Far too good for ordinary people
India | Anno 2014
Sunday, April 6 | Delhi – Darjeeling
Sunday, April 6 | Delhi – Darjeeling
By eight in the morning, the sun over Delhi is already gearing up for another scorching day. The few clouds in the sky won't do much to hinder it, but a bright blue sky is not in the cards either, as the smog of this bustling megacity will keep things hazy.
Today, our destination is West Bengal, the populous state just south of Sikkim. Specifically, we're headed to Bagdogra, the main airport in the narrow Siliguri corridor, where India squeezes between Nepal and Bangladesh. From Bagdogra, we will head north by jeep, straight towards Darjeeling and Sikkim.
The flight takes just over an hour and a half before rice fields and vegetable patches signal our arrival in the fertile lands of West Bengal. The midday sun greets us in sunny, warm Bagdogra, where the temperature reads 32°C (90 °F). The time difference with Belgium remains 3½ hours. At the airport restaurant, we are served familiar Cantonese dishes – chicken soup, babi panggang, bami, and nasi – bridging the gap between European and Indian cuisine a little.
In the parking lot, our guide for the next seven days is already waiting. His name is Kabir. With tanned skin, hair slicked back and tied in a bun, and silver earrings in both ears, it’s clear he’s of Nepalese origin. He isn’t overly talkative yet, but with a bit of encouragement, that will change. Kabir has four drivers with him, three Tibetans and one Hindu. Outside, four Innovas are waiting – not jeeps, but comfortable Toyota MPVs.
Assam tea or lowland tea
Resolutely, we set course towards the mountains. Our chauffeur Sanghi quickly emerges as an agile driver, without being caught in any reckless outbursts. He is in his early twenties and of Tibetan origin. Naturally, he cherishes a photo of the Dalai Lama on his dashboard.
National Highway 110
The tea plantations don’t take long to appear. Seas of green ripple across the hills. The bushes are neatly pruned at picking height. This is Assam tea, a lowland tea. Inferior quality, Kabir remarks. For the better stuff, you need to be about 600 meters higher.
Trucks that supply Darjeeling have to do so at night. During the day, they would seriously disrupt traffic on this narrow road
Where the foothills of the Himalayas, begin to show themselves, the Rohini toll plaza awaits us. Last year, National Highway 110 was re-paved. To cover the costs, the government taxes passing traffic.
It must be said, the black ribbon of asphalt climbing into the misty mountains is of excellent quality. Sanghi smoothly manoeuvers his Innova around unpredictable bends, steadily ascending the steep slope. There are no buses or trucks in sight. Often, the asphalt is no wider than a single lane. Trucks that supply Darjeeling have to do so at night. During the day, they would seriously disrupt traffic on this narrow road.
In a hairpin bend, Kabir grants us and the drivers a brief stop. We are at an altitude of about 1 300 meters, enjoying the landscape at our feet – the hills, the tea fields, and the winding, meandering ribbon of asphalt.
Kurseong
Just before three, we reach Kurseong, an elongated village at an altitude of 1,458 meters. Houses rise above one another on the steep slopes. The town buzzes with a lively Sunday atmosphere, as locals and tourists stroll past the shops, the street belonging to everyone.
Kurseong |
|
Darjeeling Himalayan Railway |
In the meantime, the narrow-gauge track of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway has joined us, winding its way up the road, sometimes on the left, sometimes on the right. This DHR is more than just a curiosity – it has been part of the World Heritage list since 1999. Between 1879 and 1881 the British managed to overcome an altitude difference of 2 000 m over a distance of 86 km. The journey from Siliguri to Darjeeling takes six and a half hours.
It almost looks like a toy train, as everything appears smaller on the narrow-gauge track
These days, it’s mostly tourists who sign up for this trip. Real steam locomotives are used to make the experience as authentic as possible. Puffing along, a train approaches us in Ghoom. It almost looks like a toy train, as everything appears smaller on the narrow-gauge track.
At one time, Ghoom even boasted the highest train station in the world. But the Chinese claimed that title in 2006 when they opened a brand-new high-speed train station in Lhasa, the capital of Tibet.
By now, the smooth asphalt ribbon is no more. The quality of the road surface presents itself in various degrees of bad. To make matters worse, it starts to rain.
Darjeeling
Darjeeling announces itself as a chaotic pandemonium that has been slung over the steep slopes like a giant pancake. Around 100 000 people live here at an average altitude of 2 134 meters. Everywhere you look, houses seem stacked on top of one another like the steps of a giant staircase, sometimes reaching dizzying heights. Though Indians live here, the city feels thoroughly British. Even the name Darjeeling is a British corruption of Dorje Ling, meaning Place of Thunder.
In the outskirts, one of the toy trains is ready to depart. We hurry to be there as it starts off, engulfed in clouds of white and pitch-black smoke.
Darjeeling – The New Elgin |
|
Lhasa apso |
It’s still lightly raining as we drive into the grounds of The New Elgin. The two snow-white Lhasa Apsos in the garden are unfazed by our commotion. These Tibetan-origin dogs seem to be a trademark of the hotel chain.
The Maharaja indulged himself by making this little retreat his summer residence
In 1887, the Maharaja of Cooch Behar indulged himself by making this little retreat his summer residence. It wasn’t until 1930 that it became a hotel. With its wooden floors and staircases, antique furniture, luxurious armchairs, chess tables, reading room, and black-and-white photographs from a distant past, we instantly feel like 19th-century colonials. In the background, The Beatles gently serenade us with Do You Want to Know a Secret? – it couldn’t get more British.
Tomorrow, the forecast promises good weather. And it’s just as well, because Kabir will wake us at the crack of dawn to witness a breathtaking spectacle – the 8 586-meter-high Kanchenjunga, bathed in the pink glow of the first rays of morning sun. It’s the third-highest mountain in the world, after Mount Everest and K2. Until 1852, it was even believed to be the highest.
The thought of this spectacle gives us a warm feeling. Or is it the hot water bottle in our bed?
Monday, April 7 | Darjeeling
Incredibly early – at a quarter to four – we’re ready in our jeeps. In the dead of night, we immediately hit a traffic jam, as every jeep in Darjeeling seems to be heading in the same direction. A drizzly rain falls, not a good sign for visibility later.
We drive southward again, passing through Darjeeling and Ghoom. A barrier across the road signals Kabir to buy tickets. From here, we ascend via an unpaved road until we arrive at a peculiar building and a telecommunications tower bristling with an impressive array of satellite dishes. This is Tiger Hill, 11 km from Darjeeling. At 2 590 meters, it’s the highest peak in the area. And the coldest, if you ask us.
Tiger Hill |
|
|
Just before half past four, we all huddle under a shelter, shivering as we stare into the darkness. Soon, the sun will rise in the east, Kabir explains, pointing to the right. Then we’ll see Lhotse, Makalu, Mount Everest, and Kanchenjunga directly in front of us to the north. Four of the five highest mountains in the world – only K2 is missing.
But all we see for now is mist. Mist that is occasionally eerily illuminated by the headlights of an endless stream of jeeps. For a brief moment, the clouds part slightly, and we catch a glimpse of a hill silhouette. A few women tirelessly promote their wares – Coffee! Coffee! Coffee! Coffee! In the tea capital, you need some nerve for that.
In the tea capital, you need some nerve for that
Steadily, headlights continue to appear in the mist below. Soon, this will be the largest concentration of jeeps on the Indian subcontinent. It seems almost unimaginable that all these vehicles will find a place on this hill. Perhaps that’s why we had to wake up so early – to beat the crowd.
Missing from the scene, however, is Kanchenjunga. The sun is also absent. But it is getting lighter. As dawn breaks, it gradually becomes clear that Tiger Hill is enveloped in white fog, which shows no sign of lifting.
Daily traffic jam on Tiger Hill
At a quarter to six, Kabir sounds the retreat. Sanghi starts the engine and then shuts it off again just a few dozen meters down the road. The chaos on the hill is even greater than we could have anticipated. Bumper to bumper, hundreds of jeeps are desperately trying to make their way down. Thousands of prayer flags flutter low over the stationary vehicles, giving the mess a festive atmosphere. Two jeeps stubbornly try to go uphill against the flow, completely paralyzing the entire hill. It takes little imagination to suspect that scenes like this unfold here every morning.
Ghoom – Yiga Choling
Half an hour later, we finally manage to reach the nearby Yiga Choling Monastery in Ghoom. It dates back to 1850 and is dedicated to Maitreya, the future Buddha who will take over the sceptre from the current Buddha in about 1 500 years.
The quiet young man quickly transforms into a talkative guide with a unique interpretation of Buddhism
At once, Kabir seizes the moment for our first introduction to Buddhism. The quiet young man quickly transforms into a talkative guide with a unique interpretation, taking us on a virtual journey to southern Nepal, to Lumbini in the sixth century BCE. It was there that a certain Siddhartha Gautama was born, an event accompanied by quite a few special effects – he emerged from his mother’s armpit, and immediately after his birth, he took seven steps, from which seven lotus flowers sprang forth.
Despite his affluent background, the royal boy kept a cool head and lived very simply. At sixteen, he married and had a son named Rahula.
But one day, when he went to meditate, he caused such vibrations in the universe that the attention of the Hindu gods Brahma and Vishnu was drawn to him. Together, they transformed into two deer to investigate. This is why two deer often adorn the gates of Buddhist monasteries – a reference to the two guardian deities of the Buddha, according to Kabir. This is a different perspective than the classic interpretation, which holds that the deer refer to the deer park where the Buddha delivered his first sermon.
Siddhartha was twenty-nine when he began to converse with nature, Kabir continues with his original narrative. There, he encountered a poor person, a sick person, an old person, and a dead person. Why must humans suffer so? was his obvious lament. He went through his meditation in seven stages and ultimately achieved enlightenment under a bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya, India.
From then on, Siddhartha Gautama would be known as the Buddha, the Enlightened One. His teachings were a reaction against Brahmanism, where strict adherence to rituals had become the main concern. Buddhism teaches us that we must free ourselves from the cycle of rebirth to avoid suffering forever.
Initially, the teachings spread rather slowly. With Guru Rinpoche, the Precious Master, things began to change from the eighth century onward. This holy man was said to have been born from a lotus flower – hence his name Padmasambhava, the Lotus-Born. All by himself, he significantly boosted the introduction of Buddhism in both Tibet and Bhutan.
At first glance, Buddhism may seem quite simple, but what the Tibetans have made of it is anything but
At first glance, Buddhism may seem quite simple, but what the Tibetans have made of it is anything but. Their variant, Vajrayana, also known as Lamaism, is essentially a mix of basic Buddhism and Tantrism, according to Kabir. Moreover, over time, they have split into four major schools, which, of course, have fundamental differences in opinion over trivial nuances.
The most well-known in the West are the Gelug, or Yellow Hats. Their fame is attributed to the charisma of their spiritual leader, the Dalai Lama. He is the 14th in a long line of reincarnations of Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion. Bodhisattvas are a kind of saints in Buddhism – beings who can attain enlightenment but instead strive to help others on the path to enlightenment.
The second in the hierarchy of the Gelug, the Panchen Lama, is also not entirely unknown in the West. However, the problem is that no one knows where he is. When the Dalai Lama announced on May 14, 1995, that the very young Gedhun Choekyi Nyima had been recognised as the 11th reincarnation of Amitabha, alarm bells went off in Beijing. The police were dispatched to apprehend the newly appointed Panchen Lama and his parents. Since then, no one has heard anything from them.
Since then, no one has heard anything from them
Then there are the Kagyu, a second Buddhist school. Much less is known in the West about their spiritual leader, the Karmapa, who is the reincarnation of Guru Rinpoche. Furthermore, as Kabir points out, this refers to the Karma Kagyu. This should not be confused with the Drukpa Kagyu, who hold sway in Bhutan. The Karma Kagyu and the Drukpa Kagyu thoroughly agree that they disagree with each other. And we agree that we understand less and less about it.
Back to the Karmapa. The 16th Karmapa passed away in 1981. Long live the 17th, one might say. But then a snag appeared. A certain Trinley Thaye Dorje claimed to be the new incarnation of Guru Rinpoche and thus the new Karmapa. However, another individual, Ogyen Trinley Dorje, modestly put himself forward as well.
Wise monks pondered the problem. Their insights led to the conclusion that one candidate incarnated the body of the Karmapa and the other his spirit. And the Chinese wouldn’t be the Chinese if they didn’t have a third incarnation ready – the voice of the Karmapa.
In July 1992, the Dalai Lama was asked for his opinion. For him, there was no doubt – Ogyen Trinley Dorje was his favourite. In 2000, he managed to escape to Tibet and joined the Dalai Lama in Dharamsala.
Who knows, the Karmapa might inherit the moral authority of the Dalai Lama over the Buddhist world after his death
Meanwhile, the Dalai Lama has announced that he no longer wishes to be reincarnated, according to Kabir. So, you don’t need to look for a successor for him. This only heightens the controversy surrounding the Karmapa. Because who knows, the Karmapa might inherit the moral authority of the Dalai Lama over the Buddhist world after his death, and even a Karmapa is not insensitive to that.
Yiga Choling – Prayer drums |
|
|
Enough talking; we want to see a monastery from the inside as well. Together with us, a woman enters the prayer hall. Immediately, she begins to prostrate – throwing herself flat on the floor three times, standing up in between each prostration with her hands folded above her head, at her throat, and at her chest. By doing this, she signifies that her body, speech, and mind should become like those of the Buddha.
Triple prostration upon entering the prayer hall
The prayer hall looks quite simple. As a first introduction to the Buddhist pantheon, this is still manageable – tantrism for dummies, so to speak. At the centre stands a life-size statue of Maitreya, as the monastery is dedicated to him. His predecessors, the Buddhas of the present and past, accompany him.
Maitreya |
|
|
On either side, the sacred texts of the Tibetan canon are kept in yellow cabinets behind glass. On the left is the Kangyur, the words of the Buddha himself. On the right is the Tengyur, which contains commentaries by wise men on the Kangyur.
Avalokiteshvara and Manjushri are also present. Avalokiteshvara is the bodhisattva of compassion, while Manjushri represents wisdom. So to speak you could say bodhisattvas are to Buddhism what saints are to Catholicism.
Ghanta (ritual bell) and vajra (ritual sceptre) |
|
Portrait of the Dalai Lama |
Prominently displayed is a large photo of a mischievously smiling Dalai Lama seated on a chair. His presence is symbolic, yet no less appreciated. And of course, Padmasambhava, the first great converter, must not be absent either.
This is not about sexual enjoyment or even procreation
Terrifying god in mystical union (yab-yum) with his shakti (feminine power)
An eye-catching figure in garish colours above the door captures our attention. A fierce god is depicted in an intimate embrace with his shakti, his female power. This is a yab-yum, resembling an explosion of sexual pleasure – Western brothels eagerly adopted the name. However, the absent gaze of the partners leaves no doubt. This is not about sexual enjoyment or even procreation. Instead, it represents the energy released during the mystical union of opposites – the masculine compassion and the feminine wisdom. Both are essential for enlightenment.
Darjeeling Himalayan Railway
It's half past seven in the morning as we return to the hotel. Often moving step by step, because in a town clinging to a mountainside, urban planning is a joke. Children in uniforms slowly hurry to their school. Trucks descend to the plain to pick up a new load. At the station, commuters board one of the steam trains.
Darjeeling – Station
With half a workday behind us, we’ve earned our breakfast. From the hotel, we look down on the playground of Saint Robert's, a Catholic school where Kabir spent some time – though you can't really call him a Catholic. Students aged 10 to 18 attend this well-respected institution, with more than a thousand pupils enrolled. Pedagogical comfort here means classes have a minimum of 35 students and a maximum of 50. Just after nine, those thousand voices unite in songs that can be heard far beyond the school grounds. This is a daily ritual at the start of lessons.
Vegetable market |
|
School children |
An extremely bumpy road takes us to the Tibetan Refugee Self Help Centre. This centre was established during the Tibetan diaspora in 1959, when the Chinese destroyed around 5 000 monasteries in Tibet and imprisoned their leaders, as Kabir explains. Five refugees settled here because the location held special significance for them; during his exile from 1910 to 1912, the 13th Dalai Lama had also stayed here.
Tibetan Refugee Self Help Centre – Spinning wool thread |
|
Knotting a carpet |
Currently, over 400 Tibetans have made this place their permanent home. They take pride in being self-sufficient, although that is not always easy. Some women are working with wool in a traditional manner. Using a carder, they unravel the fibres of the wool, which they then spin into thread. Colourful balls of wool are stacked in the Woollen Yarn Stock. A poster reminds visitors of the fate of the 11th Panchen Lama. Notable figures such as Indira Gandhi, Jawaharlal Nehru, and former Queen Anne-Marie of Greece have also paid a visit to this place, as evidenced by a few photographs.
Tibetan Refugee Self Help Center – Woollen Yarn Stock |
|
Carpenter |
Although the sun sometimes breaks through the clouds, the valley remains shrouded in mist. A steep climb on foot brings us to the entrance of the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Centre. This is the highest zoo in India, located 2,300 meters above sea level. It specialises in high-altitude fauna, with special breeding programs for the red panda, the snow leopard, and the Himalayan wolf.
School children |
|
Padmaia Naidu Himalayan Zoological Centre – Asian black bear |
We are immediately greeted by an Asian black bear, with the typical V-shaped white mark on its chest. But it is the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute that Kabir draws our attention to. It is well-known that New Zealander Edmund Hillary and his Sherpa Tenzing Norgay were the first to reach the summit of Mount Everest in 1953. Less known is the fact that the British climber George Mallory made an attempt to be the first to climb the mountain as early as 1924. Whether he reached the summit will forever remain a mystery, as he and his companion did not survive the expedition. It wasn’t until 1999 that his body was found on the North Face.
Whether he reached the summit will forever remain a mystery, as he and his companion did not survive the expedition
After their achievement, Sherpa Tenzing settled in Darjeeling, where he founded the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in 1954. He was cremated there in 1986. His black cenotaph and statue have a prominent place in front of the museum entrance.
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute – Statue and cenotaph of Tenzing Norgay
A gigantic relief model of the Himalayas and the Tibetan plateau dominates the ground floor of the museum. Climbing gear is on display, we get acquainted with the culture of the mountain peoples, and a few taxidermied animals pass by.
The floor is entirely dedicated to the arduous conquest of Everest. Mallory's fateful expedition is covered in detail, as is the discovery of his body, including the macabre photo that the Australian Herald Sun on Sunday felt compelled to showcase on its front page on May 9, 1999. The trousers that Mallory wore during his expedition were noted by the finder to be surprisingly thinner than the trousers one would wear on a typical winter day in England.
Mallory’s trousers were noted by the finder to be surprisingly thinner than the trousers one would wear on a typical winter day in England
However, any reference to Edmund Hillary is hard to find here. All the attention is focused on Tenzing Norgay. Who among them reached the summit first on May 29, 1953, remains a topic of speculation.
Clouds keep the valley misty as we descend through the zoo and get acquainted with its inhabitants. Like the large sambar deer, which is calmly staring at the visitors. Or the Indian muntjac, which is said to be the oldest species of deer in the world. Its nickname, barking deer, comes from the sound it makes when it is alarmed.
Indian muntjac |
|
Leopard |
The leopards are well represented. A leopard kills just about anything it can catch, as we read – cattle, deer, monkeys, rodents, porcupines... The black panther is a classic example of melanism, where the predominant black pigment suppresses the normal colours of the coat – the opposite of albinism. The clouded leopard is distinguished by its large, irregularly shaped grey spots on its fur. It is the most agile climber among all felines.
Black panther |
|
Snow leopard |
But it is the beautiful snow leopard that steals the show. Treeless mountain slopes above 3 000 m are its favourite hunting grounds. Its grey, black-spotted coat provides perfect camouflage there. Few are lucky enough to catch more than a glimpse of it in the wild. Nevertheless, the species is threatened – its beautiful fur is highly sought after. It is estimated that only about 2 500 individuals survive in the wild.
Few are lucky enough to catch more than a glimpse of it in the wild
Bengal tiger
A few Himalayan wolves are peacefully sleeping. A Bengal tiger is also lying on its back in the grass. There are slightly more than 2 000 individuals surviving in the wild, making it an endangered species. Nevertheless, this is still the most numerous subspecies of tigers.
Red panda |
|
Jungle cat |
Bamboo is the favourite food of the red panda, a trait it shares with its more famous larger brother, the giant panda. You will mainly find it in temperate mountain forests between 1 800 and 4 000 meters. The jungle cat, on the other hand, dares to venture near humans. This large cat preys on rodents, hares, birds, and reptiles, but it also ventures into the water to catch fish.
Meanwhile, Darjeeling is buzzing with an election meeting. Voting will take place here on April 17. In the largest democracy in the world, elections occur in staggered phases. Specifically, the elections are spread over nine phases within a month. The streets are even busier than usual. Excited voices of politicians echo through the loudspeakers. It takes us over half an hour to cover the three kilometres to the hotel.
In the afternoon, Kabir sets out with us on foot. Very close to the hotel are the large concert hall and the Anglican St. Andrew's Church, built in 1843. But our destination is Observatory Hill, which holds special significance for both Buddhists and Hindus. Buddhists remember that the Dorje Ling monastery once stood here, from which Darjeeling derives its name. Hindus, on the other hand, revere their supreme god Shiva in the Mahakala cave temple.
Observatory Hill – Stairs with lungtas (prayer flags)
Thousands, if not tens of thousands, of colourful flags flutter above our heads as we climb the stairs. These are lungtas, prayer flags printed with several mantras and the image of a strong horse. Each prayer flag is made in one of five colours, which are always repeated in the same order: blue, white, red, green, and yellow. They symbolise the elements of nature, representing the sky, air, fire, water, and earth, respectively. With every movement of the prayer flag, prayers rise to the gods. This means prosperity for the person who hung the flags, as well as for their family, friends, acquaintances, and even their enemies.
However, they have found a way to cool her down in advance: around her neck hangs a garland of lemons
A small temple is dedicated to the Hindu goddess Kali. She is a fierce goddess, not to be trifled with. However, they have found a way to cool her down in advance: around her neck hangs a garland of lemons.
Mahakala Mandir |
|
|
In Mahakala Mandir, the temple in the cave, Buddhism and Hinduism coexist peacefully. Statues of the Buddha and Guru Rinpoche stand side by side with lingams representing the Hindu god Shiva and a statue of his mount, Nandi.
Chowrasta |
|
Golden Tips Teas – Seven Superior Tea Varieties |
We descend to Chowrasta, the Mall of Darjeeling, the beating heart of the city. Kabir promptly leads us into the Golden Tips Teas teahouse. Visiting Darjeeling without getting acquainted with its superior tea varieties would be sacrilege.
The quality of tea, we learn, depends on the timing of the harvest. The first flush occurs between March and May, the second between June and August, and the third between September and November – first flush, second flush, autumnal flush. It is the first flush that produces the best tea.
Not all tea leaves are created equal, of course. Quality labels help sort things out. For exclusive black tea, the quality ranges from Orange Pekoe (OP) to Super Fine Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe (SFTGFOP). Some wags jokingly refer to FTGFOP as Far Too Good for Ordinary People.
The white tea, a premium product of the house, brings about a true anticlimax
Enough theory; it’s time for practice. The tasting can begin. We find a black tea from the first flush somewhat underwhelming. Two varieties from the second flush are better received; they have a bit more flavour and are slightly sweeter. The third flush tea, however, proves to be bitter, while the green tea and oolong are quite enjoyable. The white tea, a premium product of the house, brings about a true anticlimax – we hardly experience any flavour, yet it costs 25 euros for 100 grams.
The Mall
As semi-expert tea enthusiasts, we stroll further along The Mall and arrive at the money exchanger that Kabir had mentioned. Swift-fingered and without any paperwork, the transactions are completed – 78 rupees for one euro.
Tuesday, April 8 | Darjeeling
Down in the valley, low clouds stubbornly linger, but higher up, The New Elgin is already basking in sunlight. Leaving the tea capital without having seen a tea plantation up close is absurd – even for tea novices like us. So, we obediently descend along the slopes to the Puttabong Tukvar Tea Estate, just north of Darjeeling.
Lebong Cart Road between tea plantations
Endlessly, the winding, bumpy Lebong Cart Road descends until we suddenly find ourselves in the midst of sunlit tea plantations, with a misty landscape in the background. On the steep slopes, tea pickers are diligently at work. This must be the first flush; at least, that’s what we’ve understood. They carefully pluck the ripe leaves from the bushes, ensuring not to disturb the delicate buds, which is the key. On their backs hangs a woven basket from a strap that is stretched across their foreheads
Tea pickers at work
A little later, we enter the domain of Jay Shree Tea & Industries. They proudly showcase their slogan – None before us (1852). For no one had done it before them; they were the very first to cultivate tea here. This venture has proven quite profitable for them – today, the estate spans 474 hectares (1 170 acres) and yields an impressive 245 tons annually.
Tea picker
Darjeeling was once part of the northern kingdom of Sikkim, which owed its prosperity to its location on the Silk Road, Kabir explains. At that time, Calcutta was the capital of British India, but the oppressive summer heat there was unbearable for the British. Naturally, they looked northward for cooler climates. As early as 1828, the area around Darjeeling was first explored. The location proved ideal not only as a summer retreat and sanatorium but also for cultivating tea, given its favourable conditions.
There was, of course, a price to be paid
When the Nepalese cast a covetous eye on the prosperous Sikkim, it was a godsend for the British. The king of Sikkim sought their help, and while the British managed to fend off the Nepalese, there was, of course, a price to be paid. Sikkim had to cede Darjeeling, which became part of the British Empire in 1835.
Acres of forest had to be cleared, but by 1848, the experiments with tea cultivation began. Three to four years later, the results were undeniable – the warmth, altitude, and humidity were perfect for growing tea. Over time, the name Darjeeling would become synonymous with tea.
Transporting all that tea required reliable infrastructure. In 1879, construction of the famous Darjeeling Himalayan Railway began. A large workforce was needed, and labourers were recruited from far and wide – Nepalese, Bhutanese, Lepchas from Sikkim. Thus, Darjeeling's melting pot of peoples was formed. Kabir's ancestors were among those who migrated from Nepal to Darjeeling during that time.
Thus, Darjeeling's melting pot of peoples was formed
Today, about 60 % of the local population in Darjeeling relies on tea for their livelihood. Besides tea, tourism and education also generate substantial employment. The latter is a legacy of the colonial period, as many schools date back to that time and are still highly regarded. Even students from abroad attend these schools as boarders.
But for us, it's all about the tea, and Kabir knows everything about it. Or at least, nearly everything. He explains that only women pick the tea because they exhibit more patience and precision than men – a statement met with mixed reactions. The workday for tea pickers begins at eight o’clock. Once they’ve harvested 6 to 7 kg of tea leaves, their day is done. For this, they earn 90 rupees – a little over one euro – plus a kilogram of rice and 2,3 kg of atta (flour). Usually, they finish just before lunch, after which they can voluntarily continue picking for themselves. If they're ill, they receive 60 rupees a day.
The green leaves are first spread out on a framework for the withering or semi-drying process. Hot air is blown over them, reducing their moisture content by 50 %, a process that lasts nine hours. Afterward, cold air is blown for another eight hours.
The next step is rolling. The semi-withered leaves, 50 to 60 kg at a time, go into a machine that gently rolls them for fifty minutes, ensuring they’re neatly rolled without breaking. This step is carried out at night when electricity is cheaper. For delicate white tea, the rolling is done by hand rather than by machine.
The third phase is fermentation. The leaves are spread out on tables while fans blow warm air over them. Over three and a half hours, their colour gradually shifts from green to brown. For green tea, this fermentation step is skipped.
At the end of this process, 24 to 24,5 kg of dry tea leaves are produced from every 100 kg of fresh leaves brought in. These are then packed in bags weighing 28 to 30 kg and sent to the auction in Calcutta. For export, the tea is packed in wooden crates.
And with that, it's time for us to bid Darjeeling a final farewell. Our small convoy heads north, towards Sikkim.
Jaak Palmans
© 2024 | Version 2024-10-12 14:00
Continue reading in (2/5)
