Portuguese went, pirates came

Morocco | Anno 2011

 

Monday, April 18 | Fez – Rabat

Tuesday, April 19 | Rabat – Casablanca – El Jadida

Wednesday, April 20 | El Jadida – Safi – Essaouira

Thursday, April 21 | Essaouira

 

 

Monday, April 18 | Fez – Rabat

Today, we leave the inland behind and head west, for the first time seeking out Morocco’s 2 500 km long Atlantic coast, a journey of over 200 km.

Along the road, enormous concrete pillars serve as a reminder of the wedding celebrations for two daughters of the late King Hassan II. At that time, a massive tent had been stretched over the pillars for the festivities. While the pillars have stood the test of time, both marriages have not. This prompts our guide Aziz to devote his daily lecture to the topic of divorce in Morocco.

In the past, the process was fairly straightforward. The man would go to court to request the divorce, and the woman would receive a letter and three months of alimony. And that was the end of it.

Thanks to the relentless efforts of Princess Lalla Salma, wife of King Muhammad VI, the social status of women in Morocco has significantly improved

However, thanks to the relentless efforts of Princess Lalla Salma, wife of King Muhammad VI, the social status of women in Morocco has significantly improved, Aziz explains. Nowadays, both husband and wife must appear before a judge together before they can proceed with a divorce. The judge will first try to resolve the issue, a process that takes time and can be costly. As a result, potential divorcees now think twice before taking that step. In any case, it is the man who must leave the house, even if the woman is guilty. The home remains with the woman and the children, and the assets are divided. Whether these laws are equally applied in rural areas, we do not learn.

 

 

The improved social position of women still does not prevent a man from marrying up to four wives. Polygamy is legally permitted in Morocco. Abolishing this law is not an option, as the Quran explicitly allows polygamy.

Originally, polygamy served as a practical solution during times of unrest or war to keep widows from turning to prostitution

Originally, polygamy served as a practical solution during times of unrest or war to keep widows from turning to prostitution and to provide orphaned children with a roof over their heads. However, it was likely not the Prophet's intention that men would surround themselves with four young women in times of peace and prosperity. Besides, Aziz remarks, it’s never Berbers who are polygamous, but rather Arabs.

Although the law cannot prohibit polygamy, it can make it quite challenging for men with a high level of testosterone. For instance, a man must obtain explicit permission from his first wife before he can take a second wife. She must give this consent verbally, in the absence of her husband. Additionally, she must explain to the judge why she is giving this permission – for instance, if she is ill or infertile. Furthermore, the man must prove that he has sufficient financial resources to support all these wives and children.

As we drive into increasingly dense clouds, Aziz broaches the sensitive topic of migration. It is estimated that around four million Moroccans currently live in Western Europe. This migration is not a recent development; it began under the French protectorate during World War II, when many Moroccans fought in the French army.

Migration to Western Europe has slowed significantly, given Morocco's relative prosperity today

Economic migration, however, only began in the 1960s, when countries like France, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Germany began to attract cheap labour to take on dirty or difficult jobs. Since then, this has become an important source of foreign currency for Morocco.

Aziz himself moved to France with his family in his early twenties during the 1970s. Later, he lived for five years in the Netherlands, while his children still live in Belgium.

It’s a delicate matter, Aziz sighs. Migrants of the first and second generations were hardworking people, born in Morocco and embodying a Moroccan mentality. They had respect for their parents and for anyone older than them. For Moroccan youth born in Western Europe, however, this is no longer the case. Their parents cannot raise their children as they would in Morocco – where it’s sometimes acceptable to give a defiant child a firm slap.

As a result, neither the government nor parents have much control over these boys. They feel free and sometimes even end up in crime, partly as a form of revenge for the discrimination they experience on a daily basis. This does not paint a good picture of Moroccans. Moroccans in Morocco are, in fact, ashamed of the behaviour of their compatriots in Western Europe.

But Western European governments also share some of the blame, Aziz suggests, as they failed to prevent ghettoization, which has hampered integration. A solution is hard to find, especially since some political parties benefit from the situation, and certain media exaggerate the problems.

The more passionately Aziz speaks, the darker the clouds grow above us. By half-past nine, rain is pouring down on the bus. Aziz concludes by noting that migration to Western Europe has slowed significantly, given Morocco's relative prosperity today. The country itself now faces an immigration issue due to the constant flow of migrants from sub-Saharan Africa, who end up stuck in the Strait of Gibraltar on their way to Europe.

Gradually, the sun breaks through the clouds again as we cruise comfortably along the A2 toward Rabat. A rolling green landscape drifts past the window: expansive grain fields, olive groves on the slopes, a cluster of cypress trees surrounding an ochre farmhouse with a red roof. Once again, it’s as though Tuscany is just around the corner.

The Al-Maamora forest is said to be the largest cork oak forest in the world

Just south of Kenitra, the Al-Maamora forest changes the landscape. This cork oak forest, covering an area of 1 300 square kilometres is said to be the largest of its kind in the world. Cork is harvested from the bark of these trees. Quite a few trunks have been carefully stripped to a height of about two meters. A cork oak needs nine years to regenerate its cork bark. Brown truffles are also found here. These are located not by pigs but by dogs and sell for 25 to 30 euros per kilogram.

 

Rabat – Royal Palace

Meanwhile, we approach the capital, Rabat, and Aziz has much to share about it. Berbers already lived there during the time of the Phoenicians and the Romans, but the name Rabat only came into use in the 10th century when the Zenata Berbers established a fortified monastery, or ribat, there.

In the 12th century, the Almohads rose to power. Yaqub al-Mansur ordered the construction of the Kasbah of the Udayas, the oldest kasbah in the country. The sultan himself settled in Rabat, making it Morocco's third royal city after Fez and Marrakesh.

Nearly all coastal cities – Rabat, Casablanca, Agadir, and others – fell into Portuguese hands at the beginning of the 16th century as they sought strategic bases for their sea route to India. However, the Saadians quickly put an end to Portuguese control.

In total, the Mechouar, the royal district, covers forty hectares (hundred acres). The twelve hundred people who work there are allowed to live there for free

In 1627, the two sister cities Rabat and Salé – on opposite sides of the Oued Regreg estuary – jointly declared their independence. This République des Deux Rives or Republic of the Two Rivers quickly developed into a notorious and formidable pirate state. For two centuries, Rabat-Salé plagued the Atlantic waters. Even in British coastal waters, European ships were no longer safe. Alongside piracy, a thriving slave trade significantly contributed to its economy. It was only in the early 19th century that this pirate stronghold saw its power decline. The last ship was captured in 1829.

 

Rabat – Royal palace

In 1912, the French protectorate once again declared Rabat the capital, a status it retained even after Morocco gained independence in 1956. Today, Rabat-Salé is home to two million residents. The Royal Palace, government, parliament, and embassies are all located here, making Rabat the administrative capital of the country, while Casablanca serves as its economic capital.

Around noon, we cruise down Muhammad V Avenue in central Rabat. A protest is underway in front of the parliament building. People with disabilities are voicing their frustration over their inability to find employment despite holding doctorates. A bit later, we find ourselves at Restaurant Saadi – by far one of the most charming spots we’ve visited. Given the proximity to the sea, we’re tempted by grilled sardines and whiting à la meunière.

Rabat is the administrative capital of the country, while Casablanca serves as its economic capital

Through the Gate of Ambassadors, we enter the grounds around the Royal Palace. Skilfully pruned ficus trees line the wide avenue, making us feel as if we are driving between two massive, floating green beams. The Ministry of Internal Affairs and Islamic Affairs comes into view outside our window. Since Aziz explained to us how the Friday sermons are produced, we understand why these two departments operate under the same roof.

 

Rabat – Royal palace

In total, the Mechouar, the royal district, covers forty hectares (hundred acres). The twelve hundred people who work there are allowed to live there for free. They even have their own mosque at their disposal.

Against the blue sky, the tall silhouettes of a row of araucaria trees stand out – known, for unclear reasons, as monkey puzzle trees. Large fans hum among the shrubs, which are part of the air conditioning system for secret installations beneath the square. According to Aziz, no one knows what goes on down there.

The ochre-coloured palace with its green roofs dates only from the 18th century. While King Hassan II lived here regularly, Muhammad VI resides elsewhere. However, when the king is in Rabat, this is his official workplace. You won’t be able to tell by looking at the Moroccan flag above the gate; it is raised every morning and lowered every evening, regardless of the king's presence.

 

Royal palace

A handful of uniformed men stand around the entrance gate – members of the army, the royal guard, and the secret service. They lean casually against pillars or chat among themselves.

One of them, a black man, wears a red headdress and a white djellaba. This indicates that he is one of the king's personal servants, a direct descendant of the black people imported as slaves by Moulay Ismail in the 17th century. However, Muhammad VI has decided to end this practice after this generation, Aziz emphasises.

Further along is the royal cemetery. It’s a sort of refined mortuary, as when Muhammad V died in 1961, his body was kept there in a standby state for ten years until his prestigious mausoleum was completed.

 

Royal Palace – Throne Room Gate

As we stroll toward the Gate of the Throne Room, Aziz once again waxes lyrical about what he calls the revolutionary king. While his father, Hassan II, focused almost exclusively on foreign policy, Muhammad VI dedicates himself fully to his own country. He has nearly discarded traditional protocol. Whenever Hassan II went out, he was always accompanied by a convoy and an entourage of thousands of police officers. When Muhammad VI goes out, he does so alone, in a convertible. From convoy to convertible – this is the process of Moroccan alternance reduced to its essence.

In elegant calligraphic script, a greeting is inscribed above the gate of the Throne Room. Aziz attempts to translate it: Whoever enters through me is welcome; whoever departs through me is wished happiness and a long life.

 

Chellah – Gate

Through the Gate of the Supreme Command, we exit the Mechouar. Aziz has a little surprise in store for us – the Chellah, the sacred necropolis. The complex is entirely enclosed by a 14th-century wall, complete with towers. Hardly has our driver, Muhammad, dropped us off at the gate when two gentlemen in traditional attire appear to entertain us with their musical instruments.

As we descend toward the site, Aziz points out several plants – jacaranda, euphorbia, volubilis, and medlar trees. To our surprise, the area is teeming with storks. In the trees, on the crumbling walls, and on the minaret. Here, they have found the peace they need for nesting. Often, just the head of a chick can be seen peeking out, eagerly awaiting the little fish brought by its parents.

 

Chellah – Minaret

Storks

The spectacular sound of clattering beaks fills the air. While it might be intended as a declaration of love, in this context, it seems more like an alarm signal against intruders – against us, in other words.

 

Roman site near Chellah

Apparently, there was already an ancient Roman site here when the Marinids began to develop their necropolis. Not much remains of it now. Judging by the vague foundations, it must have been a fairly small town. However, the key public buildings are still identifiable – capitol, forum, basilica, curia, baths, and even a triumphal arch. In ancient times, the town was situated on the edge of the Roman Empire. Further south, in the eyes of the Romans, there were only barbarians. The Berbers retained their name from that era.

Further south, in the eyes of the Romans, there were only barbarians. The Berbers retained their name from that era

It was at this very location that the Marinid sultan Abu Yaqub Yusuf had a modest burial complex built in 1284. However, it would take over half a century for Sultan Abu al-Hasan to construct a wall around the entire complex.

Since then, the earthquake of 1755 caused significant damage to the Islamic site, but the walls of the madrasa, the mosque, and the small mausoleum still stand. The mihrab in the mosque is still clearly identifiable. The minaret appears almost unscathed – much to the delight of the storks.

 

The spectacular sound of clattering beaks fills the air

Abu al-Hasan is, by the way, the first and only sultan ever buried here. Overall, the fairly intact gravestones are quite modest in design. To the left of the sultan lies his son, and to the right, his wife, with the beautiful name Chams Al-Doha – Morning Sun. Aziz refers to him as the Black Sultan, a nickname he earned due to his Abyssinian mother.

Aziz has another surprise up his sleeve – the eel pond. The 35 eels that inhabit this pond are anything but ordinary. They supposedly possess the miraculous ability to cure female sterility. All a woman has to do is throw a hard-boiled egg into the water. The eels then appear to devour this symbol of fertility. And lo and behold, the woman becomes fertile.

Even though sterility isn't our primary concern, we're curious to put this to the test. Purely by coincidence, a man is stationed near the pond with a good supply of hard-boiled eggs. Upon simple request, he agrees – for a modest fee – to peel one of the eggs and toss it into the water.

However, the eels shy away from the bright sunlight. More than a grey head that nervously keeps to the shadows is all we can see. The fact that the bottom seems covered with egg white suggests that this experiment often fails. The frequent tossing of coins into the water by visitors to make wishes surely does little to calm the eels.

 

Kasbah of the Udayas – Bab Udaya

A little after three, we reach the Kasbah of the Udayas, at the mouth of the Bou Regreg. This is the site where, in the 10th century, the ribat was established, giving Rabat its name and serving as the base from which pirates would terrorise the Atlantic Ocean in the 17th and 18th centuries. Today, the kasbah is beautifully restored, and according to Aziz, this luxury neighbourhood of about 20 hectares (50 acres) is mainly inhabited by artists. Living here is exceedingly expensive, and those who manage to acquire a home rarely give it up.

 

Kasbah of the Udayas – Waterfront

Aziz doesn’t miss the chance to warn us about girls who may want to tattoo our hands. Henna tattoos are fairly harmless, lasting at most one to two weeks. Hargoes, on the other hand, a mixture of plant-based substances, penetrates the skin permanently. Originally, such tattoos served as a kind of identity marker; from the applied patterns, one could recognise the tribe to which the wearer belonged.

 

Kasbah of the Udayas

Sometimes we imagine ourselves on one of the Greek Cyclades

In the past, unmarried girls would sometimes have a tattoo on their forehead or chin. Upon marriage, they would add a second tattoo. If they became single again, a third tattoo would be added. But that’s a thing of the past, says Aziz. Nowadays, girls no longer get permanent tattoos on their faces.

 

Kasbah of the Udayas

Via Bab Udaya, we enter the former pirate haven. Narrow, uneven alleys wind downwards, lined with nearly all restored and immaculately maintained houses. Their blue-and-white facades perfectly blend the colours of sea and sun, giving the impression of being on one of the Greek Cyclades islands. We make our way down to the Moorish café by the riverbank, only to find the Musée Ethnographique des Oudayas closed for renovation. Apparently, it has been that way for many years.

 

Mausoleum of Muhammad V

The white marble tomb, topped with a green dome, is considered one of the most beautiful modern Islamic buildings

It’s half past four when we arrive at the mausoleum of Muhammad V. Guards on horseback keep watch at the two gates – brown horses on one side, white on the other. The white marble tomb, topped with a green dome, is considered one of the most beautiful modern Islamic buildings.

 

Mausoleum of Muhammad V

This is one of the few mausoleums in Morocco open to tourists. At its centre lies the tomb of Muhammad V. To the rear right rests his son Abdullah, and to the rear left, his son and successor Hassan II, who commissioned the mausoleum for his father. An imam usually sits among the graves, reading from the Quran – though as soon as we arrive, he packs up and leaves. The complex also includes a mosque and a small museum.

In 1190, Sultan Yaqub al-Mansur wanted to build the second largest mosque in the world

Unfinished mosque and minaret of Yaqub al-Mansur

Unfinished mosque, Mausoleum of Muhammad V

A strange forest of unfinished columns stretches across the rest of the plaza – 424 columns, to be precise. Rising 44 meters above them is a stumpy brick tower, the remnant of Sultan Yaqub al-Mansur’s grandiose project from 1190, when he sought to build the world’s second-largest mosque, surpassed only by the Great Mosque of Samarra in Iraq at that time.

The mosque was meant to measure 183 by 139 meters, with the minaret reaching 80 meters. However, Yaqub’s death in 1199 and the earthquake of 1755 halted construction. Even so, what remains, later called the Hassan Tower, is still awe-inspiring. Its 2,5-meter-thick walls are richly decorated with reliefs on the outside. Inside, a spiralling ramp leads upward, allowing the muezzin to ascend on horseback five times a day – a feature shared with its contemporaries, the Giralda in Spanish Seville and the Koutoubia in Marrakech.

 

Mausoleum

Unfinished minaret

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Tuesday, April 19 | Rabat – Casablanca – El Jadida

Just before eight, the bus sets off. While driver Muhammad finds the A3 to take us along the Atlantic coast down to Casablanca, Aziz begins his lecture on Morocco's social welfare system.

Morocco, he says, has nearly every social provision, with the notable exception of unemployment benefits. Currently, both men and women can retire at 60, although that will soon change. For those born after 1962, the retirement age will soon rise to 65. Some may qualify for early retirement at 55, while government employees can retire after 23 years of service. Elderly care facilities, though available and free, often stand empty, as traditional families typically care for their elderly themselves, seeing it as a matter of honour and duty.

Elderly care facilities, though available and free, often stand empty, as traditional families typically care for their elderly themselves

Healthcare, including medication and surgeries, is free too – at least for those unable to pay. If you’re enrolled in a health insurance plan, you get 80 % of your costs reimbursed. For each child under 18 or still studying, parents receive 20 euros in monthly child benefits.

All in all, social security here isn’t too bad, concludes Aziz. But the major problem in Morocco is the wages. One simply cannot live on the minimum wage – a paltry 250 euros per month.

Aziz then moves to celebrations. Morocco is highly tolerant in that regard – everyone joins in the festivities, whether it’s an Islamic, Christian, or Jewish holiday.

During Eid al-Kabir, they commemorate Abraham’s willingness to sacrifice his son Isaac. Nowadays, it has become a yearly genocide of sheep. On that one day alone, no less than 4,3 million sheep are slaughtered in Morocco, between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., Aziz specifies. That’s 18 000 per minute, if our math is right.

Eid es-Seghir marks the end of Ramadan, and Mawlid commemorates the birth of the Prophet Muhammad. Ashura, on the other hand, is a children’s holiday.

And then there are the national holidays – Muhammad VI’s Accession to the Throne, Independence Day, the Feast of Youth – and Christian celebrations like Christmas and Easter. In short, there’s no shortage of holidays.

Circumcisions of boys used to be done by the hairdresser – quickly and without anaesthesia

Naturally, family gatherings also play a role in celebrations. Besides weddings, there is the sfoura, or seventh-day celebration, when a newborn receives their name. Then there’s the circumcision ceremony. Islam mandates that every boy be circumcised between the ages of two and seven. In the past, a barber would handle it quickly – without anaesthesia. Nowadays, only a doctor is qualified to perform it. As for girls, Aziz firmly states, they are never circumcised in Morocco.

Gradually, we approach Casablanca. Only superlatives suffice to describe this city – the largest airport, the largest seaport, the largest population, the worst traffic congestion, the most pollution. Four-fifths of Morocco's industry is located here. Around 1900, it was home to 20 000 people; now, there are 5 million.

But finding points of interest here requires a magnifying glass. The Hassan II Grand Mosque is the main attraction – if not the only one worth seeing.

The 1 100-ton roof can slide open in just three minutes and close again in two minutes

Casablanca – Grand Hassan II Mosque

Aziz can barely contain his disdain when he discusses this prestige project of the previous king. After the Al-Masjid al-Haram in Mecca, it is the largest mosque in the world. Its construction took seven years, using the most expensive materials – titanium, marble, cedar wood. Hassan II even had the nerve to ask the population for a voluntary financial contribution – a practice commonly known as taxation in other countries. Both domestically and internationally, there was considerable criticism. In Morocco, funds of this magnitude should be put to more meaningful use. It was Hassan II’s vanity project, Aziz grumbles, noting that the local population rarely comes here to pray.

During prayer, two laser beams from the minaret reach 30 km in the direction of Mecca

Minaret of the Grand Mosque

It takes driver Muhammad twenty-five minutes to reach the mosque in the centre of Casablanca – the city lives up to its reputation. The salty sea air greets us. The gigantic square seems to reduce the mosque and its colossal minaret in the distance to human proportions. But that impression fades as we approach. The 200-meter-high colossus towers imposingly against the blue sky.

Shortly after ten, Afifa leads us into the prayer hall. You won’t catch her on critical remarks; this will be a story of superlatives and exaltation. And above all, numbers. Starting with the prayer hall, which is 60 meters high, 200 meters long, and 100 meters wide – almost three football fields. This space accommodates 25 000 worshippers – 20 000 men on the ground floor, 5 000 women on the two mezzanines. Outside, another 80 000 worshippers can be accommodated, bringing the total to 105 000. Intricate woodwork from Marrakech shields the women’s mezzanines from prying glances from the men’s section.

 

Grand Mosque – Prayer Hall

The domes and roof are made of cedar wood. Granite columns covered with a layer of marble support the 1 100-ton roof. Yet, this roof can slide open in just three minutes and close again in two.

During prayer, two laser beams from the minaret reach 30 km in the direction of Mecca. The 200-meter-high minaret has a footprint of 25 meters by 25 meters. The cascade of figures seems endless, as if to overwhelm us into awe.

Salty sea air is not exactly a metal-friendly environment. Therefore, the six colossal gates are made entirely of titanium

About two-thirds of the mosque is located above seawater, in accordance with words from the Quran – His throne rested upon the water. The foundations of this platform reach 60 meters deep into the rocks. However, the salty sea air is not exactly a metal-friendly environment, which is why the six colossal gates are made entirely of titanium.

 

Grand Mosque – Prayer Hall

There are no prayer mats in the prayer hall. After all, that would hide the richly decorated marble floor from view, as Afifa explains. And besides, nobody comes to pray here, a disrespectful thought flashes through our minds. Electric underfloor heating must then prevent the cold marble from deterring devoted worshippers.

Electric underfloor heating must then prevent the cold marble from deterring devoted worshippers

Meanwhile, we have arrived at the section for daily use, close to the mihrab. It is filled with carpets, and you can see nothing of the precious heated marble floor. Compared to the disproportionate building, the minbar looks ridiculously small. But no worries; three hundred speakers let the imam’s words echo throughout the mosque. They are so ingeniously integrated into the lavish decor that you can barely see them.

 

 

Also ingenious, according to Afifa, are the impressive chandeliers made of Venetian glass, high above our heads. Cleaning them is not so simple. But no worries; electrically operated motors lower these objects, each weighing more than a ton, flawlessly to the desired height.

For seven years, from 1986 to 1993, 2 500 workers and 10 000 artists worked on this project. We won't hear from Afifa about various estimates suggesting that the number of fatal workplace accidents runs into the hundreds.

We descend a wide staircase to the room for ritual purification. Here, forty-one elegant washbasins wait for unclean men. On the other side of the mosque, women can expect a similar setup. A moisture-absorbing material on the pillars keeps the humidity and temperature in the room constant.

The hammam has not been used in the past eighteen years. But one day it will be, inshallah

Grand Mosque – Basins for ritual purification

Turkish bath

The wudu, the ritual purification before prayer, is an absolute necessity and must be performed strictly according to the regulations; otherwise, the prayer is invalid. It is certainly not a quick wash, if we are to believe Afifa. One must wash both hands three times, rinse the mouth with water three times using the right hand, and thoroughly clean the nostrils by sniffing water three times. One must wash the face three times, wash both arms up to the elbows three times – first the right, then the left. Rub wet hands over the head and ears. Wash both feet up to the ankles – first the right, then the left, not forgetting the spaces between the toes. In practice, Moroccans don’t always adhere strictly to this, we imagine Aziz adding.

These areas have nothing to do with religion, Afifa emphasises as we enter the hammam. This is the secular part of the mosque, after all. Slightly surprised, we look around. In the bare, empty spaces, there is no trace of human presence – no furniture, no benches, no towels, no drop of water. No, Afifa acknowledges when asked, this hammam has not been used in the past eighteen years. But one day it will be, inshallah, she adds with full conviction.

At the very end, we actually come across a Turkish bath. The basin full of useless water is kept at a constant temperature of 35 °C. When asked about the cost of all this beauty, Afifa drops the figure of one billion euros.

 

Atlantic Ocean

Shortly after eleven, we leave the sterile mastodon that no one wanted – except for Hassan II himself – and head towards Boulevard de la Corniche, the only other significant place in Casablanca. A stiff breeze is blowing, and waves break into abundant white foam on the beaches. Luxury hotels, restaurants, nightclubs, and discotheques set the tone here. In Le Bistro, the proud chef shows us his fresh catch – the fish looks as if it has just jumped from the ocean onto his plate.

It takes quite some time for us to navigate through the busy traffic to reach Muhammad V Square. Aziz wants to give us a glimpse of the centre of Casablanca. However, there is a demonstration taking place, and that’s not something he wants to deal with. Further down, we have no luck either; roadworks are hindering our progress. So we decide to move on.

For the Portuguese, Mazagão – later El Jadida – was an important base for their expeditions to India

El Jadida – Fortress Wall

Driving further south along the comfortable A5, we continue along the Atlantic coast, often passing through rolling fields of golden ears of grain. For the Portuguese, Mazagão was an important base for their expeditions to India. They held their ground there until 1769. The settlement that later developed around the remains of the Portuguese city was named El Jadida, meaning The New.

 

El Jadida – Fortress Wall

Just before four, Muhammad drops us off at the gate of what is now known as the Cité Portugaise. Abdeljalid promptly appears – a spry old man who is more than willing, for a modest fee, to give us a tour of the fortress.

 

El Jadida – Access to the Cité Portugaise

Rua da Carreira

A mighty fortress wall, measuring 300 by 200 meters, surrounds the complex, with a bastion at each of the four corners. The wall and some buildings date back to the 16th century, while the rest are from the 19th century. Since 2004, the site has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

 

El Jadida

Through the small, dark gate, we enter the sunlit Rua da Carreira, the main street that splits the fortress into two unequal parts. The Ascension Church on our left has served various purposes over the years – as a warehouse, a residence, and even a mosque.

 

El Jadida

But a little further along is where the site's main attraction lies. When the Portuguese built a fort in the heart of the fortress in 1514, access to drinking water was one of their primary concerns. The underground cistern, which solved that problem, eventually fell into obscurity and was only rediscovered by chance in 1927.

Proud as if he were the original builder, Abdeljalid leads us down into the dimly lit space. We feel transported back to the Middle Ages. Even Orson Welles appreciated this setting – in 1951, he filmed scenes for his movie Othello here.

 

The Portuguese underground cistern was forgotten and was only rediscovered by chance in 1927

Twenty-five columns divide the 34-meter-square room into six equal naves. Crystal-clear, still water has claimed most of the hall, perfectly reflecting the ribbed vaults above. Sunlight casts a bright, white shaft through a small oculus in the ceiling. This opening, Abdeljalid explains, was once used to draw up water.

The water was collected in open-air terraces and channelled into the underground cistern. Abdeljalid points out the small channels where water was brought in from each of the four corners. The joints of the brick floor were sealed with lead to make them watertight. Lead poisoning wasn’t a concern back then.

From the fortress walls, we take a final look over the city and the old port, where a few boats are being repaired.

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Wednesday, April 20 | El Jadida – Safi – Essaouira

We leave the highway behind, opting instead for the R301 to continue our journey southwest along the Atlantic coast. The leisurely coastal road gives us an extensive introduction to the rural coastal landscape.

 

This part of the ocean is considered one of the richest fishing grounds in the world, particularly known for its sardines

Eighty percent of agricultural plots in Morocco are smaller than 5 hectares (12 acres), Aziz informs us. Mechanisation is unheard of here; everything is done in an extremely primitive manner. Donkeys pull a wooden plough, and harvesting is done by hand. Most small plots are bordered by stone walls – after all, where else would you put the stones that get in the way of ploughing? Some fallow plots are still littered with stones, where cows, sheep, and donkeys graze – the sheep under the watchful eye of a shepherd, while the cows have their front legs tied together.

 

The cultivated fields often extend right up to the beach

High-voltage power lines carry electricity inland from a coastal power plant. In Morocco, electricity mainly comes from thermal power stations and hydroelectric dams. Nuclear plants are under construction, with one near Rabat and two in the desert to the south. Strangely, solar panels are barely used in sun-drenched Morocco – Aziz explains that they’re simply too expensive, a fact he has calculated for himself.

Solely for phosphate export, the remote coastal seaport of Douar Oulad Zid was developed. Phosphate is a crucial source of income for Morocco, which holds an impressive 70 % of the world’s phosphate reserves.

 

Oualidia – Salt pans

Salt also plays an important role here. At the salt pans near Oualidia, sea salt is harvested in the open air. In large, shallow reservoirs, seawater quickly evaporates under the relentless Moroccan sun, leaving the salt ready for collection. The presence of white flamingos enjoying the shallow pools adds to the charm of the scene.

 

Oualidia – Salt pans

The narrow, quiet coastal road takes us further south under a cloudless blue sky. The covered tomato plantations and cultivated fields often extend right up to the beach, where white foam continuously crashes against the shore. Occasionally, a small farm occupies some of the fertile land.

 

 

A high cliff coastline replaces the fertile land. Sheep wander tirelessly among the stones and rocks. As soon as the bus comes to a stop, a shy boy and girl approach, hoping to find something to collect – cookies, pens, soaps.

 

 

Once, Safi was one of the most important fishing ports in Morocco. This part of the ocean is considered one of the richest fishing grounds in the world, particularly known for its sardines, which brought in significant revenue. Since the 1920s, the canned goods industry has given a substantial boost to the local economy. An estimated 200 000 people depend on what the ocean provides. However, in recent years, fishing activities have shifted further south, likely due to the pollution from the phosphate industry. From a height, we watch as boats return from the open sea to the port of Safi.

Once, Safi was one of the most important fishing ports in Morocco

Safi – Fortification wall with gate

Safi – Pottery district

Through the narrow gate in the old fortress wall, driver Muhammad carefully drives his bus into the city. On a hill just behind the gate lies the ancient pottery district of Safi. Compared to the potters of Fez, they produce more decorative items here, says Aziz, but the quality is slightly lower. Here, they bake with fickle wood fires, while the gas ovens in Fez maintain a constant temperature.

On a hill just behind the gate lies the ancient pottery district of Safi

Tourneur at work		Ovens
Babouches

How gladly the moustached Majib, with his red cap, guides us through the neighbourhood. Hundreds of clay pieces lie drying on the streets and in the courtyards – small pots, jugs, little lamps, and especially many babouches, the typical wall holders for flowers shaped like slippers. Once dried, they will receive their colourful finish.

 

Painting atelier
		Tajines

Here and there, raw clay has been brought in, sometimes already stamped down with feet. In the small houses, tourneurs or turners are busy with their daily production of the same pieces over and over again. Double moulds are ready for yet another batch of babouches.

Higher up the hill, the tall, traditional ovens await new loads. Majib takes us to a workshop where the pieces are decorated in vibrant colours. The strong coloration is radical, free from any subtlety.

 

 

In the vicinity of the gate, dining is good and inexpensive. Then we descend further south. Along the way, dense clouds have gathered over the city. The fishmeal and fish canning factories in the suburbs stand deserted. A few dozen female workers are sitting on the street, striking for more rights.

 

Atlantic coast

The grimy installations of the gigantic phosphate factories are now making their appearance – it's hard to find a more symbolic sight. After the USA and Russia, Morocco is the third-largest exporter of phosphate in the world. Dust and smoke cloud the blue sky. Even the colour of the seawater has been affected. Over a distance of several kilometres, the azure water has turned brown, as algae thrive in the wastewater being discharged here. Fishermen have long abandoned this coast. Only the waves continue to crash against the rocks, but this protest from the sea has no effect.

Phosphate is a crucial source of income for Morocco, which holds an impressive 70 % of the world’s phosphate reserves

Phosphate factory

But there is also good news. The unique argan tree continues to thrive in Morocco. The country boasts approximately 550 000 hectares (1,36 million acres) of argan forests. What makes this tree unique is that it only grows in Morocco, and even then, only within a radius of about 200 kilometres around Agadir.

The roots of the argan tree reach deep, very deep. This is likely the reason why it remains green even after years of drought. Goats are fond of the fruits of the argan tree, which resemble oversized olives. Therefore, it is not unusual to see an argan tree full of goats, which is why it is also called the goat tree.

Since shepherds have noticed that tourists are thrilled by this scene and are willing to pay dirhams for a photo of an argan tree filled with goats, they sometimes lend a hand to the animals. They willingly drive a few goats up into the tree and tie them to the branches.

It is not unusual to see an argan tree full of goats, which is why it is also called the goat tree

But the story doesn’t end there. The pit of the fruit emerges from the goats' droppings intact, resembling a yellowish almond. From these pits, the famous argan oil is pressed, which is rich in vitamins but also quite expensive due to the labour-intensive production process. In its cosmetic form, the oil works excellently against various skin conditions, such as dry skin or wrinkles. The culinary version is similar to nut oil and is used as a dressing for cold dishes, for example.

It is still the women of the region who produce this oil manually. European NGOs export the final product. This remains a cumbersome process, but if they switch to mechanical production, these women will lose their jobs, according to Aziz.

Meanwhile, our quiet coastal road has gradually taken on the appearance of a rollercoaster ride. Skilfully, Muhammad drives his bus along the winding road, which is carved through rocky cliffs by rivers and ravines, while below, the waves crash against the cliffs at heights of 10 to 15 meters.

 

Essaouira – Beach

As early as around 1100 BCE, the Phoenicians visited the islands off the coast of Essaouira. During the Roman era, the Mauritanian kingdom of King Juba II produced purple dye there – hence the name Purple Islands. In this capacity, they were already noted by Pliny the Elder. Purple was an exclusive colour at that time; among the Romans, only the emperor, senators, and priests were allowed to wear it. Today, these islands are protected as bird reserves.

Starting in 1506, the Portuguese settled on the mainland here. Mogador, the name of the largest island, also became the name of the city. Once the Portuguese withdrew, pirates took up residence there.

This may explain why the city somewhat resembles the French town of Saint-Malo

It was not until 1764 that Sultan Sidi Muhammad Ben Abdallah decided to properly develop the fortress and the harbour. This was done under the guidance of Théodore Cornut, a student of Vauban. This may explain why the city somewhat resembles the French town of Saint-Malo. European sources claim that Cornut was a prisoner of the sultan all this time, while Moroccan sources dispute this.

 

Kitesurfer		Essaouira
Selling blood oranges		Kitesurfer

The waves crash incessantly with a heavy roar on the beach, driven by the brisk westerly wind. Amid the rolling foam, kitesurfers bravely manoeuver through the tumult. Wildly dancing above the water, the round kites tug fiercely at the lines. The surfers seem to have little control until they suddenly skim across the water at high speed – often no more than a few dozen meters.

Along the beachfront promenade, we stroll toward the fishing harbour. The waves pound against the quay, sometimes splashing seawater over the balustrade onto the roadway. No one seems to notice – under a blue sky and a shining sun, one can hardly call this stormy weather.

Most of the boats have not set out today due to the strong wind

Essaouira – Fishing port

Dozens of blue fishing boats bob high on the water in the fishing harbour. Most of the boats have not set out today due to the strong wind.

 

Essaouira – Iconic skyline

Seagull with prey

Through the Bab el Marsa, we approach the Place Moulay El Hassan. No image captures Essaouira better than this iconic skyline – the weathered fortress wall, the pale, peeling house façades with blue doors, the white foam rolling over the black rocky islets, the dark rain clouds setting a threatening tone, and above all, the hundreds of seagulls that scream as they dominate the airspace, swooping closely past our heads. They don't hesitate to let a little something drop while they fly by.

 

On the islands off the coast of Essaouira, the Mauritanian empire of King Juba II had purple produced during the Roman era

All evening, the wind from the west continues to bring in clouds. Just before eleven, it starts to rain heavily.

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Thursday, April 21 | Essaouira

Bundled up snugly, few walkers brave the chilly breeze coming from the west that buffets the beach this morning. Yet even now, kitesurfers hardly seem deterred. They are eagerly working to stay on their flimsy boards for more than just a few seconds.

 

Essaouira – Beach

It is already ten o'clock when a chilly Aziz shows up for a short city exploration. Trade winds, he mutters, looking at the ocean. From April to September, they rule here.

 

 

We make our way to the fishing harbour along the promenade. A wide sandy beach is exposed, as it is low tide. In the fishing harbour, the boats are floating significantly lower than they were last night. Normally, the small boats would set out for several hours today, while the larger ones would be out all day. But with such strong winds, it is too dangerous to be at sea.

A few boats are on the quay for maintenance. New boats are still built in the traditional way using eucalyptus wood

Essaouira – Fishing port

A few boats are on the quay for maintenance. New boats are still built in the traditional way using eucalyptus wood, according to Aziz. He points to a large boat – its total cost, including equipment, is about 600 000 euros.

 

 

As more and more black rain clouds gather above the city, we dive into the walled medina through the Bab el-Menzah. Immediately, the inevitable happens – thick raindrops begin to pour down on the city. Seagulls continue to circle undisturbed, while people rush to shops and arcades. Inside, the wood carving and inlay work for which Essaouira is famous come into our view. Skilled women demonstrate how the almond-like pits are peeled from the fruits of the argan tree.

 

Bab el-Menzeh

Women peeling fruits from argan tree

It was nothing more than a regrettable mistake of nature, that downpour. No more than a quarter of an hour later, a radiant sun casts its rays over the city once again. We continue strolling down the main street, the Avenue de l’Istiqlal, to explore the ancient medina, which has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2001. Through the Sqala de la Kasbah, we arrive in the vicinity of Bab Akoutom and the northern bastion, the Bastion Nord. About fifteen cannons bravely await an unspecified enemy on the fortress wall.

 

About fifteen cannons bravely await an unspecified enemy on the fortress wall

Through narrow alleyways, Aziz leads us further to Bab Moulay Youssef in the centre of the medina, thus concluding the visit. The planned visit to a small school falls through because only female teachers are present, and they do not want any male visitors.

 

Essaouira – Medina

In the museum of Sidi Muhammad Ben Abdallah, they are less picky about our gender. Enthusiastically, Abdul begins his story about his cultural-historical museum.

The claim that Théodore Cornut drew up the city plan of Essaouira is strongly disputed here

The building dates back to the 19th century and originally consisted of a central patio with a fountain and four rooms around it – a quintessential Moroccan riad. When the French took over the building, they found the fountain unappealing. So, the fountain was removed and replaced with a staircase. While that may be typical in a French house, according to Abdul, it is not so in a Moroccan house. You will never find a staircase in the middle of a Moroccan house.

 

 

An overwhelming number of pieces does not appear to be owned by the museum, but they are neatly displayed and well-documented. Roman amphorae from the Purple Islands dominate the ground floor. The claim that Théodore Cornut drew up the city plan of Essaouira is strongly disputed here. The true architect of Essaouira is Ahmed El Alej, although the Vauban concept of the city walls is readily acknowledged.

A wide variety of artefacts is displayed on the first floor. Old Korans sit side by side with Torahs and other Jewish items. Musical instruments, traditional costumes, and silverware share the space with all sorts of stabbing and shooting weapons.

 

Strawberry vendor

As one of the most important local crafts, the magnificent wood inlay work cannot be overlooked here. The raw material comes from the thuja tree, known as the tree of life. The branches are used for the coarser work, while only the roots are suitable for the finer details.

Moreover, two related but very different techniques are distinguished here. Marquetry should be seen as a form of overlay work in which the wooden base layer disappears under a mosaic of precious woods. Incrustation, on the other hand, involves the effective embedding of pieces of acacia, lemon wood, metal, mother-of-pearl and even ivory into thuja.

 

Wood inlay work

From the museum to a workshop where thuja is processed is just a step away – the arcade shops are full of it. The cooperative Tamounte d’art du bois de Thuya in the covered Rue Sous has an overwhelming selection available.

 

Dozens of eateries have displayed their fresh supply of fish and shellfish, resembling an encyclopaedia of marine life

 

We stroll back to the fishing port through the narrow alleyways. Dozens of eateries have displayed their fresh supply of fish and shellfish, resembling an encyclopaedia of marine life. For now, we can resist the temptation.

 

Mogador Island

From the high Sqala du Port, we look down on the fish market and the fishing port. Even in this clear weather, the waves crash with unprecedented force against the rocky islets and the city wall. Often, the white foam sprays up to curtains 10 to 15 meters high – higher even than the tower of the fortress on the island of Mogador in the distance. The hundreds of seagulls remain unfazed. Majestically, they soar above the natural fury, resting undisturbed on the rocks.

 

Chrib Atay Square

On the picturesque Chrib Atay Square, we treat ourselves to a weekday Moroccan menu – thick fish soup, a few skewers, and almond cookies.

 

 

The medina continues to surprise with its narrow alleyways, picturesque corners, artisanal shops, and imposing city walls that are never far away. We make our way through the Bab el Bakar to the Jewish mellah in the northeast corner of the medina. Once, half of Essaouira's population was Jewish – nowhere in Morocco was their relative proportion greater. Nowadays, most Jews have sought other horizons. Beautiful pediments above the doors, glazed tiles, and covered passageways testify to that not-so-distant past.

 

 

Unavoidably, our steps lead us to the souk Jedid – the market for vegetables, fruits, spices, meat, and fish in the heart of the medina. The atmosphere is friendly, and it’s not very crowded at this hour. The rich variety of fish and shellfish does not surprise us, with one exception. A thin fish, measuring over two meters long, proves to be very popular here – almost every vendor has it for sale. It is the bandfish, a ray-finned fish that can weigh up to 8 kg.

 

Bandfishes

We stroll back to the hotel along the beach promenade. It is high tide again, and the waves crash against the railing, flooding the pavement with seawater. Yet, undeterred boys bravely swim against the forces of nature, bobbing like helpless corks, laughing as they ride the waves.

 

 

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Jaak Palmans
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