The smoke that thunders

Zimbabwe – Zambia | Anno 2014

 

Sunday, July 20 | Mazambala Island – Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe)

Monday, July 21 | Victoria Falls (Zambia) – Livingstone

 

 

Sunday, July 20 | Mazambala Island – Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe)

We almost forgot about them. For nearly fourteen days, we've been touring the border region around the quadripoint between Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, and Namibia, but we haven’t given the Victoria Falls, the top attraction of this area, the slightest attention. However, today that will change. From Mazambala Island in Namibia’s Caprivi Strip, we’ll head towards Victoria Falls via Botswana.

 

The eastern horizon is bathed in the copper glow of the rising sun while our catamarans sail north along the Kwando

It is seven o'clock when our catamarans leave the jetties of Mazambala Island Lodge and sail north along the Kwando. The eastern horizon is bathed in the copper glow of the rising sun, while high above, the moon shines brightly in its last quarter. Day and night together, jokes Harris. That takes some getting used to, as the first quarter is what we expect to see, not the last quarter. But in the southern hemisphere, the phases of the moon are reversed.

Barely twenty minutes later, bags, lunchboxes, and passengers are all settled into the Toyota Coaster XJ that has been waiting for us these past days. Our driver and guide, Robert, wastes no time, knowing we have two border crossings, four border controls, and one disinfection bath ahead.

With two border crossings, four border controls and one disinfection bath ahead, we know what to do

It takes just over two hours to reach the Ngoma border post between Namibia and Botswana. The Namibian formalities go smoothly – our exit stamps are in our passports in less than ten minutes. We cross the Chobe River and reluctantly prepare for Botswana's disinfectant baths, a precaution against the feared foot-and-mouth disease. Dutifully, we step through the bath and, following procedure, soak a second pair of shoes in the foul-smelling solution. A uniformed official watches closely to ensure we comply. Meanwhile, Robert drives the bus through a similar disinfectant bath.

Botswana's stamps appear quickly in our passports, and in less than forty minutes, we've completed the formalities on both sides of the border. Yet some armed soldiers still find it necessary to delay us for a while, but we are soon on our way again. The comfortable Golden Highway takes us swiftly eastward.

An hour later, we reach the Kazungula border post near the Quadripoint where Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Zambia meet, nearly 250 km from our starting point at Mazambala Island. The Botswanans don't put an inch in our way. But the Zimbabweans, that seems like a different story. A chaotic line stretches out in front of the immigration office. Thankfully, it’s quicker than it looks – a helpful officer takes our passports, and within three minutes, everything is sorted. By quarter to twelve, we're back on the road.

Wild animals roaming the streets at night is nothing unusual in this town

Victoria Falls – the town, not the falls – sits within the Victoria Falls National Park, Robert explains. It’s a bit confusing, but essentially, this means that soon the animals, not us, will be in charge. Wild animals roaming the streets at night is nothing unusual here. The rule is to stay indoors with windows closed after dark. It’s even possible we might encounter animals grazing around the hotel grounds, casually nibbling on a tree or bush.

 

The Victoria Falls Hotel

Forty-five thousand, that is the population of Victoria Falls. We cross a railway that Cecil Rhodes had built in his time. Once it was his dream to create a railway line from Cairo to Cape Town, thereby connecting the British colonial territories in Africa. We read on a plaque that Cairo is 8 264 km from here, and Cape Town is 2 635 km away.

 

Once it was Cecil Rhodes’ dream to create a railway line from Cairo to Cape Town, thereby connecting the British colonial territories in Africa

True colonial grandeur is what you will find at The Victoria Falls Hotel. Dating back to 1904, this grand old lady is the oldest in the city. Long, wide corridors with thick carpets, a sumptuous lounge, high walls in beige or ecru, impeccable uniforms quietly gliding through the halls, countless black-and-white photos on the pale walls, all testifying to a glorious past. And a remarkable cartoon by British satirist William Mecham, larger than life on the wall, where he humorously mocks the ease with which the British Empire ruled the world.

 

One of the famous cartoons by the British satirist William Mecham hangs larger than life on the wall

And not to be forgotten – a grand terrace with a view of the Victoria Falls Bridge and the enormous cloud of mist rising high above the falls. Even with the windows closed, the sound of the roaring water penetrates the room, though the falls are a kilometre and a half away. Mosi-oa-Tunya, The Smoke that Thunders, that’s what the local people call the plume of mist visible from miles away.

 

Mosi-oa-Tunya, The Smoke that Thunders, that’s what the local people call the plume of mist visible from miles away

That we are eager to finally see the falls up close seems entirely lost on Robert. Equipped with ponchos and umbrellas, we listen a little less patiently than usual to what he has to say. For example, about the Zambezi, which, at 2 700 km, is the fourth-longest river in Africa – after the Nile, Congo, and Niger. Downstream, the mighty river is blocked by several dams for electricity production.

The Victoria Falls are one of the seven natural wonders of the world, Robert continues, unfazed. Three-quarters of the falls are on Zimbabwean territory, one-quarter on Zambian land. Over a span of 1 708 meters, an average of 1,1 million litres of water plummets every second from heights ranging between 73 and 108 meters.

There are not just one, but six falls or cataracts, in fact – four in Zimbabwe, one in Zambia, and one straddling the border. Robert doesn't miss the chance to list them one by one – Devil’s Cataract (73 m high), the 500-meter-wide Main Falls (93 m) between Cataract Island and Livingstone Island, Horseshoe Falls (95 m), and Rainbow Falls (108 m) in Zimbabwe, Eastern Cataract (103 m) in Zambia, and Armchair Falls on the border. Next to Livingstone Island is the famous Devil’s Pool, where you can swim right at the edge of the falls in a natural hollow during the dry season. Excitement guaranteed, because sometimes more than just water falls down.

What distinguishes Victoria Falls from other waterfalls is the narrow gorge into which the water plunges. The resulting mist has only one escape – upward. This creates the kilometre-long plume rising 100 to 150 meters above the ground.

During the dry season, you can swim in the famous Devil’s Pool, a natural hollow right at the edge of the falls

The thunder of the water dominates everything, but a clear view of the falls eludes us for now. The permanent mist around the gorge creates a lush rainforest. Only where that forest recedes a little can you glimpse the spectacle. But as soon as the rainforest gives us our first peek, it's immediately breathtaking.

 

Zimbabwe – Victoria Falls

An unparalleled spectacle unfolds before our eyes. Through pale water mists in which the sun casts two rainbows, we look straight into the gorge. From the left, the water of Devil’s Cataract approaches as a turbulent white foam, below it swirls its way to the exit at the other end of the gorge. Clearly visible is the crack that is slowly but surely eating away at Cataract Island. Steadily, the water is grinding its way through the sandstone until it will be stopped by the hard basalt layer. A new gorge is in the making here.

David Livingstone’s heart is buried in Zambia, while the rest of his body was transported back to England

Devil's Cataract (front left) and Main Falls (centre)

Along a slippery metal staircase, we descend deeper into the gorge to get even closer to the spectacle. The damp air settles like a wet blanket on our shoulders. It feels as if we are standing in the grandstand of a colossal theatre, taking in the majestic scene. No one can imagine the beauty of the view from anything witnessed in England, declared Livingstone when he first saw the falls on November 16, 1855. We can only agree.

 

Devil’s Cataract

A true adventurer he was, this David Livingstone, but also an explorer, a missionary, and a doctor, Robert explains at the foot of his statue. Born in Glasgow in 1813, he died in 1873 in Zambia from malaria. His heart is buried there, while the rest of his body was transported back to England.

A short walk through the rainforest takes us directly opposite Cataract Island. During the rainy season – from November to March – the island is completely flooded.

It is expected that in about ten thousand years, we will be able to admire an entirely new gorge

Formation of a new gorge in Cataract Island

The gorge currently developing through Cataract Island illustrates how the waterfall is gradually retreating towards its source. From the air, you can already distinguish at least eight gorges. Each of these gorges once served as the stage for the waterfall. The cause of this phenomenon can be traced back to the basalt layer that began to show parallel cracks about 150 million years ago during cooling. These cavities filled with soft sandstone. However, the Zambezi is no match for this sandstone. The water steadily erodes the sandstone until it reaches the volcanic basalt below. The water cannot overcome this. Thus, the waterfall inexorably progresses from fault line to fault line. It is expected that in about ten thousand years, we will be able to admire an entirely new gorge.

 

Main Falls

Through the rainforest, we descend parallel to the gorge toward the Main Falls. On the opposite side, the water flows more or less at eye level to the edge before cascading down in a foamy curtain. The bottom of the gorge is obscured from view by white water mists. A rainbow consistently draws its colourful arc through the scenery. At a height of 108 meters, Rainbow Falls is the highlight of the waterfalls – literally.

 

Main Falls

The question inevitably arises as to which of the Big Three can call itself the largest in the world – Niagara Falls in North America, Iguaçu Falls in South America or Victoria Falls in southern Africa.

It depends on how you look at it, as the information panels inform us. In terms of sheer volume, Niagara is unbeatable – processing 2 407 m³ of water per second. Iguaçu handles 1 746 m³, while Victoria keeps it modest at 1 100 m³.

When it comes to width, the horseshoe-shaped Iguaçu is the undisputed leader at 2 700 m. Victoria follows with 1 737 m, and Niagara lags behind at a meagre 1 203 m. However, Victoria is unique as the only waterfall in the world with a straight water curtain measuring 1,7 km.

In terms of height, Victoria stands out at 108 m, towering over Iguaçu at 82 m and Niagara at just 51 m. Yet, none of them can be called particularly tall, as they do not even make it onto the list of the eight hundred highest waterfalls in the world.

In short, Niagara is the champion in terms of flow, Iguaçu in terms of width and Victoria in terms of height. So it's fairly divided

Main Falls

In short, Niagara is the champion in terms of flow, Iguaçu in terms of width and Victoria in terms of height. So it's fairly divided

 

 

The wind is fully asserting itself, relentlessly driving the water mists over the edge of the gorge. Without a poncho, you’d look like a drowned rat here. Yet, we can distinguish tourists on Livingstone Island across the way, clad in ponchos, of course.

 

With ponchos through the water mist		Lemon tree

 

What earlier seemed like nothing more than a drizzly rain has now turned into a full downpour at Danger Point. This is also the farthest point on the Zimbabwean side, where the forces of nature are driven to their peak. From the slippery rocks, we look down into the deep, vertical gorge through which the Zambezi rushes further south. There is no railing to provide any sense of safety.

There is no railing to provide any sense of safety

Danger Point

Visitors at Danger Point

A little further, we find ourselves at the western end of Victoria Falls Bridge, the brainchild of Cecil Rhodes, who never got to see it himself. The famous bridge was built in England between 1903 and 1905 and then shipped here to be assembled. It was Rhodes' express wish that the bridge be built close enough to the falls for train travellers to feel the water mist. Now it rises over 106 meters above the Zambezi. It must have been a remarkable feat to construct a metal bridge over this deep ravine, permanently exposed to corrosive water vapours and extreme temperature variations.

 

 

And indeed, it went wrong, Robert asserts with great certainty. At the opening ceremony, it became apparent that insufficient consideration had been given to the temperature differences, causing part of the bridge to collapse. The chief engineer held himself personally responsible for this debacle and supposedly committed suicide by jumping off his bridge, facing the crocodiles. We can't find any confirmation for that apocryphal story.

 

Victoria Falls Bridge

As of 2014, Victoria Falls Bridge is still one of only three bridges connecting Zimbabwe with Zambia. A fourth bridge in Kazungula is currently on the drawing boards. Originally, the crossing was reserved for trains, but later pedestrians and vehicles were also allowed. However, only one vehicle is permitted on the bridge at a time.

 

A couple of warthogs remind us that Victoria Falls is located in a national park as they leisurely stroll through the garden

So we find ourselves back at the hotel. A couple of warthogs remind us that Victoria Falls is located in a national park as they leisurely stroll through the garden. Here, they are the boss, as we recall Robert's words from this morning.

Shortly after seven, we descend into the evening darkness toward The Boma, about 5 km outside the city.

Evoking an illusion of African-style cosiness appears to be the norm here – although Robert has to remain outside. We receive a welcome symbol painted on our cheeks and a cloth draped over our shoulders – men wear it on the right, women on the left.

The sour Zulu beer is already waiting for us on the tables. It will likely never become our favourite party drink. However, we are looking forward to smoked crocodile tail as an appetizer. We patiently line up at the barbecue. What we have only been able to watch from a distance until now, we can finally taste – helmeted guineafowl, kudu, buffalo, warthog... Mopane worms are ready to eat, a wildly popular and highly nutritious delicacy throughout southern Africa.

Mopane worms are ready to eat, a wildly popular and highly nutritious delicacy throughout southern Africa

Gradually, a djembe drum is placed behind each chair, indicating that the grand finale is approaching. Skilled drummers set the rhythm, and the guests hesitantly follow their lead. With varying success. Initially, there is one rhythm for the whole tent, but as time goes on, each subgroup contributes its own sound. Little by little, we are swept into the djembe session.

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Monday, July 21 | Victoria Falls (Zambia) – Livingstone

An inferno, it seems, that towering mist that appears from nowhere in an orgy of glaring light

Mosi-oa-Tunya in the morning glow

The early morning sun casts a hellish glow on the wide-spreading water plumes of Mosi-oa-Tunya. An inferno, it seems, that towering mist that appears from nowhere in an orgy of glaring light. Almost as if a volcanic eruption is in the making. But no one is surprised anymore, except for the tourists. Because the apocalyptic image has been appearing here every day for hundreds of thousands of years.

 

Zambia – Victoria Falls, Victoria Falls Bridge

If you want a stunning overview of the falls as a whole, you should turn to the Zimbabwean side, as we did yesterday. However, if you want to experience them up close, you need to be on the Zambian side. At least, that's what the guidebooks tell us. Today, we will check that out on site.

 

If you want to experience the Victoria Falls up close, you need to be on the Zambian side

Just after half past seven, we set out for our very last day. Only four minutes later, we arrive at the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. With a bundle of 50 billion Zimbabwean dollars in hand, a man tries to convince us to exchange money. We're not interested at the moment; it's the immigration office that's keeping us occupied. The Zimbabwean border officials have already made things difficult for us. But our concerns turn out to be premature, because in record time – just five minutes – our passports are provided with the necessary approvals.

We return to Zambia via Victoria Falls Bridge. Stopping on the bridge is not allowed, but we can drive slowly. Photography is permitted as well. A little later, we find ourselves at the Zambian border post. Our very last one. However, things aren't progressing smoothly.

 

Livingstone was not the first person to see the spectacular Victoria Falls – he wasn’t even the first white person to do so

We don’t let it get to us because the Zambian side of the falls is within reach. A cheeky guy is waiting for us there. His name is Shepherd. The good shepherd, he adds with a grin.

Like Robert, Shepherd has a lot to tell before he leads us to the riverbank. The mighty Zambezi, he begins his story, starts its journey as a tiny stream near Kalene Hill in Zambia. This is the same area where the Congo River originates. So the continental divide must be located there.

Soon enough, the Zambezi flows into Angola, only to meander back into Zambia. It doesn’t need a visa to cross the border, Shepherd jokes.

Eventually, the Zambezi emerges as a border river for Zambia – first with Namibia, then briefly with Botswana, and finally with Zimbabwe. It then feeds into the colossal Kariba Lake, the largest artificial lake in the world, holding four times the water volume of the Three Gorges Dam that the Chinese are so proud of. The Zambezi ultimately flows through Mozambique to the Indian Ocean.

Some slave traders felt that they had a posthumous score to settle with the man who had so thwarted them

Originally, this river wasn’t called the Zambezi but the Kasamba Wezi, Shepherd reveals. This name refers to the contrast between the local Tonga people, who know the river's depths and shallows, its crocodiles, hippos, and other dangers, and the foreigners who know nothing about it. For the local population, the falls are a sanctuary. In October, they come here to pray for rain, a plea that is always answered, as the rainy season begins in November.

Zambia has also erected a statue of David Livingstone, it turns out. Livingstone spent his life successfully combating the slave trade, which helps explain the idolization. However, Livingstone was not the first person to see the spectacular Victoria Falls – he wasn’t even the first white person to do so. Slave traders and ivory hunters had been there long before him. The site can already be found on maps from 1850. But, of course, it was Livingstone who gave the falls their world fame.

Water surrounds us in all its forms, colours, and sounds

 

By the way, Livingstone wasn't buried twice, but three times, Shepherd casually reveals. It's well-known that after his death in 1873, Livingstone's loyal companions Chuma and Susi immediately cut out his heart and buried it in Zambia, as Livingstone had repeatedly said that his heart belonged in Africa.

For the rest, Livingstone's remains were to be transported to London on a stretcher. But things didn’t go as planned. Some slave traders felt that they had a posthumous score to settle with the man who had so thwarted their business. They attacked the caravan, kidnapped the body and buried it on the spot.

Livingstone wasn't buried twice, but three times

However, Chuma and Susi were not easily deterred. In the dead of night, they dug up the body, cut it into manageable pieces, and wrapped them in cloth to continue their journey. That’s what is said to be buried at Westminster Abbey in London.

What Danger Point is to Zimbabwe, Knife Edge is to Zambia – dramatic names are abundant here, it seems. But the setting certainly justifies them. Both rock formations rise sheer above the raging waters, where the Zambezi surges toward its exit.

 

Knife Edge

The metal Knife Edge Bridge is the only connection to the island – 40 meters long, 1,3 meters wide. The wind continuously drives the mist over the bridge like a never-ending downpour. But we’re prepared. We’ve rented a double poncho, complete with matching slippers. Waddling like over-aged green penguins, we cross the slippery bridge, eyes fixed on the far side and hands gripping the railing.

Waddling like over-aged green penguins, we cross the slippery bridge

Knife Edge Bridge

Knife Edge

But it's worth the effort. Once we’re past the bridge, it’s relatively dry. Nowhere else do you get as close to the falls as here. The water pouring over the edge across from us seems to emerge from nowhere. After all, we are standing below the water level. Water surrounds us in all its forms, colours, and sounds. Rainbows abound, lending a lighthearted charm to all that natural power.

 

Victoria Falls on the border of Zimbabwe (left) and Zambia (right)

Returning the ponchos marks the end of our story. Just before ten, we head to Harry Mwaanga Nkumbula International Airport in Livingstone. Fifteen minutes later, we say goodbye to our driver and nature guide, Robert. About three hours later, we take off – ironically, in the wrong direction. We want to head north, but we’re flying south. As Johannesburg is a necessary stopover on our journey back to Europe.

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Jaak Palmans
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