Walking with rhinos

Uganda | Anno 2016

 

Tuesday, July 12 | Entebbe – Masindi

Wednesday, July 13 | Masindi – Murchison Falls National Park

Thursday, July 14 | Murchison Falls National Park

 

 

Tuesday, July 12 | Entebbe – Masindi

The rugged coastline of the immense Lake Victoria heralds our final destination. Shortly after twelve, we touch down at Entebbe International Airport, setting foot on Ugandan soil. It's a bit cloudy, but sunny and warm.

Border formalities are taken seriously here. A Health Port official meticulously inspects the stamps in our International Certificate of Vaccination, the so called Yellow Card. Without proof of vaccination against yellow fever, we won't enter this country. Immigration scrutinizes our Arrival Declaration Form and visas. We had to keep four consecutive empty pages in our passport for that. We're also subjected to a digital photo and fingerprints; there's no escaping that. Even the labels on our luggage are carefully checked.

It's exactly one o'clock when we step onto the sidewalk in front of the airport building and are greeted by Richard and David, with a refreshing breeze in the air. They will be our drivers and nature guides for almost two weeks, our mainstay in both big and small problems.

Apparently, Richard is in charge. At forty-two, unmarried, he's a bit reserved. Over time, we'll come to know him as an unparalleled naturalist, a living encyclopaedia behind the wheel. The same goes for the cheerful, talkative David, married, three children. They have two comfortable safari jeeps ready, light brown Toyota Landcruisers with seven plus one seats and a convertible roof. Looks promising.

Today's journey of over 250 km will take us to Masindi, near Murchison Falls, in the northwest corner of Uganda. It will be a long day's drive with little or nothing to see along the way. So, plenty of time to gather information about Uganda.

We soon pass the presidential palace, just a stone's throw from the airport. That's quite useful if you're the president and need to make a quick getaway during a coup. Although that's not an immediate concern for President Yoweri Museveni. He's been firmly in power for thirty years.

Ugandan flags enthusiastically flutter on poles – two sets of three horizontal bands of black, yellow, and red, with a grey crowned crane at the centre. Black for the people of the country, yellow for Africa's sunshine, and red for the blood that binds all Africans together.

Explorers had their hands full here, the newspapers were full of it

Along an extension of Lake Victoria, we drive northward. In the 1950s, Nile perch were introduced into the lake in an ill-considered attempt to boost commercial fishing. It was a straight-up catastrophe because the newcomer ruthlessly eradicated hundreds of local fish species until it became the sole ruler of the water. Nowadays, this Nile perch itself is a victim of overfishing.

It was known since ancient times that the Blue Nile originates from the Ethiopian Lake Tana. It merges with the White Nile in Khartoum. However, the exact source of the White Nile remained a mystery for a long time. In the 19th century, this question became a public obsession. Explorers had a full-time job with it, and newspapers were filled with stories about it.

It was Speke who in 1858 identified Lake Victoria as the probable source of the White Nile. But he couldn't prove it. It was Stanley who, in 1875 at Rippon Falls near Jinja, saw the White Nile flowing out of Lake Victoria.

But that wasn't the end of it. Because Lake Victoria is fed by a series of rivers. So it was important to figure out which one is the longest. This task was accomplished by someone named Waldecker in the 1930s – it was the Kagera River. To put an end to debates once and for all, Waldecker even had a stone pyramid erected to mark the source of the White Nile near Rutovu in Burundi.

From then on, everyone could rest easy. Until in 2006, an even longer tributary of the Kagera was found – it originates in the Nyungwe Forest in Rwanda. Too bad about that pyramid.

You might think it's nothing more than a historical trivia, but the search for the sources of the Nile was much more than that. Because with the explorers came the colonial powers. And they made their presence known in fertile Uganda. In Europe, they were very interested in Africa's green pearl.

Meanwhile, Richard has bypassed Kampala, and we're heading northwest. This capital area has three to four million inhabitants, while Uganda as a whole has just over 40 million. With an area of 241,038 km², the country is about the size of the United Kingdom. But almost one-fifth of it is water. On its own, Lake Victoria covers 15 % of Ugandan territory. If you only consider the mainland, you could meet an average of 202 Ugandans per square kilometre.

More than four out of five Ugandans identify themselves as Christians, with slightly more Catholics than Anglicans. Muslims make up 12 % of the population, and the rest are Hindus, Jews, and animists.

Demographically, Uganda still has its issues. Out of 1,000 babies born, 64 don't survive infancy. Yet, the population grows annually by 3.6 %. Men live an average of 52 years, women 54. Children are required to attend school, but there aren't enough teachers. A third of the population remains illiterate. The minimum daily wage doesn't get you far – 6,000 shillings, or slightly less than two euros a day. Nearly one-third of Ugandans live below the poverty line.

Bantu languages just have something with prefixes

Uganda gained its independence on October 9, 1962. It became a rather unique state, a republic composed of five kingdoms – a contradiction in terms, really. Buganda, the most powerful of these kingdoms, was allowed to give the new country its name. Additionally, there are the kingdoms of Bunyoro, Toro, and Ankole in the west, and Busoga in the east. The far north – poor, less fertile, no kingdoms – had no say in state matters. Nowadays, the powers of these kingdoms are rather limited. For example, they are allowed to establish schools and hospitals.

The names Uganda and Buganda might sound a bit confusing to us, but Bantu languages have a thing for prefixes. So, a Muganda is a person who lives in Buganda. They belong to the Baganda, speak Luganda, and practice Kiganda as a religion. On the other hand, a Munyoro lives in Bunyoro, belongs to the Banyoro, speaks Runyoro, and practices Kinyoro. A Musoga lives in Busoga and... well, you get the idea.

We smoothly head northward on the excellent, paved road through the relatively flat landscape. Gradually, the sky becomes greyer. Around half past three, the first raindrops fall from the sky. Three-quarters of an hour later, there's no rain anymore, and the road surface is even bone dry.

Those kingdoms didn't do too badly, Richard’s story about Uganda continues. In the 19th century, the region had a fairly good road network and trade flourished with the Arabs – weapons, ivory, slaves. However, the King of Buganda didn't like the increasing influence of Islam that came with it. When Europeans showed up – searching for the sources of the Nile – he saw an opportunity. He thought Christian missionaries would counterbalance Islam.

But that didn't go smoothly. Catholics and Anglicans were mainly busy quarrelling with each other, with Islam benefiting from it. Religious wars ensued, with varying degrees of success.

In the end, it was the British who managed to annex fertile Uganda and turn it into a protectorate in 1894. Not a colony like in Kenya, where tens of thousands of settlers ruled the roost. Rather, it was a protectorate where barely 140 colonists made sure enough taxes flowed to Great Britain. For the rest, the kings could carry on as before – they owed this to their solid structures.

The British wouldn't be the British if they didn't start building railways. Including one from Kampala via Nairobi to Mombasa on the Indian Ocean. Over thirty thousand Indian people were brought in to get the job done. After the work was completed, several thousand stayed in the country. They turned to what they had always been good at – trade. Soon enough, Indians largely dominated trade in Uganda.

In 1962, Uganda gained independence, with the King of Buganda becoming the first president. It's not surprising that he favoured the kingdoms. Prime Minister Milton Obote had a different view on things. In 1966, he ousted the president, dissolved the parliament, and abolished the kingdoms. It was a convenient move for him to get rid of pesky accusations about his involvement in gold smuggling.

In 1971, it was Idi Amin's turn to seize power. Like his predecessors, he faced troublesome allegations about millions of dollars disappearing from the state coffers.

Overnight, Amin expelled the hated Indians from the country. This won him support from the population, but it would backfire on him. The economy collapsed. Only through blind terror could he maintain control. Three hundred thousand Ugandans would perish, often after gruesome torture. Idi Amin became a sinister icon of atrocities worldwide.

Amin ordered his army to invade Tanzania, but even for him, that was too ambitious. In 1979, he had to flee. Milton Obote briefly returned to power, but it was Museveni who provided Uganda with the stability it deserved from 1986 onwards. In 1993, he enshrined the kingdoms in the constitution. Not that Museveni was a saint – like his predecessors, he didn't shy away from using child soldiers.

Walking with rhinos – it's quite an experience

It's almost half past five in the evening when we turn onto the dirt road to Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. Twilight is approaching rapidly, so we head out immediately with the jeeps. Ronald explains that in this park, they breed rhinos. Currently, they have eighteen of them. Twelve of which were born here. They roam freely over an area of 70 km², fenced off by an electric fence.

Once the population reaches thirty to forty rhinos, some will be transferred to other parks in Uganda. It's a long-term project because a rhino female has a gestation period of 16 months.

Trackers have already gone ahead, searching for the rhinos. They keep Ronald updated via walkie-talkies. Some dik-diks and vervet monkeys remind us that it's not just rhinos ruling the roost here. Eventually, we leave the jeeps behind and continue on foot. Ronald leads our group, with Edward bringing up the rear.

 

Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary

Walking with rhinos – it's quite an experience. Ronald reassures us that we have nothing to fear from these rhinos; they won't attack us. However, if one of them does show signs of aggression, you definitely shouldn't run. That will only trigger its hunting instinct. It will then chase after you at speeds of up to 45 km per hour. That's something you definitely want to avoid. So, the best thing to do is to stand still. If possible, stand behind a tree. And if possible, make it a thick one, concludes Ronald.

Completely reassured, we venture into the bush. Quite quickly, we come across four rhino females – Malaika, Laloyo, Waribe, and Luna. They calmly graze, completely unperturbed by our presence.

 

 

Luna was born only in April 2014 but has already grown into a sturdy lady. Laloyo and Malaika are both pregnant. Malaika has an American mother and a Kenyan father – she has that in common with Barack Obama, Edward chuckles a bit disrespectfully. These rhinos typically live to be forty to forty-five years old when allowed to roam freely. Their eyesight is quite limited, but their hearing and sense of smell are excellent.

 

 

Once fully grown, a female weighs between two to two and a half tons, while a male weighs around three tons. Maintaining such a massive body is quite a task. Every day, they graze on 150 kg of grass and drink 70 to 80 litres of water. It's not unusual for them to roam around ten kilometres a day in search of food.

White rhinos are slightly larger than their black counterparts, but there's no difference in colour – they are both grey. It's their mouths that mainly distinguish them from each other. A grazer like the white rhino benefits from a wide mouth, making the job of grazing quicker. Anyone who has ever operated a lawnmower knows this. On the other hand, a black rhino feeds on leaves plucked from trees, so a pointed snout is more useful.

Speaking of pointed snouts, Ronald briefly stops at a hole next to a small termite mound. An aardvark has been at work here, a solitary nocturnal creature. It dug this burrow at night to approach the termite mound from below and use its pointed snout and long, sticky tongue to catch tasty termites.

Newspapers were already preparing Hemingway’s obituary

It's almost seven o'clock when we continue our journey to Masindi. Soon, it's dark. The unlit road is teeming with pedestrians and cyclists who emerge seemingly out of nowhere into the headlights' glare.

Shortly after eight, we reach our destination, Masindi Hotel. This is the oldest hotel in Masindi, dating back to 1923. For years, it played a crucial role in opening up this area.

Famous people have stayed here before us. Katharine Hepburn, Humphrey Bogart, and his wife Lauren Bacall stayed here in 1951 during the filming of The African Queen. Ernest Hemingway and his wife were also accommodated here in 1954 after their second plane crash. There was even a belief in the West at the time that the writer had not survived the accident – newspapers were already preparing Hemingway’s obituary.

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Wednesday, July 13 | Masindi – Murchison Falls National Park

In a way, we should be grateful to the tsetse fly. Such was the severity of the sleeping sickness epidemic that broke out between 1907 and 1912 that an area of 13,000 km² – almost half the size of Massachusetts – had to be completely evacuated. This immediately paved the way for a nature reserve that would gradually evolve into Murchison Falls National Park, covering an area of 3,893 km² – about as large as Rhode Island.

The tsetse fly is something we should be wary of. Untreated, sleeping sickness inevitably leads to death. Despite all prevention and control efforts, there were still 9,000 deaths reported in 2010.

However, only a small percentage of tsetse flies are dangerous. They only acquire the fatal parasite when they bite an infected person or animal. Oh, the irony – the parasite that threatens vertebrate animals can only survive in the bloodstream of those vertebrate animals.

Once inside the body, the parasite manages to evade the immune system by constantly changing shape – changing its outfit, so to speak. Once it reaches the brain and the typical sleep disturbances occur, the outcome is fatal for the host – whether human or animal.

Open, windy terrain is not the favourite environment of tsetse flies. That's at least reassuring. Wearing long pants and sleeves is also a good idea. However, we should avoid light blue and dark colours, as tsetse flies are attracted to them.

One Nile more or less seems to make no difference here

It's half past five when we lift our legs off the bed, keeping all this in mind. An early rise is necessary because the ferry across the Victoria Nile in Paraa sets off at nine o'clock, and it's about a two-hour drive there.

 

 

The Victoria Nile, as they call it here, is in fact the White Nile. Flowing from Lake Victoria, it cuts through the national park, eventually flowing into Lake Albert. From there, it continues its journey to the Mediterranean Sea, this time known as the Albert Nile. One Nile more or less seems to make no difference here.

A red-earth track leads us northward through undulating terrain, slightly veiled by a hazy sky. Cassava, maize, and bananas are planted in the fields.

Bananas are particularly vulnerable to diseases, especially in East Africa. They don't reproduce via seeds, which means there's no genetic variation – each plant is an exact clone of the mother plant. The Laboratory of Tropical Plant Cultivation at Leuven, Belgium, is a global leader in combating these diseases. Their Biodiversity's International Transit Centre houses the world's largest in vitro collection of bananas. They provide virus-free bananas to more than a hundred countries.

Even at this early hour, children in uniforms are already walking to school. Adults on rudimentary-looking bicycles move dreamily towards their work or other activities. Motorized traffic is scarce, with an occasional motorcycle stirring up dust.

 

Kichumbanyobo Gate

Just before half past seven, we reach Kichumbanyobo Gate, the entrance to Murchison Falls National Park. About 64 kilometres still separate us from the ferry. Immediately, the open landscape gives way to an almost impenetrable forest. Sometimes it seems as if the road is tunnelling through the greenery. Undoubtedly, the area is teeming with life, but the dense foliage makes it impossible to spot any animals.

Except for baboons, that is, because they are abundant here. They sit beside the road, and sometimes right on it – in groups of dozens. They reluctantly yield their spot as we approach.

Richard reassures us that there will be many more animals to see north of the river – Rothschild's giraffes, hippos, crocodiles, lions, numerous species of antelope... However, he adds that dictatorships haven't been good for the wildlife population. Poaching was more the norm than the exception during those times. There was no form of supervision whatsoever.

As the morning mists dissipate, the sun gradually takes over. Even the clouds seem to yield to its power.

 

Slowly and smoothly, like a silver mirror, the water of the mighty Victoria Nile flows past us, about two hundred meters wide

Paraa Ferry

Just before nine, we stand at the barrier of the Paraa Ferry¹⁾. Slowly and smoothly, like a silver mirror, the water of the mighty Victoria Nile flows past us, about 200 meters wide. We find ourselves approximately 700 meters above sea level.

On the other side, the ferry slowly detaches from the shore. It carries four jeeps and about thirty people. Smoothly, it docks on our side, and the jeeps and passengers disembark promptly.

It's nothing more than a few linked pontoons with a motor and a railing, but the ferry does its job excellently. It's only now that we notice two armed soldiers accompanying the crossing.

 

Warthog

On the other side, Patricia awaits us. As a park ranger, she will guide our morning safari. Richard and David push up the roofs of the jeeps. Standing up in the shade of the roof, we have a perfect 360° view of the surroundings.

 

Chameleon

But it's Richard's eagle eyes that first notice the grass-green chameleon in the grass-green verge. It's incredible what that man sees from behind the wheel. It's only when the little creature ventures awkwardly onto the red sandy track and timidly observes its surroundings with its bulging eyes that we notice it.

 

Baboons

Baboons, on the other hand, you can't miss. In an open spot beside the road, about ten of them are lounging around. They usually form groups of about fifteen individuals, according to Patricia. Fruits are their favourite food, but they also dare to prey on vervet monkeys or small antelopes. They are therefore not welcome guests. A warthog grazing a little further away doesn't seem to fear them.

 

 

For now, it's still peace and quiet. One is lying luxuriously on its back, while a female is diligently picking fleas on its olive-green fur. There are quite a few youngsters around, frolicking happily. One is so young that it clings to the mother's belly. Their gestation period lasts for six months, Patricia informs us.

 

 

Two waterbucks stare at us attentively from amid the tall grass, a female and a male. The male seizes the opportunity to mount her from behind, but she pays no heed. Without taking her eyes off us, she shakes him off.

There's a scent to this that lions would turn their noses up at

Waterbucks (f and m)

In vain, we search for the characteristic white ring on their hindquarters. You only see that in the waterbucks of Southern Africa, Richard explains. Here, you'll only find defassa waterbucks, with the distinctive white spot on the belly. For now, we don't see any of that, the grass is too high.

The meat of a waterbuck is not something a lion would enjoy. Because there's a scent to it that lions would turn their noses up at. So a lion must be quite desperate before it goes after a waterbuck. Waterbucks can live easily for twenty years. If you count the rings in their horns, you can determine their age. Their gestation period lasts seven to eight months.

 

 

The landscape quickly evolves into undulating green savannah, dotted with acacia trees that elephants and giraffes enjoy nibbling on. The menacing-looking white thorns of those trees seem not to bother them. Even palm trees are noticeable here and there. Allegedly, these were brought by elephants from Sudan – specifically their seeds.

In a sandy bowl between the hills, a dozen elephants are grazing. It's a family herd, led by a dominant female, a matriarch. An African elephant can weigh up to six tons, with a shoulder height reaching 3.5 meters. It's the largest mammal on land. They need about 300 kg of food every day. And what is sometimes forgotten is that this leads to over 250 kg of excrement per day.

 

In the 1960s, herds of five hundred elephants were not uncommon

Elephants grind their food with four molars, two in the upper jaw and two in the lower jaw. New molars grow at the back of the mouth and push out the old ones once they are worn out. Typically, this happens after about ten years. But after six rounds of replacement, the stock of molars is depleted. Without molars, the elephant is in trouble. Starvation is inevitably looming. If possible, they first seek out moist areas where softer food is available. This sometimes leads to a concentration of elephant skeletons in marshy areas, which in turn led to the myth of elephant graveyards.

The tusks, however, are a different story. Initially, an elephant calf only has milk teeth, but within the year, these are replaced by real tusks. These tusks can grow up to 17 cm per year, quickly becoming massive at three meters long. Each tusk can weigh up to 90 kg. Add to this a trunk weighing 140 kg, and you realize that an adult elephant must have a heavy head – more than 300 kg, to be exact.

This in turn led to the myth of elephant graveyards

Elephants don't rely on their eyes. Their vision doesn't extend beyond twenty meters. However, they hear and smell exceptionally well – this they have in common with rhinos. And they have something special up their sleeve. They communicate infrasonically, at a sound frequency so low that we can't hear it. It’s believed they can alert each other up to ten kilometres away.

Harassing an elephant, well, that's not something you want to do. Because an elephant, predictably, has an elephant's memory. Decades later it will still remember what you did and take revenge.

If an elephant flaps its ears, it's just cooling itself down. No worries. But it can also mean that it's restless, and then you'd better get out of its way.

An elephant bull in musth is truly to be avoided. Aggressive and completely unpredictable, its testosterone levels can be sixty times higher than normal. Yet mating desire likely has nothing to do with it. There have been cases of elephants in musth killing rhinos. Just like that, without reason.

An elephant bull in musth is truly to be avoided

Only a few days, at irregular intervals, is a female elephant fertile. When a male elephant mates, he immediately injects about one and a half litres of sperm. Then it's a 22-month wait for the birth.

Currently, the park counts 3,500 elephants, Patricia concludes her explanation. That may seem like a lot, but in the 1960s, there were still 14,500. Herds of five hundred elephants were not uncommon then. Lawlessness, corruption, and poaching during the dictatorships have since decimated those numbers.

In addition, there are about 2,500 giraffes and 150 lions living here. As if to underscore that, the first giraffe makes its appearance. Not just any giraffe, but a Rothschild's giraffe. That's a threatened species. There are only about seven hundred left in the wild – exclusively in northwest Uganda and southwest Kenya. They are doing better in captivity. Worldwide, over 450 have been bred in zoos.

You can best recognize the Rothschild's giraffe by the absence of spots on the lower leg. It looks as if they're wearing knee-high white stockings. But that's misleading. Because the joint we think is the knee is actually the ankle. The alleged calf bones of the giraffe are in fact enormously enlarged foot bones.

 

Rothschild’s giraffe

The solitary male stands in the distance, resting in the shade of a large palm tree. Females or young giraffes are nowhere to be seen.

Once fully grown, the male can reach a height of 5.5 meters, with a neck of nearly two meters. This is always useful when reaching high up into a tree for the juiciest leaves. Yet, a giraffe has exactly the same number of neck vertebrae as a human – seven to be precise.

Pumping blood around such a body is no easy task. However, with a 60 cm long heart muscle weighing ten to twelve kilograms, it manages just fine. The tough skin is also entirely geared towards resisting high blood pressure. Giraffes usually walk cautiously, so as not to injure their skin. Because when every step takes them one and a half meters further, they then still make good progress. If necessary, they can reach speeds of up to 60 km per hour, but even then, it seems like you’re watching a slow-motion movie.

 

Hartebeest

A lone hartebeest gazes at us from amidst the tall grass. Its name is derived from the Dutch settlers who believed the animal resembles a deer – hertenbeest in Old Dutch. It is the only antelope species where both males and females are equipped with horns, although those of the females are slightly smaller. In fact, it is Jackson's hartebeest, a subspecies with somewhat indistinct boundaries. They use their tear glands to mark grass blades to communicate with their fellow members of the species.

 

The hartebeest marks grass blades with its tear gland

They can run like the best, especially when a lion is chasing them. But you can't really call their memory an elephant memory. As soon as they start running, they quickly forget why they are running and give up, according to Richard. And the lion gladly takes advantage of that.

The dirt road continues to undulate over the open savannah. Antelopes feel at home because they can see their predators coming from afar. Oribis, for example, with their characteristic black scent gland just below the ears. This is how they mark their territory. The short horns of the males stand erect.

They eye us tensely for a moment, but then quickly return to their daily routine – nibbling on grass, suckling a young one, or engaging in playful antics. These dwarf antelopes are monogamous for life, Richard says. Even after death, they remain faithful to their partner.

 

Oribis

Then an earth airstrip appears, surrounded by a wire fence and some huts at the entrance. Pakuba Airfield is the rather pompous name of the desolate place. Yet, there is an airplane there.

In the distance, the Albert Nile now makes its appearance. That reminds us that we are penetrating deeper into Buligi, the broad peninsula between the Victoria Nile to the south and the Albert Nile to the north.

 

Oribi

In a sandy depression, giraffes and buffaloes graze side by side in harmony. One has no reason to fear the other; they do not impede each other in any way.

However, the African buffalo should not be underestimated. It is one of the deadliest animals on the continent, very unpredictable and quick to anger. It is no coincidence that it is part of the select group known as the Big Five – the five animals that are the most difficult and dangerous to hunt, namely the elephant, the lion, the leopard, the rhinoceros, and the buffalo. Still, around two hundred deaths occur each year due to buffalo attacks.

It is no coincidence that it is part of the select group known as the Big Five

Red-billed oxpecker, buffalo

One of them stands nearby, studying us from a short distance beside the road. It's an imposing male, with a brown crust of dried earth on his black back to ward off the heat of the sun and the prick of insects. In the grass, a red-billed oxpecker patiently waits for its chance to pick off ticks and parasites from between its skin.

 

Kobs

Antelopes abound here, but one stands out head and shoulders above the rest – the kob. Not because of its size, but because of its status. Alongside the grey crowned crane, the kob adorns the coat of arms of Uganda. With appropriate pride, Patricia points out a few specimens.

 

Kob (m)

Kobs (v)

They are graceful and elegant, these cousins of the waterbuck, with their reddish-brown coats and pale bellies, a white spot on the neck, and quaint black stripes on the forelegs. The males confidently carry a pair of strongly ringed horns, each over half a meter long. Again, a few giraffes are not far off, but no one seems to mind.

 

Rothschild’s giraffes

 

A large black bird strides proudly through the grass. On its beak, it sports a horn-like comb, while a red throat pouch dangles from its neck. This northern ground hornbill is capable of flight, but you'll often find it on the ground, scavenging for just about anything that moves – from insects to reptiles, and reportedly even small hares.

 

Northern or Abyssinian ground hornbill

While half a dozen giraffes feast on some trees, a tiny crimson bird with a blue-green head overlooks its small universe from a minuscule termite mound. It's a northern carmine bee-eater, says Richard. Bees are its favourite delicacy, but other insects better also watch out when it's around. Effortlessly, it plucks them from the air. A little further away, two of them are perched on a branch. One is just swallowing an insect. If it was a bee, it surely removed the stinger first.

 

Northern carmine bee-eater

If it’s prey is a bee, it surely removes the stinger first

A palm-nut vulture is enjoying its lunch as well. Perched on a thick branch in a tree, it's busy with its prey. We can't quite make out what it is – perhaps a lizard. Palm nuts are its favourite treat. That’s a strange preference for a hunter, and thus it owes its name to it. The red patch around its eyes makes it easily recognizable. It doesn't need thermals; in flight, it behaves like an eagle. That's why they also call it the vulturine fish eagle.

 

Palm-nut vulture

Around a small pond, about fifty grey crowned cranes have landed, along with a handful of Egyptian geese. In the background, a kob with elegant horns looks on calmly. It's a fascinating sight, all these colourful wading birds, with their greyish-white plumage with a golden tuft at the tail. For a moment, a couple starts to courtship dance.

 

Grey crowned cranes

But it's especially the golden crown feathers on their black and white heads and the red throat sac that draw attention. Their unique appearance has earned them a central place on the Ugandan flag – the grey crowned crane is the national bird. Although their bills are unusually short for cranes, they still manage to catch insects and even small mammals.

 

Grey crowned cranes

Courting grey crowned cranes

As they gradually notice our presence, the elegant birds start to move away, some walking, some flying.

Along the edge of the track, in the soft, disturbed sand, about twenty carmine bee-eaters lie on their bellies in the sun. They seem to be sunbathing – we imagine them wearing small sunglasses and having bath towels with them.

 

They seem to be sunbathing – we imagine them wearing small sunglasses

Against the pale horizon, a long caravan of about twenty giraffes moves slowly over the hill. They're on their way to a giraffe conference, Richard jokes. Among giraffes, it's customary for females with young to form such groups.

 

Giraffes on their way to a giraffe conference…

A male becomes sexually mature at seven years old, while a female reaches maturity at four years old. Females always give birth in the place where they themselves were born, Patricia explains. Their gestation period lasts for fourteen months. They give birth standing up, and the umbilical cord breaks upon the fall – a harsh way for the newborn to enter this world.

 

 

Some elephants are enjoying the lush green grass. On their broad backs, red-billed oxpeckers jostle for position.

 

Elephant, red-billed oxpeckers

It's quarter past one when we're back at the ferry in Paraa. The Sian from Wild Frontiers River Nile Safaris is already waiting for us for a boat trip on the Victoria Nile. Just before two, we set sail. Four hippos watch us suspiciously, giving us nothing more than their noses, eyes, and ears to see. Now we head upstream in search of Murchison Falls, the park's crown jewel, where the Nile forces its way through a narrow gorge in the rocks with a lot of noise. Etchi is our playful skipper, always ready with a joke.

 

Hippo

A dozen hippos gather in the water, seemingly undisturbed by our presence. From the shore, an elephant watches the scene unfold. It's an old male, missing one of his tusks, and likely his molars as well. Here, amidst the lush grass, he tries to delay his hunger death a little longer.

 

 

With its mouth wide open, a crocodile yearns for some coolness. Its armoured skin doesn't allow for cooling. The flap it uses to close its throat when dragging prey underwater is clearly visible.

 

Nile crocodile

There's certainly no shortage of dangerous animals in this area. Yet, it's precisely here that Hemingway and his wife spent the night after their first plane crash on January 22, 1954, out of necessity.

 

Great egret

A great egret seems to be uncomfortable with our presence. With stately wingbeats, it hurriedly moves away.

 

Egyptian goose

We make less of an impression on the two Egyptian geese that are in the shallow water. They form a lifelong couple. Together, they defend their territory against intruders of their own kind, hatch their eggs, and, if it suits them, they drown the chicks of their fellow geese.

 

Young Goliath heron

From among the reeds, a young Goliath heron keeps a sharp eye on its surroundings, its long bill slightly upturned. You wouldn't guess it from the slender bird, but even fish nearly half a meter long are not safe from it.

 

African fish eagle

The distinctive white chest, neck, and head of the African fish eagle, along with its yellow beak, are hard to miss. Perched high in a palm tree, it scans the river with its keen gaze. Fish primarily make up its menu, but it also preys on birds, small mammals, and even carrion.

 

Spur-winged geese

The spur-winged geese that linger in the low grass appear more peaceful. But that's just a facade. During mating season, they can deliver sharp blows with the spurs on their wings. And often, these spurs are poisonous too. Fond of toxic blister beetles, they unintentionally accumulate a lethal dose of poison in their tissue.

A few Egyptian geese also catch our attention. But it's still the hippos that steal the spotlight. Not even the solitary male elephant in the background can compete. One of the hippos will soon open its mouth wide, Etchi predicts. He's certain of it; after all, it's his buddy, he says. But the wait for the photogenic pose is in vain.

 

Long-toed lapwing

During the day, you'll invariably find hippos in the water because it's cooler there. Females and young ones live together in a harem under the supervision of a possessive male. He constantly patrols at the edge of the group to cut off any potential competitors in time.

Copulation and giving birth, it all happens in the water. A newborn calf weighs 40 kg, and a year and a half later, it's already 160 kg. And they keep growing their entire lives.

 

 

They are pachyderms, and you can take that literally. Six centimetres of skin account for 20 % of their body weight. On top of that, there's a thin epidermis with glands that secrete a substance to prevent dehydration once they leave the water.

Their tendency to stay close to the shore shouldn't come as a surprise. After all, they can't swim. However, they can stay underwater for four to six minutes when the need arises.

Yet, they have no interest in water plants. They graze exclusively on land, preferably at night. You wouldn't think it, but these cumbersome animals climb steep slopes with ease to graze on a plateau.

Promptly, Etchi sets an Olympic record for sailing backward and seeks out other territories

Despite being herbivores, they are counted among the most dangerous animals in Africa. They are aggressive and unpredictable, much like buffaloes. If they feel threatened – for example, if a human or another animal ventures between them and the safe water – they won't hesitate to charge. At speeds of up to 30 kilometres per hour.

However, this doesn't prevent the decline of the hippo population in Africa. In 2006, there were fewer than 150,000.

Meanwhile, our hippos are getting quite agitated, because Etchi is approaching them too closely. Suddenly, the male has had enough. With much noise, his head menacingly appears above the water. Promptly, Etchi sets an Olympic record for sailing backward and seeks out other territories.

A few chestnut-brown white-faced whistling ducks scurry away from the shore as we approach. A long-toed lapwing is surprised by the commotion.

 

Hippo female with young

A hippo mother has finally dared to go ashore during the day to graze with her young, but now wonders if she should regret it, given our unexpected presence.

 

Buffaloes, cattle egrets

Buffalo, yellow-billed oxpeckers

Two buffaloes roam the shore. They are old males, cast out from the herd. Yellow-billed oxpeckers are busy on their backs or cling to their flanks like mountaineers. There, they feast on ticks. It's not entirely without obligation. Because they also savour the blood of the buffalo. They suck it directly from the wound, preventing it from healing. Soon, new ticks will emerge, and the oxpeckers can return to the table.

 

Yellow-billed stork

A bit warily, a yellow-billed stork peers at us over its shoulder, revealing just enough to show its long yellow bill and a portion of its red facial mask. It's a beautiful bird, but a bit lazy. Chasing after prey is not on its mind. It prefers to stand in shallow water with its mouth open, waiting for something tasty to pass by.

 

Pied kingfisher

A steep riverbank of clay and sand, that's a paradise for kingfishers. They've built dozens of nests there. Especially pied kingfishers come and go. One of them sits with a fish in its beak, staring at us. Almost certainly, it caught that by hovering motionless above the water and then suddenly plunging onto its prey.

 

Pied kingfisher with prey

Even a tiny African pygmy kingfisher catches attention, with its orange chest and its amusing blue cap. Measuring barely twelve centimetres, yet it's known to pluck frogs and geckos from the grass. It then strikes them dead on a branch and gulps them down entirely.

 

Northern carmine bee-eater

The carmine bee-eater also feels at home here. Calmly perched on a branch, it shows off its magnificent plumage – ochre-coloured chest, green wings, blue belly, broad black stripe through the eyes. And a red throat, of course.

 

Red-headed rock agama

At the very top of the sand wall, a red-headed rock agama waits motionless. It doesn't shy away from the heat of the day. Its vibrant colours reveal his mood – the breeding season has begun. Its dull brown colour has been replaced by a deep blue body, a bright orange head, and a matching tail.

 

Nile crocodile

In the shade of a tree lies a gigantic Nile crocodile cooling off. Motionless, as if it were a plastic replica, with its mouth wide open. Another specimen trudges stubbornly through the grass towards the river. Some warthogs are on alert, but for now, they have nothing to fear.

 

Nile crocodile, warthog

Even kneeling, the female saddle-billed stork remains an imposing figure. Also amusing, because her ‘knees’ bend forward, so her calves lie in front of her in the short grass. Very remarkable is her long, red beak with a black band and at the very top a yellow, saddle-shaped shield. It is indeed a female, Etchi says, because her irises are yellow.

 

‘Kneeling’ saddle-billed stork (f)

Deeply concealed in the foliage of a tree, a monitor lizard enjoys the coolness. Crocodile eggs are its thing. There's no shortage of them here, we suspect, as a bit further away, three more crocodiles are lazing under a tree.

Now the dull rumble of water cascading down grows louder. Just one last bend in the river, and we come face to face with Murchison Falls, the jewel of the park. The water forcefully squeezes through a vertical cleft between densely wooded, dark rocks, producing white foam with great power. Barely seven meters wide is that gap. For the White Nile, it marks the endpoint of the roughest stretch of its journey to the Mediterranean Sea, with a drop of 350 meters over 80 kilometres.

 

Murchison Falls

Just before four, we start the climb on foot to the top of the waterfall. Initially, the path leads us through dense vegetation along the riverbank.

About every hundred meters, a cage of bright blue and black fabric hangs from a branch. That means tsetse flies are here because they are attracted to those colours. Innocently, they settle on the poisonous fabric. Or they let themselves be trapped by the cage. That's quite reassuring for us. Or maybe not.

 

Trap for tsetse flies

Red-headed rock agama

Spectacular is the view from Baker's Rock, a low rock that juts sharply into the water. It was Samuel Baker who, in 1864, became the first European to behold Murchison Falls and gave the waterfall its current name.

Gradually, a second waterfall emerges from behind the hill, even wider than the first. Apparently, the White Nile splits into two before plunging over a height of 36 meters from the plateau. The scene may not rival the Victoria Falls, but we are impressed.

The path becomes steeper now, while the available time dwindles visibly – Etchi expects us back on the boat by five o'clock. It will take perseverance, but it's worth it.

From the top, we overlook the vast surroundings. The White Nile roars as it squeezes through the narrow gorge, enveloping the few spectators in a mist where the sun paints a delicate rainbow. White foaming spray seems to fill the gorge completely. In the distance, the tranquil waters of the Nile continue eastward as if nothing has happened.

 

White Nile

Once there was a footbridge over the narrow gorge. Nowhere in Africa can you lay a bridge over the Nile so cheaply, Winston Churchill had suggested here in 1907. Fortunately, the river put an end to the footbridge within a year. Today, only a stub of a pillar reminds us of the infamous structure.

The waterfalls have always had a special significance for the kingdom of Bunyoro. Originally, they were named after Kabalega. As omukama, king of Bunyoro, this local hero resisted the advancing British for years at the end of the 19th century. In 1972, Idi Amin made a futile attempt to reintroduce the name Kabalega Falls. When the current omukama, Solomon Gafabusa Iguru I, visited the falls in 2013, it was a particularly symbolic event. A copper memorial plaque still reminds us of that.

‘Nowhere in Africa can you lay a bridge over the Nile so cheaply’, Winston Churchill had suggested in 1907

White Nile

As soon as we're back on board, Etchi immediately sets sail, heading back to the Paraa ferry. Hippos are still plentiful along the way. A female has ventured onto the shore with her tiny young calf in search of food. They're wary and quickly dive into the water.

The carmine bee-eaters and pied kingfishers are still around. A yellow-billed stork and an African darter sit together on a dry branch. A African fish eagle basks in the warm rays of the evening sun. A Goliath heron strides through the tall grass.

 

Hippo

Then the hippos come back to steal the show once again. With renewed enthusiasm, Etchi encourages his hippo to open its mouth wide. But the animal remains unmoved. A bit disappointed, Etchi continues the journey. However, as soon as we turn our backs, the hippo opens its mouth wide. Etchi bursts with joy.

It's quarter to six when we disembark. The jeeps set off towards Pakuba Safari Lodge, on the plateau above the Albert Nile. It's about a twenty-kilometre drive, which Richard promptly turns into an evening safari. A black-bellied bustard struts through the grass. A significant sign, as these ground birds prefer places with a lot of rain.

For a brief moment, a lioness is spotted, but she stretches out flat between the tall grass. She's not yet ready for the hunt. The young male that appears later isn't ready either.

 

Northern ground hornbills

Two northern ground hornbills forage through the grass. Physically, they are almost identical. Only the throat pouch betrays their gender – red in the male, blue in the female. They typically form a pair for life. Grasshoppers, snakes, and even small rodents should be wary when they are nearby. It's a bit like the handful of kobs further on, anxiously watching two spotted hyenas as they roam through the evening twilight.

 

 

There's no place with a broader panorama than Pakuba Lodge, the comfortable hotel that overlooked the Albert Nile from a height in the 1960s. Even Idi Amin was charmed by it. So much so that he appropriated the idyllic spot and turned it into his vacation retreat. He enjoyed hosting guests there. Legend has it that he stayed there more often than in his palace in Kampala. Perhaps that also explains the proximity to the airstrip.

Today, only the ruins of Pakuba Lodge remain. Not exactly a place to seek out, were it not for the fact that lions and even leopards are sometimes spotted on the bare, weathered walls as they survey the surroundings.

But it's in vain, Richard comes up empty-handed. A stone's throw away awaits us the new Pakuba Safari Lodge.

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Thursday, July 14 | Murchison Falls National Park

Just before six, the jeeps drive into the ink-black darkness. Only the monotonous swish of the windshield wipers breaks the silence. At half past midnight, thunder rumbled, announcing the impending downpour, and half an hour later, it poured. Now, it's just drizzling.

One last time, Richard guides us through Buligi, the peninsula with its abundant wildlife. The nocturnal rain has taken its toll, turning some sand tracks into mud puddles. Richard and David have their hands full. In search of solid ground, the jeeps sometimes lean 30 to 40 degrees.

After half an hour, we can see the Albert Nile through the vague glow on the right. In the twilight, Richard points out a few silhouettes. Apparently, the giraffes are already on the move.

Just after half past six, we reach the open savanna. The roofs of the jeeps open, despite the slight rain. Waterbucks and hartebeests are already present, and even a small bushbuck. But it's still too dark to distinguish the white dots and stripes on its reddish-brown coat.

Nothing escapes Richard’s attention, not even in the twilight. On the edge of the sand track, just beside the tire tracks of the jeeps, a dung beetle is toiling away. Supporting itself on its front legs, it pushes a perfectly round dung ball forward with its hind legs. It's a remarkable sight, as the ball is about five times larger than the beetle is. The female will lay her eggs in it, and the larvae will feed on the dung. A second dung beetle clings to the ball and casually rolls along. Undoubtedly, the roles will be reversed soon.

Gradually, the bushes become denser again. Bird sounds surround us from all sides, but the creatures themselves are barely visible – a spur-winged lapwing, a wattled lapwing, and a few white-faced whistling ducks.

 

Kobs

A bit bewildered, two dozen kobs stand on an open field, all facing in one direction, not a single one grazing. That's strange.

It's not immediately clear who the culprit is

The explanation doesn't take long to reveal itself. Further on, a pair of side-striped jackals – likely a couple – are feasting on the fresh carcass of a kob. It must have been an adult male, one of its elegant ringed horns now protruding uselessly above the grass.

 

Side-striped jackhal with a killed kob

It seems highly unlikely that the jackals themselves killed the kob. They might be able to catch a young antelope with some luck, but not an adult male. So, who the perpetrator is, is not immediately clear.

 

Palm-nut vulture

Some palm-nut vultures have long noticed that there's a feast to be had here. Patiently, they perch on a bush just above the crime scene, waiting their turn in the pecking order. Further on, a black kite appears to have the same intention.

 

White-backed vulture

A white-backed vulture shares a bare tree with half a dozen piapiacs. Often, you'll see those black crow-like birds tip-toeing in groups on the ground in search of insects. Once, the white-backed vulture was the most widespread vulture in Africa, but in recent years, its population has been rapidly declining. It's now even considered one of the critically endangered species. Human-induced habitat destruction has a lot to do with this.

 

Hooded vulture

The hooded vulture also faces significant challenges, somewhat similar to the story of the white-backed vulture. It's a funny-looking creature. With its pinkish scalp and the peculiar hood on its crown, it almost looks like a stern judge.

 

White-faced whistling-duck

As the rain gradually intensifies, the roofs of the jeeps close. It's not a big deal because we're approaching the ferry. Some hyenas roam through the grass. Could they be the ones who got hold of the kob?

 

Spotted hyena

Two monkeys with a reddish-brown fur – a female with her young – make their way through the wet grass. They are patas monkeys, their black faces surrounded by a grey-white beard. This open savanna is their habitat. It's not without danger, but they are fearless, even capable of driving away a jackal. Their arsenal of alarm calls is so refined that they can even inform their companions about the type of animal threatening them.

 

A female patas monkey with her young

As the very last vehicles, our jeeps board the Paraa ferry. That makes a total of eight vehicles, and the ferry is fully loaded.

At quarter past nine, we are on the southern bank of the Victoria Nile. Twenty-five minutes later, we're still there. Administrative and financial issues with the park rangers are keeping us. Richard remains unperturbed.

 

 

We're now heading southwest, towards Butiaba on the shores of Lake Albert. We leave the national park through Bugungu Gate. The inhabited world begins to emerge. Grey, round huts with conical roofs made of dried grass appear along the road.

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Jaak Palmans
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Toti decides who gets to eat what

¹⁾ In 2018, the new Paraa Bridge over the Victoria Nile was put into use, rendering the ferry obsolete.