Illuminator in a dark pit

Armenia | Anno 2017

 

Monday, July 17 | Dilijan – Lake Sevan – Yeghegnadzor

Tuesday, July 18 | Yeghegnadzor – Khor Virap

 

 

Monday, July 17 | Dilijan – Lake Sevan – Yeghegnadzor

Goshavank is our first destination today, a monastery about twenty kilometres east of Dilijan. One of the top ten destinations in Armenia, according to our guide Sira. That sounds promising. With our driver Arman at the wheel of the Mercedes Sprinter 311 CDI, we hit the road at full speed. Hopefully, our bus troubles are now behind us.

 

That their country is so mountainous is entirely the Armenians' own fault, Sira humbly admits

That their country is so mountainous is entirely the Armenians' own fault, Sira humbly admits. When God was assigning each nation their portion of the world, the Armenians weren’t even present – they were busy drinking. It wasn’t until they realized they had been left empty-handed that they begged God to give them a piece of land. He had no choice but to assign them the place where all the leftover stones were.

Speaking of stones, Armenian noses are like stones. If you put people of different nationalities together, you can easily pick out the Armenians – just look for the angular noses in the middle of their faces. That’s not us saying it, that’s Sira. A large nose can even become a source of pride, as there is a yearly competition for the largest proboscis.

Another Armenian tradition that Sira is proud of is toasting. It's extremely popular but bound by strict rules. The first toast must always be made to the host. Then come the parents, followed by the deceased. Only after that can you toast to anyone else who deserves it. And there are many. In a friendly gathering, toasting can easily take up an hour. Especially when it’s time to say goodbye, the toasting can drag on endlessly. Someone always remembers a person who was overlooked, and everyone rushes back inside to raise their glass once again.

 

Armenian monasteries are known for being situated in stunning locations. Goshavank certainly lives up to that reputation

Meanwhile, Arman guides us upstream through the Getik Valley. We can’t but notice that gas pipelines always run above ground. Typically, they hover about a meter above the ground, but whenever they cross a driveway or a side road, they rise three to four meters into the air. Hideous, but still the best option, Sira defends the unsightly pipes. Because during earthquakes, the pipes have more flexibility, and if breaks do occur, the leaks are easier to detect.

 

Goshavank Monastery

Armenian monasteries are known for being situated in stunning locations. Goshavank certainly lives up to that reputation. As we walk through the impressive scenery towards the narthex, we are greeted by a life-sized copper statue of a seated monk. From beneath his dark cloak, his piercing eyes seem to bore into us. In his left hand, he holds a scale, a symbol of justice. An open book rests on his lap.

The book on his lap is the penal code that he himself wrote

Mkhitar Gosh

Entrance to the church building

This is Mkhitar Gosh. The book on his lap is the penal code that he himself wrote, which would later be used in Cilicia, Greece, and Poland. When this monastery was reduced to rubble by an earthquake in 1188, he oversaw its reconstruction a few years later. Hence the name Goshavank, meaning Monastery of Gosh. Previously, the monastery was called Nor Getik.

Recently, the monastery has been partially restored. Interestingly, it was a Muslim from the United Arab Emirates who provided the funding for the restoration. His motives remain shrouded in mystery.

Between the pillars of the square narthex, a few women run a small stall selling liturgical items. On an arch, the name of the architect is inscribed. He worked here from his early youth until old age, the inscription tells us.

 

Church of the Holy Mother of God

The Church of the Holy Mother of God is still in use. This is evident from the presence of an image of the Holy Virgin and a curtain that can be drawn to separate the choir, as we have come to understand. On the small stone altar, the ritual objects are set out, ready for use, as if the service could begin at any moment. Calligraphic texts adorn the side walls and the walls of the choir from top to bottom.

 

Church of the Holy Mother of God – Altar

The same goes for the smaller Church of St. Gregory. The inscriptions date back to the 13th century. Most of them are adorned with carmine red paint made from the cochineal insect. They provide all sorts of information about the building, historical events, and earthquakes. However, the clever monks also hid coded language within these inscriptions, containing references to places where the monastery's treasures were hidden. Only monks can decipher these codes.

 

Church of St. Gregory – Inscriptions

Just around the corner, Sira shows us one of the most beautiful khachkars in Armenia. It's called Aseghnagorts, meaning carved with a needle. This nickname perfectly reflects how finely and meticulously this stone was carved around 1291 – it’s essentially lacework in stone.

At the centre is a crucifix symbolically connecting heaven and earth, with an eight-armed rosette below. Geometric and floral ornaments surround the entire piece. However, you won’t find any element repeated identically, as that would imply perfection. And perfection, as we all know, is reserved for God.

 

Three-storey bell tower

A true innovation for its time was the bell tower. Originally, it had three floors, with a library on the ground floor and a church on the first floor. Now that the stairs and ceilings are gone, it's hard to imagine how it once looked.

It's easier to picture from the outside. We can immediately recognize the three layers in the facade structure. But what stands out even more is the lush vegetation on the walls and roof. Up there, it almost looks like a small forest. Clearly, the restorers still have a lot of work ahead of them.

As old as the monastery is, so is the walnut tree behind the bell tower – 800 years old. It's a wishing tree. If you make a wish here, it will always come true, according to Sira. We make the wish that all our future wishes may be fulfilled.

 

A game of narde under the trees

A game of narde under the trees – that’s all the men in the square across from the monastery complex need. The board game closely resembles backgammon, but the rules are different. The game is taken seriously, and our presence hardly distracts the players.

 

 

Chess is also very popular in this country. In the 1960s, Armenian Tigran Petrosian was the world champion, and Garry Kasparov – considered by some to be the greatest chess player of all time – also has Armenian blood in his veins.

Chess is a mandatory subject in schools, alongside subjects like English and Russian

Chess is actually a mandatory subject in schools, alongside subjects like English and Russian. Recently, compulsory education was extended to twelve years. Most children start primary school at the age of six. This is particularly important for boys, as if all goes well, they can complete their secondary education before starting their mandatory two-year military service at the age of eighteen.

 

Haghartsin Monastery

Once again, it’s a long drive through the Haghartsin Valley that brings us to the monastery of the same name. The name means birthplace of the wildcat, but it could also mean game of the eagle, as a legend suggests that an eagle flew overhead during the monastery's consecration. No one knows for certain, but Sira definitely favours the second hypothesis.

 

Haghartsin Monastery

This monastery has also recently undergone renovations. It was an Islamic sheikh from the same United Arab Emirates who pledged five million dollars for the project. During a visit, his wife was so impressed by this monastery that he was willing to invest a substantial amount.

 

Haghartsin Monastery with refectory (left)

A beautiful renovation, you might say. So beautiful that it no longer feels beautiful. As we stroll between the ultra-clean buildings, we can’t shake the impression of sterility.

Heavy wooden tables and chairs remind us of the original function of the centuries-old refectory

Refectory

A centuries-old refectory with built-in underfloor heating is something we haven't seen often. Heavy wooden tables and chairs remind us of its original purpose. Two imposing pillars support the roof, and sunlight only filters in through two domes. A photo of Karekin II, the current Catholicos, hangs on the wall. He serves as the pope for the ten million believers of the Armenian Apostolic Church.

 

Lighting candles

Not the most important, but the oldest church in the complex is St. Gregory's Church. In the narthex, believers are busy lighting candles. A steep, narrow staircase leads to the tiny chapel, which is much smaller than the narthex. On the stone altar, a cross and two candles are displayed, but the chapel is no longer in use.

One of the pillars in the narthex has a surprise in store. A round stone cover that perfectly follows the shape of the pillar can be removed. In the hollow space behind it, the monks used to hide manuscripts and other valuables.

The main church, the Church of the Holy Mother of God, is still in use. However, the narthex suggests otherwise, as it is completely destroyed and only partially restored. From here, a tunnel is said to have once existed, serving as an escape route for the monks in case of danger.

Strange figures they are, with almond-shaped eyes, richly adorned garments, and well-groomed beards

Eastern facade…

…image of the presumed founders of the monastery.

High against the eastern wall of the church, Sira points out a remarkable sculpture. It depicts two monks, with a model of the church between them, above which a bird hovers. Strange figures they are, with almond-shaped eyes, richly adorned garments, and well-groomed beards – not exactly what one would expect from monks. They may be the founders or financiers of the church. The bird is thought to represent the eagle from the legend.

Alongside it is the tomb monument of Smbat and Gagik, the two princes we learned about yesterday as the financiers of the monasteries of Haghpat and Sanahin.

A wishing tree that can't even wish for itself to be spared from lightning isn’t one we can trust

Apse

Wishing tree, St. Gregory's Church

Here, too, an 800-year-old walnut tree serves as a wishing tree. However, a lightning strike several years ago brought that promising career to an end. A wishing tree that can't even wish for itself to be spared from lightning isn’t one we can trust.

As we head back to Dilijan, Sira praises Armenian export products, including melons and apricots – naturally the best in the world. Armenian wine and brandy are also noteworthy. In terms of quality, Armenian brandy is by no means inferior to French cognac.

One man who would know was Winston Churchill, who was fond of Armenian brandy. Admittedly, says Sira, the anecdotes that have been handed down may not be very reliable. Nevertheless, it is believed that he ordered 250 to 300 bottles of Armenian brandy annually for personal use.

This almost led to a diplomatic incident. Stalin, never one to shy away from one deportation or another, had Churchill's regular brandy supplier provided with a one-way ticket to Siberia. A new supplier was found, but he could not match the high quality. This led to a personal intervention from Churchill to Stalin to rectify the situation.

Like sharp daggers, five white structures rise above the trees in the valley below

Old Dilijan – Sharambeyan Street

Monument – 50 years of the Soviet Republic of Armenia

This brings us to Sharambeyan Street, in an area known as Old Dilijan. Here, a certain Tufenkian – a wealthy Armenian American, according to Sira – has had a group of traditional houses restored. In their place, there are now a hotel, restaurants, and shops featuring traditional crafts. A woodcarving workshop proudly displays a photo of the Peace Corps Holiday Tree with the Clintons at the White House, as it was in this workshop that the wooden decorations for that tree were carved.

 

Potter

Woodcarver

Like sharp daggers, five white structures rise above the trees in the valley below. Erected in 1970, this monument reminds us that Armenia had already been a reluctant part of the USSR for fifty years at that time. Each of the five daggers represents a decade. Such subtle symbolism leaves us in silence.

 

 

Just before noon, the M4 takes us southward over the mountains. It's no problem for our new driver and our new bus, this Sevan Pass, especially since the 2,3 km long Dilijan Tunnel significantly shortens the climb. This tunnel was completed in 2003 thanks to a donation from – once again – a wealthy Armenian American.

As we leave the tunnel behind, we see nothing but barren slopes. There’s no trace left of the forests that spread across the northern side of the mountains.

Lake Sevan is now coming into view. Sira calls it one of the highest freshwater lakes in the world, which we take with a grain of salt, as 1 900 meters is not particularly high. Nonetheless, with an area of 1 200 km²; the lake deserves our respect. Twenty-eight rivers flow into it, but only one, the Hrazdan, is responsible for its drainage. This is more than sufficient, as 90 % of the water evaporates before it can decide where to flow out.

A piece of heaven that has fallen to earth, so described Maxim Gorky the Lake Sevan back in the day

A piece of heaven that has fallen to earth, so described the Soviet writer Maxim Gorky the Lake Sevan back in the day. Unfortunately, not all of his contemporaries shared this view. Soviet irrigation projects caused the water level to drop by nineteen meters over the years.

Nevertheless, fishing remains an important source of income here. Nowhere else will you find the Sevan trout. However, it has had a tough time, as the Soviets introduced some powerful competitors that have almost completely displaced the Sevan trout.

Fish sellers along the roadside boast their wares with outstretched arms, demonstrating just how large the fish they have for sale really are. As you approach within buying distance, the space between their hands visibly decreases.

At least, that’s what the folklore suggests. Because modernity has also made its entrance here. Life-sized cardboard figures have replaced the real fishmongers. They stand motionless, with outstretched arms made of cardboard.

Once, there was an island in the lake with a monastery on it. That is long gone. The receding water has turned the island into a peninsula. Today, you can simply take a bus there. Only the last part, 230 steps up, you have to do on foot

Originally, there was a pagan complex here. In 305, a monastery and the first church were built. Since then, Sevanavank, as this monastery complex is called, has been closely linked to the founding history of Armenian Christianity.

Both churches are still standing after eleven centuries

Sevanavank – Church of the Holy Apostles (left) and Church of the Holy Mother of God (right)

The first church was destroyed by an earthquake, but in the 9th century, new impetus emerged. The Catholicos managed to extract sufficient funds from a certain Princess Mariam for the construction of two churches made of black tuff stone – the Church of the Holy Mother of God and the Church of the Holy Apostles. Both churches still stand today.

This led to the establishment of an important monastic centre. Hundreds of Armenian manuscripts were copied and illustrated here. For Armenian Christians, it became a significant pilgrimage site; visiting Sevanavank three times was equivalent to visiting Jerusalem once.

The narthex of the Church of the Holy Mother of God has been almost completely destroyed. A few dozen khachkars stand forlornly, loosely propped against the walls.

A Christ with braids – we had never seen that before

Sevanavank – Church of the Holy Mother of God

Khachkar – Christ with braids

But it is inside the church that we come across an ancient and highly unusual khachkar. Central to this cross-stone is an image of Jesus Christ, arms raised in a blessing gesture. A Christ with braids – we had never seen that before. His image is surrounded by biblical scenes – Adam and Eve, an ox and a donkey, several angels with six wings, and God the Father forming the familiar symbol with his thumb and ring finger.

For the first time, we notice a wooden wall that separates the choir from the rest of the church. This reminds us of an iconostasis, although that is not a common feature in Armenian churches.

 

Sevanavank – Church of the Holy Apostles – Carved door

Apse

We climb higher and enjoy the view. It is truly magnificent. As far as the eye can see, the heavenly blue lake stretches out, surrounded by rolling hills. With their tuff stone walls and archetypal pointed towers, the churches seem to radiate eternal tranquillity – at least as far as we can abstract from the dozens of tourists scurrying around like ants between the buildings.

 

Lake Sevan

At the Ashot Erkat restaurant, we are served the famous trout, freshly caught from the lake. Then, we head south to the sounds of Aram Khachaturian's Sabre Dance. Sira wants to introduce us to this aspect of Armenian culture as well. One musical luminary after another passes by – Komitas, Charles Aznavour, Sayat-Nova.

The cemetery boasts the largest collection of khachkars in the world, with more than 800 stones

Noratus Cemetery

The flat road takes us along the shore of the lake to the peaceful coastal village of Noratus. Here, it’s the cemetery we are interested in. It boasts the largest collection of khachkars in the world, with more than 800 stones.

However, that hasn't always been the case. A quarter-century ago, you could find over 2 700 khachkars in Julfa. Julfa is located in Azerbaijan. Coincidence or not, shortly after their defeat in Nagorno-Karabakh, the Azerbaijanis began to demolish the cemetery in Julfa. They vehemently deny this, but satellite images indicate otherwise.

It is both unsettling and moving to see all these reddish stones in Noratus, some more weathered than others, standing amidst tall, overgrown grass and colourful wildflowers. On the eastern side, grain fields flank the forest of stones. In the distant west, we glimpse the partially snow-capped peaks of the Gegham Mountains. Closer to us, we spot old women trying to sell their knitted goods.

Legend has it that the villagers of Noratus once outsmarted an enemy army by dressing all those cross-stones in uniforms, making it seem as though a massive army was waiting to ambush the enemy.

Sira promptly leads us to what she calls the most important khachkar of the cemetery. Until 2006, this cross-stone was located in the Louvre in Paris. The sun and moon – two pagan symbols – flank the cross.

Until 2006, this cross-stone was located in the Louvre in Paris. The sun and moon – two pagan symbols – flank the cross

Khachkar with sun and moon next to the cross

Khachkars

Another remarkable stone is one depicting a wedding ceremony. You might not think of this as a typical theme for a gravestone, but fate had it that on the very day of this wedding, an enemy army invaded the country and slaughtered the wedding guests. On the cenotaph, we can see the ill-fated bride and groom in the upper left corner, the festive table in the upper right, and one of the mounted warriors depicted at the bottom.

 

Cenotaph for unfortunate wedding guests

Tombstone for a farmer

One of the village priests, Ter Avetisi Hovakimiants, must have been a very special person. And this has nothing to do with his unusual name. His grave is filled with glass shards. If you want to get your fears under control, you sprinkle a liquid from a glass bottle onto his grave and then smash the bottle into pieces. At least, that’s what local belief says.

Believers who want to shake off all fear need only to scatter some shards over his grave

Tomb of Ter Avetisi Hovakimiants

Tombstone

For our village priest feared nothing or nobody – except God. To prove this, he had himself buried alive at his own request. Believers who want to shake off all fear need only to scatter some shards over his grave. He will then watch over them to ensure nothing happens to them.

Nowadays, it is customary in Armenia to keep the deceased's body at home after a death. Family and friends come to pay their respects, after which the body is buried. Subsequently, the men take a sip of vodka at the gravesite. After seven days, they return to the grave, and again after forty days – without vodka, as we understand it. Out of reverence, one is also expected to abstain from all festivities during the first Christmas and the first New Year after the death.

 

Steppe-like landscape

Around half past three, we head further south. The M10 now takes us into the Armenian highlands. The undulating, barren grassland occasionally reminds one of the Central Asian steppes. From time to time, a herd appears in view – cows and goats being herded by a shepherd on horseback.

 

Selimpas, Jeghegisvallei

It is half past five when we reach the summit of the 2,410-meter-high Selim Pass over the Vardenis Mountains. Hardly have we begun our descent into the impressive Jeghegis Valley when a peculiar structure, partially embedded in the windy slope, comes into view. This is Orbelian's Caravanserai, built in 1332 to provide a safe resting place for merchants crossing the formidable pass.

You wouldn’t really call this a five-star accommodation. The roof is partially covered with grass. In the long hall with niches on either side, it is chilly and pitch dark. Light only enters through two tiny openings in the ceiling. In the niches, travellers found shelter for the night. They were welcomed with a stone-carved message saying You who stay here, remember us in your prayers.

The presence of the caravanserai shows that Armenia was on the Silk Road

Orbelian's caravanserai

Caravanserai

Armen and Anna

Grapes, peaches, apples, apricots... you name it. If it contains sugar, Armen will turn it into vodka

We have this desolate place all to ourselves. Or maybe not quite. In front of the caravanserai, a middle-aged couple has parked their car. They’ve attached a makeshift canopy to it, under which they are selling tourist trinkets.

Appearances can be deceiving. Upon closer inspection, we learn that they mainly have homemade strong liquor. Their names, it turns out, are Armen and Anna. They have various types of vodka – made from grapes, peaches, apples, apricots... you name it. If it contains sugar, Armen will turn it into vodka.

It’s hard for us to resist, especially since the jovial Armen, with glass and bottle in hand, insists so generously. A comparative study is needed – how different do all those vodkas taste? That Armen distils his vodkas up to 60 % alcohol is hard to believe, but the apricot vodka manages to tempt us into making a purchase.

 

Jeghegis Valley

Just before five, we continue our trip. The presence of the caravanserai shows that Armenia was on the Silk Road, according to Sira. This suggests that Armenia must have had much to offer economically. For example, the carmine red dye from the cochineal insect was highly sought after everywhere.

Even the oldest carpet in the world from the tomb of a Scythian prince turns out to be of Armenian origin

In addition, there were the Armenian carpets. They distinguish themselves from their Iranian competitors by being woven with a double knot. Even the oldest carpet in the world turns out to be of Armenian origin. In 1949, it was found in the tomb of a Scythian prince in the Pazyryk Valley in Siberia, more than 700 km southeast of Novosibirsk. German scientists concluded that it must be 2 300 years old and originated from Urartu. In other words, Armenian. The carpet is now proudly displayed in the Hermitage in St. Petersburg.

 

On our way to Yeghegnadzor

Horses were also bred here. This might seem strange for a mountainous country like Armenia. However, the small horses with relatively short legs and long bodies were trained as real warhorses. They were so highly prized that Persia, when it had control over Armenia, imposed a tax in the form of horses. Each year, Armenia had to deliver ten thousand horses.

 

On our way to Yeghegnadzor

Shortly after half past five, we enter Yeghegnadzor, a sleepy provincial town not far from the Iranian border, about 1 200 meters above sea level. The Soviets once called this place Mikoyan, after the infamous Bolsheviks we learned about yesterday.

Suddenly, Arman stops in front of an anonymous Soviet-style block building. That this would be a hotel seems to be a well-kept secret, as no sign reveals the true nature of the building. Yet, this is Hotel Arpa, where a very friendly staff is expecting us. The rooms are outdated, but otherwise, everything is in place, including air conditioning and a refrigerator. Even booking.com is aware of this place’s existence, as their sticker on the window gives it a rating of 8,9.

Architecturally, Yeghegnadzor still bears the weight of the Soviet legacy

A short walk through the dusty streets confirms what we suspected – architecturally, Yeghegnadzor still bears the weight of the Soviet legacy, although the modest church bears witness to a more illustrious past.

Back at the hotel we immerse ourselves in the homely atmosphere, with dishes from mother's kitchen – chicken soup, tabbouleh with mushrooms.

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Tuesday, July 18 | Yeghegnadzor – Khor Virap

Vayots Dzor, Valley of Sorrows, is the name of the province of which Yeghegnadzor is the capital. It owes this name to the many earthquakes that have plagued this rugged mountainous region.

However, the area is mainly known for its agricultural products, particularly cheese. Each year, a festival is dedicated to it. This isn't all that unusual, as Armenians are not shy about organizing annual festivals for just about anything – beer, wine, brandy, chocolate, and even watermelon.

 

Gnishik Valley

Just before nine we leave by bus, but it is a false start. Because somewhere in a room a tablet has been left behind. A phone call from the hotel is needed to alert us to this. Faithfully, they stand at the doorstep, waiting for the returning bus, tablet in hand.

The road we follow through the Arpa Valley leads toward Iran. Quite a few Armenian Christians live there. They don’t have it too bad, as the relationship between Iran and Armenia is considered fairly good. Still, they often slip away for a while, because in Armenia, they can drink alcohol freely, and women are allowed to take off their chador.

 

Gnishik Valley

Moreover, Armenia maintains good relations with both the USA, Russia, and Iran. No other country can match that. They owe this primarily to the lobbying efforts of Armenians in the diaspora. These efforts promote mutual relations while also keeping the memory of the genocide alive. Over twenty countries have officially recognized the Armenian genocide – much to Turkey's dismay. Notable figures who have contributed to this recognition are given appropriate rewards. For instance, George Clooney, the Pope, and Kim Kardashian – bien étonnés de se trouver ensemble – are allowed to cherish a precious Armenian carpet in their homes as a token of thanks.

Meanwhile, we are approaching the Areni-1 cave. In 2008, the oldest leather shoe in the world was found there – 5 500 years old. This dethroned Ötzi's leather shoe, as it is only 5 300 years old. The Armenian shoe is made from a single piece of leather from a pig or an ox and is still in excellent condition. Wine barrels have also been discovered, along with the skeleton of a young woman and children. The cave itself is not accessible, as excavations are still ongoing. However, we will have the opportunity to personally admire the shoe later at the Historical Museum of Yerevan.

This dethroned Ötzi's leather shoe, as it is only 5 300 years old

Canyon in the Gnishik Valley

Arpa River, Areni-1 cave

Gradually we enter the deeply carved Gnishik Valley. It is only ten kilometres long, yet it is described as one of the most beautiful roads in Armenia.

 

Gnishik Valley

We know that Armenian monasteries boast not only their architecture but also their unique locations. However, we readily admit that Noravank takes this concept to a whole new level compared to what we have encountered so far. High on the rocks, the monastery awaits us in the morning sun. The location is simply phenomenal.

 

High on the rocks, the monastery awaits us in the morning sun. The location is simply phenomenal

Architecturally, Noravank beautifully complements this impressive environment. On the façade of the Church of the Holy Mother of God, we recognize the eagle with the lamb in its claws – a symbol of Armenia's power. Again, it is a building with three levels: a mausoleum at the bottom, a church above it, and a bell tower at the very top. Beautiful tympanums adorn the doors – at the top, Christ with the apostles Peter and Paul; at the bottom, a Pietà flanked by two angels.

 

Noravank Monastery

To reach the church, you must climb a staircase. Very unusually, it is located on the outside of the building. It is a particularly narrow and steep staircase, with high steps and no form of railing. Climbing up is no laughing matter, and coming down is even more challenging. The monks seem to want to convey that approaching God is not easy, and leaving Him once you have found Him is even more difficult.

 

Lighting candles

Eagle with the lamb, symbol of Armenia's strength

Momik, the architect of this beauty, was one of the most famous in Armenia during the 14th century. Legend has it that he fell in love with the king's daughter. The king tested him by commissioning him to build this church. He succeeded brilliantly, but the king still pushed him from his own staircase. From then on, the storyline becomes murky: some sources claim that he fell to his death, while others say he survived the fall, married the princess, and lived to be seventy. The latter seems less likely to us, as his khachkar lists 1339 as the date of death – coinciding with the year the church was built.

 

Hall of St. Stephen's Church with roof opening

King fights with lion

Various ruins remind us that earthquakes have frequently struck this area. In the reconstruction, the original building plan was not always followed. This may explain the strange structure of the narthex of the St. Stephen’s Church – no arches supported by pillars, but rather a peculiar tent-shaped dome with an opening at the top.

Very remarkable is the relief depiction in the tympanum. Depicting God the Father was unprecedented at that time. In His left hand, He holds the head of Adam, from whose mouth the Holy Spirit emerges. With His right hand, He blesses a representation of the crucifixion of Jesus. The thumb and ring finger form a closed circle. This serves as a reminder to Armenian Christians that Jesus has only one indivisible nature.

 

God the Father

Magical power of the third eye

At the front, a curtain hangs, and we recognize a portrait of the Holy Virgin. The church is thus functional. Baptisms and marriages are still performed here. In the windows, khachkars are embedded like pillars, making it more difficult for enemies to destroy them.

Around the corner, we come across the mausoleum chapel of Saint Gregory. The many small crosses on the walls refer to the donations from benefactors. A wall stone reminds us of the magical power of the third eye.

 

Tomb of Elikum III Orbelian, the king who could fight like a lion

Gnishik Valley

What makes this chapel unique are the tombstones. Normally, you would find these in the narthex, not within a church building. And these are not just any ordinary graves. One of the slabs belongs to Elikum III Orbelian, a man who could fight like a lion. This is abundantly evident from the stylized depiction of a lion on his gravestone.

 

Noravank Monastery

This chapel has only one window. It is said to be positioned in such a way that every year on August 11th, the first rays of sunlight fall on this grave. For that is the day in the year 2492 BCE when Hayk, the legendary founder of Armenia, managed to defeat the tyrant Baal in a cosmic battle.

 

Recent tombstone

Outside, we continue to enjoy the phenomenal view over the Gnishik Valley, with its steep, reddish cliff walls, its barren slopes, and far below, the patches of green that thrive by the river's waters. This setting invites a short walk through the narrowest part of the canyon. The rock walls rise almost vertically above our heads.

 

Canyon in the Gnishik Valley

Areni is said to be the place where Noah planted the first vine after the flood. This tradition continues in Areni to this day. This is not self-evident, as we are still a thousand meters above sea level. Few grapes can thrive here. One of them is – guess what – the dark Areni grape. They use it to make red and rosé wine. For white wine, they use the golden seed variety.

At the Hin Areni winery, they know all about it. In impeccable English, we are explained that they have been producing wine here for at least 6 000 years. This is evidenced by the wine barrels found alongside that ancient shoe.

Of course, Hin Areni hasn’t been operational for that long, but they have been around since 1994. Outside the city, the vineyards of the winery stretch over 32 hectares (79 acres). They have big plans, as the facilities were thoroughly renovated in 2014. Brand new stainless steel barrels gleam in the production hall.

The grapes are harvested manually. This occurs in September or October, lasting two to three weeks. But once the grapes come in, nearly everything happens automatically. The grapes are sorted, the stems are removed, they are pressed, and the grape juice goes into the stainless steel barrels for computer-controlled fermentation.

Areni is said to be the place where Noah planted the first vine after the flood

Hin Areni Winery

Next, the wine is transferred into oak barrels at a constant temperature of 16 to 17° C (61 to 62 °F). These barrels are made in Yerevan, using oak wood from the disputed Nagorno-Karabakh region. After three years, the barrels are sold to a brandy producer.

Finally, the wine is filtered twice and promptly bottled – at a rate of three bottles per minute. They proudly refer to the machine that accomplishes this as our Ferrari.

 

Fertile Ararat Valley

The end result is a fairly dry wine. What they call réserve consists of 100 % wine that has been aged in oak for three years. In the cheaper variant, only 20 % of the wine is aged in oak.

These wines are exported to Russia and Canada, but also to Europe, where Belgium even serves as a distribution centre. Just before noon, we leave Hin Areni, not without having tasted some of the reserves – a white, a pale rosé, and a red.

 

Finally, there it is. Sira almost becomes lyrical. Faintly, through the distant mist, the white-grey silhouette of Mount Ararat looms

Finally, there it is. Sira almost becomes lyrical. Faintly, through the distant mist, the white-grey silhouette of Mount Ararat looms – still over fifty kilometres away.

Silver rectangles gleam in the distance like mirrors in the sun. These are artificial lakes where fish are farmed. This is far from the only thing the fertile Ararat Valley has to offer. This triangular plain, over 200 km long, lies partly in Armenia, partly in Iran and Turkey, according to Sira. In doing so, she casually overlooks the portion of the valley that belongs to the territory of archenemy Azerbaijan.

The sun shines here for no less than 2 700 hours per year, which is over seven hours a day. As a result, the quality of the fruit here is excellent. Tobacco is grown intensively, solar energy is used extensively.

The cochineal insect, the producer of the famous carmine red dye, also thrives here. It used to be plentiful in this region, but it is now endangered. As a result, its breeding area has been moved further south.

 

On one of the hills around historic Artashat stands the monastery of Khor Virap, one of the most iconic places in Armenia

Armenia has had twelve capitals, six of which were in the Ararat Valley. Once, Artashat was one of those capitals, an important centre on the Silk Road, and the first city in the world to be developed according to a plan. And what a plan it was. The design is said to have been modeled after the eye of the king’s wife. On one of the hills around historic Artashat stands the monastery of Khor Virap, one of the most iconic places in Armenia.

Khor Virap owes its fame to King Tiridates III, though he never realized it himself. Anak, a Persian spy and distant relative of Tiridates, had managed to kill Tiridates' father. In turn, Tiridates tracked down Anak and had him and part of his family killed. All’s well that ends well, you might think. But the family feud didn’t end there.

In what seems like an ancient soap opera, Anak’s son Gregory managed to rise through the ranks of the Armenian army, eventually becoming the king’s secretary. The pagan Tiridates and the Christian Gregory got along famously, without knowing each other’s background.

That changed one day when Gregory refused to offer a flower to the pagan goddess Anahita. Tiridates was not amused. His anger only grew when courtiers exposed Gregory’s past. Immediately, Tiridates had the son of the despised Anak thrown into a deep dungeon – essentially a pit, six meters underground, teeming with snakes and scorpions. Gregory was never to be heard from again.

Thirteen years later, 37 Christian nuns walked from Rome to Armenia to spread Christianity. They had fled from Rome under the reign of Diocletian. One of them, Hripsime, caught Tiridates' passionate attention – her beauty was praised far and wide. But, as is often the case with nuns, she had no interest in marriage. Tiridates, once again, was not amused. He had all the nuns tortured and killed. Only one escaped – the saint Nino, whom we will meet next week in Georgia.

It is no surprise that Tiridates, after such unspeakable cruelty, was struck with madness – according to the most colourful version of the legend, his head transformed into that of a wild boar.

Salvation came through his sister, who had already converted to Christianity. In a dream, she was advised to seek Gregory’s help. Miraculously, he was still alive in his underground pit, albeit weak. An old woman had been secretly feeding him all those years.

In 301, Armenia became the very first Christian nation in the world

Gregory was brought to Tiridates and instantly healed him. Out of sheer gratitude, Tiridates elevated Christianity to the status of state religion. Thus, in 301, Armenia became the very first Christian nation in the world. Gregory earned the honorary title of The Illuminator for this, and Khor Virap owes its current fame to this event, as it is where the infamous dungeon is located.

A more pragmatic analysis suggests that Tiridates was at odds with the Romans at the time. As a ruler in such situations, it is crucial to have your subjects on your side. By declaring Christianity the state religion, Tiridates secured their loyalty. Christianity had already established deep roots in Armenia by that point.

Meanwhile, one of Armenia’s most iconic scenes has appeared through our window – a hill with Khor Virap perched on top and the mostly cloudless Ararat towering in the background. No landscape in Armenia is more famous than this. The thermometer reads 38 °C (100 °F), but we barely notice.

Arman drops us at the foot of the hill. We climb up along the solid defensive walls. In the distance, a military watchtower rises above the plain. The Turkish border, a mere twelve hundred meters away, almost lies at our feet. Mount Ararat, the sacred mountain of the Armenians, is thirty kilometres deep inside the land of their archenemy, Turkey.

 

Khor Virap – Church of the Holy Mother of God

The Church of the Holy Mother of God barely catches our interest. Dating back to the 17th century, it has little to offer in terms of uniqueness. It is the St. Gregory Chapel that is the star here. This chapel, built in the 7th century, stands directly above the infamous dungeon where Gregory was once imprisoned. Like a magnet it draws every visitor towards it.

 

Khachkar with bishop and model of the church

Church of the Holy Mother of God

Descending into that dungeon is a must for any true pilgrim. The same goes for the dedicated tourist, though the narrow shaft doesn't look particularly inviting. We awkwardly squeeze past the metal ladder, descending vertically – 27 steps deep – into the cramped space below.

Trdat had Gregory thrown into a deep dungeon – essentially a pit, six meters underground, teeming with snakes and scorpions

Church of the Holy Mother of God – Retable

St. Gregory's Chapel – Gregory's Dungeon

Today, there's little sign of the once inhospitable conditions. The floor is paved, and the walls are neatly lined with natural stone. Back in the day, it must have been pitch dark. If Gregory the Illuminator really stayed here for thirteen years without any source of light, he would likely have gone blind.

 

Khor Virap Monastery

Outside, we stand on a small hill, looking down at the walled monastery. In truth, it's not much to behold. It is its unique history that has transformed this monastery into a pilgrimage site, for both believers and tourists alike. However, the vast landscape and the ever-present Mount Ararat more than make up for it.

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Jaak Palmans
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The pain of a nation