Defeat became victory

Armenia | Anno 2017

 

Thursday, July 20 | Yerevan – Zvartnots – Etchmiadzin – Aruch – Talin – Gyumri

Friday, July 21 | Gyumri – Marmashen – Bavra

 

 

Thursday, July 20 | Yerevan – Zvartnots – Etchmiadzin – Aruch – Talin – Gyumri

Gradually, Zvartnots comes into view through the window. For Armenians, this is a very special place. It was here that Gregory – before he was called the Illuminator – cured King Trdat of his madness and thus introduced Christianity to Armenia in 301. In 652, a cathedral was built here in his honour. Sometime in the 10th century, it was destroyed. Whether by an earthquake or an invasion, no one knows. Today, all that remains are the ruins of the building.

Inside, there was only one floor. A large open space, then, almost 49 meters high. Quite a bold construction for that time

Cathedral of Zvartnots

And that's a pity. Because at that time, this was a completely new concept. We can see this with our own eyes in the little museum, where a model is on display. From the outside, the round building appeared to consist of three stories, but inside, there was only one floor. A large open space, then, almost 49 meters high. Quite a bold construction for that time.

Another new feature was that the baptismal font was located inside the church. Previously, it always stood outside. After all, the unbaptized were not allowed to enter the church.

 

Capitals with geometric motifs …

… and an eagle

To minimize outward pressure as much as possible, they used lightweight building materials, particularly tuff stone at critical points. The capitals delight us with beautifully carved motifs. The most striking is the eagle with its outspread wings.

 

 

The iconic view of Mount Ararat, with the ruins of the cathedral in the foreground, must be stunning, but we won’t enjoy it, as today the gloomy mountain hides once again behind the clouds. This is somewhat compensated by a trio of professional opera singers who appear among the ruins. They perform traditional songs, but they categorically refuse any tips.

 

Etchmiadzin is the Vatican of the Armenian Apostolic Church, where the Catholicos has his seat

Now we head to Etchmiadzin, the Vatican of the Armenian Apostolic Church, where the Catholicos has his seat. Or, more accurately, where one of the Catholicoi has his seat. In fact, there are two. Another resides in Antelias, Lebanon. In principle, this one is subordinate to the Catholicos of Etchmiadzin – though he doesn't always act accordingly. Additionally, the Armenian Apostolic Church has two patriarchs, one in Istanbul and another in Jerusalem.

 

Etchmiadzin – Cathedral

A reunion between the two Catholicosates is not in the cards for now, as the divide between them is very deep. So deep, in fact, that in the USA most Armenian communities have two churches, where the same faith is professed but under different affiliations. Even Karekin II, currently the Catholicos of Etchmiadzin but previously the Catholicos of Antelias, has not succeeded in mending the rift.

And that has everything to do with the Soviet occupation of Armenia, as the Catholicosate of Etchmiadzin was seen as being too closely aligned with the communist regime. This was viewed as sheer opportunism by those in Antelias.

 

King Trdat III and Gregory the Illuminator

Lighting candles

Just before eleven, we arrive in Vagharshapat, which is the official name of Etchmiadzin. The tuff stone gate features images of King Trdat III and Gregory the Illuminator, as expected. The patron saints of the Armenian Apostolic Church, Bartholomew and Thaddeus, are also depicted. The latter is shown with a spear, as he is the one who gifted Armenia the spear that pierced Jesus’ side, which they still proudly display today.

 

Etchmiadzin – Cathedral

The cathedral is under scaffolding; it is undergoing yet another restoration. This is not surprising, as the building dates back to 480, making it the oldest cathedral in the world. In the garden, a monument for the Armenian genocide was erected in 1965, exactly fifty years after the events.

This location also holds special significance. It was here that Gregory saw Jesus Christ descend from heaven along a beam of light and touch the earth with a golden hammer in a vision. That was all Gregory needed to establish a cathedral at this site.

 

Dome with pendentives

Inside, the painted dome, pendentives, and walls leave a strong impression. This is the work of one family, emphasizes guide Sira. For two centuries, members of the Hovnatanian family opened their wallets when painting was required here.

At the centre stands the altar, which recalls Gregory's vision, situated precisely at the spot of the divine revelation. Believers kneel there to kiss the Bible and the Armenian cross.

Attending Sunday mass is no small matter for a devout Armenian. One must fast a day in advance and isolate oneself a bit to establish better contact with God. Before the mass, there is a personal conversation with the priest. During the service, the priest will then pronounce a form of public forgiveness of sins. There is no individual confession like in the Catholic Church.

They are more familiar with fasting days than anyone else – fasting is required both on Tuesdays and Fridays. If a feast day falls on a fasting day, it is moved. Annually, the Catholicos blesses nature at the end of August. Until that happens, a good believer should not eat grapes.

In a small museum, you can admire the famous spear. Or more precisely, just a copy of it. The only true Holy Lance is located in the official residence of the Catholicos. However, both St. Peter's Basilica in Rome and the Hofburg in Vienna also claim to possess the one true Holy Lance.

 

At the centre stands the altar, which recalls Gregory's vision, situated precisely at the spot of the divine revelation

Geometric ornaments adorn the exterior walls of the cathedral, interspersed with figurative elements – a figure of Christ, an eagle, a man with a mustachioed face. The latter may seem like a banal portrait, but it is said that the cathedral owes its survival to this very image. When Nadir Shah – the Persian version of Napoleon – was about to destroy Etchmiadzin, the monks pointed out that the figure bore a striking resemblance to him. According to legend, this resemblance deterred him from laying waste to the site.

Continuing our journey north through the province of Aragatsotn, which translates to land at the foot of Aragats, we can indeed see the four peaks of Aragats appearing on the horizon. This volcano reaches a height of 4 095 meters, making it the tallest mountain in Armenia.

The Ararat and Aragats are only ninety kilometres apart, yet there has always been rivalry between the two peaks. They continually quarrelled over which of them was the more beautiful. Ultimately, Ararat emerged as the victor. Jealous, Aragats uttered a curse – snow would always cover Ararat, rendering its beauty unseen. Ararat could not let that go unpunished. So it took revenge with a counter-curse – Aragats would forever weep with jealousy. And so it happened. A lake at the foot of Aragats collects its tears.

 

Aruch – Cathedral of Saint Gregory

Bare walls exposed to the elements. A dome that has long since vanished. Grass sprouting between the floor tiles. It’s clear that the Cathedral of Saint Gregory in Aruch once experienced better days. It's a pity, as this was one of the largest early Christian churches in Armenia. It was likely built between 660 and 670.

 

It’s a rigid basilica, but in the central dome you can unmistakably see the beginnings of the pointed towers that later characterized Armenian churches

What makes it particularly fascinating is its architecture. The building still exhibits all the characteristics of the rigid basilicas of classical antiquity, but in the central dome, you can unmistakably see the beginnings of the pointed towers with ring-shaped substructure that later characterized Armenian churches. Thus, it represents a transitional type.

The small stone altar has proven indestructible over the centuries. For some reason, two dozen faded religious portraits are displayed in a half circle. In the weathered frescoes against the wall of the apse, you can barely recognize the faces of four apostles with great effort.

 

Aruch – Caravanserai

Just a stone's throw away lie the ruins of a caravanserai. Aruch was not always as insignificant as it is today. In the 13th century, it was located on an important trade route. The dilapidated building has three aisles. In the centre, the pack animals would spend the night, while the merchants occupied the niches on the sides.

Despite its dilapidated state, the ruins are still valued for their acoustics

Talin – Cathedral

Half an hour later, we arrive at the cathedral of Talin. This one also dates back to the seventh century, but it is perhaps in even worse condition than the one in Aruch – both the dome and a significant part of the roof are missing. This has been the case since 1840 when an earthquake wreaked havoc here.

Despite its dilapidated state, the ruins are still valued for their acoustics. Sira mentions that DVDs are even recorded here, partly due to the impressive acoustics and partly because of the unique atmosphere of the space.

 

Cathedral and tombstones

Dome structure

This building also still shows features of the ancient basilica. But it clearly has a floor plan in the shape of a cross. It appears that a synthesis between old and new architectural styles was achieved here. Notable are the many windows, which were not common at the time. Among the ruins, one of the oldest Armenian manuscripts from the 8th century has been discovered.

 

Talin – Church of the Mother of God

A little further stands the smaller Church of the Mother of God. It seems to have suffered less from earthquakes or invasions.

In the evening, we settle in Gyumri, the second largest city in Armenia. When the earth shook on December 11, 1988, in Spitak, Gyumri also felt the impact. An earthquake with a magnitude of 6,7 left 25 000 dead and 500 000 homeless. Aid poured in from more than 100 countries. However, even today, several thousand homeless still live in metal shacks. Sira calls it an unacceptable failure of the government, and we can only agree.

Before dinner, Sira takes us on a short walk through the city, as the barbershop on Gayistraat is a must-see, she insists. It claims to be the oldest barbershop in Gyumri, established in 1941 – over three-quarters of a century old. One of the barbers adds to that, being 84 years old himself.

Whether those sockets were ever renovated, we want to know. Yes, is the proud answer, in 1980

Gyumri – Barber shop (1941)

Everything exudes the atmosphere of the 1940s, with wooden walls, large round mirrors, eleven antique barber chairs, and matching sinks. Five hairdressers wield the heavy German-made clippers with great flair. Finger-thick black cords connect the devices to pre-war wall sockets. Whether those sockets were ever renovated, we want to know. Yes, is the proud answer, in 1980.

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Friday, July 21 | Gyumri – Marmashen – Bavra

When Tsarist Russia was in control, the city was called Alexandropol. After Lenin's death in 1924, the Soviet Russians renamed it Leninakan. It wasn't until 1990 that Gyumri regained its original name after a century and a half.

Strange, isn't it, how the Georgians can't seem to keep the Russians at bay, while the Armenians call on those same Russians for help

Just ten kilometres from the city centre lies the border with Turkey. As a result, Gyumri remains a garrison town, though it’s Russian forces stationed here. The 102nd military base of the Russian Transcaucasian troops is located in Gyumri. It's an uncomfortable situation for Armenia, but with Turkey so close, they prefer to be cautious. Strange, isn't it, how the Georgians can't seem to keep the Russians at bay, while the Armenians call on those same Russians for help.

 

Gyumri

Dark houses built from black tuff stone reflect the gloomy architectural style of the Tsarist period. Toward the end of the 19th century, Armenians began alternating the dark stone layers with red tuff stone. This gave rise to the distinctive red-and-black striped facades, which have become a hallmark of Gyumri's architectural identity.

The Armenians lost the battle of Avayrar. Everyone agrees on that. Except the Armenians

Gyumri – Cinema Hall October

Freedom Square – Equestrian Statue of Vardan Mamikonian

A prominent equestrian statue dominates the large Freedom Square. Holding a cross in one hand and a sword in the other, Vardan Mamikonian exudes an air of defiance and valour. He is celebrated as a hero, saint, and martyr by Armenians, as he led them in 451 during the Battle of Avarayr against the Persians.

While it is universally agreed that the Armenians lost the Battle of Avarayr, the Armenians themselves hold a different perspective. In a way, they argue, the battle indirectly secured their survival as Christians. The Persians aimed to convert the Armenians to Zoroastrianism, fearing that their Christian faith kept them under the influence of their archenemy, Rome. The Armenians, naturally, resisted such a conversion and rose up in rebellion, led by Vardan Mamikonian. Despite their valiant efforts, they were ultimately defeated at Avarayr.

However, at the same time, the Council of Chalcedon – today’s Kadıköy – had made its famous declaration about the dual nature of Christ, which the Armenians found entirely unacceptable. Soon after, they found themselves at odds with the rest of the Christian world, much to the delight of the Persians. In the end, the Persians allowed the Armenians to remain Christian, achieving their original goal of weakening Armenian ties to Rome. Thus, the Armenian Christian identity was preserved. Their defeat became their victory.

 

Gyumri – Church of the Holy Saviour

At the far end of the square, a towering crane looms over the Church of the Holy Saviour. The building, made of red and black tuff stone, is currently undergoing restoration. It suffered significant damage during the earthquake, leaving it in need of extensive repairs.

 

Gyumri – Church of the Seven Wounds of the Holy Mother of God

The Church of the Seven Wounds of the Holy Mother of God was more fortunate. Even on a weekday, believers frequently stop by, mostly elderly women but also younger people. Inside the church, it's noticeably busier than in the otherwise quiet streets.

 

 

Sira has one last gem in store for us before we turn our backs on Armenia for good – the little Marmashen Monastery. However, the unpaved road leading to this hidden treasure is not suitable for our bus.

So, shortly after nine, we board a marshrutka, a popular form of public transport in the shape of minibuses. In our case, it’s a rust bucket on wheels, with Andranik behind the wheel. Apparently, upon realizing what kind of passengers he was taking on, he hurriedly splashed some water around in a futile attempt to make the vehicle presentable. Gingerly, we step through puddles of water on the metal floor to reach our seats. Pictures of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary are everywhere – on the dashboard, against the window, even stuck to the ceiling.

 

Marmashen Monastery

Soon, the dome of a church emerges below in the valley of the Akhuryan River. It's an unusual location, as Armenian monasteries are typically perched high in the mountains. As we descend, two more women board the marshrutka. That’s how it goes with these minibuses – you hop on and off wherever you like.

Both women are looking to earn a little extra at the monastery. One sells her homemade crafts, the other one uses her knowledge of English to her advantage and shows visitors around the monastery. She turns out to be a namesake of our guide Sira, they both conclude with a giggle.

 

 

Our Sira isn’t one to step on someone else’s toes, so she lets Sira II take the lead. That turns out to be a smart move, especially since the main church is closed. Sira II pulls out her phone and quickly summons the man with the key.

A spoilsport, that's not what our guide Sira wants to be. So Sira II gets the floor. That turns out to be a smart move, especially since the main church is closed. Sira II only has to get out her mobile phone to summon the man with the key.

Sira II begins her tour by simply quoting the information panel. Between 986 and 1029, Prince Vahram Pahlavuni had the monastery built. Beyond that, however, she doesn't have much to say about the site. That's not what our guide Sira expected. She discreetly gives her would-be colleague a tip and takes over from her.

The monastery, known as Marmashen, is likely a distortion of Marmara, the island famous in antiquity for its white marble. Yet you’ll search in vain for any marble here. The main church, dedicated to St. Stephen, is built from pink tuff stone on a foundation of basalt.

The tower is striking. Instead of tapering to a sharp point, it features a conical roof with pleated shapes – it almost resembles a half-opened umbrella

Marmashen – St. Stephens church

This church is still in use today, as evidenced by the curtain and the image of the Virgin Mary inside. An inscription on the exterior reminds us that the church was consecrated in 1029. We can identify the typical niches that help protect the structure against earthquakes. What stands out the most is the small tower. Instead of tapering to a sharp point like many Armenian church towers, it features a conical roof with pleated shapes – it almost resembles a half-opened umbrella.

 

St. Stephens church

Little remains of the adjacent Church of the Holy Mother of God. Even less is left of the round church building from the 7th century – people don’t even know its name. Only the little St. Peter's Church has more or less survived – small, but charming. Too bad we're not allowed in.

In those times, monasteries were more than just religious centres; they served as crucial links in the defence against invasions

In those times, monasteries were more than just religious centres; they served as crucial links in the defence against invasions. However, this didn’t help much. The Mongols invaded this area no less than fifteen times between 1220 and 1403. Adding to that were several visits from Kurds, Seljuks, and Ottomans, along with four earthquakes, making it a wonder that so many buildings still stand here.

 

Akhuryan River, khachkars

A path leads to the cliff wall above the Akhuryan River. We find a few graves and a solitary khachkar. A few hundred meters downstream, there’s a small dam. The Turkish border is just five kilometres away. A kind old man has picked tiny green apples for us. It’s completely unjustified that we leave Armenia with such a sour taste.

At half past ten, we arrive at the spot where our driver Arman has been waiting for us with his bus. Another half hour later, we reach Bavra, a border village situated more than 2 200 meters above sea level.

 

On our way to the border of Georgia

Our Georgian driver, Jimmy, is waiting for us in a comfortable Mercedes bus. Despite his name, Jimmy doesn’t speak English. The luggage is loaded on board, and we bid farewell to Arman and Sira. A kilometre and a half further on, passport control awaits us. First, we go through Armenian customs, and then we walk with our bags to the Georgian side. Just over twenty minutes later, the paperwork is complete, and we reconnect with our Georgian guide, Rati, who took us to Sadakhlo last Sunday.

The luggage goes back on board, and soon after, Jimmy accelerates – as far as that’s possible on the wafer-thin asphalt that has not been spared by the seasons.

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Jaak Palmans
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Christmas child among Kalashnikovs