A past that won't let go

Argentina | Anno 2015

 

Sunday 12 July | Buenos Aires

 

 

Sunday 12 July | Buenos Aires

Outside, it is still pitch dark. Only a faint strip of light on the distant horizon holds the promise of dawn. Lightning flashes create ghostly light patterns in the clouds above southern Brazil. To avoid turbulence, the pilot maintains an altitude of 11,600 meters. Yet, the turbulent air layers above Uruguay still give us trouble.

Gradually, the dawn catches up with us. Shortly after eight, we land at the misty Aeropuerto Internacional de Ezeiza Ministro Pistarini, about 22 kilometres southwest of Buenos Aires, and set our watches back five hours. It will be an ultra-short visit to the capital of Argentina, no more than a superficial taste, we realize. For tomorrow, we will immediately travel to the far northwest corner of the country, about thirteen hundred kilometres from here.

It is actually a Flemish person waiting for us to be our guide. Karel is his name, from 2001 to 2007, he worked for the Belgian embassy. After his retirement, he stayed in Buenos Aires. As a city guide, he now shares his years of experience with visitors from abroad. An experience that gives his view of this country and its inhabitants a sardonic tinge, as will quickly become apparent. He is certainly not shy about making offensive statements.

Argentina ranks eighth in the world, or as large as Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Benelux, Germany, France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal combined

Driver Elvio immediately sets off with his Marcopolo bus. On this chilly, grey Sunday morning, traffic in the capital is quite calm. Elections are approaching, and posters are everywhere.

The city of Buenos Aires forms a separate area within the province of Buenos Aires, Karel explains. While the city has 3.5 million inhabitants, and the metropolitan area 14 million, the country has 43 million.

With an area of 2,780,400 square kilometres, Argentina ranks eighth in the world. A dimension that is barely comprehensible to us – more than 90 times the size of Belgium, or as large as Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Benelux, Germany, France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal combined. If the Argentines were to spread out evenly across their country, you would find an average of fifteen people per square kilometre. But that is not the case, as the barren Patagonia is barely inhabited. One-third of all Argentines huddle together in the metropolitan area.

When the Spaniards appeared off the coast in 1526, they were obsessed with the idea that silver could be found here. They named the river Río de la Plata, the River of Silver, and the country they called Argentina, after the Latin word argentum for silver.

Eventually, the Spaniards clashed with the indigenous population to such an extent that they had to flee

For two to three years, the Spaniards managed not to cause too much trouble, but eventually, they clashed with the indigenous population to such an extent that they had to flee. Half a century later, in 1580, they reappeared. This time from the interior, via the Paraná through Paraguay and Uruguay. And they had come to stay. Where the famous Plaza de Mayo is now located, they founded Buenos Aires. Gradually, separate neighbourhoods or barrios developed, with San Telmo as the first.

The first call to drive out the Spaniards was heard on 25 May 1810. After all, they had failed to protect the inhabitants of Buenos Aires from a British invasion. The uprising lasted ten years. Generals like José de San Martín and Martín Miguel de Güemes secured eternal fame in the struggle for independence. San Martín, in particular, still scores high in popularity rankings.

For nearly half a century, the young independent state was plagued by instability and civil wars until a period of great prosperity began around 1860. This would last until 1920. A massive wave of immigration from Europe began – many Italians, with corruption and the Mafia in tow, as Karel does not fail to note. In 1860, Buenos Aires had 60,000 inhabitants; by 1920, there were two million. About half stayed – the others left after discovering they also had to work for a living here, Karel cynically adds. The United States was a popular destination for those who left. At that time, about 10,000 Belgians lived in Argentina; today, there are 5,000.

The Paraná delta is the third largest in the world – though it does not empty into the sea

Immigrants arrived in large boats that could only sail a short distance up the Río de la Plata. It is a funnel-shaped estuary, the result of the confluence of the Paraná and the Uruguay rivers, a few dozen kilometres northwest of Buenos Aires. Few people know this, but the Paraná delta is the third largest in the world – though it does not empty into the sea. Here, the Río de la Plata is 50 kilometres wide; further down the coast, it widens to 250 kilometres. The Jan de Nul Group has its hands full keeping a 100-meter shipping channel open with its dredging boats. Buenos Aires is therefore not on the sea, as is sometimes thought.

Immigrants were therefore forced to transfer to small boats. They were then disembarked in the barrio La Boca, literally The Mouth. Initially, it was mainly men who dared to take the adventure. The sanitary conditions in the barrio were appalling; in 1870, cholera and yellow fever broke out. Those who could afford it moved to La Recoleta, a better neighbourhood.

The sanitary conditions in the barrio were appalling

Kick Greece out of the Eurozone, have them reintroduce and devalue the drachma, and let them struggle until they are out of the crisis. That's how Karel would solve the Greek crisis currently plaguing the European Union in one fell swoop. That may seem drastic, but that's precisely how the Argentines had to do it, he adds dryly. After all, they could not count on financial help from the IMF, the ECB, or the EU.

That being said, we find ourselves catapulted from the year 1870 to the year 2001. When the population was subjected to severe economic measures on 1 December of that year – Karel had only been on his job for a few months – the bomb exploded. From then on, Argentines were only allowed to withdraw a maximum of 250 pesos per week from their accounts – about 60 US dollars on the open market – and no dollars at all. They called the measure Corralito, a term you could freely translate as the wooden playpen in which parents sometimes put their toddlers to prevent them from causing havoc. The Argentines felt financially caged.

It didn't take long before tens of thousands gathered to protest on the Plaza de Mayo on December 19 and 20, storming the presidential palace. The army fired live ammunition, killing 33 people. President de la Rúa resigned and left his palace – by helicopter, of course.

In the two weeks that followed, no less than four presidents stumbled over each other

In the two weeks that followed, no less than four presidents stumbled over each other. The peso, until then equivalent to the dollar, was devalued to a quarter of a dollar. Nowadays, it is even less. The official dollar rate is 9 pesos; on the black market, it goes up to 11 or even 12 pesos. But between 2003 and 2007, the Argentine economy grew by 9% each year, Karel notes.

 

Congreso de la Nación Argentina (parliament building)

A cross between St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City and the Capitol in Washington – that’s how you could describe the Congreso de la Nación Argentina, the Palace of the Argentine National Congress. This imposing structure is located at the end of Avenida Callao, a boulevard with strong French influences.

Argentina is sometimes referred to as the most European country in South America

Observing the people on the street, you mostly see European features. Argentina is therefore sometimes referred to as the most European country in South America. Unlike other parts of South America, you will rarely see indigenous features here. Jews form an important part of the population. In fact, numerically, the Jewish community in Argentina ranks fourth worldwide. Muslims are also well represented, but you won’t notice anyone wearing a veil or burqa. On the other hand, you will hardly notice any black people. In saying so, Karel somewhat ignores the observation that former black slaves in Argentina were used quite readily as cannon fodder and saw their numbers decimated in the turbulent nineteenth century.

 

Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar

We pause briefly at the historic café La Biela, which has been a prominent establishment since 1850, and then we head down to the Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar from 1732. It is a richly adorned church, with an impressive silver altarpiece. Confession is still very much practiced here. Men take a position directly in front of the priest, without any partition, while women do so from the side, behind a lattice window.

 

Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar

Opus Dei is strongly represented here. It is therefore not surprising that there is a statue of Josemaría Escrivá, the founder of Opus Dei. However, it is surprising that he has to share the space with Mother Teresa.

The Père-Lachaise of Buenos Aires, that’s what they sometimes call the Cementerio de la Recoleta. The walled cemetery of Recoleta, once the most aristocratic neighbourhood of the city, is packed with exuberant mausoleums. Each one is a showpiece. Recent and old family graves stand shoulder to shoulder. You’ll search in vain for the names or death dates of individuals; only the family names are displayed.

The Père-Lachaise of Buenos Aires, that’s what they sometimes call the Cementerio de la Recoleta

Cementerio de la Recoleta

A funeral in this country doesn’t take long. Within 24 hours, you're under the sod – or in your mausoleum. At the entrance of the cemetery, a few carts are ready to depart. New residents therefore need not worry; they can be quickly transported to their final destination.

Wealthy families are fond of securing a spot in this cemetery. Old graves are eagerly traded. Some plots sell for $250,000. Yes, two hundred fifty thousand dollars. Before the new family uses the grave, it gets a refurbishment. Including WiFi, so you can stay online when you come to visit your late grandpa.

Graves include WiFi, so you can stay online when you come to visit your late grandpa

Cementerio de la Recoleta

Many famous people have found a resting place here, such as General Ezeiza, who gave his name to the location where the international airport now stands.

There was something very peculiar about Rufina Cambaceres. In 1902, she was found dead on her nineteenth birthday and was buried that same night. But when maintenance workers heard strange knocking sounds from the grave the next day, it turned out Rufina was alive and kicking. Literally. She was rescued from her precarious position, resumed her life, but died a week later for a second time. For good this time. On the outside of the family grave, she is depicted as a young girl hesitantly stepping out from behind a door.

Imagine if the myth were shattered

Tomb of the Duarte family…

…including Eva Perón

Evita is also said to be buried here – Eva Perón, wife of Juan Perón and posthumous musical icon. The conditional tense is not used in vain here because after her death in 1952, her body was so mishandled that one cannot even be sure that the real Evita is buried here. DNA analysis could provide clarity, but no one wants to pursue that. Imagine if the myth were shattered.

She was a controversial figure, according to Karel, not averse to corruption. Evita’s popularity is mostly found among foreigners. You notice this every time a cruise ship docks in the harbour. Immediately, a long line forms in the scorching sun to visit the grave. But not today, as we practically have the modest grave to ourselves.

Just before eleven, we move on. We had never heard of a generic flower, a Floralis Genérica, but then again, we are not as passionate an architect as Eduardo Catalano. After the 2001 crisis, he wanted to lift the spirits of the much-plagued Argentinians. So, he designed this mechanical flower, a colossal structure 23 meters tall and weighing 18 tons, which was meant to symbolize all the flowers in the world – hence the strange name. At sunrise, the six colossal petals open automatically, and at sunset, they close. At least, that was the idea. It turned into an ordeal, as first the government refused to finance it, and then the technology failed. In 2004, all problems seemed to be resolved. However, since then, the flower has mostly been out of order. It’s only been operational again for two weeks.

The proximity of the public law university prompts Karel to reflect on the poor quality of primary and secondary education in Argentina. He doesn’t think much of the university education either. However, the law faculty holds its ground because evening classes are offered. Judges and lawyers provide pro bono training after their day jobs. In turn, these students work for those judges and lawyers because they need money. So, it’s a win-win situation.

San Martín, in particular, still scores high in popularity rankings

Statue of José de San Martín

On our way to the chic Palermo neighbourhood, we pass the statue of José de San Martín on Mariscal Ramón Castilla. Like a fatherly Lincoln, he sits in a chair, with children looking up at him. More than a century and a half after his death, he is still immensely popular here. His role in the liberation of Chile, Peru, and Ecuador was decisive. In 1813, he defeated the Spaniards at San Lorenzo. Although that victory had little impact on the further course of the war of independence, San Martín’s fame was established.

In 1817, he became the governor of Mendoza, close to the Chilean border. He promptly gathered an army and, like a modern Hannibal, crossed the Andes to drive the Spaniards out of Chile. Apparently, he developed a taste for it, as he then moved northward to expel the Spaniards from Peru and Ecuador as well. However, he did not respond to the plea to return to Argentina and end the civil war. The idea of his soldiers firing on Argentine civilians was not something he could accept.

San Martín instead left for Europe and surprisingly turned up in Brussels in 1830. Even Belgians sought his help – the celebrated general was asked if he would assist them in their struggle against the Dutch. San Martín declined that as well. Nevertheless, he was honoured with an equestrian statue in Sint-Pieters-Woluwe, Brussels. Karel smirks, noting that likely no one in Belgium knows who that strange fellow on horseback is. San Martín eventually died in France. In 1880, his body was repatriated and buried in the Catedral Metropolitana in Buenos Aires. However, it was in a side chapel, as there was a strong suspicion that the beloved San Martín was a Freemason.

Nevertheless, he was honoured with an equestrian statue in Sint-Pieters-Woluwe, Brussels

Meanwhile, via Adolfo Berro Avenida, we have arrived in a neighbourhood with posh residences belonging to ambassadors – not the embassies, but the private homes of the ambassadors. Among others, we pass by those of Belgium, Saudi Arabia, Indonesia, and the extremely poor Haiti.

In 1910, one hundred years of independence from Spain had to be celebrated. Spain, the former colonizer, was not too shy to erect a Monumento de los Españoles. But the pompous structure on a roundabout along Avenida del Libertador seems somewhat incomplete. This is not a coincidence, as the monument was entirely made in Spain. During the crossing, one of the boats tragically sank, and the upper part of the column rests forever on the seabed.

The Germans also contributed, beit only in 1912, at Plaza Alemanía. The French showcased their homage at Plaza Francia. But searching for a monument from the Belgians is in vain.

 

Plaza Evita – Statue of Eva Perón

In the meantime, we did manage to spot a statue of the controversial Eva Duarte under the trees at Plaza Evita – absolutely the only statue of Evita in Buenos Aires, Karel emphasizes. That’s at least one more statue than of her husband, President Juan Perón. It has become a dynamic statue, of a young woman in full motion.

The chicest avenue in Buenos Aires, that’s what Avenida Alvear is sometimes called. Not so long ago, that was indeed the case. But today, stores like Cartier's are sadly and desolately empty. The government, after all, requires them to export as much as they import, and they refuse to comply. With empty showcases, they are waiting for the political tides to turn.

 

Avenida 9 de Julio – Obelisco

We can easily accept that Avenida 9 de Julio is very wide, but calling it the widest avenue in the world seems a bold claim. The Obelisco at the intersection with Avenida Corrientes dates back to 1936. If the porteños – the residents of Buenos Aires – have something to celebrate, this is the place where they gather. Most of the time, it has something to do with football. On the other hand, if they want to express their discontent, they gather at Plaza de Mayo.

With empty showcases, they are waiting for the political tides to turn

Driver Elvio drops us off at Plaza de Mayo, the square that became world-famous thanks to the Madres de Plaza de Mayo. Every week, these so-called crazy mothers came here to protest against the fact that their children had disappeared during the dirty war under the military dictatorship between 1976 and 1983.

The credit these mothers had built up has been lost since they cheered for the 9/11 and Charlie Hebdo attacks. They are stuck in communism, Karel scoffs. Their leader even lost two sons in terrorist attacks on political offices – and she’s still proud of it.

Just two years ago, this was the workplace of Jorge Mario Bergoglio, the current Pope Francis I

Plaza de Mayo – Catedral Metropolitana

Karel also questions the number of missing people typically cited by the crazy mothers and humanitarian organizations – 30,000. He considers the estimate of 8,961, used in Nunca Más, the official report of the national commission that investigated the fate of missing persons, to be closer to the truth. Although he readily admits that this figure still implies that the number of missing persons was very large. But, he does not fail to mention cynically, quite a few of these missing people are hiding abroad, so their families can collect compensation.

 

Catedral Metropolitana

The Metropolitan Cathedral on the north side of the plaza is not particularly remarkable. Just two years ago, this was the workplace of Jorge Mario Bergoglio, the current Pope Francis I. Inside, the grand tomb of San Martín commands the most public attention by far. The military achievements of the popular general are etched in marble.

 

Catedral Metropolitana – Guardia

Tomb of San Martín

For years, veterans of the Falklands War have had their camp set up on the Plaza. They want a decent pension, but the government denies their entitlement and has won the case in court. Since then, their numbers have dwindled significantly, but a handful refuse to leave, according to Karel.

 

Casa Rosada (presidential palace)

The gleaming white Cabildo dates back to 1610. During colonial times, the city council held its meetings there, and today the building functions as a museum. Across the street, the Casa Rosada draws attention. After the events of 2001, a second fence was erected around the modest, pink presidential palace. It’s meant to keep excited crowds at a distance.

Perhaps the most charming neighbourhood in Buenos Aires is San Telmo. Amidst the stately homes and cobblestone streets, the colonial era doesn't feel far off. We stroll along the stalls of the Sunday market. In the Patio Ezeiza, a large family once lived with their staff. Now it houses the Pasaje de la Defensa, a modest shopping gallery.

Things are quite different in La Boca. It’s a place where you definitely don’t want to be, says Karel – kidnappings, thefts, drugs, and gang confrontations are a daily occurrence. After 4 pm, you won't even find a taxi willing to go there.

Amidst the stately homes and cobblestone streets, the colonial era doesn't feel far off

Yet, that’s exactly what we’re about to do – visit La Boca. Such a visit is a must, after all. This is where the first immigrants settled. Exactly three streets are heavily guarded by police, so tourism has a chance – an artificial enclave of calm in a ghetto of violence, it seems.

By the way, Boca Juniors, the football team where Diego Maradona once excelled, is also based here. The football stadium is very small, with steep stands, Karel notes. When a player from the visiting team takes a corner kick, police officers protect him with shields against projectiles from the crowd. At least when there is a crowd present, because many matches have to be played behind closed doors due to the chronic trouble. You’ll never notice fans of visiting teams here. In this neighbourhood, they wouldn’t risk their health.

An artificial enclave of calm in a ghetto of violence, it seems

La Boca

Walking down Calle Caminito, we pass by the colourful conventillos – small tenement buildings with bright facades, where single men or entire families rent rooms. Large, three-dimensional figures adorn the facades. Once, it was the likeness of Maradona that set the tone here; today, it's Pope Francis who steals the show.

 

La Boca

Restaurants proudly display their terraces. A festively dressed couple dances a sultry tango between the tables to attract customers. Better not eat here, Karel sneers, because it inevitably leads to trouble when it's time to pay.

 

La Boca

Tango

It’s precisely in this area that we exchange money. In no time, the change appears on the table at the best rate – 13.5 pesos for a euro, 12 for a dollar. We take a quick look at the Vuelta de Rocha, the wide bend in the Río Matanza-Riachuelo where the immigrants arrived.

It's 1:30 pm when we drive through impoverished slums to Puerto Madero, a brand-new neighbourhood bursting with skyscrapers. Until 2004, there wasn't a single building here. Where the money suddenly came from, no one knows, Karel scoffs. That he suggests black money from drugs and other illicit activities as the obvious explanation no longer surprises us.

It was precisely in one of those skyscrapers that, on 18 January, the body of prosecutor Alberto Nisman was found – just hours before he was due to present his highly incriminating case against President Cristina Fernández de Kirchner in parliament. The country was in uproar, but Kirchner weathered the storm. Her explanation was that the man had realized his case was baseless and had therefore taken his own life.

Until 2004, there wasn't a single building here

Puerto Madero – Frigate Sarmiento

Puerto Madero – Puente de la Mujer

Pedestrians peacefully stroll across the cable-stayed Puente de la Mujer. A bit further along, the frigate Sarmiento is docked. It's a navy training ship, the local version of the Belgian Mercator. With that, we conclude the guided city tour.

Doesn’t your cynical framing create too one-sided an image of Argentina, is our last question to Karel. Corruption is a massive problem in this country, he insists. But there are indeed also hopeful initiatives that are widely respected. Take, for example, the Abuelas de Plaza de Mayo, the grandmothers of the Plaza de Mayo – who, by the way, are at odds with the mothers of the Plaza de Mayo.

These grandmothers are searching for the children of their daughters and daughters-in-law who were pregnant when they too disappeared during the dirty war. After their birth, these babies were adopted by wealthy families. Through newspaper appeals and DNA analysis, the grandmothers have already identified around a hundred grandchildren.

However, not all adopted grandchildren want to be identified – Karel wouldn’t be Karel if he didn’t also find something to criticize here. After all, such a grandchild from affluent backgrounds might end up with a biological family from the slums. And they want only one thing – money.

 

El Ateneo

For a theatrical lunch, we search for El Ateneo. It's a bookstore, or, more accurately, a theatre converted into a bookstore. The sumptuous balconies rise three stories high. Heavy red curtains cover the stage. But the stage has taken on a special role – it’s been turned into a restaurant, where we gladly settle in.

 

Coffeehouse Tortoni

The drizzling rain doesn’t stop us from taking a final walk through the city centre. Specifically, we head to Avenida de Mayo, where Tortoni claims to embody the archetypal porteño café. The coffeehouse dates back to 1858, but it only began to gain fame in 1926 when a group of writers, painters, musicians, and journalists made it their regular spot.

It’s packed inside. We wait in line for about twenty minutes in the rain before we can follow in the footsteps of Jorge Luis Borges, Albert Einstein, Juan Manuel Fangio, and Hillary Clinton, and marvel at the lavish Art Nouveau interior – the colourful stained-glass windows, the classic chandeliers, the imposing pillars, and the many photos, drawings, and paintings on the walls.

 

Galerías Pacífico

In the pouring rain, we continue on to the Galerías Pacífico on Avenida Córdoba. It’s a popular spot, both for tourists and porteños. It effortlessly combines the grandeur of the late 19th century with the flashy style a shopping centre needs in the 21st century.

 

Galerías Pacífico

The rain is still pouring down on the sidewalks as we pick up the pace, heading back to the hotel. It’s barely 8 pm when we close the door to our hotel room behind us and collapse exhausted onto the bed.

Tomorrow, we will already leave the overcast Buenos Aires behind, in search of the unparalleled cañόns and quebradas that the northwest is so famous for. The pace there is slower than in Buenos Aires – enjoy it, Karel told us. We will certainly do that.

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Jaak Palmans
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Along cañóns and quebradas

For a different perspective on Buenos Aires, read

Evita, Maradona, Bergoglio and the others