Built by angels

Cyprus | Anno 2023

 

Saturday 22 April | Larnaca – Nicosia

Sunday 23 April | Nicosia – Kiti – Larnaca – Lefkara – Limassol

 

 

Saturday 22 April | Larnaca – Nicosia

Just like Famagusta, Larnaca emerged from one of the mighty ancient Greek city-states. And like Famagusta, it is now a port city on Cyprus's eastern coast. But that is where the similarities end. These are clearly two different worlds – Famagusta is Turkish, while Larnaca is Greek.

These are clearly two different worlds – Famagusta is Turkish, while Larnaca is Greek

Kition was the name of the city-state founded here in the 14th century BCE, which eventually grew into Larnaca. It wasn't just Greeks who inhabited this early kingdom; Phoenicians from present-day Lebanon also settled here, bringing with them their phonetic alphabet – a system of 22 characters where each symbol represented a sound. This was a revolutionary innovation compared to the complex cuneiform scripts and hieroglyphs that preceded it, which required learning a vast number of intricate symbols. The Phoenician alphabet would eventually become the foundation of the Greek alphabet and, subsequently, almost all modern alphabets.

The story of Lazarus is well-known. Four days after his death, he was brought back to life by Jesus, as recounted in the Gospel of John. But what happened to him after that is less familiar. After Jesus’ crucifixion, fear gripped Lazarus, and he fled his homeland, eventually ending up in Larnaca, Cyprus. There, he befriended Saint Paul and Barnabas and, with their support, became a bishop. For thirty years, he held that position. Around 63, Lazarus died a second time, but this time it was for good. Centuries passed, and no one knew where Lazarus had been buried.

After Jesus’ crucifixion, fear gripped Lazarus, and he fled his homeland, eventually ending up in Larnaca, Cyprus, where he died a second time

Larnaca – Saint Lazarus Church

Until his remains were rediscovered in 890. An inscription on the sarcophagus left no doubt about its contents: Lazarus, Friend of Christ. Promptly, the Byzantine Emperor Leo VI had the remains transported to Constantinople. The people in Larnaca did not find this amusing. To appease the population, the emperor had a beautiful church dedicated to Lazarus built over the empty sarcophagus, known as Agios Lazaros.

But still Lazarus was not granted eternal rest.

But still Lazarus was not granted eternal rest. When the Crusaders conquered Constantinople in 1204, they took many art treasures and relics back home, including the remains of Lazarus. These were interred in the Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-Majeure in Marseille. Even today, you can see a golden reliquary that supposedly contains Lazarus’ remains, but there are substantial doubts about its authenticity.

 

Saint Lazarus Churcj

Iconostasis

The Agios Lazaros is now our destination. But that doesn’t go smoothly. There’s some kind of event happening in Larnaca – apparently a parade of youth groups – resulting in the city centre being closed off. Driver Sean comes up with an alternative and manages to drop us off close to the church. Meanwhile, tour guide Antonía points out that Zeno, the founder of Stoicism, was also born here in the 4th century BCE. The core of his philosophical teaching was to calmly accept what the universe has in store for you. Resisting things that must happen is futile. He called living in harmony with nature the true challenge.

The church has become a showcase of Catholic woodcarving and Orthodox icon art

Saint Lazarus Church – Iconostasis

Entering the Church of Saint Lazarus immediately leaves you speechless, as the interior is so overwhelming. Originally dating back to the 9th century, this basilica with three naves and three domes is now the result of renovations from the 17th century. It has become a showcase of Catholic woodcarving and Orthodox icon art. The woodcarving is particularly evident in the choir stalls and the pulpit, while the icons can be found on the iconostasis. This iconostasis, covered in gold leaf, boasts an impressive 125 icons and is rightly considered one of the most beautiful in Cyprus. Before we shuffle past the iconostasis, Antonía shows us a 16th-century icon depicting the moment Jesus brings Lazarus back to life.

The iconostasis is covered in gold leaf, boasts an impressive 125 icons and is considered one of the most beautiful in Cyprus

Scenes from the life of Lazarus

Original sarcophagus of Lazarus

We descend into the crypt and bow our heads beneath the low ceiling. There, two stone sarcophagi stand, with the largest one presumably belonging to Lazarus. A conical opening has been drilled into the stone lid of his sarcophagus. Through this opening, pilgrims would pour oil in the hope that it would become holy and healing through contact with Lazarus's body. From time to time, the lid would be opened, and the oil would be scooped out.

Through a glass-covered opening, you can see a portion of Lazarus’ skull

Reliquary of Lazarus

Skull fragment of Lazarus

Somewhat astonished, we stand in the church staring at a casket. It is said to contain the bones of Lazarus, or at least a part of them. Through a glass-covered opening, you can see a portion of his skull. Every believer who enters the church leans forward to kiss the glass, and thus, in essence, the skull – as if there had never been a coronavirus pandemic.

Huh? Relics of Lazarus in this church? What can we still believe? Are his relics in Constantinople, in Marseille, or right here in Larnaca? The last episode in this religious thriller tells us that in 1972, human remains were discovered beneath the church altar. According to the local narrative, this was the true skeleton of Lazarus, secretly removed by priests from the sarcophagus and hidden beneath the altar to protect it from theft. In 2012, part of this skeleton was presented as a gift to the Russian Orthodox Church, and the rest ended up in this casket. Poor Lazarus. Will he ever be granted eternal rest?

Poor Lazarus. Will he ever be granted eternal rest?

Saint Lazarus Church

Ottoman Castle

We take a stroll to the famous Finikoudes, or Palm Boulevard, a five-hundred-meter-long promenade perfect for leisurely walking in the evening sun. In tourist brochures, the extensive beach is praised in ecstatic terms for its romantic beauty. But the sand is grey, Antonía doesn’t hesitate to point out, not golden yellow like in Varosha.

Shortly after six, we begin our return to Nicosia. Above the capital, grey rain clouds seem to be gathering, but it doesn’t rain. Just before seven, Sean drops us off at Eleftheria Square.

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Sunday 23 April | Nicosia – Kiti – Larnaca – Lefkara – Limassol

For three nights, Nicosia has been our home base, but today that comes to an end. This evening, we’ll swap the charming old district of Nicosia for the coastal area near the port city of Limassol. But that’s for later, as we still have a busy agenda ahead of us, starting with some attractions in the capital itself.

Side by side, the flags of Türkiye and Northern Cyprus flutter in the wind

Nicosia – Turkish and Turkish Cypriot flag

City wall with barbed wire

We won’t need Sean’s bus for now; we’re setting off on foot. Our first stop is the Paphos Gate. Here, the Green Line runs neatly along the city wall, and at the top, we can see the barbed wire that the Turks have strung up. Side by side, the flags of Türkiye and Northern Cyprus flutter in the wind. We take a moment to peek into the Church of the Holy Cross, a Roman Catholic church, where a black priest is leading the Sunday service.

 

Nicosia – Turkish zone

The Cyprus Museum is our intended destination, but Antonía chooses to bypass it for now. Instead, she takes a detour to the buffer zone in the Ledra Area. Here lies the legendary Ledra Palace Hotel, once one of the most famous hotels in Nicosia. Now, it stands empty; for almost fifty years, it has not welcomed any guests. The only exception might be the officials from the United Nations, who now use it as their office.

The heavy past hangs like a suffocating blanket over the buffer zone of the Ledra Area

Buffer Zone – Ledra Palace Hotel

The heavy past hangs like a suffocating blanket over this area. Large panels with photographs at the Greek border post commemorate the tragic fate of two Greek peaceful demonstrators who were killed during the 1996 uprising. One was beaten to death with iron and wooden sticks by Turkish counter-protesters, while the other was shot by Turkish snipers. Elsewhere, a plaque refers to the 1,619 missing persons still being searched for. Occasionally, human remains are found and identified through their DNA.

It is not the Turkish Cypriots who are obstructing reunification, Antonía emphasises; it is the Turkish immigrants

For thirty years, from 1974 to 2004, this was the only crossing through which Greek Cypriots from the north could visit family in the south under strict conditions, and vice versa. It is not the Turkish Cypriots who are obstructing reunification, Antonía emphasises; it is the Turkish immigrants. They have bought property or made investments on the island and resist any form of rapprochement, fearing they will lose their privileged position.

 

Buffer Zone – Message of Peace

Buffer Zone – Home for Co-operation

The buffer zone here is quite wide, about three hundred meters. We walk to within fifty meters of the Turkish border post. If anyone harbours the illusion that the current situation is still reversible, a large sign leaves nothing to be desired in terms of clarity: Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus Forever is emblazoned in giant letters.

Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus Forever

Turkish border post

Then we turn back. Only now do we notice that the first building you encounter in the Greek zone when leaving the buffer zone is the Greek embassy. Is that a coincidence? Or do the Greeks want to make a statement by saying, Thus far and no further?

The oldest idols date back to the 7th millennium BCE – more than four thousand years before the construction of Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids

Mycenaean mixing vessel (13th century BCE)

The many objects on display at the Cyprus Museum are real treasures. Here, you can easily spend an entire day marvelling at the most remarkable finds from Cypriot civilisation. It's not only the aesthetic qualities of these artefacts that astonish us, but also the incredible variety of cultural influences and the unimaginable time span that these objects cover. Just imagine, the oldest idols date back to the 7th millennium BCE – more than four thousand years before the construction of Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids.

 

Cult vessel (20th century BCE)

Unfortunately, our visit will be limited to just over an hour. At a brisk pace, Antonía navigates us through the most remarkable finds. Among them are the famous cross-shaped idols from the 3rd millennium BCE, an art form unique to Cyprus. We also see the artistic pottery vessels adorned with animal and geometric motifs from the 2nd millennium BCE.

The conical rhyton, or drinking cup, from the 13th century BCE, is made of pottery, adorned with a layer of blue glaze featuring intricate decorations

Conical rython (13th century BCE)

One particularly striking piece is the conical rhyton, or drinking cup, from the 13th century BCE, excavated in Kition near Larnaca. The cup itself is made of pottery, adorned with a layer of blue glaze featuring intricate decorations. At the top, we can see running bulls and goats; below them, a hunter with his prey, and at the very bottom, spiral geometric motifs.

More than two thousand terracotta votive figurines were arranged in a circle around an altar

Votive figurines of Ayia Irini (7th century BCE)

When Swedish archaeologists uncovered the site of the sanctuary of Ayia Irini in northwestern Cyprus in 1929, they were astonished by what they found. More than two thousand terracotta votive figurines were arranged in a circle around an altar. These were likely placed there between 750 and 600 BCE by devoted pilgrims as offerings to a war god. Now they are displayed in the museum – chariots, warriors, bulls, centaurs... and exactly two female figures. It is an outright impressive showcase.

 

Oval pyxis (19th century BCE)

The limestone sculptures of three lions and two sphinxes date back to the 6th century BCE. They were likely intended to be placed on either side of the entrance to a tomb. However, this is not certain, as they were discovered amidst a pile of construction debris.

 

 

When a farmer near Kythrea discovered the remnants of a bronze statue in his field, he was extremely excited. Believing that a precious treasure was hidden inside, the farmer attacked the bronze statue of Septimius Severus with a hammer. Experts had an incredibly difficult time reconstructing the statue from the shards, but now it stands here in all its glory – the magnificent, over-life-sized bronze nude of Emperor Septimius Severus.

Believing that a precious treasure was hidden inside, the farmer attacked the bronze statue of Septimius Severus with a hammer

Septimius Severus

Bearded god with horned helmet (12th century BCE)

The bronze figurines of a horned god and a gesturing god with a shield and spear are from Enkomi, near Famagusta. They are estimated to be around 3,200 years old.

The silver tetradrachm is sometimes referred to as the dollar of antiquity, as they were accepted as a universal currency throughout the Mediterranean

Silver tetradrachms

We won’t see the House of Dionysus in Paphos until tomorrow, but today we can marvel at the treasure found beneath its mosaic floor – 2,484 silver tetradrachms. These coins were worth four drachmas and are sometimes referred to as the dollar of antiquity, as they were accepted as a universal currency throughout the Mediterranean. We can only speculate what happened to the unfortunate owner after he hid his savings.

One beautiful ivory plaque shows a winged sphinx among lotus flowers

Winged sphinx (ivory, 7th century BCE)

Bronze cauldron decorated with griffins and sirens

From the royal tombs of Salamis near Famagusta comes a throne inlaid with ivory, as well as a bed in the same style. The motifs trace back to classical Egypt, which makes sense since Cyprus was under Egyptian rule for a time in the 6th century BCE. One beautiful ivory plaque shows a winged sphinx among lotus flowers. Originally, the openwork ivory was inlaid with coloured paste, but that has now disappeared.

Some reconstructions of tombs teach us that about nine thousand years ago, the deceased were buried under the house. Five thousand years ago, this changed, and the graves were placed outside the house. It wasn't until four thousand years ago that people began using communal cemeteries.

A twist of fate makes this distinctly Greek monument designed by a Turkish Cypriot

Freedom Monument

This brings our visit to a close. We now need Sean to take us to the Famagusta Gate. There, we take a moment to glance at the Liberty Monument. Dating from 1973, it commemorates the bravery of the Greek resistance fighters – ordinary terrorists in the eyes of the British – who made life difficult for the British occupiers in the 1950s. A twist of fate makes this distinctly Greek monument designed by a Turkish Cypriot, as she won the design competition.

 

Archbishop's Palace

Thus we arrive at the Archbishop's Palace, the place where Makarios was when the Greek junta bombed his presidential palace in 1974. In front of the palace stands a statue of Makarios, and under a shelter are the two presidential cars, which bear license plates featuring only the letters AK. These refer to Archiepiskopos Kuprou, Archbishop of Cyprus.

 

Makarios III

Normally, this palace is closed, but today St. George's Day is being celebrated. Exceptionally, the entrance gate is wide open, and visitors are welcome. At least, that is, for Cypriots. As soon as we show up, the guard emerges from beneath his leafy tree to order us to leave.

The bell tower was only added three hundred years later, for the simple reason that before that, the Catholics were not allowed by the Ottomans to ring a bell

St. John's Cathedral

Mausoleum of the 500 Martyrs

Next to the palace stands the tiny St. John's Cathedral, so small that it hardly deserves the name cathedral. Dating back to the 16th century, it seems the Catholic minority couldn't raise enough money for a larger building. Interestingly, the bell tower was only added three hundred years later, in 1865, for the simple reason that before that, the Catholics were not allowed by the Ottomans to ring a bell.

A bit further away lies the church of a former Augustinian monastery, which was razed to the ground after the 1571 invasion to make way for the Ömeriye Mosque. The Muslims had good reason for this, as according to tradition, the grave of Umar ibn al-Khattab, the second caliph, was located here. While they were at it, they also built a bathhouse, the Hamam Ömeriye, across the street.

 

Hamam Ömeriye

In its current form, the Panagia Phaneromenis dates back to 1872. It is the largest church within the city walls of Nicosia. According to Greek tradition, the Ottomans intended to convert it into a mosque, but this never succeeded. Every time they appointed an imam, he died within a year.

Pasha Küçük Mehmet ordered the city walls of Nicosia to be closed and had 470 prominent citizens executed, including the archbishop

In the shadow of this church stands a mausoleum commemorating the events of 9 July 1821. By then, the Greek War of Independence had broken out, and Küçük Mehmet, the local pasha, became furious when the Greek Cypriots began to stir. That day, he ordered the city walls of Nicosia to be closed and had 470 prominent citizens executed, including three bishops and Archbishop Kyprianos, who was publicly hanged from a tree. Antonía refers to these events as the execution of the five hundred martyrs.

A pleasant surprise is the Leventis Museum. It is a private initiative housed in several traditional homes on Hippocrates Street, focusing entirely on the history of Nicosia, starting from 3,900 BCE. Just two years after its opening in 1989, it won the European Museum of the Year Award.

 

Leventis Museum

Much attention is given to the French period when the Lusignans ruled here, and to the subsequent century under the Venetians. Particularly, the transition between these two eras produced one of those remarkable stories that Cyprus seems to specialise in. A story featuring a certain Caterina Cornaro in the leading role. As a scion of one of the wealthiest Venetian patrician families, she would become an important pawn in the geopolitical game of the Republic of Venice.

As a scion of one of the wealthiest Venetian patrician families, Caterina Cornaro would become an important pawn in the geopolitical game of the Republic of Venice

At the end of the 15th century, it was Jacques II who ruled the Frankish Kingdom of Cyprus. However, his throne was on shaky ground. As the illegitimate son of the previous king, many believed he had no rightful claim to the throne. So, Jacques sought a strong ally. Venice, on the other hand, had long had its eyes on Cyprus. The Venetians could not imagine a better foothold for their trade with the Middle East and the Silk Road. Thus, they put forward Caterina Cornaro as the bride for the King of Cyprus. The Cornaro family was very much in favour of this, given their significant commercial interests on the island. In short, everyone was satisfied.

As was often the case during that time, they took no chances and arranged a proxy marriage in 1468 in Venice – a ceremony in which the groom himself was not present but was represented by a trusted person. In September 1472, Caterina finally landed in Famagusta. That very day, the marriage was formalised in the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas – now known as the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque, as we learned yesterday.

Jacques II and Catherine Cornaro were married by proxy in 1468

Then, disaster struck. Within a year of their marriage, Jacques II passed away. A few months later, his son was born. They wasted no time and promptly declared the baby as King Jacques III, with his mother, Caterina, acting as regent. However, the young king did not live to see his first birthday. Caterina was declared the reigning queen, supported by a council of regents... who were appointed by Venice.

Still, Venice was not at ease. Caterina had managed to become quite popular with the Cypriots. What if she developed too much independence? Or worse, what if she married a son of the king of their arch-enemy, Naples? Politely but firmly, Caterina was shown the door. In 1489, she officially handed over her crown to the Doge of Venice. The rest is history – in 1571, Venice had to surrender to the Ottomans.

It’s half past two when we leave Nicosia behind and head to Larnaca, as there are still a few things to visit in the area. The weather is beautiful, with not a cloud in the sky.

The unique aspect of the beautiful Panagia tis Angeloktistis is that the church was built by angels at night

Panagia tis Angeloktistis

About twelve kilometres southwest of Larnaca lies the village of Kiti. According to local tradition, the inhabitants of Kition retreated here after growing weary of the constant Arab attacks on the coast. It has become a very special place, as a gem of an 11th-century Byzantine church awaits us – the beautiful Panagia tis Angeloktistis. The unique aspect of this church is the legend that it was built overnight by angels.

Today, an event company is preparing the church for a wedding celebration, but they kindly allow us inside to take a look. It turns out to be a cross-in-square church, with a floor plan in the shape of a square cross and a dome above the central crossing.

The overwhelming interior leaves us speechless

Panagia tis Angeloktistis – Iconostasis

We enter the building through a fairly modest 14th-century family chapel. It’s only upon reaching the central section that we realise why this small church is so renowned. The overwhelming interior leaves us speechless. In particular, the centuries-old iconostasis irresistibly draws all attention. The refined figures, set against a background of gold leaf, are of exceptional quality. These icons likely date back to the 12th century, as do the frescoes on the walls. The compact Romanesque architecture, with its rounded arches in natural stone, gives the interior a sense of intimacy. Sunlight streams in almost exclusively through the windows in the dome. A stunning chandelier adds some extra light.

 

 

Although the church dates back to the 11th century, it is said to have been built on the foundations of a 6th-century basilica. That earlier basilica may have been destroyed by Arab invaders who reached this far inland, but it’s also possible that the basilica, with its wooden roof, fell victim to flames, given the frequent use of candles. Whatever the case, the apse, the semicircular recess at the front of the church where the altar is located, survived the disaster and therefore dates back to the 6th century.

 

 

And that is a fabulous realisation, as it means that the mosaics in the apse's dome also date back to the 6th century. This makes them contemporaneous with the world-famous mosaics of Ravenna. Even more, experts place the mosaics of Kiti on the same qualitative level as their Italian counterparts. Antonía points out that they were created before the period of iconoclasm, which means the artists were not yet confined by strict rules and regulations, allowing them a certain degree of artistic freedom. This level of artistic expression is unparalleled elsewhere in Cyprus.

 

Iconostasis, apse

Mosaic of the Virgin Mary as Hodegetria

What we see when we look through the door of the iconostasis up at the ceiling of the apse is a standing Mary with the child Jesus on her left arm, flanked by the archangels Michael and Gabriel on either side. Antonía explains that you won’t see Mary in just any pose on icons. In fact, only three standard depictions exist. The form we are witnessing here is called the Hodegetria – She who shows the way.

Experts place the mosaics of Kiti on the same qualitative level as those of Ravenna

Mosaic of the Virgin Mary as Hodegetria

Mary is wearing a blue undergarment, symbolising her humanity, and over it, a red mantle, representing the divine love with which God has clothed her. However, there is no sign of affection between Mother and Child. They do not look at each other but directly at the viewer. Jesus is not depicted as a child but as a small adult. With her right hand, Mary points to her Son, as if to say, He is the Way. In turn, Jesus makes a blessing gesture with his right hand while holding a scroll of the Holy Scriptures in his left. All of these elements are characteristic of a Hodegetria.

The rough walls of natural stone seem to form a rough shell that protects the precarious contents

 

As we walk around the church, we notice the chunky, compact architecture of this Romanesque structure. The rough stone walls, with a few tiny windows, seem to form a rough shell that protects its delicate interior. True beauty must lie within, we conclude.

 

Larnaca Salt Lake

For flamingos, the salt lake of Larnaca is an important stopover on their migratory route. Ten thousand of them settle here, at least during the winter, but today there are no more than about thirty wading in the salty water. For centuries, this lake was a significant source of salt production. The locals allowed seawater to evaporate and collected the salt in baskets that were carried away by donkeys. Antonía still remembers the bright white pyramids of salt on the shores of the lake. However, rising costs and pollution led to the decline of production in the early 1990s. Nowadays, it is a nature reserve.

The mosque of Hala Sultan Tekke is one of the holiest sites in Islam

Hala Sultan Tekke

At four o'clock, we reach Hala Sultan Tekke, a small mosque set among greenery and palm trees on the shores of the salt lake. This is not just any mosque; it is one of the holiest sites in Islam. The shrine is dedicated to Hala Sultan, a woman who participated fervently in the Arab raids on the coastal population of Cyprus in the 7th century. Unfortunately, this proved fatal for her, as she fell from her mule and lost her life. This might have been nothing more than a tragic anecdote, were it not for the fact that Hala Sultan was an aunt of the prophet Muhammad on his mother’s side. When a woman of stature falls from her mount, it does not go unnoticed. Just ask Mary of Burgundy.

When a woman of stature falls from her mount, it does not go unnoticed. Just ask Mary of Burgundy

Unfortunately, Hala Sultan did not fall in what is now the Turkish zone of Cyprus, which means the influx of Muslims is rather limited. Nonetheless, a visit to this mosque must be taken very seriously. Male and female knees must not be exposed (Article 1 of the regulations). The same applies to shoulders of both genders (Article 2). Anyone who thinks he can conceal such obvious shortcomings by wrapping a scarf, pareo or the like around his loins will not be admitted either. And above all, it is prohibited to discuss these points with the mosque guards (Article 8).

 

Hala Sultan Tekke

Our ranks are therefore somewhat thinned when we enter the recently restored mosque. However, our visit still ends in disappointment. We are not granted access to the area surrounding the tomb of Hala Sultan. The reason for this is unclear. We take a stroll around the mosque and, at the back, we discover that you can catch a glimpse of something that might be the back of the tomb through a window between the bars.

 

 

Lefkara, a village six hundred meters high in the mountains, is our next destination. Before we begin the long climb, we pass a turnoff for Golden Donkeys Farm, a farm where various products are made from donkey milk. A litre of donkey milk costs €35. That must have cost Cleopatra quite a penny, as if we remember correctly, she took a bath in donkey milk every day.

If we remember correctly, Cleopatra took a bath in donkey milk every day

According to some tourist brochures, the small village of Lefkara is one of Cyprus's best-kept secrets. The houses are built from the local white limestone and are generally still in good condition, giving a picturesque character to the narrow, sloping streets. However, it is primarily the embroidered lace and artisanal silverware that have made the village famous since the Middle Ages.

 

 

Originally, the embroidered lace was made with locally produced silk, but nowadays, linen imported from Ireland is used, Antonía explains. Geometric patterns are employed, sometimes with dyed threads and sometimes outlined. The tradition has now been recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. If we consider buying something, it’s good to know that fixed prices are not the norm here. Negotiating is key, she adds.

 

The lace-making tradition has now been recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage

Lefkara – Lace-making

Shortly after five, we arrive in the village. We are in good company, as both Prince Albert of Monaco and Leonardo da Vinci have visited here – Albert just last week, and Leonardo in 1481. The latter is said to have even purchased a lace cloth for the main altar of the Duomo of Milan, significantly contributing to Lefkara's fame. However, this does not prevent the town from being in decline. More and more residents are moving to Larnaca. At the beginning of this century, there were two thousand people living here, Antonía sighs, but now only 700 remain.

 

Both Prince Albert of Monaco and Leonardo da Vinci have visited here – Albert just last week, and Leonardo in 1481

Lefkara

As we stroll through the sloping streets, we are overcome by a sense of forced historicity. Everything radiates recent innovation and commercial interests – shops and dining establishments set the tone. Where once there was a cozy market square, Hotel Agora has taken its place. A few women, the so-called ploumarisses, sit in front of their shops embroidering. Indeed, the fabric comes from Belgium, confirms a shop owner.

 

 

The atmospheric Timios Stavros Church dates back to the 14th century, but the bell tower was only added in 1857. It is also known as the Church of the Holy Cross because a very special cross is preserved in a niche of the iconostasis. This cross is completely covered in silver, featuring relief depictions of angels and scenes from the life of Jesus, but also – curiously – the image of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great and his mother, Saint Helena. What makes this cross particularly special is the fact that it supposedly contains a splinter from the historic cross on which Jesus was crucified. Devout believers do not hesitate to kiss the glass that shields the niche.

What makes this cross special is the fact that it supposedly contains a splinter from the historic cross on which Jesus was crucified

Timios Stavros Church

Holy Cross with splinter relic

Iconostasis – “Christ has risen”

Sean now sets course for the southwest coast, specifically to Limassol. In the bay of Akrotiri, a large cruise ship is anchored. It is the Costa Mediterranea, built in 2003 under the motto Mai visto niente di simile – You've never seen anything like it, and in better times, it could accommodate 2,114 passengers. But today, it floats idly here due to a lack of passengers. This is not so unusual, Antonía notes. During the COVID pandemic, as many as a dozen large cruise ships were anchored here.

At twenty past six, we reach our hotel on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea, about nine kilometres east of the centre of Limassol.

Menus are usually bilingual – English and Russian

In search of dinner in this predominantly tourist area, we notice that menus are usually bilingual – English and Russian. To accommodate their Russian guests, some restaurants even include borscht on the menu, a deep red beet soup with potatoes and cabbage, served with sour cream. A spicy detail – borscht is originally a Ukrainian dish.

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Jaak Palmans
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