The man of the forest
Malaysia | Anno 2016
Saturday, April 2 | Sandakan
Monday, April 4 | Sandakan – Sukau
Saturday, April 2 | Sandakan
In the distance, the jagged, pale grey ridge of Gunung Kinabalu makes its appearance, at 4 095 meters the highest mountain on Borneo. A little later, we land at Lapangan Terbang Sandakan, on the coast of the Sulu Sea. An almost cloudless sky gives the sun free rein here. Once, this little airport was nothing more than a military airstrip, built in 1942 through the sheer slave labor of British and Australian prisoners of war.
Here, in Sandakan, the Philippines are almost within reach. As the crow flies, the Philippine capital, Manila, is only half as far away as the Malaysian capital, Kuala Lumpur. It is therefore not surprising that the area is teeming with illegal Filipinos from the troubled Mindanao, the southernmost group of islands in the Philippines, where Islamic insurgents have been waging a fierce battle against the government for half a century.
Piracy is rampant, and kidnappings are a daily occurrence
But there is more going on in the seemingly idyllic Sulu Sea. Piracy is rampant, and kidnappings are a daily occurrence. That is also the reason why we can no longer risk the short crossing to the national park on the Turtle Islands. The risk of trouble is too great.
Dressed immaculately in his ranger uniform – including a cap with neck protection – Eric stands at attention, straight as a board, waiting for us. For the next four days, he will be our guide, meticulous and punctual like a rock in the surf.
Irix is his tribal name. In 1951, his father emigrated from the Philippines to Sabah to work as a logger. At the request of the British, he quickly adds, cutting off any mistaken perception that he might descend from an illegal immigrant. His Malaysian wife belongs to the Kadazan-Dusun tribe.
Sim Sim – Stilt houses
With Sam at the wheel of the bus, we descend via the coastal road toward the city centre. At the entrance of the bay, the stilt houses of Sim Sim appear. There are hundreds of them. Concrete walkways stretch up to three hundred meters out to sea, along which the wooden stilt houses with corrugated iron roofs line up on both sides like berries on a branch. Living here is much cheaper for the poor Filipinos. After all, you don't need to buy land if you build over water. Across the road, at the foot of the slope, stands the Islamic prayer house, Surau Al-Furqan.
Sandakan – Harbour
It's already quarter to six when we reach the hotel, situated right on the shore of Sandakan Bay, 26 stories high. An armed police officer is stationed at the hotel entrance. If pirates show up, Eric explains, they will – oh, surprise – come from the sea. With a sweeping arm gesture, he points to the mangrove forests across the bay, where a hidden channel is said to be located.
With its airstrip and seaport, this was an important stronghold for the Japanese
At the end of World War II, Sandakan suffered quite a bit. Allied bombings especially ravaged the city. With its airstrip and seaport, this was an important stronghold for the Japanese. After the war, the city was rebuilt. Unburdened by any form of creative inspiration, the builders filled in the rectangular street plan with concrete. It became a dull mess, as is immediately evident during our evening walk. Street lighting is almost nonexistent, making the sterile buildings appear even gloomier. During the night hours, the rats are said to rule the streets.
Generally, the ground floors are used as shop spaces or offices. There are a notably large number of banks. The money that comes in there is not earned in Sandakan but on the plantations in the interior. On the upper floors, sometimes ten to fifteen family members from three generations live together in a single apartment. Until the end of the last century, you could even find child prostitution here and there. Beautiful girls from the Indonesian city of Surabaya were quite sought after.
The colonial atmosphere is carefully maintained, complete with a croquet lawn
For dinner, we head into the hills. There, at the highest point, an officer once meticulously monitored the movements of incoming and outgoing ships. His official residence is now an English Teahouse & Restaurant. The colonial atmosphere is carefully maintained, complete with a croquet lawn. With stiff upper lips, we sit down at the table.
Sunday, April 3 | Sepilok
Four people have been kidnapped in Semporna, reports The Borneo Post today on its front page. This small fishing village is renowned for its diving and snorkelling tourism, located on the coast of the Sulu Sea, about three hundred kilometres from here. The pirates' motive is said to be ransom, and ethnic Chinese individuals are believed to be the victims, according to the newspaper.
Aside from that report, there is hardly a cloud in the sky. The sun is shining, and that's a good thing because one of the highlights of the trip is coming up – our encounter with the orangutan, the man of the forest.
A well-paved road with two lanes takes us through the lowland jungle to Mile 14. That brief mention is sufficient to indicate our destination, as there is only one road, which you are supposed to follow for fourteen miles – just over 22 kilometres. This will lead us to Sepilok.
Sabah – Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre – The man of the forest
Here lies the famous SORC, the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre. Since 1964, they have been preparing young orangutans for their return to the true wilderness.
Baby orangutans are sometimes offered for sale. However, about eight years later, the buyer finds himself unable to handle the adult animal, and it invariably ends up in a cage.
Plantation farmers get agitated and mercilessly shoot the intruders
Victims also fall prey elsewhere. The fruit of an oil palm is something an orangutan cannot resist. Thus, they end up in a palm oil plantation, unbothered by any form of fencing. Plantation farmers get agitated and mercilessly shoot the intruders. If a female is killed, a baby often remains behind.
Such animals are taken in by the SORC in this piece of rainforest of barely 43 square kilometres. There, they can gradually detox from humans and develop the skills necessary to survive in the wild.
The orangutans are fed twice a day. At precisely 10 am and 15 pm, milk and bananas are placed on the feeding platform. Whether the animals will show up is unpredictable. The same food every day can be rather monotonous. The goal is, of course, to get them gradually interested in what is available in nature – figs, forest fruits, and even leaves.
The aim of human intervention is to make this intervention unnecessary
Once that interest is piqued, the animal is moved to the vicinity of another platform. There, food is only provided once a day; the orangutan must fend for itself for the rest. When the orangutan stops appearing at this platform as well, the process is complete. The animal is ready to be released into the wild. The aim of human intervention is, therefore, to make this intervention unnecessary.
Time for some taxonomy. Lemurs, which are prosimians, are the furthest from humans in the primate universe. Closer are monkeys, such as the macaques and the proboscis monkeys that we encountered in Baku. Gibbons are already considered apes. Among the great apes, the chimpanzee and the bonobo are closest to Homo sapiens, followed by the gorilla and the orangutan.
What makes great apes so special among all primates is, among other things, their relatively large brain volume in relation to their body volume and their opposable thumbs, which allow for fine motor skills. They also often walk on their hind legs. Another anatomical detail that distinguishes them is that they have no tails.
This low reproductive rate poses serious problems for the species
Back to the orangutans. Females weigh between 30 to 50 kg, while males can weigh 70 to 80 kg. This is significant – the orangutan is the heaviest animal that lives in the trees. Yet they lead a wandering existence. In the wild, they can cover an area of half a square kilometre in one day. In the evening, they make a nest 30 to 40 meters high in a tree. It takes them only five to six minutes to do this.
They reach sexual maturity at ten years old. Males develop secondary sexual characteristics, including cheek pads, making them look formidable. They do not have a specific mating season; the males are interested year-round. They mate in the missionary position – nothing human is alien to them. The female is pregnant for eight to nine months. After birth, the young stay with the mother for two to three years. Once it can build a perfect nest, it is on its way.
A female will have no more than five offspring throughout her life. This low reproductive rate poses serious problems for the species, now that they are threatened by ongoing deforestation, expanding palm oil plantations, and even poachers hunting young animals. It is estimated that about 55 000 orangutans still live in Borneo, and in the Indonesian region of Sumatra, only about 7 000.
Southern pig-tailed macaque |
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Squirrel |
It's a quarter to nine when Sam parks his bus in front of the SORC. We immediately head into the screening room, where The Man of the Forest, a film by Tv in the Tree Productions, is shown. We learn that the SORC has taken in over 760 orangutans to date. Of those, 620 have been released back into the rainforest – a success rate of nearly 82%.
The film tells the story of number 682, showing how the young orangutan is retrieved from a dejected family, how it is given medical care, how it is fed daily, how the reins are gradually loosened, and how it is finally released into the rainforest.
Their arrival has a certain grace, a sense of solemnity, as if they are fully aware that they are the stars of this show
The anthropomorphic qualities of the orangutans are strongly emphasized. 96,4 % of their DNA is identical to that of humans. Currently, around 20 000 orangutans manage to survive in Malaysian Borneo.
Enough theory – we’re eager to see the animals in action. We follow a sturdy boardwalk into the forest, but not before being carefully registered by a park ranger and rubbing our hands with a disinfectant. Anything with a scent had to be left behind on the bus.
A quiet young man has joined our group. His name is Zekhuis, but we can call him Zek. He is knowledgeable about the local flora and fauna and will act as our nature guide. Whether he is an assistant to Eric or a trainee is not immediately clear.
From the visitor platform, we stare at an empty platform between the trees. It’s fairly crowded, with about a hundred spectators sharing our interest. Numerous climbing ropes converge from the surrounding foliage toward the platform where the spectacle will take place.
But that's for later. For now, a blue-black squirrel with a red belly takes charge of the opening act. It tiptoes along one of the ropes to the platform and sniffs around the food. It quickly decides it’s had enough and leaves.
Orangutan at breakfast
Then, two orangutans make their entrance. They calmly descend along a rope to the platform, hanging unperturbed by their four limbs. Their arrival has a certain grace, a sense of solemnity, as if they are fully aware that they are the stars of this show.
Both are females, and one of them is pregnant. They settle onto the platform and start feasting. The pregnant female even lies down, holding pieces of fruit in both her front limbs. She even has a tasty snack in one of her hind legs, which she holds high above her head.
Not enough hands for all that food
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Cautiously, a southern pig-tailed macaque descends the rope to the platform. Knowing that the much larger orangutans might allow her some crumbs from the feast, she ensures she isn't too pushy. A crab-eating macaque also ventures onto the platform.
They quickly grab a few pieces of fruit and then sit at a safe distance on the edge of the platform, munching away. The orangutans remain unbothered, their bellies full. They climb back into the rainforest along the ropes, as cool as when they arrived.
Now, a female macaque dares to step onto the platform with her young. While she enjoys the bananas, her young looks on, seemingly lost in thought.
Crab-eating macaque with young |
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Southern pig-tailed macaque |
Southern pig-tailed macaque (m and v) |
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Southern pig-tailed macaque |
A male southern pig-tailed macaque enters the scene. He’s interested in the bananas, but also in the female macaque sitting there enjoying her meal. While he copulates with her, he calmly nibbles on a banana.
They climb back into the rainforest along the ropes, as cool as when they arrived
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The coaching of the orangutans isn't limited to just providing milk and bananas. This becomes evident in the Outdoor Nursery. There’s some food on a platform again, but that's not the main focus here. A handful of orangutans are having a blast on ropes, climbing poles, nets, and even car tires. They’re still small, bursting with playful energy. One of them even pulls off a triple somersault, much to the delight of the audience.
Whenever they spend a bit too long on the ground, a park ranger nudges them back up
However, whenever they spend a bit too long on the ground, a park ranger nudges them back up. Climbing is a must, as their natural habitat is in the treetops. Only by gaining this experience can they hope to survive in the wild one day.
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A cool drink in the cafeteria is much appreciated before we embark on our next walk, even though it's no more than a two-kilometre round trip. The atmosphere is sultry, with the temperature hovering around 35 °C (95 °F).
Next, we head to the Bird Trail. Spotting birds is the main attraction here. Information boards along the path describe the many bird species you can observe here.
Southern pig-tailed macaque
An inviting boardwalk leads us into the rainforest, but after three hundred meters, the comfort ends. The path now winds up and down over thick tree roots, weaving between towering tropical giants. A southern pig-tailed macaque observes us from the foliage, while a pale blue crab spider tiptoes across the wood.
Dipterocarps |
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Rain forest |
This is lowland rainforest, with thick, mighty trees that often rise above the average canopy. In Sabah, you can find the tallest tropical trees in the world. Most of these trees belong to the dipterocarpaceae family, a group we had never heard of before, but they are typical of the rainforests in Southeast Asia. In contrast, in Africa and the Americas, trees from the legume family dominate the rainforests, with seeds enclosed in pods that eventually burst open.
In Sabah, you can find the tallest tropical trees in the world
True dragonfly
The seeds of dipterocarps, however, typically have two wings, sometimes more, which is how the family gets its name. These trees bloom very rarely, perhaps once or twice every ten years. But when they do, it's a grand event, as all the trees in the surrounding area bloom simultaneously.
Strange, chalk-coloured cylinders rise like tiny cooling towers, about ten centimetres tall, among the dry leaves. These are mud towers, reminding us of the peculiar life cycle of the singing cicadas that provide our daily musical backdrop.
Mud towers of cicadas |
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The cicadas lay their eggs in tiny cracks in plants. Once the eggs hatch, the nymphs drop to the ground and burrow into the soil, where they live in complete anonymity, feeding on tree roots. The mud towers serve as ventilation shafts for these underground dwellers.
After a set number of years, often a prime number like 13 or 17, the nymphs emerge from the ground. The use of prime numbers ensures that their natural predators, which typically have shorter life cycles of two to five years, cannot consistently synchronize with the cicadas' emergence. If they could, the nymphs would face catastrophic predation.
If they could, the nymphs would face catastrophic predation
Once above ground, the nymphs climb up a stem or trunk, where they moult one final time before taking flight as adult cicadas, ready for their first concert. During our walk, we'll often spot these moulted skins clinging to trees or plants.
Still, no birds are in sight along this Bird Trail, giving us ample time to briefly ponder photosynthesis, the process that powers most of the organisms around us. Water regularly pours from the sky here, and carbon dioxide is plentiful in the surrounding air. These two substances are converted into glucose and oxygen through photosynthesis, with energy provided freely by the sun, day after day. Chlorophyll, the green pigment in plants, captures this solar energy and converts it into a form that drives the chemical reaction, explaining why plants are dressed in green.
The glucose produced during photosynthesis is used by the tree to create cellulose, a key component of wood necessary for growth. The oxygen released as a by-product benefits other living creatures, especially mammals.
However, cellulose is notoriously difficult to break down. Mammals can't digest this polymer unless they have a gut full of microorganisms, like the proboscis monkey, for instance.
Their solution to the digestion problem is ingenious
This brings us to termites. Despite being unable to digest wood themselves, termites haul massive amounts of it into their mounds. Their solution to the digestion problem is ingenious: they cultivate fungi on the wood. The fungi break down the wood and produce spores for reproduction, which is precisely what the termites need as their food source.
Checker-throated woodpecker |
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From far away, a rhythmic sound reaches our ears. Is that a woodpecker we hear? It takes a moment for Eric and Zek to spot the culprit. Indeed, a few dozen meters from us, a checker-throated woodpecker is hammering away at a tree trunk.
It’s nearly half past twelve when we reach the wooden lookout tower at the end of the Bird Trail and climb the fifty steps up. Dozens of birds can be heard, but none are visible. Surely, they are hiding just around the corner, laughing at our naivety – searching for birds around noon in this temperature, one must be quite mad. We console ourselves with the fantastic view of the many towering giants that rise above the canopy and head back to the headquarters.
High in a tree, we spot the abandoned nest of an orangutan. It’s a substantial construction, not surprising given the size of these animals.
Repeatedly, the female tries to escape the pounding male, but he’s relentless
Mating orangutans |
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Moth |
But that's not half as interesting as what's happening further along. Two orangutans are engaging in a vigorous mating session high up in a tree. They’re following the textbook – missionary position, that is. The action is quite intense. It’s clear that the female has had enough. Repeatedly, she tries to escape the pounding male, but he’s relentless. It's essentially a case of rape.
A golden moth, about fifteen centimetres long, sits motionless on a green plant. Its wings are marked with strange holes, as if nature has equipped it with fake eyes to scare off predators.
Bears can have a tough time in Asia
Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre – Sun bear
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Bears can have a tough time in Asia. Deforestation and the pet trade are among their lesser woes. Worse are practices such as making sloth bears dance for an audience in India or having black bears' gall bladders permanently drained for use in traditional Chinese medicine.
The critically endangered Malayan sun bear is also suffering severely. Since 2008, the nearby Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre has been working to address the issue. They employ a holistic approach, focusing not just on animal welfare and rehabilitation but also on education and research.
This smallest bear species enjoys spending time in the trees and is an excellent climber – we see one of them lounging leisurely against a tree. Characteristic is the pale, horseshoe-shaped patch on its chest.
Often referred to as the honey bear, due to its fondness for honey, it uses its long tongue – 20 to 25 centimetres – to great effect when feeding on honeycombs. Here, however, it struggles with a coconut, taking considerable effort to tear through the shell.
Young orangutan tries to get a piece of the pie
The second feeding time for the orangutans is approaching, so we hurry back to the SORC. Two orangutans are already indulging – a female and a youngster. The young one must be cautious, as the female is very possessive about food. Occasionally, it manages to snatch some food from her, much to the delight of the audience.
Persistence pays off
The Outdoor Nursery is now somewhat less crowded. Young orangutans are playing on the ropes. A female with a young one appears – something quite unusual, as Zek informs us.
For a long time, the Rainforest Discovery Centre was closed to the public. It was part of the 43 km² reserve, reserved exclusively for the orangutans. However, it opened in 2005, initially for educational purposes and later, in 2012, for bird observation as well.
Nest fern |
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Oriental pied hornbill |
To facilitate this, a Canopy Walk has been constructed. Unlike the narrow, wobbling planks suspended from ropes we met last Wednesday in Mulu, this is a substantial metal structure. The tropical giants – the ficuses, the vines, the nesting ferns, and the brilliant colours of the foliage in the setting sun – captivate us. But the birds once again seem to be absent, except for a solitary oriental pied hornbill.
Monday, April 4 | Sandakan – Sukau
They can't teach us much more about fish now that we've explored the markets of Kota Kinabalu and Serian. At least, that's what we thought. But what we encounter at the Sandakan market challenges our imagination once again. And all these strange creatures are edible, as we assume, since they sell quickly.
Displayed in dried form, but mostly fresh, they are laid out on stone tables, in buckets, in bins, and even on the ground. Ice cooling is non-existent, so it’s best to come early in the morning to make your purchases.
Sustainability is not in the fishermen's vocabulary. Nothing escapes the fine mesh of their fishing nets, not even the smallest fish. In such conditions, species have difficulty reproducing. In the long term, this could become a problem.
And all these strange creatures are edible, as we assume, since they sell quickly
Sandakan – Fish market |
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But for now, there is no sign of any problem. The market is overflowing with offerings. Colourful triggerfish are on display. They are highly territorial and do not hesitate to bite to defend their nests. Even more striking are the parrotfish. Then there’s the batfish, which feels at home on the seafloor and shuffles through the sand with its fins acting like little legs.
A feared predator is the large barracuda with its fearsome teeth. In these waters, it swims in schools around the coral reefs. Giants nearly one and a half meters long and weighing 20 to 30 kg lie here waiting for a buyer.
Also a giant, but with a peaceful nature, is the Napoleon wrasse. It is a popular choice in East Asian cuisine.
Stingray wings |
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Squids |
A dozen stringrays hang with their wings neatly draped over a wall. A manta ray commands respect with its long spine. Dozens of squid remind us of their larger deep-sea relatives and the legendary krakens from sailor’s tales.
Stacks of sharks are also available, primarily reef sharks. The cartilage of these fish is believed to have medicinal value. The myth goes that sharks don’t get cancer. Although it’s true that sharks, like all living creatures, can get cancer – even in their cartilage – ground shark cartilage is still marketed in the West as a cancer remedy.
Shark fin soup has been considered a delicacy in China for about a thousand years
Sharks stripped of their fins |
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Shark fins laid out to dry in the sun |
Some sharks have already been stripped of their fins, while others still have them intact. Outside on the dock, the fins are laid out to dry in the sun. Shark fin soup has been considered a delicacy in China for about a thousand years – a tradition started by an emperor of the Song Dynasty. Every year, millions of sharks pay with their lives for this dish. Interestingly, the fins don't even contribute to the soup's flavour, but rather its texture; it's the other ingredients that provide the relatively bland taste.
Another such delicacy is the famous century egg, which we come across in the vegetable market. You take an egg from a chicken, duck, or quail and wrap it in a mixture of clay, charcoal, quicklime, salt, and rice hulls. This concoction is then left to sit for several weeks or even months. The result is a dark green yolk encased in a brown, salty gelatine. Supposedly, it's something to savour.
The result is a dark green yolk encased in a brown, salty gelatine. Supposedly, it's something to savour
Also popular are the unripe nuts of the areca palm, better known as the betel palm. These nuts are chopped into pieces, placed on a betel leaf, and mixed with quicklime to enhance the effect. Some chewing tobacco is added, along with other possible ingredients to refine the bitter taste. The result is a red paste that you chew for a long time, which gives you a slight euphoria. The unsightly red teeth are just part of the experience, as are the nasty red stains left everywhere on the sidewalks from the spit.
Fishing boats
A few small fishing boats are moored against the quay. Baskets full of fish are left waiting in the full sun to be unloaded. Filipinos are busy cleaning crabs. Their working conditions are generally far from appealing. Sometimes they're not even allowed to leave the boat, receiving only food and shelter as compensation.
Sam navigates his bus through sharp hairpin turns, climbing steeply up the hill. We're on our way to Puu Shih Jin, a Chinese Buddhist temple. It's a relatively recent temple, just under thirty years old. On either side, a row of 25 standing Buddhas welcomes us.
Puu Shih Jin |
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The Buddha of the Past, the Present, and the Future |
On stocking feet we shuffle across the shiny brown tiles of the prayer hall. There are no worshippers present. Three gilded Buddhas gaze down at us from the colourful altar wall—the Buddha of the Past, the Present, and the Future. A panel behind glass lists the names of the generous donors, ranked in descending order, with the largest donation at the top – 200 000 ringgit, or over € 44 000.
Sandakan, Sea of Sulu
The view over sunny Sandakan and its harbour is impressive. Agnes Keith must have thought so too when she settled on this hill in a beautiful colonial home. She gained fame with her book Land Below the Wind, in which she describes pre-war North Borneo and its people with much humour and empathy. Since then, that poetic title has become the unofficial motto of Sabah, the province located just south of the notorious typhoon zone.
Agnes Keith's House
The beautiful colonial house that we enter shortly after eleven is not the original building. The Keiths found it in ruins when they returned after more than three years of Japanese captivity. However, they rebuilt their home in the same style, on exactly the same spot.
The large, square bed is deliberately placed in the center – like an island in the sea, with furniture that seems to have washed up against the walls
On the ground floor, the large, open space is divided only by a wide staircase. Photos from before and after the war hang on the walls. In the bedroom on the first floor, the large, square bed is deliberately placed in the center—like an island in the sea, as Agnes explains in one of her letters, with furniture that seems to have washed up against the walls.
Sim Sim – Stilt house
It's half-past eleven when we arrive at Seagull Sea Transport in Sim Sim. For the rest of the day, we’ll be travelling by water. First, we’ll cover about twenty kilometres over the sea to the mouth of the Kinabatangan River, and then travel approximately seventy kilometres upstream along the river. A nearly untouched nature reserve, teeming with native wildlife, awaits us there. Meanwhile, Sam will take a detour through the inland with the bus and meet us in Sukau.
Along the coast of Sabah
When you think of a stilt village, you might expect rickety conditions, dilapidated roofs, and rotting planks. But nothing could be further from the truth. The water village of Sim Sim looks far more comfortable than our Western preconceptions might suggest. While the houses are not luxurious, they don't fall short compared to those on the mainland. They stand on sturdy concrete stilts and seem storm-resistant. Neat concrete pathways, bordered by metal railings, connect the houses. A wealth of flowers and plants adorns the balconies, colourful laundry flutters in the wind, and satellite dishes gaze expectantly at the blue sky.
Sulu Sea – Fish in the slipstream of the boat
Half an hour later, we set sail in two covered boats, leaving the bay. Countless boats are anchored haphazardly across the bay. Once we’re out in the open sea, skipper Jennar steers eastward. At full speed, the two 85-horsepower engines propel us swiftly along the coast. Silver fish are helplessly tossed above water in the slipstream of the fast-moving boat.
Mouth of the Kinabatangan River |
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Oriental darter |
Then, the mouth of the Kinabatangan River, the longest river in Sabah, comes into view. Majestically, it meanders through the jungle, spanning dozens of meters in width. On both sides, a towering wall of greenery rises far above our heads. With each bend, the vegetation changes, with mangrove thickets on the inside of the bends and nipa palms on the outside – where nutrients are washed ashore.
Sometimes, proboscis monkeys can be seen in these mangrove thickets, but they quickly make their escape. A few kites also take flight, startled by the noise of our roaring engines, abandoning their perch on a barren branch.
Houses along the Kinabatangan River
An Indian darter gazes out over the surroundings, undisturbed. Perched high on a bare tree, it remains unfazed by our commotion. When hunting for prey in the water, only its slender neck rises above the surface like a snake, which accounts for its colloquial name of snakebird. Often, you'll find it sitting on a branch, drying its wings like a cormorant.
The Muslim village of Abai lies peacefully in the middle of the jungle, entirely encircled by a loop of the Kinabatangan. It's a quarter past one – lunchtime.
But first the river has another surprise in store for us. And what a surprise it is. In the dense undergrowth on the left bank, an elephant has been spotted – a truly incredible stroke of luck, as these rare animals are almost never seen.
First glimpse of the Borneo pygmy elephant
Jennar gently maneuvers his boat toward the riverbank. The dense undergrowth makes it difficult to spot the elephant. We catch only fleeting glimpses – a wrinkled patch of skin, the base of its tail, a flapping ear.
Four boats crowd the shore, vying for position. The unusual commotion, with its strange scents, seems to unsettle the elephant. It briefly trumpets in response. However, we don’t move any closer, which seems to put it at ease.
Our patience is rewarded. Gradually, the solitary elephant steps into a small clearing, revealing itself in full profile. It’s a relatively small animal compared to its African counterparts, with short, straight tusks. Normally, these elephants live in groups. This one, however, appears to have been left behind due to its injured leg.
It’s a relatively small animal compared to its African counterparts, with short, straight tusks
Borneo pygmy elephant
The origins of Borneo's elephants remained shrouded in mystery for a long time. It's a historical fact that in 1750, the Sultan of Sulu received a gift of elephants from the Dutch East India Company. He then had them transported to Borneo, where they were released into the wild. This led to the hypothesis that the current population descends from those animals, which seemed plausible.
However, in 2003, mitochondrial DNA research revealed that Borneo's elephants have been evolving independently for at least 300 000 years. Moreover, they have been in geographical isolation for the last 18 000 years. This makes them an authentic, native species – the Borneo pygmy elephant.
We arrive at Abai Jungle Lodge for our lunch half an hour later than expected, approximately 25 km from the coast. This location can only be reached via the river.
To this snake, a warm-blooded mammal in the dark is as conspicuous as neon lights in a dark street to us
Wagler's Pit Viper
A wrist-thick snake lies motionless on a branch amidst the foliage. It is bright green with pale and dark rings around its body. This creature is known as Wagler's pit viper, a member of the pit viper family. It can wait for hours for its prey – rodents, birds, lizards – killing them with its venom. With its remarkable pit organs, located between its eyes and nostrils, it can detect temperature differences as small as 0,003 °C (0,0054 °F). To this snake, a warm-blooded mammal in the dark is as conspicuous as neon lights in a dark street to us.
We continue our journey upstream across the wide, chocolate-coloured river. We still have 37 km to go until we reach our final destination, Sukau.
The boats race swiftly over the river, their bows lifted steeply above the water's surface, leaving a wild wake of splashing foam behind them. The speed only slows when we approach settlements, as the waves could damage the jetties and toilets of the stilt houses.
Proboscis monkey (m)
High above the river, an eagle circles, likely searching for prey. To a proboscis monkey perched in a bare tree it’s easier to access food – the leaves are within easy reach. The male monkey completely ignores us.
Proboscis monkey (m)
Majestically, a lesser adjutant glides through the air. Its long, yellowish neck is bare, but it isn’t a scavenger. Instead, its diet consists of fish, frogs, reptiles, and even rodents. And those poor little mudskippers, alas.
Long-tailed macaque
A tree trunk hangs low over the river. A dozen long-tailed macaques are busily chattering away about everything and nothing. That includes us as we approach.
Hindus regard it as the messenger of Brahma
Brahminy kite
Right above our heads, a brahminy kite spreads its chestnut-brown wings, spanning over a meter wide. Hindus regard it as the messenger of Brahma. Although it belongs to the hawk family and is a bird of prey, it primarily feeds on dead fish and crabs. However, when the opportunity arises, it’s not above snatching a hare or a bat.
Sukau – Kinabatangan Riverside Lodge
A dense cloud cover seems to be approaching from the south. Right at four o’clock, we dock at the Kinabatangan Riverside Lodge in Sukau. A spacious terrace overlooks the jetty and the river, while comfortable chalets are nestled in the shade of the trees, connected by a network of wooden walkways. Fans provide a gentle breeze.
Not only are our bags waiting for us in our rooms, but our sarongs are also laid out. According to Zek, we’re expected to come to dinner later without shoes but wearing sarongs. He promptly demonstrates how to tie a sarong, explaining that women do it differently than men. Our body language exudes enthusiasm.
Just before five o’clock we head out on two open boats for our evening cruise. We’re immediately rewarded. On the riverbank, in a tree with relatively few leaves, a handful of proboscis monkeys are settling in for the night. The low sun generously casts its warm glow over the scene. We couldn’t ask for a better setting. We lean back, fascinated, and observe the spectacle unfolding about ten meters above our heads.
We lean back, fascinated, and observe the spectacle unfolding about ten meters above our heads
Proboscis Monkeys – Female with Baby
A female proboscis monkey, with her baby clinging to her chest, climbs up the tree. She is searching for a quiet spot to settle down for the night. All the while, the curious youngster never loses sight of those strange creatures in the boats for a second.
Proboscis monkey (m) |
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Proboscis monkeys – Young males |
A few young males then appear. They seem distrustful and cast wary glances downward.
Finally, the dominant male makes his appearance – with a huge nose, an impressive belly, and a tail of about a meter long. He clearly notices us but seems unimpressed. He stares at us aggressively, but we won't budge.
The message is clear – he is the dominant male, no one else is in charge here
Proboscis monkey – Dominant male
Confidently, he positions himself on a heavy branch against the tree trunk. There he sits, legs spread wide, with his bright red, erect penis and jet-black scrotum conspicuously facing us. The message is clear: he is the dominant male. No one else is in charge here. Anyone who bothers his females will have to deal with him.
Proboscis monkey – Dominant male |
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Proboscis monkeys – Young males |
Less conspicuous is the handful of hornbills huddled together further up in a tree. They are called oriental pied hornbills, although they have black and white feathers and a pale, ivory-coloured casque, while the more common hornbill we’ve seen has a colourful, orange-red casque.
Oriental pied hornbill
They hang curved over the branch, nibbling on unripe fruit. That’s the favourite food of these hornbills, though they also enjoy a frog or a lizard.
Oriental pied hornbills
Nothing escapes our boatman, not even the python that lies motionless and nearly invisible among the foliage. However, we ourselves are unable to spot it.
Crab-eating macaque – Female with young
As the sun sinks low above the trees, we navigate the narrow passage into an oxbow lake. The banks of the narrow creek are so close together, and the vegetation rises so high above our heads, that it sometimes feels as though we are drifting through a green tunnel.
Sometimes it feels as though we are drifting through a green tunnel
Kinabatangan
The channel then widens into a shallow lake. In a reddish glow, the sun disappears behind the trees. A heron surveys the water, while a few plovers peck around in the mud.
Oxbow lake
A blue-eared kingfisher perches proudly on a broken branch of a tree that juts out from the water. With its dark orange belly and dark blue back, it resembles the common kingfisher, but it is the blue ears that set it apart.
The silhouette of a bare tree sharply contrasts with the pale sky. A dozen proboscis monkeys have settled there. Apparently, this is their sleeping tree for the night. Like ornaments on a Christmas tree, the harem group is distributed across the tree – the young on the ends of the branches, the females closer to the trunk, and the dominant male at the centre.
This is the safest place to spend the night. In a bare tree, you have the best chance of spotting an intruder approaching in time. The vibrations of the branches can also betray the attacker. The females always sleep facing the trunk because if danger arises, it will likely come from that direction – a python, for example.
Our presence causes a commotion – even though we are floating several meters below on the water. Nervously, some of the young begin to move towards the centre.
In a bare tree, you have the best chance of spotting an intruder approaching in time
Proboscis monkeys in a sleeping tree
The dominant male also feels the need to assert himself and braces for any potential threat. In this group, he is the undisputed leader. He expels young males from the group two to three years after their birth, as he does not tolerate competition. These expelled males typically join bachelor groups, as living in a group offers greater safety. As they grow stronger, they will attempt to acquire their own harem by displacing an older male from his group.
By the time we dock at the lodge just after seven, the sun has already set behind the horizon. The saffron-yellow western horizon is reflected like a layer of golden varnish on the rippling water.
Sometimes, they choose sleeping trees that are relatively close together, leading harem females to occasionally visit neighbouring males
It’s time to wrap ourselves in our sarongs and catch a short film. The film features proboscis monkeys. We learn, among other things, that the separation between harem groups is not as strict as in other species. This is largely due to their habitat. Sometimes, they choose sleeping trees that are relatively close together, leading harem females to occasionally visit neighbouring males.
Tuesday, April 5 | Sukau
It’s not even half past six when the sun, low above the trees, gears up for yet another sweltering day, casting an orange-red glow on the eastern horizon. The gold-brown river releases a bit of excess heat in thin mists.
Dawn on the Kinabatangan
Our morning cruise takes us into the Menanggul, a narrow tributary of the Kinabatangan. On either side, an impenetrable wall of trees and shrubs rises dozens of meters high. Amidst this dense vegetation, a delicate morning mist clings briefly to the water. It won’t last long, as sunlight already sparkles in the calm brown water.
Morning mist over the Menanggul
The water is quite low, leaving fish traps dry and unused. A monitor lizard wanders along the shore, its blue tongue extending a good ten centimetres from its mouth. On a twig, a blue-eared kingfisher enjoys the early rays of sunshine. Its beak is black, indicating it’s a male – females have an orange beak.
In the calm water, a few ripples appear
Blue-eared kingfisher (m) |
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Crocodile |
In the calm water, a few ripples appear. A crocodile glides majestically through the water, its eyes and snout barely breaking the surface. It is visible for just a moment before vanishing again.
Monitor Lizard
High up in a tree, an orangutan has been spotted. It is a solitary male, as it turns out. The dark foliage makes it difficult to get a clear view of our first wild orangutan. A cuckoo flies low past us.
Orangutan in the wild
It may never win a beauty contest, but the large frogmouth, deeply hidden among the foliage on its nest, is a significant find. It takes some effort before we manage to get a good view of this rare bird, a member of the nightjar family. For Zek, this is a moment of great excitement, as it is the first time he has seen this elusive species.
It may never win a beauty contest, this large frogmouth
Large frogmouth
With a frog-like beak, fuzzy hairs on its head, and strange white spots on its body, this bird isn’t exactly a beauty queen. It might have been put together on a dreary Monday morning. However, its unusual broad beak is quite useful as it feeds on insects. It is a male sitting on the nest while the female brings food. At night, their roles reverse, with the male hunting and the female incubating the eggs.
Oriental dollarbird |
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Long-tailed macaque |
Speaking of unusual birds, the blue-green roller with a red beak that we spot perched on the tip of a bare tree is known here as a dollarbird. The spots on the underside of its wings are said to resemble silver dollars. Its specialty is snatching flying insects from the air. When it spots an opportunity, it will dart out swiftly and then return to the same branch. But for now, it remains hidden from view, and its beautiful white spots stay concealed.
Crested serpent eagle
Directly above us, a crested serpent eagle surveys its hunting grounds. Snakes and lizards had better be on alert, as its penetrating yellow eyes miss nothing.
Long-tailed macaque |
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In the early sun, the long-tailed macaques have settled in a tree for breakfast. One climbs up a thick, bare tree trunk and inspects hollows in search of tasty treats, while another slurps water from the river.
Unmoved, a bronzed drongo, with its glossy blue-black feathers, observes the scene. Despite its calm appearance, it can be quite aggressive when it comes to defending its territory, even against larger intruders.
Among the undergrowth, we spot a Malaysian blue flycatcher, a small blue bird with an orange chest and white belly. Although unfamiliar to us, it is quite common in this region.
As if on cue, the cicadas begin a massive farewell concert. Just for us
At exactly eight o'clock, we turn right. As if on cue, the singing cicadas begin a massive farewell concert, just for us.
Menangul
A delicious breakfast awaits us at the lodge. Between the chalets, a semi-tame pied hornbill is hanging around, seemingly unafraid of human presence. A light cloud cover tempers the sun.
Shortly after half-past nine, we leave the paradisiacal Sukau behind.
Jaak Palmans
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