Ambassadors of the White Continent

Antarctica | Anno 2018

 

Tuesday 30 January | Deception Island – Livingstone Island

Wednesday 31 January | Drake Passage

Thursday 1 February | Beagle Channel – Ushuaia

 

 

Tuesday 30 January | Deception Island – Livingstone Island

Deception Island – as the name suggests – is not what it seems. You think you're looking at an island, but in fact, it's a caldera filled with seawater. So, it's a ring-shaped crater lake, right in the middle of the sea, with a diameter of a whopping nine kilometres.

Deception Island – as the name suggests – is not what it seems

Deception Island – Neptune’s Bellows

That must have been quite an explosion back then, Aaron, our German geologist, told us. Like all the South Shetland Islands, Deception Island is of volcanic origin. But when this volcano erupted about ten thousand years ago, around 32 cubic kilometres of pyroclastic material were catapulted into the air. Enough to fill a colossal cube with sides of more than three kilometres.

As is the case with exploding volcanoes, the disappearance of all that magma created a huge cavity underground. The central part of the volcano collapsed. Fortunately, nature made a mistake. The ring is not completely closed after all. In the southeast, there is an opening of about 230 meters through which seawater flowed in. Nowadays, the crater lake is 190 meters deep.

 

Deception Island – Volcanic wall of the caldera

But there's more to it. Because Deception Island is still active. When eruptions occur in such calderas afterward, they invariably happen on the edge of the caldera, because that's where the vertical fault lines are. Two such secondary craters are Whalers Bay and Telefon Bay, both on the crater wall. In 1967, they erupted completely unexpectedly. Fortunately, everyone was able to get away in time.

Since its discovery in 1820, Deception Island has become a popular stopping point, initially for whalers, later for cruise ships. Because as long as the volcano remains calm, you're relatively safe inside. The crater lake was named Port Foster. A whale processing factory was even built, called Whalers Bay. The remains of it have been recognized as a historical monument.

 

Neptune's Bellows owes its name to the strong wind that is its trademark

Neptune's Bellows is the name of the gorge that will grant us access to the crater lake. It owes its name to the strong wind that is its trademark. But there's still a catch – actually, a rock under the water. Because right in the middle of the passage, hidden only 2.5 meters below the water surface, lies the venomous Ravn Rock waiting for careless sailors.

A visit to Deception Island is therefore not entirely without danger. This was demonstrated, among others, by the Southern Hunter, a British whaler, in 1956. And more recently, the Nordkapp of the Norwegian Hurtigruten, which ran aground here in 2007. The 280 passengers emerged unscathed, but they had to cancel their cruise.

So, for Captain Oleg and his crew, it's more important than usual to be cautious. The passage is scheduled for quarter past seven in the morning. Of course, nobody wants to miss that. So, Bettina wakes us up an hour earlier than usual. With a hearty breakfast consumed, we take our positions at the bow well before seven. On the bridge, it's all hands on deck.

 

So, for Captain Oleg and his crew, it's more important than usual to be cautious

Neptune's Bellows lives up to its name. A strong wind sweeps over the ship, almost blowing us off our feet. Waves crash high against the bow, even on deck four everyone on the forecastle gets wet. It's overcast, but dry and clear. Occasionally, the sun even breaks through the clouds.

 

A blackened lava tube lies exposed on the outside of the caldera

Deception Island – Volcanic wall of the caldera

Slowly, the wall of the caldera slides past as we enter the crater lake. The sharp, jagged shapes and the many colours of these relatively young walls are striking – from ochre yellow to reddish-brown. Rain, wind, and water have hardly affected them over the years. A blackened lava tube lies exposed on the outside. Here and there, spots of white snow or green moss adorn the volcanic rock.

 

Deception Island – Volcanic wall of the caldera

It only takes a few minutes before we have safely passed through the passage. Then, the caldera opens up in all its vastness. We are now surrounded on all sides by the dark crater wall. It rises three to five hundred meters above us. Usually, the peaks are covered with snow, and on the slopes, the layers of snow follow the striped pattern of the erosion channels.

As long as the volcano remains calm, you are relatively safe inside

Deception Island – Port Foster with M/V Ortelius

Deception Island – Port Foster

To the right, Whalers Bay emerges. In 1912, the Norwegians built the whale processing factory Ny Sandjeford there. It was about time. Because aboard factory ships, they were unable to boil down the bones of a whale – despite being good for more than half of the whale oil. The carcasses were simply left here on the beach. Eventually, there were over three thousand stinking carcasses lying around.

Cleaning up that waste became Ny Sandjeford's first task. During the 1912-1913 season alone, five thousand whales were processed here. Many tens of thousands would follow. However, due to the steady growth and improvement of factory ships, Ny Sandjeford had to succumb to the new technology in 1931.

That a sheltered harbour in a unique, strategic location was regularly the subject of a tug-of-war between interested powers is easily guessed. Especially Argentina and the United Kingdom were not inactive. The animosity between the two dates back long before the Falklands War in 1982.

During the 1912-1913 season alone, five thousand whales were processed here

In 1942, the Argentines claimed the caldera as Argentine territory. As in Port Lockroy, they left a copper cylinder in Whalers Bay containing the documents that substantiated their claims. In January 1943, the British picked up the cylinder and had it returned to the rightful owner via their ambassador in Buenos Aires. In March 1943, the Argentines were back, removing the British emblems and painting the Argentine flag on the buildings. In February 1944, the British then made it their permanent Base B. In short, scenes such as the ones you regularly see on the playground of any elementary school.

Today, those disputes seem to be a thing of the past. Now it's mainly tourists who visit Port Foster. On the crater lake, among others, the M/V Ortelius of Oceanwide Expeditions has preceded us.

Captain Oleg, on the other hand, is heading straight for our destination, Telefon Bay, all the way across the lake. Around quarter past eight, it is reported that the landing will be possible. Don't forget to apply sunscreen, Bettina wisely adds, because you burn much faster here due to the thinner ozone layer. Quickly, we put our sunglasses in our pockets, and off we go.

 

Stancomb Cove

Half an hour later, we glide over the choppy water with the zodiacs. It's still cloudy, but occasionally, the sunrays manage to break through the dense cloud cover. It's a bit difficult to land in the shallow coastal waters of Stancomb Cove.

 

Climbing Telefon Ridge

We now have a hike of about two kilometres ahead of us over Telefon Ridge, the caldera that formed around one of the secondary craters in 1967. Expedition leader Jonathan leads the way. He deliberately chooses the steepest sections at the beginning to shake things up a bit. For those who can't keep up, he advises them to take a walk on the beach below instead. It seems he's not keen on encountering quitters along the way.

 

Telefon Ridge

We ascend quite steeply along the mountain ridge. Volcanic ash crackles under our boots. Small rocks are scattered across the barren, brown slopes. Nothing grows here, no irregularity disrupts the natural geometry of the scree that’s only subject to gravity.

 

Deception Island – Telefon Bay

As we gradually approach the highest point, 265 meters above Port Foster, the wind rapidly increases in strength. It's crucial to be careful not to be blown off the narrow mountain ridge. But the view is unparalleled. It feels as if the unique caldera is lying at our feet. Although, across from us, Mount Pond with its 540 meters is significantly higher than where we are standing now. Sometimes the sun breaks through the clouds. Then, the Sea Spirit for a short moment appears to float on a rippling mirror of mercury.

 

Descent from Telefon Ridge

For a short moment the Sea Spirit appears to float on a rippling mirror of mercury

The rest of the hike is a breeze. It turns out to be a prolonged descent over the ring crater to Stancomb Cove, while we constantly have to resist the temptation to focus more on the marvellous scenery than on the narrow path.

 

Telefon Ridge, Port Foster

Descent to Stancomb Cove

A few dozen kelp gulls are hanging out in the shallow water along the shore. Strands of orange and red kelp lie ready to be consumed on the beach. However, there is no direct correlation. Kelp is not the favourite food of kelp gulls. After all, they are omnivores. They prefer to find their food in kelp forests, where life abounds. That's where their name comes from.

 

Kelp gull with chick		Kelp gull
Bickering kelp gull chicks		Kelp gulls don't like kelp

Four men are needed to pry the zodiac off the beach in the shallow water. Then it's straight through the caldera to the Sea Spirit, against the wind. The instruction sounds familiar to us by now – everyone should sit closer to the outboard motor so that the bow of the zodiac tilts slightly upward and can tackle the waves more smoothly. The rubber boat skims over the choppy water, with the wind driving spray into the boat like a stroboscopic shower. It doesn't bother us; we're waterproof from head to toe. But our sunglasses we won’t need, that’s clear by now. And we better hang our stuff to dry in the cabin.

 

Telefon Bay

In 1923, the seawater in Port Foster reportedly reached boiling point. Literally

In 1923, the seawater in Port Foster reportedly reached boiling point. Literally. Ships saw the paint on their hulls come off due to the heat. Such conditions have not been observed for almost a century – except for a minor episode in the 1991-1992 season. However, the water in the caldera is still slightly warmer than elsewhere. That's why you won't find large animals there.

For the planned Polar Plunge, the water temperature is ideal. But a wind speed of 41 knots, equivalent to 76 km/h, has been measured. The sea current is accordingly strong. Captain Oleg and expedition leader Jonathan consider it too risky to dive into the polar water in such conditions.

So, we leave Deception Island behind us. Around quarter past twelve, we sail through Neptune's Bellows again. Interest in this event has dwindled to zero – everyone is in the restaurant.

In open sea, the swell immediately increases. The scopolamine patch can be placed behind the ear again, even though it will still be until tonight before we embark on the journey to Ushuaia through the dreaded Drake Passage.

We have one more landing ahead of us, the tenth if we don't count the overnight stay on land. What we don't yet know is that our last landing will be our most beautiful.

What we don't yet know is that our last landing will be our most beautiful

Livingstone Island – Disembarkation at Hannah Point

It doesn't take long before the Sea Spirit drops anchor off Livingston Island. With an area of ​​almost 800 km², this is one of the largest of the South Shetland Islands.

On Christmas Day 1820, the Hannah, a British seal hunter from Liverpool, foundered here. Since then, the promontory where it happened is called Hannah Point. As the crow flies, we are barely 35 km from Half Moon Island, the place where it all began for us six days ago.

Gradually, a paradise for animal lovers unfolds

Hannan Point – Chinstrap penguins colony

The sea is calm, with dense cloud cover, but it remains dry. At a quarter to three, we go ashore. Finding a spot to land proves to be no problem. But once on the beach, it's bustling with activity. Hundreds of chirping penguins populate the not-so-fragrant rocks. They are chinstrap penguins, it's been a while since we've seen them in action.

 

Chinstrap penguins with chicks

Nature photographer John leads the way. It's not easy for him to chart a course over the rocks where we don't disturb the penguins. As we climb above the rocks, it becomes clear that this chinstrap penguins colony is nothing more than a modest harbinger of what awaits us.

 

Brown skua makes penguins nervous

Gradually, a paradise for animal lovers unfolds. Thousands, if not tens of thousands, of chinstrap penguins have claimed the crescent-shaped Liverpool Beach. As far as the eye can see, it's teeming with black-and-white bodies. They make an indescribable noise. And a lot of stench.

 

Southern giant petrel on nest

Southern giant petrel

Southern giant petrel

But the penguins don't have the realm all to themselves. Southern giant petrels have built their nests on top of the ridge. Confidently, they survey the surroundings. Safely on the nest, the chicks sit, still adorned with a white plumage for now. From our frog's-eye view, we see their unsuspecting heads curiously poking above the rocks. Their immature beaks, with the salt tube, look pale and fragile.

Snowy sheathbills wander among the penguins. They may look innocent, but they're not. Wherever they appear, they are chased away by the penguins with wide-open beaks and loud squawks.

Even faeces are on the menu for the sheathbills. Sometimes, they go as far as calmly lurking behind a young penguin chick – just waiting

Snowy sheathbill

Snowy sheathbills are omnivorous, ornithologist Ab explains. Pure opportunists, actually, who eat just about anything. It's no surprise that penguins are wary of such a scoundrel nearby. Snowy sheathbills have no qualms about stealing krill and fish from penguins, or even their eggs and fluffy chicks. They even find faeces appetizing. Sometimes, they go as far as calmly lurking behind a young penguin chick – just waiting. Because a warm meal still takes precedence, Ab grins.

Worldwide, the number of snowy sheathbill pairs is estimated at ten thousand. That's not much. They overwinter in Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego, and the Falkland Islands. They cover a distance of 800 km, over the sea no less – not bad for a bird that looks very much like a chicken. But they remain opportunists. Because Ab sometimes sees them hitching a free ride on the ship.

There are no insects for pollination in Antarctica. Yet the Antarctic hair grass thrives here

Gentoo penguin, Antarctic hair grass

Small patches of grass seem to thrive quite well on the slope. That's Antarctic hair grass, a tough, flowering grass species. But there are no insects for pollination in Antarctica, Ab adds. So, for the plant, there's no choice but to propagate via vegetative reproduction. In this form of asexual reproduction, the grass stems touch the ground, take root, and thus form roots for a new plant.

 

Gentoo penguin returns from foraging

Gentoo penguin with chick on a pebble nest

Only one percent of Antarctica is suitable for such plant growth. You won't find them anywhere else but on the South Shetland Islands and the northern part of the Antarctic Peninsula. Yet, on the peninsula, Antarctic hair grass is advancing – thanks to global warming.

 

Chicks on the nest

Even though they're structures made of loose stones, gentoo penguins know how to make beautiful nests. Some chicks are moulting. They're almost ready for the winter season. But with their mix of down and fledgling feathers, they won't be winning any beauty contests.

With their mix of down and fledgling feathers, they won't be winning any beauty contests

Moulting gentoo penquin

Squawking gentoo penguin

Gentoo penquin and chinstrap penguin walking side by side

For over sixty million years, penguins have roamed this planet, John tells us. That's just after the extinction of most dinosaurs. And he should know, because in 2017, a fossil of a penguin from his homeland of New Zealand was estimated to be 55 to 65 million years old. It turned out to be a giant penguin, 1.65 meters tall and weighing 100 kilograms – much larger and heavier than the contemporary emperor penguin. The extinct penguin was named kumimanu, which in the language of the Maori means monster bird.

 

Liverpool Beach – Penguin colony, elephant seals

Then, amidst the penguin colony, we notice an amorphous, brownish-yellow mass. The gentoo penguins respectfully walk around it in a bow. Those are elephant seals; the behemoths lie there in dozens, dozing off. Their short flippers stand out, seeming to end in five long fingers with actual fingernails.

Elephant seals can dive up to one and a half kilometres deep in search of food and can easily stay underwater for a hundred minutes

Elephant seals

 

More than eighty percent of an elephant seal's life is spent underwater. They are excellently equipped for this. A massive layer of blubber insulates them against the extremely cold water. They can dive up to one and a half kilometres deep in search of food and can easily stay underwater for a hundred minutes. Rays, squids, octopuses, and even large fish and small sharks had better watch out when elephant seals are around.

Rays, squids, octopuses, and even large fish and small sharks had better watch out when elephant seals are around

Elephant seals

Elephant seals

 

Hannah Point

But now they need rest. Their outer layers of skin are shedding in large pieces. Blood vessels reaching through the thick layer of blubber will bring a new skin to life. But that requires a lot of energy. Moreover, they are very sensitive to cold during the moult. So, there's nothing better than finding a safe spot on land to rest while nature does its work.

 

Liverpool Beach, Ustra Peak

As we continue walking along the beach, parallel to the coastline, we traverse slopes of volcanic ash. To our right, the rather modest Ustra Peak rises just under two hundred meters above the sea level.

 

Imperial shag

Kelp gull

We frequently observe one penguin chasing another along the beach. It's a comical spectacle, as the pursued penguin appears to be in mild panic while the pursuer shows no signs of stopping. Often, they sprint together for dozens of meters, weaving through the colony.

Growing chicks are naturally assertive and demand their rightful share without much ado. And they prefer it delivered promptly

Penguin chick chases parent		Feeding the chick
Coughing up partially digested food…		…and passing it on to the chick

That's a typical scene from the life of a penguin family with growing chicks. Here and there, you can see penguin parents feeding their young. The parent regurgitates partially digested food from its stomach, and the chick picks up the slimy substance from the parent's wide-open beak.

In a traditional penguin family, there are usually two chicks. As soon as the first chick is satisfied, the second one is ready to eat. Growing chicks are naturally assertive and demand their rightful share without much ado. And they prefer it delivered promptly.

 

That must have tasted good...

The parent often can't keep up with that pace. Regurgitating food takes time. But the chick doesn't understand that. For the parent, there's nothing else to do but to start running, chased by the hungry chick. Careful observation teaches us that eventually, every chick gets its share.

We've had our fill too. With gentle insistence, Ab unrelentingly urges us back into the zodiac. As the very last ones, we leave the paradisiacal beach behind. By five o'clock, everyone is back on board the Sea Spirit.

 

Cleaning boots, leaving Hannah Point

A half hour later, the Polar Plunge is finally on the schedule. Thirteen volunteers are allowed to take the plunge. Those showing any health risks are barred. Thirteen times, amidst loud cheers, an icy splash resounds. With a rope around their waist, the daring divers can be pulled back in if something goes wrong. A second zodiac is floating within easy reach for safety. But the stunt goes off without a hitch. A few minutes later, you can find the thirteen polar bears in the Jacuzzi on deck 4. Everyone gathers there for a group photo.

This marks the end of a fantastic experience. It deserves something festive. With some amazement, we find that chef Francis manages to serve delicious fresh sushi and sashimi after eight days at sea. Scurvy is definitely not a concern here. If only Adrien de Gerlache could see us now.

Captain Oleg has meanwhile set sail for the return journey. Regarding the Drake Passage, Jonathan reassures us that we don't have much to fear. While during the outbound journey we encountered waves up to six meters high, tomorrow it will be limited to waves of two to three meters, with occasional peaks of four meters.

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Wednesday 31 January | Drake Passage

Sea birds sporadically join us to keep us company. A radiant sun reigns unchallenged over the tranquil, blue sea. Yet, a slight swell is palpably present. Landlubbers like us can't escape it.

 

Drake Passage

It will be a day of lounging and savouring the memories. Also, a day of lectures in the lounge. For example, about the historic expedition of Adrien de Gerlache by his official biographer, Jozef. But he immediately surprises us. It wasn't Adrien de Gerlache who was the first Belgian to venture far into Antarctic waters; it was a certain Dirck Gerritszoon. Although we must interpret the term Belgian quite broadly in this context because Belgium didn't even exist in 1598. And the man himself would nowadays be called a Dutchman because he hailed from Enkhuizen on the IJsselmeer. It was his wealthy financiers who provided the Belgian connection. They were people from Antwerp who had settled in Rotterdam while fleeing from the Grand Duke of Alba.

Dirck Gerritszoon in 1599 supposedly saw high mountainous land, completely covered with snow, like the land of Norway

Funding the discovery of Antarctica was not at all the intention of those wealthy financiers. They ponied up their money to explore the trade route to the East Indies via the Strait of Magellan. But due to misfortune, things turned out differently. In 1599, Dirck Gerritszoon saw his ship drift far south. There, he supposedly saw high mountainous land, completely covered with snow, like the land of Norway. Presumably, this was one of the South Shetland Islands.

This observation is not entirely undisputed, and scientific research should shed more light on it. But if it were to be confirmed, von Bellingshausen, Bransfield, and Palmer would be dethroned from their pedestal – their discoveries date back to 1820, more than two centuries later.

Back to Adrien de Gerlache. The team he managed to recruit for his Antarctica expedition aboard the Belgica in 1897 included men from no less than six nationalities. Among them were heavyweights such as the Norwegian Roald Amundsen, the future discoverer of the South Pole, and the American Frederick Cook, the self-proclaimed discoverer of the North Pole.

Originally, the plan was to explore the Ross Sea and Victoria Land, all the way on the other side of Antarctica. But things would turn out differently. They encountered one delay after another in Tierra del Fuego. The ship ran aground regularly, four sailors had to be dismissed due to insubordination, and the scientists on board constantly wanted to go ashore again, enthusiastic as they were about the unknown fauna and flora they encountered. Even a generous donation of 120 tons of coal from the Argentine government threw a spanner in the works. It was a gesture they could hardly refuse, but the actual delivery took far too long.

In the end, there was no choice but to adjust the destination of the expedition. They would focus on the Antarctic Peninsula. And even that did not go smoothly. A storm in the Drake Passage proved fatal for sailor Wiencke. On 22 January 1898, he was swept overboard. Afterwards, Adrien de Gerlache named the island where Port Lockroy is now located Wiencke Island.

They ventured further and further south, via a wide waterway they called the Belgica Strait, which would later be named the Gerlache Strait. When a storm on 28 February broke up the pack ice, de Gerlache seized what he saw as an opportunity and ventured 167 km deep into the pack ice. That they became stuck on 20 March 1898, could not have come as a surprise. This is evidenced by the resistance of the scientists, who feared not surviving the adventure and were mainly concerned that their discoveries would be lost. But de Gerlache stood his ground. His expedition became the first to overwinter within the Antarctic Circle.

de Gerlache stood his ground. His expedition became the first to overwinter within the Antarctic Circle

Wintering of the Belgica (1898)

On 15 May the polar night began. For sixty-six days, it remained completely dark. Meanwhile, we know that Émile Danco would not see the sun rise again. On 5 June his heart condition proved fatal. Afterwards, Adrien de Gerlache named three hundred kilometres of coastline along the Antarctic Peninsula the Danco Coast.

Wintering in Antarctica was no walk in the park. Especially not at that time. Diseases were a recurring problem. The usual ration of canned food was supplemented by fresh meat from penguins and seals, thanks to Frederick Cook, the ship's physician. But no one liked it. It wasn't until scurvy reared its head that the fresh meat became popular. Moisture was also a problem – they found their breath freezing to the ceiling, melting, and dripping down.

Cook even applied a form of light therapy. No one had done that before, but he achieved results

Maintaining some level of fitness was another challenge. For this purpose, Cook had a path laid around the boat. Each crew member had to walk around it for at least half an hour daily – they soon dubbed this spectacle the madhouse walk.

In his battle against what we now call Seasonal Affective Disorder, a type of winter depression caused by the absence of light, Cook even applied a form of light therapy avant la lettre – he had the men sit shirtless in front of an open, glowing stove. No one had done that before, but he achieved results.

There was constant fear that the frozen Belgica would be crushed by the ice, that the drift of the pack ice would take them closer to the South Pole, or that icebergs would come their way. Ultimately, the ship, surfing on the pack ice, would travel a whopping one thousand kilometres – from 80° W to 100° W between the 70th and 72nd parallel.

That didn't stop them from meticulously continuing their scientific measurements. For instance, famous is the photo Cook took of the helpless ship during the long polar night. Indeed, during the polar night, with an exposure time of 90 minutes in moonlight.

One might think the trial is almost over. Far from it. Six months later, in January 1899, they were still firmly stuck in a layer of ice 2.6 meters thick

On 23 July, it finally happened. The sun reappeared above the horizon, a little higher every day. You might think the trial is almost over. Far from it. Six months later, in January 1899, they were still firmly stuck in a layer of ice 2.6 meters thick.

They decided to do the impossible. A little further – 675 meters to be exact – was an open waterway. If they could reach it, they could penetrate further north through some cracks. So they set to work with picks, shovels, ice axes, chisels, and ice saws to dig a canal. On 15 February, the feat was accomplished. The Belgica could free itself and reached the open sea on 14 March 1899. They were back in Antwerp on 5 November.

The results of the expedition are beyond doubt. They mapped hundreds of kilometres of coastline, many bays, and islands. They discovered the first terrestrial fauna, including the famous Belgica Antarctica, a wingless insect endemic to the continent. They conducted the first thorough study of the local flora.

Claiming land and planting flags was not their thing – much to Cook's disappointment, incidentally

What they had no interest in were territorial claims. Claiming land and planting flags was not their thing – much to Cook's disappointment, incidentally. As nations like Great Britain, New Zealand, France, Australia, Norway, Chile, and Argentina began to claim parts of Antarctica, similar interest subsequently grew in Belgium. Eventually, everything was in place to assert Belgian sovereignty over the areas mapped by de Gerlache. But World War II threw a spanner in the works. Since then, Belgium has kept its claim open, as did the United States and the former Soviet Union.

 

Southern giant petrel

Such an achievement as that of Adrien de Gerlache surely called for a sequel. Exactly 110 years later, Dixie Dansercoer¹⁾, the famous explorer, took on that challenge. On 16 September 2007, they departed from Nieuwpoort aboard the Euronav Belgica, a fifteen-meter sailboat with seven men on board – four Belgians, a Bulgarian, a Swiss, and an American. They would take 69 days to reach Antarctica, six of which were spent in the Drake Passage.

The film In the Wake of the Belgica tells us about Dixie’s epic journey. It was not just an adventurous trip; the exploit was explicitly placed in the context of the International Polar Year 2007/2008 and the impact of climate change on fragile Antarctica. Each of the twenty landings made by de Gerlache was meticulously replicated. The exact same photos as those taken by Cook at the time were captured. You can compare them side by side and witness the evolution firsthand – the resemblance is sometimes astonishing. But why de Gerlache chose those specific landing sites back then remains a mystery to Dixie.

Although it nearly ended in disaster, as the Euronav Belgica also became stuck in the pack ice. For a moment, it seemed they would even follow in Adrien de Gerlache's footsteps with a wintering experience. But calling for help was not in their vocabulary. The ordeal lasted only one day, not 332 days like in the past. A storm arose and dispersed the pack ice.

It is known that Dixie was not new to this. If you ask him about his inclination, he identifies as bipolar – with a slight preference for the North Pole over the South Pole. The dynamics of the landscape play a part in this, as well as the variation in light, and, well, the danger. Suddenly encountering a polar bear is no joke.

Not only subjectively, but also objectively, the differences between the Arctic and Antarctica are significant, Dixie adds. In the north, you have an ice layer two to three meters thick above an ocean that sometimes reaches depths of four kilometres. In the south, you have an ice layer four kilometres thick on the continent. In the north, you inhabit a very humid and predominantly salty environment, with animals that you can encounter up to the pole. In the south, however, you have a very dry, rather sweet environment with animals that exclusively inhabit the edges of the continent. In the Arctic, you encounter permanent human habitation, while in the Antarctic, there is a constant coming and going of scientists and explorers. And tourists.

Adventure does not exist; poor preparation does. At least, this was Roald Amundsen's adage

Adventure does not exist; poor preparation does. At least, this was Roald Amundsen's adage. For modern polar travellers, this is still the motto. Saving weight has become a true obsession for Dixie. He even removes the labels, strings, and staples from tea bags. And yet, at the beginning of his three-month journey with Alain Hubert across Antarctica, he had a sled weighing 184 kg. Ultimately, only 85 kg remained, including the sled itself weighing 14 kg.

 

Black-browed albatross

Dixie provides one kilogram of food per day, freeze-dried, to be precise, as it offers tremendous advantages. It takes up less volume and weight, it lasts longer, and – not to be underestimated – the taste is better preserved. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner thus follow a fixed pattern, starting with dissolving a food packet in snow water.

 

Black-browed albatrosses

Where the first polar explorers struggled to move across the ice plains, the introduction of snow kiting – surfing over snow and ice with a kite – has brought about a true revolution. When conditions were favourable, Dixie and Alain managed to cover distances of 400 to 500 km in a single day, driven by the Antarctic winds.

When conditions were favourable, Dixie and Alain managed to cover distances of 400 to 500 km in a single day, driven by the Antarctic winds

Navigation – another challenge. Since the magnetic South Pole is over 2,800 km from the geographic South Pole, you can't use a compass on Antarctica. How do you navigate then? You rely on the sun, the wind, and... the sastrugi, the rugged, toothed ice structures worn by the wind. If you can read the structure of a sastrugi, then you know from which direction the prevailing wind blows at that spot, Dixie concludes. It's as simple as that.

On the outer deck of the Sea Spirit, it turns out that the firmament is still invariably blue. The calm, deep blue sea sparkles in the sunlight. Sea birds follow the ship in its trail of splashing foam. We recognize black-browed albatrosses and giant petrels. But also an Antarctic prion and a Cape petrel catch our attention. Strangely enough, we had missed those birds last week.

Antarctic prions aren’t difficult to recognize, as they have a dark letter M airbrushed on their back and wings. Their number is estimated at 50 million. These small petrels are therefore not threatened with extinction. They like to feed on zooplankton such as copepods and krill, which they sieve from the water with their beak. If they feel threatened, they do not hesitate to spray part of their stomach contents over the intruder.

If they feel threatened, they do not hesitate to spray part of their stomach contents over the intruder

The same applies to the Cape petrel. It has a very beautiful black and white speckled plumage. Normally, when a Cape petrel is nearby, you can assume that land is nearby, but that is not yet the case. Their greatest enemy is the brown skua, which preys on both chicks and mature birds.

 

Black-browed albatross

Back in the lounge. Slava, our Russian nature guide, tells the story of the Norwegian Roald Amundsen. From a young age, he showed a passion for polar exploration. He gained his first experiences in whaling. However, it was the knowledge he acquired at the age of 25 with Adrien de Gerlache on the Belgica that proved to be invaluable. Throughout that long wintering, Amundsen was constantly engaged in experiments regarding food, clothing, skis, tents, sleds... you name it.

As if that experience wasn't enough, Amundsen then overwintered twice more, in 1903 and 1907. But then he took matters into his own hands. Being the first person to reach the North Pole was his plan. And that plan immediately fell apart. Frederick Cook and Robert Peary had beaten him to it, respectively in 1908 and 1909 – although they never could conclusively prove their claims afterwards.

Being the first person to reach the North Pole was his plan. And that plan immediately fell apart

On board the Fram, heading towards the North Pole, Amundsen casually informed his crew that they were actually heading towards the South Pole. Reportedly, this was greeted with enthusiasm, as they considered a journey across Antarctica much less boring.

On 14 January 1911, they landed at the Bay of Whales, near Roosevelt Island on the edge of the Ross Ice Shelf, south of New Zealand. There they built their base Framheim to overwinter. Mostly buried in snow, to minimize the use of materials.

They brought along a hundred sled dogs. These were fed seal meat. But they also ate from it themselves. Gradually, they accumulated a stockpile of five tons of meat and installed it at intermediate depots on the way to the geographic South Pole.

 

Cape petrel

Meanwhile, the British explorer Robert Scott was also on his way to the South Pole, Philippe adds to Slava's story. Philippe knows what he's talking about – he was involved in the construction of the Princess Elisabeth Station on Antarctica in 2007. In 1901, Scott had already attempted to reach the South Pole first. His base camp was then at Hut Point, a peninsula of Ross Island, also on the edge of the Ross Ice Shelf. However, his endeavour showed more enthusiasm than thorough preparation. At 82° south latitude, with still 850 km ahead, he had to give up the fight. He was forced to return to Hut Point.

However, Scott’s endeavour showed more enthusiasm than thorough preparation

Moreover, the British Royal Geographical Society didn't think much of Scott's Antarctica obsession. After all, there was no economic value to be gained at the South Pole. It would be a waste to spend money on such frivolous expeditions. Scott had to look for his sponsors elsewhere.

So, in 1911, it came down to a race – Amundsen versus Scott. Again, Scott had wintered on Ross Island, but this time at Cape Evans, at the foot of Mount Erebus, the largest and most active volcano in Antarctica. Both teams had to trek through the Transantarctic Mountains. There, they would have to climb up to 3,200 meters high.

On 8 September Amundsen made his first attempt to depart. But that was too ambitious. With a temperature of minus 50 °C (minus 58 °F), it was still too cold. A second attempt on 19 October was more successful. They set out with four sledges and 52 dogs. Each sledge carried a load of 75 kg.

 

Southern royal albatross

On the other hand, Scott had to wait until 1 November. This was due to his ponies. Instead of relying solely on dogs, he had opted to purchase Yakutian horses, a Siberian type of ponies. However, even for these ponies, it was initially too cold to depart.

Along the way, they would regularly kill the weakest dog and feed it to the others

Additionally, Scott utilized three motor sledges on caterpillar tracks. That also did not go entirely smoothly because the vehicles were plagued by breakdowns, and Scott had dismissed the technician from his team at the last moment.

On 14 December 1911, accompanied by four teammates and sixteen dogs, Amundsen reached the South Pole. Along the way, they would regularly kill the weakest dog and feed it to the others. They safely returned to the Framheim base on 25 January 1912 with eleven dogs still remaining.

 

Cape petrel

Scott fared worse. From 1 January 1912, he continued with a limited team of four men. Initially, the weather conditions seemed favourable. On 17 January 1912, they reached the South Pole, only to find that Amundsen had beaten them to it – he had planted his flag and left a message there 34 days earlier.

As if that wasn't enough, they encountered bad weather on their return. A snowstorm forced them to wait in their tent for nine days.

But inadequate preparation also played a part. The temporary depots were sometimes difficult to find because they were poorly marked. From some barrels, it turned out that a portion of the fuel had evaporated due to the heat of the sun – a phenomenon that Amundsen was aware of, which is why he had his barrels sealed shut. Thawing food became increasingly difficult. Moreover, the food was found to lack sufficient vitamins B and C, causing their strength to decline even faster. And importantly, the food supply was calculated for four men, while a fifth man was added at the last minute.

They died of starvation just 18 km from One Ton Depot, a large food supply

Ultimately, the team failed to reach the last depot. Three survivors remained, but they died of starvation just 18 km from One Ton Depot, a large food supply. Their last diary entry is dated 29 March. Ironically, this depot was originally supposed to be located 30 km further inland. In that case, they would have just made it. But Scott had wanted to spare the dogs on the way out.

It was not until the following summer season, on 12 November, that a rescue team found the snow-covered tent with the frozen bodies. And on 10 February 1913 the wives of the team members, along with the rest of the world, would learn of the fate of the Terra Nova expedition a year earlier.

 

Meanwhile on the Sea Spirit...

Our experience will surely be less tragic. Around eleven o'clock tomorrow, we will reach the entrance of the Beagle Channel. At the Isla Nueva, we will take a pilot on board. Although Captain Oleg may have sailed through many Arctic and Antarctic waters, here he must allow a Chilean pilot beside him on the bridge. Otherwise, we are not allowed to enter the Beagle Channel.

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Thursday 1 February | Beagle Channel – Ushuaia

Approaching the Beagle Channel

The heavy swell wakes us up early. The Sea Spirit rolls over the waves, and we roll in our beds. The weather has deteriorated somewhat. The sea is rougher now, and the wind has increased in strength. Sea birds constantly hover behind the ship – black-browed albatrosses, great skuas, Antarctic terns, and even cormorants. In the distance, the mountains of Tierra del Fuego beckon.

 

Black-browed albatros

Black-browed albatros

A few dolphins tumble ahead of the bow. They flash through the air lightning-fast. You blink for a moment, and they're gone. Yet, experts can identify them as dusky dolphins.

 

Dusky dolphin

Like orcas, dolphins are toothed whales, with real teeth made of calcium, not cartilage, Eduardo informed us. They don't filter krill like baleen whales do. Instead, they actively hunt their prey, especially sardines and lanternfish, although they also enjoy squid. They locate these prey using echolocation.

 

Kelp gull…

…with loot

Dolphins are highly social animals. They live in groups ranging from a few dozen to several hundred individuals. Moreover, they are known for their intelligent behaviour. Once they locate a school of sardines, dozens of other dolphins will quickly join in. Together, they corral the sardines in a cylindrical column of water, creating a gigantic buffet table from which they can take bites at will.

 

Imperial shags

Antarctic tern

Seabirds glide back and forth around the ship. Often, groups of dozens of black-browed albatrosses bob on the water. Bald rocky islands with colonies of Magellanic penguins, sea lions, and cormorants slowly drift by.

 

Dolphin between black-browed albatrosses

Just before two o'clock, we pass Les Éclaireurs, the lighthouse erected here almost a century ago.

 

Imperial shags

One last time, expedition leader Jonathan addresses us in the lounge. We've covered approximately 1,800 nautical miles. That's over 3,300 kilometres. Keeping our memories of Antarctica pristine won't be a problem. But for Jonathan, that's not enough. We must become ambassadors of the white continent. Antarctica is pristine, and it must remain so. We must inspire friends, acquaintances, children and grandchildren, to advocate for this cause. They must exert lasting political pressure – even when we are no longer here, he emphasizes mercilessly – to preserve Antarctica in its pristine state.

For Jonathan, that's not enough. We need to become ambassadors of the white continent

Magellanic penguins, elephant seals, imperial shags

Because in 2048, the Antarctic Treaty will expire. At all costs, we must avoid the continent falling prey to resource extraction or economic and military activities thereafter. Only if the world population is sufficiently mobilized by then can this be prevented, he concludes passionately. We know what needs to be done in the next thirty years. Let's make a note of it in our agenda.

At all costs, we must avoid the continent falling prey to resource extraction or economic and military activities

Ushuaia

It's twenty minutes to three when the Sea Spirit comes to rest in the port of Ushuaia. It's sunny and summery warm there – about 12 °C (54 °F). Half an hour later, the ship is cleared by the authorities.

Thus ends our expedition, a modest exploration of the most northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula. For us, a journey of just fourteen days, but for the early polar explorers, a hellish endeavour that often took two to three years and sometimes took their lives.

For how can you learn everything about an elephant when you can only glimpse the tip of its trunk?

It was a revelation of a marvellous nature – dazzling, pristine, untamed, relentless. But the heart of the continent will always remain shrouded in mystery for us. For how can you learn everything about an elephant when you can only glimpse the tip of its trunk?

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Jaak Palmans
© 2024 | Version 2024-01-17 16:00

 

1) Dixie Dansercoer tragically passed away on 7 June 2021, during an expedition in Greenland. While crossing the ice cap from south to north – a journey of 2,200 km with a snowkite – he fell into a deep crevasse. His body will likely rest eternally in an environment that he cherished.