A life-giving pillar

Georgia | Anno 2017

 

Wednesday, July 26 | Tbilisi

Thursday, July 27 | Tbilisi – Jvari – Mtsketa – Shiomgvime

 

 

Wednesday, July 26 | Tbilisi

A day of strolling through Tbilisi is what we have ahead of us today. The weather is on our side, with the sun generously casting its rays over the capital.

Driver Jimmy drops us off in front of the statue of Shota Rustaveli, the great 12th-century poet. Across the street stretches the Rose Revolution Square. During the Soviet era, there was a series of large stone arches here – mockingly referred to as Andropov's ears. Yuri Andropov was General Secretary of the Communist Party of the USSR for just fifteen months, making him a transitional figure. And yes, he did have rather large ears.

From Rustaveli Avenue, we make our way down to Freedom Square. Back when the Soviets were still in charge, this was Lenin Square, dominated by an imposing statue of Lenin.

 

Tbilisi – Narikala Castle

In August 1991, the Georgians swiftly put an end to that. The statue was toppled, and the square was renamed Freedom Square. In 2006, an imposing pillar rose here, crowned by a gilded statue of Saint George slaying the dragon. An intriguing thought flashes through our minds: could the artist have resisted the temptation to give the fallen dragon Lenin’s features?

On the wide sidewalk, it's pleasant to stroll. Small fountains spray the well-maintained flower beds, and people casually walk under the tall, shady trees, while cars speed by at a safe distance on the wide asphalt road.

 

The Biltmore Tbilisi Hotel

National Opera and Ballet Theatre

National flag of Georgia

It is the Russians who have given the city a more European character, our guide Rati admits openly. An example of this is the National Opera and Ballet Theatre. It was once the residence of Zacharia Paliashvili, the founder of Georgian classical music. Today, it remains an important centre of cultural life.

 

Shota Rustaveli Avenue – Rustaveli Theatre

Another historical spot is a little café on the corner of the street. This is where Rati's father proposed to his mother. We want to know if she said yes. Not right away, Rati grins.

Above our heads, a Georgian flag flutters – a red cross on a white background, with a smaller red cross in each of the four quadrants. The large cross represents Jesus Christ, while the four smaller crosses refer to the apostles who wrote the four Gospels. Separation of church and state isn’t really something they care about here.

Here and there, we spot small metal figurines on the sidewalk, created by local artists. They somewhat resemble the Wrocław Dwarfs.

The Marriott Hotel might not be worth mentioning, if it weren't for the fact that this building was completely destroyed by fire during the bloody civil war at the turn of 1991-1992. As a young boy, Rati remembers seeing the blackened walls still standing. It wasn’t until 2002 that the current building was constructed.

Painful memories, that's what this city seems to be full of. A plaque on a wall commemorates the massacre of March 9, 1956. Dozens were killed when the Russian Red Army opened fire on peaceful demonstrators in the streets of Tbilisi. Round holes in the plaque refer to the bullet salvos that were fired during the event.

 

Parliament Building

Where a copy of the Hagia Sophia once stood, the Russians erected the Parliament Building. Initially, it was a pseudo-parliament, as the Soviets were in control of Georgia. This became all too clear when, in the early morning of April 9, 1989, the Red Army violently broke up a hunger strike, resulting in 19 deaths. A monument still reminds us of this event.

Nowadays, it has once again become a sort of pseudo-parliament, as since 2012, the members of parliament have held their sessions in the brand-new Parliament Building in distant Kutaisi. Yet, the flags of Georgia and the European Union still wave side by side here, as a symbol of solidarity.

Painful memories, that's what this city seems to be full of

Shota Rustaveli Avenue

Saxophonist

Memorial plaque massacre (1956)

The National Youth Palace, on the other hand, Rati has fond memories of. Free after-school programs are offered there, covering a wide range of subjects such as literature, chess, basketball, and more. It was none other than Beria, the feared head of the secret services, who gave the go-ahead for this initiative in 1938, turning the palace into the House of Pioneers. Rati nostalgically recalls the many hours he spent in the labyrinth of this building.

Across the street, the National Museum of Georgia awaits us. Archaeological Treasure is the name of the special exhibition housed in the basement. Marina will guide us for an hour among masterpieces created by ancient goldsmiths. She speaks in a whisper, not wanting to disturb the other visitors. She hardly seems to want to disturb us either, as sometimes we can barely hear her. But the art treasures she shows us are simply breathtaking.

Obtaining the Golden Fleece was the task King Pelias gave to Jason in Greek mythology. It was a life-threatening mission, as the precious item was located in a sacred forest in faraway Colchis. Anyone who entered the forest inevitably had to face a dragon that never slept.

Crossing the Black Sea on the way to Colchis was, for the Greeks, akin to a journey to the end of the known world. Dangers lurked everywhere along the way. A group of the bravest Greeks, the Argonauts, accompanied Jason on his quest – a bit like the Magnificent Seven, but with fifty heroes.

The idea that something like a Golden Fleece might exist wasn’t far-fetched at all

National Museum of Georgia – Archaeological Treasure

Necklace – Gold and semi-precious stone

Nowadays, we know that Colchis refers to the western part of Georgia. So, the myth of the Argonauts is essentially a bit of free Greek propaganda for tourism in Georgia, Marina adds with a smirk.

The idea that something like a Golden Fleece might exist wasn’t far-fetched at all. Many mountain rivers in the Caucasus carry tiny gold particles that are barely visible to the naked eye. To capture these, the local population would lay sheep skins in the flowing water. The gold would easily adhere to the oily wool, making it sparkle like gold.

For more than five thousand years, local goldsmithing has been at an exceptionally high level

 

Whatever the case may be, gold was plentiful in Colchis. The local goldsmithing thrived because of it. For over five thousand years, it has been at an exceptionally high level. And that is exactly why we are here – we're constantly amazed, one discovery after another.

An ornate golden lion is several hundred years older than the pyramids of Giza

Golden Lion (29th century BCE)

The fabulous pieces are beautifully displayed in the glass cases. The mastery of the goldsmiths is evident as early as the third millennium BCE. We see pins and necklaces, but also an elegant little golden lion, dating from the 29th century BCE – several hundred years older than the pyramids of Giza. There's also a gold necklace with a crescent-shaped pendant adorned with semi-precious stones – more than 3 500 years old.

The Vani burial mounds in particular proved to contain an unsurpassable wealth of grave goods

Golden headdress

In particular the burial mounds of Vani, located about 40 km southwest of Kutaisi, proved to be an unsurpassed treasure trove of grave goods. Over 1 500 gold items were found there – bracelets, necklaces, earrings, diadems, rings. Two of the bracelets are adorned with ram's heads. Each one, as Marina tells us, weighs more than half a kilogram.

Each shell is intricately decorated with a refined pattern, each containing 365 tiny golden beads

Necklace with golden turtles with granulation

Absolutely stunning is a necklace featuring around thirty small golden turtles. Each shell is intricately decorated with a refined pattern, each containing 365 tiny golden beads. This technique is called granulation, which originated in Syria. We had no idea gold could be so breathtaking. We should have known better.

 

Necklace with cylinder box

In the Soviet Occupation Hall on the fourth floor of the museum, they don’t mince words – between 1921 and 1991, the Soviet Union acted as a ruthless occupier in this country. The unvarnished counterpart to the Stalin Museum is this, as Rati pointed out to us in Gori.

One doesn’t feel cheerful here, confronted with the bullet holes in the wooden train car where resistance fighters were executed, the photographs of repression, the statistics on deportations and executions, and the many personal tragedies.

Between 1921 and 1991, the Soviet Union acted as a ruthless occupier in this country

But the scope of the exhibition goes beyond 1991. Abkhazia and South Ossetia are not overlooked, nor is the five-day war of 2008. Film footage shows us how Russian tanks emerged from the Roki Tunnel on August 8.

That day, sixteen-year-old Rati happened to be in western Georgia with his mother while his father was working in Tbilisi. They weren’t able to return to the capital until September.

Meanwhile, the day has progressed quite a bit. Bus driver Jimmy drops us off at Meidan Square for lunch. This is the heart of Tbilisi. Across the Mktvari River, the Metekhi Church impressively stands on a steep cliff above the water. Above us, the cabins of the cable car silently glide toward Narikala Castle, which we can just make out above the rooftops.

The name of this city is derived from the word tbili, meaning warm. This has nothing to do with the thermometer currently reading 35 °C (95 °F), but rather with the presence of sulphur-rich hot springs.

According to legend, it was King Vachtang I Gorgasali who founded Tbilisi around 485. Vachtang was hunting in this wooded area when his falcon caught a pheasant, but it struggled so much that both birds ended up in the hot springs. Vachtang was so delighted by the discovery of the hot springs that he had the forest cleared and established a city there.

 

Tbilisi – Metechi Church on the Mktvari with equestrian statue of King Vachtang I Gorgasali

The Metekhi Church across the river was also originally founded by Vachtang. That’s why a statue of him on horseback looks out over the old city from the cliff in front of the church.

Foreign rulers have regularly invaded the city throughout the ages – Arabs, Mongols, Persians, Turks. Often, the Metekhi Church had to bear the brunt of these invasions. Sensitive as ever, the Russians even turned it into a prison. Time and again, the Georgians set to work restoring their beloved church.

 

‘King’ Tamar

King Vachtang I Gorgasali

In 1280, it was the young King Demetrius II who took on the task of rebuilding the church after the Mongols had destroyed the previous version in 1235. Rati pauses to reflect on this monarch, calling him one of the greatest kings of Georgia. This is because one of the Mongol khans, Arghun Khan, had come to suspect Demetrius of being involved in a conspiracy. After executing all the conspirators, he summoned Demetrius to his court, threatening to invade Georgia again if he did not comply.

Mongols once again invading Georgia, Demetrius could imagine what that would entail. So, against all advice, the thirty-year-old king travelled to the Mongol court in the hopes of sparing his people. In that regard, he succeeded, but he himself was not spared. On March 12, 1289, he was beheaded.

Against all advice, the thirty-year-old king travelled to the Mongol court in the hope of sparing his people

Mktvari, Metekhi Church

This Orthodox Metekhi Church is somewhat unorthodox. Some architectural elements are not typical of the 13th century. For example, the bas-relief crosses above some of the windows suggest that Demetrius was inspired by an earlier church. Inside, we find, among other things, an icon of Saint Vitus. Quite strangely, the inscription is in Dutch. Why that is, no one knows.

 

Tbilisi – Mktvari

Whether one has a fear of heights or not, we now take the cable car to Narikala Castle, which rises about a hundred meters above the city. It's a relatively new cable car, having been put into operation in 2012. This was nearly a quarter of a century after the cable of the previous one failed, resulting in twenty deaths.

 

Peace Bridge, Rhike Park

Completely reassured by this information, we float high above the river and enjoy the expansive view – the cliffs of the Mktvari, the enormous Trinity Cathedral with its golden dome, the white presidential palace with its blue dome, the elegant Peace Bridge, and the two… rabbit holes. Rati can’t come up with a better name for the giant metal structures that lie like toppled cones in the green Rike Park. No one knows what they’re for or what to do with them, he scoffs. Many criticize this modernist project by Saakashvili as a blemish on the old city. Yet, the architectural qualities of this combination of music theatre and exhibition hall are internationally praised.

 

Bridge of Peace, Rike Park, 'rabbit holes' and presidential palace

In the 4th century, a Persian citadel already stood on this hill. The Narikala Castle dominates the wide surroundings. On one side lies the bustling city at our feet, with the mosque and the famous baths in the foreground. On the other side is the lush greenery of the botanical garden. As soon as we lean over the railing, the chirping of crickets rises up to greet us from the depths.

The name of the fortress likely refers to the fact that it was built with stones from the riverbank. It had at least two secret exits, one leading to Mktvari and one to the garden at the back.

The Narikala Castle dominates the wide surroundings

Narikala Castle, botanical garden

Narikala Castle

Legvtachevi Waterfall

In 1827, a large part of the castle collapsed. This was not due to an invasion or an earthquake, but rather to the negligence of the Russians. The ammunition they had stored here accidentally exploded.

Only twenty years ago was the restoration of the small St. Nicholas Church completed. However, it is still not a gem. The frescoes have been restored but hardly captivate us.

We descend towards the city along the steep Botanikuri Street. This is the oldest district of the city; it was here that King Vachtang discovered the hot springs. A small monument with a falcon and a pheasant reminds us of this.

More than just a place to attend to personal hygiene, this is a place where you work on your social relationships

Metekhi Church, bath houses

Nowadays, bathhouses have been built around the hot springs. Rati refers to them as a kind of Turkish hammams. More than just a place to attend to personal hygiene, this is a place where you work on your social relationships. Often, people come here primarily to meet others. For example, mothers like to meet their future daughters-in-law here to, well, check their physical condition more thoroughly.

What Manneken Pis is to Brussels, the waterfall of Legvtachevi is to Tbilisi – it’s nothing special, but everyone wants to see it. So we stroll into the fig gorge, following Rati. At the end of this gorge – indeed – water cascades down in a waterfall.

The Jumah Mosque can certainly be called unique – Sunnis and Shiites practice their faith side by side here

Jumah Mosque

The Jumah Mosque can certainly be called unique, for more than one reason. In the 1930s, it managed to survive Beria's purges. No other mosque in Tbilisi has achieved that since. They have turned that necessity into a virtue, which makes it even more unique – Sunnis and Shiites practice their faith side by side here, without splitting each other's skulls.

Whether visitors are allowed is initially unclear, but Rati's request is met with a warm gesture. We are welcome – as long as we take off our shoes.

The carpeting stretches wall-to-wall, without conforming to theological barriers

Sunni prayer hall (left) and Shiite prayer hall (right)

A simple, square hall serves as the prayer space. It is divided into two equal parts by a modest arcade, with the left side for Sunnis and the right side for Shiites. On both sides, an identical mihrab indicates the direction of Mecca. There are also two minbars or pulpits – a simple step-up for the Shiites and a beautifully decorated turret with a small entrance for the Sunnis. The carpeting stretches wall-to-wall, without conforming to theological barriers.

 

Old Quran

Prayer stones (Shiite)

A small container with a supply of flat stones on the Shiite side is the only distinction. During prayer, Shiites typically place such a stone on the ground in front of them and touch it with their forehead as they bow.

In a display case lies a huge opened Quran. Rati claims that this book is three hundred years old. Not at all, says a friendly old man who calls himself a sheikh. This copy was made in 1905 in St. Petersburg and later found in a madrasa.

What is remarkable is the Kufic script used in this Quran. It is a calligraphic version of Arabic, but without the dots above the letters that are common today. This makes reading it no easier, leading to differing interpretations.

We descend further into the city and pass the Cathedral of St. George, one of the two Armenian Apostolic churches still active in Tbilisi. This is where Sayat-Nova is buried, the composer and singing bard whom our Armenian guide Sira was so enthusiastic about.

In the narrow but popular Jan Shardeni Street the sidewalk cafés are squeezed up against each other, sometimes almost blocking the passage. If you’re not careful, you might trip and fall into a comfortable seat, and before you know it, a fresh pint is placed in front of you. That won’t happen to us, at least not at a sidewalk café with the logo of the Dutch beer Heineken.

But when Jazz Café Aroma comes out with the logos of the Belgian beers Leffe and Hoegaarden, we cannot resist. Especially after a whole day of trailing an tireless Rati through a blisteringly hot city. Immediately, we can turn the tables and explain about Belgian abbeys and their activities while Rati sips cautiously on his blonde Leffe. That surely tastes like more, is his verdict. It’s clear we’re sitting with a connoisseur at the table.

 

Sophiko Chiaureli

Tamada

The northern end of this street is marked by Tamada, the cheerful toastmaster. The sleek statue of the seated man with a drinking horn at the ready is modeled after an ancient Colchian figure. Yet it still has a disarming quality.

Georgia has never known pogroms, Rati points out as we walk through a small park toward the Great Synagogue. There have never been tensions between Jews and Georgians. It was wealthy Jews from the tolerant Akhaltsikhe – the city where we stayed last Saturday – who took responsibility for the construction of this synagogue.

In front of the building, we recognize a stylized representation of a menorah, the nine-branched candelabrum. During the Hanukkah festival, one additional candle is lit on the candelabrum each night for eight nights, using the ninth candle.

Wealthy Jews from the tolerant Akhaltsikhe took responsibility for the construction of the Great Synagogue

Great Synagogue

With a kippah on the head – at least for the men – we explore the prayer room. In the centre is the bimah, a small platform with a railing around it, where the rabbi reads texts and performs ritual acts. At the back, against the southern wall – more or less in the direction of Jerusalem – is the Holy Ark. Behind a black velvet curtain with gold embroidery, the Torah is kept there.

There are two floors, for when it gets busy – once again, exclusively for men. Because women must make do with a fairly small, wooden chamber at the back left of the prayer room.

 

Sioni Cathedral of the Dormition

Veneration of the iconic cross of Saint Nino

For centuries, the Sioni Cathedral of the Dormition was the most important cathedral in Georgia. The Catholicos-Patriarch of the Georgian Orthodox Church had his seat there. This only came to an end in 2004, when the imposing Holy Trinity Cathedral was consecrated on the other side of the river.

 

Sioni Cathedral of the Dormition

It is easy to guess that such an important structure was very popular among foreign rulers when it came to being destroyed. Arabs, Mongols, Timurids, Persians – all of them made efforts to do so. And each time, the Georgians would set to work with renewed determination to restore their cathedral.

 

Lighting candles

Iconostasis

By far the hardest blow came from Jalal ad-Din of Khwarazm, in present-day Uzbekistan. Fleeing from the Mongols, this obscure nobleman managed to destroy Tbilisi with fire and sword. As if that wasn't enough, he ordered the murder of anyone who refused to renounce Christianity. He took his place atop the tower of the cathedral, Rati rants, to enjoy the massacre on the Metekhi Bridge. Since then, that bridge has been called the Bridge of the Hundred Thousand Holy Georgian Martyrs.

 

Frescoes in the apse

There is no sign of that macabre history inside. Everything looks fairly recent, and the frescoes are quite nice. But the main attraction is the bronze grille to the left of the stone iconostasis. Behind it, the iconic cross of Saint Nino is kept. A copy, of course – the original is safely stored elsewhere. Whispering prayers, believers let their hands glide over the grille.

 

Fresco of the Mother of God with the child Jesus

KGB still watching you. We can't believe our eyes, but Rati nods in confirmation – that really is the name of this little café. They've turned it into a cynical gimmick, using relics from the Soviet era to evoke the good old days of communism.

 

KGB still watching you

We briefly explore the Bridge of Peace, the contemporary pedestrian bridge that has connected the old town with the new district since 2010. It's an elegant structure of glass and steel, built in Italy and transported to Tbilisi on two hundred trucks. Around us, the magnificent skyline of Tbilisi unfolds.

 

The Bridge of Peace is built in Italy and transported to Tbilisi on two hundred trucks

A little further on, we pass the seat of the Patriarchate of Georgia. One of the nails with which Jesus was crucified is said to be kept here.

As soon as you look at the weathered façade of the Anchiskhati Basilica, you know right away – this must be a very old church. Rati confirms. Originally, it dates back to the 6th century, and since then, the church has been destroyed and restored many times. That, by the way, seems to be the hallmark of literally every church in this city.

 

Anchiskhati Basilica

Ancha Icon

Nothing new under the sun, then? Actually, there is. Initially, this church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It wasn’t until 1675 that it got its current name. It’s a complicated story, as mythology, hagiography, and history constantly intertwine.

It all seems to have begun with a cloth in Edessa, which is now Şanlıurfa in Turkey. When King Abgar of Edessa fell ill, he wrote a letter to his contemporary, Jesus, asking to be healed. Jesus wasn’t keen on making the long journey and sent Thaddeus in his place. When Thaddeus arrived, he carried a cloth with the image of Jesus’ face on it. And it worked. Abgar only needed to look at the image to be healed – and, naturally, to convert to Christianity.

Thus a truly unique icon was created, because it was not made by human hands

Somewhere in the 6th or 7th century, an artist got the idea to paint an icon based on that face. But he couldn’t manage it, as the image radiated too much light. So, he pressed the wooden panel against the cloth, and behold – Jesus’ face was imprinted on it, like a divine silkscreen. Thus a truly unique icon was created, because it was not made by human hands.

 

Iconostasis

And we shouldn't be too dismissive about it, Rati adds. Maybe this isn't just a metaphorical story, he explains, maybe the divine image really did generate so much radiation.

After many wanderings, the icon ended up in the monastery of Anchiskhati. From there, it was transferred to this basilica in 1666 – Anchiskhati means icon of Anchis. Nowadays, it is, of course, the main attraction of the basilica, even though it’s just a copy. In the 1920s, the Russians hung the original in the Museum of Fine Arts.

 

Gabriadze Puppet Theatre

Angel with hammer

We arrive just in time at the Gabriadze Puppet Theatre. The focus here is on the bell tower, a quirky mishmash of styles and materials. It’s packed with people, as at seven o’clock, an angel emerges from a small door to strike a bell seven times with his hammer.

We see a couple racing through life in four stages – falling in love, marrying, having their first child, and becoming an elderly couple

Marriage

First child

That time passes unrelentingly, that's what they want to impress upon us here. As soon as the angel finishes, a little carousel begins to turn below. We see a couple racing through life in four stages – falling in love, marrying, having their first child, and becoming an elderly couple. In the blink of an eye, that long life is over. So it's best to take to heart the ironic motto spelled out in golden letters on the tower: Extra cepam nihil cogito nos lacrimare – Apart from onions, I think nothing can make us cry.

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Thursday, July 27 | Tbilisi – Jvari – Mtsketa – Shiomgvime

This is our last day, and also our holiest. Because today, it’s all about religion, Rati summarizes our itinerary. Except for lunch, he adds with a grin.

After seventy years of communist rule, people had simply forgotten how to build a large church

That doesn't stop him from being completely captivated by the news of the day. Saakashvili, the former president of Georgia, is stateless. While he was in the United States, his Ukrainian citizenship was revoked. Apparently, Poroshenko, the president of Ukraine, had grown tired of his ongoing corruption allegations. Since the Georgians had already stripped him of his Georgian citizenship, Saakashvili is now stateless. How things will proceed for Saakashvili without a passport is a mystery to Rati.

It took quite some time, but in 2004, the job was finally completed. The Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi could be consecrated. Rati believes the long delay – plans had been in place since 1989 – had a very mundane explanation. After seventy years of communist rule, people had simply forgotten how to build a large church, gather funds, hold an architectural competition, and so on. They even managed to hold the competition without specifying where the church should be built or how it should look. The civil war of 1991-1992 also threw a wrench in the works.

 

Tsminda Sameba is the third largest cathedral in the world. Wherever you are in Tbilisi, you simply cannot miss it

Tbilisi – Tsminda Sameba

It has become an impressive building, Tsminda Sameba, the third largest cathedral in the world. No matter where you stand in Tbilisi, you simply cannot miss the gigantic stone structure on Elia Hill – both during the day and at night.

 

Tsminda Sameba – Iconostasis

The foundations are set 14 meters deep into the hill, and the dome rises 86 meters above the ground level. They used bricks, concrete, tuff stone, and granite, as well as marble from Italy and Rajasthan. Outside, the flag of Georgia waves alongside a flag featuring the cross of Saint Nino.

 

Tsminda Sameba – Worship service

A worship service is currently taking place inside. The doors of the iconostasis are open, allowing us to catch a glimpse of the choir. There don’t seem to be any worshippers, just tourists – almost exclusively Georgian tourists; a busload has just arrived.

 

Twelve Kings of Georgia

The wide church has five naves. However, the vertical dimension overwhelmingly dominates the horizontal one. For now, the walls and the dome are still pristine white, but they are already painting the vault of the main apse. They need a scaffold thirteen stories high for that.

 

Besides the gigantic main church, this building houses no less than four underground churches

But that's not all. Besides the gigantic main church, this building houses no less than four underground churches. Additionally, there are about a dozen churches spread across the grounds outside.

Rati leads us to one of these underground churches. A faint smell of smoke greets us in the stairwell. Despite how recent this building may be, it seems to have already survived its first fire.

It's a fully-fledged church space we find in the basement, complete with three spacious naves, a vaulted choir and a stone iconostasis. Even an imitation dome has been added to the ceiling. The only thing missing is some sunlight coming through the windows.

 

 

It's a half-hour drive along the E60 to the monastery of Jvari, perched on a bare hilltop. A light breeze is blowing, but the view is unparalleled. At our feet lies Mtskheta. There, at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, it all began. It was here that Saint Nino converted Queen Nana in 326, and then King Mirian. Thousands of believers have been baptized in the Aragvi. Mtskheta still holds a mythical significance for Georgians as the cradle of their religion.

 

At our feet lies Mtskheta. There, at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, it all began

At that time, three stars appeared in the sky to highlight the joyous event of the conversion. The third star stopped directly above the place where we now stand – a clear signal. King Mirian immediately had a wooden cross erected here. Shortly thereafter, a wooden church followed. In the 6th century, this was replaced by a stone church.

 

Jvari Monastery, Georgia's holiest site

Since then, this little monastery of Jvari has become the holiest place in Georgia, with the strictest dress code for visitors. There are plenty of visitors, almost exclusively Georgians, but they behave more like tourists than pilgrims. It is a beautiful church, featuring lovely bas-reliefs above the windows, which even show Hellenistic and Persian influences.

If you were to view the building from above, you would recognize the shape of a four-leaf clover. They call it a tetraconch, a building with four equal apses arranged in a cross shape. However, it’s a bit more complex, as small corner rooms have been built between the apses, accessible only from the central space.

 

Interior of the Tetraconch

Cross of Saint Nino

In the centre of that space stands a large wooden cross. Here and there, an icon hangs against the bare, ancient stone walls. Among them, we recognize an image of Saint George on horseback. However, instead of a dragon, he is piercing the Roman Emperor Diocletianus with his lance. Diocletian's bloody persecution of Christians in 303 was still fresh in memory when this church was built.

 

Saint Nino

Saint George kills the Roman Emperor Diocletian with his lance

We descend to Mtskheta, down in the valley, where many Jews have always lived. Coincidentally, one of them, Elioz, was in Jerusalem when Jesus was crucified. Somehow, he came into possession of Jesus’ cloak – perhaps purchased from one of the Roman soldiers who, according to the Gospel of Matthew, had cast lots for it on Golgotha.

Delighted, she put the cloak on, and died on the spot, caught in an ecstatic mix of emotion and piety

Back home, the proud Elioz showed the cloak to his sister Sidonia. Delighted, she put it on, and died on the spot, caught in an ecstatic mix of emotion and piety. It was no longer possible to undress the body, so there was no other option than to bury the cloak together with Sidonia. Over time, no one knew where her grave was located anymore.

 

Jvari Monastery

An angel points to the place where Sidonia is buried

Three centuries later, King Mirian devised a plan to erect a wooden church in the valley to honour his conversion to Christianity. The church would be supported by a central wooden pillar. However, they could not manage to raise the pillar. In desperation, Saint Nino began to pray, staying up all night. And behold, the next day, the pillar miraculously moved on its own to the spot where Sidonia was buried. According to legend, an angel had a hand in this. Since then, various miraculous healings have been attributed to that pillar.

A church of that size was unheard of in 1030

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

Already in the 5th century, King Vakhtang replaced the wooden structure with a stone version. However, it wasn't until the beginning of the Golden Age, around 1030, that the current cathedral was built. It was an enormous church, unprecedented for its time. It was named Svetitskhoveli, which means Life-Giving Pillar. Together with the Jvari Monastery, it has been part of the World Heritage Site since 1994.

The architect of this masterpiece was a certain Arsakidze. To create such a work of art, you must have a significant amount of experience, Rati rightly points out. Yet, no one has been able to connect this architect with any other church.

 

Monumental interior of the church

Place where Sidonia is said to be buried

On the other hand, the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral sparked quite a bit of jealousy, particularly from Arsakidze's master. The king even had the unfortunate architect's right arm cut off. This incident is said to explain a mysterious sculpture high on the northern façade – a forearm with a hand clasping a try square.

Around the complex, King Erekle II had a wall built, likely on the foundations of an older wall.

 

Central iconostasis

Inside, Rati shows us a modest remnant of the fifth-century church. Even the decorations on the wall are still visible. The medieval frescoes have fared less well. The Russians removed most of them around 1830 in anticipation of a planned visit by the Tsar – which, by the way, never happened.

 

Fragment of the central iconostasis

A square tower adorned with weathered frescoes marks the spot where Sidonia is believed to be buried. The fact that the cloak of Jesus is also said to be located there makes the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral the second most important church in the world. Only the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem surpasses it in terms of proximity to Jesus. At least, this was the belief among Georgians around 1400. To strengthen this claim, they had a scaled-down, symbolic replica of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre constructed against the side wall.

 

Wooden iconostasis of side chapel

A few stylish tombstones remind us that many princes are buried here. Among them is the grave of King Erekle II, where a shield and a sword evoke memories of his many military campaigns. The grave of his son, George XII, the last king of Georgia, is very simple. Shortly after his death in 1800, tsarist Russia annexed the weakened Georgia with a single stroke of the pen. In contrast, the white-grey gravestone of King Vakhtang, the builder of the first stone church in Mtskheta, appears surprisingly modern.

 

Prayers for the Mother of God with the child Jesus

The object venerated in a side chapel suspiciously resembles a prosthetic foot. And indeed, that is what it is. However, it's the contents that matter. Inside it is yet another precious relic – a toe bone of Saint Andrew the First-Called.

We walk to the Samtavro Monastery, the place where Saint Nino stayed before she permanently moved to the Bodbe Monastery. There is still a convent here, with nuns in black habits busily working to keep the Church of the Transfiguration clean.

 

Samtavro Monastery

Church of the Transfiguration

What the Transfiguration of Jesus exactly entails momentarily escapes us, but Rati has the answer. It refers to His transformation on Mount Tabor, where He briefly revealed His divine nature to the apostles Peter, James, and John in the company of Moses and Elijah.

On a stone, this scene is vividly depicted, in case the concept isn't yet clear to us. Interestingly, it is a painting not on wood or canvas but on natural stone. This is no ordinary piece of stone – this stone originates from Mount Tabor.

The church, in its current form, dates back to the golden 11th century. At first glance, it appears to be a simple basilica, nothing more than a rectangular hall. However, this is an optical illusion. If you look up, you immediately recognize the traditional cross shape of the vaulted ceiling with the central dome.

 

Sarcophagi of King Mirian and Queen Nana

 

In one of the chapels are the stone sarcophagi of King Mirian and Queen Nana. Rati calls them the tombs of the first Christian royal family. Their portraits are depicted in life-size mosaics set against a golden background. However, they can hardly count on any interest from visitors.

The scene is quite different at the sarcophagus of a certain Gabriel Urgebadze. Nearly every visitor stops by to tenderly stroke the glass casket. This pious monk is indeed very beloved. His public life began in 1965 when he set fire to a banner featuring Lenin's portrait on International Labour Day. This act made him wildly popular among the people, although not with the government, which concluded that he was suffering from a psychosis. As a result, he spent seven months in a psychiatric institution, which they deemed the most appropriate remedy.

Even the oil dripping from the lamp above his tomb is attributed miraculous qualities, and no drop of it goes to waste

Representation of the Transfiguration on a stone from Mount Tabor

Lamp above the tomb of the pious monk Gabriel

After his death in 1995, Gabriel was buried in the cemetery of Samtavro. However, even from his grave, he continued to perform miracles. In 2012, he was canonized, and in February 2014, he was given his own sarcophagus in the Transfiguration Church. Even the oil dripping from the lamp above his tomb is attributed miraculous qualities, and no drop of it goes to waste.

 

Church of Saint Nino

We take another look at the little church of Saint Nino in the garden. Then we continue to our very last destination.

 

 

It is a remarkably comfortable road that leads us up through a densely wooded V-shaped valley. For some time, no signs of habitation can be detected. Until we reach the head of the valley after a final climb of 16 %, and find ourselves looking at a pale yellow limestone rock face dotted with small black specks. These are caves, a favourite spot for early Christian monks.

 

Shiomgvime

Only crickets break the silence in this canyon. It is hard to believe that two thousand monks once resided here in the sixth century. Once again, it was a monk of Assyrian origin who laid the foundation for this monastic community. His name was Shio. In his later years, he retreated as a hermit into a deep cave, hence the name Shiomgvime – the Cave of Shio.

Through a pitch-black passage, we reach the underground chamber that houses a sarcophagus of very recent origin. There rests the body of Shio.

In 580 the architect was still struggling with the transition between a square space and a round dome. Pendentives would solve that problem

The oldest church of this complex, dedicated to John the Baptist, was probably completed around 580. It has a simple cross shape, without any pretentiousness. It's interesting to see how the master builder at that time still struggled with the transition between a square space and a round dome. Soon, architects would learn to solve this with pendentives, bulging triangles that allow for a smooth transition.

However, the frescoes dampen our enthusiasm. In the 19th century, they were renovated by Russians in European style. They look foreign and kitschy, especially the fresco of the Holy Trinity in the dome.

 

Shiomgvime – Main Church

Successive invasions by Persians and Ottomans decimated the monastic community, leaving the buildings in ruins each time. It was not until the 19th century that the main church could be restored to its current form. This did not help much, as the monastery was closed under the Bolsheviks.

 

The main church is dedicated to Theotokos – Mary who is not only the mother of Jesus of Nazareth, but also the Mother of God

Shiomgvime – Iconostasis of the Main Church

Today, a small monastic community resides here again, evidenced by the monk who is singing alone in the main church. The church is dedicated to Theotokos – Mary, who is not only the mother of Jesus of Nazareth but also the mother of God. On the vault above the choir, she is depicted holding the child Jesus in her arms.

 

Rock face with caves of early Christian monks

Shiomgvime – Main Church

Originally this was a domed church. During the restoration they were forced to limit themselves to a simple basilica form. So it has become a clumsy church, architectural elegance and refinement are hard to find.

The frescoes also offer little solace. The walls and ceiling are covered with them, but they are uninspired portraits of holy men, neatly adhering to the rules of hagiography.

 

Frescoes in the apse

The Kings of Georgia

Only the triptych with the Kings of Georgia captivates us. Twelve men and one woman, dressed in red and green garments, with a golden halo of sanctity around their heads. In a single image, they encapsulate our journey through Georgia.

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Jaak Palmans
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