The Okavango’s little sister

Namibia | Anno 2014

 

Thursday, July 17 | Kasane – Mazambala Island

Friday, July 18 | Mazambala Island – Bwabwata National Park

Saturday, July 19 | Mazambala Island – Singalamwe – Bwabwata NP

 

 

Thursday, July 17 | Kasane – Mazambala Island

For the third time, we change locations and countries. We trade Botswana for Namibia, and the charming Kasane on the banks of the Chobe River for the, as yet, unfamiliar Mazambala Island in Namibia's Caprivi Strip.

Shortly after eight, our driver and guide, Robert, gets going. For fourteen days, this Zimbabwean guides us through the border region around the quadripoint between Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, and Namibia, near the world famous Victoria Falls.

 

Chobe National Park – Zebras

The excellent asphalt road takes us straight through Chobe National Park. Technically, we aren't allowed to stop here, but as soon as we spot a handful of zebras, Robert turns his heart into stone and makes an exception.

We can’t resist stopping for two pairs of southern ground hornbills either. Large black birds they are, with strikingly bright red throat wattles and unattractive horn-like protrusions on their upper beaks. They can barely fly, hence they spend almost all their time on the ground. You’ll see them always in pairs because they bond for life.

 

Southern ground hornbill

As before, Robert becomes quite talkative behind the wheel of his Toyota Coaster XJ. The first Europeans to colonize Namibia were the Portuguese, he explains, followed by the Dutch. When the Germans took over, they sent the Portuguese packing to Angola and the Dutch to South Africa. By the way, South Africa has always had a hand in Namibian affairs. Many Namibians understand and even speak Afrikaans.

 

Chobe River near Ngoma

Just before nine, we reach the Botswanan border post in Ngoma. From a hill, the border office overlooks the marshy banks of the Chobe. With our passports in hand, we queue at immigration. The computer seems to be acting up today. De computer loop nie rap nie – The computer is not working fast, the talkative official patiently observes. But we don't have to worry. Hakuna matata, he adds – Swahili for Don’t worry.

De computer loop nie rap nie – The computer is not working fast, the talkative official patiently observes

Half an hour later, we cross the bridge over the Chobe River. Namibians are allowed to fish in the river; Botswanans are not. This says a lot about the differences between the two nations. Once, this was a homogeneous area, but European colonial powers drew their artificial borders right through it.

Precision is key at the Namibian border post in Ngoma. The forms must be filled out very carefully. The process is a bit slower, but we learn quickly. At ten o'clock sharp we continue our journey. Tot sofer baaie goed – All good so far.

 

Namibia – Bantu huts

With an area of 824 268 km², Namibia is the size of Spain and Italy combined. The people who live here are Bantu, Robert continues his story as we glide westward along the Golden Highway. While the language may differ from that of Zimbabwe and Zambia, the way of life is largely the same. One euro is worth about 14 Namibian dollars, but we can use our US dollars everywhere.

 

 

Agriculture and livestock farming are the main sources of livelihood here. Those who can save some money do not deposit it in the bank but invest it in cattle. Inheritances and dowries are also paid out in cows.

Marriages are always arranged by the parents. It is the parents of the groom who pay a dowry to the parents of the bride. If your parents cannot come up with enough cows right away, you can buy your bride on instalment. After the marriage, the girl moves in with the groom's family, where she must obey his parents.

Those who can save some money do not deposit it in the bank but invest it in cattle. Inheritances and dowries are also paid out in cows

Divorce is rare. If a break occurs and the bride has not yet been fully paid for, negotiations take place. Having children is the motto. If children do not come, and the woman is to blame, her parents will seek a new wife for the man. If they succeed, the woman may remain with her husband, and he ends up with two wives. If that does not work, the woman is cast out. On the other hand, if the man is at fault, his brother will come and impregnate the woman.

 

Namibian Caprivi Strip – Golden Highway

In the meantime, the Golden Highway is living up to its name. Robert smoothly covers the kilometres on the excellent asphalt. On both sides of the road, trees and shrubs have been cleared over a wide strip. Crossing wildlife will not quickly surprise the unsuspecting driver here.

The Golden Highway is living up to its name

It is eleven o'clock when we reach Katima Mulilo, the only significant place in this region, located on the banks of the Zambezi at the border with Zambia. It is also the administrative centre of the Caprivi Strip, even though the town lies entirely at the eastern end of that 450 km long strip.

 

 

At a cruising speed of 86 kilometres per hour – with peaks of up to 100 kilometres per hour – Robert continues further westward. Meanwhile, residential areas flash by the window, both small and large, each one more picturesque than the last. Most are inhabited, while some are abandoned.

Just after half past twelve, Kongola appears as a sleepy settlement at an inconspicuous intersection. No two minutes later, Robert drives the bus into the bushes. If the signs are to be believed, this sandy track will lead us to Mazambala Island Lodge.

After a quarter of an hour, some huts emerge among the trees. The bus is parked in the shade, and the luggage is unloaded. A pavilion overlooks a small channel that disappears in a sharp bend among the reeds. Soon enough, a flat catamaran makes its appearance. It is the Zwandu Queen, promptly followed by the Kwando Queen.

 

Mazambala Island – Transport by catamaran

The luggage is loaded on board, and we settle into the metal chairs on the deck. Moments later, we disappear among the tall reeds. Davidson and Harris, both from the local Mafwe tribe, effortlessly steer their boats through the winding, shallow channel. The sun shines brightly from the steel-blue sky above.

It's the red lechwes, a type of swamp antelope, that truly belong here

Lechwes

It doesn’t take long before we reach the Kwando, the river that creates this stretch of swamp. High above our heads, a dozen vultures circle. But it's the red lechwes, a type of swamp antelope, that truly belong here. Along the bank, about fifteen of them are grazing – males, females, and young. With their long hooves, short front legs and long hind legs, they run, leap, and swim like no other over marshy ground or swampy terrain. On solid land, however, they are clumsy and slow-moving.

The owner, André, personally greets us at the jetty of his Mazambala Island Lodge, along with part of his staff. Sixteen small bungalows stand shaded by trees. A lookout tower rises about fifteen meters above the surroundings, and at its base, a charming swimming pool is tucked away – right in the middle of the bush.

 

Mazambala Island Lodge

The hippo gate closes every evening around eight o’clock, André explains. It’s a ridiculously low fence, but with their short legs, those bulky creatures can’t get over it. Once the gate is closed, it’s best not to venture near the river at night.

 

Like the Okavango, the Kwando originates in the northern highlands of Angola

Water and mosquitoes – we can imagine what that’s like. But André brings us good news: there are no mosquitoes. Still, we are free to use the mosquito nets and insect repellents provided in the bungalows if we feel the need. There's electricity as well – available 24 hours a day, even. Hair dryers, however, are a bit too much for the solar cells. We're only to use those when the generator is running – between six and nine in the morning or evening.

 

Suspicious hippo

The bungalows are built from stone, with thatched roofs and tiled floors. They’re extremely comfortable, with nothing missing.

A little after half past three, we set out on our first water safari. The river is called the Kwando. The water level is low. Those two sentences are about all we'll hear from Davidson. Because English, unfortunately, isn't his thing. Back then, his parents didn't see the point in sending him to school.

 

Pied kingfisher

Lechwes

Fortunately, Robert takes over, though technically he isn’t supposed to be our guide since, as a Zimbabwean, he doesn’t have a work permit for Namibia. Like the Okavango, the Kwando originates in the northern highlands of Angola. But while the Okavango gets lost in the sands of the Kalahari, creating its magnificent inland delta, the Kwando runs into high sand dunes, pushed up by the desert winds, forcing it eastward. There, the Botswanans call it the Chobe before it flows into the Zambezi.

 

Jacana

Fish eagle

High in the blue sky, a couple of fish eagles are busy communicating with each other. Occasionally, they fly low over our heads, as if they want to make sure that our intentions are harmless.

 

Kigelia…

…or sausage tree

Familiar scenes unfold along the shore. A saddle-billed stork seems to be philosophizing, while jacanas delicately tiptoe over driftwood. Hippos, half-submerged, are sunbathing, undisturbed by our presence. New to us is the kigelia, the so-called sausage tree. Its name comes from its enormous, sausage-shaped fruits, from which beer is brewed.

 

Hippos

A chaotic cluster of gleaming, rounded bodies lies half-submerged in the water – hippos, at least a dozen. We approach rather closely, and they notice us. Some commotion arises, water splashes, and one hippo prepares to confront us. But Davidson has already shifted the catamaran into reverse and quickly makes an escape. Hippos are the most dangerous animals in southern Africa, we remember from Kawana. Even a catamaran makes little impression on these hefty creatures. They could easily capsize the boat or bite off a piece.

One hippo prepares to confront us. But Davidson has already shifted the catamaran into reverse

 

In calmer waters, a handful of water lilies float on the surface. Perfect reflections of the shoreline vegetation unfold on the mirror-smooth water. Between the reeds, a pair of hadada ibises are foraging in the sand. We wouldn’t have noticed them at all if it weren’t for the low afternoon sun casting a light green, pearly sheen on their wings. That iridescent effect comes from the refraction and interference of sunlight in the transparent layers of their wings.

 

Water lily

Weaver nests

With the weavers, it's the male that builds the nest, Robert explains as we observe a tree full of weaver nests. Once the male is finished, the female will thoroughly inspect the structure. If she doesn't approve, the male will continue working until the female is satisfied. Once they move in, both the male and female will take turns incubating the eggs.

A few bubbles rise from the dark water. There's life beneath the boat

A few bubbles rise from the dark water. There's life beneath the boat. For a brief moment, the eyes of a crocodile break the surface, only to promptly disappear again.

 

Wattled lapwing

Water thick-knee

Further down the river, two hippos dive underwater as soon as they spot us. We need to pass that spot, but Davidson hesitates briefly. Then, he speeds by. Behind us, a hippo surfaces to check if those pesky intruders are truly leaving.

 

Papyrus

High up in a tree, a little bee-eater shows off its stunning colours. It performs a peculiar dance, repeatedly flying up for about ten seconds without any apparent reason, only to land on the exact same branch again.

 

Little bee-eater

Go-away bird

The grey go-away-birds are less flashy. They sit calmly on a branch high in a tree, their grey crests loosely fluttering in the breeze. They don’t even greet us with that distinctive call that gave them their English name – go-away, go-away.

 

The puff adder is one of the most dangerous snakes in Africa

Back at the camp, we discover a puff adder lurking around. It's one of the most dangerous snakes in Africa. Not only is its venom almost always lethal, but it also has a very short temper. When disturbed, it strikes quickly and aggressively, aiming to kill. A camp worker quickly spots it and swiftly deals with the situation.

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Friday, July 18 | Mazambala Island – Bwabwata National Park

You don't need an alarm clock here; starting at seven thirty, the birds cheerfully wake you up. With a nature walk on the schedule, there's no need to get up early.

 

Kwando River

Hippos

Just before nine, we drift downstream on the Kwando River with boatman Davidson. The surroundings seem calm, but not so for one hippo. As soon as it spots our silhouettes, it makes a sprint through the reeds towards the safety of deeper water.

 

Lechwe

Cattle egret

High up in a tree, a cattle egret surveys the area. That's not its usual spot. It prefers to ride on the back of a cow – hence its name. This way, it can snatch up insects, frogs, and mice that the grazing cow stirs up. Its retracted neck gives it a somewhat stocky appearance.

High up in a tree, a cattle egret surveys the area. That's not its usual spot

Much more graceful is the purple heron, gliding low over the water and reeds. The small, slender heron feeds mainly on fish and amphibians, which it catches in shallow water. The marsh is its favourite place. It likes to build its nests in old, soggy reeds.

 

Cormorant

High up on a branch sits a cormorant – not this time to dry its wings, but to scan the surroundings.

For our nature walk, Harris has chosen an island with solid ground in the midst of this swamp. Immediately, he picks some wild basil. The San – previously derogatorily referred to as Bushmen – make tea from it. They also use the seeds of the plant to rub on their skin before going hunting with bows and arrows. This camouflages their body scent.

 

Wild sansevieria

The secrets of elephant poop

What we call woman’s tongue, Harris refers to as mother-in-law’s tongue. We had never noticed that the sansevieria has a long, orange root. If you’re about to die of thirst deep in the bush, you chew on that root to get some moisture. From the strong fibres of the plant, the San make ropes. They first boil the leaves to separate the fibres, then the women roll the fibres on their thighs into sturdy ropes. The leaves, finally, provide a remedy for earache. They are first heated in the fire and then squeezed to extract the juice. Supposedly, it works excellently.

As if it were a bowling ball, Harris picks up a dry elephant turd

As if it were a bowling ball, Harris picks up a dry elephant turd. This is the turd of a teenager – experts like Harris can tell right away. Adolescent elephants still have good teeth and grind their food very finely. In older elephants, you might find twigs or whole leaves in the turd.

Elephant droppings are extremely suitable as fuel for the fire. You can also use it to drive away mosquitoes. Put such a turd in the hut to smoke for half an hour and all the mosquitoes will disappear, because they cannot stand the smell. If you mix elephant dung with chili pepper and burn it in the field, the smell will... drive away elephants.

 

Wild hemp

Go-away bird

On a long, thin stem, Harris points out two balls the size of a plum. This is wild hemp. The San sometimes smoke it before going on a hunt. In their euphoric high, they dare to get closer to the animals, making it easier to aim. But sometimes, there are twice as many animals as before, Harris grins. Thus, every method has its downsides.

The San sometimes smoke wild hemp before going on a hunt. In their euphoric high, they dare to get closer to the animals, making it easier to aim

Around a shepherd's tree, a termite mound has been built. Or so it seems. In reality, the termite mound was there first, as one of the tree roots is sticking out above the mound. Baboons and vervet monkeys like to hang out on such a mound. Perhaps a seed of a shepherd's tree started growing on the mound via their droppings. Pieces of wood from that tree are mixed with milk by the San to make it sour. Wild asparagus also seems to grow on the mound.

 

Dry waterhole, source of salt for elephants

A large bare patch in the grass indicates that water used to stand there. Now the spot is dry, but the elephants still come down here, as evidenced by the many dung piles. They do this not to quench their thirst but to suck salt from the sand.

Harris draws our attention to a dark urine stain in the sand, right next to elephant droppings. Given the small distance between them, it must be the work of a female. Males, after all, deposit their droppings further apart. Nothing escapes our Harris.

The San do not need medicines; nature is their open-air pharmacy

The San do not need medicines; nature is their open-air pharmacy. The roots and fruits of the milk weed are dried to make powder. This is used to treat patients with a swollen throat – which specific ailment Harris means remains somewhat unclear. Just apply a few scratches to the inside of the throat every day and drop some powder in. To us, the remedy seems almost as bad as the disease.

The bushveld bluebush contains substances that counteract the growth of bacteria and plaque in the mouth – the Namibian toothpick, as they call this tree here. With smooth movements, Harris demonstrates how to work a twig at one end until fibres appear like those on a toothbrush. And what about toothpaste? No worries; the ash from the leadwood is extremely suitable for that. The tree gets its name from the fact that its wood is lead-heavy – the heaviest wood in the world.

These seeds only germinate after passing through the stomach acids of an elephant or an antelope

Elephant droppings, Harris has a thing for them. This time it’s a dismantled specimen, with the remains spread in a wide circle. This must be the work of vervet monkeys, helmeted guineafowl, or francolins. They search for seeds from the pumpkin or camel thorn tree in such dung. After passing through the elephant’s stomach, the seeds are softer and thus easier to digest. Moreover, these seeds only germinate after passing through the stomach acids of an elephant or an antelope.

The devil’s thorn has certainly not stolen its name – the seeds resemble double thumbtacks. Antelopes can transport these seeds for miles. But it’s the leaves that interest the San. If you mix them with water, you get a surrogate for soap.

The sweet fruits of the jackalberry are not only beloved by jackals. Impalas, helmeted guineafowl, bushbucks, and vervet monkeys also appreciate them. So the tree need not worry about the distribution of its seeds. The San use the tree’s wood to dye their baskets. Brown is achieved after a few hours; black takes about a day.

The famous Amarula, a cream liqueur, is made from the fruits of this tree

Elephants are very fond of the marula, to the extent that it is called the elephant tree. But this fondness has a downside. For we are looking at a dead marula, entirely stripped by elephants. They have eaten away its bark, preventing the tree from absorbing enough water. The famous Amarula, a cream liqueur, is made from the fruits of this tree. Oil is extracted from the nuts by boiling them in water – the layer of oil then rises to the surface. This oil is popular in both cooking and cosmetics.

All year round, the wild mango tree is green, but its fruits only come in November. Not only humans crave them, but also baboons and vervet monkeys.

 

Sausage-shaped fruits of the kigelia

Elephants are particularly fond of the sausage-shaped fruits of the kigelia. Harris shows an open fruit. You can make a cream for skin cancer from it, but you need to apply it daily – just like regular sunscreen.

 

Hamerkops build huge nests

Nestled between two sturdy branches is a gigantic spherical nest, measuring two meters in diameter, high up in a tree. Here someone is living beyond his means, as the builder is the relatively small hamerkop. With such a massive nest, it’s no surprise that he wants to use it for many years. Only if the monsoon rains have severely damaged the structure will he get to work again. The rectangular opening of the nest is clearly visible. Behind it lies a tunnel, so that intruders cannot simply enter.

The nests of the hamerkop are so large that a sea eagle sometimes builds its nest right on top of it. How delightful – a predator living on your roof

Speaking of intruders. The nests of the hamerkop are so large that a sea eagle sometimes builds its nest right on top of it. How delightful – a predator living on your roof.

The sun-bleached skull is all that remains of an elephant that was killed by a hunter here about a year ago. There is also a piece of thigh bone, with the fatal bullet prominently visible, to denounce the wrongdoing. The jawbone tells Harris that it was still a teenager, as many molars are waiting unused for their turn.

 

Molars of the killed elephant

Bullet in the thigh of the killed elephant

The identity of the perpetrator is known. It is a professional hunter who is no stranger to his craft, according to Harris. Hunting is prohibited in the park, but the man concocted a story. The elephant supposedly fled into the park after being shot to die there. Outside the park, you can hunt elephants, provided you pay a hefty fee.

Hunting is prohibited in the park, but the hunter concocted a story

It’s now half-past ten. We’ve gradually learned everything about elephants and their dung. It’s time to return to the lodge, but not without having morning tea on the banks of the Kwando.

 

Lechwe (m)

Just before two in the afternoon, our boatman, driver, and nature guide Johan sets off with us again. This time, we’re heading upstream along the Kwando. Northward, then. Two semi-open safari jeeps are waiting for us – one is a Toyota Land Cruiser and the other a Land Rover 101. This is an exclusive military vehicle that has never been sold commercially. It was even taken out of production in 1978, meaning this specimen is over 35 years old. Worn-out might be the mildest description for the lumbering beast.

Still, Johan and his team are incredibly proud of it. When the vehicle was languishing in the army, they bought it for a song and then refurbished it themselves, converting it into a safari jeep.

A major elephant migration route from Botswana to Angola runs right through Bwabwata National Park

With these vehicles, we will explore Bwabwata, the national park that stretches across the Caprivi Strip from the Okavango in the west to the Kwando in the east, covering an area of 6 274 km². A major elephant migration route from Botswana to Angola runs right through it. Recently, the elephants have been a bit aggressive, however, so if we encounter any, it’s best to keep a low profile, Johan warns.

 

Bwabwata National Park – Impalas on the banks of the Kwando

He immediately sets course for the northern part of the park. After about fifteen minutes, we cross the Golden Highway. A few kudu females take off as soon as they spot us. Baboons flee into the bushes as we approach. From a group of impalas, we catch little more than the elegant M on their backsides as they make their escape.

Here the animals do not trust humans, that much is clear

Here the animals do not trust humans, that much is clear. As soon as humans approach, they quickly make themselves scarce. In fact, there aren’t many animals around. This is largely due to years of hunting and poaching that followed a period of political instability – South Africa occupied the Caprivi Strip in its struggle against the Namibian independence movement, Swapo, until 1990. Only since 2007 has the government been trying to restore order.

 

Baboons at magenta waterhole

Even the baboons around a waterhole some distance from the road are watching us nervously. But it’s not the baboons that catch our attention; it’s the colour of the water – magenta. That's due to algae, Johan explains. Elephants and other mammals urinate in the water, leading to this algal bloom.

 

Meyer's parrots

Lilac-breasted roller

Around a quarter past three, Johan decides it’s time to call it a day. He decisively turns the steering wheel southward. High in a tree, we spot our first parrots. They are Meyer’s parrots, recognizable by their yellow shoulder spots and turquoise bellies. A lilac-breasted roller proudly displays its colourful chest.

Large mammals are nowhere to be seen, apart from a few baboons and impalas

However, the large mammals are nowhere to be seen, apart from a few baboons and impalas. Then our first bushbuck appears. As its name suggests, it tends to stay hidden in the bushes. We can barely make out more than a silhouette of the male among the trees. It's a shame, as we miss the beautiful white spots and stripes on its light brown coat.

 

Warthog

Southern yellow-billed hornbill

It looks as if someone has vacuumed the area around a camel thorn tree; the grey sand is that clean. It’s the elephants that are responsible for this. They shake the tree vigorously, causing its fruits to fall. They then suck them up with their trunks. The tree gets its name from the giraffe, which loves to feast on the leaves that are unreachable for other animals – kameelperd is the African name for giraffe.

The racket-tailed roller is so rare that even Johan picks up the camera

Almost motionless, a racket-tailed roller sits on a branch. This is the smallest of the African rollers. Beautifully adorned, with a reddish-brown back and a light blue chest, but especially with long spoon-shaped decorative feathers on its tail. It is so rare that even Johan picks up the camera.

 

Racket-tailed roller

Baboon

But the future does not look bright for the racket-tailed roller. When it comes to its habitat, the bird is extremely selective. Only certain types of forests – such as miombo and mopane – are suitable to host its presence. Day by day, deforestation is reducing this biotope.

However, Johan is not giving up just yet. We follow the Golden Highway westward for a while and then turn onto a narrow trail – heading north again, parallel to the previous path. On both sides of the trail, the grass is charred black, though the rest of the vegetation remains untouched. By setting fires, people attempt to renew the vegetation.

The tail of the magpie shrike is about twice the length of its body

Crowned lapwing

Magpie shrike

In the scorched grass, two crowned lapwings are busily communicating with each other. Even though they can’t see one another, they emphasize their calls with sharp movements of their heads. Their crowns are black, and the white band below it resembles a diadem.

We only catch a fleeting glimpse of a sable antelope – it darts away in a flash. As for the magpie shrike perched on a branch, we can barely make out its silhouette, but that's more than enough to be impressed by its very long tail – about twice the length of its body.

 

Tsessebe

Meanwhile, Johan is halfway hanging out of the jeep as he tries to decipher the tracks of wild dogs. We don’t spot any wild dogs, but to our great surprise, we do see a tsessebe, a close relative of the hartebeest. Its lyre-shaped horns and sloping back are clearly visible in the distance, though the beautiful colours of its coat are unfortunately harder to make out. Tsessebes prefer moist grasslands and periodically flooded areas. According to Johan, they are very shy animals. For example, you will never find them at a waterhole.

You can find us, however, at a waterhole, more specifically just after five o’clock for our evening tea. After that, we head back south. Even four elephants retreat as we approach.

Johan picks up a strongly scented twig from the ground. He calls it purple pan-weed. Women use it to induce abortion. By inserting it into the vagina, they try to trigger a miscarriage – a very dangerous practice.

 

Buffalo

As if to disprove the notion that all animals flee as soon as we appear, five buffalo stand grazing for a full three minutes before finally making their exit.

Three lionesses confidently stride across the path, right in front of the jeep

At the very last moment, some excitement seems to stir. Suddenly, three lionesses confidently stride across the path, right in front of the jeep. We barely have time to recover from our surprise before they vanish into the bushes. But they don’t shake Johan off that easily. Without hesitation, he leaves the trail – sensing his chance to salvage the safari. Determined, he manoeuvres between trees and bushes, standing on the hood with his binoculars, scanning the area. However, the lionesses have disappeared without a trace.

 

 

Dusk is quickly taking over now. Johan speeds up along the narrow, sandy track, the jeep wildly swerving back and forth through the loose sand. The bushes seem to dance eerily in the flickering light of the headlights. Gradually, the nightlife in the bush begins to stir, but in the near-darkness, we can barely distinguish an elephant from an impala anymore.

 

 

It’s quarter to seven when we reach the catamarans on the shore of the Kwando River. In the channels between the reeds, it’s pitch dark. Yet, somehow, Johan flawlessly navigates through this black labyrinth. Twenty-five minutes later, we dock at the lodge’s pier.

The wildlife in the northern part of Bwabwata is still far from recovering from the many years of war and mismanagement

With a sigh, Johan remarks that this was the first time in over a year he had visited the northern part of Bwabwata. And for now, it will likely be the last. The wildlife is still far from recovering from the many years of war and mismanagement – that much is clear.

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Saturday, July 19 | Mazambala Island – Singalamwe – Bwabwata NP

The culture of the Mafwe is centuries old. Yet still very much alive. The Mafwe themselves believe it deserves some attention. That’s why they established the Living Museum of the Mafwe People in Singalamwe, which is where they are expecting us today. It’s well past eight when our catamarans head upstream toward the pavilion where we left the bus on Thursday. That’s the thing about visiting people – you don’t have to rise as early as you do for the animals.

The coppery-tailed coucal feeds on just about anything that moves and isn’t too big

Sparring lechwes (m)

Coppery-tailed coucal

The lechwes, at least, are up early. A few males are already sparring with one another. Flying low over the grass is a copper-tailed coucal. This bird gets its name from the copper sheen of its black-brown tail. It has a claw-like toe that sticks out backward. The swamp is where this large bird feels at home. There, it feeds on just about anything that moves and isn’t too big. It’s even bold enough to tear open weaver nests.

 

 

Less than half an hour later, we set course for Kongola, with Robert driving the bus. From there, a narrow, dusty road leads to Singalamwe. However, they seem to have big plans here, as the ongoing construction gives the impression they’re building a big highway. The homesteads along the road seem livelier than usual, likely because it’s Saturday.

 

 

Around half past nine, the Living Museum of the Mafwe People appears beneath a beautiful group of baobab trees. A lively young man introduces himself as Gifty, our enthusiastic guide for the village visit. Around his waist, he wears an animal-hide apron adorned with various items – a carved gourd, jawbones, and vertebrae from animals, among others.

 

Singalamwe – Baobabs

Keeping the culture of the Mafwe alive is what this kraal is all about, explains the motivated Gifty. Schoolchildren participate in cultural competitions – traditional dances, folk games, and the like. Traditions are passed down from generation to generation. We certainly want to believe all this, but we struggle with the question of how they will maintain it in a globalizing world.

Keeping the culture of the Mafwe alive is what this kraal is all about

Living Museum of the Mafwe People – Congas

A few men in loincloths and women in reed skirts appear on stage. Children hesitantly follow in their wake. Accompanied by rhythmic drumming on the conga, they will perform traditional dances.

 

It’s the three-year-old Conrad who steals the show with his wild, asynchronous dance moves

First, there’s a dance to welcome the so-called VIPs. That’s us, Gifty adds with a chuckle. We learn in the next dance that sharing food promotes a sense of community. An ode to the hunt is also included. We see how to chase down prey, how to kill a large python, and even how to snatch a catch from the claws of a fierce hyena. But it’s the three-year-old Conrad who steals the show with his wild, asynchronous dance moves.

 

Harvesting mahango or pearl millet

Harvesting mahango or pearl millet regularly is a staple in the household. While this grain crop isn’t particularly nutritious, it does thrive in dry soil, making it ubiquitous in Africa. However, according to the last song we hear, a housewife might sometimes prefer to focus more on her beautiful dresses and lovely hairstyle than on the obligatory harvest. This is frowned upon. Family members and neighbours must call out to her loudly three times before she finally gets to work.

 

Dance with moving sticks

But the Mafwe have more to offer than just singing and dancing. They present us with the results of their artisanal craftsmanship. For example, there’s a bed made of woven twigs, with a goat skin as a mattress. As a demonstration, Gifty lies down on it. He assumes a foetal position since the bed is not very large. And looking for blankets is in vain; it must be cold during these winter nights.

An old man then comes forward with a musical instrument. It has only one string. He uses his finger to adjust the length of the vibrating section, thus changing the pitch. The sound is familiar, except that he plays the string by... blowing over it. One thing’s for sure: this musician will never be accused of making a racket.

 

Mancala game

Hyena trap (scale model)

The mancala game played by two young men is what Gifty calls the African equivalent of chess. Pebbles are placed in four rows of eight holes in the sand. A pebble can only jump over filled holes horizontally. Where you land after the jump, you can remove pebbles from your opponent's field in a vertical direction. Those pebbles are then placed at the back of your own field. The player with the most pebbles in their field at the end wins.

The Mafwe obtain part of their food from hunting, and they don’t shy away from using advanced technology

The Mafwe obtain part of their food from hunting, and they don’t shy away from using advanced technology. They have traps in abundance. Using a model, they demonstrate how to catch a hyena. Bait is placed under a heavy log, and if the hyena disturbs the bait, the log will come crashing down on it.

 

Trap with noose for impalas

Trap with weighted mat for mice

The trap is always adapted to the prey. For instance, a bird that disturbs the bait will end up in a noose tied to a branch that suddenly jerks upward. An impala will find a noose tightened hard around its leg. A mouse gets crushed under a mat of dried earth when it tries to grab a piece of pumpkin.

The trap might contain a small crocodile. Caution is therefore necessary when emptying it

They lower conical traps vertically into the water to catch fish. If the trap vibrates, the fisherman knows that fish have been caught – or a small crocodile. Caution is therefore necessary when emptying the trap. Other traps are placed horizontally in the water. An unsuspecting fish that ventures inside ends up in the tapered end and will never find its way out again.

 

Fish traps

Fruit of the baobab

Gifty breaks open the fruit of a baobab, revealing two halves. White pods emerge from within. We take a moment to taste the tangy white pulp that surrounds the seed.

 

Manufacture of reed skirts

This brings us to the women, who are equally skilled in their artisanal crafts. They make the reed skirts from the root of the baobab. First, they pound the wood of the root into soft strips. They pull strands from these strips and roll them into ropes on their thighs. From the reeds found along the river, they cut pipes about 8 centimetres long. These pipes are threaded onto the rope. Next, these strings are tied to a carrying strap to create a skirt. The fun thing about these skirts is not only that they provide warmth but also the sound they make while dancing, according to Gifty.

 

Coasters and bowls are crafted from strands of palm leaves

Mats are woven from papyrus. Coasters and bowls are crafted from strands of palm leaves. It’s a meticulous and patient work. By boiling the products in water with jackal berries, they turn black – something Harris had already taught us.

 

Gifty with conga

Later at the craft shop, it will become clear that these artefacts cost between 15 to 20 dollars. While that’s certainly not cheap, the intention is for buyers to appreciate the value of the time-consuming craftsmanship involved.

 

Parting

Just before eleven, we leave. At least, that’s the intention, but things don’t go as planned. The bus gets stuck in the soft sand. Both black and white unite their efforts to push the bus forward. Shortly after twelve, we reach the lodge.

Both black and white unite their efforts to push the bus forward

Kwando River

The afternoon safari starts under a good star. Driver and naturalist David is determined to make up for yesterday’s fiasco. We’re hardly a minute aboard the jeeps when we are already presented with warthogs, helmeted guineafowl, and our very first pelicans.

 

Hadada ibis

Kudu (f)

Downstream, we follow the banks of the Kwando, where there is indeed much more to experience. An openbill catches our attention, along with a great egret, two hadada ibises, and two yellow-billed storks, as well as several crocodiles. Further along, a few waterbuck graze with a cattle egret accompanying them. Then, among the trees, we spot our first steenbok.

 

Steenbok

We leave the river behind for a moment and come across a breeding group of impalas. A few female kudu wander cautiously among the bushes. David explains that just before the start of the rainy season, the pregnant females will give birth to their young. About sixty days later, the males will begin to compete with each other to form a new breeding group.

Amid the trees, the foundations of a military base emerge. These are the remains of the conflict between the South African army and SWAPO, which was once the liberation movement of South West Africa, now known as Namibia.

 

Reedbucks on the banks of the Kwando

We head back down to the river and immediately encounter three reedbucks – two females and a male. With their grey-brown, woolly coats, they blend in well with the reeds, making them hard to distinguish. This camouflage is quite handy when a variety of predators are after you – crocodiles, lions, leopards, wild dogs, and more.

With their grey-brown, woolly coats, they blend in well with the reeds, making them hard to distinguish

Reedbucks (m and f)

Blacksmith plover

Their first reaction when danger approaches is to remain perfectly still, hoping not to be seen. Unfortunately, the species is threatened with extinction due to the annual burning of the reeds, which causes them to lose their habitat. A little later, the group has grown to five individuals – three females and two males.

 

Kudu (m)

A blacksmith lapwing strolls among the cracks in the dried riverbank. In an open area, four male kudus graze. They are truly magnificent, these creatures boasting their impressive spiral horns.

 

Wattled lapwing

A wattled lapwing struts through the grass, clearly uneasy as it keeps a wary eye on us. Camouflage is not its strong suit – the bright yellow of its wattles and long legs is so vivid that it nearly hurts our eyes.

Perched on a branch is a Cape starling. Its plumage shines like blue satin, and its eyes are strikingly yellow. You can find this bird almost anywhere in Southern Africa.

 

Cape starling

Fork-tailed drongo

Further along, we spot a fork-tailed drongo. According to David, it’s the most aggressive of the smaller birds. Grasshoppers, cicadas, and spiders are on its menu. When it catches an insect, it will pin it to the ground with one foot and tear it apart with its beak, whether it's alive or not. It’s also known to steal food from other animals. This clever bird can mimic nineteen different alarm calls to scare other animals away.

The fork-tailed drongo is the most aggressive of the smaller birds

Among the bushes, we catch sight of a sable antelope. It turns out to be not one, but five males and one female. Without hesitation, David leaves the trail and drives straight toward them. A group of impalas scatters as the jeep approaches, but the sable antelopes remain undisturbed.

 

Waterbucks

Eight jeeps are lined up to admire seven grazing waterbucks. Has the evening rush hour arrived? No, the jeeps are in convoy heading to their Nambwa campsite. The waterbucks stand there, puzzled, wondering where all the commotion is coming from.

Nature continues to showcase its best side – warthogs, male kudus, impalas, and a giraffe. It's a world of difference from yesterday. David notices this too. He hasn't been to the north in over a year, but he states emphatically that he won't be returning.

 

Hooded vultures on the banks of the Kwando

Giraffe

In the sand across the river, two vultures sit in the shade of a tree. Their long grey necks and sharp beaks leave no doubt in David's mind – these are hooded vultures. They get their name from the grey-brown cap on the back of their heads.

 

Pearl-spotted owlet

With its long yellow beak, a yellow-billed hornbill – the famous flying banana, as Sibs called these birds – feeds on seeds found in elephant dung. A pearl-spotted owlet sits motionless and nearly camouflaged among the branches of a bush. Atop another bush, four go-away birds survey their surroundings. A red-billed spurfowl scuttles through the sand with its chick. Meanwhile, a fork-tailed drongo basks in the evening sun.

 

Go-away birds

Red-billed spurfowl with chick

At half past five, we enjoy our evening tea on the banks of the Kwando River. A little further on, a family of baboons bask in the last rays of the setting sun under a tree. Meanwhile, David and Johan lean over the unruly radiator of Johan's Land Cruiser.

 

Lilac-breasted roller

Just before six, we set off. A magpie shrike flaunts its long tail, while go-away birds survey the surroundings – these are familiar sights for us. However, we had never heard of a black-faced babbler. The little grey songbird doesn't give us a glance.

 

Baboons

Black-faced babbler

But more significant experiences are on the horizon. David has discovered lion tracks. The paw prints are on top of the tire marks of the jeep. This means that the lions crossed the path only after we passed.

Promptly, David reports his discovery to Johan, climbs onto the hood and even onto the roof of the jeep to scan the surroundings with his binoculars. However, this yields nothing.

 

Kwando River

As soon as Johan joins us with his jeep, we spread out and head northward, driving along parallel tracks about 3 kilometres apart. It's a futile effort – no lions make an appearance. Thick, black plumes of smoke billow from the exhaust as we set off once again.

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Jaak Palmans
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The smoke that thunders