In the wake of Adrien de Gerlache

Antarctica | Anno 2018

 

Monday, January 22 | Ushuaia

Tuesday, January 23 | Ushuaia – Beagle Channel

Wednesday, January 24 | Drake Passage

Thursday, January 25 | Drake Passage

 

 

Monday, January 22 | Ushuaia

You find active volcanoes there. It's on average the highest continent in the world, even higher than Asia with its Himalayas and Tibetan plateau. It's one of the driest areas on Earth, drier even than the Atacama Desert or Death Valley.

You’re going from one surprise to the next when you start reading about Antarctica. Terra Incognita, they called this continent for centuries. And that’s still what it largely is, an Unknown World.

Not only is it an unknown world, but also a distant one. It will take us almost four days to get there, and almost another four days to return. Spoiled as we are, we dare to call that a long journey. Adrien de Gerlache would be surprised by that. After all, in 1897 aboard his Belgica, it took him more than 150 days – one way.

 

Ushuaia

Following in the footsteps of that famous explorer, we are now heading to the end of the world. That's at least how they like to call themselves in Ushuaia, the southernmost tip of Argentina. There, Baron Bernard de Gerlache will join us, the oldest grandson of Adrien. Because our trip will partly be dedicated to the wonderful achievements of his grandfather. It's been precisely 120 years since Adrien dared to overwinter in Antarctica for the very first time. His ship was stuck in the Antarctic ice for more than a year.

It's overcast but dry as we land at Aeropuerto Internacional Malvinas Argentinas of Ushuaia just after seven in the evening. A cool wind greets us. That doesn't surprise us. But if we thought we would land in the twilight, we were mistaken. It seems like broad daylight, with the sun quite high in the sky.

Lupe is waiting for us to coordinate everything. She hails from Mendoza, Argentina, 2,400 km away, but has been working in Ushuaia for eleven years now. She has three buses with her, as well as a truck that will carry the more than two tons of luggage our group of over a hundred participants is dragging along.

As is the case every year around this time, the Antarctic season is in full swing. Ninety percent of expeditions bound for the Antarctic region depart from the port of Ushuaia. Several boats are docked, ready for the great crossing. Tomorrow, the Emerald Princess will join them, a floating village with 3,560 passengers and 1,346 crew members on board.

 

Ushuaia – Bahía Encerrada

We're lucky with this lovely weather, Lupe remarks. The thermometer shows a pleasant 10 °C (50 °F). But that's not always the case. Take last week for example. For three days on a row, the temperature rose to an unbearable 23 °C (73 °F). Just imagine that. It was sweating and panting for the 80,000 residents of Ushuaia. We nod empathically.

For three days on a row, the temperature rose to an unbearable 23 °C (73 °F). Just imagine that. It was sweating and panting for the 80,000 residents of Ushuaia

Or take the snowfall a few years back. There were four meters of snow then. Just stepping out of the house to do groceries became an adventure akin to a small polar expedition. Trying to navigate the sloping streets felt almost like attempting suicide.

Talking about Ushuaia is talking about prison. Because it wasn't until 1902, with the construction of a penal colony for and by serious repeat offenders, that this unassuming settlement in a distant corner of Argentina was pulled out of anonymity. The prison would remain in operation until 1946.

Before that, only the Yahgan lived here. They were the ones who gave the place its name – Ushuaia, which means Deep Bay. At the time, there must have been about three thousand of them, but nowadays the Yahgan are almost completely gone from the scene. No one speaks Yámana anymore, the language of the Yahgan – except for an 82-year-old lady, Lupe mentions.

The Yahgan mostly went about naked. In this harsh climate, you'd have to be quite mad to do so

Yet Tierra del Fuego, which means Land of Fire, indirectly owes its name to the Yahgan. Because when Magellan gave that name to the harsh land in 1520, it wasn't smoking volcanoes or glowing lava flows that prompted him to do so. It was the countless fires of the Yahgan that inspired him. They always had fires at hand – in their huts, during the hunt, even in their boats.

There were reasons for this. Because the Yahgan mostly went about naked. They smeared their bodies with animal fat, sometimes wearing only a seal skin over their shoulders. In this harsh climate, you'd have to be quite mad to do so.

Yet, they benefited from it. If you have to gather mussels day in, day out – often in the rain – or chase sea lions in a boat to scrape together a living, your clothes are constantly wet. That can't be healthy.

 

Ushuaia – Former Prison

Wreck of the St. Christopher

Partially submerged in shallow water, the wreck of the St. Christopher slides past the window while the bus heads for the hotel. It has been lying there for over half a century, about fifty meters from the dock, virtually untouched. According to Lupe, it has become one of the icons of Ushuaia in the meantime.

This has everything to do with the disaster that struck the cruise ship Monte Cervantes. The rock that tore open the hull of the ship below the waterline had not been charted at that time. Initially, panic aboard was great – it was January 22, 1928, and the catastrophe of the Titanic was still fresh in memory. However, they managed to bring all 1,117 passengers and 255 crew members of the cruise ship safely ashore. Only the captain would not survive the disaster. The Capitán Dreyer Street in Ushuaia reminds us of that.

Fortunately, there was the prison to put a large portion of the tourists to sleep

Offering shelter to nearly fifteen hundred uninvited guests was no easy task at that time. Ushuaia itself had barely eight hundred residents. Fortunately, there was the prison to put a large portion of them to sleep – albeit with less luxury than they were used to.

For many years, the Monte Cervantes remained where it lay. Until rising metal prices after the Second World War made salvaging the ship profitable. One of the boats deployed for this in 1953 was... the St. Christopher. But it also ran into problems and ultimately stranded here off the coast to become a lasting symbol of those events.

Ushuaia remained a neglected region for a long time. It wasn't until 1980 that things changed when the government began granting tax benefits to companies that established themselves here. They could now import tax-free. Companies around the port began to sprout up like mushrooms almost overnight.

But it's tourism that now accounts for the lion's share of economic activity. Ushuaia almost lives off tourism. This is primarily thanks to the Antarctic expeditions, of course.

Yet, the wild nature of Tierra del Fuego also contributes to the tourism industry. The Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego has become a real attraction. But even there, problems have arisen, Lupe regrets. In 1946, 25 beavers were introduced from Canada. The fur trade was a lucrative business. But the animals thrived in this region. Too well, in fact – nowadays, there are a hundred thousand of them.

But the beavers thrived in this region. They thrived too well, in fact

And what do beavers do? Beavers fell trees. They build dams. No problem, at least not in Canada. There, those trees regenerate in a matter of decades. But the southern beech trees that dominate the landscape in Tierra del Fuego – the lengas, the guindos, the ñires – take about two hundred years to mature. That led to a downright deforestation, something this vulnerable nature cannot withstand.

Lupins are blooming profusely along the road. They too were introduced. But for the time being, they do no harm.

Like an eagle's nest, the hotel towers above the city. Just after eight, we arrive there. The view of Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel is breathtaking. But it's mainly the bed that interests us. Because it's been over 34 hours since we left home. Tomorrow, we'll embark on the second part of our journey – the daunting crossing of the Drake Passage.

Top

Tuesday, January 23 | Ushuaia – Beagle Channel

The Beagle Channel contentedly basks in the mild morning sun. For now, it seems, according to the forecasts, it has no intention of giving way. We realize with a hint of amusement that it will be another day of sweating for the folks down there in Ushuaia.

 

Ushuaia – M/V Sea Spirit

In the harbour, the Sea Spirit is moored. It will be our home base for the next ten days. In the distance, the Emerald Princess is also approaching. But that giant must first navigate a wide curve around the islands before it can dock. That will take a few more hours.

 

Beagle Channel – Emerald Princess

Dolphin gull

Unfortunately, Bernard de Gerlache will not be joining us after all, we learn during the briefing. He had to withdraw just last Friday. But a replacement is already in place, and what a replacement it is. Count Thibaut de Briey, in his thirties and son of Henrianne de Gerlache, granddaughter of Adrien, will be joining us. So, the fourth generation takes over from the third. Thibaut was already in South America and saw no objection to immediately packing his bags. That's something that doesn't happen to us very often – being in South America and suddenly being needed in Antarctica.

That's something that doesn't happen to us very often – being in South America and suddenly being needed in Antarctica

It's a quarter to eleven when we descend to the city with three buses. Meanwhile, our luggage is already on its way to our cabins aboard the Sea Spirit by truck. Almost exactly ten years ago, on January 24, 2008, a bust in memory of Adrien de Gerlache was unveiled here. This Belgian explorer is the last in a long line of polar explorers, each commemorated with a bust along the promenade. He is also the only foreigner, as the other busts are of Argentinians.

But while the other illustrious figures have modest cement pillars, our Adrien rests on a column of marble – from the Italian Carrara, no less. One of the driving forces behind the establishment of this monument was Jozef Verlinden, a Belgian historian and official biographer of Baron Adrien Victor Joseph de Gerlache de Gomery, as he is called in full. The bust itself is the work of Jos Carmans, a sculptor from Hasselt, Belgium. That’s no coincidence either, as it is in that city that Adrien de Gerlache was born in 1866.

Bold dolphin gulls, harsh weather conditions, and an occasional earthquake – that surely is not a healthy cocktail for a bronze bust outdoors. But with some touch-ups, it looks splendid now on this special occasion.

 

Bust of Adrien de Gerlache with (left) Dixie Dansercoer, Count Thibaut de Briey and Carlos Vaira

It was the very first scientific expedition to Antarctica, emphasizes Thibaut, as he recalls his great-grandfather's achievements in his brief speech. It was also the first expedition to overwinter in Antarctica. They were trapped in the Antarctic ice for nearly a year, 66 days of which were in complete darkness. However, this did not prevent them from making unique scientific observations throughout that time.

Exceptional was also the multinational team on board, with heavyweights such as Frederick Cook and Roald Amundsen. A few years later Cook would claim to have been the first man to reach the North Pole, while Amundsen became the first man to stand on the South Pole.

And all of this aboard the Belgica, a three-masted ship with a length of barely 36 meters and an engine of 35 horsepower – nowadays, even the most basic zodiacs are equipped with engines ranging from 40 to 60 horsepower. They didn't have long-distance radio, internet, or satellite connections. They navigated using pen, compass, and sextant.

And all of this aboard the Belgica, a three-masted ship with a length of barely 36 meters and an engine of 35 horsepower

Museo Marítimo y del Presidio – Model of the Belgica

It's been exactly fifty years since the first tourists set sail from Ushuaia to Antarctica in 1968, adds Carlos Vairo. He is not only the director of the Museo Marítimo y del Presidio but above all its driving force. It was his idea to house a museum in that former prison.

Several sections of the museum are dedicated to Antarctica and Adrien de Gerlache. So, off we go, while the first raindrops begin to fall. Originally, it was intended to be a building with eight wings, arranged in a star shape around a central rotunda. That way, you could easily keep an eye on all the corridors from one point, always useful in a prison. In practice, it ended up being only five wings.

As a reminder, a huge peninsula from Antarctica still points like a beckoning finger towards South America

One of those wings has been preserved in the state in which the cells were back then. Bitter cold, that's the prevailing impression you get here. In another wing, we are presented with stories about life in the prison – the food, the health, the work, the punishments, the censored correspondence, the massive iron chains prisoners were shackled with around their ankles whenever they were moved...

But it's the exhibition about Antarctica that we're particularly interested in. Half of a prison wing is dedicated to it. It's no coincidence that there is so much interest in Antarctica here. Once, Patagonia was part of what is now the Antarctic region. As a reminder, a huge peninsula from Antarctica still points like a beckoning finger towards South America.

Antarctica is thus only a breath away from here. Barely 800 km water separates the two continents. If you want to reach Antarctica from Australia, you have to travel 2,500 km, and from South Africa, it's even 4,000 km. This makes Ushuaia the ideal base for tourist expeditions to the Antarctic region.

A prominent place is reserved for Adrien de Gerlache's Belgian Antarctic Expedition, again thanks to his biographer Jozef Verlinden. This includes a model of the Belgica and the famous, razor-sharp photo of the motionless ship during the polar night in the moonlight – taken with an exposure time of 90 minutes.

It's unimaginable what swims and flies in these waters. Some of those creatures are even quite tasty. Especially the king crab is highly sought after.

The fact that the Yámana Museum is being renovated is a small disappointment. So we head to the End of the World Museum instead. It's quite crowded, but that's not surprising. The museum is located right by the port, and admission is free. The intention to make it an interesting museum clearly is there, but the necessary resources are not. The whole place looks dusty and outdated. We learn a bit about the Yahgan and the local fauna. Impressive is the huge collection of stuffed animals. It's unimaginable what swims and flies in these waters.

Some of those creatures are even quite tasty. We can confirm this firsthand at Tia Elvira's. Especially the king crab is in high demand.

 

Emerald Princess

Meanwhile, the Emerald Princess with its 3,500 passengers has docked. In the shadow of that white monster, our Sea Spirit – a respectable ninety meters long – is reduced to a tiny toy boat. But the feared tourist tsunami doesn't materialize. Only a handful of passengers bother to descend from their ivory tower and, well, devour a king crab in the city.

 

Ushuaia

The moment we've been waiting for is finally approaching. To say we're eager to board the Sea Spirit is an understatement.

It's just a few hundred meters' walk from the parking lot to the gangway. However, for this short journey, we have to take the buses for safety reasons. The Argentine government considers this brief trip more or less as a border crossing, and they wish to exercise strict control over it. Later, once aboard, we'll have to surrender our travel passports.

Moments later, we climb aboard with a basket full of expectations – possibly even larger than the Emerald Princess

At exactly four o'clock, we're dropped off at the gangway of the impressive M/V Sea Spirit. Moments later, we climb aboard with a basket full of expectations – possibly even larger than the Emerald Princess. Several crew members are awaiting us with broad smiles. In the lounge, they already have an aperitif and a snack prepared for us, a prelude to the pampering we will willingly endure over the next ten days.

 

M/V Sea Spirit

Meanwhile, expedition leader Jonathan Zaccaria welcomes us aboard. He, along with the captain, will chart our course – determining which landing sites we'll visit, where the kayaks will be launched, and where we'll be able to overnight on land. Because you can't plan that in advance. Weather forecasts in Antarctica are indeed a tricky matter.

 

M/V Sea Spirit – Zodiacs

He has a wealth of experience, this Frenchman from the vicinity of Lille, as we read in his biography. He was twenty-four when he first wintered in Antarctica at the Dumont d'Urville station. It's reputedly the windiest place on Earth, with wind speeds of 200 km/h being normal and gusts reaching up to 320 km/h. After that, he spent a polar winter at the Concordia station, on the Antarctic plateau. Also not an easy place to stay, as it is one of the coldest places on Earth, with summer temperatures of –25 °C (–13 °F) and winter temperatures dropping to –84 °C (–119 °F). With such a man on board, polar novices like us can rest assured.

 

M/V Sea Spirit – Kayaks

With genuine warmth, cabin steward Mario welcomes us as we search for our spot for the next ten days. It's a fairly spacious, comfortable cabin where everything is securely fastened, and drawers and doors lock with a click. Because in a few hours, our first challenge awaits: the crossing of the Drake Passage. A rough sea awaits us there. Or a calm sea. Or something in between. Insiders refer to it as either a turbulent Drake Shake or a tranquil Drake Lake.

A rough sea awaits us there. Or a calm sea. Or something in between. Insiders refer to it as either a turbulent Drake Shake or a tranquil Drake Lake

The Sea Spirit is certainly not small, with its length of 90 meters. Yet it's not too large to manoeuvre easily through narrow passages and enter small bays. Ideal for exploring the polar regions, especially with its ice-strengthened hull. However, this doesn't mean it's designed to break through pack ice – it's not an icebreaker. Nevertheless, small ice floes don't pose an immediate danger.

 

M/V Sea Spirit – Bridge

In open water, the Sea Spirit reaches 14.5 knots. For landlubbers like us, that's roughly 27 km/h. It was launched in Italy over a quarter of a century ago, in 1991, but since then it has undergone several refurbishments – the latest in 2017. Nowadays, its home port is Nassau in the Bahamas, where it is also registered.

The departure is scheduled for around five o'clock. However, the Emerald Princess has thrown a spanner in the works. That giant is about to depart and demands its priority.

They are all captivated by an immense passion for the polar world. And that passion seems to be highly contagious to us

M/V Sea Spirit – Lounge

Cabin

While the Sea Spirit remains docked, we settle into the lounge on deck 3 for our first briefing. This is also where the scientific lectures will take place every day. Jonathan takes the floor. Four large screens against the wall support his presentation with crisp imagery and maps.

The ship has a total of seventy-three crew members, we learn. These include not only the officers on the bridge and the sailors on the decks and in the engine rooms but also the so-called hotel team – those who run the cabins, the kitchen, the restaurant, and the bar. And let's not forget the physician on board, reachable by phone at extension 201.

Furthermore, there's Poseidon Expeditions, the London-based tour operator specialized in polar expeditions. They send Jonathan and a team of experts to lead the expedition technically and scientifically – including a geographer, a geologist, a glaciologist, a biologist, an ornithologist, a photographer, an engineer, nature guides, kayak masters, and even a musician to set the mood in the bar.

As we progress, we'll realize how multinational these teams are. Altogether, there's an enthusiastic bunch of about twenty nationalities roaming around here

As we progress, we'll realize how multinational these teams are – from Guatemala to Ukraine, from Finland to New Zealand, from Peru to the Philippines. Altogether, there's an enthusiastic bunch of probably about twenty nationalities roaming around here.

 

M/V Sea Spirit – Dining room

Bar

Finally, there's Asteria Expeditions, the Belgian tour operator that chartered this expedition. They also have a professional team – a seasoned polar traveller, one of the builders of the Princess Elisabeth Station, a nature photographer, a writer, a filmmaker, a historian, a communication coordinator, and even a great-grandson of Adrien de Gerlache.

All of them are captivated by an immense passion for the polar world, that much is clear. And we realize we must be careful, because that passion seems highly contagious.

Onboard hygiene is crucial, Jonathan continues. An epidemic is something we absolutely cannot afford. Therefore, we must sanitize our hands at least three times a day. Dispensers with disinfectant gel are placed for this purpose at the entrance of the restaurant.

The motto onboard is always to keep one hand for the ship and one hand for yourself. This ensures that you have a hand free at all times in case you suddenly lose your balance. Also, we must be cautious with open doors, as they can unexpectedly close on a moving ship. But the greatest danger for a ship is fire, as there's nowhere to escape in case of a fire outbreak. Hence, it's crucial to adhere to the general smoking ban.

Antarctica is pristine, and it must remain so. Therefore, we should take nothing, leave nothing, and lose nothing – not even accidentally

Antarctica is pristine, and it must remain so. Therefore, we should take nothing, leave nothing, and lose nothing – not even accidentally. To reduce the risk, each person will only be provided with one bottle of mineral water, which can be refilled as often as desired at the bar.

Communication with the outside world will be scarce. No phone calls, no emails, no WiFi, no radio, no TV. Exceptionally, communication can be made via satellite phone or ship's mail. However, there is an excellent library on board, stocked with hundreds of books, particularly about the polar regions. We will also have access to daily printed world news.

 

M/V Sea Spirit – Library

Captain Oleg on the bridge

Furthermore, an open bridge policy is in place. Day and night, we're welcome to visit the bridge and even have a chat with the officers, as long as we don't disrupt operations and refrain from reminding the ever-smoking Captain Oleg that the smoking ban applies there too.

Now, let Antarctica come, we're ready for it. Or almost ready. Because Jonathan apparently has one last assignment for us – a Lifeboat Drill.

At a quarter to seven the exercise starts. Seven short, one long blast sounds through the ship's sirens. Following the instructions, we put on warm jackets and hurry with the life jacket under our arms to one of the four muster stations. For us, it's the club on deck 4. Skipping the exercise is not an option, as our cabins are checked behind our backs.

With some effort, we fasten the life jackets. They make us look like puffed-up Michelin men cheering for the House of Orange-Nassau. Once again, there's a strict check – is everything in place?

Then the four groups set off. Without any interference, they move like long strings through the corridors and up the stairs of the ship, heading to the assigned lifeboats. For us, it's lifeboat 2 on deck 3.

There the exercise ends. The life jackets can go back in the closet. Hopefully for good. Only a long, uninterrupted signal from the siren could disrupt things. Because then, a real evacuation awaits us.

The Sea Spirit is still motionless at the dock when we head to the restaurant on deck 2 at half past seven. Tables and chairs are anchored to the floor.

Monica, Miguel, Rey, Juan, and many others are there, cheerful and ready for smooth service. Their good mood doesn't seem to be affected by working seven days a week. And neither does their work rhythm. They sleep on deck 1, below the waterline. Almost all of them have Filipino nationality. On average, they stay on board for nine months. Because once the Antarctic season is over, the Sea Spirit cruises to Arctic waters in six weeks, and the hustle begins again.

 

Ushuaia

At twenty past eight, the ship suddenly starts booming. The engines are running – finally, we're departing, flashes through our minds. But for the moment, nothing happens. Another twenty-five minutes later, the moorings finally loosen. Freed from all hindrances, the Sea Spirit sails eastward into the Beagle Channel. We barely discern the stately silhouette of the Emerald Princess ahead of us.

 

Ushuaia

Islands densely populated with cormorants, Magellanic penguins, and sea lions glide past the window in the distance. The delicate wink of Les Éclaireurs is visible every ten seconds. Since 1920, this lighthouse has been a beacon for ships navigating to Ushuaia.

The burning question is what awaits us tomorrow in the Drake Passage. Waves of three to five meters high have been forecasted

Beagle Channel

But the question that concerns us all, of course, is what awaits us tomorrow in the Drake Passage. Waves of three to five meters high have been forecasted by Jonathan earlier. The day after tomorrow, it's expected to calm down a bit, with waves of two to three meters high.

Those who are not at ease, already have been sticking a scopolamine patch behind their ear.

Top

Wednesday, January 24 | Drake Passage

Deep into the night, around two o'clock, we leave the Beagle Channel behind us. Initially, we don't notice much because we're asleep. However, we do feel the Sea Spirit beginning the eight-hundred-kilometre crossing of the Drake Passage. The sea becomes rougher, and the ship starts rolling on the turbulent waves. We roll around in our beds along with it, quite cosily.

 

Drake Passage

Upon waking up, there's no sign of the sun. The weather is clear, but thick clouds obscure it from view. Foam caps appear regularly on the high waves.

Like drunken sailors, we navigate through the cabin. A cautious manoeuvre often turns into brisk tiptoeing when we misjudge our steps. Soon, we have a mental map of all reliable support points in the cabin.

We learn to dress while seated, always click doors shut, and close drawers securely. We become wary of slamming doors and learn to pull our fingers away just in time whenever needed.

 

Drake Passage

In the corridor, Mario has hung paper bags over the handrail. Every meter or so, there's one on each side. Just in case... It sets quite the atmosphere. Reportedly, there has been the occasional stumble and upset stomach. But nothing serious. Given the weather conditions, it seems the elevator is also out of order.

In short, a hearty breakfast of bacon and eggs is just what we need. Miguel takes care of that in no time. The floor going up and down doesn't bother him in the least. He effortlessly navigates between the tables with a huge tray filled with glassware and porcelain balancing on his fingertips. And all this while wave peaks regularly rise high above the restaurant’s windows.

It's certainly not going to be a dull day on the open sea today. Behind the ship, it's bustling with activity. The ship's propeller continuously churns up nutrient-rich seawater. Seabirds don't miss this opportunity. Gracefully, they soar above the waves as if it requires no effort at all. They skim past the wave crests, sometimes their wingtips seeming to touch the water.

Seabirds skim past the wave crests, sometimes their wingtips seeming to touch the water

Black-browed albatross

From the aft deck, we spot our first black-browed albatross. It's a beautiful bird with an impressive wingspan of 2.4 meters. Above its eyes, it has a black stripe, resembling eyebrows. The open ocean is its primary habitat, only coming ashore to breed, specifically on the Falkland Islands or South Georgia – over 1,500 km away from here.

In just five years, the number of breeding pairs there has decreased by a staggering eighty thousand, according to Ab, our Dutch ornithologist. Since then, efforts to protect the species have been intensified.

With a wingspan of 3.4 meters, the southern royal albatross is one of the largest albatrosses

Southern royal albatross

Our black-browed albatross is joined by a southern royal albatross. With a wingspan of 3.4 meters, it is one of the largest albatrosses. It distinguishes itself from its slightly smaller cousin, the northern royal albatross, by a black line between its cheeks. For Ab, that's crystal clear, but for us, it's a bit less so. Both species breed on islands in the vicinity of New Zealand.

 

Giant petrel

The giant petrel cannot be missing from this line-up, of course. With a wingspan of two meters, it can navigate quite well here. Unlike the albatross, it feels equally at home on land. It feeds on krill and squid but also dares to attack smaller seabirds.

The southern giant petrel is mainly distinguished from its northern counterpart by the greenish colour of its bill tip – whereas its northern cousin has a reddish tip. It's easy to remember, according to Ab. Just think of a traffic light: north is up and therefore red, south is down and therefore green.

 

Cape petrel

Much smaller is Wilson's storm petrel, darting swiftly behind the ship – barely 40 grams, with a wingspan of 42 cm. Swimming is not its forte. Instead, it skims its feet just below the water's surface to snatch krill.

These seabirds share several unique characteristics, as Ab explains. First, their wings are proportionally much longer compared to their body than other birds. This adaptation allows them to fly above the ocean for extended periods. Near the water surface, the wind is somewhat broken, resulting in lower wind speeds. Therefore, seabirds are often seen skimming low over the water, then soaring upwards as if sailing against the wind. This enables an albatross to easily reach speeds of 80 km/h without even flapping its wings.

On land, seabirds actually walk on their knees. Usually that doesn't work out so well

Seabirds also have small tubes on their beaks, called salt glands, through which they excrete excess salt. They ingest salt when scooping up food from the water. In albatrosses, these glands are located beside the beak, while in storm petrels, they are positioned on top.

On land, seabirds actually walk on their knees. Usually that doesn't work out so well. Only the giant petrel has sturdy legs and can move quite well on land. Fortunately, seabirds have little business on land. They only need to be there for breeding purposes. If they want to rest during their long flights, they do so by floating on the seawater.

 

Southern royal albatross, black-browed albatross

We head down to the lounge and pick up our expedition parkas, our Muck boots, and our neck warmers. We'll need them once we go ashore shortly. Meanwhile, it has started raining outside.

The rough seas here are all thanks to the Antarctic Circumpolar Current, explains expedition leader Jonathan. Driven by westerly winds, this ocean current has been circulating clockwise around Antarctica for millions of years, encountering no significant obstacles along the way. Sailors also refer to it as the West Wind Drift. They feared it, for sailing against this current around Cape Horn or the Cape of Good Hope was always a perilous task. The dozens of shipwrecks around Cape Horn still bear witness to this.

 

Giant petrel

But there's more. The Antarctic Circumpolar Current has Antarctica in an icy grip. The ocean current prevents the cold Antarctic water from mixing with warmer water from the north. The boundary line between the two waters is called the Antarctic Convergence Zone. The exact location of it varies from year to year. Suddenly, the sea water becomes colder and saltier. Not that we will notice this change, but the onboard instruments will register a drop in water temperature – from about 7.8 °C to 3.9 °C (46 °F to  39°F).

Once upon a time, the continent we now call Antarctica had a tropical climate. It was home to ferns, conifers, and mammals

Once upon a time, the continent we now call Antarctica had a tropical climate. It was home to ferns, conifers, and mammals. Reptiles like dinosaurs thrived there, as evidenced by fossils found in the region. Along with South America, Africa, India, and Australia, Antarctica formed the supercontinent Gondwana.

About one hundred and eighty million years ago, that supercontinent began to break apart. One by one, the other continents released Antarctica and found their own place on the world map. Antarctica drifted southward and reached the South Pole about one hundred million years ago. There, it is much colder, as much less solar heat enters. For many months, it is even completely dark. The cooling of the continent could begin.

South America was the last continent to release Antarctica. That must have happened about 25 to 35 million years ago. Our world maps still remind us of that separation. The Antarctic Peninsula and the southern tip of South America point to each other as if they were the fingers of God and Adam in the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City.

As the continents drifted further apart, the passage we now call the Drake Passage widened, the Antarctic Circumpolar Current intensified, and Antarctica became increasingly isolated from the warmer northern regions. So, Antarctica becoming the coldest continent on Earth is not only due to its position at the South Pole.

That didn't stop them from inventing Antarctica from their armchairs – after all, they were philosophers

The ancient Greeks knew nothing of all this. But that didn't stop them from inventing Antarctica from their armchairs – after all, they were philosophers. The Earth is a sphere, the reasoning went, and that sphere floats in a fluid. At the ‘bottom’ of that sphere, there must be a counterweight, if only for symmetry reasons. On the northern hemisphere, you had Arctica, named after the most important constellation there, the Great Bear – άρκτος in Greek. So, the counterweight was called anti-Arctica or Antarctica. Later, the Europeans would use the names Terra Incognita and Terra Australis.

 

Black-browed albatross

On average, Antarctica has an area of 14 million square kilometres. On average, mind you. Because in winter, the formation of pack ice swells the continent to an area of about 20 million square kilometres. That's twice as large as Europe with its 10.4 million square kilometres or the United States with its 9.8 million square kilometres.

 

Black-browed albatross

Millions of years of snowfall have deposited an enormous ice sheet over the continent. The central ice cap is a staggering three to four and a half kilometres thick. When you have to bear such a mass of ice, it inevitably leaves its mark. Antarctica is systematically pushed downward as a result, to the extent that half of the continent lies below sea level. If you were to simply remove that ice, the continent would slowly rise – much like the Norwegian fjords are still doing now that they have been freed from the glaciers of the Ice Ages.

If you were to simply remove that ice, Antarctica would slowly rise – much like the Norwegian fjords are still doing now that they have been freed from the glaciers of the Ice Ages

Ninety percent of all ice worldwide is located in Antarctica. Another nine percent is locked up in Greenland. This means that only one percent of the world's ice reserves are found in ice fields and glaciers elsewhere. Additionally, two-thirds of the world's freshwater supply is here. If all this ice were to melt, sea levels would rise by sixty meters. Most coastal towns around the world would then be under water.

On the other hand, if all the ice in the Arctic were to melt, it would make no difference because this ice floats on water. In fact, the Arctic is the opposite of Antarctica – it's water surrounded by land, instead of land surrounded by water. The Arctic doesn't have a physical boundary. By agreement, it has been established that the isotherm where the average temperature in summer doesn't exceed 10 °C marks the edge of the Arctic.

The idea of all the ice in Antarctica melting is currently unthinkable. Nevertheless, there is constant movement in that ice. Due to its own weight, it slides off the slopes into the sea. Then there are two possibilities. Either the ice forms a glacier, regularly calving icebergs at the waterline. Or it forms one of the giant ice shelves that float on the water. Sometimes, pieces break off. These are the gigantic tabular icebergs that can easily rise 200 meters above the sea. In 1956, one broke off with an area of 32,000 km² – larger than Belgium.

In 1956, a gigantic tabular iceberg with an area of 32,000 km² broke off – larger than Belgium

Not only does ice slide off the slopes, but cold air can also tumble down the slopes and gain speed along the way. This creates the infamous katabatic winds, which can reach speeds of up to 200 km/h. These winds then drive the Antarctic Coastal Current just below the coast, a sea current that flows counterclockwise around Antarctica – opposite to the direction of the westerly winds.

 

Giant petrel

Cutting through the continent is the Transantarctic Mountain Range, which spans three thousand kilometres in length and averages 3,500 meters in height. It is an extension of the Andes – unlike the American Rocky Mountains, which are sometimes incorrectly claimed to be the same.

The highest peak in this range, and indeed the highest on the continent, is Mount Vinson. According to the most recent measurements, it stands at 4,897 meters high, slightly taller than Mont Blanc.

Antarctica also has its volcanoes. The most active among them is Mount Erebus on Ross Island. It has been active for 1.3 million years and still experiences small eruptions regularly.

 

Southern royal albatross

Jonathan's explanation delves into the complexities of the south poles. Yes, poles in the plural. For us, one South Pole sufficed thus far. But he mercilessly punctures that simplicity. What we commonly refer to as the South Pole turns out to be the geographical South Pole. It's the point where the meridians intersect, the spot where the Earth's rotation axis pierces its surface. It's also the place where, regardless of the direction you face, you're always looking north.

As a polar explorer, your compass is useless to you because the magnetic South Pole lies in the open sea, over 3,000 kilometres away from the geographical South Pole

But there's also the geomagnetic South Pole, the southernmost point of the Earth's magnetic field, situated near the Russian Vostok Station. And there's the pole of inaccessibility, the point on the polar ice cap furthest from the coastline on all sides, making it the most difficult to reach.

And of course, there's also the 'regular' magnetic South Pole that we all think we know. It's the point your compass stubbornly points towards. As a polar explorer, you have no use for it because this point lies in the open sea, far from Antarctica, over three thousand kilometres from the geographical South Pole.

All in all, Antarctica is the driest area on Earth, receiving less than two centimetres of snow per year. Polar explorers know this guarantees nosebleeds and the like. Along the coast, where we will briefly stay, winter temperatures don't drop below –20 °C (–4 °F). In the interior, however, summer temperatures don't exceed –25 °C (–13 °F), while in winter, temperatures easily plummet to –60 or –70 °C (–76 to –94 °F), with a record low of –89 °C (–128 °F).

 

Southern royal albatross

In such conditions, life doesn't stand a chance. Even bacteria can't survive here. That's at least one silver lining – you can't catch a cold here. But you won't find any land animals here either, simply because there's no food available on the continent. Only in the sea can you find food. If you want to see animals, you'll have to visit the coast and the islands. And that's precisely what Jonathan has planned for us.

If you want to see animals, you'll have to visit the coast and the islands. And that's precisely what Jonathan has planned for us

The abundance of food in the sea is partly due to the ocean currents. They bring the food up to the surface. Once spring arrives and the pack ice melts, phytoplankton – mainly algae – rise to the surface. Nowhere else in the world will you find so much food in the water. Krill and other shrimp-like invertebrates feast on it. In turn, this zooplankton becomes a veritable feast for humpback whales, seals, penguins, and a whole host of fish species. They all flock to it from far and wide.

 

Giant petrel

After the discovery of America in 1492 and the voyages of Vasco da Gama and Magellan, the search for the last white spot on the world map became a true obsession. In 1513, the Ottoman navigator Piri Re'is published a world map on which a coastline south of Africa was drawn, which could be interpreted as Antarctica. In 1775, James Cook completed his three-year voyage completely around Antarctica – naturally clockwise, with the westerly winds at his back – without ever sighting land.

Ultimately, it was probably Fabian von Bellingshausen who, on January 27, 1820, first sighted Antarctica on behalf of the Russian tsar. However, the British reject that claim and put forward Edward Bransfield as the discoverer of Antarctica.

Undoubtedly, it was anonymous seal hunters or whalers who first discovered Antarctica

But undoubtedly, it was anonymous seal hunters or whalers who first discovered the continent, Jonathan concludes. Because they navigated this region intensively. But for commercial reasons, they had every interest in keeping their discovery to themselves. They certainly did not think it was a good idea to disclose the location of beaches where many animals could be found.

 

Black-browed albatross

Cape petrel

On December 1, 1959, the Antarctic Treaty was signed. Military activity on the continent has been prohibited since then, and freedom of scientific research is the norm. One of the twelve founding countries is Belgium. The fact that Belgium is part of this select group is solely thanks to Adrien de Gerlache.

During the summer, about a thousand people work on Antarctica, and during the winter, about twenty

Currently, there are about fifty active stations on Antarctica. During the summer, about a thousand people work there, and during the winter, about twenty. Jonathan can speak about this, as he was one of them several years ago. But tourists are also active on this continent. Approximately forty thousand tourists arrive by boat each year.

To manage this in an organized manner, the IAATO was established in 1991, the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators. The main concern of the operators involved is to organize safe, sustainable, and environmentally friendly tourism in Antarctica.

The message is to leave Antarctica pristine. Take nothing, leave nothing, not even lose anything, Jonathan reminds us once again. Historical relics should be left untouched, even if they are no longer in use or largely dismantled.

There are no trails on Antarctica, but we should always follow the paths. That means following the routes that our guides will mark with red flags. Two crossed flags mean prohibited passage.

Vegetation is rarely encountered on Antarctica, but if it is present, we must not trample on it. This is fatal for delicate plants, as footprints can still be visible decades later.

Animals in Antarctica are not afraid of humans, which is remarkable considering that seal hunters and whale fishermen have been here. But no matter how cute they are, we should always maintain a respectful distance so as not to disturb the animals. At least five meters away. Because this is their land, and we are only guests.

Introducing organic material to the coasts or transporting it from one island to another is obviously not an option. Disinfecting boots before and after each landing will therefore be a regular ritual.

Disinfecting boots before and after each landing will therefore be a regular ritual

But even that is not enough to prevent contamination. The biosecurity procedure requires that we thoroughly clean all items that have been outdoors – hats, backpacks, camera bags, tripods, and the like. Velcro strips, in particular, require extra attention. We will diligently clean them with vacuum cleaners in the lounge.

 

Drake Passage

Meanwhile, the sun has broken through the clouds. It's going to be a sunny afternoon, and the ocean is showing off its beautiful blue colour. The open-air jacuzzi and the fitness room are deserted, while the bar and the library are getting more attention.

The wind has calmed down a bit. That's good news because the ship is rocking less now. We are also making better progress, and our very first landing is expected to happen tomorrow around three o'clock. But that's also bad news because the seabirds are absent. They have gone elsewhere in search of more wind and better thermals.

In 1820, the Essex was deliberately rammed and sunk by a sperm whale in these southern waters

We reserve the evening for the spectacular story of the Essex, a whaling ship from Nantucket, Massachusetts. In 1820, it was deliberately rammed and sunk by a sperm whale in these southern waters. Herman Melville wrote his bestseller Moby Dick about it. Ron Howard adapted the epic once again in 2015 under the title In the Heart of the Sea. Watching the adventures of the sailors in storms and rough seas on TV while our ship gently sways on the waves is a unique experience.

Top

Thursday, January 25 | Drake Passage

The days of lazing around are over; life aboard is undergoing drastic changes because there is work to be done. From now on, we will be mercilessly awakened every day. This task will be carried out with unhealthy enthusiasm by Bettina, the German staff member. Via the intercom, she will bombard us every morning at seven o'clock with a mix of music and mild irony. Only a veiled Zarah Leander voice is missing.

From now on, we will be mercilessly awakened every day at seven o’clock. This task will be carried out with unhealthy enthusiasm by Bettina

Incidentally, time zones do not exist in Antarctica. Ships usually use the time of the port from which they departed. For us, that is Argentine time.

Around three o'clock this morning, there was supposedly heavy swell. We didn't notice anything, although the swell can still be felt well upon awakening. Visibility is limited, and a fine, light drizzle is misting down from the dense, grey clouds.

It seems that polar exploration is in the blood of the descendants of Adrien de Gerlache – at least his offspring from his second marriage to Swedish Elisabeth Höjer. In 1957, their son Gaston was one of the driving forces behind the second Belgian expedition to Antarctica.

Today, Count Thibaut de Briey, grandson of Gaston, presents us with the film L'Antarctique en héritage in the lounge. This film is by his cousin Henri de Gerlache, also a grandson of Gaston. The main theme of the film is a lengthy interview with grandfather Gaston.

Surprisingly, the story of the polar expeditions of Adrien and Gaston begins with a dive in the Norwegian coastal waters. This is where the Belgica lies on the seabed since a German air raid in 1940, near the town of Harstad, destroyed it.

From the wreck of the Belgica, the story moves on to Adrien's expedition – the financing, the recruitment, the long journey south, the overwintering in Antarctica, the liberation from the ice, and the return to Belgium. Throughout the winter, they continued to take measurements aboard the Belgica. Two hundred scientific articles resulted from this afterwards.

Sixty years later, in 1957, it was Gaston's turn. Under his leadership, another Belgian expedition set off for Antarctica, this time to establish the King Baudouin Base.

It almost ended in disaster when their plane hit a sastrugi during a reconnaissance flight, Gaston recalls

It almost ended in disaster when their plane hit a sastrugi, a steep ice wall formed by the wind, during a reconnaissance flight, Gaston recalls. It was Russians from the Vostok station – 2,800 km away – who came to their rescue ten days later with a C47.

 

Penguin

The first ice floe

A similar scenario unfolded a few months later when the boat meant to relieve the Belgians couldn't reach the base. Once again, the Russians offered assistance. This was something the Americans couldn't let slide. Promptly, they sent an icebreaker. It was the time of the Cold War, Gaston chuckles. Just a few months after the interview, he would pass away in Oudenaarde, East Flanders, Belgium in 2006, at the age of 87.

 

Penguins

Just before twelve, a water fountain is briefly visible in the distance. Experts identify an orca as the culprit, although the animal itself does not appear. Then, the shiny backs of penguins emerge from the water. Like dolphins, they swiftly cut through the water, occasionally gasping for air.

 

Land in sight ... or almost

Finally, we are approaching land, there is no doubt about it anymore. Although, for now, there is nothing visible on the horizon.

Top

Jaak Palmans
© 2024 | Version 2024-01-12 16:00

Continue reading in (2/5)

Sleeping in a snow pit