Do guillemots envy puffins?

Russia | Anno 2019

 

Thursday 1 August | Petropavlovsk – Avacha Bay

Saturday 3 August | Petropavlovsk

 

 

Thursday 1 August | Petropavlovsk – Avacha Bay

The dirtiest city in all of Russia. That was the verdict when the distant Petropavlovsk received high visit from Moscow in 2010. A painful realization, considering the central government had allocated 3.5 billion roubles to finance the construction of new earthquake-resistant homes. So, what had happened with that money?

What had happened with 3.5 billion roubles the central government had allocated to finance the construction of new earthquake-resistant homes?

As far as we can judge, the reprimand didn't miss its mark. While we may not immediately recommend Petropavlovsk for a city trip, blatant examples of gross neglect are no longer to be seen.

Guide Christina will lead us through the old city, the district where the first explorers set foot ashore back in the day. But first we will pay a short visit to the Central Market. The weather looks promising, with white clouds against a blue sky and the sun shining over the city.

Petropavlovsk owes its existence entirely to the presence of Avacha Bay, the only significant natural harbour on the east coast of Kamchatka. It was here that ships could safely anchor, stock up on fresh drinking water, and carry out necessary repairs. The first wooden huts appeared from 1740 onwards. Gradually, the settlement became a wintering place for seal and whale hunters, and an important base for explorers venturing into the northern reaches of the Pacific Ocean and the North American coast. Because the contemporary coastal area of Alaska and the Inside Passage was first colonized by the Russians, not by the Americans. In the early 19th century, Petropavlovsk had 180 inhabitants in summer and 300 to 400 in winter.

Foreigners were barred, and even most Russians were no longer allowed entry

After the Second World War, Petropavlovsk became a closed military area. Foreigners were barred, and even most Russians were no longer allowed entry. This was all due to the fact that from 1938, the Soviets had been building a base for diesel submarines in nearby Vilyuchinsk. High wages and other benefits were meant to attract the necessary workers to keep this infrastructure running.

That worked quite well until 1989 when the Berlin Wall fell and a year later, the Soviet Union also collapsed. The generous flow of money to Petropavlovsk came to an end, unemployment skyrocketed, living standards visibly declined, and mass migration began. While Petropavlovsk had 300,000 inhabitants in 1990, there were only 181,216 in 2018.

 

Meat market

Although Petropavlovsk lies at the same latitude as the German city of Bremen, the region, like the rest of Siberia, is classified as having a subarctic climate. However, the nearby ocean exerts a moderating influence. In summer, you can expect an average temperature of 15 °C (59 °F), while winters drop to around -10°C (14 °F).

Like the rest of Siberia, Kamchatka is classified as having a subarctic climate

These temperatures might not immediately appeal to tourists, one might say. Yet, ecotourism has been a significant focus for Petropavlovsk since the 1990s. They keenly promote the pristine nature of Kamchatka with its bears and volcanoes as their unique asset. And rightfully so, in our opinion.

However, the fishing industry remains the primary economic activity of the capital for now. We'll quickly notice this when Christina drops us off around half past ten near the Central Market, a contemporary shopping centre spread across several numbered shopping halls. Remarkable is the emphasis on hygiene in the operation of the huge fresh food markets. You could practically eat off the floor. Kilos of meat are ready and waiting in chilled display cases behind glass and plastic wrap. Animals are slaughtered on-site and then freshly cut.

 

Meat market

But it's, of course, the fish market that fascinates us. An entire hall is dedicated to it. Dozens of stalls display their goods there. Yet, the variety is not particularly vast. Shellfish are scarce, but there's plenty of salmon. Ordering salmon here requires some explanation. Do you want the expensive Chinook salmon or the cheaper Pink salmon? Or something in between, like Chum salmon, Coho salmon, or Sockeye salmon? Do you prefer it dried or smoked? Salted or low-salt? Fresh, canned, or vacuum-packed?

Do you want the expensive Chinook salmon or the cheaper Pink salmon? Or something in between, like Chum salmon, Coho salmon, or Sockeye salmon?

Salmon roe also comes in various types, as evidenced by the numerous white bins presenting the ‘red caviar’

Roe from Chum salmon (at the back), and from Chinook salmon (at the front)

King crab legs

A similar situation applies to salmon roe. They also come in various types, as evidenced by the numerous white bins presenting the red caviar – as salmon roe is fondly called here. Spontaneously, we're offered a few samples to taste the difference because there are quality variances, thus price differences too. For instance, a kilogram of Chinook salmon roe costs 3,600 roubles or approximately 51 euros. On the other hand, you can get a kilogram of Pink salmon roe for 2,600 roubles or about 37 euros.

 

Fish market

Smoked sockeye, smoked halibut

King crab is, of course, a must-have at a market like this. You can buy them whole in large plastic bags or just the legs, neatly cut and without shells, in plastic boxes. In the latter case, you'll pay around 1,600 roubles or 23 euros for four hundred grams. You can store king crab in frozen condition for up to two and a half years, the saleswoman assures us.

 

Chinook salmon, Sockeye salmon, Coho salmon, Chum salmon

Involuntarily, the question arises in our minds about which customers can afford such products, considering the precarious economic situation of Petropavlovsk. Nowadays, the average monthly salary is approximately 35,000 to 40,000 roubles, estimates Christina. So, about 500 to 570 euros. It seems to us that few would be inclined to spend a full day's wages on a portion of king crab.

Each of these products comes from China because Kamchatka itself cannot produce them

Vegetable and fruit market

The vegetable and fruit market also exudes an almost clinical cleanliness. The variety of offerings is overwhelming, from winter vegetables to tropical fruits. Each of these products comes from China because Kamchatka itself cannot produce them. As far as there is fertile land, it is usually taken up by small vegetable gardens where people grow their own vegetables for personal use. It's far from crowded here. If we don't count ourselves, we see more sellers than customers in the hall.

 

Vegetable and fruit market

At half past eleven, we descend by bus to the old city, the place where it all began in the past. Exploring all of Petropavlovsk on foot is not feasible. From north to south, the elongated city with its broad avenues, open buildings, and predominant low-rise structures measures about fifteen kilometres. But a stroll along the main street is a must.

As a starting point, Christina has chosen the Lenin statue at Lenin Square at the beginning of Lenin Boulevard. You certainly can't miss it; the nomenclature of the Soviets is still prominently present in the cityscape. Street names like Leninskaya, Sovetskaya, Karla Marksa, Oktyabrya, Partizanskaya... testify abundantly to this fact.

It's estimated that you can still find approximately 1,800 statues of Lenin scattered throughout Russia

Lenin statue

Stele ‘City of Military Glory’

It's an impressive statue, probably about twelve meters high if you include the enormous pedestal. Lenin is depicted in a resolute posture, gazing determinedly into the distance, with his coat gently fluttering in the wind. As estimated, you can still find approximately 1,800 statues of Lenin scattered throughout Russia, although occasionally one is brought down.

Petropavlovsk is proud to be a City of Military Glory

A little further stands an enormous stele. Another relic from the Soviet era, it seems. However, the Soviet Union had already ceased to exist a quarter of a century ago when this monument was erected in 2015. It reminds us that Petropavlovsk is proud to be a City of Military Glory. The official reason for this is the heroic courage, steadfastness, and massive heroism shown by the defenders of the city in the struggle for the freedom and independence of the motherland.

Only 45 cities of the Russian Federation have been bestowed with this honour to date. Regarding Petropavlovsk, it concerns the way the city defended itself against the Japanese in the Second World War. It must be that the relationship with Japan has improved since then, judging by the many cars with right-hand drive. Because that indicates that they have been imported from Japan.

It was Vitus Bering who laid the foundation of the city in 1740. In 1729, during his first Kamchatka expedition, he had already extensively visited and mapped Avacha Bay. Now he wanted to establish a base for his expedition. Because he was once again sent out by the Tsar to determine whether Siberia and Alaska were connected by a land bridge, despite the fact that the Russian Semion Dezhnev had already discovered the passage in 1648 which we now call the Bering Strait.

It was Vitus Bering who laid the foundation of the city in 1740

Saint Peter and Saint Paul

The ships with which Bering entered the bay were called Saint Peter and Saint Paul. Hence the name Petropavlovsk for the new settlement, Christina explains. A statue for both patron saints was not on the agenda for the Soviets. It wasn't until 2005 that action was taken on that front. Now they stand there, with the eight-armed Russian Orthodox cross between them, just a stone's throw away from the resolute Lenin. It's only now that we notice he's facing the other way.

For Bering himself, this second Kamchatka expedition ultimately ended fatally. On Avacha Island, only a few hundred kilometres from Kamchatka, his shipwreck occurred, and he died of scurvy, along with much of his crew. It wasn't until 1991 that the remains of Bering and some of his expedition members were located. The island has since been named Bering Island.

We stroll southward through the old city via the gently sloping Leninskaya Street. There's nothing left of the original wooden houses. Cold, functional architecture, which Soviet architects seemed to have a patent on, has taken their place. Rarely do you feel like you're in a bustling capital. Although imposing government buildings occasionally remind us of that administrative function.

There's nothing left of the original wooden houses. Cold, functional architecture has taken their place

Government building of the Kamchatka Region

There's for instance the large building of the Kamchatka region government. At the top of the facade, Christina points out the region's coat of arms to us. Three smoking volcanoes of unequal size adorn it against a background of a fiery red, setting sun over a rippling blue ocean. It couldn't be more expressive. However, we miss the face of Kamchatka's most famous inhabitant.

 

Flag of the Kamchatka Region

Coat of arms of the Kamchatka Region

Flag of the City of Petropavlovsk

The region's flag also follows this theme – two horizontal bands, white and blue, with three smoking volcanoes in front of a red sun. The city flag of Petropavlovsk, on the other hand, reduces the message to its essence – three smoking volcanoes.

A visit to a souvenir shop is, of course, essential. Immediately, we notice the artistically carved bones displayed in the shop window. Ivory, you might think, given their colour. However, that's not the case, as the artworks are several tens of centimetres long without showing the usual curvature. They are walrus penises, if we are to believe the caption.

 

Carved walrus penis bones

Alexander Nevsky Church

However, that's not entirely accurate either. In fact, it's a baculum or penis bone, a bone found in the penis of many mammals. It is believed to facilitate reproduction by maintaining sufficient stiffness during penetration. Apparently, Homo sapiens is one of the mammals that doesn't need assistance in that regard. Nonetheless, walruses are known to have the largest baculum, with lengths of fifty centimetres or more. According to the same caption, the Koryaks and Chukchi, two indigenous peoples, are said to have used these bones as weapons. Hopefully, only in a ceremonial capacity, as they are far too beautiful to be used in brutal violence.

Stalin had the original church demolished in 1937

Alexander Nevsky Church

A small church next to a park, a stone's throw from Leninskaya, catches our attention. Its entirely wooden construction suggests that it might be one of the original buildings of the old city. However, appearances can be deceiving; the church only appeared here in 2007. Its predecessor, on the other hand, dated back to 1854. In the context of the Crimean War, the Russians had achieved a victory over the Franco-British forces in the Pacific. Such an accomplishment naturally warranted the construction of a church. But Stalin saw it differently. Religion was seen as pernicious; it hindered the development of a truly socialist society. Therefore, he had the church demolished in 1937.

 

Alexander Nevsky was voted as the greatest Russian of all time

Alexander Nevsky Church – Iconostasis

Today, the church is dedicated to Alexander Nevsky, the beloved holy prince who in 2008 was voted as the greatest Russian of all time. Perhaps the tiny church owes its popularity to this fact, as it’s quite busy inside. It's mainly women, always with a scarf around their heads, who stand here to pray and lean over the lectern to kiss the icon.

 

M/V Kathleen

By bus, we continue to the harbour of Bogorodskoye Ozero Bay because we have an exciting boat trip in Avacha Bay ahead of us. It's quarter past one when we are dropped off, and we navigate our way among rusty boats on the dock. Captain Oleg welcomes us aboard the M/V Kathleen. It's a strange name, even in Latin script, for an old blue vessel with Petropavlovsk as its home port. Christina explains that this boat once belonged to a British lady who was so enthusiastic after visiting Kamchatka that she donated the boat to Lost World Tours, the travel company with which we are currently touring.

The concept of sustainability is likely as exotic to the average Russian as the concept of vegetarianism is to an Argentine

Bogorodskoye Ozero Harbour

Apartment buildings

Bogorodskoye Ozero Harbour

Onboard, our lunch is ready – fresh fish soup with bread. Then the Palmyra docks next to the Kathleen, with Andrei as the captain. A greater contrast than that between the blue vessel and the white yacht is hard to imagine. Apparently, our group needs to split between the two boats, with eight people per boat. Those boarding the Palmyra must take off their shoes and put on garish Crocs.

For centuries, the Avacha Bay was the main, if not the only, gateway to Kamchatka

 

Just before two o'clock, we set sail, heading towards the vast Avacha Bay. It's known as one of the largest bays in the world, with an area of 215 square kilometres, making it four times larger than Sydney Harbour in Australia. For centuries, this was the main, if not the only, gateway to Kamchatka. It wasn't until aviation took off that the bay lost its monopoly. Nowadays, passenger transport is mainly done by plane, but fishermen and cargo ships still come and go. And, of course, the vessels of the Russian Pacific Fleet based in Vladivostok also navigate these waters. Nuclear submarines even have absolute priority. Whenever a submarine enters or leaves the bay, surface traffic in the bay is strictly prohibited. This can sometimes cause inconvenience if you want to go out. But fortunately, that's not the case today.

Whenever a Russian submarine enters or leaves the bay, surface traffic in the bay is strictly prohibited

Buoys and metal nets to prevent US submarines from entering Avacha Bay

Avacha Bay, M/V Kathleen

Behind us, the harbour gradually fades from view. It's a strange amalgamation of seaworthy boats, rusty hulls, and ominous cranes. Some boats lean so precariously that they seem to only need a nudge to capsize. Is it a harbour we're looking at, or is it a graveyard? Or is it both? Russians and waste management, it remains a challenging combination. The concept of sustainability is likely as exotic to the average Russian as the concept of vegetarianism is to an Argentine.

 

 

Captain Oleg maintains a course fairly close to the eastern coast of the bay. The hills are largely forested and often end in high cliffs that steeply descend to the water. However, there are still traces of human presence here and there. Somewhere, a fisherman is busy with the traps he uses to catch king crabs. A peculiar sight is the red buoys and metal nets dropped on a beach. That's a remnant of the Cold War when the Russians found it necessary to close off the bay to prevent US submarines from taking a look.

 

Pigeon guillemot		Black-legged kittiwake
Tufted puffin		Guillemot

Gradually, the human impact on the inhospitable coast diminishes, and we approach the realm of seabirds. Some rocky outcrops are occupied by small colonies of seagulls. Occasionally, a puffin flies by, or a solitary pigeon guillemot, easily recognizable by the white spot on its brown wing and its bright red legs. Pigeon guillemots prefer to nest in burrows along rocky coasts. They catch their prey by pursuing them deep underwater. They themselves are quite sedentary, opting for the same burrow and partner year after year.

Above Cape Stanitsky, we vaguely see the silhouette of the Vilyuchinsky through the mists

Stanitsky Bay, Vilyuchinsky

On the opposite side of the bay, Cape Stanitsky makes its appearance, fifty meters high, with a white lighthouse at the very top. For ships entering or leaving the bay, this is an important landmark. Above the bay of the same name, we vaguely see the silhouette of the Vilyuchinsky through the mists. It's quite remarkable since that volcano is about 35 km away. The weather is beautiful, with only a few clouds in a mostly blue sky.

At the foot of that enormous promontory, two high rock masses stand freely in the sea. Such detached natural rock formations in the shape of a cone or a pillar are common on the coasts of Eastern Siberia. The Russians even have a name for them – kekuri. For seabirds, these sea stacks are beloved places to rest, breed, and raise their chicks. They are safe there, as they don't have to fear foxes and other predators.

Some people believe they see in the rock mass a scarf wrapped around the head of an old woman

Baboesjkin Kamen (links)

Further to the west, a massive detached rock mass emerges. The steeply sloping plateau appears to be completely occupied by birds, most likely seagulls, although we can't see clearly from this distance. Some believe they recognize in the rock mass a scarf wrapped around the head of an old woman. Hence, the island is called Babushkin Kamen, which translates to Grandma's Stone. However, the real treasures of this island remain hidden from us. It's the numerous underwater caves with their specific fauna and flora – anemones, starfish, sea urchins, sea cucumbers, sponges, polyps – that make this area a diver's paradise.

 

Tufted puffin

Spotted seal

For a brief moment, while we’re approaching the entrance of the bay, a spotted seal emerges from the water. Curiously, the timid creature surveys the surroundings before disappearing again. However, we catch no glimpse of its beautiful spotted body. Spotted seals and harbour seals are close relatives, differing mainly in their preferred habitats. Spotted seals prefer to inhabit ice floes in the Arctic region or the cold waters of the Siberian continental shelf.

Legend has it that three brothers once managed to repel a tsunami, thus saving the local population

Tri Brata

Gradually, we approach the most popular attraction of the Avacha Bay, three enormous sea stacks at the entrance of the bay. They are named Tri Brata or Three Brothers. Tsunamis occasionally ravage the shores of Kamchatka. After all, we find ourselves here on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, right on the Ring of Fire, where earthquakes and volcanic eruptions are a daily occurrence. Legend has it that three brothers once managed to repel a tsunami, thus saving the local population. They enjoyed their task so much that they have since continued to perform it in petrified form.

 

Indeed, true acrobats they are; even the smallest ledges suffice for the black-legged kittiwakes to build their nests upon

 

In fact, these are not solid rocks, but rather conglomerates of smaller stones still susceptible to erosion. The result is a rough, uneven surface, which is exactly what black-legged kittiwakes are keen on. They are true acrobats, and even the smallest protrusions are sufficient for them to build a nest. Both parents work together in this process – first laying a layer of mud to create a platform, then constructing an upstanding wall around the nest to prevent the eggs from rolling out, and finally adding a layer of soft and dry materials such as moss, grass, or seaweed for insulation. After compacting it all together, the nest is ready. Despite all this parental care, chicks sometimes don't hesitate to push their younger siblings out of the nest, believing they will then receive more food themselves.

 

Tri Brata

Three toes at the front of the foot, but no toe at the back like all other gulls – that is the trademark of the black-legged kittiwake. However, from a distance, this characteristic is of no use if you want to distinguish them from other gulls. Therefore, they are mainly recognized by the black, triangular tips of their wings. They also stand out with their dark legs compared to Kamchatka gulls, whose legs are rather pinkish.

Black-legged kittiwakes are not landlubbers. They prefer to roam over open sea

The fact that we find these gulls here is related to the breeding season. Because black-legged kittiwakes are not landlubbers. They prefer to roam over open sea. But breeding must be done on land. So every year in May, they reluctantly settle on these rocks to breed and raise their chicks. Once that task is done, they are away for eight months from September.

 

 

The loud cries of this lively colony should not make us forget that the black-legged kittiwake species is not doing well. Since the 1970s, the global population has declined by 40%. Adapting quickly to fluctuations in the food supply is not something kittiwakes do well. Overfishing by humans is one of the major culprits. It's important to remember that a colony of, say, ten thousand individuals needs at least a ton of fish every day. However, climate change is also playing a role. Because the warmer the seawater, the less food is available.

The black-legged kittiwake species is not doing well

Black-legged kittiwakes

Red-faced cormorants

But they don't have the realm to themselves here, these black-legged kittiwakes. A small colony of red-faced cormorants has claimed their place on the steep cliffs. The bare facial skin around the eyes of these cormorants is brightly coloured orange or red, hence their name. They feel at home everywhere along the long island arc from Japan's Hokkaido through the Kuril Islands and the Aleutian Islands to Alaska. The fact that there are so many gulls around here is a bonus, as red-faced cormorants like to use gull feathers to make a warm nest.

Inside the mysterious white spheres, radar installations of an air defence system are hidden

Radar installations on Bezymyannaya

Cape Stanitsky

Captain Oleg has now turned the helm of the Kathleen southwestward. We have left the Avacha Bay behind us, now sailing close to the coast in open sea. To the right rises the Bezymyannaya, the Nameless, towering over us at more than three hundred meters. Erosion has heavily affected the hill on the seaside, the ever-pounding salty water has exposed a huge scar of orange and white-grey rock in the green slope.

 

Black-legged kittiwake

Tufted puffin

But it's primarily the mysterious white spheres, situated right at the top of the ridge, that capture our attention. Inside them are radar installations hidden from view, part of an air defence system. Day and night, they scan the surroundings in search of potential adversaries. Once, a Russian military unit with SAM S 125 surface-to-air missiles was stationed there as well.

 

Vilyuchinsky, Bezymyannaya Bay

It serves as a reminder of the great geostrategic importance of Kamchatka. In a straight line, we are closer here to San Francisco than to Moscow. Alaska, which was long held by the Russians, was sold to the United States for a pittance by Tsar Alexander II in 1867. It was a colossal blunder, considering that Alaska is now the richest state in the USA in terms of natural resources. Allegedly, Kamchatka was also considered for sale at that time. Imagine if that sale had gone through and it was the USA, not the USSR, that developed a naval base in Petropavlovsk. What would have become of Japan's expansionist policy during World War II?

Imagine if the sale of Kamchatka to the USA had gone through

Cape Stanitsky

We can't overlook it anymore – puffins are flying back and forth. They are lightning-fast, their wings flap up and down up to four hundred times per minute, reaching speeds of up to eighty kilometres per hour. Here and there, one floats calmly on the water, giving us the opportunity to observe it more closely.

 

Flight of puffins with guillemot

Undoubtedly, guillemots are quite jealous of puffins because they can't hold more than one fish in their beak

Puffins are to birds what koalas are to marsupials and giant pandas are to mammals – cuddly creatures that immediately capture everyone's sympathy. They owe much of that to their adorable faces, with those enormous, orange-red bills, the white facial patch, and the yellow tufts over their ears. They only sport those tufts during the breeding season, earning them the name tufted puffins.

 

Karaulny

Their breeding colony is located on Starichkov Island, the island we are now heading towards. There, they feel safe from Arctic foxes and other predators. They nest in deep burrows, which they usually dig out themselves using their feet and... their beak. Quite handy, such a big mouth. Sometimes, they settle for a crevice between rocks. As long as their eggs remain out of reach of predatory gulls, and their chicks out of the watchful eyes of sea eagles.

 

Puffins are to birds what koalas are to marsupials and giant pandas are to mammals – cuddly creatures that immediately capture everyone's sympathy

Tufted puffins with prey

Just like black-legged kittiwakes, tufted puffins prefer to stay above open sea. But during the breeding season, that's not an option. Raising their only chick is the priority now. And that requires a lot of energy. Often, food needs to be brought in from afar. They are excellent divers. With their short wings, they can easily swim ten to fifteen meters deep. On the other hand, those wings are still long enough to swiftly return to the nest. In short, nature has found a perfect compromise here between flying and swimming.

 

Starichkov, Karaulny, Vilyuchinsky

Basalt columns on Starichkov

Constantly, puffins zoom past us, their beaks filled with fish, usually three to six at a time. How they manage that, is anyone's guess. Their beaks are serrated, so it's not difficult to grasp several fish in a firm grip. But grabbing a new fish when you already have a few in your beak seems to be a different story. In any case, the trick saves them a tremendous amount of energy.

 

Colony of black-legged kittiwakes on Karaulny

 

Karaulny

Black-legged kittiwakes with chicks

Often they fly together in groups of ten or twelve. Upon closer inspection, they are not always puffins. Sometimes there are also a few guillemots among them. Undoubtedly, these guillemots envy the puffins because guillemots can only hold one fish in their beak.

 

Tufted puffin

Kamchatka gull

Guillemots, tufted puffins

Guillemot with prey

Then we reach the vicinity of Starichkov Island. It's an ecological gem, with a remarkable forty-four breeding colonies of eleven seabird species, especially puffins and ancient murrelets. The latter actually gave the island its name – starik in Russian. Despite its small size, covering only half a square kilometre, it rises over 147 meters above the sea level. Such steep slopes with soft soil and abundant grass provide an ideal habitat for puffins. Here, they can easily dig their burrows. A slope with yellowish basalt columns reminds us of the volcanic history of the area.

 

A kekur points like a long, narrow finger towards the sky, earning its name Palets or Finger

Colony of black-legged kittiwakes on Palets

In the shallow waters around the island, the rocky seabed is dotted with coastal reefs. Two of these rock formations protrude well above the water even at high tide. One of them points like a long, narrow finger towards the sky, earning the name Palets or Finger. The other is named Karaulny or Watchtower. Both sea stacks have in common that they are teeming with puffins.

Shortly after four o'clock, we round the island and begin our return to Petropavlovsk. Or so it seems, as Oleg has other plans. In the calm waters of the Bukhta Tikhaya or Quiet Bay, surrounded on three sides by high cliffs, the Kathleen and the Palmyra are gently tethered together.

Locals call this protein-rich delicacy sea urchin caviar, but in reality, we are eating ovaries and testes

Sea urchins		M/V Kathleen
		‘Sea urchin caviar’

Immediately, some delicacies surface – both literally and figuratively. Starting with a pile of cooked crab legs. We don't need to be persuaded. Leaning on the railing, we dissect the legs, savour the delicious meat, and drop the shells into the water. But as tasty as they are, these are not king crab legs. Because with those, you can't break the shell with your bare hands. These are legs from snow crabs, a slightly smaller crab species that is much more abundant than king crabs and therefore much cheaper. When you cook the legs of a snow crab, the red meat gradually turns snow-white. Hence its name.

 

Bezymyannaya Bay

We meanwhile notice that this Quiet Bay is used for other purposes as well. Further ahead, a police boat directs another vessel into the bay for some sort of inspection.

 

Guillemots

Red-faced cormorant

Another delicacy awaits us on the wooden floor in a fishing net: sea urchins, fresh and alive. They may not be the seafood that often graces our festive tables, but here these echinoderms are highly prized. In Japan, for instance, around 800 tons is consumed annually.

 

Rock wall with trentepohlia

When you cut open a sea urchin, five orange-red segments arranged neatly in a circle around the central mouth come into view. These are the gonads, or reproductive glands, the only edible parts of the sea urchin. Using a spoon, we loosen and savour each segment one by one. Locals call this protein-rich delicacy sea urchin caviar, but in reality, we are eating ovaries and testes. However, there is hardly any difference between male and female sea urchins, neither in taste nor in shape, texture, or colour.

This juvenile Steller's sea eagle is not one to sit still quietly

Steller’s sea eagle (juvenile)

Sea urchins are widely praised not only for their delicate flavour but also for their medicinal aspects. Liver and thyroid, heart and blood vessels, bones and digestive tract – they all benefit when we regularly consume sea urchins. Even toxins and radionuclides are said to be expelled from our bodies by consuming sea urchins.

Ninety-five percent of the seabed animals did not survive the ecological disaster

What we don’t know yet, is that the latter will come in handy sooner than expected. Because next year, in October 2020, the region will be shocked by a massive die-off of marine animals in the vicinity of Khalaktyrsky Beach. Cadavers of seals, sea urchins, and octopuses will wash up on the shore. Surfers will complain of nausea, sore throats, and burning eyes. Ultimately, it will be revealed that ninety-five percent of the seabed animals did not survive the ecological disaster.

 

Steller’s sea eagle

What the exact cause was, we do not know. The issue is not the lack of a pollution source; the issue is that there are so many potential sources. Here, 20 tons of arsenic are stored, there, a stockpile of 30 tons of rocket fuel, elsewhere, discarded nuclear submarines are parked... But the government is currently attributing it to a natural cause – the sudden growth of algae in the coastal waters.

Meanwhile, Oleg – namesake of the captain – has launched his zodiac into the water. Because he wants to explore this unique environment up close with us. High on the rocks, we spot the enormous nest of a pair of Steller's sea eagles. It is perilously close to the cliff's edge. Luckily, because otherwise, we wouldn't even be able to see it from here. The parents are not home, but the young one is. Probably just six months old, it doesn't yet have the typical black feathers and white shoulder patch. It will have to make do with its juvenile brown feathers for some time. Sitting still is not its forte. It arches its back, stretches out, spreads its wings, but flying, nope, it's not ready for that yet.

Basalt columns form when molten basalt cools rapidly, causing shrinkage cracks in the mass

Basalt columns

Like a fortress with steep walls, the bare rocks rise almost vertically from the water. Here and there, small green plants manage to survive in crevices. Higher up, we see large patches of trentepohlia, the brownish-red green algae that thrive on damp rocks. Their failure to turn green as normal plants should do is due to an excess of carotenoids.

 

Palets

Some crevices lead to actual water caves at the bottom. One of them is even spacious enough to allow our zodiac to pass through the cliff. This leads us to the Avacha Bay where the wind has free rein and the waves are a bit rougher. A massive tilted block with impressive basalt columns quickly catches the eye. Such columns form when molten basalt cools rapidly, causing shrinkage cracks in the mass. Due to the crystallographic structure of basalt, the columns always have a beautiful geometric cross-section, such as a square or a hexagon.

 

 

Higher up on the cliff face, we spot an adult Steller's sea eagle. It's highly likely that this is one of the parents of the juvenile we saw earlier. The sea eagle continues to watch us attentively, although by now it must have realized that we pose no threat. Further along, another kekur stands like a tall finger pointing skyward out into the open sea.

 

 

Shortly after seven, we begin our return journey to Petropavlovsk. It's already half-past eight when we arrive at Hotel Petropavlovsk. In the meantime, the smartphone left behind last Wednesday has found its way back to the hotel.

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Saturday 3 August | Petropavlovsk

The city is shrouded in dense fog, with visibility limited to barely a hundred meters. Helicopter flights seem almost impossible in this weather. We count ourselves lucky that none of our flights were affected by weather conditions, although it was touch and go when we landed on the slope of Mutnovsky.

In 1911, it was realized that these memorabilia deserved a better home

On our last day, we have a brief visit planned to the Regional Museum of Kamchatka. The museum has been around for over a century now. Scientists and explorers left behind many interesting objects during their exploration of the peninsula and the surrounding seas. In 1911, it was realized that these memorabilia deserved a better home. So, space was made in the governor's building. The collection is still housed there, although it now occupies the entire building.

The result is a charming amalgamation of objects, photos, and texts centred around Kamchatka, ranging from quaint dioramas and stuffed animals to mammoth tusks and the upper jaw of an orca, or historical artefacts such as a herbarium leaf from botanist Komarov and cannons from the island where Vitus Bering died. All texts are in Russian, but that's no issue because Nathalia will expertly guide us through the collection.

Historical photos show us what Petropavlovsk looked like around the turn of the previous century when the settlement had about a thousand inhabitants

 

As a way of providing context, she reminds us that Kamchatka as a whole has only three hundred thousand inhabitants, of which sixty percent reside in Petropavlovsk. In terms of population, this peninsula is therefore a vast emptiness. Historical photos show us what Petropavlovsk looked like around the turn of the last century when the settlement had about a thousand inhabitants.

Considerable attention is paid to both stuffed and unstuffed animal species. We have already become acquainted with bears, salmons, and birds. Here, you can also encounter moose, lynx, beavers, otters, ermines, and minks. But we had never heard of the Steller's sea cow. Like dugongs and manatees, these marine mammals once led inconspicuous lives in shallow waters. They spent their time grazing on the seabed. Unfortunately, we must speak of the Steller's sea cow in the past tense. Because just as the dodo is to birds, the Steller's sea cow is to marine mammals – a few decades after their first encounter with Western humans, they were eradicated.

The local population has become a mix of all these peoples

Petropavlovsk (early 20th century)

Main street (around 1880)

About twenty-five thousand years ago, Homo sapiens appeared on the scene. Much is not known about them. There are certainly no direct descendants of these original inhabitants. This is the case for the Itelmens people who appeared 7,000 years ago and the Koryaks who made their appearance 5,000 years ago. Add to that the Evens who only descended to the peninsula in the 19th century, in search of new pastures for their reindeer, and the picture of the most important indigenous peoples is complete.

Today, the lines between these ethnic groups have blurred, emphasizes Nathalia. The local population has become a mixture of all these peoples. She herself is a striking example of this, with an Itelmen grandmother and a Russian Cossack grandfather.

When Russian explorers appeared in Kamchatka at the end of the 17th century, the inhabitants of the peninsula were still in the Stone Age

When Russian explorers appeared in Kamchatka at the end of the 17th century, the inhabitants of the peninsula were still in the Stone Age. All tools – axes, knives, hoes, arrowheads, scrapers for working hides – were still made of stone, bone, or wood.

 

Church of St. Peter and St. Paul (around 1880)

Elementary school with boarding facilities and teacher’s residence (1921)

For beautiful fur carpets, bags, and clothing, you should visit the Koryaks. Their craftswomen are masterful in making such pieces. In fact, the Koryaks can be divided into two groups. On one hand, you have the nomadic reindeer people, the Chavchuvens. With their herds, they roam the interior. On the other hand, you have the Nymylans who have left behind their nomadic existence and settled on the coast. There is an intensive trade between the two groups.

During the weekend, there are even TV programs in the Koryak language

Today, the Koryaks number around 7,000 and they manage to maintain their culture quite well. Many still speak the language and experience various aspects of their cultural heritage. During the weekend, there are even TV programs in the Koryak language.

 

Snake woman (contortionist)

Acrobat with rings

The Itelmens, on the other hand, are primarily fishermen. From our visit to Kurile Lake, we remember that they lived in semi-submerged yurts with a conical tapered roof. At least in winter, because in summer they moved to stilt houses because the pit dwellings became too humid. Usually, both types of houses stood side by side. Moving was therefore a breeze.

It is said Gomuls always return from fishing with a whale hanging from each finger

Polygamy was accepted among the Itelmens. They did not bury their dead but simply left them. If the dogs then ate them, it was a good sign because it meant that the person had already gone to heaven. Nowadays, there are only around 2,300 Itelmens left, but they no longer speak their language, and their culture is hardly addressed anymore, apart from an annual festival. Despite her background, Nathalia has little good to say about the Itelmens.

 

Reindeer hunter

Both the Itelmens, the Korjaks, and the Evens are animists. Hence the Itelmen totem poles we saw last week during our passage on the Vilyuchinsky Pass, although those are recent creations. They represent the Gomuls, powerful mountain demons whom the Itelmens believe reside on the peaks of the volcanoes. Every night they head to the sea to catch whales. This works wonders, as it is said they always return with a whale hanging from each finger. At the top of their volcano, they then prepare the whales over a fire. That explains why there is always a glow visible at the top of the volcano. Undoubtedly, the area up there is full of whale bones, but the Itelmen people are too afraid to go check it out.

The farewell lunch they have prepared for us at the hotel is much more modest but equally original, with kelp as an appetizer followed by cream soup with cheese and scallops, and breaded octopus. Around half past one, we depart for the airport of Yelizovo for the flight to Moscow. It is raining lightly, but we are not bothered anymore.

Naughty children were sometimes relegated to the back of the class as punishment. They were then called Kamchatki’s, equating to pariahs banished far from civilization

Whether the story of the so-called Kamtsjatki's in elementary schools has any basis in truth, we inquire. Christina can't help but smile when she hears the question, but she nods in agreement. West of the Urals, in the European part of Russia, it did indeed happen that naughty children were sometimes relegated to the back of the class as punishment. They were then called Kamchatki’s, equating to pariahs banished far from civilization.

A distant land of outcasts is not the memory we cherish. We prefer to remember the greeting we could read on Nathalia's T-shirt in the museum: From Kamchatka with love.

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Jaak Palmans
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