The intruders, that’s us

Botswana | Anno 2014

 

Monday, July 14 | Hwange National Park – Kasane – Chobe National Park

Tuesday, July 15 | Chobe National Park

Wednesday, July 16 | Chobe National Park

 

 

Monday, July 14 | Hwange National Park – Kasane – Chobe National Park

Terribly early – quarter past five – we haul ourselves out of bed. With 350 kilometres ahead of us, Robert wants to get an early start. Robert is not only our driver but also our guide. For fourteen days, this Zimbabwean expertly leads us through the border region around the quadripoint between Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, and Namibia.

It takes some effort before the luggage, cool boxes, breakfast packages, and passengers have found their place in the two jeeps. With five layers of clothing, a blanket over our shoulders, a hot water bottle in our lap, and a portion of oatmeal in our stomachs, we hope the cold of the winter morning in the open jeep won’t bother us. We also appreciate the tarp behind the driver's cabin that blocks the icy wind a little.

It’s quarter to seven when jeep driver Alec finally steps on the gas and leaves Bomani Tented Lodge behind. We head north on the sandy tracks, looking for the asphalt road where we left our Toyota Coaster XJ three days ago, near Halfway House. Those sixty kilometres are freezing cold. The sun rises far too slowly over the eastern horizon, but its warm rays gradually make a difference.

An hour and a half later, we reach Halfway House. The luggage is smoothly loaded into the Coaster’s trailer. At twenty to nine, Robert begins the nearly 300-kilometer journey. The well-paved A8 takes us westward through this remote corner of Zimbabwe, heading for the border.

There have never been wars in Botswana, which has benefited its flora and fauna – unlike Namibia, for instance

Meanwhile, Robert gives us insights into our next destination – Botswana and Chobe National Park. This park covers an area of 10 590 km² in the northeast corner of Botswana, equivalent to a third of Belgium. There have never been wars in Botswana, which has benefited its flora and fauna – unlike Namibia, for instance. The country still does everything it can to protect its natural wealth.

In 1966, Botswana gained independence. The land of the Tswana is only on its second president, the son of the first president. It seems a hereditary dynasty is in the making. Shortly after independence, diamonds were discovered, much to the dismay of the British, the former colonial rulers.

The colourful lilac-breasted roller, which we often admired in Hwange National Park, is Botswana’s national bird, and the zebra is its national animal. A horizontal black stripe flanked by two thin white stripes on a blue background – that’s the flag of Botswana. These colours symbolize the people, peace, and rain, respectively. Rain is so important to Botswana that they named their currency, the pula, after it. One pula consists of 100 thebe, which means water drop. The fact that one pula is worth about 8 euro cents is of little relevance to us, as we will always be paying in US dollars.

English is the official language, but Tswana is also widely spoken. If we want to make a good impression, we greet a man with turmerra ra and a woman with turmerra ma, both meaning good day.

With an area of 581 730 km², Botswana is a bit larger than France. It is a landlocked country, yet it can call itself wealthy. Its income comes from diamonds, livestock farming, and tourism. Robert slows down briefly at a police checkpoint, but they let us pass without any trouble.

Rain is so important to Botswana that they named their currency, the pula, after it

As in neighbouring countries, polygamy is allowed in Botswana. In their desire to display power, some men take five to six wives. The government is trying to discourage this behaviour because of the spread of HIV. A quarter of the population between 15 and 49 years old carries the virus; only in Lesotho and Swaziland is the situation worse.

Men like having many girlfriends close by, but marriage – oh no, that’s a different story. Botswanan women are strong, Robert tells us. Men shudder at the thought of becoming henpecked husbands. Robert himself is married in the Methodist church of Zimbabwe. To one wife, he quickly adds. He has three children.

At the next police checkpoint, things don’t go as smoothly. The bus has to pull over, we all have to get out, and the trailer has to be opened. They want to inspect the contents of our suitcases. What they’re looking for becomes gradually clear – guns. After much talking, they back down. All the suitcases remain closed.

In the mining town of Hwange, we refuel. By now, most of the layers of clothing have been shed; it's getting warm in the bus again. Just before Victoria Falls, we turn left, heading west through Zambezi National Park. Even though the road runs through it, the park belongs to the animals, Robert emphasizes. As if to remind us, about a dozen giraffes make their appearance along the road.

 

Zambezi National Park – Giraffes

In the distance, against the blue sky, a massive plume of smoke from a bushfire in Zambia is visible. We approach the border town of Kazungula, where the Chobe flows into the Zambezi. Four country borders meet here — Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia, and Botswana.

The Zimbabwean immigration stamps are quickly placed in our passports. More hassle awaits us in Botswana, where certain things are taken very seriously, like the spread of foot-and-mouth disease. Both the bus and passengers need to be disinfected.

Armed with a plastic bag containing a second pair of shoes, we queue up for the immigration counter

Armed with a plastic bag containing a second pair of shoes, we queue up for the immigration counter. Sorry for the inconvenience, the computer is out of order, is the first thing we read there. Fortunately, not all the computers have failed. After barely ten minutes, we have the required stamps.

Outside, Robert has meanwhile driven the bus through the disinfection bath built into the road. A similar fate awaits us. It involves stepping with our shoes on a wet mop in a metal tray and soaking the second pair of shoes in the same bleach-smelling solution.

We continue our journey along the Chobe. A kilometre-long line of trucks waits to cross the Zambezi at Kazungula, heading to Zambia. There is no bridge, only a ferry, which takes just one truck per trip. It can take days, sometimes even a week, to get your turn, according to Robert. Even on satellite images, that column of trucks is visible.

But the future looks bright. Plans for a bridge connecting Botswana to Zambia are ready. It will be 923 meters long and will gracefully bypass the borders of Namibia and Zimbabwe. The construction will begin in October 2014, and the Kazungula Bridge is expected to be operational by 2021.

We drive down the hill to Kasane, on the banks of the Chobe. On the other side of the river lies Namibia, specifically the famous Caprivi Strip. It is a long, narrow strip of land – 450 km long and often no more than 40 km wide – that points like a finger from mainland Namibia to the Zambezi. It owes its name to Georg Leo Graf von Caprivi de Caprara de Montecuccoli, who succeeded Otto von Bismarck as German Chancellor in 1890.

It wasn't until eighteen years later that the local population learned they were no longer part of the British Empire but the German Empire

Originally, it was the British who controlled the Caprivi Strip. However, the Germans were looking for a connection between their colonies in Southwest Africa and East Africa. In 1890, a trade was made. The Caprivi Strip came under German control in exchange for Zanzibar, which became British. It wasn't until eighteen years later, when the first German official arrived in the area, that the local population learned they were no longer part of the British Empire but the German Empire.

A parking lot full of vehicles is a bit of a shock for us when we arrive at our lodge on the Chobe River. The lodge turns out to be a bustling place, packed with tourists – more like a hotel than a lodge. Gone is the bush feeling of Bomani. We don't have to fear lions or elephants between the rooms.

 

Chobe National Park – Chobe River

There can only be one explanation for such a crowd – nature here has a lot to offer. This will soon be evident during our boat trip on the Chobe. Just after three o'clock, we set off.

There can only be one explanation for such a crowd – nature here has a lot to offer

Chobe River – Sedudu Island

The Chobe is a mighty tributary of the Zambezi, explains nature guide Kawana onboard. Near Kasane, it splits into two branches: the southern branch, with a depth of 4 to 6 meters, and the northern branch, with a depth of 14 to 20 meters. This forms Sedudu Island, which means school of hippos. That the Namibians call the island Kasikili and that both Botswana and Namibia lay claim to it, Kawana fails to mention.

 

What makes Sedudu so special is that it barely rises above the water's surface

What makes Sedudu so special is that it barely rises above the water's surface. It is completely waterlogged, even partially marshy. All year round, the grass is green there. It’s a paradise for animals, at least for those willing and able to swim. Lions aren't too keen on such a swim. That makes the island doubly safe for other animals. It's a different story on the solid riverbank. There, rainwater quickly gushes down the steep slopes into the river, creating a dry, sandy ground. And lions are constantly lurking there.

 

The crocodile almost looks plastic, placed there to trick unsuspecting tourists

Barely have we registered with the park rangers when Kawana points out a crocodile on the solid riverbank. It has a somewhat strange olive-green colour with black stripes. It almost looks plastic, placed there to trick unsuspecting tourists. But there is life in the reptile after all. It’s a young Nile crocodile, lying with its mouth wide open to cool down.

On a branch sticking out above the water, two Nile monitors are sunbathing. They are recognizable by the typical yellow rings across their grey bodies. They can grow up to two meters long, making them the largest lizards found in Africa. With their blue-black tongues, they can detect smells. Since their tongues are split, they can ‘smell in stereo’, which helps them determine the exact location of their prey.

With their split tongues Nile monitors can ‘smell in stereo’

Nile monitor

Black-winged stilt

But it’s on Sedudu where life truly unfolds. About ten elephants are grazing on the island, standing in the water up to their bellies. This bachelor group swam to the island this morning and will return to the mainland by evening. Spending the night on the island is not their thing. Being picky eaters, they tear up grass with their trunks, swinging it back and forth to shake off the dirt before devouring it.

 

Hippo

Barely visible among the grass, almost completely submerged in water, is a hippo munching on grass. This adolescent needs to build strength first to court a female, then to start a family. A black-winged stilt scurries around the giant, hoping to snatch up a few insects as it forages.

Although hippos are not predators, they cause the most human fatalities in southern Africa after the malaria mosquito, according to Kawana. They feel easily threatened and attack without warning. Despite their short legs, they are very agile and can easily reach speeds of 30 kilometres per hour. They don’t kill their prey for food, but to neutralize the threat. An adult male can easily bite a three-meter crocodile in half.

 

From half a kilometre away, a fish eagle can spot a fish 40 to 50 cm below the water's surface

High up in a tree, a fish eagle has built its nest. In a dead tree a bit further away sits its partner. They will remain a couple for life. From half a kilometre away, a fish eagle can spot a fish 40 to 50 cm below the water's surface, says Kawana.

 

For safety, the pied kingfishers have dug their burrows about one and a half meters above the water level

Pied kingfishers are flying back and forth to their burrows in the steep riverbank. For safety, they've dug those burrows about one and a half meters above the water level. The tunnels, over a meter long, lead to a small chamber.

 

Pied kingfisher

Their black and white plumage is slightly different in males and females. We can recognize the males by the double black band on their chest. Females have to make do with a single, broken band.

Wherever we rest our eyes, there's life to be seen

Egyptian goose

Knob-billed duck

Wherever we rest our eyes, there's life to be seen. An adult crocodile and an adult Nile monitor are basking in the sun – one on the shore, the other on a tree root. A pair of beautiful Egyptian geese are foraging along the water's edge. Two hippos are peacefully napping in the mud. An African jacana tiptoes lightly over the water. In the distance, a large group of knob-billed ducks is gathered. The males are striking with their unsightly black knobs on their beaks.

 

White-faced whistling ducks

Startled, a group of white-faced whistling ducks takes flight. The name is mostly accurate – they have white faces and a white crown, and they make a whistling sound. But they are not ducks, these chestnut-coloured birds.

 

Cape buffalo

Cape buffaloes also enjoy the soft grass of the island. Unlike elephants, they spend five months in a row on the island. A male can weigh up to 850 kg. Like hippos, they are unpredictable and dangerous to people who get too close. They love to wallow in mud pools, as the layer of mud protects them from both bothersome ticks and the hot sun.

 

Elephant cow with calves

With tusks and trunks entwined, they stand head-to-head, testing each other's strength

On the mainland shore, two elephant bulls have started a tussle. With tusks and trunks entwined, they stand head-to-head, testing each other's strength. A cow with an adolescent and a baby elephant completely ignores the fighting bulls. Further up, the slender necks of a few giraffes rise above the trees.

 

Cape buffaloes, elephants

More and more elephants descend the slope toward the sandy riverbank. Apparently, they intend to swim across the river to the island. Several boats have noticed and position themselves to observe the spectacle. All the noise displeases the animals, though, and the event is called off. Kawana estimates the total number of elephants in the park at 120 000 – roughly twelve per square kilometre.

 

White-faced whistling ducks

Crocodile

Elephant and hippos with calf

For a brief moment, a few black dots appear in the distance on the shore. A glance through the binoculars reveals they are sable antelopes. These magnificent antelopes we haven't seen yet, but they vanish before we can blink.

In southern Africa, hippos are the deadliest killers of humans, after the malaria mosquito

Hippos, blacksmith plover

Black-winged stilt

Puku

Sedudu continues to fascinate. Birds are present in all types and in seemingly endless numbers. Five hippos are lazily sleeping in the mud. Then, even two pukus appear. These medium-sized antelopes with their golden-brown coats are quite rare in Botswana.

 

Nile crocodile

Buffalo with cattle egrets

Evening falls over the river. The boat sets course for the hotel, but not before positioning itself across the current for a moment. In silence, we enjoy the sun disappearing behind the cloudless horizon.

 

 

From our rooms, we look out over the majestic Chobe in the evening. A couple of warthogs are quietly grazing on the lawn. The mosquito net is already draped over the beds.

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Tuesday, July 15 | Chobe National Park

Today we’re taking a different approach. Instead of being on the water, we’ll be observing the goings-on in and around the Chobe from the land. Apparently, all the other hotel guests had the exact same idea, because at quarter to six, it’s incredibly crowded in front of the hotel.

About ten half-open safari jeeps are ready to go. We climb aboard a Toyota Land Cruiser from Bushtracks. Without much fanfare, the nature guide, Motaa, introduces himself. With the palm of his hand, he taps the hood and says, motόό. Then he taps his chest and says, Motáá. The difference should be clear.

It turns out to be colder than we expected; we’re still about 930 meters above sea level. Motaa even hands us blankets.

 

Three chacma baboons sit together, shivering, under a tree

In the twilight, we can barely make anything out at the Island Sedudu for now. The many elephants have certainly left the island. However, about ten marabou storks are standing on the shore. Viewed from behind, they somewhat resemble a group of funeral directors. Probably a job hazard, as scavengers have a lot to do with carcasses. Like vultures, their heads and necks are bald. We remember that Sibs counted them among the Ugly Five.

An yellow-billed stork stands calmly in the water. That’s its modus operandi – waiting for something tasty to swim by. Notable is its long, yellow beak and the bright red band that runs across its face like a mask.

Three chacma baboons sit together, shivering, under a tree. They’ve left their sleeping spots in the tree but still find it too cold to start their day.

 

Impalas

At the water’s edge, an African spoonbill is foraging. The shallow water is its prime hunting ground. It strides effortlessly through the water, sweeping its long, spoon-shaped beak back and forth. If prey comes between the halves of its beak, they snap shut in an instant. It could be a fish, a mollusc, an amphibian, a shellfish, an insect, or a larva...

The real action is now about to start – Motaa has received a message that lions have been spotted. He immediately speeds off, but just as we arrive, the lions disappear into the bushes. We have to settle for some fresh lion paw prints in the sand.

 

Impalas in danger?

Several males have taken up positions around the herd. They stand stock-still, keeping watch, each looking in a different direction

A little further on, a very large herd of impalas is grazing casually – about two hundred of them, perhaps. Are they unaware of any danger? Appearances can be deceiving. Motaa points out that several males have taken up positions around the herd. They stand stock-still, keeping watch, each looking in a different direction. A lion doesn't rely on its speed like a cheetah. To succeed, it needs to get close enough to its prey. But this herd won’t be caught off guard. The lookouts will spot the lion immediately. Incidentally, even if impalas don’t get caught by a lion, they only live up to 14 years at most.

 

Lion lies in wait

Once again, the lions are spotted, and once again, Motaa makes a dash. For a brief moment, a lion can be seen among the bushes, but then he disappears again. About ten jeeps are jostling for the best position.

 

Lion

But Motaa knows better. He heads toward the spot where he thinks the lions will reappear. And he’s right. One of the lions confidently strides across the road, indifferent to all the commotion and excitement.

 

Tawny eagles

Distressed helmeted guineafowl

We drive a little further from the river. High in a dead tree sits a female tawny eagle. In principle, it’s a scavenger – though only of fresh carcasses, as it’s a bit picky. But it also hunts small mammals, reptiles, and birds, which explains why the helmeted guineafowl on the ground are making such a ruckus. The eagle may have its eye on their young. The fact that the male flies in a little later and joins the female on the tree does not make the helmeted guinea fowl any calmer.

 

Vultures

Banded mongoose

Banded mongooses

Around twenty banded mongooses are foraging for their breakfast. They owe their name to the horizontal stripes on their bodies. They dash about wildly, sometimes almost tripping over each other, digging here and there in the ground with their sharp claws in search of food. Termites, beetle larvae, centipedes, lizards, frogs, and even snakes and mice have a hard time when such a group descends upon the area. Occasionally, one stands up on its hind legs to survey the surroundings.

Termites, beetle larvae, centipedes, lizards, frogs, and even snakes and mice have a hard time when such a group descends upon the area

The track leads us back toward the river. On the shore, a few dozen hippos are basking in the sun. They’re mostly active at night, as they avoid the heat during the day. Sunlight can damage their sensitive skin. Elephants, on the other hand, still find the water too cold at this early hour. They won’t show up until after midday when they’ll cross over to the island.

 

Giraffe with blue tongue

A dozen giraffes are enjoying the leaves from the trees. Their eyesight is extremely sharp, which is useful for keeping an eye on potential predators from above the treetops.

 

Kudus (m and v)

A few kudus are also feasting on a bush. They are magnificent creatures, especially the strong males with their impressive spiral horns that can grow up to 1,4 meters long.

 

Young warthogs

Chobe River, Sedudu Island

Amusingly, some young warthogs are running through the bushes, chasing after their parents. They’re completely bald except for the bizarre tuft of bristles growing on their backs like a scruffy, misplaced beard.

 

Kasane – School-going youth

 

Around nine thirty, Motaa drops us off at the hotel. After breakfast, we leisurely explore Kasane. The town doesn’t have much to offer. A few artisan shops try to catch the attention of tourists. The tiny local market sees little interest at this time of day. The most attention goes to a massive baobab tree. They can live for three to four thousand years, according to our guide Robert.

In the hallway leading to the rooms, an brown house snake has appeared

In the hallway leading to the rooms, an brown house snake has appeared. It’s about a meter long. According to the guidebook, it sometimes takes shelter in buildings where it feeds on rats, but it’s supposedly not dangerous. We hope this guy sticks to what the book says.

 

Still, some elephants are swimming across, with the little ones keeping their trunks above the water like periscopes

At exactly three o'clock, we set out again. Grazing elephants have now taken over Sedudu. Still, some elephants are swimming across, with the little ones keeping their trunks above the water like periscopes. Buffaloes are grazing in the shallow water. These are old males that have left the herd because they can no longer keep up with the pace. Here, they come to find the juicy grass.

 

Sunbathing Nile crocodiles

Three Nile crocodiles are basking in the sun on the muddy shore. They can grow up to six meters long. They usually feed on fish, but they can also catch impalas, young buffaloes, and even baby elephants.

 

 

Along the shore, a few elephants are wading through the shallow water. More and more elephants are descending the slope toward the water. At least they’re trying to, but our jeeps are awkwardly in the way. One of the females is pregnant. Her gestation will last a total of about 22 months. Males and females can best be distinguished by observing their foreheads in profile, according to Motaa. A male’s forehead is somewhat rounded, while a female’s forehead has a more rectangular shape.

 

Sable antelope

Finally, there it is – the first sable antelope that’s more than just a black dot in the distance. It’s grazing, occasionally lifting its head to survey its surroundings. It’s a magnificent animal, a male with a shiny black coat. Males weigh between 200 and 300 kg. Females, on the other hand, are much smaller and more chestnut-coloured.

 

Pukus

Vervet monkeys

Not far from there, a few rare pukus are grazing – two females and two males with rather modest lyre-shaped horns.

High in a dead tree sits a fish eagle’s nest. The head of one of the residents just peeks above the edge of the nest. The abundance of dead trees in the park, according to Motaa, is due to winters when food is scarce. Animals strip the bark off the trees, leaving them vulnerable.

 

Elephant

Old buffalo

In a bend, we suddenly come across a trio of retired buffaloes. They’re so close we could touch them. If you’re not paying attention, you might not even notice them.

 

 

On a thick branch in the dense foliage of a tree, Motaa points out the remains of a leopard’s feast. There’s not much left to distinguish besides the ribcage of the animal – probably an antelope. A leopard rarely hunts during the day, as it would be too conspicuous. If it catches prey at night, it always drags it up into a tree to eat in peace. It can even haul prey weighing up to 70 kg into the branches.

A leopard can even haul prey weighing up to 70 kg into the branches

More excitement is on the way. Further ahead, we hear from another jeep that a leopard has been spotted in a tree. Motaa immediately heads for the riverbank. In the distance, four jeeps are parked under a tree. Motaa races toward them over the bumpy sand track.

But the leopard is well hidden in the thick foliage, completely out of sight. It’s impossible to catch even a glimpse of it. We wait patiently, but nothing moves, except for the occasional jeep that thinks it might find a better position. The leopard is unfazed by all the commotion. He has no intention of interrupting his siesta for a performance on the catwalk. As far as he’s concerned, the tourists can climb the tree themselves.

 

Fishing technique of the pied kingfisher

Giraffe

But there’s still plenty to experience. A pied kingfisher shows us its favourite fishing technique. Motionless, it hovers about ten meters above the water’s surface, scanning the water below. Suddenly, it plunges headfirst like a stone toward its prey. Moments later, it emerges from the water... without a catch.

 

African spoonbill

Saddle-billed stork

Motaa sets course for the hotel, but not before suddenly positioning the jeep sideways on the track. In silence, we enjoy the sun disappearing behind the cloudless horizon in a golden glow.

 

A few giraffes stand with their front legs spread wide, drinking. That’s the moment when they are most vulnerable

By the river, a few giraffes stand with their front legs spread wide, drinking – a challenging task when your head is usually five meters above the ground. It’s also the moment when they are most vulnerable, as it takes some effort for them to stand up again.

 

Marabou storks

On a few dead trees, marabou storks are settling in for the night. How they manage to doze off on the thin branches without losing their balance is a mystery.

 

End of the safari

The good news is that the brown house snake has disappeared. The bad news is that the same hallway is now the scene of an invasion by brown dung beetles. There must be hundreds of them. At first, they seem rather docile. However, when they start rushing in under the door in groups of dozens to showcase their flying skills in our room, it’s a bridge too far for us.

The little creatures are harmless, according to housekeeping; they just come toward the light. After some insistence, a broom is finally brought out to sweep the hallway. The light bulb is removed from its holder, which only results in the swarm moving to the next lamp, as we discover after dinner.

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Wednesday, July 16 | Chobe National Park

The noise above our heads makes us fear the worst. It sounds as if stones are clattering on the roof. However, it turns out there’s nothing to worry about. A handful of hyperactive chacma baboons have taken over the roof to bask in the first rays of the morning sun.

 

Chacma baboon with cub

Wire-tailed swallow

As much life as there is on the roof, there is just as much death in the hallway. Apparently, the dung beetles landed in the light of the lamp to die in mass. The little corpses crunch under our shoes as we head to breakfast.

The animals are in their territory. The intruders, that’s us

That's just nature, Robert replies when we share the story of the invasion with him. Dung beetles behave this way; we must respect that. After all, the animals are in their territory, and we are the intruders. Animals are protected by law here. That's why they weren't exterminated with insecticide last night, but merely swept away with a broom. He adds with a piercing gaze that this last approach is not exactly animal-friendly either. We should let nature take its course, he states lightly reproachfully.

If we had killed the brown house snake yesterday, it would have been a punishable offense, he continues. He recalls the story of a man who was dragged away by a crocodile a few years ago. A park ranger with a loaded gun was nearby but did not intervene. Robert believes this was the right decision. The man had intruded into the crocodile's territory. You don’t kill a crocodile just for following its instincts on its own turf. The man was never seen again.

We are taken aback and wonder what the purpose of the armed escort that guided us between the huts in Hwange after dark was. In case of danger, that escort was supposed to fire three warning shots, Robert insists firmly.

We find this highly peculiar, considering that Sibs only had three bullets in his gun. Sibs made it clear that in the event of an attack, he would shoot to kill. Furthermore, isn’t there a commercial motive at play? Wouldn’t it be a fatal blow to tourism in Zimbabwe if a tourist were killed by a lion while a park ranger stood nearby bravely shooting in the air?

A man was dragged away by a crocodile. A park ranger with a loaded gun was nearby but did not intervene. Robert believes this was the right decision

Actually, the problem won't arise, Robert sidesteps the dilemma. Animals always run away from a group of chattering tourists. Besides, they bolt as soon as they smell gunpowder. That’s what their experience with humans has taught them.

 

Hippo

With a second boat trip on the agenda, our expectations are low. The boat will follow the same route as the day before yesterday, so there probably won’t be much to experience.

With its rough table manners, the hippo stirs up many insects, making for an easy feast for the lapwings

However, this turns out to be a gross misjudgement, as the captain and nature guide Isaac will take his small boat to places where the larger boat cannot reach. On the bow of the boat, two wire-tailed swallows come to keep us company.

With its belly in the water, a hippopotamus is munching on the grass. A few long-toed lapwings are around it. With its rough table manners, the hippo stirs up many insects, making for an easy feast for them. A cattle egret is also present to grab a bite.

 

Pied kingfisher

In the distance, a flock of spur-winged geese sits. These are the largest geese in the world and also the largest waterfowl in Africa. They owe their name to an extra claw hidden in their wings. During the breeding season, they won’t hesitate to threaten other birds with it.

 

Pied kingfishers passing on a fish

African jacana

As always, the pied kingfishers are busy near the steep riverbank. Cooperation among pied kingfishers is not uncommon. On a tree stump, one kingfisher passes the tasty fish it has in its beak to a female. She eagerly gulps it down.

Like the pied kingfishers, the white-fronted bee-eaters have dug their burrows in the steep riverbank

White-fronted bee-eater

Sitting side by side on a tree root, two white-fronted bee-eaters proudly display their colours – white forehead, deep red throat, sandy brown chest, green wings, and bluish tail. Like the pied kingfishers, the white-fronted bee-eaters have dug their burrows in the steep riverbank. True to their name, they primarily feed on bees. They rid the bees of that pesky stinger by rubbing the bee's abdomen back and forth along a branch. When no bees are available, they intercept other insects in flight – dragonflies, grasshoppers, wasps, bumblebees, beetles...

 

Waterbucks

African darter, long-tailed cormorant

African darter

With their wings wide open, an African darter and a long-tailed cormorant sit side by side, each on their own little rock in the middle of the river. Their wings do not contain oil to repel water. Therefore, they must dry their wings after a dive in the water; otherwise, they become too heavy to fly. Our approaching boat startles them prematurely. They struggle to fly low over the water, occasionally brushing the tips of their wings against the surface.

 

Waterbuck (m)

On the shore, a waterbuck stands close to the water. It is a male, feeling secure and not fleeing. Further along, two females approach with a young one. You will always find waterbucks near the water because when a lion appears on the scene, they flee into the water. Additionally, they secrete an oil that gives their meat an unpleasant taste, which lions do not like. People, too, are not fond of this meat.

Waterbucks secrete an oil that gives their meat an unpleasant taste, which lions do not like

Under a bush on the slope, a young hippopotamus is grazing. It is a solitary male. The dominant male has driven him out of the group due to fear of competition. The young male must now build strength to acquire his own territory and females through battle.

 

Blacksmith plover

Malachite kingfisher

Along the waterline, a blacksmith plover tiptoes. This black-and-white bird makes a sound like a hammer on an anvil, which is how it got its name.

Isaac points out a malachite kingfisher in the reeds. It is much smaller than the pied kingfisher, but in terms of colours it is certainly not inferior – brilliant blue back, brownish-red to orange chest, and fiery red beak and legs.

 

Yellow-billed stork

A darter flutters away awkwardly as we approach, its wings still slightly wet. An yellow-billed stork, on the other hand, is not shy of us. With a broad wingbeat, it lands nearby. Only then can we observe the black flight feathers on the underside of its white wings. When it’s in courting mode, those feathers turn pink, Isaac tells us.

 

Yellow-billed stork

There aren’t many animals to be seen on the Namibian bank of the Chobe. The difference with the Botswanan bank is striking. Robert attributes this to the liberation war that plagued Namibia – armies need to eat. But also, the many hunters and poachers have their share of blame.

 

Yellow-billed stork

However, we do come across a Nile crocodile about four meters long. It is not yet fully grown, as they can reach six meters in length. Young crocodiles have natural enemies, but once they are about a meter long, they no longer have to fear predators and can easily live for a hundred years.

There aren’t many animals to be seen on the Namibian bank of the Chobe

A black wader strides through the water. Even when its long beak is completely closed, there is still a small opening in the middle. This may seem like a hindrance, but it is not. The bird feeds on freshwater snails, using its beak as a kind of nutcracker to crush the shells. This has earned it the name African openbill.

 

African openbill

Great egret

A great egret stands foraging in shallow water. Fish, amphibians, reptiles, as well as small mammals and birds are on its menu. There is some confusion about its English name – is it a great egret or a great white heron? Since it has been established that the egret and the heron share the same genes, attempts are being made to standardize these names, according to Isaac.

 

African openbill

In the shallow water on the solid bank, about a hundred impalas and a handful of waterbucks are grazing. This is open terrain where they feel safe. After all, danger can be seen from afar. A dozen waterbucks come down from the slope to join the group.

 

Elephants, impalas, waterbucks

Even three elephants make an appearance at the water's edge this early hour. They are males – two adults and a juvenile. An unusual gathering, as adult male elephants are solitary creatures. Babysitting is definitely not their thing. One of them seems to have five legs, its penis almost dragging through the sand.

Adult male elephants are solitary creatures. Babysitting is definitely not their thing

Hippo

Bull elephant with five 'legs'

In a hurry, two sunbathing crocodiles slide into the water. With us nearby, they feel safer there. In summer, you won’t often see so many crocodiles above water. But in the heart of winter, they enjoy basking in the warm rays of the sun.

 

Water thick-knee

Hardly visible among the dry reed stalks and the dry mud are the water thick-knees with their brownish-white feathers and grey bellies. Such camouflage comes in handy, as the ground is the exclusive hunting ground of these birds, and it’s better not to draw attention. Insects, lizards, and small mammals are on their menu. While they scrutinize us from the high bank with their bright yellow eyes, we chuckle at their funny thick knees. But anatomically speaking, those are actually their ankles.

 

Hadada ibises

Meanwhile, a flock of hadada ibises passes overhead. A seemingly endless array of birds appears to inhabit this area. Satisfied, we return to the hotel.

 

Chobe River

Later than usual, we venture out in the afternoon with our driver and naturalist Diane for the third time onto the sandy track of the River Bank Route. Around a large bush stand a kudu, a waterbuck, and an impala, enjoying a snack. One has better hearing, another has better sight, and the third has a better sense of smell. Together they are unbeatable; no predator can approach unnoticed, as they warn each other.

Together they are unbeatable; no predator can approach unnoticed, as they warn each other

Cape buffaloes

A small herd of buffalo stands grazing with their bellies in the water. Males, Diane points out. He can tell by the horn-like plate on their foreheads. This protects them when they engage in head butting to secure a better position in the hierarchy.

Fish eagles will always perch prominently in a tree, to assert their dominance over this territory through their conspicuous presence

Fish eagle

High in a dead tree, a fish eagle confidently inspects its surroundings. Fish eagles will always perch prominently in a tree, not so much to hunt for prey, but primarily to assert their dominance over this territory through their conspicuous presence. With its long wings and sharp talons, it effortlessly carries a 2,5 kg fish to its nest.

 

White-crowned lapwing

African spoonbill

While adult elephants sometimes consume a tree, elderly elephants must rely on soft grass. This has to do with their molars. They have six sets, each lasting five to ten years. Once the last set is worn down, they go on a diet – only the soft, but low-nutritional grass remains for them. This gradually weakens them, and they pass away at around 65 to 70 years of age, always near a marsh where soft grass thrives. Thus, the myth of elephant graveyards has emerged, according to Diane.

Elephants pass away at around 65 to 70 years of age, always near a marsh where soft grass thrives. Thus, the myth of elephant graveyards has emerged

Young chacma baboon

Chacma baboon

In shallow water, an openbill is picking up its food. What’s happening in the muddy water is invisible to it, but it feels it very well with its beak. A fish eagle majestically flies away from its nest. On the ground, the attention of two chacma baboons turns to more earthly concerns. Conscientiously, a female defleaes a male lying lazily on her lap.

Conscientiously, a female defleaes a male lying lazily on her lap

Chacma baboons

At the water's edge, a proud sable antelope grazes. This is open terrain, and rightly so, it feels safe. However, it isn’t too keen on our jeep. Silently, it makes its escape. In contrast, a male giraffe seems unbothered by our proximity. His dark coloration reveals that he’s somewhat older. He can live up to 25 years. Calmly, he munches on the highest leaves of a tree. Alone, because males can't stand each other's presence. They then soon start bickering over who's boss.

 

Sable antelope

Bickering – impala males know all about that. We see one with a broken horn, the result of fighting for dominance. It doesn’t hurt to have a broken horn, but it sure is embarrassing when trying to impress a female.

 

Elephants are very social and emotional

Things are quite different in a family group of elephants. There are fifteen of them, with the babies safely under the care of the adult females. A thirsty young one is reaching for its mother's teats with its trunk, which are located between her front legs.

The alpha female decides the group's movements, initiates steps and stops, and determines the strategy in case of danger. Elephants are very social and emotional. If a mother dies, another female will guide the young one and even nurse it if needed.

 

Buffaloes

A herd of about 150 buffalo has taken over part of Sedudu. They graze in open terrain, with the males on the outer edge of the circle and the females and calves safely inside. They are carefree, as lions can be seen approaching from a distance in this open area. Buffalo mainly graze on tall grass, which is convenient for impalas and waterbucks, as they prefer shorter grass.

Buffalo mainly graze on tall grass, which is convenient for impalas and waterbucks, as they prefer shorter grass

With their front legs spread wide apart, two giraffes seem to be drinking, but they aren’t drinking water. They are sucking essential minerals from the moist soil of the bank. They sleep standing up because giraffes are ruminants. If they lay down flat on their side, their food would come back up and they could suffocate.

 

Giraffes suck minerals from the moist riverbank

Carcass of buffalo

For two months now, the skeleton of a buffalo has been lying just off the sandy track, Diane knows. The carcass is completely stripped – only the horns, ribcage, and spine remain to remind us of the animal. Everything else is gone, including the legs.

By the water’s edge, giraffes hesitate to drink. Even though there are five of them, they are particularly cautious. The western horizon glows orange-yellow; it’s getting cooler. This is the moment when lions go hunting, they know that. More and more giraffes emerge from the bushes, and eventually, there must be about thirty.

 

They stroll across the road without giving us a glance

Diane begins to head back. Suddenly, three lionesses appear. They stroll across the road without giving us a glance. Their brown coats glow reddish in the rays of the setting sun. They saunter southward through the tall grass. Right towards the large herd of buffalo, Diane notes.

 

 

The giraffes watch them anxiously. They only feel reassured once the lionesses disappear into the bushes.

 

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Jaak Palmans
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