French origin who spoke Greek and followed Orthodox rituals
Panagia tis Podithou – Apse with Mary as Hodegetria
For the most beautiful fresco, we turn to the apse. It is a perfect depiction, with sparkling colours and razor-sharp details. Mary is sitting with Jesus on her lap, flanked by the archangels Michael and Gabriel. Below them, the Holy Communion of the apostles is portrayed, with the sharing of the Bread on the left and the receiving of the Wine on the right. A stunning whole.
It was a certain Demetre de Coron, a commander of the nearby barony of Pentageia – now Yeşilyurt on the coast – who commissioned this church to be built in his old age and sponsored the work. On the outer wall, we see him depicted as an elderly man, showing a model of the church alongside his Greek wife Eleni. He almost certainly belonged to a family of originally French descent who spoke Greek and followed Orthodox rituals.
Especially in the Crucifixion, Renaissance elements seem to almost completely overshadow the Byzantine character of the work
Panagia tis Podithou – Crucifixion
The painter, on the other hand, was originally from Constantinople. He had further honed his skills in painting in Italy and was greatly influenced by the masters of the Italian Renaissance. This influence is particularly evident in the Crucifixion, an imposing fresco on the back wall, where Renaissance elements seem to almost completely overshadow the Byzantine character of the work. It would not look out of place in our Western museums.
Robinia ('false acacia') |
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Naos Theotokos Archangelos Michael |
The last church, Naos Theotokos Archangelos Michael, is just a few minutes' walk away. In fact, this is a small family chapel and has nothing to do with a monastery. It is believed to have been built in the early 16th century, as an inscription reveals that Simeon Axentis completed the last touches on his frescoes on January 17, 1514. Elsewhere, we read that Stefanou Zacharia and his wife Loeizas financed the construction of the chapel, while Polou Zacharia and his wife Mandelena funded the frescoes. It seems they were two brothers who invested in the salvation of their family's souls. Polou and Mandelena had themselves depicted with their son and three daughters. Their lavish clothing confirms the suspicion that they must have belonged to an aristocratic family.
Naos Theotokos Archangelos Michael – The sponsors Polou Zacharia and Mandelena with their son and three daughters
The select group of ten churches recognised as World Heritage does not include this simple yet beautiful family chapel. The reason for this is unclear. However, it certainly does not detract from our appreciation. We happily admire the scenes depicting the life and suffering of Jesus and Mary.
Surprisingly, some stories from the Old Testament are also illustrated
Surprisingly, some stories from the Old Testament are also illustrated. For example, Joachim and Anna make an appearance – the parents of Mary and thus the grandparents of Jesus. The theme of Abraham's hospitality is also addressed. We see Abraham and Sarah seated at a table with three noble strangers whom they have warmly welcomed. These three figures represent the Holy Trinity, we hear Antonía say.
Annunciation of Mary – Mary in Egypt
Huh? The Holy Trinity in the Old Testament? Jesus and the Holy Spirit only make their appearance in the New Testament, right? But Antonía remains undeterred. This story from Genesis 18-19 is considered one of the Old Testament prophecies – a prophecy that foretells the coming of the Holy Trinity.
Panagia tis Podithou |
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Karkotis Valley |
Shortly after four o'clock, we begin our journey back, heading south over the Troodos Mountains toward Limassol. This morning we had already noticed the enormous grey scar that disfigures the green, densely forested mountains near Kato Amiantos. It looks as if a space monster has taken a big bite out of the mountains. But that’s not the case; it is humans who have done this.
What was once a significant source of income has now become the largest environmental disaster on the island
In the not-so-distant past, an asbestos mine was operated here. It produced twenty to thirty thousand tons of asbestos fibres each year. Kato Amiantos, the village we are now passing through, was the hub of all the mining activity. Local employment was booming until the mine was closed in 1987 due to a lack of demand for asbestos. What was once a significant source of income has now become the largest environmental disaster on the island, Antonía concludes. The number of Kato Amiantos residents who died from mesothelioma is unknown.
Jaak Palmans
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