Divided legacy

Taiwan | Anno 2013

 

Tuesday 9 April | Taipei – Shida

Wednesday 10 April | Gold Ecological Park – Jinguashi – Jiufen

Thursday 11 April | Taipei – Chiang Kai-shek Memorial – National Palace Museum

Friday 12 April | Sanxia – Yingge – Taipei Dihua Street – Taoyuan

 

 

Tuesday 9 April | Taipei – Shida

It’s still raining when we arrive in Shida just after eight, one of the popular night markets in Taipei. The narrow streets aren’t particularly crowded. With umbrellas in hand, groups of young people wander between shops and food stalls adorned with flashy neon signs. For tonight, our tour guide Charles has planned an introduction to street food. These stalls aren’t just any ordinary ones, Charles proudly explains. Many have even been featured on TV, which is a guarantee of quality, he adds. That goes without saying.

 

Taipei – Shida night market

We look forward to it, but at the same time, we remain cautious. When it comes to food, there’s no stopping Charles. It wouldn't be the first time he orders enough food for a whole volleyball team, even though it’s just the two of us.

 

 

We still need to learn that trying to rein Charles in is pointless. Before we know it, he has already placed his order at one of the stalls. He calls it a crepe – tuna, vegetables, and soy cooked up on a pancake. Then the pancake is folded into a shape like a fry bag and eaten by hand. It’s tasty, for sure, but also quite hefty. Plus, it requires some coordination to eat both the filling and the wrapper of the crepe without spilling anything while also holding an umbrella.

 

 

In the meantime, a young economics student has noticed us. Apparently he sees his chance to practice his English a bit. But his knowledge of Shakespeare's language leaves much to be desired, as soon becomes apparent. He’s not very assertive either; every question he asks is interrupted by nervous giggles, and his girlfriend keeps encouraging him – Come on, you can do it, we imagine her saying. The mess he makes of his English is only surpassed by the mess we make of our crepe.

Tienbula is actually a Taiwanese corruption of tempura, but it has little to do with the Japanese original

Barely have we finished the crepe when Charles decrees that we can't miss out on trying a tienbula tonight. Before we can say no, a hefty portion arrives at our table. Charles explains that tienbula is a Taiwanese corruption of the Japanese tempura, where ingredients are dipped in panko and fried briefly. However, what we are served bears little resemblance to the original Japanese dish. The thick sauce that the Taiwanese pour over it smothers the crispy coating in a flavourless mush. Once again, the portion is enormous, but don’t worry – we get a doggy bag to take with us, allowing us to enjoy it later. We decide to discreetly throw it in the trash bin later once we get to our hotel room – far from Charles' watchful eyes.

 

 

But for Charles, these turned out to be mere appetisers, as he soon directs us to a Thai restaurant for dinner. With great difficulty, we manage to temper his ordering frenzy, so that only chicken in coconut milk and a red curry appear on the table, accompanied by an excessively sweet lemonade and a dessert of coconut and sticky rice.

Mentally, Melody turns out to be about a century younger than her arch-conservative father Charles

But there’s more to the story. Unexpectedly, yet not coincidentally, Melody makes her appearance. She was working across the street in the library of National Taiwan Normal University and just received a phone call from her father, Charles. For us, this is a golden opportunity, as Melody seems to be about a century younger mentally than her father. Finally, we can speak freely about today’s Taiwan, detached from the ultra-conservative narrative that Charles upholds. A lively conversation unfolds about youth in Taiwan, marriage and having children, and the emancipation of women. The restaurant closes, gently urging us towards the exit, but that doesn’t bother us. Outside in the rain, we continue the fascinating conversation while a doggy bag is left abandoned against one of the table legs inside.

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Wednesday 10 April | Gold Ecological Park – Jinguashi – Jiufen

The dense clouds hang low over the city, but it isn't raining, and the top of Taipei 101 remains visible. That's good news, except that we have the northeastern part of Taiwan on our agenda today. According to Charles, it rains there all the time – or at least 260 days a year.

Nowhere else was the death toll as high as in the infamous Kinkaseki

We quickly reach the coast and continue southward. As soon as the seawater turns a brownish-yellow, we know we are approaching our destination. The pollution in the coastal waters comes from gold and copper ore still being carried down by a river from the mountains. Jinguashi, the place we are heading to, was a significant mining area in the first half of the last century. The underground reserves were enormous, and the Japanese occupiers made good use of them during World War II. They established a prisoner-of-war camp there, Kinkaseki, where British POWs were forced to work under inhumane conditions after the fall of Singapore. Nowhere else was the death toll as high as in the infamous Kinkaseki.

 

Jinguashi – Cemetery

A short but steep climb brings us to the gold mining town situated 300 meters higher, amidst the Gold Ecological Park. Even the rocks in the river are naturally golden here. High against the mountain slope across the valley, we spot hundreds of contemporary graves. Undoubtedly, the feng shui – the Chinese concept of harmony with the environment – is perfect up there, as each morning the graves bask in the first rays of sunlight. Of course, that is, unless it rains.

Japan took control of Taiwan in 1895. A certain Tanaka Chōbei was sent to Jinguashi to exploit the gold mine. At the peak of activity, ten thousand people lived and worked here. In 1945, the National Army of Chiang Kai-shek took over the site, and a few years later, the Taiwan Metal Company established itself here. In 1987, the site closed down following a bankruptcy attributed partly to the recession and partly to mismanagement.

The higher your rank and social class, the better your home, and the higher up the hill it was located

Jinguashi – Gold Ecological Park – Japanese house

Of course, housing during the colonial era was entirely based on Japanese models, as we learn from the film Four Joined Japanese Style Residences. The higher your rank and social class, the better your home, and the higher up the hill it was located. At the very top sits the Crown Prince Chalet, the luxurious residence built for then-Japanese Crown Prince Hirohito. However, he never actually visited, reportedly due to scheduling conflicts.

Slightly lower on the hill are blocks of two homes. The building we visit is situated even further down – a block with four residences. These homes have been restored as much as possible using original materials, and were opened to the public in April 2007.

 

The homes turn out to be typical Japanese residences, with paper walls, minimal furniture, and very little space

 

The homes turn out to be typical Japanese residences, with paper walls, minimal furniture, and very little space. Carefully, we navigate through the sparsely furnished rooms, constantly being whispered instructions – don’t step on the sliding door rails, watch your head on the low doorways, move cautiously to avoid damaging the delicate walls. It makes you wonder if such fragile structures are even suitable for daily living.

 

Gold Refining Building

One of the few well-preserved brick buildings from the Japanese colonial era is the Gold Refining Building. However, it’s not even certain if gold was ever actually refined there. The adjacent Environment Building explores the geology, fauna, flora, and ecology of the region.

 

Gold Ecological Park – Benshan no. 5

Together, the underground tunnels form a labyrinth extending over 600 kilometres. The highest tunnels are located 417 meters above sea level, while the lowest reach 132 meters below sea level. Of these tunnels, only Benshan No. 5 is still accessible, allowing tourists to descend deep inside.

The old factory has been transformed into the Gold Building, now a museum detailing the history of gold. A surprising fact is that, despite all the gold mining throughout history, only 200,000 tons of gold have been extracted worldwide. If stacked, this would form a cube with sides of just 22 meters. A rare commodity indeed, that gold.

Marco Polo’s mention of a golden island in his writings left a lasting impression

Marco Polo’s mention of a golden island in his writings left a lasting impression. In the 17th century, Europeans eagerly searched for that island, and soon Formosa became a potential candidate. The Dutch began digging, just a few hundred meters from where the Jinguashi mine would later emerge. However, their efforts led to nothing.

 

The museum boasts what they call the world's heaviest gold bar, a whopper weighing 220 kg

There are plenty of trivia. One notable story involves Nobel Prize winner Niels Bohr, who, during World War II in Copenhagen, managed to hide several gold medals from the Nazis. Gold is an extremely stable element and doesn't react with other substances, with one exception: aqua regia or regal water, a mixture of hydrochloric and nitric acid that can dissolve gold. Bohr dissolved the medals in aqua regia and left the solution in plain sight in his lab, right under the noses of the Nazis. After the war, he recovered the precious metal and had the Nobel Prize Foundation recast the medals from the same gold.

Another highlight of the museum is what they claim to be the heaviest gold bar in the world, weighing a staggering 220 kilograms. A large display shows the real-time value of the block based on the current gold market price. Visitors are even allowed to touch the bar through two circular openings in the plexiglas case. Couples often pose on either side, with one hand resting on the gold bar.

 

The Crown Prince Chalet, the residence built for the Japanese crown prince exudes a distinctly Japanese style, with its clean and understated design

We take a leisurely stroll to the Crown Prince Chalet, the residence built for the Japanese crown prince who never actually stayed there. The building exudes a distinctly Japanese style, with its clean and understated design, constructed using high-quality materials. However, the garden feels less traditionally Japanese, with its dense foliage. Only the koi swimming in the small ponds serve as a reminder of the intended resident's nationality.

 

Crown Prince Chalet

Next, we head to Jiufen, a nearby town that once thrived on the lucrative waves of gold mining. In the 1930s, business was so booming that the town earned the nickname Little Shanghai. Today, however, Jiufen's charm lies mainly in its old town area, with narrow, winding streets and traditional houses. Not to mention the stunning views over the coastline, dotted with islands and peninsulas – though today's backdrop is somewhat misty.

In the 1930s, business was so booming that the town earned the nickname Little Shanghai

Jiufen – Kochi pottery on a swallowtail roof

Promptly, Charles leads us into Jishan Street, a mostly covered alley filled with shops and countless food stalls. Enjoying the abundant variety of snacks is an essential part of the experience. Fortunately, we’ve managed to make Charles understand that we appreciate small portions best.

 

Jiufen – Jishan Street

 

At Mr. Chong’s, we’re served a soup with mixed meatballs – chicken, pork, and squid. We sit shoulder to shoulder with a young couple from Singapore who are just starting their second day in Taiwan. Further along, we’re handed five skewered balls. These are fish balls, each seasoned differently, neatly arranged from mild to extremely spicy.

 

Jiufen – Jishan Street
Deep sea squid		Stinky tofu

We eat a rice pancake filled with crushed peanuts straight from our hands. Moitsi turns out to be a bizarre combination of sticky rice, red beans, and... grass. Then there are the fried limbs of deep-sea squid, served in the traditional way in a cardboard container.

So far, we have managed to avoid the ultimate taste test: chou doufu, or stinky tofu

But we have so far managed to avoid the ultimate taste test: chou doufu, or stinky tofu as the less flattering English translation calls it. According to Charles, it’s a true delicacy and one of the most popular snacks in Taiwan, China, and Hong Kong. On the other hand, Hui Shou, the monk who guided us last Friday at the Fo Guang Shan monastery, had the unambiguous opinion that it was inedible. It must be said that nearly all Western travel guides echo Hui Shou's sentiment. However, we let Charles persuade us. Reportedly, those who have savoured this delicacy earn nothing but respect from the Taiwanese.

 

Jiufen – Jishan Street

 

So, we go for it. Stinky tofu immediately lives up to its name. The smell that fills the specialty shop is enough to make you swoon in pure nausea. That Charles makes us sit all the way in the back of the small establishment, where neither windows nor doors provide any form of ventilation, doesn't help either. But we persevere.

Essentially it involves fermenting tofu in a brine solution of fermented milk, vegetables, and fish

The preparation of stinky tofu tends to vary depending on regional and individual preferences, but essentially it involves fermenting tofu in a brine solution of fermented milk, vegetables, and fish – a process that can take months. The result is primarily characterised by its pungent odour. However, if you can manage to ignore the smell, the substance actually turns out to be quite palatable. As long as you can avoid associating those odours with waste and decay, you can eat it without gagging.

 

Taipei – Dihua Street

Taipei – Xiahai Temple

At a quarter to three, we arrive at Dihua Street in Taipei, one of the traditional markets of the capital. The area is famous for its historic, often baroque facades, with a shop invariably on the ground floor. However, it is the Xiahai Temple that immediately captures our attention. This temple is dedicated to the City God, a deity from folk devotion believed to protect the city. Individual citizens can also plead for his protection, as well as for health and prosperity.

 

A daoshi, a Taoist priest dressed in red robes and wearing a black guanjin on his head, recites prayers

Xiahai Temple – Daoshi leads ceremony

The temple proves to be extremely popular. There’s a constant flow of people coming and going, praying and making offerings. A daoshi, a Taoist priest dressed in red robes and wearing a black guanjin on his head, recites prayers while five attendees follow the ritual attentively. Occasionally, a bell rings, and participants bow or even kneel. Finally, the bwa bwei, the divining blocks, are cast to predict the future. To conclude, the priest places a symbolic stamp on the back of his attendees as proof that the ritual has been completed. Such Taoist rituals aim to fulfil a wish or solve a problem, Charles explains.

 

Xiahai Temple

City God

We stroll further through the oldest district of the city. If you want to imagine what the bustling Taipei looked like in the 19th century, the streets around Dihua Street are the place to be. Many buildings have been preserved more or less in their original state. The imaginative facades, often built of red brick, rise high above the arcades where the goods are displayed.

 

Dried shark fins

Dried squid

Primarily the dried delicacies that stand out – everything from mushrooms, fish, and shrimp to shark fins and whole squid

Even the offerings exude an atmosphere of nostalgia and tradition. You’ll hardly find supermarkets or electronics stores here; instead, there’s an abundance of traditional products – fresh vegetables and fruit, dried foods, medicinal herbs, colourful fabrics, tea... Most shops are filled to the brim, and the variety is staggering. To the Western eye, it’s primarily the dried delicacies that stand out – everything from mushrooms, fish, and shrimp to shark fins and whole squid. There’s also plenty of swallow nest, another delicacy.

 

Scooters dominate the street scene

Sholangbanghta (stuffed noodles)

Later on the evening, Charles has a theatre performance planned for us. But first, he introduces us to yet another specialty from the exquisite Taiwanese cuisine. It’s called sholangbanghta and it turns out to be a dumpling filled with vegetables or meat. But it’s more than that. Their delicate dough skin is light as a feather, and the filling is exceptionally juicy, making them particularly delicious. So delicious, in fact, that Charles, just for the three of us, casually orders twenty-four dumplings as an appetiser, filled with crab, pork, and vegetables...

You have to mix your own dipping sauce from the little bowls that appear on the table. But of course, Charles can’t resist getting involved in that process. He insists that a ratio of three parts vinegar to one part soy sauce yields the best results. After that, chicken with peanuts and spicy peppers arrives at the table, accompanied by rice with small shrimp, cabbage, and sweet and sour soup.

 

 

The Champs-Élysées of Taipei, that’s what they sometimes call the wide Zongshan Bei Lu, lined with sweet-scented amber trees. We stroll along the bustling boulevard towards Taipei Eye, the theatre building where the Gold Coin Leopard will be performed shortly. In the meantime, we can't help but notice that the side streets offer a different kind of entertainment. It seems that it is primarily Japanese businessmen who are drawn there, as the stressed-out professional will find there everything he needs to unwind after a long, hard day at work.

The artists aim to bring traditional Chinese and Taiwanese performing arts to life for an international audience

Taipei Li-Yuan Peking Open Theatre

Actors getting ready

The artists of the Taipei Li-Yuan Peking Opera Theatre aim to bring traditional Chinese and Taiwanese performing arts to life for an international audience. Tonight's performance is Gold Coin Leopard, a play loosely based on an episode from Journey to the West, a 16th-century Chinese novel and one of the four great classic novels of Chinese literature. Some even go so far as to call this novel the most popular literary work in East Asia. It tells the story of the monk Xuanzang, who set out in the seventh century to learn about the authentic Buddhism of Central Asia and India. It must have been a hellish journey, as he travelled through the Taklamakan Desert and over the Pamir Mountains.

Gold-Coin Leopard has set his lustful eyes on the beautiful daughter of Deng Hong, but she is not interested

Gold Coin Leopard

The princess (right) and her maid

In the lobby of Taipei Eye, the actors are already preparing their makeup. This happens in public, and everyone is welcome to watch. They meticulously apply the heavy makeup that transforms their faces into characters such as a monkey, a clown, a villain, or a beautiful princess. They willingly allow themselves to be photographed and pose with the audience.

 

The princess (right) and her maid

The Nemesis of Gold Coin Leopard

The performance is aimed exclusively at foreigners. Translations are projected on a screen in four languages, including Japanese. The auditorium is only a quarter full, primarily with Japanese attendees. The brief introduction is given in Japanese, and then repeated in English, specifically for the two Belgian attendees present.

 

 

Tonight, Gold-Coin Leopard takes on the role of the villain. It turns out to be a monster whose face is covered in gold coins. True to the nature of villains, it is dressed entirely in black. Gold-Coin Leopard has set his lustful eyes on the beautiful daughter of Deng Hong, but she is not interested. Nevertheless, the monster manages to force Deng Hong to accept the dowry and set a date for the wedding.

 

Gold Coin Leopard and his Nemesis

But that is without taking into account our monk, who happens to be passing through. Two of his followers take the place of the daughter and her maid, waiting for the groom in the bedroom on the night of the wedding. It won't surprise the reader that a thrilling battle ensues in that bedroom and that the villain rightly comes out on the losing end.

But that's not the main focus. The story, which is quite ordinary, serves merely as a backdrop to dazzle us with impressive visual displays and even beautiful acrobatics.

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Thursday 11 April | Taipei – Chiang Kai-shek Memorial – National Palace Museum

This feels like Europe, Charles sighs wearily. The reason for his disappointment is not hard to find. Normally, it’s much warmer in Taipei in April; temperatures below 8 °C (46 °F) are rarely encountered here. It’s like winter, he adds, in case we hadn't grasped just how terribly cold he thinks it is.

 

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial – Liberty Square Arch

Nonetheless, this is going to be a highlight for Charles, as he has saved the national monuments of Taiwan for our last day in Taipei. First up is the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, the mausoleum of Chiang Kai-shek. It’s a controversial monument, as fewer and fewer Taiwanese hold Chiang Kai-shek in high regard. His regime was marked by dictatorial traits, terror, and corruption. Those who disagreed with him often ended up in the cells of Green Island. Historical resentment ran so deep that just five years ago, it looked like this mausoleum would be renamed the National Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall. Chiang Kai-shek's supporters managed to prevent that at the last moment, but they had to accept that the adjacent square would henceforth be called Liberty Square. Such things, we won't hear from Charles. Born to parents who followed Chiang Kai-shek to Formosa in 1949, he refuses to entertain any criticism of Chiang.

 

National Concert Hall

We count thirteen tour buses in the parking lot. So it will be busy there. Through a white gate with five impressive arches, each topped with a swallowtail roof, we enter the twenty-five-hectare complex (62 acres). To the right, Charles points out the National Theatre Hall, and to the left, the National Music Hall. It's quite windy and chilly in the park. Fortunately, the dense clouds do not release a single raindrop.

 

Chiang Kai-shek Memorial

At the centre stands a gigantic white square building topped with a dark blue octagonal roof – a symbol of prosperity and wealth. This is said to be a replica of the Temple of Heaven in Beijing, where the Emperor of China would annually reaffirm the bond between heaven and earth. The claim made here is unmistakable – Chiang Kai-shek belongs in the illustrious line of Chinese rulers.

 

The claim made here is unmistakable – Chiang Kai-shek belongs in the illustrious line of Chinese rulers

We ascend exactly 89 steps to reach the main hall, a deliberate choice as each step is meant to remind us of one year in the life of the general. Inside, a giant statue greets us – Chiang Kai-shek himself, seated in a chair with both forearms resting on the armrests. It resembles a Taiwanese version of the statue of Abraham Lincoln in his Memorial in Washington. Once again, the claim made is unmistakable.

 

It resembles a Taiwanese version of the statue of Abraham Lincoln in his Memorial in Washington. Once again, the claim made is unmistakable

Motionless as wax figures, two soldiers guard the monument. Three words in Chinese characters adorn the back wall: the Three Principles of the People – ethics, democracy, and science. We take the elevator back down to the ground floor, where a permanent exhibition dedicated to the life of the generalissimo awaits us.

When asked if Chiang Kai-shek was ever referred to as Cash-my-check, Charles reacts sharply. He dismisses it as pure propaganda from the chicoms, the communists on the mainland. While he doesn't completely rule out the possibility that Chiang’s wife or family may have engaged in corruption, he firmly asserts that the general himself had nothing to do with. It’s absolutely inconceivable in his view.

 

Chiang Kai-shek and family		Chiang Kai-shek, Franklin D. Roosevelt, Winston Churchill and Madame Kai-shek (Cairo, November 1943)
Chiang Kai-shek's study		Chiang Kai-shek's armoured Cadillac

We already noticed elsewhere that the general had a close relationship with his mother. Wang Cai-yu is her name, her photographs are prominently displayed. His wife, Soong Mei-ling, is also featured prominently. Commonly referred to as Madame Chiang, she was the sister of Sun Yat-sen’s wife, the first president of China, and came from a wealthy family. The couple married on 1 December 1927. Madame Chiang would pass away in Manhattan in 2003 at the age of 105.

Charles calls it absolutely unthinkable that the general himself had anything to do with corruption

Photos of Chiang with notable figures such as Mountbatten, McArthur, Churchill, Eisenhower, Roosevelt, Gandhi, and Governor Ronald Reagan highlight the general's political influence. There are also two black armoured Cadillacs on display: one from 1955, weighing three tons, which he reportedly only used once, and another from 1972, weighing two tons, proudly featuring the lucky number 8 on its license plate.

 

Changing of the guard

Then three soldiers arrive to relieve the guard. They march with measured steps in their blue air force uniforms over the red carpet and take their positions according to a strict ritual. The gleaming chrome of their helmets reflects the imposing ceiling above.

Outside in the park, we notice the first signs with an official warning to avoid contact with birds. The H7N9 virus, which emerged in China in March, is now also circulating in Taiwan. Reportedly, it is one of the deadliest avian influenza viruses for humans.

 

Shrine of the Martyrs

Another place with significant symbolic meaning is the Martyrs' Shrine. We arrive just before eleven, just in time to witness the changing of the guard here as well. This time, it's the naval soldiers in their immaculate white uniforms who perform the duty, mostly in the pouring rain.

 

Shrine of the Martyrs

The architecture of the shrine is said to reference the Hall of Supreme Harmony in the Forbidden City of Beijing, although the shrine is much smaller than the original.

Sun Yat-sen remains the only figure from after the revolution who is still held in high regard both in China and Taiwan

Memorial plaques against the walls behind the shrine pay tribute to those who fell during one of the many heroic wars in 20th-century China – the uprising against the imperial Qing dynasty, the battles against warlords in the tumultuous years following the revolution, the struggle against the Japanese occupiers, and the Second World War and its aftermath.

 

Shrine of the Martyrs – Garden Pavilion

Changing of the guard

It is well-known that Sun Yat-sen was the one who brought the Chinese emperor to his knees in 1911 and became the first president of the Republic of China. However, here we learn that it took considerable effort before that became a reality – only the tenth uprising was successful. In any case, Sun Yat-sen remains the only figure from after the revolution who is still held in high regard both in China and Taiwan.

An estimated three million soldiers and twenty million civilians lost their lives between 1937 and 1945

Changing of the guard

Chinese Civil War Memorial Plaques

The consequences of World War II were possibly even more dramatic for China than for Europe. An estimated three million soldiers and twenty million civilians lost their lives between 1937 and 1945. Under Mao Zedong's leadership, the communists grew stronger, but they were pursued by Chiang Kai-shek, as Charles explains. When Chiang had surrounded the communists in the northern part of the country, the son of one of the warlords convinced him that the fight against the Japanese occupiers was more important than the fight against the communists. This tragic mistake had historical consequences, according to Charles, as Mao's troops narrowly escaped disaster. In hindsight, that man was placed under house arrest, but he was never executed, he emphasises.

Eighty percent of the fight against the Japanese was led by Chiang Kai-shek, yet it is Mao who reaped the rewards

Eighty percent of the fight against the Japanese was led by Chiang Kai-shek, yet it is Mao who reaped the rewards, Charles laments. We search the panels in vain for any mention of Mao. Opponents of Chiang are consistently referred to as rebels.

A final absolute highlight of exploring Taiwan is now approaching – a visit to the National Palace Museum. In the pouring rain, we dive into the 800-meter-long tunnel under the Keelung and arrive at the museum around one o'clock. Over 60 tour buses in the parking lot – it's a bit overwhelming. They continuously come and go at the entrance of the museum, dropping off new loads of visitors.

Actually, we shouldn't be surprised. No tourist from the communist People's Republic—referred to derisively as mainlanders here – will visit Taiwan without stepping into this museum. After all, the greatest art treasures of China are not located in China but in Taiwan. With a collection of 700,000 objects, it is even one of the largest museums in the world.

The Imperial Palace is located in Beijing, but most of the furnishings are in Taipei

Taipei – National Palace Museum

Quickly, a worried Mister Pen advises us to stay away from those mainlanders. They might be infected with the bird flu. Apparently, he doesn’t realise that bird flu is not transmitted from human to human.

Avoiding mainlanders, however, will not be an easy task. The lobby is crowded with them. There are so many that sections are cordoned off with museum ropes just for them. They are parked in groups of fifty until a guide with a little flag arrives to take them along.

 

Taipei – National Palace Museum

We receive a Wi-Fi audio guide, which apparently provides explanations in flawless English. However, what was supposed to be a highlight of our trip to Taiwan turns into a downright nightmare. The mainlanders are loud, pushy, and everywhere. Solo visitors are elbowed aside, whether intentionally or not. If you’re not paying attention for a moment, one of the guides’ flagpoles may poke you in the nose. In front of some halls, there are lines several dozen meters long and five people wide. The lines snake through the corridors and even up the stairs.

We head to the third floor, where the most famous pieces are displayed, and try to make do with what we can. We bypass the halls filled with rows of mainlanders and look for quieter areas, starting with the theme Chinese Jade through the Ages. But the apparent calm is deceptive. Wherever you go, there is always a fleet of mainlanders in front of you

Determined, we switch gears once more. From now on, only completely empty halls can capture our interest. This leads us to Chinese Bronzes through the Ages. There are fantastic pieces on display, and to our relief, we can enjoy them in peace.

Just before three, we’re back downstairs in the lobby. After all, Charles has arranged for an English-language guided tour. We receive a second audio guide, switch our headphones, and hear the voice of Wenling Lu. She’s a gem of a woman who puts all our unease to rest with her flawless English. For two hours, she will guide us through the halls with great expertise, tireless enthusiasm, and a healthy disdain for mainlanders.

She leaves the specific palace unnamed, but it is, of course, the Forbidden City in Beijing – a name she carefully avoids saying

Wenling Lu explains that the Palace Museum owes its name to the fact that it houses the treasures of the imperial palace. She leaves the specific palace unnamed, but it is, of course, the Forbidden City in Beijing – a name she carefully avoids saying. In reality, Taipei's Palace Museum holds the largest collection of what can be considered looted art on Earth. In the 1930s, a total of 1.7 million pieces were packed into 14,000 crates and moved out of reach of the Japanese invaders. The treasures were first sent to Shanghai, then further inland, and returned to Nanjing in 1945. Only a third of that collection was brought to Taiwan at the end of the Chinese Civil War. Remarkably, not a single piece was lost during this incredible odyssey, Wenling Lu concludes.

She glosses over the tension surrounding this collection. The People's Republic of China insists the collection was stolen and rightfully belongs on the mainland, while Taiwan argues that the evacuation was necessary to protect the treasures – pointing to how much historical heritage was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. The result is a divided legacy: the imperial palace is in Beijing, but much of its contents are housed in Taipei.

On the third floor, Wenling Lu begins the tour with the Chinese Jade through the Ages section, as it’s less crowded. Working with jade wasn’t easy when humans began using it around ten thousand years ago because tools were still primitive and jade is a very hard stone. Nevertheless, six thousand years ago, artisans managed to engrave a refined decorative piece shaped like a cloud. A beautiful set of earrings dates back eight thousand years, and a pair of birds is six thousand years old. Among the most typical jade artefacts is the bi, a round disk with a central hole, often used in rituals. Ritual weapons are also part of the collection.

The result is a divided legacy: the imperial palace is in Beijing, but much of its contents are housed in Taipei

A popular amulet from the Han Dynasty is the bixie, a mythical creature in the form of a winged lion. The lion motif could only have reached China via the Silk Road, which was opened under Qin Shi Huangdi, the emperor who gave China its name. Among the nobility, it was customary to cover the openings of a deceased person's head – eyes, ears, nose, and mouth – with jade objects to prevent the soul from escaping. Additionally, a cricket was placed on the tongue as a symbol of rebirth, and the deceased held a pig in each hand, symbolising wealth. After all, it wouldn’t do to arrive in the afterlife empty-handed.

In Europe, jade never acquired the same cultural significance as it did and still does in China. Once Europeans learned to make metal weapons, jade lost its appeal. In China, however, jade remained more than just decoration – it became an enduring symbol.

Wenling Lu leads us to the Chinese Bronzes through the Ages section. The Chinese had mastered the technique of making bronze from copper, tin, and lead by around 2000 BCE. Initially, animal motifs were commonly used as decoration, but later, the dragon and phoenix became prominent symbols.

Notably, there is a bronze bell that produces two different tones depending on where it is struck. The edge of the bell is bevelled to prevent the tones from interfering with each other. Remarkably, this knowledge dates back three thousand years, Wenling Lu emphasises.

The writing on the bottom of the San Family Plate may be one of the oldest written peace treaties in the world

Even more remarkable is the famous San Family Plate, a shallow water basin with 350 characters inscribed on its bottom. This might be one of the oldest written peace treaties in the world, as the text reads like an agreement between two families. Apparently, they had a dispute over a piece of land. The treaty details the terms agreed upon, how the allocated plots will be marked, and who will oversee the execution of the agreement. This object dates back to somewhere between the 13th and 11th centuries BCE.

The bronze casters had plenty of imagination. A large water basin rests on four legs shaped like human slave figures, while an animal, in the form of a handle, hangs over the edge of the basin, seemingly about to drink from it. A wine container is cast in the shape of a strange animal – likely a combination of a cow, pig, and sheep. You fill the vessel with wine through an opening on its back, and pour it out through the animal’s mouth.

Earthenware and ceramics may seem indistinguishable to us, but not to Wenling Lu. If you fire clay at less than 800 °C (1,472 °F), you create earthenware. Due to its porous nature, it must always be glazed to make it watertight. If the clay is fired between 800 °C and 1,200 °C (between 1,472 °F and 2,192 °F), the result is stoneware – a type of ceramic we'd never heard of, but it is watertight. Finally, if fired at over 1,200 °C (2,192 °F), you produce porcelain. But for that, you need kaolin or china clay as the raw material – a fine, white-burning type of clay. In China, kaolin is found in Jiangxi province. In Europe, the main source of kaolin is, unsurprisingly, near Limoges.

A particularly special category is ding ware, an ivory-white or cream-coloured porcelain that was especially popular during the Song Dynasty and known in Europe as blanc de Chine. Wenling Lu points to an oven dish of incredible perfection. The emperor's control over production was so strict that he allowed no more than five kilns in his entire realm. Of course, this didn’t stop some from operating clandestine private kilns.

The folk-like details evoke a subtle resemblance to the works of Pieter Bruegel the Elder, though this piece predates his birth by two centuries

For drawings and paintings, we head to the first floor. Wenling Lu immediately surprises us with Regatta on Dragon Lake, an enormous scroll painting. The theme is a dragon boat race, but it’s the myriad of details that captivate the viewer – the throne where the emperor will sit, boys standing while rowing a canoe, others jumping into the water from a swing, and even floating puppets in the lake. The folk-like details evoke a subtle resemblance to the works of Pieter Bruegel the Elder, though this piece predates his birth by two centuries.

By now, a sense of calm has descended upon the museum. It’s past five, the mainland tourists have been herded back to their buses. We’re now free to explore the museum’s masterpieces at our own pace. One of the most famous pieces is the Jadeite Cabbage. Imagine – a work of art depicting a vegetable, as mundane as that may sound. Yet the artist from the late Qing Dynasty knew exactly what he was doing. Jadeite is a rare form of jade, typically marred by imperfections like colour variations, fractures, and irregularities. But it’s precisely these flaws that the artist cleverly exploited. The result is a lifelike cabbage, rendered in shades of white and green, complete with two remarkably realistic grasshoppers perched atop the leaves.

Rhinoceroses in China, it sounds as believable as penguins at the North Pole

On the third floor, we encounter the Carvings of the Ming and Qing Dynasties section, featuring intricate works made from bamboo, ivory, and rhinoceros horn. Rhinoceroses in China, it sounds as believable as penguins at the North Pole. Yet, once upon a time, rhinos were fairly common in China. Unfortunately, it was their thick skin that sealed their fate. The tough hide was ideal for crafting sturdy battle armour to protect soldiers. Given the near-constant warfare in China some 2,000 years ago, the rhinos were almost completely wiped out by the second century AD.

At six thirty, we rejoin Charles, who has been patiently waiting in the lobby all this time. Soon after, we stop at an establishment that modestly calls itself Top Chef. Shrimp, pork chops, vegetables, tofu, fish ball soup, bitter melon, rice, and orange slices with tea are laid out on the table – essentially, a light evening meal.

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Friday 12 April | Sanxia – Yingge – Taipei Dihua Street – Taoyuan

Sanxia is not far from Taipei, located just 25 kilometres to the southwest. However, with the busy morning traffic, it takes us nearly an hour to get there. But the journey is well worth it, as we are immediately greeted by an architectural gem – what some consider one of the three most beautiful temples in Taiwan.

Each of the 126 stone pillars is intricately hand-carved, each with different motifs

Sanxia – Zushi Temple

Zushi Temple – Meticulous carvings in stone pillars

However, things did not look promising when the Japanese army razed the existing temple to the ground in 1895. That temple had been built in 1769 by immigrants from the Anxi region in Fujian. They had constructed it to honour Qingshui Zushi, an 11th-century monk known for lending a hand when farmers needed rain – an invaluable trait when one's livelihood depended on the yield of tea plantations.

 

The Zushi Temple is an architectural gem, considered by some to be one of the three most beautiful temples in Taiwan

 

More than half a century later, the Zushi Temple was still in ruins. After World War II, the decision was finally made to begin reconstruction. In 1947, the task was entrusted to Li Mei-shu, already a renowned painter and sculptor at the time. This proved to be a brilliant choice, as Li managed to gather some of the finest artisans around him. The result is a showcase of craftsmanship in wood, copper, and stone.

 

The result is a showcase of craftsmanship in wood, copper, and stone

We don't know where to look first as we arrive at the temple around ten o'clock. No wall or pillar has been left untouched. Each of the 126 stone pillars is intricately hand-carved, each with different motifs. The meticulous woodwork, covered in gold leaf, gives the ceilings a magnificent sparkle. On the swallowtail roofs, the colourful kochi ceramics are even more abundant and vibrant than anywhere else.

 

On the swallowtail roofs, the colourful kochi ceramics are even more abundant and vibrant than anywhere else

 

All this beauty does not prevent this from being a living temple, extremely popular with the local population. People come and go – usually housewives between errands, but also couples. They murmur their prayers and throw the bwa bwei, the stones that predict the future, hoping to receive good advice.

 

What future do the bwa bwei predict?

The daogu loudly recites the texts while striking a small gong. She wears a black cap with a gold crown on her head

Sometimes they have a service ordered, like the old woman in one of the side halls. With hunched shoulders and burning incense sticks in her hands, she watches with concern as a daogu, a Taoist priestess, performs the ritual. Perhaps she hopes for good health. The daogu loudly recites the texts while striking a small gong. She wears a black cap with a gold crown on her head. To conclude, she places a symbolic stamp on the back of the woman's jacket as proof that the ritual has been completed.

 

Sanxia – Zhangfu Bridge

The fact that Sanxia is located at the confluence of three rivers has served the town well. Not only does it owe its name Three Gorges to this, but also its somewhat faded glory. The transport of coal, camphor, and indigo was a lucrative business. This is still evidenced by the stately old merchant houses made of red brick on Minchuan Old Street. They date back to the time of the Qing Dynasty and the Japanese occupation.

The stately old red brick merchant houses in Minchuan Old Street still bear witness to Sanxia's bygone glory

Sanxia – Minchuan Old Street

It is still lightly raining as we stroll through the recently renovated shopping street. A covered gallery runs along the entire length of the street in the facades. Modern shops occupy the old buildings.

A popular snack here turns out to be the ox horn bread, a breakfast cake shaped like an ox horn, which inevitably resembles a croissant. Chicken feet are offered with cartilage and all. A spicy sauce is supposed to make the dish more palatable. It tastes... crunchy.

We find the composition of the gift boxes for babies a bit macabre, but apparently that is quite normal here

Manufacturing of calligraphic brushes

Gift box for newborn baby

Elsewhere, a young woman catches our attention. She is working with baby hair, making brushes for calligraphy. Apparently, these are intended for gift boxes. Each box contains three such brushes, a stamp made from the baby's hair, and a stamp with a piece of umbilical cord. Both stamps bear the name of the newborn. A photo of the adorable baby and an impression of both little feet complete the package. We find it a bit macabre, but according to Charles, this is quite common here.

 

Handmade soaps

Ox horn bread

Another shop specialises in handmade soap. You can find all sorts of varieties there – lavender, sandalwood, cypress, lemon, orchid, and even coffee. You pay between two hundred and three hundred Taiwan dollars – five to eight euros – for a 100-gram bar of soap. The company has some fame in Taiwan, as they have already appeared on TV, according to Charles.

 

Yingge

Ceramics

Ceramics is the specialty of Yingge, a town just across the highway. The craft was introduced here as early as 1804, but it was the Japanese who significantly boosted the artisanal industry in the 1930s. By 1970, the town was even the third-largest ceramics production centre in the world.

 

By 1970, the town was even the third-largest ceramics production centre in the world

Dozens of ceramic shops line Yingge Old Street. The selection is impressive – cups, mugs, teapots, plates, vases, kitchenware, toys, and decorative artworks – but very similar. If you’ve seen one store, you’ve seen them all. We slurp down a bowl of noodles with pork, accompanied by a sweet plum drink for dessert, and return to Taipei through the pouring rain.

What to expect from a Museum of World Religions isn’t immediately clear. But that will soon change, as Mister Pen drops us off at the museum’s doorstep shortly after two. As a warm-up, we are shown a video. For twelve minutes, the major creation myths of the planet are presented – including the escapades of Adam and Eve.

 

Taipei – Museum of World Religions

Model of a Gothic cathedral

Eight major world religions are covered – Christianity, Judaism, Islam, Buddhism, Taoism, Shinto, Sikhism, and Hinduism. The museum focuses on rites and practices, temples and churches, as well as the clothing and ritual objects associated with them. Smaller religions also receive some attention, such as Zoroastrianism, and the religions of ancient Egypt and the Maya. The museum keeps its finger on the pulse, as evidenced by the mention of Pope Francis I in relation to Catholicism – he was elected just a month ago.

What the museum sees as its mission is made clear in the film The Concept of the World of Avatamsaha. At least, that is the intention, but in practice, we don't understand much of it since it is presented exclusively in Chinese, this time without subtitles. However, we gradually begin to realise that an attempt is being made here to synthesise the key concepts of world religions – albeit flavoured with a dominant Buddhist influence. As stated in the accompanying brochure, the museum aims to create a bond between the messages and ideas of world religions, connecting the points of similarity – peace, devotion, and love – in a living Internet of Love. Cute, but dreamy.

The museum aims to connect the points of similarity – peace, devotion, and love – in a living Internet of Love. Cute, but dreamy

Back in Taipei, on our way to Ximending, the place to be for young people and fashion enthusiasts, we cross the mighty Tamsui River. Charles points out that it sometimes overflows its banks, especially when a typhoon passes through, so caution is advised. If you leave your car parked on one of the streets along the river during such a time, there’s a good chance it will end up underwater. Even parking garages can flood.

Even in the early afternoon, Ximending is relatively busy. With the rush hour in full swing, getting out isn’t an option anymore, as there is not enough time left. Too bad, we would have liked to spend more time here. For instance, to take a peek into the famous tattoo alley, where no body part is safe from piercings or tattoos.

 

Taipei – Grand Hotel

From the slopes of Jiantan, the stately Grand Hotel overlooks the Keelung River, a tributary of the Tamsui. Shortly after five, we arrive for our last dinner. We take a moment to explore the opulent hotel, which likes to boast that former Governor Bill Clinton once stayed here. A gigantic floral arrangement featuring hundreds of purple orchids dominates the lobby. Red pillars, red lanterns, an intricately carved wooden ceiling, a carpet you sink into by inches, and an exhibition of exquisite porcelain pieces – imperial China is not far away. Photos of celebrities who have graced the hotel with their presence adorn the walls of the hallways.

 

Taipei – Grand Hotel

It's almost seven-thirty when we enter Terminal 1 of Taoyuan Airport and say goodbye to our tour guide Charles and our inscrutable, always silent driver, Mister Pen. A pariah among nations, we labelled their country upon arrival. But it turns out to be also a country full of confidence, full of belief in its own capabilities. A land torn between an unprocessed past and an uncertain future. A land populated by Chinese people who behave like Japanese in every respect.

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Jaak Palmans
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