Mother Earth's precious treasures
New Zealand | Anno 2019
Wednesday, March 13 | Tongariro National Park – Wellington
Thursday, March 14 | Wellington
Wednesday, March 13 | Tongariro National Park – Wellington
The delightful autumn sunshine has disappeared, replaced by pouring rain. No more sweeping views of valleys and volcanoes; mist limits visibility to a few hundred meters. We were fortunate to have clear weather yesterday.
We make our way along the slopes of Ruapehu, heading for Highway 4. It's half past eight when we reach the sunny town of Ohakune at the foot of Ruapehu. Where adventures begin, reads a sign by the road. This applies to the local amusement park but also to Ohakune itself. The town is a popular winter sports destination. During the winter months, Kiwis like to descend on the volcanic plateau for a ski vacation.
Being welcomed on the outskirts of the town by a pair of giant skis wouldn’t surprise us. But no, here they showcase a colossal carrot, standing at an impressive four meters high. Aptly named Big Carrot, its purpose is to draw attention to vegetable cultivation in general and carrot farming in particular.
We are still on the foothills of Ruapehu. When a spectacular eruption occurred in September 1995, volcanic ash even drifted down here, more than 25 km away from the crater. Such volcanic soil is naturally very fertile. While growing vegetables in the national park is strictly prohibited, there are no such restrictions here. They proudly call themselves New Zealand's Carrot Capital. Two-thirds of the national carrot production comes from here.
We continue our journey across the rolling green landscape. On our left, the majestic Ruapehu stubbornly remains hidden behind the clouds. The open fields often teem with sheep. On the North Island, the herds are relatively small, averaging 1,600 sheep. On the South Island, however, they are much more numerous, with flocks sometimes totalling ten thousand individuals. Throughout the day, they graze outside, following a rotation system that involves different paddocks.
To keep the wool clean, the tail is docked a few weeks after birth, allowing it to die off
Sheep shearing occurs every six to nine months. To keep the wool clean, the tail is docked a few weeks after birth, allowing it to die off. Without this practice, the wagging tail could spread faeces, contaminating the wool. By and large, sheep farming is not doing well. Wool is facing increasing competition from synthetic materials.
It seems like a peaceful journey until, just before nine, we catch sight of several military tanks. This turns out to be the National Army Museum of Waiouru, situated on a military base. New Zealand maintains a professional army of eleven thousand personnel, supplemented by 3,500 volunteers. While not a large army, Kiwis believe it is unnecessary given the absence of imminent threats in this remote corner of the world. There is no mention of terrorist threats in this area. Little do we know that this standpoint will be contradicted in just 48 hours.
However, the Kiwi army provides assistance in emergencies. They were on standby during the 2004 tsunami in Thailand, the 2015 cyclone in Vanuatu, and the search for flight MH370 that disappeared from radar in 2014. The Commander-in-Chief of this army is Dame Patsy Reddy. Interestingly, as the Governor-General, she represents not the New Zealand government but the British crown in her role. Yet, in her function, she is advised by the New Zealand Minister of Defence.
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It is still heavily overcast, but it remains dry. Descending fairly steeply along the familiar SH1, we traverse a mountainous landscape to reach Taihape in the Rangitikei Valley. They call themselves the Gumboot Capital of the World. If Ohakune has its carrot, Taihape has its rubber boot. A gigantic iron boot stands at the edge of the city.
If Ohakune has its carrot, Taihape has its rubber boot
For those who thought that rubber boots were manufactured here, they will be disappointed. The hype traces back to a popular character from the 1970s who made a splash on TV – a stereotypical New Zealand farmer, complete with a bodice and... rubber boots.
Taihape was the chosen location for that character's home base. Taihape did not miss this opportunity. They erected a giant boot on the city's edge, declared themselves Gumboot City, and started organizing an annual Gumboot Day. The highlight of this event is a gumboot throwing competition, where the objective is to throw a rubber boot as far as possible. It may not be an Olympic discipline yet, but the world record stands at 63.98 meters for men and 40.87 meters for women. Surprisingly, Ohakune hasn't thought about a carrot throwing contest yet.
Rangitikei Valley – Mangarere Bridge
Ink-black clouds seem to be awaiting us in the south, but for now, we have little trouble with them. It remains heavily overcast but generally sunny enough to enjoy spots like the view over the Rangitikei Valley with the Mangarere Bridge in the foreground.
Around eleven o'clock, it finally happens. Rain falls from the sky, but it doesn't last long. To our right, the Ohakea Air Force Base makes its appearance.
Foxton is the epicentre of Dutch presence in New Zealand
Foxton – Windmill |
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Australian magpie |
In Foxton, there is an authentic windmill that captures our attention with its rotating blades. Not unexpectedly, since Foxton is the epicentre of Dutch presence in New Zealand. They are about a hundred thousand, the Kiwis of Dutch origin. Approximately 45,000 of them still hold a Dutch passport. For comparison, the number of Belgians in New Zealand is likely only a few hundred.
The transition to other famous New Zealanders is quickly made. And there are quite a few men and women who have achieved world fame from here. Starting with Edmund Hillary, the man who, in 1953, conquered Mount Everest for the first time with Tenzing Norgay. Furthermore, Ernest Rutherford, the nuclear physicist who, in 1911, first postulated the modern atomic model – a nucleus consisting of protons around which electrons orbit. In the music world, we know Kiri Te Kanawa, the opera singer, and Neil and Tim Finn of Crowded House. Famous names from the film industry include actors Sam Neil and Russell Crowe. Jane Campion directed The Piano, and for The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit, it was Peter Jackson.
New Zealand is increasingly claiming its place in the community of nations. This year, the ultimate proof of this will be delivered – Ikea is opening its first store
It is clear that New Zealand is no longer a forgotten corner on the world map. The country is increasingly claiming its place in the community of nations. This year, the ultimate proof of this will be delivered because Ikea is opening its first store in New Zealand, specifically in Auckland.
Speaking of civilization, at Peka Peka, SH1 fans out into a flashy four-lane highway. Only about eighty kilometres now separate us from Wellington, the administrative capital of New Zealand.
In the distance, we can just discern the vague silhouette of Kāpiti Island
Progressing parallel to the coast, we continue further south. Gradually, the Tasman Sea comes into view on the right. A sombre, black-grey cloud hangs low over the turbulent sea, but rain is holding off. In the distance, we can still make out the hazy silhouette of Kāpiti Island. This is one of the conservation islands where efforts are made to preserve native species. They have successfully eradicated sheep, possums, and even rats from this large island.
Akatarawa Range, Centennial Highway, Tasman Sea
The flanks of the Akatarawa Range steeply descend towards the coast. So steep that there is barely enough space for a road. It is indeed a technical feat, the way engineers managed to construct a narrow asphalt ribbon along this rocky coastline. They completed this task in 1939, naming the stretch of over thirty kilometres the Centennial Highway. The imminent centenary of the Treaty of Waitangi was the occasion for completing this road.
Overtaking is impossible here due to a barrier between the two lanes preventing it. The thought is to avoid a potential serious traffic accident during an overtaking manoeuvre, which could block the passage on this busy thoroughfare for some time. All vehicles obediently drive in a single file.
Sometimes – roughly every 500 to 770 years – the plate shifts suddenly by four to five meters. That's what we call an earthquake
We had lost sight of it for a few days, but in Wellington, there is a joyful reunion. For here, it is omnipresent again – the geological fault line that runs from north to south across the North Island. It’s the result of the collision, deep underground, between the Pacific Plate and the Indo-Australian Plate. Subduction, the familiar story.
In Wellington, this leads to a horizontal movement of six to seven millimetres per year, geologists have calculated. And this has been happening for at least 140,000 years. But it's not always so calm. Sometimes – roughly every 500 to 770 years – the plate shifts suddenly by four to five meters. That's what we call an earthquake.
Although no historical earthquakes have been recorded in Wellington itself, it is clear that seismic activity has shaped this environment. And it will do so again in the future. This did not deter Europeans; as they began settling here from 1839, mainly due to the deep harbour. High hills surround the city and its harbour, creating a sort of caldera within which it is safe for a ship.
It is still cloudy but sunny and dry as our bus emerges from the last bend between the mountains, giving us the first glimpse of the city and its harbour.
Incessant strong westerly winds are the reason why Wellington sometimes is called Windy Welly. James Cook made good use of them when he sailed all the way around Antarctica. On the southern hemisphere, they are a regular occurrence, known to every sailor. Because there are no continents to reduce the wind's strength, except for... New Zealand, the southernmost part of the inhabited world. And they are well aware of it here. The average wind speed in Wellington is 27 km/h.
We drive through the harbour and the business district to the city centre. On the quay, we notice the MS Kaiarahi, a ferry from Interislander. This is the company with which we will sail from the North Island to the South Island the day after tomorrow.
Windy Welly, Wellington sometimes is called
Wellington
Even though it may be heavily clouded, visibility doesn't seem to suffer. So, there is every reason to quickly climb to the top of the 196 m high Mount Victoria – by bus, of course. A splendid view of the city and the harbour awaits us there.
Wellington Harbour
Immediately noticeable is how this city is wedged between the mountains. Over the past century and a half, the city has gained 155 hectares of land (383 acres) from the sea. Nature has played a significant role in this process. After the 1855 earthquake in the nearby Wairarapa, a part of the foreshore was revealed above water, increasing the liveable area.
It's already a quarter past three when we arrive at Zealandia – fifteen minutes behind schedule. However, this doesn't dampen the enthusiasm with which Roy and Don greet us. Kia ora! sounds at the front of the bus – the Māori equivalent of Greetings!
At Zealandia, we try to turn back the clock, explains staff member Roy. The intention is to create an environment as it appeared before the arrival of Homo sapiens. An environment where indigenous fauna and flora can safely thrive. In short, an environment without predators. A sturdy fence – partly above ground, partly underground – is meant to keep those naughty animals at a distance.
Zealandia is, in fact, a conservation island amidst the inhabited world. It's just a stone's throw away from the bustling city centre of Wellington. It seems like a bold venture, but in less than two hours, we will have to acknowledge that they have succeeded with flying colours.
An animated film of about five minutes outlines the backstory. How predators were introduced, partly intentionally and partly unintentionally, by Māori and Europeans. How the naive indigenous fauna became an easy target for predators and hunters. How loggers and farmers continually encroached upon the natural habitat.
The goal is to create an environment as it appeared in New Zealand before the arrival of Homo sapiens
Zealandia – Lower Karori Reservoir
This brings us to the Wellington of around 1865. The small settlement had 5,500 inhabitants when it was declared the capital of New Zealand. This was mainly due to its central location. The population increased rapidly, and the need for a reliable water supply became urgent. So, in the hills west of the city, a dam was built in 1878, creating a water reservoir. In 1908, a second reservoir was built higher up. To prevent cow dung from contaminating the drinking water, a fence was erected to keep the livestock out.
Meanwhile, it became clear that Wellington is located on a geological fault line. Worse still, both water dams were found to be built quite precisely on that fault line. And just a few kilometres upstream from the capital. That's not reassuring. The water supply had to be organized elsewhere.
In the nineties, someone came up with the brilliant idea to turn this part of the Karori Valley into an ecological island. So, it was done. In 1999, Zealandia became a reality.
Obediently, we search our pockets for rats, goats, and possums. We are relieved to find nothing. We are clean
Gradually, we are eager to explore this eco-sanctuary. Volunteer Don will be our guide. With a stern look, he instructs us to thoroughly search our pockets. Is there anything warm or hairy in there? If so, you cannot enter the park. This is a fixed ritual, a bit amusing, and yet at the same time indicative of the seriousness with which they operate here. Obediently, we search our pockets for rats, goats, and possums. We are relieved to find nothing. We are clean.
Zealandia – Enclosure |
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The first gate of the sluice swings open for us, and we are allowed to enter Zealandia. The centrepiece is the 8.6-kilometer-long fence that completely surrounds the 225-hectare domain (556 acres). It stands at a height of two meters twenty, with mesh measuring 6 mm by 50 mm. At the bottom, it extends a considerable distance underground, and at the top, there is a cap to prevent predators from climbing over.
The path leads us through a densely wooded area. This region has been free of predators for nineteen years, Don proudly states. However, last year, a weasel managed to infiltrate the domain. How he accomplished it remains unknown. Perhaps a bird of prey picked him up, and he managed to free himself above the reserve? Setting traps and regularly checking them remains important, according to Don.
Every evening at dusk, as many as 35 million of these creatures set out to damage our forests
It is mainly the common brushtail possums that cause a lot of damage. Just imagine, he sighs, every evening at dusk, as many as 35 million of these creatures set out to damage our forests. His advice is crystal clear. Every time we see fur hats or coats made from possum fur in a store, there is only one thing to do – buy them. Because the more money there is to be made from fur sales, the more inclined hunters will be to hunt possums, and the less damage the forests will suffer. It's a reasoning we can't find fault with.
Australian pied cormorants on nest
Cormorants feel right at home in the sheltered environment of the Lower Karori Reservoir. Especially the pied cormorant makes its presence known. Its blue eye rings and the yellow spot above its beak immediately catch the eye. During the day, they usually forage for fish and small shellfish in the Wellington Harbour. Towards evening, they reappear at their usual spot here. Some are drying their wings, others are sitting on their nests on the opposite side. An impressive structure it is, mainly built from branches, with a diameter of almost a meter. The male carries the branches, and the male and female together assemble the structure. The nests are used sequentially by different breeding pairs.
The most dangerous living being in New Zealand is... a tree
Australian pied cormorants
This country has no large predators or snakes; therefore, the most dangerous living being in New Zealand is... a tree. Don shows us the culprit. Literally everything about this tutu is poisonous. Berries, leaves, stems... they all contain the toxin tutin, which affects the human nervous system. Keeping a safe distance is the advice, but that's not enough. Bees are unaffected. Beekeepers must keep their bees away from tutu plants. Yet, there have been instances in the past where a jar of honey from the store landed someone in the hospital.
In 2009, there were barely 250 takahēs worldwide
The takahē was long thought to be extinct. Indeed, the North Island takahē is permanently gone, thanks to European hunters. However, a man named Geoffrey Orbell was not convinced that it was the end for this flightless bird. Stubbornly, he continued to traverse the difficult-to-access Fiordland on the South Island. Eventually, it was footprints that led him to a small population of South Island takahēs in an isolated valley on November 20, 1948. Appropriately, that valley in the Murchison Mountains was later named Takahē Valley.
Takahē
Before we know it, we find ourselves face to face with some takahēs. The pair leisurely grazes in the grass at our feet, accompanied by a chick only four months old. Yet, it's almost as large as its parents. They bear a strong resemblance to their cousins, the pūkeko, which we saw last Monday in Waimangu. However, they are considerably more robust.
Don is incredibly proud of this chick. The rediscovery of the takahē in 1948 did not mean it was saved from extinction. In 1970, it was on the brink of extinction again, thanks to some harsh winters, relentless stoats hunting them, and deer destroying their habitat. Undoubtedly, it is one of the rarest birds in the world. In 2009, there were barely 250 of them.
The path now leads us through what seems like a piece of jungle. Here we come across a kawakawa, which Don finds to be the opposite of the tutu in every way – everything about this tree is beneficial. It helps with coughs, you can make a lotion from it, brew tea, mix the leaves into a salad, and more.
A beautiful bird indeed, this native kākā, with its brown plumage and reddish chest
At a feeding trough among the trees, some kākās help themselves to the food. This native parrot is stunning with its brown feathers and reddish chest, yet it appears somewhat more primitive than the parrots we are familiar with. This is due to the fact that this species became isolated about 100 million years ago.
Twenty years ago, not a single kākā could be found here. Now they are everywhere, even in the city, says Don. Last year, as many as forty young chicks were counted. This is primarily due to the absence of predators, but also thanks to the nest boxes that have been hung up here and there.
Kākā
They don't have it easy, these ecologically naive birds. They lay their eggs in hollow trees. To incubate them, the female must stay on the nest for ninety days. With a stoat or a brushtail possum nearby, they easily become easy prey.
Kākā
Moreover, during the breeding season, honeydew is a crucial food source for the kākā. This sweet substance is produced by a scale insect that resides in the bark of southern beech trees. However, wasps are also fond of this nectar-like liquid. With their aggressiveness, they deter the birds and keep those tasty sugar bombs for themselves. Yet another consequence of colonization, as these wasps came with European fruit in the 1960s.
Kākā
And when kākās do happen to appear near humans, they are often fed inappropriate food like nuts, grains, and cheese. This leads to bone diseases in the chicks because the mineral composition of their bones changes, very often with fatal consequences.
Tuataras are, of course, cannot be absent here. However, these reptiles have long been exterminated on the main islands. So, they had to come from elsewhere, like Takapourewa, where an estimated fifty thousand of them reside. So taking away about two hundred was no problem.
And they are doing well here, just look, says Don. We look, but we see nothing. At least, not initially. The creature is perfectly camouflaged, motionless among the dry leaves. For a moment, we even doubt – did Don perhaps place a plastic model here to trick us? But then, there is finally a glimpse of movement that convinces us otherwise.
Tuatara
Despite its name, it is not a lizard but forms a separate order within reptiles. Fossil remains indicate that you could already find tuataras crawling – or sitting still – around here two hundred million years ago. Hats off to these creatures that have even outlasted the dinosaurs.
They are living fossils because over all that time, they have hardly changed. Their skeleton resembles that of birds, their body structure is like that of iguanas, their belly ribs are similar to those of fish, their tail is like that of crocodiles, and their brains resemble those of amphibians. Odd fellows, these tuataras.
Tuataras are living fossils because over two hundred million years they have hardly changed
Tuatara
From head to tail, a tuatara can grow up to 80 cm long. We especially notice the spiky crest that runs along its back. We can't discern any trace of the famous third eye on top of its head. Perhaps this is because, in older individuals, the transparent scale covering that eye becomes thicker and less transparent. Tuataras can live up to a hundred years, especially in a protected environment like this.
The purpose of the third eye is not well understood. It may help the tuatara recognize the vague shape of an approaching predator, or perhaps it is used to determine the rhythm of day and night.
What's also noteworthy about tuataras is what they lack. Almost all male reptiles have a penis, but the male tuatara does not. For reproduction, he must bring his cloaca into direct contact with that of the female. Some birds also engage in such behaviour. Add to that the fact that it takes ten to twenty years for tuataras to reach sexual maturity, that it takes one to three years for the young to hatch, and that the parents, once the eggs are laid, no longer pay any attention to them, and you can't help but wonder how this species managed to survive for so long.
Tuatara |
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Tree wētā |
Coincidentally, a tree wētā has landed on a grate. You wouldn't guess it from the slow-moving tuataras, but these large crickets are their favourite treat. Like tuataras, wētās are endemic to New Zealand. They are creepy creatures with their long bodies and spiky hind legs. Normally, tree wētās only come out of their burrows at night to feed on plants and small insects. Such burrows are usually found in a tree, where an adult male establishes himself with his harem of five to ten adult females.
When this reserve was established, you could find exactly six tūīs here. Now, they are everywhere, just like the kākās. Just recently, about a thousand birds were banded, Don proudly declares, while we stand gazing upward. Somewhere among the branches, there is an indigenous tūī.
A feast for the eyes it is, this tūī, with its blue-black plumage and especially those curled white feathers around its neck
A feast for the eyes it is – after all those strange creatures – with its blue-black plumage and especially those curled white feathers around its neck. The tūī is sometimes called the New Zealand nightingale due to its excellent singing abilities. It can even whistle two songs simultaneously. The early settlers thought they were dealing with a mockingbird because of its impressive ability to mimic sounds.
Tūī
A true honeyeater it is. Even more than the kākā, the tūī has to endure the challenge of wasps stealing honeydew from it. It prefers to indulge in the nectar of the flax plant. If it consumes too much of it, it might appear intoxicated because the nectar has fermenting properties. However, it also enjoys fruits and insects.
From a branch, a tīeke, a South Island saddleback, observes our group. The chestnut-brown patch on his back and the fleshy, orange-red wattles on his beak make him easily recognizable. Otherwise, he is entirely dressed in black.
The chestnut-brown patch on his back and the fleshy, orange-red wattles on his beak make him easily recognizable
South Island saddleback
The South Island saddleback also faces challenges. It prefers to build its nest in tree hollows and rock crevices, where rats and stoats can easily catch it. The only way to save this endemic songbird was to reintroduce it to smaller islands.
Seemingly fearless, a stout bird on a bench tries to grab our attention. This is a classic distraction manoeuvre by a male, as in the low grass beside the path, a timid female with her two chicks waits motionless for the events to unfold. As long as they focus on me, they leave my little family in the grass alone, the male California quail seems to think.
As long as they focus on me, they leave my little family in the grass alone, the male California quail seems to think
California quail (m)
California quail (f)
The mere fact of employing such a strategy indicates that we are dealing with non-native birds here. Apparently, they are aware of the potential danger and know how to handle it – unlike ecologically naive native species.
Since these California quails were introduced to New Zealand in 1862, they have managed to thrive here. Despite being exotic, they are not considered invasive as they do not harm the ecosystem, although the term they do no harm should not be taken literally, as they are insect-eaters in their early years.
The male, in particular, is impressive. With its robust appearance and blue-green plumage that transitions into a pattern of white and golden scales at the bottom, it resembles a distinguished gentleman. However, it's the distinctive crest on its head that cannot be ignored. It curls slightly forward like a black plume, as if a few hairs were tied together in a bundle.
More than 15 minutes after closing time, we leave Zealandia behind – overtime for Roy and Don, but these enthusiasts seem unfazed.
In the heart of Wellington, we briefly stop at the parliament building.
Wellington – Beehive
But it's the famous Beehive that captures all the attention. Its shape resembles a woven beehive, hence the nickname of the building. Although the name seems equally fitting for the activity that takes place inside, as it houses the offices of the Prime Minister and several members of her cabinet.
New Zealand can be described as a constitutional monarchy with a parliamentary system. Queen Elizabeth II of Britain is the head of state. Given the considerable distance – something we experienced first hand – she does not personally fulfil her constitutional and ceremonial duties but entrusts them to her representative, namely the Governor-General.
So, it's Patsy Reddy, the Governor-General, who appoints ministers and judges in New Zealand, convenes and dissolves the parliament, and in whose hands the Prime Minister takes the oath, all on the advice of the democratically elected government.
New Zealand doesn't have a formal constitution. Instead, it has a set of laws and other texts, including the Treaty of Waitangi, that together form an unwritten constitution. Moreover, New Zealand only has one chamber of representatives, elected every three years. You can vote from the age of eighteen.
Next Friday, the first Global strike for future will take place. Students worldwide will come out to the streets to express their dissatisfaction with the ineffective climate policies of their governments. For the first time, this protest is also happening in Australia and New Zealand – more than two months after the initial protests in Brussels.
Kiwi's find it strange that students would skip school to protest. Some students are invited to explain their action in the studios of 1News. But their protest this Friday will be completely overshadowed by another news event, something no one could have predicted.
Thursday, March 14 | Wellington
A peaceful awakening it is, with a stay in Wellington for the day. Firstly, we have set our sights on the Cable Car, the cable train that will take us to the 127 m high Kelburn. The view over Wellington and its Harbour will be excellent. From there, we will walk down to the city, through the botanical garden with its unique collection of native and exotic plants.
Nowadays, the quay has shifted 250 m to the east. That's how much land the Kiwis have won from the bay in the past century
The street where the train departs is called Lambton Quay. Its name reveals it right away – formerly, this was not a street but a quay. Nowadays, that quay has shifted 250 m to the east. That's how much land the Kiwis have won from the bay in the past century – thanks to that earthquake in Wairarapa.
It's a fairly busy street, in the heart of the business district. We can hardly imagine that, before 1855, the water on our right used to splash against the quay, and during rough seas, it might have flowed into the shops on the left.
But that's not our main concern. The endless queue on the sidewalk soon grabs our attention. Forty-five minutes of waiting, as it turns out. A bit too much for our liking.
Plan B takes us to the waterfront of Lambton Harbour, twenty meters lower – which says something about the natural forces that wreaked havoc here in 1855. There we come across the stately facades of Bond Store. However monumental this building may seem, it was nothing more than a warehouse when it was built in 1892. But it was the hub of port activity, as all goods in transit ended up here.
Until the 1960s, when containers and roll-on-roll-off ships entered the scene. They didn't need the entrepôt anymore, and Bond Store had to close its books.
Soon it turned out to be an ideal place for a museum dedicated to the history of City & Sea, as they call it here – a combination of a maritime and an urban museum. An impressive renovation was initiated, including ultra-modern stabilizers. These protect the four-thousand-ton building from earthquakes. Nevertheless, the entrance remains free, as in all New Zealand museums, despite the expensive renovation.
The maritime part examines the ins and outs of shipping, especially in the formidable Cook Strait between the North Island and the South Island. The first crossing of Cook Strait by plane is reported with due pride. And the first submarine electricity cable between the two islands. At that time – in 1965 – it was the longest in the world, with an unprecedented capacity of 600 MW.
Frequently, the image emerges of an isolated community with quirky traits. Or, as the museum describes it – weird, worrisome, and wonderful
But it's the social part that sometimes makes us raise our eyebrows. Frequently, the image emerges of an isolated community with quirky traits. Or, as the museum describes it – weird, worrisome, and wonderful.
Especially public morals were a constant concern. Films like The Wild One with Marlon Brando were not allowed to be shown. It was legally forbidden for farmers until the 1950s to allow livestock to mate in pastures along the public road.
But that didn't stop the New Zealand youth from staying on the right path. At least not according to the government. A special committee would put an end to what they called moral delinquency among the youth in 1954. Naturally, a blood-serious report emerged from that, the famous Mazengarb report. Comic books, trashy novels, and suggestive songs were identified as sources of corruption. All families with children received a copy of the report in the mail. And the parliament banned the sale of contraceptives to adolescents.
New Zealand almost voted for complete prohibition just after World War I. Only after counting the votes of the soldiers overseas did the supporters of total alcohol prohibition get stuck at 49.7 %. But the ban on keeping a bar open after six in the evening was not to be touched. This measure had been introduced during the war to limit alcohol abuse. With the perverse consequence that men would rush to get drunk after work – from five to six. This was called the six o'clock swill, the rinse of drunken men drifting through the streets every evening from six onwards. It wasn't lifted until 1967.
Chinese were disposable citizens in New Zealand at that time
Also, the fate of Kim Lee in 1903 was symptomatic. Swollen glands and a rash were enough to arrest the shopkeeper for leprosy and dump him on a rocky point a few hectares in size in Wellington Harbour. He died in his cave. Chinese were disposable citizens in New Zealand at that time.
Outside, it's still windy and cloudy, but warm and dry. On the outdoor terrace of Mac’s Brewbar on Taranaki Street Wharf, we sip a beer. That's allowed because they have a license. Fetching a beer yourself and drinking it on the terrace is also allowed. But then you have to cross the public domain. And that's not allowed. At least not with that beer in hand. You have to call a waiter who will carry that beer across the pedestrian street for you.
The traditional Western figures on the pedestrian traffic lights have been replaced indefinitely by Māori figures
Warrior performing a haka – Red light |
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Wāhine or dancing Māori woman – Green light |
Nice, on the other hand, are the pedestrian traffic lights at a crossroads on the south corner of Waitangi Park. The traditional Western figures have been replaced there indefinitely by Māori figures. This happened following a recent Māori festival in the park. You are allowed to cross when a green wāhine – a dancing Māori woman – appears. However, if a red warrior performing a haka appears, you must wait. Out of sheer fear, we comply, as one does not joke with a haka, we now know.
It's half past two now, and our visit to one of Wellington's biggest attractions can begin – Te Papa Tongarewa, the place that houses Mother Earth's precious treasures. In 1865, there was already a modest colonial museum here. In 1930, they moved the contents to a new and larger museum elsewhere in the city. Barely half a century later, that too was packed. A definitive solution was needed, preferably a new, even larger museum right here on the waterfront.
The building with four floors weighing three thousand tons was simply placed on rails and moved to the other side of the street
Perhaps someone at that time cautiously suggested that there was actually a hotel standing on this exact spot. No worries, such a little hiccup didn't deter the ambitious builders. The building, weighing three thousand tons with four floors, was simply placed on rails and moved across the street, 120 m further. There, it still flourishes as a four-star hotel under the fitting name Museum Art Hotel.
In 1998, the new Te Papa could open its doors. Nowadays, it greets one and a half million visitors per year. You can't call this museum large; gigantic is a better description. Spread over six floors, the public space covers a whopping 3.6 hectares (8.9 acres).
To dampen the effect of earthquakes, the building rests on 152 shock absorbers. These are rubber blocks laminated with steel, containing columns of pure lead – an invention the New Zealanders take pride in. Essentially, these shock absorbers decouple the building from its foundation. In any case, it makes Te Papa the safest place in Wellington and a refuge in case of earthquakes.
The majority of the exhibition is dedicated to the Māori. Therefore, it's good to know a bit about their culture, primarily their creation story. In the beginning, there was Nothing, according to this myth – something it shares with the book of Genesis. Then came the Night. Many Nights followed until the Night joined the Space. This gave rise to two thoughts, Rangi-nui and Papa-tu-a-nuku, the Sky Father and the Earth Mother.
The Sky Father and the Earth Mother loved each other so much that they embraced each other deeply and didn't want to let go
Rangi and Papa loved each other dearly. So much so that they embraced each other deeply and didn't want to let go. Heaven and earth were tightly pressed against each other. Neither light nor time could squeeze in between them.
From the deep love of Rangi and Papa, more than a hundred children were born, including the god of the sea, the god of the forests, the god of war, the god of darkness, the god of the winds, and so on.
These gods, trapped in eternal darkness between their parents, became frustrated with their situation. They began making plans to separate their parents, leading to conflicts. The god of darkness found the current situation amusing, while the god of the winds wanted his parents to be left alone.
However, the other gods stood firm, and it was ultimately the god of the forests who accomplished the task. Slowly but steadily, with the help of some wooden posts, he pushed his parents apart. It took many, many years, but eventually, the separation was achieved. This is how the heavens and the earth as we know them were created. Rangi's blood became the red of the sunset, and Papa's blood became the red clay on earth.
The god of the winds, however, did not accept defeat. He plucked out his eyes and threw them into the sky, creating the first two stars. Then, in his blind rage against his brothers, he unleashed whirlwinds, storms, hurricanes, and tsunamis.
All of this saddened Rangi and Papa deeply. They missed each other and began to weep intensely. From Rangi's tears came the oceans and rivers, and the morning dew on the grass. While the mists rising from the ground remind us of Papa's sorrow, stifled by loneliness.
From this poetic creation myth to the legal jargon of the Treaty of Waitangi, you only need to take a few steps in this museum. The transition, however, could hardly be more abrupt. The complete text – three articles plus a preamble – hangs meters high on the wall.
Article the second, which regulates the cession of land, intrigues us the most: Her Majesty the Queen of England confirms and guarantees to the Chiefs and Tribes of New Zealand and to the respective families and individuals thereof the full exclusive and undisturbed possession of their Lands and Estates Forests Fisheries and other properties which they may collectively or individually possess so long as it is their wish and desire to retain the same in their possession; but the Chiefs of the United Tribes and the individual Chiefs yield to Her Majesty the exclusive right of Pre-emption over such lands as the proprietors thereof may be disposed to alienate at such prices as may be agreed upon between the respective Proprietors and persons appointed by Her Majesty to treat with them in that behalf.
In the face of the guns of the British, the Māori were powerless
It seems unlikely that illiterate Māori chiefs understood much of this diarrhoea of words, even after translation into Māori. But they had no choice, as they were powerless against the guns of the British. Barely a quarter of a century later, the British began confiscating Māoriland massively.
An exquisite piece is the imposing waka, more than sixteen meters long, displayed on the fourth floor. Māori used such river canoes for fishing, transporting goods over rivers, and even for warfare. This is evident, among other things, from the warlike figure at the front of the bow with mother-of-pearl eyes. Carvings and albatross feathers adorn the sides.
As always, the hull is carved from the wood of a single tree, in this case, a tōtara. These are straight trees that easily reach heights of 20 to 25 meters. Tōtara wood is hard enough for a boat but easy to work with and not heavy at all – a quarter lighter than kauri wood. Moreover, it is impregnated with natural oil, protecting it from rot. That's all you need if you want to build a canoe.
Despite its beauty, this waka was primarily used as a waka taua in the past. Which means to go to war. Around thirty warriors could board, but there are waka taua known to carry a hundred warriors.
Tactically, the goal was often to ram the enemy waka amidships and sink it. This is precisely what happened when Abel Tasman launched a sloop during his first encounter with Māori. As soon as the Māori spotted that rowboat, they launched an attack and rammed it with their waka.
Our eyes wander over a scale model of a waka hourua, built at one-third of the actual size. Despite its small size, approximately six meters long, this vessel is seaworthy. This was proven in 1998 when it participated in the museum's opening ceremony.
It was with boats of this type that the Māori succeeded in migrating over open seas, sometimes covering thousands of kilometres
It was with boats of this type that the Māori succeeded in migrating over open seas, sometimes covering thousands of kilometres. Over two parallel canoes, a wooden deck has been mounted, providing the vessel with more stability on rough seas – a distant precursor of the catamaran. Two triangular sails made of New Zealand flax flutter from the masts. A wooden railing surrounds the platform, certainly not a luxury on the open sea.
For this model, Te Aurere served as a reference. It is a contemporary waka hourua, built using traditional methods. In 1992, it sailed to Rarotonga in the Cook Islands, a journey of almost three thousand kilometres. Modern navigation equipment was deliberately omitted, relying on stars, moon, sun, wind, wave patterns, and bird flight for orientation. With favourable winds, Te Aurere reached a speed of twelve knots – 22 km/h. The journey lasted twenty-four days. It's staggering to realize that the eleven crew members spent all that time in the open air on a platform measuring no more than fifteen meters by five.
And we forgot almost – the Polynesians are the inventors of the outrigger canoe, as the waka ama for coastal waters reminds us. A float on the port side provides the necessary stability for such canoes.
At the heart of the exhibition, we find a magnificent reconstruction of a marae, the central meeting place found in every Māori settlement. Even the pātaka, the food storage of the marae, displays beautiful examples of woodcarving. The building stands about two meters high on stilts, not only to keep food out of reach of rodents but also to prevent their food from being prematurely steamed by geothermal activity.
The wharenui still forms the centre of Māori cultural experience.
The wharenui, the communal house, steals the show. Such community houses still form the centre of Māori cultural experience. A jewel of wood carving, even just from the outside, where, with a bit of imagination, you can easily recognize a warrior in the haka posture in the front facade – a warlike mask at the top of the ridge, sloping roof edges, and wooden pillars on the left and right – head, upper arms, lower arms. Add to that the ridge and rafters representing the spine and ribs of that body, and you realize that by entering this building, you are also entering the heart of that body.
Our shoes come off for a moment as we want to experience this wharenui from the inside as well. It's a feast for the eyes, this interior. Two wooden pillars support the ridge, and, like the rafters and wall panels, they are intricately carved from top to bottom into figures representing gods. In between, a weave of New Zealand flax is applied with a geometric pattern in the three traditional colours – black, red, and white.
Te Papa Tongarewa – Wooden wall of a wharenui (inside)
Kanaka is eager to explain to us about this taonga, this precious treasure of his tribe. As a Māori, he was born and raised in the Gisborne area on the east coast of the North Island, the place from where this meeting house comes. You can rightfully call this one of the oldest buildings in New Zealand, he says not without pride, as this wharenui dates back to 1842.
In the architecture of a wharenui, you can easily recognize a warrior in the posture of the haka with a bit of imagination
In the wooden panels at the front, some haka patterns are carved. Kanaka draws our attention to them. The Māori did not have a written language. So, for them, there was no other option than to pass on customs and traditions from generation to generation through stories, songs, and dances. But also through various forms of art, especially weaving, painting, and wood carving, as you can see on these panels.
More than just a meeting space for the community, a wharenui is also the ideal place for important ceremonies. The welcoming of guests, for example, a birth, a wedding, or a funeral.
When asked which of these ceremonies is the most important, the answer comes without hesitation. That is the tangihanga, says Kanaka, the funeral ritual. For three days, the body of the deceased is laid in this space. All that time, there are relatives nearby because you rarely, if ever, leave the soul of the deceased alone. Visitors come from far and wide to pay their respects. They talk to the deceased about the good and bad moments they had in their lives. Laughing and singing is allowed, crying too. Eventually, the coffin is closed, and they prepare for a funeral service, usually of Christian origin – the missionaries probably have something to do with that. A traditional feast – the equivalent of our funeral luncheon – should not be missing.
Visitors talk to the deceased about the good and bad moments they had in their lives. Laughing and singing is allowed, crying too
A tangihanga involves the entire community, whereas a birth certainly does not. Men have no business being there, Kanaka soberly states. It is the mother or aunt of the pregnant woman who supports her.
While a wharenui was originally always associated with a community within a particular tribe, nowadays, that is not necessarily the case. Sometimes a wharenui is established for a specific group, independent of any tribal connection. Schools are a typical example of this.
The Te Papa Museum also houses a living wharenui within its walls. It is available to the urban community of Wellington. This contemporary reinterpretation of the classic concept is a colourful affair and surprisingly different. Traditional building materials have been replaced by MDF, and colours not known to the Māori have been used for the finishing. Such bold interventions within a historical context are always good for a bit of controversy.
However, the Māori no longer have the land to themselves; on the contrary. This evolution is highlighted in the Passports section. Here, we are confronted with the stories of European and other migrants who have settled in New Zealand over the past two hundred years. We are introduced to a world of suitcases and passports, the tiny cabins on the middle deck of a sea ship, and the diversity in culture and lifestyle of the newcomers.
Seventeen thousand Kiwis participated in the military campaign in Gallipoli, 2,779 lost their lives
A turning point in New Zealand's history was the military campaign in Turkish Gallipoli. It lasted for eight months, with seventeen thousand Kiwis participating, and 2,779 losing their lives. That's one in six. Te Papa dedicates an extensive exhibition to this.
The Allies' objective was to conquer the Dardanelles. If the British and the French could control this narrow strait, they could supply their ally Russia through the Black Sea. Additionally, it would deal a heavy blow to Turkey, the German ally. Bulgaria would think twice before joining the Central Powers. If possible, the Allies planned to advance and capture the Turkish capital, Constantinople – present-day Istanbul.
However, things turned out differently. We are immersed in the daily lives of eight Kiwi soldiers. Through their own experiences, they shed light on the horrors of the battle. We encounter hunger and thirst, summer heat and winter cold, exhaustion, suffering, and death. There were also communication issues, a lack of secrecy, a massive landing on the wrong beach and even a British general who had to gain knowledge of the terrain through tourist brochures.
Ultimately, the campaign was a complete failure. Only one success could be claimed – the humiliating yet thoroughly prepared and silently executed retreat, with no casualties.
Considerable effort has been made to evoke these events. Life-sized soldiers, enlarged to two and a half times normal size, depict dramatic scenes in 3D. However, the geopolitical blunders that caused so much suffering and death are treated somewhat leniently.
The unsuitability of the mountainous terrain for a landing, the decisive advantage the defenders had with the ridges – the Allies should have known that beforehand. Even if they established a foothold, the Turks could easily have blocked their passage on the narrow isthmus. The painful realization is that a strong Turkish force was simply waiting for the Allies because their plans had leaked.
A strong Turkish force was simply waiting for the Allies because their plans had leaked
One of the Turkish commanders, Mustafa Kemal, laid the foundation for his popularity in Gallipoli. Eight years later, he would reshape his country under the name Atatürk. On the other hand, Winston Churchill, the British First Lord of the Admiralty, was dismissed by his Prime Minister.
These events not only marked a turning point in New Zealand but also in Australia. The day of the landing of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) – April 26, 1916 – is celebrated every year as ANZAC Day. Dawn services are held at the time of the landing.
For us, tomorrow's agenda includes the crossing from the North Island to the South Island, or to put it bluntly – from the island of fire to the island of ice. Volcanoes and crater lakes will give way to glaciers and kettle lakes.
Jaak Palmans
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No more honeydew to feast on
