Not just an ordinary village

Morocco | Anno 2011

 

Monday, April 11 | Marrakesh – High Atlas – Aït Benhaddou – Ouarzazate

Tuesday, April 12 | Ouarzazate – Anti-Atlas – Agdz

 

 

Monday, April 11 | Marrakesh – High Atlas – Aït Benhaddou – Ouarzazate

When talking about the many names of Marrakesh, our guide Aziz becomes lyrical. The City of Four Colours, they sometimes call it – ochre, white, blue, and green. Or the Pink Gate of the South. Or the City of the Seven Saints. Last night, upon our arrival, Aziz even took a small detour just to give us a distant view of the world-famous Djemaa el-Fna, the beating heart of Marrakesh. The square was buzzing with activity, as it always is every evening, he confidently remarked.

A loop of over 2 500 km will take us through Morocco – across mountains, past deserts, through royal cities, and along the ocean

But for now, that’s where it ends for us. At the break of dawn, we head south, leaving Marrakesh behind. A loop of over 2 500 km will take us through Morocco – across mountains, past deserts, through royal cities, and along the ocean. For two weeks, Aziz will be our guide and our trusted companion. His fluent Dutch is no surprise; he lived and worked in the Netherlands for five years. Since returning to Morocco, he has worked as a guide and hopes to continue until he can retire in a few years.

 

Olive groves

Under a radiant blue sky, we move upstream along the Oued Zat into the High Atlas. It's a formidable backbone, 800 km long and 100 km wide, cutting right through the heart of Morocco. With fifty mountains higher than 3 500 meters, and ten even taller than 4 000 meters, the High Atlas leaves all other mountain ranges in the country in the dust. Djebel Toubkal is even the highest peak in North Africa – 4 165 meters high.

 

Kasbah

On both sides, the High Atlas is flanked by lesser ranges. To the north lies the Middle Atlas, which reaches no higher than 3 350 meters but contains a significant amount of limestone and phosphate. In fact, 70 % of the world's phosphate reserves are found in Morocco.

 

 

To the south stretches the volcanic Anti-Atlas. This is where the true Africa really begins. Contrary to what we might intuitively think, the geological fault line between the European and African plates isn't under the Mediterranean Sea or the Strait of Gibraltar, but rather between the High Atlas and the Anti-Atlas. This makes the High Atlas somewhat of a European mountain range. Naturally, the earth occasionally trembles along this fault line.

 

 

All the way in the north, there's the Rif Mountains. This crescent-shaped continuation of the so-called Baetic Mountains in Spain stretches for 450 km along the Mediterranean Sea, with peaks reaching up to 3 450 meters.

 

Meanwhile, the first snow-capped peaks have appeared in the distance

Meanwhile, the first snow-capped peaks have appeared in the distance. Here and there, cacti grow on the green slopes. In some places, cactus plantations have even replaced traditional crops. This is due to a Canadian company that buys the cactus oil for a thousand euros per litre. As for what the oil is used for, Aziz can only guess.

 

 

Morocco covers an area of over 710 000 km², according to Aziz. However, he readily admits that he is very obediently including the occupied Western Sahara. That rocky desert region has been claiming its independence from Morocco for decades, without much success. If you exclude Western Sahara, Morocco's area is 446 000 km² - slightly smaller than France. The capital, Rabat, has a population of two million.

 

The presence of Berbers in Morocco was already established before the arrival of the Phoenicians around 1100 BCE

Berbers make up about 60 % of Morocco's population. Where the Berbers originally came from is unknown, even to Aziz. What is certain is that their presence in Morocco was already established before the arrival of the Phoenicians around 1100 BCE. All Berbers speak the same language, but they are by no means a homogeneous group. In the north, the Riffians hold sway, in the centre it's the Beraber, and here in the south, the Chleuhs dominate.

 

 

The official language of Morocco is Arabic, and the second language is French. However, you won’t hear much Arabic on the streets; everyone speaks Berber or Moroccan Arabic – a local variant of Arabic. After the Berbers, Arabs are the second largest ethnic group. As early as 683, the first Arab military force made its way into Morocco, sparking the ethnic divide that still grips the country today.

Nowadays, Arabs mostly occupy the higher social positions, while Berbers are often found lower on the social ladder

Nowadays, Arabs mostly occupy the higher social positions, while Berbers are often found lower on the social ladder. In our small group, however, the hierarchy is reversed – our driver Muhammad and guide Aziz are Berbers, while the jack-of-all-trades Achmed is Arab.

 

 

The third ethnic group is the Jews. For centuries, they played a significant role in Morocco, but their position completely eroded in the aftermath of the Six-Day War in 1967. The Jewish quarters in cities are called Mellah, which literally means the district where salt is sold.

 

 

Then there are the Black Africans, mainly living in the south, who are descendants of slaves from sub-Saharan Africa. Additionally, there is a small number of Christians. When you add it all up, the population totals 33 million. Remarkably, 52 % of the population is under the age of 17, while only 4 % is over 60 years old.

Remarkably, 52 % of the population is under the age of 17, while only 4 % is over 60 years old

High Atlas

Meanwhile, we steadily climb alongside the muddy brown Oued Tichka through the fabulous landscape. The wide asphalt of the N9 is impeccable. For centuries, this has been one of the few passages through the Atlas Mountains. In the past, it was an important caravan route that connected Marrakesh to the network of trans-Saharan trade.

 

For centuries, this has been one of the few passages through the Atlas Mountains

Against the mountain slopes cling villages with the inevitable square minaret. The landscape grows increasingly bare and inhospitable. Steep rocky cliffs tower high above us, while small green plots and a handful of houses at the valley's bottom remind us that even here, people manage to thrive. This is evident in the area around Taddert, where oleander bushes and yellow flowers flourish.

 

High Atlas

A little knowledge of Moroccan Arabic is always a bonus, Aziz reminds us. Starting with a friendly greeting – good morning is pronounced sbah l-gheer in Moroccan. To say thank you, you use shukran, and to say no, it’s simply la. So, la shukran is a polite way to say no. This will prove useful later when we reach the top of the pass and are besieged by crafty sellers.

Tall yellow and red poles mark the edges of the road as we begin the final ascent. This is no luxury when winter snow covers these bare rocks.

 

High Atlas – Tichka Pass

At 2 260 meters, the Tichka Pass is the highest point of our journey. As far as the eye can see, barren slopes with a dotted pattern of round grass tufts stretch out beneath the cloudless sky. Waterfalls carry melting snow over the brown rocks. Sheep scavenge in a long line over the sterile stones in search of edible shoots.

It’s a hard and difficult life, but there’s no alternative

A little bit of agriculture and some livestock farming is how people here make a living, Aziz explains as we descend along the southern slope into the valley. The men work in the cities, with some even migrating abroad. The women stay behind in the village, taking care of the children, the elderly, the animals, and the work in the fields. It’s a hard and difficult life, but there’s no alternative.

 

 

Water supply has always been a major issue. However, electricity is available everywhere, along with schools and telephone services. Aziz claims without hesitation that Morocco has some of the best telephone services in the world. Even in the most remote areas, you can get a signal. This is due to the fierce competition among Moroccan, Spanish, and French telephone companies.

 

 

Desert landscapes with low hills and table mountains now take over from the high mountains. Here and there, an oasis pops up.

In fact, Ait-Ben-Haddou is not just an ordinary village; it is a ksar, a fortified village where members of one large family lived together

Ait-Ben-Haddou – Agadir and Ksar

Then driver Muhammad abandons the N9 and turns the steering wheel eastward. We set course for Ait-Ben-Haddou through a desolate desert landscape. Once, a certain Haddou was in charge of this region. A friend of Haddou's son had his place here, which is how the village got its name – Ait-Ben-Haddou, meaning friend of a son of Haddou.

This fortress once held a key position along the trade route connecting Marrakesh to the Sahara

Ait-Ben-Haddou – Gateway

Since 1987, this site has been part of the World Heritage list, with UNESCO financing its restoration. Muhammad, a local guide, will lead us through the site. Not that he wouldn't be able to do it himself, Aziz assures us, but for groups of twenty or more you are obliged to take a local guide. Reports say that the police strictly enforce this rule. Driver Muhammad finds it a bit chilly today – barely 30 °C (86 °F) – so he's taken the precaution of wearing a sweater.

We descend through the village to the banks of the Asif Mellah. The earthen buildings against the bare hillside across the river create a formidable backdrop. The film industry has certainly taken notice of this. Quite a few directors have set up their cameras here. Guide Muhammad even boasts about having played several extra roles, particularly in The Jewel of the Nile (1985), Gladiator (2000), and the very recent Prince of Persia: The Sands of Time (2010).

 

Kasbah with four corner towers

Storks

In fact, Ait-Ben-Haddou is not just an ordinary village; it is a ksar, a fortified village where members of one large family lived together. They spent six months of the year here, while the men took the livestock out to graze for the other six months. Meanwhile, slaves had to guard the grain and stay away from the women.

Today, this is practically the only ksar in Morocco that remains privately owned; all other ksour are in the hands of the government. Ksar is singular, while ksour is plural. Our Berber language is progressing rapidly. In practice, everyone lives on this side of the river, in the modern village of the same name. During high water, the other side is completely cut off from the inhabited world.

 

Only wealthy and powerful families were able to build and maintain such structures

Atop the hill stands the granary, surrounded by another wall. When enemies were at the gates, this agadir served as the last line of defence. Not all the gates of the ksar are original; Muhammad points out two very recent examples. One was constructed for Lawrence of Arabia (1962), and the other for The Jewel of the Nile (1985). All the other buildings are original and date back to the 13th century.

 

Within the walls of the ksar are six kasbahs

Within the walls of the ksar are six kasbahs. These are impressive multi-story earthen buildings, each with a powerful tower at every corner. Inside, there is always a patio, and the outer walls are adorned with rich decorations.

 

Corner tower

Mellah means salt, and the Asif Mellah is indeed a salty little river. This is due to a nearby salt mine. Aside from growing a bit of alfalfa for livestock, not much else can be done in this valley. In the past, fresh water had to be fetched from kilometres away using donkeys. However, this changed about four years ago, thanks to a Belgian irrigation project.

About twenty sandbags lie like stepping stones in the water, inviting us to cross the shallow, fast-flowing river. We reach the other side without incident, where Muhammad points out a pile of earthen bricks – clay mixed with straw and water – that are drying.

 

Door lock

Living space

For a few dirhams we are allowed to visit a house, the residence of a family with seven children. They have two kitchens, a traditional wood kitchen to make bread and couscous, and a more modern version with a gas fire. Linen is hung out to dry on the patio. Hidden behind a wall, solar panels are installed on the roof. Unesco does not want these modern conditions to disfigure the site.

 

Spinning wool

Muhammad leads us all the way up to the agadir or granary. At our feet lies the enchanting medieval fortified city, situated about 1 320 meters above sea level. This fortress once held a key position along the trade route connecting Marrakesh to the Sahara.

 

Valley of the Asif Mellah

Large square openings in the flat roofs provide the simple houses with light and fresh air – it hardly ever rains here. Across the salty river, we see the modern settlement surrounded by vibrant green fields, while to the east, the desolate stony desert stretches in a bizarre palette of ochre, orange, brown, pink, and purple all the way to the horizon. Amidst this wasteland, next to a tiny cemetery, stands the solitary grave of a marabout, a man revered as a kind of saint, a descendant of the Prophet Muhammad. Further along, there is an expansive, walled Jewish cemetery.

 

Tomb of a marabout

In the east, the desolate stony desert stretches in a bizarre palette of ochre, orange, brown, pink, and purple all the way to the horizon

 

We make our way through the valley of the Asif Mellah to rejoin the N9. White patches indicate salt that has been pushed to the surface by rainwater. Impressive folds in the rock formations across the river catch our attention, with some almost vertical against the horizon.

 

 

A kasbah was essentially little less than a castle, Aziz explains. Only wealthy and powerful families were able to build and maintain such structures. Typically, they also provided the local pasha. Nowadays, most kasbahs are abandoned because their maintenance has become unaffordable.

 

 

One of those local potentates was El Glaoui, essentially a local governor who collaborated with the French during the colonial period. After Morocco gained independence in 1956, this collaboration came at a steep price for him. All his possessions were confiscated – and there were quite a few. Among them was the kasbah of Taourirt, which we will visit shortly in Ouarzazate, one of the largest and most beautiful kasbahs in the country. However, the government did nothing with this acquisition, and the building was left to its fate. It wasn’t until UNESCO once again appeared as a saving angel to take care of the restoration. The fact that the Moroccan government had since seen potential in the kasbah’s tourist appeal also helped matters.

 

 

Strategically located at the confluence of the Dra and Dades rivers, Ouarzazate was established in 1928 as a garrison town for the French Foreign Legion. To this day, the military presence is still evident. However, the city now owes its international fame primarily to the presence of four major film studios. It is often referred to as the Hollywood of Morocco.

Ouarzazate is often referred to as the Hollywood of Morocco

The CLA Studios are the first to pass by our window. These are the largest studios in the world – by area, that is, since a few square kilometres more or less don't make much difference in the desert. Further along, we pass the Atlas Studios, which proudly claim to be the oldest in Morocco. At the large traffic junction close to the city, this is further emphasised with gigantic film reels adorning the roundabout.

 

Kasbah of Taourirt

Just after five, we arrive at the famous kasbah of Taourirt. The pristine, richly decorated façade suggests something special inside. Sakri welcomes us into the courtyard while one of Herr Krupp’s cannons stands watch over us in the background. French sentences rush out of Sakri’s mouth at breakneck speed. With some effort, we understand that the kasbah was declared a World Heritage site in 1987 and is currently being restored by UNESCO.

In the past, the local pasha ruled over an area roughly the size of Belgium. Politically, the pasha could count on the support of both the local tribes and the French colonial government. He had nothing to fear from Sultan Muhammad V – it was at his suggestion that the Sultan was sent into exile in Madagascar by the French in 1953.

 

Kasbah of Taourirt

The building dates back to the 18th century and, once again, is entirely constructed from adobe. Maintenance is also a delicate issue here. In addition to the family quarters, the kasbah includes administrative buildings and even a mellah, a complete district where Jews lived for centuries. However, in the aftermath of the Six-Day War, the Jews decided to leave the region.

The iconic image of a church and a mosque, standing side by side in the city centre, frequently appears in religious-themed films

All the rooms appear to be empty, including the room for women and children, which has a ceiling made of palm wood, bamboo, and tamarind. Through the window, Sakri points out a church and a mosque, standing side by side in the city centre. This iconic image frequently appears in religious-themed films.

 

Kasbah of Taourirt

Next to it are the former Andromeda Studios, now converted into a museum. Film studios feel at home here, not so much because Ouarzazate literally means without sound, jokes Sakri. It's the stunning lighting conditions and the magnificent landscapes that make the city irresistible.

The pasha had as many as 500 harem girls, spread over kasbahs in various cities. A courtier kept the catalogue

On the top floor of the kasbah, we find ourselves in a breezy tea salon. A light breeze flows through the open windows. This is where the pasha used to entertain himself, with or without his wives. He had a stock of up to 500 harem girls across various kasbahs in different cities. A real catalogue was used for this, in which a courtier meticulously recorded each girl's qualities and specific skills, allowing the pasha to choose the entertainment that best suited his mood after a long day at work, just like selecting from a menu.

 

 

Mechanically Sakri continues to recite his texts, and if necessary we are given the same refrain two or three times on simple request. This invariably ends with Maintenant nous allons jeter un regard sur..., after which we are ushered into the next empty room.

Not that they are not beautiful rooms. In what Sakri calls the best room, painted plasterwork reaches high up against the walls and the cedar ceiling is beautifully decorated. This also applies to the pasha's office, although the drawings there are somewhat less refined.

 

 

Conveniently, the pasha also had a prayer room set up in his kasbah. It saves a considerable amount of time if the staff doesn’t have to go to the mosque constantly to pray.

When it got a bit colder, the pasha could retreat to the winter room, where two fires could be lit. Scenes from the thriller Rules of Engagement (2000) were filmed here, but Sakri cannot explain what the mysterious symbol on the wall means.

 

 

What took place in the adjacent shower room is quite clear. Black slaves scrubbed the backs and limbs of harem girls before they presented themselves to the pasha. Sakri reluctantly admits, after some pressing, that this job was indeed reserved for eunuchs. So we can rest assured – there was only scrubbing happening in those showers.

It's half-past six when chauffeur Muhammad drops us off at the hotel, just a stone's throw from the kasbah. As is typical for a Moroccan riad, there are no windows or decorations on the outer walls, and the architecture is entirely inward-facing. All the rooms are built around a lush patio with tall palm and orange trees.

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Tuesday, April 12 | Ouarzazate – Anti-Atlas – Agdz

Today, the valleys of the Draa and Dadès rivers are on the agenda. Aziz appears in a beautiful blue gandora – the male counterpart to the kaftan, which is worn only by women in Morocco.

 

Anti-Atlas

Under a flawless blue sky, we quickly leave the city just after eight, heading towards the low sun that is just rising above the horizon. Gradually, we penetrate the Anti-Atlas, the oldest and also the driest of the four mountain ranges. Stunning landscapes of volcanic origin await us.

 

Stunning landscapes of volcanic origin await us

Anti-Atlas

Meanwhile, Aziz picks up the thread of his engaging discourses where he left off yesterday. It was only with the arrival of the Arabs in the 7th century that Islam was introduced to Morocco. The majority of the population are Berbers, with Muslims forming a minority. While Berbers are also Muslims, only the Arabs are referred to as Muslims.

 

Anti-Atlas

Religion poses no problem in Morocco, according to Aziz, as the constitution guarantees freedom of religion. Briefly, he outlines the five pillars of Islam for us. First is the shahada, the declaration of faith, which consists of regularly reciting, There is no god but Allah, and Muhammad is His prophet – in Arabic, of course. Next is the salat, the prayer, which is performed five times a day, facing Mecca. A muezzin is always there to remind you of the prayer times from his minaret. The zakat involves giving enough alms – between 2,5 % and 10 % of your wealth, as Aziz specifies. During Ramadan, one must observe the sawm, or fasting, refraining from eating, drinking, smoking, and sexual relations from sunrise to sunset. Finally, every healthy person with the sufficient resources is required to undertake the hajj, the pilgrimage to Mecca, at least once in their lifetime.

 

Anti-Atlas

According to the Quran, these principles are clear. However, in practice, Moroccans sometimes take liberties with them. Unlike in other Islamic countries, Moroccans are not particularly devout, especially the youth, who tend to neglect these practices in large numbers.

 

Anti-Atlas

The sign announcing the province of Zagora prompts Aziz to shift to more worldly observations. At the head of each of the 72 provinces is a governor appointed directly by the king. Al-Mamlakah al-Maghribiyah, the Kingdom of Morocco, is a constitutional monarchy where King Muhammad VI has ruled since 1999 – Aziz doesn’t hide his enthusiasm for the monarch. His father, Hassan II, ruled the country with an iron fist for nearly 40 years, while his grandfather, Muhammad V, had conflicts with the French colonizers, which led to his long exile in Madagascar. The royal family – the king, his wife Lalla Salma, Crown Prince Hassan, and daughter Khadija – has its official residence in the capital, Rabat.

Unlike in other Islamic countries, Moroccans are not particularly devout, especially the youth, who tend to neglect these practices in large numbers

Two-thirds of the 325 members of parliament are elected by the people, while one-third is appointed by the municipal councils. Once elected, they serve for five years. In the Senate, the term is even nine years. There are as many as 36 political parties vying for power, but only about six of them are truly significant.

 

Stone desert

A stony desert unfolds to the horizon, interspersed with rock masses and crumpled mountain ridges. We drive through Ait Saoun. Our long experience in Morocco immediately leads us to guess that this means friend of Saoun.

Like a pale ribbon, the N9 winds its way up along the bare rocks. In the last bend above the plain we get a view of the pale pink village in the brown plain. A man tries to steal the show with his chameleons, hoping to extract a few dirhams from us. Picking up stones with bare hands is definitely not a good idea here – there could well be a scorpion or a snake hiding underneath.

 

The air is hazy, the peaks are bare, and the slopes are covered with stones. A deep gorge bears witness to the water that seeks its way here after rare rain showers

At exactly nine o'clock, we reach the Djebel Tifernine, which at 1 660 meters is the highest point of the day. The air is hazy, the peaks are bare, and the slopes are covered with stones. A deep gorge bears witness to the water that seeks its way here after rare rain showers.

On the descent, Aziz gives us a good walk to stretch our legs, but above all to take in the breathtaking volcanic landscape, with its bizarre folds, deep ravines, steep rocks, and relentless dryness. Only at the bottom of the gorges, where water occasionally churns, can some plants manage to survive.

 

 

Green mountains indicate the presence of copper, Aziz adds. Besides phosphate, Morocco mainly mines zinc, copper, lead, iron, and silver, and even a little gold.

In the distant past, a French airplane supposedly crashed in this inhospitable area. To attract the attention of other planes, the stranded pilots laid out the registration letters of their aircraft with stones against the mountainside – AGDZ. Just like that, the nearby settlement at the foot of the 1 531-meter-high Djebel Kissane was stuck with its unpronounceable name.

 

Palm oasis

To give us a view of the upper reaches of the Draa River, Muhammad immediately drives up a small hill in the centre of Agdz. From there, we look down on the vast palm oasis, or palmerie, as Aziz likes to call it. The dense greenery contrasts with the surrounding barren landscape, stretching out as a lush ribbon of life through the dry, rugged terrain.

 

Agdz

With a length of over 1 100 km, the Draa boasts the longest riverbed in Morocco. However, most of it remains dry for the majority of the year, with only the 200 km stretch of the upper course containing water. In the fertile zone between Agdz and Zagora, there are about six stunning palm oases, dotted with magnificent kasbahs and ksour. Unfortunately for us, those gems are beyond our reach, as we need to retrace our steps.

 

Former prison

As a bargaining chip, Aziz has a prison in store for us. Like many Moroccan cities, Agdz also had one of those infamous secret prisons where political prisoners were held. These were ultra-secret affairs, and no one knew what went on behind those walls. If the gates ever opened, it was often in the dead of night, perhaps to secretly bury one of the prisoners. Thousands of political detainees disappeared in this manner, never to be heard from again.

 

 

But King Muhammad VI put an end to that infamous situation a few years ago, Aziz quickly adds. There is now freedom of the press and freedom of expression. The Arab Spring hadn't even begun when King Muhammad VI had already fulfilled all the aspirations of his people. Hence the peace in Morocco, in contrast to the turmoil elsewhere in North Africa. It's clear that Muhammad VI is highly respected.

We stop in front of an abandoned kasbah. Even the local residents, according to Aziz, had no idea what took place behind these grim walls in the past. The brown gate is closed, but through the cracks, you can glimpse the large courtyard with ominous little rooms lining its perimeter. Across the street lies the cemetery, with the modest tomb of a marabout rising above the graves.

The pasha sent a soldier to investigate, but the soldier returned with bad news: the woman was married

There is a story that El Glaoui, the collaborationist pasha, from atop a tower in his kasbah, caught sight of a beautiful woman on the street. He sent a soldier to investigate, but the soldier returned with bad news: the woman was married. El Glaoui, however, wasn't one to be easily discouraged. The woman's husband was summoned and politely asked to sign divorce papers, which he refused. Unwilling to pursue a relationship with a married woman, the pasha had the husband's throat slit. But before El Glaoui could claim his prize, the woman had committed suicide. Her unfortunate husband was posthumously revered as a saintly marabout and is buried in this tomb.

 

 

This is the southernmost point of our journey. As Muhammad steers the car northward, Aziz takes us back into ancient history, searching for the origins of the current ethnic dynamics in Morocco.

Berbers have always been present in Morocco. Starting in 1100 BCE, they saw the arrival of the Phoenicians, then the Romans in 146 BCE, Jews in 70 CE, the Vandals in 415, and finally the Arabs in 683. All these uninvited guests have turned Morocco into a land of contrasts.

All these uninvited guests have turned Morocco into a land of contrasts

Where the Berbers originally came from remains unknown, but they are known as an adaptable people, says Aziz. They adopted Judaism with the Jews, Christianity with the Christians, and Islam with the Arabs – though the latter was imposed on them, as Aziz admits.

It was a man named Idriss who, in 788, first succeeded in uniting Morocco under one authority. A descendant of the Prophet Muhammad, Idriss had run into trouble with the Caliph of Baghdad and fled to Morocco. Once there, this Arab managed to win the trust of the Berbers – adaptable people, after all – and married the daughter of one of their leaders. He conquered the northern part of what is now Morocco, broke away from the Baghdad Caliphate, founded the city of Fez, and took the title Moulay Idriss or Lord Idriss. He eagerly began to spread Islam, when necessary by the sword.

Since then, Arab dominance over Morocco has been a fact, even though Berbers never fully embraced Islam and their language has no relation to Arabic. Throughout history, the Berbers have been oppressed by the Arabs.

 

The French divided their colony into two distinct regions: le Maroc utile, rich in resources, and le Maroc inutile

When it came to oppression, the French were no strangers to the practice either, explains Aziz. They divided their colony into two distinct regions: le Maroc utile or the useful Morocco, rich in resources, and le Maroc inutile or the useless Morocco, inhabited by Berbers but lacking in natural wealth. The northern, resource-rich region was developed, while the southern, useless region was largely neglected.

After Morocco gained independence in 1956, Kings Muhammad V and Hassan II continued this colonial approach. Hassan II, in particular, was despised in the south. Berbers frequently rebelled against his rule. The letter Z, still visible on some walls, became their symbol of freedom.

However, things began to change under King Muhammad VI, who, once again, showed a willingness to listen to the Berbers' grievances. The Berber language was officially recognised, and infrastructure projects, like the smooth asphalt of the N9 highway, transformed the southern region. Just six years ago, this same road was little more than a dirt track, barely wide enough for two cars to pass.

While Arabs continue to dominate Morocco's intellectual, political, and social elite, the Berbers hold much of the country’s financial wealth. Despite this, the relationship between the Berbers and Arabs in Morocco is far from one of great affection. For Berbers, a word is a word – a promise is kept. An Arab, on the other hand – Aziz searches in vain for a veiled term – is actually not to be trusted.

The letter Z, still visible on some walls, became their symbol of freedom

 

In a barren landscape where not a single blade of grass seems to grow, a shepherd tends to his herd of goats by the roadside. The nomadic Berbers of this region spend about six months down in the valley, but once the dry season sets in, they move their herds into the mountains. Aside from herding, they sustain themselves by weaving Berber carpets and crafting silver jewellery. Their population is estimated at around 40 000.

These Berbers are extremely conservative. They only visit towns when they need something they cannot produce themselves, such as sugar or tea. They are not registered, lack identity cards, and do not send their children to school. Their tents are never seen near roads, and they have no interest in tourists – those who try to take photographs risk being pelted with stones.

The government has attempted to exert more control over the nomadic Berbers, but without success

The government has attempted to exert more control over them, but without success. Entire villages have been built to house the nomads free of charge, but they have no desire for a permanent home. Additionally, around 2 000 wells have been dug in the deserts to provide water for their animals.

Upon returning to Ouarzazate, we settle in a large nomad tent, where we are treated to a meal of keftas or lamb meatballs, beef skewers, and a dessert of orange slices with cinnamon. Tall oleander bushes bloom beautifully in the garden.

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Jaak Palmans
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