On the back of a tigress

Bhutan | Anno 2014

 

Thursday 17 April | Bumthang – Trongsa

Friday 18 April | Trongsa – Gangteng – Thimphu

Saturday 19 April | Thimphu – Taktsang Gompa – Paro

Sunday 20 April | Paro – Kolkata

 

 

Thursday 17 April | Bumthang – Trongsa

On average, Bhutan has one dog for every three inhabitants, as travel guide Karma once mentioned. You don't have to be a genius to calculate that the Bumthang valley has at least five hundred potential yappers. More than enough for all those four-legged friends to set up a nice rotation system, ensuring that throughout the whole night, several specimens can be heard barking somewhere.

 

Young school goer in traditional gho

Farewell to hotel Jakar View

Dense clouds prevent the morning sun from warming the valley quickly. This makes it several degrees cooler compared to yesterday. The farewell from the Tandyn family and the staff is more than heartfelt. At half past eight, they stand together to wave us off on the steps of the family hotel Jakar View in Jalikhar, located more than two kilometres southeast of Jakar, the beating heart of the Bumthang valley.

 

Jakar Dzong

From now on we head back west with the Toyota Cruiser, along exactly the same route we came by. In three days we will travel via Trongsa and the capital Thimphu to Paro, under the safe care of driver Kuenzang. In the distance, Jakar Dzong rises against a backdrop of mists above the valley.

 

Kiki La

The weather doesn’t stop us this time from giving the 2,860 m high Kiki La the attention it deserves – in contrast to the day before yesterday, when thunder and lightning stifled any urge to explore. It is a bit cold and rainy, that’s true, but there is no wind to be felt among the trees. The countless faded prayer flags hang idly. A little later, the sun begins to pierce through the clouds.

Only about twenty monks came to spend their time here because the place was said to be haunted

Domkar Tashigang Dzong

It is half past nine when we approach the Domkar Tashigang Dzong. This was the summer residence of the second king; in winter, he stayed in the dzong of Trongsa. After his death, the building stood empty for a time. An attempt to give the building a new life as a monastery failed because it was said to be haunted. Only about twenty monks came to spend their time there. Now it is somewhat dilapidated. The king or his brother rarely make use of it. We climb over the surrounding wall via a wooden ladder and wander around a bit. The rooms are empty, except for a few chairs and shelves. The whole place exudes a musty atmosphere of faded glory.

 

Rhododendron

An hour later, we let ourselves be tempted once more by the lush rhododendrons, but especially by yaks with a few little ones that have comfortably settled in the grass.

 

Yaks with young

Building a dzong is almost always preceded by a legend in Bhutan. This is also the case in Trongsa. This time, the great-grandfather of the Shabdrung plays the leading role in the story. That Shabdrung was not just anyone. Although he was originally Tibetan, Bhutanese still revere him as the father of the nation because he succeeded in curbing lawlessness and uniting the country under one authority – his own. We have come to know him as a figure with a long, blue-grey beard.

Curious, he went to investigate and found the imprint of a horse's hoof

As early as 1540, the great-grandfather of the Shabdrung travelled from Tibet to Bhutan to meditate high up on a mountain in the village of Yuling. There, he saw a light burning in the valley evening after evening. Curious, he went to investigate and found the imprint of a horse's hoof – the horse of Mahakala, one of Bhutan's two protective deities. Nearby, on a rock, a butter lamp was burning. That must have been the light he saw every evening.

Hardly had he resumed his meditation when Mahakala appeared to him in a vision. The deity indicated that a dzong should be established at the spot where the butter lamp stood. Thus it happened. Gradually, a new village emerged around the dzong – Trongsa, which means new village.

Today, Trongsa is a small town on the banks of the Mangdi Chhu. Quite a few Tibetans who are unhappy with Chinese interference in Tibet have sought refuge here. They have integrated perfectly, Karma emphasises. So well, in fact, that the majority of businesses are in their hands.

They have integrated perfectly. So well, in fact, that the majority of businesses are in their hands

With a high mountain pass both to the east and the west, Trongsa is somewhat isolated from the rest of Bhutan. Nevertheless, the only road connecting the east and west of the country still passes through this town. In the past, this was little more than a mule track that crossed the traditional bridge over the Mangdi Chhu, running directly through the dzong. This was very convenient for imposing taxes on trade and even exercising control over it. Given the town’s strategic position, tradition dictates that the role of penlop, or governor, of Trongsa is always held by the crown prince.

 

Parental home of guide Karma

But first, Karma has a promise to fulfil – a brief introduction to his family. It's almost half-past eleven when we approach his parental home, just a few kilometres from Trongsa. The house, perched on a hill, overlooks the vast surroundings. The Kenzing family has five children – four boys and one girl. These days, only Karma’s parents and his maternal grandparents still live here. His mother is busy working in the garden, and his 74-year-old grandmother, still active, is down in the field. The men are not home today. Until recently, they had two dogs, but one was killed by a panther during the night last week.

The living quarters are on the first floor. In the kitchen, there’s a small iron stove sitting in the middle of the wooden floor. During winter, it gets here –5 to –10 °C (23 to 14 °F). Yet, the window through which the chimney pipe exits has large gaps. Red meat and lungs hang drying from the ceiling. In one corner is the kitchen counter with a few pots and pans. There’s no running water. Nor are there any tables or chairs.

 

Kitchen

Drying meat

In the next room, the parents sleep. The bedding is neatly piled up in a corner on the floor. After that, there's a sitting room, surprisingly with a couch. Aside from that, there are no other pieces of furniture in the house.

 

Bedroom

Living room

But it is the room in the far corner that truly fascinates us, the largest of all. We must take off our shoes, as this is the choesum, the house chapel. An impressive altar stands against the wall, with statues behind glass, sacred texts, bowls of holy water, images of spiritual leaders, and other religious decorations. Karma points out the hundred books of the Kangyur, which contain the original sayings of the Buddha. The sixteen books of the Bum are also there, offering a simplified version of the Buddha's teachings.

 

Choesum or House Chapel

Every religious event is celebrated in this room. Even the grain from the first harvest is offered here to the gods. Each year, the family invites twenty monks to come and recite the Bum, which takes a full day. Every three years, instead of the Bum, the entire Kangyur is recited, a process that lasts three full days. The fact that the family possesses such a large house chapel and invites so many monks for prayers seems to indicate that they are not in a bad financial position.

 

Mangdi Chhu Valley

Just after noon, we descend towards Trongsa. Not to the city centre, but to the Ta Dzong, the watchtower that rises high above the town. Spread over ten floors, we discover an excellent museum there, with clear explanations in outstanding English.

 

Ta dzong

Prayer drums

Of course, we are first greeted by the Four Heavenly Kings. They were among the first to listen to the Buddha, it seems, and were appointed by him to guard the four cardinal directions.

A tribute to the kings of Bhutan is also present in this museum, as expected. The royal family originates from this region, and the first two kings ruled from Trongsa. One of the royal family's distant ancestors is said to be Pema Lingpa, the famous terton. Even as a teenager, this monk managed to discover some of the many scriptures or terma that Guru Rinpoche had hidden in the 8th century. It was due to these discoveries that Pema Lingpa earned the title of terton, an honour granted to very few.

The kings here are called Druk Gyalpo or Dragon Kings. The first Dragon King is highly credited with bringing peace to Bhutan for the first time since the 17th century. The second king soon became an absolute ruler, both secular and spiritual. The third king, widely recognised as the father of the nation, brought Bhutan into the 20th century, and the fourth king continued these reforms by introducing democracy and a bicameral system. In 2008, the fifth and current king was crowned with the famous Raven Crown, symbolising that the monarchy is under the protection of Mahakala, the guardian deity with a raven's head.

Referring to emptiness as a quality might raise some eyebrows, but it reflects the fact that true detachment is exactly what a devout Buddhist strives for

The Buddhist pantheon is also extensively covered in this museum. We are introduced to various bodhisattvas, beings who can attain enlightenment but choose instead to help others along their path to enlightenment. Then there are the arhats, beings who have made significant progress towards enlightenment but are still one step below the bodhisattvas.

The dhyani-Buddhas, the Five Wisdom Buddhas, are also present. Each represents one of the five qualities of the Buddha, such as emptiness, equanimity, or pure perception. Referring to emptiness as a quality might raise some eyebrows, but it reflects the fact that true detachment is exactly what a devout Buddhist strives for. Vairocana, the Buddha associated with this quality, plays an important role in the monks' meditation practices.

Unfortunately, cameras and mobile phones are not allowed inside. This restriction feels especially unfortunate at the very top of the tower, where we enjoy a spectacular view of the wide bend of the Mangdi Chhu river. Below us lies the town, dominated by the imposing Choetse Dzong, surrounded on all sides by densely forested mountains.

 

Trongsa – Choetse Dzong

We have lunch at the foot of the ta dzong and then descend the mountain on foot, in search of the dzong. The fortress stubbornly hides behind the trees until it finally reveals itself in all its grandeur. Spectacularly, it balances on a high, narrow ridge. On some sides, the outer walls and the mountainside form a nearly vertical drop. The elongated shape of the building makes it a maze of corridors, stairs, and courtyards.

It was an envoy of the Shabdrung who supervised the construction of the dzong in 1644, not the Shabdrung himself as was customary. The building was renovated in 2007. Strangely enough, during the renovation, the decision was made to swap the two main functions of the dzong. The area that once housed the religious section is now used for administrative purposes, and vice versa.

 

Choetse Dzong

Stairs to the bridge over the river

An entrance gate, with two centuries-old mandalas painted on its wooden ceiling, leads us to a small courtyard. On the opposite side, you can exit the courtyard through another gate. From there, a staircase descends to the traditional bridge over the river. In the past, this was the route of the mule track that formed Bhutan's main thoroughfare, cutting right through the dzong.

Women in the dzong at night? That would be trouble, the monks must have thought

Women in the dzong at night? That would be trouble, the monks must have thought. So the dzong is off-limits to women after dark. They are required to sleep in a separate women’s tower, safely outside the fortress walls.

 

Mangdi Chhu Valley

Choetse Dzong – Dochey or courtyard

We climb to the oldest part of the dzong. Here, the great-grandfather of the Shabdrung is said to have discovered the famous hoofmark of Mahakala's horse. In 1541, a small meditation temple was established as a result. Today, the Chorten Dokham stands there, housing the remains of the founders of the dzong. In 1543, a second building was erected, but it would take another century before both buildings were integrated into a larger whole, resulting in the dzong as we see it today.

 

An extremely beautiful Wheel of Life adorns one of the vestibules

An extremely beautiful Wheel of Life adorns one of the vestibules. We are now familiar with it. As long as one does not succeed in escaping samsara, the eternal cycle of rebirths, one is reborn in one of the six realms represented in this Wheel of Life – the hells, and the worlds of hungry ghosts, animals, humans, demigods, and gods.

 

Mandala of the cosmic structure

But the mandala that represents the cosmic structure is a different matter. Four concentric circles symbolise water, earth, fire, and air. The four quadrants of the circles depict earthly scenes against a background of yellow, white, blue, and red. In the blue sector, Karma points out an image of Bodhgaya, the place in present-day India where the Buddha attained enlightenment. At the centre of it all, seven concentric golden rectangles are represented. Each rectangle represents a realm – one of the seven steps to heaven. The innermost rectangle contains the place of creations, where the earthly transitions into the heavenly realm. At the very top sits the Buddha with a lute – nirvana.

Cooperation pays off, is the obvious moral lesson

All frescoes date from after the renovation in 2007. So does the depiction of Thunpa Punshi or the Four Harmonious Friends. Karma is eager to tell us this moralising story. A bird finds a seed, picks it up, and drops it elsewhere through its droppings, allowing it to germinate. As the young tree begins to grow, a rabbit provides the necessary food, and a monkey provides the necessary water. Once the tree grows larger, an elephant provides protection and shade. The tree grows so big that our four harmonious friends can no longer reach the fruits it bears. No worries, they create a living pyramid – bird on rabbit on monkey on elephant. Cooperation pays off, is the obvious moral lesson. You will often find this scene in private homes, as it is believed to ensure harmony in the family.

Completely incomprehensible to us is the complex astrological geometry of mysterious characters in coloured squares. Those who know the code read the life story of the Shabdrung here, Karma explains. We can't make heads or tails of it.

 

Golden roof stupa

Small pavilion

Through dark corridors, we climb to the second courtyard of the dzong. Here, the festival is held every year, either in December or January, depending on the lunar calendar. Even though it takes place in the depths of winter, it remains one of the most popular festivals in the country.

 

Administrative staff in traditional gho with ritual kabney (scarf)

The third courtyard is finally the place where the second temple originally stood. At the far end now stands Jampa Lakhang, dedicated to Maitreya, the Buddha of the Future. Uninitiated individuals like us are kept out of that temple.

The purification ritual instructs us to drink some of the water before rubbing the rest over our hair

In the Kunre Lakhang, on the other hand, they don't obstruct our way at all. Two monks are sitting on the ground, praying undisturbed. Our presence initially doesn’t even cause them to look up. Then one of the monks interrupts his prayer to sprinkle a little holy water in our hands. The purification ritual instructs us to drink some of it before rubbing the rest over our hair.

This lakhang also serves as a dormitory for young monks. Yellow cloths protect the murals for that reason. Karma gives us a glimpse behind the curtains. Among other things, the lineage of the spiritual leaders of the Drukpa Kagyu is depicted, the most important monastic order in Bhutan. With such a chart on the wall, no one will doubt the legitimacy of the current leader as an emanation of an ancient tradition.

Shortly after four o'clock, Kuenzang drops us off in the city centre. Our exploration of Trongsa quickly falls through as the rain drives us back onto the bus. We then set off in search of the hotel, high above the valley on the other side of the river. It takes three-quarters of an hour to cover the twelve kilometres.

 

 

Raven Crown Resort is the new name given to the former Viewpoint Resort, perched high on the hill overlooking Trongsa. Fawlty Towers might have been a more fitting choice. One facility after another fails to meet expectations, leading to hilarious situations, especially when the receptionists can't understand English and even struggle to read the numbers on the keys. Karma diagnoses a weak management structure. To prevent chaos from unfolding in the restaurant as well, he steps in to lend a hand, ensuring things run a bit more smoothly.

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Friday 18 April | Trongsa – Gangteng – Thimphu

A nearly cloudless sky heralds a radiant day as we swing our legs out of bed just after five. Silently, the morning thermals carry fragile mists up the slopes. Across the valley, the dzong of Trongsa looms elusive in the mist. Cypress trees along the ridge cast long dark shadows over the pale fog. In the south, delicate morning rays caress the pale crown of the Black Mountain Range, while in the north, they bathe the cold snow peaks in a warm glow.

 

Dawn

That idyllic scene is heavily disrupted by the thunderous sound of two explosions echoing from down in the valley. Workers are blasting dynamite for yet another hydropower plant. For several seconds, the dull roar reverberates and roars in all directions through the valleys.

 

 

Shortly after half past six, Kuenzang hits the road. Karma has saved up some stories – some spicy, perhaps – to make the 200-kilometer journey to Thimphu more bearable. He begins by explaining that education in Bhutan was once the monopoly of monasteries, where individuals were essentially trained to become monks. The curriculum focused primarily on Buddhism and astrology. Later, young people were sent to Tibet to receive an education in traditional medicine.

It wasn't until the reign of the third king that modern education was introduced. He sent talented individuals to India for training and appointed the Canadian Jesuit William Mackey to establish an educational system in Bhutan, with a strict prohibition against proselytising – after all, you never know with those Jesuits.

With a strict prohibition against proselytising – after all, you never know with those Jesuits

An appalling scene briefly interrupts Karma's exposé. A brown-red minivan, having recently missed a turn, is wedged vertically between the rocks in the river, testament to a calamitous accident where it crashed through the railing of a bridge.

Karma resumes, explaining how the education system was first developed in the capital, Thimphu. Today, Bhutan boasts primary schools, secondary schools, colleges, universities, and even a form of adult education. The latter has played a crucial role in the necessary catch-up operation, as it was not enough to provide quality education for the youth; adults also needed to be literate.

Currently, education is no longer free. Parents must bear the costs of books, writing materials, uniforms, and other necessities. However, registration fees only apply from the age of 16 – 1,000 ngultrum per year, or nearly 13 euros, given that one euro is equivalent to 78 ngultrum. Boarding schools are available only in remote rural areas.

At the end of the tenth grade, students face a significant state examination. They must achieve a certain percentage, typically around 60%, which is set annually. If successful, they can continue their studies at a state school. If not, they must seek employment or consider private education – if they can afford to pay 40,000 to 50,000 ngultrum per year. Approximately 20% of youth can manage this, while the rest struggle financially, with some parents unable to pay even 1,000 ngultrum for the final years of state school.

At the end of twelfth grade, another crucial examination determines which students can select from available spots in colleges and universities. The questions for this exam are standardised across Bhutan.

Students can study to become teachers, nurses, or engineers. To secure a government job, they must pass the Royal Civil Service Examination (RCSE), as government positions are generally better paid than those in the private sector.

Attending a private university is two to three times more expensive than private education in high school. Some students go abroad to complete their studies, with Sri Lanka, Tamil Nadu, and Thailand being popular destinations for medical students, while aspiring engineers often head to West Bengal, Bihar, or Australia.

Karma’s parents believed he would take over the family farm and didn't see the need for him to spend time in school

Karma began his formal education at the age of ten, a few years later than most of his peers. His parents believed he would take over the family farm and didn't see the need for him to spend time in school. It was an uncle on his mother's side, who had earned a doctorate in Australia, who convinced Karma's parents to allow him to pursue his studies.

After completing the tenth grade, Karma managed to score slightly above the required 58%, allowing him to continue his education with history as his elective. Math has never been my strong suit, he grins. He also passed the examination at the end of twelfth grade, but his dream of becoming a teacher was not realised, as others had outperformed him.

After graduating high school in 2004 at the age of 24, Karma had the opportunity to undergo a three-month training course to become a tour guide. The subjects that were emphasised – English and history – appealed to him. This led to an internship as an assistant tour leader and a subsequent two-year period where he guided groups ranging from one to two people. Since 2008, he has been leading larger groups for a travel agency. Just like this one, he concludes with a smile.

 

Recent rock paintings…

…with tsatsas

The Black Mountain Range compels us to stop for a photo. A bit further on, religious drawings and English texts appear on the rock wall, while the ridge is scattered with tsatsas, tiny stupas containing the ashes of the deceased. This location also served as a backdrop for the film Travellers and Magicians, the first film ever shot entirely in Bhutan. Karma proudly declares that the director, Khyentse Norbu, won an Oscar for it in 2003, but this turns out to be untrue. However, the film did receive the Emerging Director Award at the Asian American International Film Festival in 2004 and won the Audience Award that same year at the Deauville Asian Film Festival. It tells a story about lust, desire, and jealousy, and the eternal question of whether the grass is really greener on the other side of the hill.

In terms of healthcare, medical care, surgeries, and hospital stays are free in Bhutan. The country has three major hospitals, but for really complicated surgeries, patients must be referred to India. With only two doctors per 100,000 inhabitants, Bhutan ranks at the bottom of the international healthcare list; for comparison, Belgium has three doctors per 1,000 inhabitants. This highlights the need for improvement in Bhutan's healthcare infrastructure.

It is built of white plastered natural stone, with richly carved wooden windows and an impressive cornice. No nails are used in its construction

Traditional house with open attic space

Once again, Karma's story is interrupted, this time by an authentic traditional house along the road that he wants to draw our attention to. It is built of white plastered natural stone, with richly carved wooden windows and an impressive cornice. No nails are used in its construction. The roof is constructed in three layers of wooden shingles held in place by heavy stones. Approximately 1,500 to 2,000 shingles are needed for one roof, and they need to be replaced regularly. It’s no wonder that corrugated sheets are increasingly appearing as an alternative. Between the three layers of the roof, the wind has free rein, creating a breezy attic where hay, hides, and peppers can be dried. At the very top of the roof, a prayer flag flutters.

Night hunting is what he’s referring to. It involves young men who go hunting in the dead of night. However, it’s not animals they are after

A very special tradition from Eastern Bhutan should not go unmentioned, says Karma. Night hunting is what he’s referring to. It involves young men who go hunting in the dead of night. However, it’s not animals they are after. Rather, they are targeting marriageable girls – preferably virgins. By stealthily climbing in, they gain secret access to their prey's parental home to have a little fun. That shouldn’t be too difficult; we recall the lamentable condition of the kitchen window in Karma's family home. However, this tradition is at risk of dying out, partly because modern houses are increasingly better secured – a development that Karma can only lament.

 

Lonely walker

Milking a yak

In principle, the girl is also in on the plot. During the day, they have planned the manoeuver together, and the girl has explained very precisely to the boy where her bed is located. At first glance, it seems like a piece of cake, as long as you’re a bit agile, to enter the house unnoticed and leave safely.

If the girl is not interested in the boy, she might direct him to her mother’s bed or – worse yet – her father’s

Traditional house with open attic space

But that is just an illusion. There are a few hidden pitfalls. If the boy shows no interest in the girl, she risks being left with a bastard child, which significantly reduces her chances of finding a new relationship. From her perspective, these escapades are therefore not as casual as they may seem.

On the other hand, if the girl is not interested in the boy, she might direct him to her mother’s bed or – worse yet – her father’s. In that case, the endeavour misses its mark, Karma observes pragmatically.

When the boy came to his senses, he found himself surrounded by the entire family. The trap had closed

But it can also go differently. There is a story about a boy who, during a night hunt, unknowingly lay down next to the master of the house on the floor. In search of the affection he thought he was entitled to, he first grabbed a bald head and then a beard. In a panic, he bolted out of the house, only to run straight into the closed front door. Unconscious, he fell to the ground. When he came to his senses, he found himself surrounded by the entire family. The trap had closed; there was no escaping now, and he was obliged to marry the daughter. The boy had fallen for it, as the girl already had a child from a previous adventure.

 

Contemporary house with open attic space

As we drive over the 3,390 m high Pele La, Karma indicates that even married couples sometimes indulge in such antics. If the husband is away for a while, it occasionally happens that the wife forgets to close the front door and signals with a special sign – such as a stack of stones in the front yard – that the coast is clear. Yes, it cannot be denied, Bhutan has rich traditions, Karma concludes his story with pride.

Yes, it cannot be denied, Bhutan has rich traditions, Karma concludes his story with pride

Just before nine, we leave the main road behind and search for the Phobjikha Valley. Between October and February, a small group of black-necked cranes comes here to winter. They also grow the best potatoes in Bhutan, if we are to believe Karma – and not in Chapcha, as Chimi had previously told us.

A few tame yaks are lazily hanging around among their droppings in the area of the 3,360 m high Lowa La. A woman is milking one of them. Further on, a black tent made of yak hides stands.

It doesn't take long before a wide, fertile valley unfolds before our eyes, carved out by a glacier. Bhutanese-style farms are scattered like pinheads among the fields. Expansive plots of land are ready to yield a new harvest.

 

Marshes with black-necked cranes

In the distance, the marshes where the black-necked cranes feel at home are barely visible. They hold ecology in high regard here. When the valley was provided with electricity a few years ago, the wires were immediately laid underground to avoid disturbing the cranes.

 

Phobjikha Valley

They plant potatoes here between December and February. The seed is buried at least 30 cm deep in the frozen ground, which is quite a task. Even then, the soil must be well mounded to protect the potatoes from frost. The harvest takes place between June and July.

Prominently situated on a hill amidst this green abundance is a village centred around the Gangteng Monastery of the Nyingma sect, built in the 17th century. About 4,500 inhabitants live here at an altitude of 2,900 meters above sea level.

 

Gangteng Monastery

Kuenzang drops us off at a place with a fairy-tale view of the valley. We stroll down through the sunlit landscape. At the foot of the hill, we are greeted by a mani, an ancient wall of stones. Each stone bears the inscription O mani padme hum, the mantra that invokes the Jewel in the Heart of the Lotus – a term of endearment for Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion.

 

Mani

At the edge of the village, a house is under construction. The earthen walls are being reinforced with horizontal wooden beams and firmly tamped down. These types of walls are said to be earthquake-resistant. The patient tamping is the women’s task, while a few men are busy assembling the wooden planks.

 

 

Ravens screech high in the trees as we enter the monastery. A dozen young monks are seated on the steps, reading their notebooks, but scatter as soon as they notice us. Sixty monks are permanently stationed here, with another 240 at the Buddhist university higher up the hill. The current abbot is the 9th reincarnation of the grandson of Pema Lingpa, the renowned terton. This monastery serves as the main seat of the Pema Lingpa tradition within the Nyingma school of Buddhism.

 

Gangteng Monastery

The façade of the monastery is adorned with richly painted woodwork. Garuda heads – half bird, half human – along with other mythical creatures, decorate the side walls. In a nearby workshop, a painter is carefully crafting new wooden friezes.

 

Mythical creatures against side wall		Garuda
Young monks		Painting new wooden friezes

A large statue of Guru Rinpoche, the Precious Master, dominates the prayer hall. He was the one who single-handedly secured Buddhism's place in Bhutan during the 8th century. Only the two frescoes on the front walls of the prayer hall have been completed, while the other walls remain covered with cloths.

In a chapel behind the statue, we find the famous kudung, an indoor stupa made of clay and covered in bronze. It is said to hold relics of the second reincarnation of Pema Lingpa. The chapel is filled with a thousand small statues of Guru Rinpoche, along with large figures of the seven heroic Buddhas – representing the Buddhas of the Past, Present, and Future, as well as the Buddhas of the North, East, South, and West. These should not be confused with the five dhyani Buddhas. Also noteworthy is the image of the Tangin, a fierce god with a horse's head.

 

Beard lichen

White rhododendron

A little after ten, we board the bus once again. The sun still shines unhindered in the blue sky. The bus gracefully winds its way through the spring landscape at a leisurely pace. We enjoy the red and white rhododendrons, the beard lichen hanging from the trees, and the distant white snow peaks. By half past eleven, we reach Kuenpheng Restaurant near Nobding for an early lunch. A photo composition of Bhutan’s five kings decorates the dining hall.

 

Bhutan’s five kings

Prickly pear

Downstream, we follow the valley of the Tang Chhu River westward. The burnt-out ruins of Wangdi Phodrang Dzong still lie there, picturesque as ever, though this time not backlit.

The only solution is to stop all vehicles during the work. Just a few times a day, at predetermined times, the roadblock is briefly lifted

With two more roadblocks ahead, we begin the climb towards the Do Chhu La pass. Diverting traffic during roadwork isn't an option in Bhutan, as this is the only road, with no alternatives. Alternating the traffic flow isn’t feasible either – the road is far too narrow to work on while vehicles are constantly passing. The only solution is to stop all vehicles during the work. Just a few times a day, at predetermined times, the roadblock is briefly lifted, allowing traffic in both directions to pass. So for us, it’s crucial to arrive at the roadblock exactly on time.

 

Ruins of the dzong of Wangdi Phodrang

Our timing is immediately off. We arrive at the first roadblock half an hour late, meaning an hour and a half of waiting – traffic won’t be let through again until four thirty. With around 60 kilometres still ahead and an average speed of 20 km/h, this delay is a frustrating setback. Fortunately, the roadside stalls are well-prepared for stranded travellers. With sharp commercial instinct, they offer tea, coffee, and snacks to help pass the time.

 

Do Chhu La

At exactly half past four, the convoy lurches into motion. Despite the narrow road, cars dart forward, quickly slaloming between buses and trucks. Around 5:40 pm, we finally make it over the Do Chhu La, only to be stopped at the second roadblock two minutes later. Fortunately, this time it's just a 20-minute wait. At 6:00 pm, the blockade is temporarily lifted, allowing us to continue on our way.

 

 

At three minutes to six, the convoy attempts to move again, but chaos ensues almost immediately. The long line of vehicles on both sides of the road becomes tangled, with none of the agitated drivers willing to yield. On the narrow road, larger vehicles can barely pass each other.

To make matters worse, an idle crane creates a bottleneck, and a heavily loaded truck with steel cables gets stuck in the mud – right next to our bus. The truck's engine roars, spewing clouds of black smoke as it sways back and forth in the muck, struggling to free itself. When its wheels finally find traction, the onlookers cheer in relief. But the damage it leaves in the road is sure to cause further trouble for those still to come.

 

 

But that's not our concern. Relieved, Kuenzang steps on the gas. Apparently, he's also feeling a bit frazzled – after all, he’s been behind the wheel since half past six this morning. He turns the descent into Thimphu into a wild roller coaster ride. We speed through the bends, we float above holes and boulders. Only a police checkpoint makes him slow down for a moment.

By half past seven, we arrive at the familiar Puntsho Pelri hotel in Thimphu, enveloped in darkness. We have covered just over 200 kilometres, averaging a speed of slightly more than 20 kilometres per hour.

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Saturday 19 April | Thimphu – Taktsang Gompa – Paro

Today, we have the absolute highlight of the trip ahead of us: a visit to Taktshang Gompa. This is by far the most famous site in Bhutan. It is nicknamed Tiger’s Nest because Guru Rinpoche is said to have flown there from Tibet on the back of a tigress – the form taken by his Tibetan wife for the journey. Since tigresses are not included in our budget, it will be a tough climb to the sanctuary high in the mountains. Not everyone is feeling reassured. The rapid transition of the morning sky from blue to dark grey doesn’t bode well either.

Since tigresses are not included in our budget, it will be a tough climb

First, we check our clothing attire. Before leaving Thimphu, we will visit the dzong. Access is only allowed in the evenings or on weekends; on weekdays, officials and monks are working there. Dress codes apply not only to Karma – who wears a gho and kabney – but also to us. Proper clothing is required, including a collared shirt. T-shirts or shorts are definitely not permitted.

 

Thimphu – Centenary Farmers Market

The famous Centenary Farmers Market also only comes to life on the weekend. Shortly after eight, we arrive there. Customers are scarce at this early hour, and the vendors are still setting up their goods.

 

 

On the ground floor, imported products from the south are offered. The first section is filled with locally sourced items – vegetables, fruits, dried cheese, fish, meat, and a fairly extensive section of incense and other fragrant products.

 

Cheesecake with herbs

Bacon, sausages

It is notably clean and organised, with even a map available. Large posters from UNICEF inform consumers about the health benefits of vegetables and fruits – against constipation, cancer, high blood pressure, heart disease, aging; in favour of healthy skin, strong teeth, good eyesight, and a strong skeletal system, and more.

 

Thimphu – Tashicho Dzong

The dzong turns out to be closed when we arrive. The two impeccably dressed guards are standing around casually by their guardhouses for now. It’s sunny, and the sky is blue. Behind the trees, on the riverbank, is the Lingkana, the royal palace. The king is present, so the whispers say. Photography is strictly forbidden. So, we can only glance, as looking is not allowed either.

Then the guards spring into position, and the gate swings open. Security is taken somewhat more seriously at Tashicho Dzong than elsewhere in Bhutan. Both visitors and their hand luggage pass through the X-ray check. Recent, very detailed images of the Four Heavenly Kings adorn the vestibule.

A dzong has stood here since the 13th century. In 1641, the Shabdrung took over the building and housed both monks and officials there. In 1962, the third king decided to move his residence from Punakha to Thimphu and to settle here. The Dratshang Lhentshog, the central authority of the Drukpa kagyu, the main monastic order of Bhutan – think of it as Bhutan's Vatican – is also located here. His Holiness the Je Khenpo is in charge – think of him as the pope of Bhutan; he is the 70th in a long line.

Whether His Holiness also has to stop for the roadblocks remains unclear

Currently, the religious administration is residing in its winter residence in Punakha. One day in April or May, they will return to their summer residence in Thimphu with all their belongings. The exact date of this move is determined based on the lunar calendar. They relocate twice a year. It's a significant migration of people over a distance of more than 80 km, involving a total of 450 to 500 people. Whether His Holiness also has to stop for the roadblocks remains unclear.

However, this is only half of the approximately one thousand monks registered at this monastery. The rest serve elsewhere as teachers or are engaged in meditation.

 

Tashicho Dzong – Large prayer hall

Tashicho Dzong – Vestibule of the prayer hall

Tashicho Dzong doesn't rely on its stunning location, like other major dzongs in Bhutan. Instead, it surprises visitors with its monumental dimensions.

 

Vestibule – Fierce deity

Bhavachakra (Wheel of Life)

The inner courtyard of the religious section is immense. On the left, we see the tall central tower, the utse, featuring an impressive, retractable wooden staircase. This is where the remains of the 69th Je Khenpo are kept. Behind the utse lies the administrative area, which is off-limits to tourists, even those wearing collared shirts.

 

Tashicho Dzong – Utse (tower building)

Tashicho Dzong – Library

A large statue of Sakyamuni dominates the prayer hall. To his left stands Vajra Sambhava, the god of purification, whom you are to worship first to ensure you appear clean for the occasion. On the right, we encounter for the first time a large statue of Akshobhya, one of the five Dhyani Buddhas, known as the Buddhas of Wisdom. The three statues are made of clay.

The abbot's assistants take care of important matters such as discipline, astrology, general affairs, and song and literature

Four honorific seats are prepared for the abbot's assistants. You could consider them his ministers, as they take care of important matters such as discipline, astrology, general affairs, and song and literature. On the right, we recognise the Shabdrung by his long, bluish-grey beard. A photo of the king and the 70th Je Khenpo reminds us that both the worldly and spiritual powers of Bhutan reside within these buildings. A thousand Buddhas are depicted on the side walls.

 

Monk’s quarters

Utse – Steep staircase

Roof stupa

The moment has come to embark on our final journey, specifically from Thimphu to Paro. This is the only decent road in Bhutan, fully asphalted along its entire length. It connects the capital with the only international airport in the country, serving as the primary point of contact for foreigners arriving in Bhutan.

Anyhow, it will be a relatively short ride. However, this doesn't stop Karma from brightening our spirits with some observations about the end of life for Bhutanese people. He wants to take a closer look at the burial rituals.

 

Schoolboys

Chhuzom – Wang Chhu

Three-quarters of the population of Bhutan is Buddhist, we learn, while one-quarter is Hindu. The latter are mainly Nepalese. When the third king wanted to modernise the country, he needed workers for road construction, and many Nepalese felt attracted to this opportunity. As a reward, they were later given land in the south of the country, as no one lived there anyway. However, not everyone is happy with this arrangement, and conflicts between the indigenous population and the Nepalese occur regularly.

In Bhutan, there is a certain degree of religious freedom, meaning you are free to practice any religion, but you cannot build a church or mosque, for example

In Bhutan, there is a certain degree of religious freedom, meaning you are free to practice any religion, but you cannot build a church or mosque, for example.

Back to the burial rituals. What happens when a Buddhist dies is prescribed in the holy books. This begins with reading some prayers that are meant to guide the soul on the right path. Prayers are also recited on the third, fourth, seventh, fourteenth, twenty-first, and forty-ninth days after death, which is intended to comfort the soul of the deceased. The number of monks involved depends on the material wealth of the family. Why these specific days? Because the soul is free from torment by other spirits during these times, Karma explains, and is open to what the monks have to say.

The soul is considered immortal. After death, it leaves the body and takes up residence in another body. The soul of a man who has lived a life of good deeds can, for example, reincarnate into another male body. After a life of bad deeds, however, his soul may be reborn as, say, a dog, a cow, or even a woman. Karma is not surprised that this last point might offend many of his clients. That's just how the Buddha wanted it, he grins.

After a life of bad deeds, however, a man’s soul may be reborn as, say, a dog, a cow, or even a woman

As we continue driving, mountain bikers come racing towards us on the flat pavement. Apparently, a cycling competition is taking place. This seems to be the only route in Bhutan where a cycling race can be organised without too much trouble. Organising here appears to be a relative term, as the cyclists ride among regular traffic, individually or in small groups, without any form of guidance.

 

Chhuzom – Paro Chhu Valley

Just after ten o'clock, we make a stop at Chhuzom, the place where the Paro Chhu and the Thimphu Chhu converge. Last Sunday, we dropped off Chimi here, and Kuenzang boarded to replace the unfortunate Namgyal. For traditional Bhutanese people, this is a very special place. The confluence is regarded as the union of a father river and a mother river. Therefore, on the opposite bank, small stupas or chortens have been erected in different styles, representing Nepal, Ladakh, Tibet, and Bhutan.

 

Confluence of the Paro Chhu and the Thimphu Chhu

Cycling race

Back to the burial rituals. Good and bad deeds are accumulated during your life in your karma, states Karma. After all, with a name like that, he should know. If your bad deeds lead you to the animal realm, it will be very difficult to return to humanity.

Even the Buddha is said to have been reincarnated as an animal 264 times before achieving enlightenment

Karma compares the situation to that of a blind turtle living on the ocean floor. Once every hundred years, it surfaces to find a yoke floating on the water. The chance that the turtle's head will poke through the opening of the yoke at that moment is about as likely as a dog being reincarnated as a human. So, one must be careful with their karma, Karma repeats. Even the Buddha is said to have been reincarnated as an animal 264 times before achieving enlightenment. This helps us understand why there are so many dogs in Bhutan.

 

Paro Chu – Suspension Bridge to Tachog Lakhang

An antique metal suspension bridge connects two traditional-style white towers, leading to a small monastery building on the other side of the Paro Chhu. This monastery, Tamchhog Lakhang, is privately owned by the descendants of Thangtong Gyalpo, a 15th-century monk who became a terton.

 

Iron suspension bridge with prayer pennants

Perhaps even greater than his fame as a terton is that of a bridge builder. Thangtong Gyalpo was likely one of the very first in the world to use heavy iron chains in the construction of suspension bridges. He built eight such bridges in Bhutan, along with about a hundred in Tibet. The fact that none of them are still standing – the last one was washed away in 2004 – does not diminish his achievement.

While the cyclists continue to whiz by in scattered formation over the smooth asphalt behind us, we observe one of those bridges. It was restored in 2005, partially using original links.

 

 

Back to the burial rituals. Astrologers determine which day is suitable for the cremation. Generally, this occurs on the third or fourth day after death. The ashes are subsequently scattered in a river. Pieces of the skull are mixed with clay to make tsatsas. Those who are financially well-off can even afford a proper stupa.

Electric cremations are not very popular at all. Coming from a people that has even banned traffic lights from its capital, we are not surprised by this in the least

Nowadays, it is also possible to cremate a body electrically, but this is only done for the deceased who have no family. Electric cremations are not very popular at all. Coming from a people that has even banned traffic lights from its capital, we are not surprised by this in the least.

The family will also erect poles with prayer flags. In principle, there are 108 of these, and they remain standing until the prayer flags have deteriorated. Even in this harsh climate, this can take quite a long time, as we have noted on several occasions.

Each prayer flag features a mantra, such as a mantra for a swift rebirth or a powerful mantra for someone who did not take life too seriously. However, by far the most popular mantra is the classic Om mani padme hum – the invocation of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. The flag itself also refers to Avalokiteshvara, while the knife at the top of the pole serves as a reminder of Manjushri, the bodhisattva of wisdom, who uses his knife to cut away all evil. Finally, the pole represents Vajrapani, the third great bodhisattva, symbolising strength and victory.

However, dismembering children before feeding them to the vultures – as is customary in Tibet – is not done here, Karma reassures us

Children aged eight or younger are not cremated, as they have not yet consciously committed any bad deeds. Sometimes, the bodies are thrown into the river as food for the fish, while other times they are placed in a high spot in the mountains for the vultures to feast on. By returning them to nature in this way, their rebirth can occur more swiftly. However, dismembering children before feeding them to the vultures – as is customary in Tibet – is not done here, Karma reassures us.

Elderly people aged exactly 81 are not cremated either, as that is considered a very unfavourable age. If Grandpa were to inconveniently pass away at 81, you simply bury him temporarily. On the day he would have turned 82, you dig up what remains of him and cremate that.

We skip Paro for the moment and go straight to Taktshang Gompa, the famous Tiger's Nest, little more than ten kilometres further on. We pause for a moment at a height west of the runway of the international airport, where at 10:52 am, a Bhutan Airlines flight takes off. Tomorrow, we will be on that very plane. With its wingtips nervously bobbing up and down, it zigzags steeply between the high mountains on its way south.

 

On the way to Taktshang Gompa (top in the distance)

It's almost eleven thirty when we arrive at the parking lot of Tiger’s Nest. There are quite a few minibuses, including even a police van. As usual, various pieces of information contradict each other, but it seems we will have to climb for about an hour to reach 300 meters higher – from over 2,600 m to 2,940 m. And that’s not even where the monastery itself is, but rather a viewpoint from which you can see the monastery on the other side of the gorge. The full trek is too ambitious for the time we have.

 

Oxygen is scarcer than usual in the thin atmosphere

Sweating and panting, panting and groaning, puffing and groaning, we make our way up. The path is steep, oxygen is scarcer than usual in the thin atmosphere. Our physical condition has certainly not improved over the years. Bend after bend, new stretches keep appearing, ever steeper, there seems to be no end to it.

 

 

That end finally arrives, in the form of Taktsang Cafeteria. Our best climbers make it in less than an hour, but after an hour and a half, even the less fit among us reach the top. The effort is rewarded with Bhutan's most famous view. Across a 900-meter-deep gorge, about two hundred meters higher than where we are now, we see Taktsang Gompa, the Tiger's Nest. A handful of monastery buildings cling to the sheer rock face as if a divine hand had fastened them there with superglue.

Visiting Taktsang Gompa at least once in a lifetime is the wish of every Buddhist in Bhutan, according to Karma, who cheerfully followed us up the climb with ease. When Guru Rinpoche set his sights on converting Bhutan in the 8th century, this was the second place he visited in the country, after Bumthang. As befits a Tantric master, he flew in on the back of a tigress, naturally in his fierce manifestation of Vajrakila. At a bizarre spot on the cliffside, he sat and meditated for precisely three years, three months, three weeks, three days, and three hours. His meditation was so intense that he brought a local deity to its knees. This immediately paved the way for the introduction of Buddhism to the region.

As befits a Tantric master, he flew in on the back of a tigress

Paro – Taktsang Gompa, the Tiger's Nest

Later, other masters also came to meditate at this site. Among them was the Shabdrung, who had a temple built there in 1692. Since then, the temple has burned down several times – wooden buildings and candles are, after all, a fatal combination. The most recent fire occurred in September 1998. By 2005, the temple was fully restored. Today, only a few monks live there.

 

Paro – Kyichu Lakhang

Just after two, we quickly decide to visit Kyichu Lakhang, meaning our lunch will be very late. Like the Jampa Lakhang in Bumthang, this temple is one of the 108 that were built in 659 in a single day – a legendary feat intended to permanently subdue a giant female demon. It was known that this demon lay on her back, with her limbs spread across Tibet and Bhutan. If temples could be built on each of her joints by surprise, she would be rendered powerless forever. Remarkably, the bold plan succeeded. This Kyichu Lakhang, Karma explains, was built to immobilise her left foot.

 

Gebedstrommels

The Twin Temples, as this sanctuary is sometimes called, got its name because in 1968, the mother of the fourth king found it necessary to add a second temple in exactly the same style. The old cremation site is still in use, now covered by a canopy. In the 17th century, the original temple was renovated and expanded, but the central chapel remains in its original state after more than 13 centuries.

At the heart of this ancient chapel stands a large statue of the Buddha. It must be Maitreya, the Buddha of the Future – we immediately recognise him by his golden crown with five pointed tips. No, Karma corrects us, pointing out the two disciples beside the statue. How could the Buddha of the Future already have followers? This is Sakyamuni, the historical Buddha. Quite logical, really, that Buddhism.

 

Pilgrims with prayer wheels

In the new temple, a monk sits murmuring prayers behind his little table. Here, a giant clay statue of Guru Rinpoche dominates, flanked by Avalokiteshvara and a Tara. As always, two elephant tusks stand in front of the altar, but here they are exceptionally large. A stupa contains the relics of the spiritual master of the mother of the fourth king, who commissioned this temple.

It's already past three when we settle down for lunch in the completely empty restaurant of Hotel Jigmaling. We still have one more visit ahead. This time, not a temple, but a dzong. And not just any dzong, but Rinpung Dzong, built on a hill that, according to legend, resembles a mountain of jewels – hence the name, which is actually Rinchen Pung Dzong in full.

In 1993, the famous Italian film director Bertolucci found the dzong authentic enough to film several scenes of Little Buddha here. The fact that the dzong is just a stone's throw from the airport likely also played a part.

Italian film director Bertolucci found the dzong authentic enough to film several scenes of Little Buddha here

Paro – Rinpung Dzong

From a height, we look down on Paro, the valley, and the dzong. On foot, we descend toward the fortress monastery, which is said to be the most impressive in Bhutan – if we are to believe Karma. In 1646, the Shabdrung built it on the ruins of an old temple dedicated to Guru Rinpoche. High on the mountain behind us, the ta dzong rises, housing the National Museum of Bhutan. However, the earthquake of September 2011 caused significant damage there. The renovation is expected to take three years.

 

Rinpung Dzong – Gatehouse

Utse (tower building)

In a clockwise direction, we walk around the large prayer flag toward the entrance gate, as is customary. In the vestibule, we are greeted by the familiar Four Heavenly Kings. This leads us to the windy dochey. The imposing utse has five stories.

 

Courtyard or dochey

A few young monks are selling prayer flags at the entrance of the kunre. They are playful and challenging, and quite photogenic. In fact, this kunre is not a real prayer hall but the dormitory for the young monks. The altar is very simple, featuring only statues of Sakyamuni and eight of his disciples.

Karma points out a Dharmachakra, or Wheel of the Law. The eight spokes symbolise the Noble Eightfold Path that leads us to enlightenment. Typically, the wheel is flanked by two deer, representing the Buddha’s first sermon in Sarnath, India.

Simply viewing the thangka allows one to shake off negative karma

The pride of every monastery is its tongdrel. This is a gigantic thangka from the 19th century, woven on precious Chinese brocade. Measuring 6 meters by 18.5 meters, it depicts Guru Rinpoche. Safely stored in a long case against the wall of the hall, it awaits the next tshechu, the annual festival. On the last day of the festival, it will be unfurled just before sunrise. No pilgrim wants to miss this, as simply viewing the thangka allows one to shake off negative karma.

 

Utse

Entrance of the kunre

Several 17th-century murals are covered with yellow cloths. Karma lifts a corner of the cover, allowing us to glimpse scenes dedicated to Manjushri, Avalokiteshvara, and a Tantric deity. The most stunning by far is the triad of Guru Rinpoche, the Buddha, and the Shabdrung.

 

Rinpung Dzong

Via a wide, stone pathway, passing between white walls, we descend down to the river, heading toward the traditional bridge over the Paro Chhu. In the meantime, the sun has reappeared on the scene.

 

Archer competition

A little further down lies the local archery range. Two teams of traditional archers are competing against each other. Brightly coloured, wide flags in white, green, red, blue, and yellow hang from their belts. We can barely distinguish the white plank that sticks up about 60 cm from the ground, 145 meters away, with a target barely 20 cm in diameter. Each time an archer hits the plank – even if it’s not a bullseye – the opposing team joyfully dances and sings in celebration. If the shot misses, however, loud, mocking comments come from those same opponents.

 

Happy dance, even when it is the opponent who scores

Almost on target from 145 m away

Just before six, we settle down at Hotel Olathang. This residence was constructed with considerable grandeur in 1974 to accommodate some of the guests for the coronation of the fourth king. Since then, it has lost quite a bit of its charm. So much so that one might wonder if any charm remains at all.

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Sunday 20 April | Paro – Kolkata

Cuddling a bit closer than usual, we set off on our final trip just after eight. For the short ride to the airport, our luggage has been stored inside the bus rather than on the roof. Twenty minutes later, we say goodbye to Karma and Kuenzang.

Under a sunny blue sky, we walk toward the only Airbus A319 in the fleet of Bhutan Airlines. About half of the seats on the plane are occupied. Russian inscriptions remind us of the origins of this second-hand aircraft. The flight attendants dutifully go through all the procedures, including instructions on how to use life vests during our flight over the Himalayas.

 

Paro with Paro Chhu and small airport

Taking off here is no easy task. The pilot taxis to the northern end of the runway, makes a right turn, and immediately gives full power. At 10:51 am we take off. Immediately, we're veering left, then right, and back to the left again to avoid the mountains.

Below us unfolds a landscape of rice terraces, forested slopes, and dirt tracks winding up those hills. Occasionally, a village appears in a broader valley, surrounded by fields. In the distance, the snow-capped peaks of the foothills of the Himalayas rise above the clouds.

Immediately, we're veering left, then right, and back to the left again to avoid the mountains

Paro Chhu Valley

Himalaya

Suddenly, the plain emerges almost out of nowhere. Mighty rivers drain the Tibetan plateau, which seems to rise like a vertical wall from the plain. Green, wet rice fields make their appearance now. This is not surprising – each year, the monsoons collide with that wall and pour their load over the fields like a deluge.

At a quarter to twelve, we land at Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose International Airport, located just northeast of Kolkata, formerly known as Calcutta, in the Indian state of West Bengal. The thermometer reads a sultry 35 °C (95 °F). It’s easy to understand why British officials were eager to trade these lowlands for hill stations like Darjeeling and Kalimpong.

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Jaak Palmans
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