Assisting each other in mating

Argentina | Anno 2017

 

Tuesday, October 31 | Punta Tombo

Wednesday, November 1 | Península Valdés

Thursday, November 2 | Puerto Madryn – Ushuaia

 

 

Tuesday, October 31 | Punta Tombo

You'd better put some stones in your pockets if you don't want to be blown away. The steppes here are endless, harsh, and empty. It can be bitterly cold and scorching hot, stormy and windless, drizzling, sunny, and foggy – all within a 24-hour span. Yet, there is a mythical allure to this region – we are talking about Patagonia.

It's a gigantic area, this southern tip of Argentina and Chile. With an area of 2,780,400 square kilometres, Argentina alone ranks eighth on the world's list of large countries. That might not mean much, but the country is as large as Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Benelux, Germany, France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal combined.

Only a third of that is referred to as Patagonia. Add the Chilean part, and you get an area of about a million square kilometres for Patagonia – still as large as France and Germany combined.

Approximately 70 % of that consists of endless grasslands. We find it extremely fascinating. At least for the first three minutes. After that – yawn – we'd like to see something else.

Endless grassland, we find that exceptionally captivating. At least for the first three minutes

Being selective, we prefer to visit the most beautiful spots in that vast land. So, we'll be making leaps of a thousand kilometres or more. Starting from Buenos Aires, we'll touch down here and there. It's like departing from Norwegian Oslo to grace Hamburg and Munich in Germany, Nice and Paris in France with our presence for a few days and then returning to Oslo.

It's a tiny airport, Aeropuerto El Tehuelche in Puerto Madryn, amidst a landscape as flat as a billiard table, over a thousand kilometres south of Buenos Aires. Bare, treeless grass steppes stretch in all directions as far as the eye can see. A cool breeze caresses our cheeks. Patagonia, there you are finally.

Relief is written on Leoni's face as she finally welcomes us because we've experienced quite a delay due to a pilot strike. The park rangers already know we are on our way, she assures us. And the central administration has already agreed to keep the park open a bit longer. Because we're heading to the Punta Tombo peninsula, where the largest penguin colony in South America has its regular spot.

A lady who knows how to get things done, this Patagonian. She tells us that a mix of Spanish and Italian blood flows through her veins. Supplemented with a slight Syrian touch, she chuckles.

A mix of Spanish and Italian blood flows through her veins. Supplemented with a slight Syrian touch

Southward it goes now, via the fast Ruta Nacional 3 through a barren landscape. This region doesn't have much to offer for the farmers. Grass steppes form the typical habitat for most of Patagonia. If you want to raise sheep here, you need at least one and a half to two hectares (3,5 to 5 acres) of grass steppe per sheep. However, it has been a bit greener in recent years, according to Leoni, because it has rained a bit more.

The boundaries of this enormous area are not strictly defined. Usually, everything south of the Río Colorado is considered part of Patagonia – although some exclude Tierra del Fuego. About three million people live there. In terms of population density, Patagonia is comparable to countries like Australia and Namibia.

Patagão, that's what the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan called this area when he first landed here in 1520. It had everything to do with the Tehuelche people he encountered here. They were very large people, dressed in guanaco hides. He even called them giants. Compared to the Spaniards, who were rarely taller than one and a half meters at the time, that's accurate – the Tehuelche must have been about two meters tall.

But the popular imagination went wild. Enthusiasts talked about people three to four meters tall. And Patagão became the land of the Bigfeet – even though pata means not foot but paw in Portuguese.

That myth would persist for many centuries. It has only recently become clear that Magellan was probably inspired by a popular Spanish chivalric romance from 1512. The hero takes on a giant who lives on a remote island. People wear animal hides and eat raw meat there – just like the Tehuelche. The name of that giant? Patagόn.

 

Punta Tombo – Magellanic penguins

Like a long finger with arthritis, Punta Tombo juts out into the sea. The origin of the name for this pointed peninsula is no longer traceable. Perhaps it refers to the Tehuelche graves found in the hills or the events involving a French ship that is said to have buried many of its dead here.

In any case, this is a place where Magellanic penguins feel at home. There are about a million of them, building their nests on this narrow landmass, three kilometres long and several hundred meters wide. They find the sandy, clay, and gravel ground here exceptionally suitable for nesting.

 

Penguins, we spontaneously associate them with snow, ice, and bitter cold. That's completely inaccurate

Magellanic penguins

Penguins, we spontaneously associate them with snow, ice, and bitter cold. That's completely inaccurate, says Leoni. At least not for the penguins belonging to the genus Spheniscus. This genus includes four species, she lists them off the top of her head – the Magellanic penguins of Argentina and Chile, the black-footed penguins of Namibia and South Africa, the Humboldt penguins of Chile and Peru, and the Galapagos penguins of the islands of the same name. That archipelago is located on the equator, so apparently, penguins are found even there.

 

Magellanic penguin

You will never find Magellanic penguins on the ice; rather, you'll encounter them in a semi-desert environment like the coasts of Patagonia. There, you can meet them up to a kilometre from the shore. Almost like sheep, Leoni amusingly summarizes the concept.

In winter, Magellanic penguins stay in warmer waters to feed. In summer, they come ashore to breed – roughly from September to April. But they are still penguins. It shouldn't get too warm. Currently, it's about 15°C (59 °F) due to the strong wind bringing cold air from the Andes. However, at this time of year, the temperature can be as high as 28°C (82 °F). Even a spheniscus doesn't appreciate that. So, they build their nests under bushes or even in tunnels, providing some protection against predators.

 

Magellanic penguins

We have covered sixty kilometres since our departure from Puerto Madryn. However, colourless dullness still dominates the landscape in this endless, flat semi-desert. Grass and low bushes are literally the only things you see.

 

Magellanic penguin

Now a change is coming. Just for a little while. Because the bus has begun its descent into the valley of the Río Chubut. This river originates in the distant Andes and crosses Argentina for a distance of 800 km before flowing into the Atlantic Ocean.

On the bank of this river, a few hundred settlers established themselves in 1865. For once, they weren't Italians or Spaniards but Welshmen. They named their settlement Trelew – City of Lewis, after their leader Lewis Jones. Before their arrival, only nomadic Tehuelche lived here, surviving through hunting.

Thanks to the river, Trelew is doing quite well. Thanks to Trelew the river is not doing so well anymore

Thanks to the river, Trelew is doing quite well. The city now has more than a hundred thousand inhabitants. There's some agriculture and fruit cultivation – carrots, lettuce, cherries, apples, pears, red berries. But conversely, it's thanks to Trelew that the river is not doing so well anymore. Its name, Chubut, meaning clear water, has not been accurate for a long time.

 

Magellanic penguin

No matter how barren the steppe may be, sheep occasionally appear, grazing on the sparse grass. Throughout the year, they live outdoors and feed on what nature provides. For water, they rely on small windmills that pump up groundwater.

 

Magellanic penguin

These are Merino sheep, considered one of the best sheep breeds globally. The wool from their dense coat is of excellent quality, fine, and soft. Shearing takes place every year in November, a necessity not only for the shepherd but also for the sheep. This is because their wool never stops growing, a result of centuries of selective breeding. If the sheep are not shorn, they may struggle to walk on their legs, risking overheating and even blindness.

 

Magellanic penguin

It's already quarter past five as we turn onto the unpaved road to Punta Tombo. Strictly speaking, this is private property because these lands are part of Estancia La Perla. This farm has seven thousand sheep. The peninsula where the penguins reside originally belonged to the sheep farm as well. However, the owner has since ceded it to the government.

The terrain becomes a bit hilly now, and occasionally, we catch a glimpse of the Atlantic Ocean in the distance. Cars frequently pass us going in the opposite direction, having already left the park.

 

Magellanic penguin

Back to the penguins. As winter approaches in April, they shed their feathers and dive into the water. Riding the cold ocean current from the Islas Malvinas – Leoni means the Falkland Islands – they swim until they reach the south coast of Brazil. They are even spotted near Rio de Janeiro, a whopping three thousand kilometres away.

Throughout those months, they stay at sea, where their food is. Squid, octopuses, krill, and small crustaceans are on the menu. They don't come ashore during this time, as they have nothing to look for on land until the breeding season approaches again.

Magellanic penguins are monogamous, even across seasons. Sometimes, a relationship can last a lifetime. There isn't much difference between males and females. Males, weighing around five kilograms, are generally slightly heavier than females, who average four kilograms. Furthermore, males have a slightly broader beak and a more pronounced forehead, but you must be an expert to notice these distinctions.

At the end of August, the first males come ashore. Immediately, they seek out the old nest and put in effort to repair and enhance it. About ten days later, the females arrive. Being choosy, they thoroughly inspect the nest beforehand. Only when everything is in perfect order can reproduction be considered, along with everything that comes with it.

 

Hats off to the penguins that manage to raise both young successfully

 

In the first week of October, the eggs arrive – two per couple. Immediately, the incubation process begins. Initially, the female takes the lead, and after a few days, the male takes over. This rotation continues for 44 days. While one partner incubates, the other searches for food at sea.

Once the eggs hatch, the chicks are fed in the nest. This is done with fish that have already been partially digested into a kind of paste. Just three months later, the chicks are as large as their parents. In early February, they shed their fluffy baby feathers and leave Hotel Mama for good.

However, they will return to Punta Tombo every year. In the first few years, only to shed their feathers. It's only when they reach the age of four that they will start breeding.

If things go well, penguins can live to be 30 to 35 years old. But it's far from guaranteed. They face numerous enemies – foxes, armadillos, wildcats, caracaras, red-backed hawks, skuas, kelp gulls, and more. Hats off to the penguins that manage to raise both young successfully.

It's already close to six o'clock as we finally begin our walk through the Área Natural Protegida Punta Tombo. It's quite cool, and there's a strong wind.

 

Pichi or dwarf armadillo

Guanaco

Suddenly, a few pichis or dwarf armadillos dart away at lightning speed. It's astonishing how quickly they vanish among the bushes on their short legs. They typically feed on beetles, ants, and scorpions, but they won't turn down a small baby penguin.

Gradually, the first nests appear under the bushes beside the path. In each nest, a penguin is incubating white eggs slightly larger than a chicken egg. However, our presence doesn't seem to bother them at all.

 

In essence, penguins walk in a squatting position

As far as the eye can see, you can observe the black-and-white bodies waddling among the bushes. This waddling is a result of their body structure. When a penguin stands upright, its hip joint is lower than its knee joint. In essence, penguins walk in a squatting position.

Equally impressive as the visual spectacle is the overwhelming screeching that intensifies as we approach. It's the sound of penguins, calling out to their partners with mouths wide open. Their beaks point straight up while they vigorously flap their wings against their bodies. This action propels air from their lungs through their throat to produce their cries.

On the beach, there's a constant flow of penguins diving into the water or returning with their catch. Often, their nests are located many hundreds of meters inland, sometimes even more than a kilometre. However, they seem unfazed, calmly waddling to their destination.

 

European hare

A lean European hare nervously nibbles among the penguins. It is on edge, not missing any movement in its surroundings. In the water around the rocky coast, a few sea lions poke their heads up.

Also, some guanacos make themselves noticed. They are the wild counterparts of llamas. Grazing carefreely, they have no enemies to fear here.

 

Chimango caracara (f)

From a bush, a chimango caracara surveys its surroundings. A male lands on her back. However, she wants nothing to do with his advances, and he has to leave immediately.

Chimangos will become a familiar sight for us in the coming weeks. This small caracara is the most widespread bird of prey in Patagonia. Insects, small vertebrates, and carrion are on its menu, but it can also snatch a live fish just below the water surface.

 

Chimango caracara (m and f)

Everything comes to an end. At least, that's what the ranger seems to think as she gently, but insistently, starts guiding us back towards the entrance just before seven.

 

Sea lions

Lunching didn't happen today. It's half past seven when Jorge pulls out our lunch boxes on the bus. As he begins the long journey, we focus on a thick sandwich and a handful of cold, limp fries.

Just before ten, we arrive at the hotel in the coastal town of Puerto Madryn. It's now drizzling. With our lunch barely digested, we settle into the restaurant. Dining at eleven at night is no surprise to any Argentine.

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Wednesday, November 1 | Península Valdés

The whole night, the wind howls whistling past the facade. In the morning, dense clouds hang over the city. The palm trees in front of the hotel sway gently in the wind. It's quite cold on the streets.

Puerto Madryn currently has a population of one hundred thousand. It hasn't always been like that. Half a century ago, there were only six thousand inhabitants. You can credit this steep increase to a large aluminium company that settled here in 1970, recalls Leoni.

Since then, aluminium processing has become the primary activity in the region, with fishing coming in second. Fish is immediately frozen and exported because Patagonians are not big fans of fish. Beef is their thing.

When a Patagonian organizes an asado, a barbecue, they will order at least half a kilogram of meat per person. Real meat, emphasizes Leoni. Besides that, there will be generous servings of sausages, salami, ham, and the like – things that can hardly be called real meat, right?

Besides the ‘real’ meat, there will be generous servings of sausages, salami, ham, and the like

Usually, such a barbecue starts around eleven in the morning, although that's a flexible concept. Because a true Argentine sees it as his civic duty to be late for appointments. First, there are snacks like cheese, ham, and salami. Only then are the meat masses tackled. This will last all day, generously doused with wine.

Tourism is also an essential pillar of local prosperity, primarily thanks to the proximity of Península Valdés, a peninsula with a spectacular wildlife – sea lions, elephant seals, penguins, orcas, southern right whales, etc.

In 1999, the peninsula was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. However, this decision was not without struggle. The area had around fifty sheep farms, and they were not willing to give up their land. Discussions with UNESCO lasted four years. But in the end, the stubborn Patagonians got their way. The farms stayed put, albeit under strict conditions. A small fishing community was also allowed to remain. This created a unique situation in the world – a piece of world heritage where commercial activities are carried out. Or a place where you can find sheep among penguins.

A narrow isthmus connects the peninsula to the continent – on the map, it looks like a mushroom growing like a thick pimple on the coast of South America. With an area of 3,625 km², it's approximately two-thirds the size of Greater London.

 

Punta Pirámides – Southern right whales

No matter how hard seals, sea lions, and elephant seals try, it's the southern right whales that steal the show here. For these whales, the warm waters of the bays on either side of the stem of the mushroom are an ideal breeding ground. Every year, they appear from the distant Antarctic waters to give birth and raise their young between June and December.

This attracts masses of tourists, but they are not interested in mass tourism here. Ecotourism is the norm. Only in Puerto Pirámides, they offer boat trips for whale watching. Only six companies have a permit, and each of them is allowed only one boat on the water at a time.

No matter how hard seals, sea lions, and elephant seals try, it's the southern right whales that steal the show

Burrowing owl

Suddenly, Leoni's eagle eyes have detected a burrowing owl. Almost invisible among the bushes along the road, it sits. It often seeks refuge in the burrow of a ground squirrel – that's where its name comes from. Rattlesnakes might nest there, and when danger is imminent, the owl will produce rattling sounds from its burrow, mimicking a rattlesnake. Cleverly done, as few predators dare to confront a rattlesnake.

Back to the southern right whales. Like all whales, they are mammals, warm-blooded and viviparous. They don't have a dorsal fin but have pectoral fins and, of course, a tail fin. Males can reach lengths of 14 to 16 meters and weigh 60 tons.

Their name may sound strange – right whales, as if there are wrong whales. However, according to whalers, there are wrong whales. Southern right whales swim quite slowly and float after they are killed. Add to that the fact that they have more oil and baleen than other whales, and a whaler will not hesitate – right whales are the right whales to hunt.

 

Southern right whale

Unlike toothed whales like orcas and dolphins, southern right whales belong to the baleen whale group. They have baleen plates hanging from their upper jaw, resembling curtains, with up to 220 on each side. With these, they filter plankton from the seawater, specifically zooplankton – mainly crustaceans.

We let our fingers glide over the keratin plate and the baleen hair on its side

The largest baleen plates can be up to ninety centimetres long. The version that Leoni brought for us is a bit smaller. We let our fingers glide over the keratin plate and the baleen hair on its side.

All these baleen structures require a considerable amount of space in their lower jaw. The head of a southern right whale makes up about one-fourth of its colossal body. These whales will never win beauty contests with those unsightly skin growths on their heads. This unique pattern is present even in the foetus. With some experience, one can identify each individual whale by these callosities. Eventually, a virtual zoo will install itself on these rough patches – whale lice, barnacles, parasitic worms. It's not a sight of beauty.

Despite their appearance, southern right whales are quite gentle creatures. Even when ten males gather around a single female, it won't lead to aggression. On the contrary, they will assist each other in mating. With such colossal creatures, mating is not a straightforward task, Leoni remarks. We try to imagine it.

Females are not monogamous; they mate with whomever they please. Natural selection works at the level of the uterus. For a male, it's crucial to inject as much of his genetic material as possible, surpassing the sperm of other males in quantity. That's where producing sperm on a large scale helps. The fact that the testicles of an adult male together weigh a ton is not a coincidence.

The fact that the testicles of an adult male together weigh a ton is not a coincidence

Birthing and raising their young occur in the sheltered bays of Península Valdés. That is the sole reason why they come here, not for food. For months, females rely solely on their blubber, the thick layer of fat just beneath their skin.

When the baby is born, it's already five meters long. It gains two to four centimetres every day. Females don't have nipples but a slit through which they squirt mother's milk directly into the baby's mouth. Of course, mishaps can happen. If the milk unexpectedly ends up in the water, it forms a white broth, comparable to yogurt. The baby just picks its milk cloud from the water.

Orcas are the only enemies of southern right whales. Not that orcas would attack an adult, but babies are indeed in danger. If they survive that phase unscathed, southern right whales can live up to 70 years. Although recently, a skeleton was found that turned out to be 200 years old.

Meanwhile, we approach the entrance of the Reserva Faunística Península Valdés. All morning, the sun has been making desperate attempts to break through the cloud cover, but it's not succeeding. A light drizzle replaces the expected sunshine.

Recently, the whales have gained an unexpected enemy, Leoni continues, namely the kelp gulls. Especially in the southern bay, Golfo Nuevo, they are present in large numbers. There are so many of them now that they have to look for alternative food.

Boldly, they land on the backs of whales when they surface. With their powerful beaks, they pick through the skin and indulge in the nutritious blubber. Some whales show wounds of up to half a meter. This leads to infections and considerable stress.

With their powerful beaks, they pick through the skin and indulge in the nutritious blubber

But there's more. While the mother is busy avoiding these painful attacks, the young one gets less breastfeeding. The phenomenon was first observed in 1996. Since then, the mortality rate among young whales has increased.

We pause at the Istmo Carlos Ameghino Visitors' Centre. Here, you can admire the skull of an orca, with its impressive teeth, or the skeleton of a baby whale – only eleven meters long.

But it's the toilets that we absolutely must see – not necessarily use, Leoni emphasizes. Because nowhere else in the world will you find toilets with such a view, she adds in lyrical terms. And she's absolutely right.

 

The peculiar shape of Isla de los Pájaros is said to have inspired Antoine de Saint-Exupéry to the famous drawing of a boa constrictor swallowing an elephant

While the expansive view from the observation tower is also not to be missed. In the distance, we see Isla de los Pájaros. The peculiar shape of that island is said to have inspired Antoine de Saint-Exupéry to the famous drawing of a boa constrictor swallowing an elephant – although adults always saw it as a hat. In his tumultuous career, Saint-Exupéry was the director of Aeroposta Argentina for a while.

In the bay, whales come and go, Leoni continues her story, while Jorge takes us deeper into the park through the isthmus. This occurs from June to December. 2017, in particular, has become a record year – in September alone, 788 whales circled here. Now there are only 249 left, including 120 babies.

For a whale mother, there's nothing else to do but wait until her baby is strong enough, for four months. During all that time, she has almost nothing to eat

For a whale mother, there's nothing else to do but wait until her baby is strong enough, for four months. During all that time, she has almost nothing to eat.

With their small lungs, babies can stay underwater for a maximum of twenty minutes. If you want to migrate, that's not enough, because you need to stay underwater for a long time to gain speed. So, a whale mother has no choice but to wait until her baby is strong enough, for four months. During all that time, she has almost nothing to eat.

Once the baby is sufficiently strengthened, the long journey to the cold waters of Antarctica begins, about three thousand kilometres away – an impressive feat of navigation. This is why they are called southern right whales. Once there, they will feed on krill, and the mother will also regain strength.

 

Puerto Pirámides

The flat pancake landscape has come to an end; the road descends to the coastal town of Puerto Pirámides. It was founded only in 1900 when an industrialist came up with the idea of extracting salt from the two salt pans on the peninsula.

That is long past; nowadays, the village, with just over 400 inhabitants, is entirely dedicated to whale watching. This is done on open boats, exposed to sun, rain, and wind. But the sun is not joining us today. So, we dress warmly with a cape and life vest.

 

An ecological harbour without a pier

Disguised as Michelin men, we head towards the beach. Embracing the concept of ecotourism, they avoid the idea of a harbour or even docks here. A few boats, just a handful, are on the beach, ready to depart on trailers. We climb aboard a boat from Tito Bottazzi and let a heavy tractor push us into the water.

 

Southern right whale mother with a calf

Barely eight minutes later, we hit the jackpot. A southern right whale mother with a calf swims close to the boat. They surface repeatedly with curved backs and then disappear again.

 

Southern right whale with skin growths on its head

But what we exactly see is initially hard to make out. The pockmarked callosities on both jaws disrupt the image thoroughly. And the eyes remain underwater, we miss that identifying feature. Only the long, closed slit of the mouth helps us recognize the anatomy. Occasionally, the two blowholes are also visible, from which a fountain of condensed water vapour regularly shoots.

 

Southern right whale with blowholes and skin growths on the jaws

They are not playful. We don't get to see the tail fin, waiting for a breach is in vain. This is not surprising, as they are likely stressed. Occasionally, a kelp gull tries to land on their shiny backs and pecs at their sensitive skin with its sharp beak.

 

Aggressive kelp gull attacks southern right whale

Gradually it starts to rain. No drizzle this time, but thick raindrops of the cold, wet kind.

 

Punta Pirámides – Sea lions

The boat sets course for Punta Pirámides, the pyramid-shaped cliffs from which the coastal village gets its name. At first glance, there doesn't seem to be much happening. Until we catch sight of the silhouettes of sea lions. They lie there, lounging in the way only sea lions can, in a colourful tangle of heads, fins, and bodies.

 

Sea Lions – Dominant male with harem

An imposing male watches over his harem, his massive head held high. His lush mane is reminiscent of a lion, and he likely owes his name to it. A male can weigh up to 350 kg, more than double the weight of the females.

 

Sea lion (m)

Sea lions

Hake, anchovies, squid, and octopuses are their favourite treats, but they may also chase after a pelican, a penguin, or a fur seal. They can move quite easily on land as well. This sets them apart from seals, which struggle on land.

 

Sea lions – Mother with cub

Young sea lion

South American black oystercatcher

Snowy sheathbill

Shortly after twelve, we climb with the bus away from Puerto Pirámides. Now, it's an unpaved road to Punta Delgada. Our main interest there lies in the elephant seals. They are still there, Leoni assures us, even though the breeding season runs from September to November and is therefore past its peak.

 

Punta Delgada

With sea lions, elephant seals have no relationship. With seals, on the other hand, elephant seals share more affinity, as elephant seals can be considered seals in an XXL format. They are colossal creatures, living up to their name. Males can reach lengths of four to six meters and weigh three tons or more. Females, although three to seven times smaller on average, still achieve a respectable weight of 750 kg.

With sea lions, elephant seals have no relationship. With seals, on the other hand, elephant seals share more affinity

Punta Delgada – Sea elephants

They lack ear flaps and hind limbs, having only a tail fin. Their bodies are primarily adapted for life in the water, where they feel most comfortable. If they need to move on land, the only option is to awkwardly shuffle on their front flippers. This is sufficient for essential activities at close range, such as returning to the water, repelling intruders, or pursuing a female. However, extensive movements on land are not something they are adept at.

 

 

Another typical feature of elephant seals is the proboscis, at least in males. However, this shouldn't be imagined as an organ that is several meters long; rather, it's a thick blob on the snout. It serves as a resonating chamber, providing additional decibels when they roar. This is particularly useful during the mating season. With their powerful roars, larger males can intimidate potential rivals in advance, avoiding physical confrontation. However, this strategy doesn't always work, and many males end up with severe scars in the neck region from these skirmishes.

 

Elephant seals – Male with harem

Once the battle is won, the male gathers a harem around him. Some alpha males manage to fertilize up to 50 females in one season. The downside is that he has to stay on the beach all that time to watch over his females – without food, relying on his fat reserves. Because there are constantly competitors lurking.

 

Many males end up with severe scars in the neck region from these skirmishes

The gestation period lasts eleven months. Once born, the pup will gain up to 160 kg in three weeks. But by that time, its mother is already in oestrus again and becomes pregnant in no time. The previous pup has to figure things out on its own. Mature females become pregnant every twelve months.

Once a year, elephant seals shed their fur. This happens in large pieces. Leoni hands around a piece of skin.

Meanwhile, the Salina Grande has appeared by the window. It was here that over a century ago, salt mining gave the region its first boost. The salt lake is 42 meters below sea level. Together with the somewhat smaller Salina Chica, it is the only unevenness in this endless flat landscape.

Almost unnoticed, the landscape around us has changed. No more shrubs are visible, only grass manages to survive in this poor sandy soil. In the distance, the silhouettes of cliffs along the coast appear.

 

Sea elephant (f)

Sea elephant (m) with ‘proboscis’

Even in these times of GPS navigation, these 70-meter-high cliffs are still to be feared. To such an extent that the manual lighthouse of Punta Delgada is operational day and night. At the foot of the lighthouse, De Campo restaurant offers cosy warmth, food, and drinks to chilly visitors. Lamb is their specialty. Two lambs hang on a spit above an open fire, roasting. We savour the Patagonian stew – lamb, carrots, chips.

Then, by bus, we head south along the cliff coast in search of the elephant seals. A grand view from the high cliffs over the coastal waters awaits us there, with seawater foaming high against black rocks. At low tide, some of these rocks are partially exposed.

A steep zigzag path takes us down through the dune sand. Several harems have found their spot on the beach. Usually, there are ten to twelve females, each gathered around one male. In September, there was still an alpha male claiming a hundred or so females, Leoni recalls. Now there are considerably fewer, as once a female becomes pregnant, she leaves the harem.

 

You wouldn't think it looking at those big fellows dozing on the beach. But when they're searching for food, they can dive up to two kilometres deep

You wouldn't think it looking at those big fellows dozing on the beach. But when they're searching for food, they can stay underwater for more than a hundred minutes and dive up to two kilometres deep. Only whales can match that.

Three puppies sit there, staring blankly into space. Their mothers have left them on the beach. Now they have to fend for themselves. Judging by their appearance, they haven't quite come to terms with this unpleasant realization.

 

Sea elephants – Mother with cub

Research indicates that the majority of males never get to mate during their lifetime

In the water off the coast, a solitary male pops up his head. For the time being, he doesn't come ashore. Also, on the beach, a few loners lie around. Leoni calls them marginal males. A quickie at the edge of a harem, when the alpha male isn't paying attention, is all they can hope for. Research indicates that the majority of males never get to mate during their lifetime.

Majestically, a southern giant petrel soars at low altitude. With its powerful beak, it can even tear open the skin of a whale carcass. Also, a few kelp gulls make themselves noticed above the beach with their beautiful yellow beaks with red spots.

 

Kelp gulls

Magellanic oystercatcher on its nest

Closer by, a Magellanic oystercatcher is sitting on its nest, incubating eggs. It is a beautiful bird with a blue-black head, yellow eyes, and a long, orange-red beak – always handy for picking earthworms and larvae from the mud.

 

Magellanic oystercatcher

The nest of the oystercatcher is rather simple – a small depression in the pebble ground without any embellishments, containing three eggs. It seems like it might even abandon its nest. However, it's just an appearance because the oystercatcher’s instinct guides it. Our presence, however discreet, makes it nervous. By tip-toeing away, it hopes to divert our attention from its nest.

 

Merino sheep

The rain is getting stronger now. That makes it somewhat easier for us to turn our backs on this unique place. We climb back to the bus over the windy cliffs. Some merino sheep look on indifferently as we begin the return journey.

 

Merino sheep

A score of rheas are grazing by the road, a few hundred meters away from us. They cannot fly, these distant relatives of the African ostrich. However, they can run quite well, reaching speeds of up to sixty kilometres per hour if needed.

 

Rheas

In fact, this is the smaller version of the rhea, also known as Darwin's rhea. You mostly encounter them in Patagonia. They feed on grass, saltbush, and cactus fruits, although lizards, beetles, and grasshoppers would do well to stay away when rheas are grazing.

It's a bit startling for a trio of guanacos as the bus approaches; one of them jumps over the fence without hesitation. Guanacos, like vicuñas, cannot be tamed. Llamas and alpacas, on the other hand, have been domesticated for over a thousand years.

These camelids have undergone a remarkable evolution. They originated in North America about 45 million years ago. Only two to three million years ago did they arrive in Asia, where we now know them as camels and dromedaries. After the formation of the Isthmus of Panama, they also explored South America. There, we know them as guanacos, vicuñas, llamas, and alpacas. However, in North America, their area of origin, you will search for them in vain nowadays.

In North America, their area of origin, you will search for them in vain nowadays

When it comes to food, guanacos are the biggest competitors of sheep. They eat the same things but three to four times as much. Sheep farmers prefer not to have them around. Moreover, guanacos are legally protected. Shooting them is not allowed, except for a limited number, and only to maintain the species' balance. The meat of the shot animals is given to shepherd dogs, and the farmers consume it. However, selling guanaco meat or hides is strictly prohibited.

Nevertheless, it remains a problem. Something will have to be done to control the population on the Valdes Peninsula eventually. Because guanacos are simply doing too well on the peninsula, muses Leoni, while pulling out her thermos – tea time, Argentine style, has arrived.

Argentinians are hardly familiar with tea, but they are well-acquainted with mate. It has become the national drink, a bitter infusion made from yerba mate. This herb is cultivated in the northern province of Misiones, where the climate is similar to that of Paraguay, where the concoction originates. Entire plantations are filled with it.

First, the leaves are dried and finely chopped. Then they go into a small cup until it is three-quarters full. You pour hot water from your thermos over it. Hot water, Leoni emphasizes, not boiling water, as that would make the mate very bitter.

Mate is not drunk; it is sucked up with a bombilla. This is a metal straw with a built-in filter that keeps leaves and twigs out.

In between, you solve all the world's problems. Because drinking mate is primarily a social event

You don't drink mate alone; you drink it in company. You take a sip, add hot water, and pass the cup to your neighbour. And in between, you solve all the world's problems. Because drinking mate is primarily a social event.

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Thursday, November 2 | Puerto Madryn – Ushuaia

In front of the hotel, the palm trees stand still on this calm morning. Slowly, the sun rises above the almost ripple-free ocean. Generously, it scatters its rays over the sparkling waters. In the distance, the silhouettes of two ships gradually fade in the last morning mists. Quite close to the coast, a southern right whale female patiently circles with her calf, awaiting the great migration. Their smooth, curved backs gleam in the water.

 

Puerto Madryn – Golfo Nuevo – Southern right whale

A beautiful, sunny day under an open, blue sky is on the way, there's no doubt about it. So, it's high time for us to head to colder regions. Specifically, to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in Argentina.

 

Puerto Madryn – Golfo Nuevo

You wouldn't immediately expect a complex geological history from an endless plain like Patagonia. However, that is indeed the case, explains Leoni as we climb away from marine sediment layers from Puerto Madryn.

The fact that Patagonia was once separated from Antarctica and later became attached to the rest of South America seems well-established

The Patagonian landmass is geologically quite different from the rest of South America. The fault line between them is situated slightly south of Río Colorado. While it seems well-established that Patagonia was once separated from Antarctica and later attached to the rest of South America, the exact process is not yet clear to geologists. What is known is that around 25 million years ago, the separation from Antarctica became definitive.

 

Patagonia has been inundated by oceans three times in more recent history, according to Leoni. Once by the waters of what we now call the Pacific Ocean, and twice by the Atlantic Ocean. The most recent occurrence took place 7 to 10 million years ago. It was a shallow, warm sea where turtles, sharks, snails, and shellfish thrived. Leoni nostalgically draws a connection to her recent vacation in Thailand, where she herself for the first time saw the animals that are here only known as fossil remains in the tropical waters.

 

Small shrines of Gauchito Gil

Meanwhile, Jorge is taking us to the airport in Trelew, about sixty kilometres south of Puerto Madryn. Barely joining RN 3, an amalgamation of red chapels appears next to the road. Inside, they are filled with votive offerings, placed there in gratitude for healing or answered prayers.

A poor gaucho became a folk saint at the end of the 19th century, much to the displeasure of the established church

These shrines dedicated to Gauchito Gil can be found all along busy roads in Argentina, Leoni explains. Gauchito Gil, a poor gaucho, became a folk saint at the end of the 19th century, much to the displeasure of the established church.

His career began quite inconspicuously as a gaucho on an estancia. However, he got into trouble by fluttering too closely around the skirts of the lady of the house. He managed to escape in the nick of time and sought refuge in the Argentine army. However, that didn't suit him in the end, and once again, he slipped away.

His new passion became robbing the rich and helping and protecting the poor. Gradually, he built up a Robin Hood-like reputation. Miraculous healing powers were even attributed to him.

Desertion was something the Argentine government couldn't tolerate. On January 8, 1878, they caught the wild benefactor, hung him upside down in a tree, and brutally cut his throat. The blood that flowed abundantly then would become the inspiration for the red colour of the chapels.

 

Small shrines of Gauchito Gil

But the people continued to venerate Gauchito Gil. His grave remains a popular pilgrimage site. Every year, on January 8, more than a hundred thousand believers gather. Small shrines emerged along important highways throughout the country. Truckers honk their horns as they pass one of these chapels, ensuring themselves a safe journey.

Without honking the horn, Jorge continues the journey through the flat landscape. A landscape that happens to be one of the world's most important fossil sites of dinosaurs.

Seven scientific expeditions later, it was confirmed that they had found six skeletons of the largest dinosaur ever

Not long ago, in 2008, a man named Aurelio Hernández stumbled upon a dinosaur bone by chance. This occurred near La Flecha, about 250 km west of Trelew. He promptly called a group of palaeontologists because he was savvy enough to recognize the significance of his discovery. Seven scientific expeditions later, it was confirmed that they had found six skeletons of the largest dinosaur ever – 37 m long, 18 m tall, weighing 70 tons.

 

Trelew – Patagotitan Mayorum

Only in 2017 did the colossus receive its name – Patagotitan Mayorum. This refers to Patagonia and the titanic dimensions of the creature but also to the discovery site on the estate of the Mayo family. The giant must have lived 101 million years ago and is classified as a sauropod, the herbivorous dinosaurs with long necks. In terms of size, it stands in relation to the well-known Tyrannosaurus rex like an elephant to a lion – many times larger.

In terms of size, Patagotitan Mayorum stands in relation to the well-known Tyrannosaurus rex like an elephant to a lion – many times larger

A life-sized replica by the roadside aims to emphasize all of this. It's nearly impossible to look at it beside it. The Patagotitan Mayorum must have been an immense creature. An adult can effortlessly stand under its belly without touching it. Not to mention its endless neck.

At the airport, we bid farewell to the calm Jorge and the ever-enthusiastic Leoni. Shortly after, the Aerolíneas Argentinas Boeing 737 takes off, heading for the deep south.

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Jaak Palmans
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