Christmas child among Kalashnikovs

Georgia | Anno 2017

 

Friday, July 21 | Bavra – Vardzia – Akhaltsikhe

Saturday, July 22 | Akhaltsikhe – Borjomi – Motsameta – Gelati – Kutaisi

Sunday, July 23 | Kutaisi – Gori – Mukhrani – Tbilisi

 

 

Friday, July 21 | Bavra – Vardzia – Akhaltsikhe

Energetic, but with small eyes, that’s how our guide Rati welcomes us to Georgia. He hasn't seen his bed last night. No sooner had he said goodbye to his previous group than he had to rush to Bavra to pick us up. However, you wouldn’t know it from the way this local Harry Potter incarnation passionately tells us about his country. He does so with the same enthusiastic energy as when we first met him last weekend in Tbilisi.

 

Storks feel at home here, in the fields, on rooftops, on light poles, and in the sky

 

Today, our final destination is the fortress city of Akhaltsikhe, with a short detour to the Vardzia cave monastery. For now, though, we are still in the highlands, far from the valleys. Scanty farmhouses barely rise above the ground, bracing against the biting cold of the windswept plain. Here and there a dilapidated tractor stands on a yard. Piles of dried cow dung and bales of hay are stacked, waiting for winter. Storks feel at home here, in the fields, on rooftops, on light poles, and in the sky.

 

Piles of dried cow dung and bales of hay are stacked, waiting for winter

 

Just as the Armenians claim descent from Hayk and refer to their country as Hayastan, the Georgians regard Kartli as their forefather and sometimes call their land Sakartvelo. Rati explains that Hayk and Kartli are both great-grandsons of the biblical Noah, the man who escaped the flood with his ark.

 

 

He will not deny that there is a certain animosity between Georgians and Armenians – he himself will provide several examples of this over the coming days, whether intentionally or not. Nevertheless, the relationship between the two nations can be described as good. After all, Georgian and Armenian tragedies often share the same names: Seljuks, Mongols, Timurids, Ottomans, Soviets.

The Caucasus blocks the icy winds from Siberia, but it also shielded the country from the radioactive fallout of Chernobyl

Paravani Valley

As the flat land gradually transitions into ridges, with the occasional rocky outcrop, Rati points out that Georgia is indeed a mountainous country, with peaks reaching up to 5 200 meters. To the north stretches the Greater Caucasus – for many, the boundary between Europe and Asia. It's quite handy, having such a windbreak of about 1 200 km, as it blocks the icy winds from Siberia. It also shielded the country from the radioactive fallout of Chernobyl. While on the northern slope of the Caucasus they faced genetic abnormalities and vegetables with bizarre protrusions, Georgia was spared from that misery.

 

Paravani Valley – Khertvisi Castle

A bit further south, the Lesser Caucasus unfolds, running parallel to its larger counterpart. In fact, Georgia is largely wedged between these two mountain ranges, with a north-south connection in between – the Likhi Range. It’s not particularly impressive, but still high enough to divide Georgia into two virtual entities. This had political consequences. While in the west the Georgians primarily dealt with the Ottomans, in the east they were constantly at odds with the Persians.

Georgia is largely wedged between two mountain ranges, the Greater Caucasus and the Lesser Caucasus with a north-south connection in between – the Likhi Range

Khertvisi Castle

As soon as we leave the provincial town of Akhalkalaki behind, we descend into the narrow, steep valley of the Paravani. Where it meets the mighty Mtkvari River, the proud fortress of Khertvisi rises high above the confluence. This is one of the oldest forts in Georgia; a fortress is said to have already stood here as early as the 2nd century BCE.

 

Khertvisi Castle is one of the oldest forts in Georgia

We continue our journey upstream along the Mtkvari. Suddenly, on the opposite side of the river, the famous cliff face with dark spots appears. There must be hundreds of them, each dark spot marking the entrance to a cave. This is a very special place for Georgians – Vardzia, the cave monastery, a unique piece of religious, cultural, and historical heritage.

 

Vardzia Cave Monastery

But hunger is starting to stir. Shortly after two, we stop at Valodia’s Cottage, on the bank of the fast-flowing Mtkvari. Under a leafy canopy of grapevines, we stroll to the open-air restaurant. Low-hanging fruit trees tempt us with ripe, rosy-red cherries within arm’s reach. Cold dishes are already set on the table, with warm ones following immediately. There’s no distinction between starters and main courses here, as everything is served at once. What lavash is to the Armenians, khachapuri is to the Georgians – a flat, round bread filled with cheese. The red wine is served chilled.

The 12th century, Rati explains, turned out to be Georgia’s Golden Age. It was King David IV who initiated this prosperity. He was only sixteen when he came to power, yet he managed to unite the country under central authority and drive out the Seljuks. This earned him the nickname David the Builder, and he is still widely revered. In Kutaisi, they’ve even named their airport after him.

It was during the reign of his grandson, King George III, that the first caves were carved out around 1150. But it was under King Tamar, David the Builder’s great-granddaughter, that the cave monastery truly flourished. This Tamar must have been quite a remarkable woman, as Georgians still refer to her as king.

According to legend, the cave monastery even owes its name to Tamar. As a young girl, she supposedly got lost in the caves during a hunting trip with her uncle. When he called out her name, the words Ac var dzia echoed from the cave, meaning I’m here, uncle.

Under ‘King’ Tamar, David the Builder’s great-granddaughter the cave monastery truly flourished

This cave city once had nineteen levels, stretching over a length of five hundred meters. At its peak, it housed more than two thousand monks. Each cave had one or two rooms, carved out of the relatively soft tuff stone. Over time, they even developed a water system with clay pipes.

That came to a partial end with the earthquake of 1283. The fragile water system and the walls that sealed the caves couldn't withstand the force of the quake. The monastery largely survived the Mongol invasions, but the Persians dealt the final blow in 1552. They destroyed the monastery and took whatever wasn’t too hot or heavy. Since 1988, a handful of monks have lived there once again.

Currently, Vardzia is a candidate for recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s on the list to get on the list, Rati sums up the situation.

 

At its peak, the cave city of Vardzia housed over two thousand monks

 

A small bus takes us up. From there, we continue on foot along the mountainside. Below, the Mtkvari flows through the green valley, while the steep green slopes rise sharply on the opposite side. The view is spectacular. It must be said, as a monk here, you truly had a room with a view.

Through the freestanding, partially ruined bell tower, we enter deeper into the complex. We find a refectory, complete with a proper bench and a bread oven built into the ground. There’s also a wine press. In fact, wine cellars and barrels are abundant here. It seems wine played an important role in this monastery, much like beer in some Western abbeys.

 

Cave dwelling

Maze of corridors and stairs

What they call the Refuge turns out to be a dark labyrinth of corridors and stairways, likely intended as a hiding place in times of danger. Lamps are mounted on the walls, but none of them work. Armed with our flashlights, we set out for a bit of exploration.

 

Refuge

The central focus of this monastery is the Church of the Dormition of the Holy Virgin – both literally and figuratively. The frescoes in the narthex are particularly promising, though they are heavily damaged.

 

Interior with niches and bench		Chapel with lecterns and cross
Dining room with benches

For the first time, we encounter dress code regulations. Entering a Georgian church is not something you do lightly. Decent clothing is the rule. For women, this means a skirt – no pants – and a scarf over the head; for men, an outfit that does not expose shoulders or calves.

The artistic seccoes in the Church of the Dormition of the Holy Virgin became a milestone in Georgian painting

Church of the Dormition of the Holy Virgin

Apostles

 

A true gem it is, this rock church, largely thanks to a certain Giorgi Chari, the Michelangelo of his time. In 1185, he painted the ceiling, the apse, and the walls with scenes from the life of Jesus. These artistic frescoes became a milestone in Georgian painting. Although technically, what we see here are not frescoes but seccoes, as he worked on a dry plaster surface.

A true gem it is, this rock church, largely thanks to a certain Giorgi Chari, the Michelangelo of his time

King George III

‘King’ Tamar

We almost could have enjoyed all that beauty. Almost. In October 2016, the church was severely damaged by a fire. Today, the frescoes are hidden behind scaffolding, and the wooden iconostasis is wrapped in protective plastic. We can just make out the faces of King George III and his daughter, King Tamar.

 

 

Through the valley of the Mtkvari we descend towards Akhaltsikhe. A new fortress is what that means, although the fortress that dominates the town has been there since the 12th century. About five years ago, it underwent a significant renovation, with shops, a restaurant, and a hotel established within its walls. That’s where we’ll be staying for the night.

 

Mktravi Valley

Later in the evening the first raindrops fall. In the distance even ominous thunder rolls.

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Saturday, July 22 | Akhaltsikhe – Borjomi – Motsameta – Gelati – Kutaisi

The thick clouds can't hold out for long. By nine o'clock, the sun has a firm grip on the sky. We quickly follow Gvansja up the steps of the fortress as she tells her story. The tale is breathtaking – at least in terms of her pace.

Ethnic diversity and religious tolerance have not been empty concepts here for centuries

Akhaltsikhe – Rabati with citadel, coronation hall and mosque

Akhaltsikhe has always been an important stop on the Silk Road. The Bagrationi must have thought that maintaining such a position would require a fortified fortress. So, in the 9th century, they built a stronghold on the left bank of the Potskhovi and named it Lomisa, meaning Lion. The Mongols destroyed the site in the 13th century, while the Timurids, on the other hand, found it too tough to conquer a century later.

Akhaltsikhe has always been an important stop on the Silk Road

In the 16th century, the Ottomans appeared – Turkey is just 18 km away. From 1590 onward, they took control. They gave the complex a thorough renovation, adding a mosque and a madrasa in 1752. The town was henceforth called Akhaltsikhe, meaning New Fortress, while the fortress itself was named Rabati, meaning Strong Fortress.

 

Citadel and crowing hall

Chamber of the Meskhetians

In the 18th century, the Russians made their appearance. It wasn't without struggle, but eventually, they also captured the fortress and established a military hospital there.

In the distance, Gvansja points to a Catholic monastery on the hillside. Georgians, Armenians, Meskhetians, Russians, Catholics, and Jews live together peacefully in this region. In addition to various Christian churches – Georgian Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic, and Catholic – you can also find a synagogue and a mosque in Akhaltsikhe. Ethnic diversity and religious tolerance have not been empty concepts here for centuries, she concludes.

 

Church of St. George

'King' Tamar

In the meantime, we have reached the inner courtyard of the castle complex. In the small St. George's Church hangs an image of – how could it be otherwise – St. George busy killing a dragon. But David the Builder is also represented, along with Tamar, a king with braids.

This inner courtyard is an eclectic mix, with its corridor in red brick, medieval gateway, massive mosque, bizarre Russian pavilion, and the hall of coronation, which Gvansja casually refers to as being in the Alhambra style.

 

Crowning hall

But it’s the golden dome of the Ahmadiyya Mosque that continually draws our eyes. Its brilliance radiates across the entire area, an effect further enhanced by its reflection in the serene water basin in front of the mosque. This basin was used for ritual purification, but Gvansja reassures us that this is no longer the case – as if that would be a concern for us.

The brilliance of the golden dome of the Ahmadiyya Mosque radiates across the entire area

Ahmadiyya Mosque with basin for ritual purification

The tsarist Russians converted this mosque into a church, and the Soviet Russians later used it as a storage space. Today, it serves as a museum. However, you shouldn’t expect too much, as the vast space is empty. Even the wooden upper floor for women has vanished.

 

Mosque – Madrasa

Mosque – Prayer hall

The madrasa contains around twenty cells spread across two floors. They had six hundred books in various languages, but the Russians took three hundred of them to the Hermitage Museum in Saint Petersburg. Fortunately, because the remaining manuscripts were destroyed in a fire.

The historical museum of Samtskhe-Javakheti has also found a home here. It’s quite a mouthful, but that’s simply the name of the province. It’s also quite a surprise, as the halls are filled with fascinating objects.

 

The focus is primarily on the culture of the Meskhetians, a people of ethnic Turks

The focus is primarily on the culture of the Meskhetians, a people of ethnic Turks. They have lived in this region for thousands of years until Stalin decided in November 1944 that Meskhetians actually belonged in Uzbekistan, 2 500 km away.

Their proficiency in metallurgy over four thousand years ago is evident from the numerous artefacts – necklaces, bracelets, pendants, pins, and brooches. Many of these items are grave goods from kurgans or burial mounds. The first coins appeared in the 6th century BCE.

 

Excerpt from 'The Knight in the Panther's Skin' by Shota Rustaveli

Builder of a church with cross and hammer

Gvansja is very proud of a fragment from the manuscript of The Knight in the Panther Skin. This epic was written by Shota Rustaveli in the 12th century. The 1 600 quatrains are reminiscent of our courtly medieval literature. Over time, the work has grown into one of the classics of Georgian literature – essentially the national epic. The manuscript before us dates from the 16th century, making it the oldest known version.

A bas-relief depicts a man holding a cross in one hand and a hammer in the other. A jihadist avant la lettre? No, this man is about to build a church.

 

Component of water pipe of Vardzia cave monastery

Equally fascinating is a clay pot that must have been part of the water system of the cave monastery Vardzia. It seems to have connected two perpendicular pipes together.

 

This inner courtyard is an eclectic mix, with its corridor in red brick, medieval gateway, massive mosque, bizarre Russian pavilion, and the hall of coronation

We climb the 69 steps of the tower for a stunning view of the city and the citadel. Then we leave Achaltsikhe behind us and head east, with the familiar Mtkvari as our guide. Agriculture thrives well in this valley – grains, grapes, and potatoes are the main crops.

 

Mktvari Valley

From a hill, a dilapidated fortress overlooks Atskuri. The sleepy little village doesn’t seem like much. But that’s just an illusion, for it was here that Saint Andrew built the first church in Georgia and appointed the first bishop. In the Orthodox tradition, they call him Saint Andrew the First-Called, as he is believed to have been the first follower of Jesus and therefore the first apostle.

However, the Christians in this region were soon persecuted and massacred. A second Christianization was needed before Christianity could take root in Georgia. This would become the task of Saint Nino, as we will learn later.

One of the valleys is called the Red Gorge, so much blood was shed there by the Persians in the 16th century

Castles to defend the valley are plentiful here. Numerous armies have fiercely battled in this region. Take the Persians, for instance, who, in the 16th century, spilled so much blood that one of the valleys was called the Red Gorge. To this day, it’s said that you can still find rocks stained red with blood.

After the Persians came the Ottomans, followed by the Russians. But in the end, the annexation by Tsarist Russia wasn’t necessarily a bad thing for Georgia, according to Rati. From western Georgia, they gradually began to conquer eastern Georgia as well. About a century later, this led to the de facto creation of a united Georgia for the first time.

However, this doesn’t mean that Rati and the Russians are the best of friends. The events of 2008 still cause a lot of turmoil. When we ask whether it was wise of Mikheil Saakashvili to respond to Russian provocations and try to reclaim South Ossetia, sparks Rati into a fiery speech.

 

Watchtower

It was them who started it, he says firmly, not us. The idea that Georgia was the one to start it is pure Russian propaganda. What Saakashvili did was respond to tensions and provocations. How could he just ignore the fact that separatists were killing civilians and soldiers?

Granted, there was a so-called peacekeeping force in place, but in reality, it consisted of Russian soldiers wearing blue helmets. When Georgian troops entered the so-called South Ossetia to liberate it, it turned out that the Russians had secretly prepared a thousand tanks and BMPs – Russian infantry fighting vehicles – in the Roki Tunnel. That tunnel, cutting through the Greater Caucasus, connects Russia with Georgia.

On August 8, 2008, Russian tanks rolled into Georgia. They were hidden in the Roki Tunnel

On August 8, 2008, those tanks rolled into Georgia. Barely two days later, they were just 45 kilometres from the capital, Tbilisi. That’s only possible if the operation had been planned well in advance. The important Georgian city of Gori was bombed and occupied, and even the outskirts of Tbilisi were bombed.

This is still fresh in Rati's memory, as he was a teenager when all of this happened. He was born on December 25, 1991, in Tbilisi – a Christmas baby, so. But it was far from a peaceful Christmas. At that time, there was also chaos in Georgia, this time a civil war. Bullets flew around the ambulance that was rushing his heavily pregnant mother to the hospital. Downstairs in the hospital, a firefight with Kalashnikovs was taking place as he was being born.

Thankfully, we have more peaceful activities ahead, as our driver Jimmy has just parked the bus in Borjomi. It's very busy here, with local tourists arriving in droves. Rati joins a rather long line to buy a ticket.

Downstairs in the hospital, a firefight with Kalashnikovs was taking place as he was being born

Borjomi – Original bottling plant

When the Russians rediscovered the mineral spring of Borjomi in 1810, it had long fallen into obscurity. Soon after, the spring water was attributed with healing properties. The Russians saw more than enough reason to turn it into a spa resort. Every year, more than four hundred million bottles of Borjomi are bottled for both domestic and international markets. However, this no longer happens at the original bottling plant. However, nostalgic black and white photos evoke memories of the good old days.

 

Original bottling plant

Transport

Grand Duke Nicholas Mikhailovich, one of the Romanovs, also found Borjomi quite charming. So much so that in 1890, he built the luxurious Likani Palace on the banks of the Mtkvari River, complete with its own hydroelectric plant to generate electricity.

Under the Soviets, the fame of Borjomi’s mineral water continued to grow. That is, until Putin threw a wrench in the works. From 2006 to 2013, he banned the import of the spring water, as Putin has always been keen to provoke Georgia whenever he gets the chance.

 

Borjomi – Ekaterina Spring

The Ekaterina Spring is the place to be. With a simple request, you can have a bottle or cup filled with the delicious spring water. Two employees seem to have a full-time job doing just that. We also take a sip of the lukewarm, cloudy water. Just a sip, because we can't get more of the stuff over our lips.

 

Ekaterina Spring

From Khashuri, we head westward across the Likhi Mountains. This mountain range, rising to about two thousand meters, has always driven a wedge between East and West Georgia – not just geographically, but also politically and culturally. The pass, just shy of a thousand meters, was never insurmountable, but it was enough of a psychological barrier.

Today, a wide asphalt road smoothly takes us over the mountains, with the 1 750-meter-long Rikoti Tunnel as the highest point. The route is quite busy, but the traffic doesn’t stall. A hearse, with a half-meter chrome cross perched vertically on its roof, speeds ahead of us through the winding turns.

Colchis, the western part of Georgia, was the place where Jason was said to have sought the Golden Fleece

Colchis, that’s what the ancient Greeks called the western part of Georgia, which we are now descending toward. For them, it was the land on the other side of the Black Sea. It's not unfamiliar to us either, as it was the place where Jason was said to have sought the Golden Fleece.

A little after four, we are joined by the Kvirila River near Zestaponi. About half an hour later, we reach Kutaisi, Georgia’s second-largest city. But for now, that’s not our destination.

 

Like a fortified stronghold, Motsameta lies hidden amidst the greenery on a rocky outcrop high above the Tskaltsitela

Just north of the city, a few gems await us. Motsameta, to begin with. It’s a small monastery, tucked away like a fortified stronghold amidst the greenery. But the location is stunning – perched on a rocky outcrop, high above the Tskaltsitela, the Red River, which encircles the monastery in a dramatic 180-degree bend.

The river owes its grim name to a massacre in the early 8th century. At that time, the Arabs had set their sights on Georgia. Local rulers, the brothers Davit and Konstantin Mkheidze, fiercely resisted them.

But the enemy's superiority was overwhelming. The brothers were given a choice: convert to Islam or face martyrdom. Islam was out of the question for them. Three principles – their language, their religion, and their land – were sacred to them, as Rati emphasizes. The brothers were given millstones around their necks and thrown into the river.

 

Motsameta

Image of the two brothers

But the story doesn't end there, as legend has it. Two lions retrieved the bodies and brought them back to the church. There, the martyrs were venerated as saints. They now rest in the church's crypt. Motsameta is derived from the Georgian word for martyrdom.

The communists went so far as to drag the precious relics through the sand

But things can change, because the Soviets were not keen on relics. In 1923, members of the Cheka, the secret police, led by a certain Ordzonikidze, showed up to restore order. Even now, Rati speaks the name of that despicable individual with great disgust – an easy feat given all those consonants. The communists went so far as to drag the precious relics through the sand. Any reasonable person can only cheer for the fact that everyone involved in that infamous act soon met a terrible end. One was killed by his son, another went insane, and yet another died of tuberculosis.

 

Motsameta – Iconostasis

The sound greeting us from the small church is much more peaceful. However, we can't quite place it at first. A service is taking place, with a priest, a few altar boys, an obligatory worshiper, and a woman who is continuously reciting prayers. It turns out the sound is coming from an altar bell. The chimes accompany the priest as he makes his rounds with the censer.

 

Motsameta – Prayer service

We quietly observe the rituals. Only now do we notice how heavily laden with symbolism even a simple gesture like making the sign of the cross can be. While Western Christians first touch the left shoulder and then the right, here it’s done the other way around – first right, then left. Moreover, it’s not done with a flat hand but with the thumb, index finger, and middle finger touching each other. Together, these three connected fingers symbolize the Holy Trinity, while the two free fingers represent the divine and human natures of Jesus. This way, according to the Eastern Orthodox Church, one emphasizes the dual nature of Jesus.

Only now do we notice how heavily laden with symbolism even a simple gesture like making the sign of the cross can be

The Armenian Apostolic Church, on the other hand, has a different view. There, they form a closed circle with the thumb and ring finger. The index finger represents the Father, and the middle finger represents the Son. This last one has only one nature, as indicated by the closed circle formed between the ring finger and the thumb. Finally, the little finger represents the Holy Spirit.

Then a heavily built man enters the church. Dressed in a long grey robe, with a large gilded cross on his chest, he immediately attracts attention. He is the head priest of this church. The altar boys fervently kiss his hand, his arm, his shoulder, and his gilded crucifix. The priest continues with his service, but the head priest seems uninterested in it. Outside, he sits on a bench to wait for the end of the service.

 

Davit and Konstantin Mkheidze

Gilded coffin of the two martyrs

Very unusually, the altar of this church is oriented to the north, rather than to the east, as that honour is reserved for the two martyrs. Their bones are housed in a gilded coffin, supported, not coincidentally, by two lions. Through a glass window, you can admire the skulls of the brothers, neatly placed side by side on a silk pillow. Below the tomb monument, there is a passage. Anyone who crawls underneath the monument three times without touching it will have their wish granted.

 

Gelati Monastery

Higher up in the valley lies the Gelati Monastery. What makes this monastery special is the interior of the church, with its unique frescoes and mosaics. Fortunately, because the exterior of the church building is almost entirely covered in scaffolding. Just a few years ago, the monastery was even at risk of being removed from the UNESCO World Heritage list. Maintenance and renovation were reportedly not being carried out according to the rules of the art, threatening to undermine the original character of the monastery.

In the Middle Ages, Gelati was even referred to as the New Athens or the Second Jerusalem

Gelati Monastery

In the Middle Ages, Gelati was the largest spiritual and cultural centre of Georgia. Without any hesitation, the monastery was even referred to as the New Athens or the Second Jerusalem. Founded in 1106, it only became a bishopric in the 14th century. In 1510, the Ottomans put an end to that, and in 1922, the communists caused turmoil. Nevertheless, the monastery managed to overcome these troubles time and again.

 

The comparison to the Sistine Chapel may be a bit exaggerated, but it's the first thought that comes to mind as we enter the church

The comparison to the Sistine Chapel may be a bit exaggerated, but it's the first thought that comes to mind as we enter the church. The walls and ceilings are completely covered with vibrant frescoes. Some date back to the 16th century, while others are from the 12th century. Rati points out a Pietà of Mary with the deceased Christ, Judas Iscariot hanging himself, Pontius Pilate washing his hands, and more. Particularly noteworthy is the depiction of the most important rulers of Georgia, including David the Builder, his grandson George III, and his great-granddaughter Tamar.

 

Side chapel – Mother of God with Jesus

Ceiling vault side chapel – Annunciation, birth of Jesus

When the door of the side chapel unexpectedly swings open, we are greeted by dazzling frescoes there as well. It takes some effort to appreciate them, as our eyes must adjust to the darkness.

 

Instead of a fresco, a stunning mosaic from 1120 depicts the Virgin Mary with the Child Jesus

But it is the vault of the apse that leaves the deepest impression. Instead of a fresco, a stunning mosaic from 1120 depicts the Virgin Mary with the Child Jesus. She is flanked by the archangels Michael and Gabriel. Experts rave about the dynamic combinations of colours, shapes, and proportions, claiming they even surpass those of the mosaics in Hagia Sophia in Istanbul.

 

Apse – Virgin Mary with child Jesus (mosaic)

Lighting a candle

The academy of the monastery is housed in a rather unassuming 12th-century building. Its massive structure is not so much built up in height but rather spreads out in width. This stands in stark contrast to the Gothic style that was flourishing in the West at the time, which preferred pointed forms to reach greater heights, as Rati points out.

At that time, the greatest scientists, philosophers, and theologians worked here. Education was one of David the Builder's primary concerns. He even sent gifted youths to Constantinople to gain knowledge.

Several rulers are buried here, including David the Builder himself, who, in a moment of humility, chose to be buried under the southern gate. Anyone entering the monastery complex could not help but walk over his grave. As a sinner, he believed he deserved no better.

Anyone entering the monastery complex could not help but walk over his grave. As a sinner, he believed he deserved no better

Kings of Georgia

Thunder rumbles above the mountains. Raindrops begin to fall even before we reach the bus, and along the way, it turns into pouring rain. Nevertheless, we manage to enter the hotel with dry feet. Once again, we find ourselves in a spa resort, this time a bit northwest of Kutaisi. What makes Tskaltubo famous is the water from its thermal springs – warm, healing, and slightly radioactive.

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Sunday, July 23 | Kutaisi – Gori – Mukhrani – Tbilisi

The grey clouds hang low over Tskaltubo. The parking lot asphalt is wet, but it is no longer raining. Three pigs wander carelessly between the parked cars – life as it is in Tskaltubo.

Our bus climbs above Kutaisi along a bumpy cobblestone road. The rain pelts against the windows. Gradually, the water curtain reveals the Bagrati Cathedral, dedicated to the Dormition of the Mother of God.

In 1994, the Bagrati Cathedral was included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. However, earlier this month, UNESCO removed the cathedral from the list.

This is the work of Bagrat III. Driving out the Byzantines and Arabs was his primary concern, but that didn’t stop him from having this cathedral built in the meantime. According to an inscription on the façade, he completed the project in 1003. Furthermore, he managed to unite all of Georgia under his rule. Thus, a second golden age began for the country in the 11th century, following the brilliant years of the 6th to 8th centuries.

 

Kutaisi – Bagrati, Cathedral of the Dormition of the Mother of God

Bishop of Kutaisi

In 1994, the Bagrati Cathedral was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List. At that time, it was a dilapidated structure, more of a ruin than a cathedral, as the church had been repeatedly destroyed in the 17th and 18th centuries.

 

 

In 2001, the Georgian Orthodox Church began renovation, investing substantial financial resources and even more enthusiasm. This raised eyebrows at UNESCO, as the original character of the building seemed to be at risk. But what exactly is the original character of a centuries-old building? Rati scoffs. Fair or not, earlier this month, UNESCO removed the cathedral from the World Heritage List.

 

A young priest recites texts from the Bible. He doesn't need a microphone. His deep voice reverberates through the gigantic church building, crystal clear

But that doesn’t dampen our spirits. We quietly observe the Sunday service that is currently taking place. The bishop himself leads the service, dressed in full regalia, with a gilded crown on his head. A women’s choir sings religious hymns.

 

 

There are no chairs. About a hundred worshippers stand to attend the service, scattered throughout the nave. Women wear headscarves, and both men and women hold lit candles in their hands.

Then the bishop begins his procession through the church, incense burner in one hand and two lit candles in the other. He whispers prayers before the images of the most important saints. As he passes, everyone bows deeply. A young priest recites texts from the Bible. He doesn’t need a microphone; his deep voice reverberates throughout the gigantic church building, crystal clear.

We dash back to the bus through the pouring rain. But it takes more than a little downpour to dampen Rati’s enthusiasm. Soaking wet, he outlines the history of this region – how the banks of the Rioni were already inhabited in the 13th century BCE, how the Arabs ended the early kingdoms, how they were in turn expelled by Bagrat, how the Timurids wreaked havoc, and how the Ottomans and Persians divided the country between them in the 16th century.

It has become a very modern glass construction, intended to illustrate the transparency of policy

Kutaisi – Parliament Building

So Kutaisi is the largest city of the seven western provinces – counting the rebellious Abkhazia as well. Enough reason to build the new parliamentary building here, Saakashvili thought. It has become a very modern glass construction, intended to illustrate the transparency of policy. Both the status of Kutaisi and local tourism received a boost.

However, criticism soon followed. It is an expensive affair for all those parliament members who have to rush back and forth between Tbilisi and Kutaisi – a distance of more than 220 km. Some believe the seat of parliament belongs in the capital. This will not be easy, as Saakashvili cunningly enshrined this in the constitution.

That happens to be exactly the route we have ahead of us today, from Kutaisi to Tbilisi, right through Georgia. To our surprise, this is part of the network of Euro routes, specifically the E60. This route stretches over a distance of 8 200 km, running from Brest in France to Irkeshtam in Kyrgyzstan on the border with China. Mind you, along the way you will have to cross both the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea.

We secretly hope that by heading east we can gradually leave the rain behind us. And it seems to be working, as the road surface is dry in Zestaponi.

The E60 runs over a distance of 8 200 km from Brest in France to Irkeshtam in Kyrgyzstan on the border with China

We climb further into the mountains, through the valley of Dziroela. Life in this valley has likely not always been easy, but in the 9th century, a certain Gregory of Chandzta reached the blessed age of 102 here. He was a spiritual leader, and he had quite a few monasteries built in the surrounding area.

 

Ubisa Monastery

One of those monasteries is the Ubisa Monastery. The modest building lies tucked away in the greenery down in the valley. In 1141, they added a four-story bell tower. Inside, we find beautiful murals from the 14th century.

 

Iconostasis

For the rest, there seems to be nothing special to report. But that’s just an illusion. Because those murals are the work of Damiane, a Georgian artist who had grown weary of the religious asceticism in medieval art. Freedom and dynamism, space and perspective, elegance and realism – that is what he expressed in his work.

Freedom and dynamism, space and perspective, elegance and realism – that is what Damiane expressed in his work. A precursor of the Renaissance thus

Ubisa – Last Supper (Damiane)

Ubisa – Scenes from the Life of Christ (Damiane)

Damiane drew his inspiration from the ailing Byzantium. Politically, Byzantium had long been in decline, but art and science were experiencing a genuine revival. So much so that later on, the scholars who fled would help spark the Renaissance in the West.

What we see here is a distant echo of those developments. Scenes from the life of Jesus are depicted, including the Annunciation, the Crucifixion, and the Last Supper, where Judas Iscariot is shown ostentatiously reaching for the salt shaker – a symbol of his betrayal. The figures are certainly lively and realistic, although the perspective is somewhat disorienting. Jesus and the apostles are shown frontally, while we look straight down on the surface of the table, as if it has been tilted at a ninety-degree angle.

 

Ubisa Monastery

The rain from the west has now caught up with us, but that doesn't matter. Soon enough, between the low-hanging clouds, the black mouth of the Rikoti Tunnel appears. It doesn’t take long before the sun breaks through the clouds on the eastern side of the Likhi Mountains.

We descend towards Surami, strategically located at the foot of the only pass connecting east and west. Naturally, this calls for a fortress, especially with the strategic Borjomi Gorge just around the corner.

Desperate, the builder did what anyone in such a situation would do – he called upon a witch

It must have been an imposing stronghold, judging by the ruins high on a natural rock formation. It probably dates back to the 12th century, but it was not built without difficulty. The builder struggled to complete the final part of his fortress. Desperate, he did what anyone in such a situation would do – he called upon a witch. She immediately understood the problem. A male only child had to be walled into the structure. And so it happened, and the fortress was finally completed.

Meanwhile, the E60 has expanded into a highway with two lanes in each direction, and the sun is fully shining. Just before three, we approach Gori, an important crossroads not only for the east-west connection but also for the north-south route.

It was here in 2008 that Putin's troops appeared from the north. Rati points out apartment blocks that were heavily damaged by Russian bombings during that five-day war. He assures us that YouTube videos of the destruction can still be found.

Whoever controls this region holds power over all of eastern Georgia. Centuries ago, the Mongols entrusted that control to the Ossetians, as they were a related people. The consequences of that decision are still felt in the 21st century.

In 1918, Armenians claimed this area because they saw it as Armenian. Of course, the Georgians did not agree. In response, they wanted to conquer Yerevan. It was the British who managed to prevent that.

Rati believes it’s too simplistic to conclude that Armenia and Georgia are constantly at odds. He points out that not too long ago – by which he means in the 1st century BCE – Armenians and Georgians stood side by side in their resistance against the Romans.

But Gori is more than just a crossroads of major roads. Its dubious reputation extends far beyond Georgia, thanks to Iosib Vissarionovich Dzhugashvili, who was born here. His malicious visage looms meters high on the façade of one of the annexes of the museum dedicated to his life.

His malicious visage looms meters high on the façade of one of the annexes of the museum dedicated to his life

Gori – Stalin Museum

We enter the outdated museum with mixed feelings. A local guide is unavailable, so Rati will take it upon himself to lead the tour. This is quite unfortunate, as we would have liked to gauge just how attached the local population still is to the memory of their dictator.

 

Gori – Young Iosib Dzhugashvili with his parents

A simple boy he was, born here on December 21, 1879, the son of an impoverished cobbler. In school, he excelled. Under the pseudonym Soselo, he even wrote poetry that garnered some recognition in the Georgian literary world.

Then came the transition to a seminary for priestly studies. It quickly became apparent that his revolutionary ideas did not align with a religious calling, so he was asked to leave.

He soon found himself more at home in the fight for the proletariat – organizing demonstrations, strikes, occasionally a bank robbery, or a revolution like the one in the coastal city of Batumi in 1905. But the secret police were constantly on his heels, forcing him to live mostly underground and frequently adopt new aliases. Despite his cleverness, he often found himself in distant Siberia for lengthy, involuntary stays. It wasn't until 1912 that he permanently adopted the name Stalin, derived from the Russian word for steel.

For nearly thirty years, Stalin ruled the Soviet Union as a ruthless dictator

Joseph Stalin, Vladimir Lenin and Leon Trotsky (1919)

Gradually, he rose through the ranks of the party apparatus and became a close confidant of Lenin. When Lenin passed away in 1924, Stalin assumed sole control. For nearly thirty years, he ruled the Soviet Union as a ruthless dictator. Deportations, executions, and purges were the order of the day. Entire populations were displaced thousands of kilometres like powerless pawns on a map. Millions perished under his regime through unnatural deaths. Estimates of the exact number vary; the lowest puts the figure at 9 million, while the highest suggests as many as 20 million.

Millions perished under Stalin’s regime through unnatural deaths. The lowest estimate puts the figure at 9 million, the highest at 20 million

Winston Churchill, Franklin Roosevelt and Jozeph Stalin (Jalta, 1945)

Of course, the museum says nothing about this. Instead, it emphasizes the ultimate victory over the Nazis, which is attributed solely to Stalin's courage, perseverance, and genius. We also don't read anything about the 700 000 Georgians who fought alongside the Russians in the war, nor that half of them didn't survive. Rati calls this utterly disproportionate, claiming the Georgians were simply sacrificed as cannon fodder.

Both of Rati's grandfathers were drafted into service by the Russians. His maternal grandfather fought on the Kerch Peninsula in Crimea during the months-long Battle of Sevastopol, where a landmine partially blew off both his legs. His paternal grandfather, in hand-to-hand combat, took a bullet through the mouth but managed to kill his attacker. He survived captivity in two Nazi camps, and after escaping, Ukrainian villagers saved him by hiding him under a haystack for months, secretly feeding him.

Rati does not deny that some Georgians fought alongside the Nazis. It was a small faction lured by the Nazis' promise of an independent Georgia.

After Stalin's death in 1953, he was buried alongside Lenin in the latter's mausoleum. However, Nikita Khrushchev wasn't pleased with this, and in 1961, he had Stalin's remains moved to the necropolis by the Kremlin wall.

As for the Gori museum, it must settle for Stalin's death mask. A whole room is dedicated to it, featuring nothing but that small black mask in the centre – a bombast that can only provoke laughter. The displayed mask is a replica of the original. It's smaller because each copy is slightly reduced in size. This is the sixth copy in a series of nine, Rati notes.

The fact that the Georgian government still does not dare to confront Stalin in his own hometown after all these years seems significant to us

Stalin knickknacks

 

Immediately after Stalin's death, a cult of personality was established. We are presented with an image of Stalin celebrated as a man of the people. Khrushchev attempted to scale back this campaign too.

There’s no mention, of course, of the deportations, executions, or purges. Or so we think, until Rati corrects us. Hidden under the stairs on the ground floor, we indeed find a replica of a cell where prisoners awaited execution. On a small desk lie several documents detailing orders for execution. On the wall hang copies of handwritten notes that deportees threw from trains in a desperate attempt to inform their families of their fate.

 

A room featuring nothing but that small black mask in the centre can only provoke laughter

A drop of criticism in a sea of propaganda; this is clumsy, subpar, and shameful. Rest assured, Rati tells us, Stalin's misdeeds will indeed be addressed later in Tbilisi. The fact that the Georgian government still does not dare to confront Stalin in his own hometown after all these years seems significant to us.

 

Gori – Stalin's Parental Home

The neighbouring house where Stalin was born in 1879 and spent his early childhood has since been turned into a monument. A grand canopy protects it completely from the rain.

 

Stalin's armoured steel train carriage

Also present on the museum grounds is the train carriage that the dictator used for his travels, a monstrous 83-ton vehicle made of armoured steel. Stalin had a strong dislike for airplanes and was constantly wary of assassination attempts. A handful of tourists strolls through the compartments. They are Kyrgyz, as the kalpak, the typical felt hat worn by men, makes it unmistakable.

 

Train Carriage

Shortly after three, we continue along the familiar E60. On the right, a neighbourhood appears with about a hundred recently constructed houses. With its rectangular street layout and identical white houses with red roofs, it resembles a garrison district. However, these are not soldiers but refugees from South Ossetia who have been resettled here – Georgians who had to leave their homes and possessions behind after the Russian invasion in 2008. You can still see the devastation in villages like Kurta on Google Maps satellite images.

For South Ossetia is not far from here. Near the village of Karapila, it's just a 400-meter walk through the fields from the E60 to the border with South Ossetia. The hills we see in the distance, barely two kilometres away, are occupied by Russian troops. With their barbed wire barriers, they block roads, rob farmers of their orchards and fields, and tear families apart. Just a few days ago, on July 14, the American ambassador came to witness this firsthand. Rati expresses his frustration, noting that the Russians don't even hesitate to shift the barbed wire further south.

Gorbachev campaigned against excessive alcohol consumption in the Soviet Union. This was a heavy blow to wine growing

Chateau Mukhrani

At Chateau Mukhrani, there’s no sign of the tensions. A cheerful group of wedding guests flutters around the castle and through the gardens. For centuries, this estate belonged to the Mukhranbatoni family, a lineage of royal blood, Irakli explains to us in flawless English. There was no winemaking here until things changed when Prince Ivane took an interest in the wonderful world of vinification in France in 1875. Upon his return, he brought back an expert from Bordeaux and one from Champagne. Together, they established this winery, quickly producing half a million bottles annually.

Then the Soviet Russians came and disrupted everything. In 1985, there was even a complete switch to fruit trees, as mandated by Gorbachev, who was campaigning against excessive alcohol consumption in the Soviet Union.

In 2002, four men joined forces to restore the estate's original purpose – two Georgians, a Swede, and a Frenchman. Since then, they have established a production of 400 000 bottles per year on a 102-hectare domain. That may not seem like much, but it’s the quality that counts here, not the quantity, Irakli insists, his expression leaving no room for disagreement.

They now use twelve types of grapes, a mix of Georgian and French varieties. Harvesting occurs at the end of September and beginning of October. The picked grapes are on their way to the automatic wine presses within twenty minutes of leaving the field.

 

Chateau Mukhrani – Fermentation vats

In the past, they allowed the pressed grapes to ferment in kvevris, large earthenware vessels ranging from 900 to 1 500 litres that were completely buried in the ground. Nowadays, they use brand new stainless steel tanks for this process.

 

Chateau Mukhrani – Wine cellars

The wedding party has meanwhile dived into the wine cellars, and so do we. In beautifully renovated underground spaces, the wine is aging in barrels made from Armenian, French, and Californian oak. A Chateau Mukhrani Saperavi 2014 completes our visit. The label reveals the French influence: Depuis 1878 and Grand Vin de Géorgie.

Toasting is not only an art and passion in Armenia; the Georgians excel at it too. This becomes clear as Rati takes the floor as tamada – essentially a toastmaster. One after another, we raise our glasses in honour of those present and their families, to the sun and life, and to our dear departed.

Toasting is not only an art and passion in Armenia; the Georgians excel at it too

It's already a quarter past seven when we reach Tbilisi for an ultra-short stay of exactly twelve hours. Tomorrow, we must set off early again – this time to Kakheti, the premier wine region of Georgia. That promises to be exciting.

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Jaak Palmans
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New wine in old barrels