Measuring National Happiness

India – Bhutan | Anno 2014

 

Saturday, April 12 | Kalimpong – Phuntsholing

Sunday, April 13 | Phuntsholing – Gedu – Chhuzom – Thimphu

Monday, April 14 | Thimpu

 

 

Saturday, April 12 | Kalimpong – Phuntsholing

It’s sunny this morning, but mist continues to dominate the valleys around Kalimpong. Once, this was an important town on the silk route that led through the fertile valleys of Sikkim to Tibet. From 1865 onward, it was the British who held sway here. Always in search of cooler climates, they discovered that the pleasant weather of Kalimpong was certainly on par with that of Darjeeling, despite the town being much lower – 1 200 meters instead of 2 150 meters. That makes quite a difference. Even vegetables and flowers can be cultivated in this fertile valley. After a small conflict with Bhutan, Kalimpong easily fell into British hands and became an important administrative centre.

 

Teesta River

For us, this will be a transition day, with a ride of over 170 km that will take us to the enigmatic Bhutan. After about half an hour, we cross the Teesta at Teesta Bazar and climb high above the river via the NH10. The once mighty Teesta has retreated into its narrowest channel. Wide sandbanks lie exposed in the sun, especially in the wide bends. The rains of the past nights have apparently brought little change to that.

The once mighty Teesta has retreated into its narrowest channel

 

We make good progress on the excellent road until kilometres of roadworks throw a wrench in the works. BRO is laying down an entirely new road surface. This earns our respect, as the battle that this Border Roads Organisation wages against the relentless monsoons and earthquakes in this mountainous region seems never-ending. The task assigned to BRO when it was founded in 1960 was to provide and maintain roads in India's border areas. And it must be said, they do so with distinction. They even work in neighbouring countries like Bhutan.

 

Sevoke – Coronation Bridge over the Teesta

When a gigantic bridge had to be built over the Teesta near Sevoke in 1937, it didn’t take long to find a suitable name. The colossal structure would be called Coronation Bridge, as it so happened that George VI – father of the current Queen Elizabeth II – was crowned King of the United Kingdom that same year. The bridge towers high above the river. In the misty distance, we can make out the green plains of the Brahmaputra. Two lion statues guard the western entrance to the bridge. The local population calls it Baghpool – Tiger Bridge – because of this.

Unfazed, they sit on the asphalt amidst the heavy traffic, not moving an inch. And they have a very good reason for it

Macaques dominate the far side of the bridge. Unfazed, they sit on the asphalt amidst the heavy traffic, not moving an inch. And they have a very good reason for it – passengers from the buses regularly throw food to them.

 

Ellenbarrie Tea Estate – Tea plantation

While the NH10 winds its way southward towards the plains, we opt for the NH31 heading east. Mongpong announces itself as the garrison town of the Trishakti Signalers, the first but certainly not the last garrison town on this route. Soon after, we find ourselves amidst the tea plantations of the Ellenbarrie Tea Estate. This is Assam tea, a lowland tea – so not as high in quality as the tea from Darjeeling.

 

Tea pickers

A few dozen tea pickers are at work among the plants. Many of them are from Bangladesh, as the youth of West Bengal often turns up their noses at this kind of work. They carry sacks on their backs for the plucked leaves, unlike in Darjeeling, where woven baskets are used. Trees provide shade for both the workers and the plants, but they also draw water from the ground. This helps prevent the tea plants from getting too much water during the monsoon.

 

Tea pickers

Strange towers appear between the wet rice fields, resembling watchtowers. Several monsoon rivers cross our path. Their immense riverbeds are mostly dry, but during the monsoon, they will be filled to the brim with swirling water.

The Tourist Lodge of Malbazar offers us a brief respite. Cycle rickshaws are a prominent feature of the street scene here. In this flat land, that’s not surprising, but this morning in the hilly town of Kalimpong, they would have been of little use.

The road then enters the jungle forest. Wild bears and elephants inhabit this area, which explains the presence of the watchtowers. At night, guards take up positions there to prevent unwanted visitors from destroying the crops.

Wild bears and elephants inhabit this area, which explains the presence of the watchtowers

On the straight, flat road, there is hardly any significant traffic. Driver Sanghi comfortably maintains a cruising speed of 75 kilometres per hour. To our left in the distance, the railway line connecting Assam with Delhi runs alongside us.

The subtropical nature of this area is unmistakable, with even palm trees in sight. For dozens of kilometres, tea plantations stretch out on either side of the road, seemingly reaching the horizon. The thought that all those leaves will one day have to be picked by hand is mind-boggling.

Just before noon, we pass Jaldapara National Park, where, reportedly, rhinos and bison can be observed. Occasionally, tigers are released there for the benefit of tourists. It is said that only around 1 400 tigers remain in India today.

We cross the Torsa River, one of the mighty rivers that drains the high mountains into the Brahmaputra. Gradually, in the misty distance, the hills of Bhutan begin to appear.

From Hasimara, we head definitively north towards Bhutan. A passenger train bound for Assam crosses our path. Banana trees and betel nut palms line the road, while the tea plantations continue to stretch as far as the eye can see. A magnificent tree with fiery red flowers dominates the village centre – sometimes referred to as the Flame of the Forest.

 

Jaigaon

At a quarter to one, we reach the Indian border town of Jaigaon, located on the banks of the Torsa River. Together with the Bhutanese border town of Phuntsholing, it forms a twin city. A modest wall, sometimes no more than a simple fence, runs between the houses, marking the international border. Yet, a greater contrast between two worlds is hardly imaginable. On the Indian side, there's a chaotic whirlwind of noise and honking, while just a few dozen meters away, on the Bhutanese side, there is perfect, almost rural tranquillity.

Yet a greater contrast between two worlds is hardly imaginable. And that at most a few dozen meters from each other

The border formalities are minimal. On the Indian side, we simply fill out a small form and get a stamp in our passports. Barely twenty minutes later, we pass through Bhutan’s impressive gate without any further procedures. On either side, we are greeted by an image of the Roaring Dragon – the emblem of the country. Just like that, we find ourselves in Phuntsholing without any paperwork. Along with Samdrup Jongkhar, further to the east, it is the only overland entry point into Bhutan.

Immediately, the flat plains of India give way to Bhutan's slopes. According to the saying, Bhutan's border lies where a stone rolling down from the Himalayas finally comes to rest. Shortly after, the jeeps drop us off at Hotel Lakhi. We set our watches half an hour ahead, as the time difference with Belgium is now four hours. We also say farewell to our Indian guides and drivers.

Bhutan's border lies where a stone rolling down from the Himalayas finally comes to rest

Ngultrum is the name of the Bhutanese currency. It turns out to be worth exactly the same as the Indian rupee – at least in Bhutan, as it is completely worthless outside the country. But we need not worry; you can use rupees everywhere in Bhutan. So, the goal is to spend the ngultrums we receive as change as quickly as possible.

As soon as we get the outdated tube television in our room to work, it informs us that yesterday in Paro, the annual tshechu festival began. For five days, religious dances will be performed to pay tribute to Guru Rinpoche, the Precious Master. He is said to be a very holy man, reportedly born from a lotus flower – hence his alternative name, Padmasambhava, the Lotus-Born. He single-handedly gave a significant boost to the introduction of Buddhism in both Tibet and Bhutan during the eighth century.

Pilgrims come from far and wide to attend such festivals. Participating in a tshechu contributes to one's positive karma and reduces the risk of setbacks in life. Hoping to achieve that same effect through the television, we take our seats in front of the screen. A colourful spectacle unfolds, especially when the traditional cham dances begin – pantomime dances performed by monks whose faces are hidden behind impressive papier-mâché masks. With solemn movements, they whirl like slowly spinning tops across the grounds, their richly embroidered mantles billowing out wide. It’s impressive, as far as we can distinguish what is happening through the snow on the screen.

With solemn movements, they whirl like slowly spinning tops across the grounds, their richly embroidered mantles billowing out wide

It’s half past three when a certain Dawa arrives and immediately apologises. For unclear reasons, our regular guide is still unavailable. Dawa will temporarily take over the duties. He usually spends his days as an office worker, so guiding tourists is not really his thing.

We walk down to the border post. Apparently, we spoke too soon. There is still some paperwork awaiting us at the immigration office. We need to fill out an Arrival Card and a Baggage Declaration, and oddly enough, a Departure Card as well. A cheerful chaos ensues, as no one seems to know exactly what should be filled out where. Nonetheless, we manage to complete the task in just twenty minutes.

Even Bhutan has embraced the digital age, it turns out. Our personal information, fingerprints, and photo will be entrusted to the computer. We line up neatly. Since March 1, fingerprint registration has been mandatory, Dawa informs us. He adamantly assures us that he will personally contest this decision with the government, as it deters tourists. The government should be warned.

Before long, things begin to go awry. We patiently endure the absurd situation. While taking the obligatory photo may be routine, fingerprinting is a different story. It takes up to eight attempts before the computer recognises the patterns of our fingertips. Nearly half an hour later, we finally step back out onto the street, relieved.

 

Phuntsholing – Gate of Bhutan

Crossing the border proves to be a breeze – in both directions. We quickly pop back into the chaotic place known as India for a photo of the famous gate to Bhutan, this time with the sun behind us.

Each time a truck crosses the stone bridge, it rumbles as if it were a bamboo suspension bridge

We quickly flee back to the tranquillity of Bhutan. When it comes to noise, crowds, traffic chaos, and litter, India and Bhutan are like night and day. Dawa leads us to Zangdok Palri Lakhang, a temple that claims to be a replica of Zangdok Palri, the heavenly abode of Guru Rinpoche.

 

Phuntsholing – Zangdok Palri Lakhang

A small sanctuary is surrounded by a park filled with greenery. According to Dawa, it's the only place in the city where both young and old can find peace. Strangely, it seems to us that you can find tranquillity anywhere in this town. Walking around the temple – preferably 108 times – contributes to your positive karma. Apparently, it is mainly older people who are concerned about their spiritual well-being. Vigorously waving their prayer wheels, they seek to free themselves from their bad deeds.

 

Pilgrims working on their karma

 

Dawa guides us further up into the city, toward the bridge over the Dhoti River. Prayer flags flutter above the water. Beneath a pavilion, three large prayer drums stand waiting. Each time a truck crosses the stone bridge, it rumbles as if it were a bamboo suspension bridge.

 

Phuntsholing – Pavilion with prayer drums

The covered vegetable market on the right bank is small but charming. They sell vegetables, fruits, and herbs, as well as some fish and meat. Tourists don’t cause much of a stir here; their presence is likely a regular occurrence so close to the gateway to Bhutan.

 

Phuntsholing – Vegetable market

 

Archery is something you can’t overlook in Bhutan. It is the national sport for all ages – at least for the male population. On the left bank of the Dhoti River, we climb up to the local archery range. Along the way, Dawa points out a kapok tree, which provides the white cotton used as stuffing for pillows, and rice noodles hanging on bamboo scaffolding to dry. Higher up, the sinister walls of a prison loom above us.

We can’t blame them for not hitting the target often – the target is a staggering 145 meters away

Archers with composite bows

On the practice range, several men are busy with their composite bows. The bows have no sights or triggers; everything is done manually. The strength required to launch an arrow is comparable to lifting a weight of 35 kg. The target is a staggering 145 meters away; we can barely make it out with the naked eye. The Olympic distances are only 50 m, 70 m, and 90 m, the archers tell us. We can’t blame them for not hitting the target often.

Back at the hotel, we gradually learn about the circumstances surrounding our regular guide. His grandfather’s illness forces him to be absent. A certain Chimi will temporarily take over his duties. How long she will accompany us remains uncertain.

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Sunday, April 13 | Phuntsholing – Gedu – Chhuzom – Thimphu

Already during breakfast, Chimi makes her appearance. She brings with her a brand-new Toyota Cruiser, with barely 411 km on the odometer. The van has never carried passengers, and the license plates are conspicuously absent. This last detail is not a problem, as we learn, because license plates are not required during the first month. The taciturn Namgyal takes his place behind the wheel.

Our destination is Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, at an altitude of 2 250 meters. That means we will be climbing almost 2 000 meters, as Phuntsholing is only 300 meters above sea level. And it will be quite a bit colder up there.

By Bhutanese standards, the small town of Phuntsholing is quite busy, Chimi begins, as nearly everything that enters or leaves Bhutan passes through here. Until now, we had mainly noticed Phuntsholing as an oasis of tranquillity. Many Bhutanese come here to spend the winter due to the subtropical climate. Fruits such as oranges, pineapples, and jackfruit, or nangka, even grow here.

 

Torsa Valley

Barely five kilometres further along, we arrive at the Kharbandi Gompa near Richending. This is a very recent temple, overlooking the Torsa Valley, built in 1967 by the grandmother of the current king. She often came here to escape the winter chill of the capital, Thimphu – where temperatures in December and January barely rise above –10 °C (14 °F).

 

Richending – Kharbandi Gompa

It is also a living temple. Chimi does not hesitate to bow her forehead to the ground three times and offer fifty ngultrum before she proceeds with the day's agenda.

Bhutanese people revere Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal as the father of the nation

The three statues against the back wall form a triad, the tsulum tusum, she specifies. In the centre is the Buddha, on the left is Guru Rinpoche, and on the right is Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. The latter figure is new to us. We will come to recognise him by his long, blue-grey beard. Bhutanese people revere him as the father of the nation. Originally, he was a monk at the Ralung monastery in Tibet. There, he was recognised as a reincarnation of the abbot, but not everyone agreed with this. The ground became too hot under his feet, and on the advice of the protective deity Mahakala – who appeared to him in the form of a raven – he fled to Bhutan in 1616.

There, he was welcomed with open arms when it became clear that he curbed the lawlessness that prevailed and united the country under one authority – his own. He soon took the title Shabdrung Rinpoche, He to Whom One Submits. He built many dzongs to defend the country, against the Tibetans, of course. Literally, dzong means fortress, but in reality, they are impressive fortress-monasteries that combine military, administrative, and religious functions.

He curbed the lawlessness that prevailed and united the country under one authority – his own

Fourteen small bowls of holy water are placed on the altar. Multiples of seven are sacred since the Buddha took seven steps after his birth. The water is meant to quench the thirst of the petas, spirits of deceased people who cannot let go of their possessions, preventing them from being reborn and causing them to wander in hunger and thirst.

We are captivated by several beautiful tormas, sophisticated butter sculptures made from butter, sugar, and tsampa or barley flour. Natural minerals provide the vibrant colours. Based on their size and colour, they are associated with a specific deity, Chimi explains. Once they have served their purpose, they are placed on the roof, where crows come to peck at them. This can happen after just a few days or not until a year later.

 

Kharbandi Gompa – Chortens

Prayer drums, chorten

As in most temples in Bhutan, taking photos inside is not allowed. On one hand, this is because photographs might take away a bit of the sanctity from the images, and on the other, because the photos may not always be treated with the respect they deserve afterwards. Sometimes, photography is permitted indoors. Chimi has a simple rule for us: no shoes, no photos. Where shoes must be removed, photography is also not allowed.

Nowhere in Bhutan will you find a straight stretch of road that is one hundred meters long

Nowhere in Bhutan will you find a straight stretch of road that is one hundred meters long, so the saying goes. Namgyal certainly has his hands full with the steering wheel. Meanwhile, Chimi becomes quite the chatterbox. Bhutanese people in traditional attire are a common sight in the countryside. This is much less the case in Phuntsholing due to the warmer climate. However, since the 1980s, it has been mandatory to wear traditional clothing for official events and at work. For women, this is the khira, and for men, it is the gho. In principle, the khira consists of a single piece of fabric, but Chimi wears the modern version – a blouse and long skirt.

 

Rhesus macaques

For both genders, there is a type of scarf worn on top. Women casually drape their narrow raichu over their shoulder, while men are expected to carefully knot their wider kabney. Without traditional clothing – including the scarf – Bhutanese people cannot enter a dzong. Important individuals wear a monochrome scarf. The colour is yellow for the king, green for judges, blue for members of parliament, and red for ministers. Ordinary folks must wear a patterned scarf.

If you cut down a tree, you are required to plant two new ones in its place

Bhutan has a population of 732 000 spread over an area of 38 500 km². This is slightly smaller than Switzerland. Of this, 72,5 % is covered by forests. Bhutan is very serious about ecology. The constitution mandates that at least 60 % of Bhutan's area must remain forested. Commercial logging is prohibited. If you cut down a tree, you are required to plant two new ones in its place.

The official name of this country is Druk Yul, the Land of the Thunder Dragon. The official language is Dzongkha – literally the fortress language – but there are a total of 18 languages spoken. The raven is the national bird, the blue poppy is the national flower, the cypress is the national tree, archery is the national sport, and the takin is the national animal – whatever that animal may be.

Bhutan consists of twenty districts and three peoples, Chimi continues her presentation. In the west, the Ngalop dominate, a people of Tibetan origin, while in the east, the Sharchop, a people of Burmese origin, prevail. Together they form the Drukpa, who account for 69 % of the population. The Drukpa consider themselves the indigenous people of Bhutan.

Then there are the Lhotshampa, who have recently migrated from Nepal. The Drukpa sometimes set themselves apart from them, labelling them as foreigners. Officially, their number is estimated at 28 %, but in reality, it could be much higher.

Additionally, there are a few small ethnic groups, such as the nomadic Brokpa in the north, related to the inhabitants of Sikkim, and the Doya in the south, related to the people of the Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh.

In 1974, a very remarkable man became the fourth king

All these ethnic groups cannot conceal the fact that Bhutan is a tiny dwarf state nestled between two giants – India and China. If all the Indians down in the plains at the border came and stood there blowing, it would cause a gale in Bhutan, says Chimi. If all the Chinese up in the Himalayas came and stood at the border to pee, Bhutan would flood, she adds with a giggle. We try to imagine it.

In 1974, a very remarkable man became the fourth king: Jigme Singye Wangchuk. He was only 19 years old, but he would thoroughly transform the country, always striving for a balance between modernisation and tradition. His attachment to tradition was evident when, in 1979, he married four women – specifically four sisters, who have since been referred to as the four queens.

When Jigme Singye voluntarily handed over the reins to his eldest son, Jigme Khesar Namgyel, the current king, in December 2006, he had put Gross National Happiness (GNH) on the map, a concept that is considered more important in Bhutan than Gross National Product (GNP) and is now even mentioned in the Constitution.

 

Gedu – Traditional houses

Gross National Happiness, Chimi explains, rests on four pillars: respect for nature, good governance, quality education, and good health. Remarkably, GNH is measurable, as surveyors go out every few years to assess the happiness of Bhutanese citizens. Those who cannot read or write are assisted by their family members. Interestingly, the middle class is found to be the happiest, while businesspeople are the least happy – because they are constantly chasing profits, Chimi adds knowingly.

 

 

Bhutan is the last remaining Buddhist kingdom in the Himalayas. Its flag is divided into two equal halves: yellow represents the king, while orange symbolises Buddhism. In the centre stands a roaring white dragon, a reference to the country's name, Druk Yul, the Land of the Thunder Dragon. The open jaws of the dragon are said to remind people of the two protective deities, Mahakala and Mahakali. The nation upholds four core values: the monarchy, Buddhism, traditional craftsmanship, and the individual.

 

Facade paintings

Man dressed in traditional gho

Shortly after ten, we make a stop in Gedu. Since 2008, the town has hosted a fully-fledged College of Business Studies, part of the Royal University of Bhutan. When we return to the bus after a brief walk, we learn that our driver, Namgyal, has received devastating news. His son, just fourteen years old, has passed away. He had been staying in a monastery in Orissa, India, and only two days ago had complained of severe stomach pain over the phone. Arrangements are quickly made to summon a replacement driver.

Namgyal, even quieter than before, continues to steer the bus along the winding road. Meanwhile, Chimi carries on with her narrative as if nothing had happened. She explains that the Ngalop people in the west follow the Drukpa Kagyu school of Buddhism, known as the Yellow Hat sect, while the Sharchop people in the east belong to the Nyingma tradition, the oldest school in Tibetan Buddhism, often associated with the Red Hats.

Chimi is a veritable encyclopaedia of facts. In one breath, she informs us that the population growth rate is 1,13 ‰, that 4,5 % of children don’t reach the age of three, and that life expectancy is 69 years for men and 70 years for women. Furthermore, 52,5 % of the population is literate, though this remains primarily a male accomplishment, as 61 % of women are still illiterate. Among them are Chimi’s own mother and two sisters. Chimi herself has been a widow for 22 years and raised six children, four of whom were actually her late brother’s, who died in an accident.

This has led to the establishment of refugee camps in southern Bhutan and inevitable tensions with the native population

Chimi doesn’t shy away from discussing the sensitive issue of the Lhotshampa. For more than a century, Nepalis have fled the rigid Hindu caste system in their homeland, which has led to the establishment of refugee camps in southern Bhutan and inevitable tensions with the native population. Nepalis who arrived before 1958 have passports, but those who came after that year do not, and in theory, they are supposed to leave the country. In practice, however, this rarely happens.

The Tshangla language, spoken by the Sharchop people, is used by 28 % of the population – more than Dzongkha, the official language, which is spoken by 24 %. Yet, in education, English is the primary language of instruction.

Both education and healthcare are free in Bhutan. Chimi recalls that during her school years, everything was provided free of charge in boarding school, even toothbrushes and toothpaste. Nowadays, registration is still free, but students have to pay for their uniforms and textbooks. School attendance is not mandatory, but children can attend school from the age of five to seventeen.

The best students are allowed to go to university, where they pay 1 300 ngultrum per year, with food and accommodation included. However, they must buy their own books – and, as Chimi jokingly adds, their own iPads as well.

 

 

Healthcare in Bhutan is free, even for tourists – including any necessary surgeries. This system is funded in part by tourism revenue. As a tourist, you can only enter Bhutan if you pay a daily fee of 250 USD, regardless of whether you stay in luxury hotels or go on mountain treks. Of that amount, 70 % goes to the government, helping to finance public services such as education and healthcare.

Until 1960, there were no roads in the country

But it wasn't always like this. When Jigme Dorji Wangchuk ascended as the third king in 1952, Bhutan was an extremely isolated and closed-off country. In fact, until 1960, there were no roads in the country. At that time, what is now a 153 km journey in one day would have taken 10 days. Education was only available in monastic schools.

Jigme Dorji is considered the father of modern Bhutan, Chimi explains. He opened the country to the outside world and began modernising it. He built schools, abolished the caste system, and did away with a form of taxation where people were required to give rice or cattle to the government. Age-old obligations were eliminated, allowing farmers to own their land for free. Inter-caste marriages were encouraged, as were unions between partners from different regions.

Chimi insists that these profound reforms were met with little resistance from the upper classes, which surprises us, given the assassination of the prime minister in 1964 – an outspoken advocate of change.

Down in the densely forested Wang Chhu Valley lies the Chhukha hydropower plant, though you can’t see it, which is by design. Out of respect for nature, the tunnels and installations are fully integrated into the mountains. Completed in 1986, the plant is the oldest in Bhutan and, with its capacity of 336 MW it remains one of the six largest in the country. A district like Chhukha, with two hydropower plants and two universities, is considered wealthy.

Back to Jigme Dorji. He shaped his reforms through five-year plans. The first two were entirely dedicated to building roads, schools, and hospitals. The very first road ever constructed was the one we’re following today – from the border town of Phuntsholing to the capital, Thimphu.

But when the road was finally completed, he was immensely proud that he had contributed to it

Building that road was a Herculean task. There were no heavy machines available, only dynamite to break through the rocks. Everything else had to be done by hand. Every family was required to send one family member to work on the project, and they didn’t receive any wages for it. They even had to provide their own food. One of those forced volunteers was Chimi’s father. At the time, he would grumble, saying that the road would never be finished in his lifetime. But when the road was finally completed, he was immensely proud that he had contributed to it.

 

Phuntsholing Thimphu Highway – Scars of a landslide

Which doesn't change the fact that the Phuntsholing-Thimphu Highway still presents a challenge for both driver and traveller. Like a pockmarked ribbon, the road winds its way along densely forested mountain slopes through the valley of the Wang Chhu. In places where frequent landslides have taken their toll the worn-out tarmac has been replaced by a muddy, pothole-filled track. Around noon, we reach Tsimasham.

Along the road, we frequently notice large collections of tiny statues. These are tsatsas. After a cremation, part of the ashes of the deceased are sometimes mixed with clay, shaped into tiny stupas barely 5 cm tall, and baked. Ideally, one should make 108 of them, but Chimi assures us that 20, 30, or 40 is already quite good. The tsatsas are then left in a special place, such as in a crevice in a rock, in a cave, or on a mountain pass, allowing the spirit of the deceased to continue in harmony with nature.

 

Waterfall

Chhuzom – Wang Chhu

The fact that 108 is considered a lucky number is thanks to a king who, in the 7th century, managed to defeat a female demon by building 108 monasteries in one go. But that’s a story for later, Chimi adds. About fifteen minutes later, we settle down for lunch at the Bunagu Tourist Cafeteria in Bunakha.

Gradually, we enter the Chapcha region, which is famous throughout Bhutan for its potatoes. They plant them in December or January and harvest them in June or July, just before the rice planting season begins. Vegetables are also cultivated throughout the summer in this valley. Down in the valley, the Indian Border Roads Organisation is hard at work – a friendly gesture from their neighbour India. Once the new road is completed, the journey from Phuntsholing to Thimphu will be shortened by 35 kilometres.

The local population is known for its strong sense of solidarity. When someone builds a house, they receive both material and financial support from others. The people of Chapcha are doing well; they often own multiple houses in cities like Thimphu and Paro, Chimi explains. Until the 1980s, they were a fairly closed community, marrying only within their own group, which led to genetic issues. But nowadays, they are more open to mixing with others.

Traditionally, houses are built using stone, clay, and wood, without the use of nails or cement. Blueprints aren’t used either. The carpenter measures the land using arm lengths. The plot is marked at the four corners with stakes, and strings are stretched between them before the excavation begins. The lower part of the walls is made of natural stone, while the upper part consists of a mixture of clay and wood.

Building a house without first seeking permission from the nature spirits is, of course, asking for trouble

Building a house without first seeking permission from the nature spirits is, of course, asking for trouble. Therefore, a small ceremony is held when the door is installed, when the windows are put in, or when the roof is placed. A final consecration crowns all of this. Meanwhile, we pass Chapcha La, which at 2 545 meters is the highest point of the day.

Typically, three generations live together in one house. You won’t find furniture in a farmhouse – no chairs, no tables, no beds. Everything takes place on the ground, in one and the same room. However, there is an effort nowadays to give newly married couples some privacy.

The resident grandparents always hold the authority. Their word is law, and their orders are always followed – though not always immediately or wholeheartedly. Saying no to a grandparent is unthinkable.

Outward symbols of marital status – such as a wedding ring – do not exist. Surnames are also absent. Getting married is very straightforward. You fall in love, go through a phase of secret meetings, gradually come out about your relationship, and are considered husband and wife by the community.

Only since the mid-1990s has the government issued marriage certificates, primarily to legally formalise the situation of children. However, a formal marriage is still reserved for the king, although even the wealthy are starting to imitate this behaviour.

The confluence of a father river and a mother river is considered an inauspicious sign

Chhuzom – Confluence of the Paro Chhu and the Thimphu Chhu

Chhuzom is the place where the Paro Chhu and the Thimphu Chhu converge to form the Wang Chhu. For traditional Bhutanese people, this is a very special location. They view this confluence as the union of a father river and a mother river, which is considered an inauspicious sign. Therefore, small stupas or chortens have been erected across the river in various styles, representing Nepal, Ladakh, Tibet, and Bhutan. The road to Thimphu is marked by an impressive ceremonial gate.

 

Chhuzom – Gateway to Thimphu

Change is coming, as our chatty guide Chimi departs to continue her journey to Paro. Kuenzang, our new driver, boards the vehicle and takes over the wheel of the Toyota Cruiser. Still downcast, Namgyal finds a place in the back seat. A little further down the road, a certain Karma Tenzing joins us, neatly dressed in a striped gho. This shy young man will be our companion during our journey through Bhutan for the next seven days. Shortly after, we bid farewell to the unfortunate Namgyal.

 

Simtokha Dzong

As we gradually approach Thimphu, Simtokha Dzong rises on a hill above the plain, located about 5 km south of the capital and strategically positioned between the main roads heading south and east.

According to Karma, this is the oldest fortress-monastery in Bhutan and even in the entire Himalayas. This can be debated, but it is certainly the first building that combined a religious function with a civil one – a dzong in the true sense of the word. We may have lost our bearings terminologically, but Karma sets us back on the right path: a lakhang is a temple, a dzong is a fortress, a gompa is a place for meditation, and a chorten is a stupa.

 

Protective figures on the four corners

Before entering the dzong, Karma ties his kabney around himself. We had already learned this from Chimi, but Karma shows us exactly how it works. The wide scarf should be at least twice the length of the man wearing it and has fringes at both ends. The folding turns out to be quite a complex task, and we don’t see ourselves mastering it anytime soon. The only detail that sticks with us is the principle that the first three fringes must be folded separately, as this expresses respect for the country, the people, and the king.

 

Guide Karma wearing a kabney (ritual scarf) over his traditional gho

Simtokha Dzong – Entrance

It was the Shabdrung, the blue-bearded figure we met this morning, who commissioned the construction of this dzong in 1629. He is said to have meditated here as well. The father of Bhutan's first king also spent some time in this place. Today, more than 300 monks have made this dzong their permanent residence. The last restoration of the dzong took place in 2005.

 

Vestibule with images of the Four Heavenly Kings

The images in the vestibule feel familiar to us – the Wheel of Life, depicting the six realms into which a person can be reborn as long as they do not escape the cycle of reincarnation, and the Four Heavenly Kings, each guarding one of the four cardinal directions. The prayer hall immediately astounds us with its lush and colourful decorations hanging from the ceiling. Hundreds of Buddha figures are painted on the walls, and even more impressive are the beautiful, ancient murals.

 

Heavenly King North (yellow, with mongoose)

Wheel of Life, Heavenly King East (white, with lute)

At the front, Sakyamuni, the historical Buddha, stands at the centre. With his right hand, he touches the earth, taking it as a witness to the truth of his words. On either side of him are four towering bodhisattvas. In Buddhism, they play a role similar to that of saints in Catholicism – beings who can achieve enlightenment but instead strive to assist others on their path to enlightenment. The wall depicts the sixteen arhats, beings who are well on their way to enlightenment but still rank a level below the bodhisattvas.

Karma jokingly refers to these butter sculptures as ritual cookies

On the altar are various tormas made of flour, butter, and sugar. Karma jokingly refers to these butter sculptures as ritual cookies, representing a specific deity. One of them is nearly two meters tall, with the central part made of wax.

 

Simtokha Dzong

A side chapel is entirely dedicated to Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. He has eleven heads, which allows him to understand every distress. He has a thousand arms, which enable him to relieve that distress. We would love to catch a glimpse inside the gonkhang, the chapel of the protective deities Mahakala and Mahakali. After all, real tiger tails hang from the pillars there. However, this chapel is off-limits to us. But that doesn't stop us from counting the impressive, authentic dzong as one of the most beautiful we have seen so far.

Twice a year, the royal court moved between Thimphu and Punakha

As we descend from the outskirts of Thimphu to the city centre, Karma elaborates on the city, which has been the only capital of Bhutan since 1955. Before that, Thimphu was the summer capital, and the lower-lying Punakha was the winter capital. Twice a year, the royal court moved between Thimphu and Punakha. That must have been a massive undertaking, considering that roads were barely present. It was the third king, the great reformer Jigme Dorji, who put an end to that. The religious authorities, however, still adhere to this tradition to this day.

In the city, houses are built in fundamentally the same way as in the countryside, but traditional building materials – stone, clay, wood – are sometimes replaced with modern materials like aluminium or unsightly corrugated iron. This is the most densely populated area of Bhutan, with as many as 100 000 inhabitants. Like everywhere else in the world, Thimphu attracts many people from the countryside. Life here is considerably more comfortable, and due to the presence of shops and ministries, there are better job opportunities.

 

Thimphu Valley

From the slope of one of the hills, a giant Buddha statue gazes solemnly over the city. Unfazed, Kuenzang drives his bus through thousands of prayer flags on the way up. With each hairpin turn, the view of the city becomes increasingly impressive.

 

Buddha Dordenma statue

Including its pedestal, the gigantic statue stands 51 meters tall. It was cast in bronze in China and then cut into sections and transported here via Phuntsholing. The inside is hollow. It’s not even finished yet, as two more floors need to be built to house 125 000 small Buddha statues. In front of the statue, an expansive plaza stretches out. A biting, icy wind takes our breath away. We don’t stay long and decide to head back down fairly quickly.

 

National Memorial Chorten

In 1972, the third king began the construction of the National Memorial Chorten in the centre of the city. However, he passed away before the project was completed. As a tribute, his mother, Phuntsho Choden, finished the task. Just as a Buddha statue represents the body of the Buddha and books represent his teachings, a stupa represents his mind, Karma explains.

 

National Memorial Chorten – Pilgrims

It is a typical three-part Tibetan stupa, with a base representing the earth, a middle section symbolising water, and a bowl on top representing fire. The 13 copper rings above it signify the 13 steps to enlightenment. Unlike the usual design, the top is crowned not with a sun and moon, but with a small tower. The entrance gates face the four cardinal directions, and above each gate, one of the Four Heavenly Kings sits behind dusty glass in a niche, guarding his respective direction.

Catching up on the latest gossip while working on your karma – what more could one need?

Pilgrim with prayer drum

Pilgrim with prayer beads

Meanwhile, mostly elderly people steadily make their rounds around the chorten. Always clockwise, with the sanctuary on their right side – their pure side. They diligently spin their prayer wheels, occasionally chatting with a fellow devotee. You also find them in the pavilion with the large prayer drums or at the small pavilion with the beautiful statue of the god of offerings.

 

 

With some cynicism, Karma calls the place an outdoor day care centre for the elderly. These old folks are dropped off here in the morning by their children on their way to work and picked up again in the evening. Catching up on the latest gossip while working on your karma – what more could one need?

 

Thimphu – Main crossroads in the capital

It’s five thirty when we arrive at hotel Puntsho Pelri. The bad news is that the pounding from the neighbouring disco will keep you awake well into the night. The good news is that the noisy disco is closed on Sundays. But, Karma reassures us with a wide grin, the dogs will be barking all night long.

 

Thimphu – Bell Tower

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Monday, April 14 | Thimpu

The dogs turn out to be not much of a problem after all. The morning feels quite cool, despite the sunny and partly cloudy skies. Soon, we will head eastward in search of Bumthang, the fertile valley in the heart of Bhutan, which forms the historical heartland of the nation.

 

Thimphu – Changangkha Lakhang

But first, we explore the capital a bit more. We begin with Changangkha Lakhang, the temple that looks down over the city like a small fortress from a hilltop. This is the oldest temple in Thimphu, founded in the 12th century. Karma explains that Buddhism only began to play a significant role in Bhutan from the 8th century, particularly after Guru Rinpoche, the Precious Master, visited Bumthang in 746. All by himself, he gave a considerable boost to the introduction of Buddhism in Bhutan. Before that, Bön, a nature religion centred on the worship of mountains, rivers, and trees, predominated here.

 

Changangkha Lakhang – Prayer Drums

Today, most Bhutanese belong to the Yellow Hats, or the Gelug school of the Drukpa Kagyu. The Nyingma or Red Hats form a minority that primarily resides in the eastern part of the country. It was a certain Phajo Drugom Zhigpo who introduced the teachings of the Drukpa Kagyu in the 12th century. He came to Bhutan from Tibet to marry a local woman. He accomplished this with great success, resulting in seven sons.

So, he had no choice but to throw his seven sons from a bridge into the Wang Chhu

While seven may be considered a lucky number, when it comes to children, it can be seen as an ill omen. For Phajo, the conclusion was clear – among his seven sons, some demons had taken refuge. So, he had no choice but to throw his seven sons from a bridge into the Wang Chhu. This proved to be completely justified, as only four sons managed to save themselves from the water. The other three must have been demons, for they drowned. It was the youngest of those surviving sons who would later go on to build the Changangkha Lakhang.

 

Mantra of Kalachakra

An older couple makes their way down to the temple. The man carries a photogenic baby in his arms. Many parents come to this temple to beg for blessings for their child, according to Karma. It’s a bizarre custom, considering the background of the father of the temple’s founder.

Large round copper plates on the exterior walls display the powerful mantra of Kalachakra. We shuffle on tiptoe across the cold stone floor as we enter the temple. A monk continuously murmurs his mantras. Believers entering the temple prostrate themselves before the images in the prayer hall. Three times, they lie flat on the floor, standing up in between with their hands folded above their heads, at their throats, and at their chests, respectively. This indicates their intention for their body, speech, and mind to be like that of the Buddha.

Whether there is also a goat with a calf’s head remains unclear

At the centre stands Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion, with Manjushri, the bodhisattva of wisdom, to his right. To the left is Gaynying Dontsang, the powerful local goddess who protects children. The statues date back to the 11th century. Typically made of clay, the central figure here is exceptionally made of metal. On the altar are three beautiful yellow-white tormas, about a meter high.

Next, Kuenzang brings us further up the mountains in search of the Motithang Takin Preserve. This is a small zoo where we will encounter the mysterious takin, the national animal of Bhutan.

According to legend, in the 15th century, a certain Drukpa Kunley – wildly popular in Bhutan as the divine madman – once asked for a goat and a calf to be brought to him. He slaughtered both animals, cooked them, and ate them. Sated, he took the remaining bones, assembled the two animals again, and brought them back to life. However, he must have been somewhat careless in his work, as the calf turned out to have a goat's head. Thus, the takin was born. Whether there is also a goat with a calf’s head remains unclear.

 

Motithang Takin Preserve – Takin

Behind the high fence, the takins live up to their dubious reputation. They are incredibly ugly, with their short, stocky legs, the curled salt-and-pepper coat around their front legs, and their heavy heads that seem directly attached to their bodies without a neck. In the Himalayas, you will generally find takins at altitudes between 2 500 m and 3 500 m. Males can weigh up to 350 kg, with a shoulder height of up to 130 cm.

 

Thimphu – Tashicho Dzong with utse (tower building)

We descend back into the city, enjoying the magnificent view of Tashicho Dzong, the impressive dzong of Thimphu. Rising centrally above the fortress is the utse, the massive tower structure. To its right, Karma points out the administrative buildings, while to the left are the religious ones. The annual tshechu is performed in the courtyard there.

This is, in fact, the most important building in Bhutan, as both the king and the Je Khenpo, the religious leader of Bhutan, have their offices here. Whenever a new king ascends to the throne, he is first crowned in the dzong of the old capital, Punakha, and the next day, a second time in the dzong of the new capital, Thimphu.

Behind the dzong, on the opposite bank of the Thimphu Chhu, lies the parliamentary building. To its right, on this side of the river, a smaller, dark wooden structure with a golden tower partially hides among the trees – it is the royal palace.

 

 

At the city's main intersection, where Nordzin Lam crosses Hogdzin Lam, a police officer is directing traffic. Nothing unusual, yet there is something about it. The refined ballet he performs with his crisp white wool gloves is something we can't quite grasp. However, every driver seems to know exactly what to do. There is not the slightest hesitation or incident.

In the 1990s, the government had the audacity to replace this police officer with traffic lights

In the 1990s, the government had the audacity to replace this police officer with traffic lights, aiming to modernise the capital a bit. That turned out to be a monumental blunder, leading to numerous traffic accidents. No one paid any attention to the traffic lights. There was nothing for it but to restore the old system. Since then, it has once again been a flesh-and-blood police officer who flawlessly directs the traffic. Thimphu must be one of the only capitals in the world without a single traffic light.

 

Thimphu doesn't like traffic lights

With that, our exploration of the capital comes to a temporary close. Over the next two days, we will travel to Bumthang, the historical heartland of this nation.

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Jaak Palmans
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