Running for your life is not enough

Kenya | Anno 2009

 

Wednesday 22 July | Namanga – Amboseli National Park

Thursday 23 July | Amboseli National Park

Friday 24 July | Amboseli National Park – Nairobi

 

 

Wednesday 22 July | Namanga – Amboseli National Park

If you want to see elephants in Kenya, Amboseli is the place to be. The large elephant population is the second most important attraction of this national park. Even more impressive is the proximity of Mount Kilimanjaro. Wherever you are in the park, this majestic volcano dominates the horizon – unless it's hidden behind the clouds, of course. If you see a photo of elephants in the savannah with Kilimanjaro in the background, it’s almost certainly taken in Amboseli.

The large elephant population is the second most important attraction of Amboseli

Our expectations are high as we leave the Namanga border post behind. But Amboseli is not the destination our driver-guides Robert and Felix have in mind. They bypass the turnoff to the C103 and stubbornly follow the A104 north towards Nairobi. Is our road trip ending prematurely? Not at all, the explanation is not long in coming: they drop us off at the doorstep of Namanga Curio Shop, yet another souvenir stop.

 

Namanga Curio Shop – Wood carving

African massage. Robert describes our experience as we set off on the poorly maintained C103. The charming fellow with mischievous twinkling eyes belongs to the Kamba tribe, while Felix is Masai. For nearly an hour, they drive their Toyota Land Cruisers at 70 kilometres per hour over the relentless transverse ridges in the unpaved road. Throughout this time, the noise in the cabin is deafening. Sometimes, the road is so bad that new tracks have formed on the left and right beside the road.

 

 

Outside, there isn’t much happening for now. Just one dik-dik, one Masai giraffe, one ostrich, and one impala are spotted in the desolate landscape. Shortly after five o'clock, we arrive at Meshanani Gate, the northern entrance to Amboseli National Park. Covering an area of 392 km², it’s relatively small – slightly larger than the island of Malta. Nevertheless, since its establishment in 1974, it has been quite popular among safari tourists. Its easy accessibility from the capital, Nairobi, likely contributes to its popularity.

As he gathers his paperwork, Robert casually shares some statistics about the park – an average elevation of 1,200 meters, 56 species of mammals, and 378 species of birds. Meanwhile, several Masai women crowd around the windows of the jeeps, eager to showcase their goods. You can’t accuse them of lacking motivation; as long as we remain stationary, they refuse to budge.

 

Grant’s gazelles

Hyena

Four Grant's gazelles greet us as we continue on our way. They are the larger cousins of the Thomson's gazelles, which explains their name. Because grant is not the name of the person they are named after – like for example the Grévy's zebra or the Thomson's gazelle – but a corruption of grand gazelle, according to Robert. However, we aren't quite sure where to place Grant’s zebra, as it happens to be one of the smaller zebra species.

It’s feasting on the tallest leaves of a bush in a way that only gerenuks can

Gerenuk in characteristic pose

From one surprise, we fall into another. Three gerenuks pop up between the bushes. One is munching on the highest leaves of a shrub in a way that only gerenuks can – standing upright on its hind legs, with its front legs supporting itself on the branches of the bush. Aren't these gerenuks part of the so-called Samburu Five, the five animal species that can only be seen in Samburu National Reserve?

 

Gerenuk

We don't even notice driving along the shore of Lake Amboseli as the lake is empty. In the 1980s, the lake dried up; nowadays, you only find water here during the long rains. The plain becomes increasingly barren, the landscape more desolate. There is hardly any vegetation. Even the volcanic surroundings of Ngorongoro didn’t look so barren. Every movement of the jeeps is accompanied by large clouds of dust – Amboseli means dusty place for good reason. On the southern horizon, the blue-grey silhouette of the westernmost foothills of Kilimanjaro is visible. But we don't see anything of its top.

We don't even notice driving along the shore of Lake Amboseli

Warthog family

Grey crowned cranes

A pair of warthogs trots across the barren plain with their three little ones. The strange smells and sounds of the jeep make them nervous; they are not at ease. A few beautiful grey crowned cranes remain unfazed, continuing to peck at the ground with determination. Apparently, there's still something edible to be found there.

A spotted hyena, back arched, crouching on its hind legs, sits motionless as it relieves itself. They have the strongest jaws of all carnivores, according to Robert. The hyena society is matriarchal, with females leading the packs.

 

Buffaloes

A lioness lies stretched out in the sand, a little way off the road. A pick-up truck ostentatiously positions itself right next to the animal, giving the VIPs on board some stunning close-ups. It’s clear that we’re in Kenya again. Such a scene wouldn’t be possible in Tanzania.

The swamp of Enkongo Narok is fed by underground water from Mount Kilimanjaro

The ground is rich in calcium, which makes the bones of the elephants stronger and their tusks longer than those of their counterparts elsewhere

 

The lake of Amboseli may be bone-dry, but Enkongo Narok is still thriving. This swamp is fed by underground water from Mount Kilimanjaro. And that's a good thing, because without such water sources, large mammals wouldn’t be able to survive here. An elephant is submerged up to its tusks in the water, eating the aquatic plants with its trunk. Further off, a hippo follows its example – but without the trunk. The ground here is rich in calcium, which makes the bones of the elephants stronger and their tusks longer than those of their counterparts elsewhere.

 

Hippo, wildebeest

Among the grazing zebras, a spotted hyena wanders, but they have no fear of the solitary predator. Gradually, the sun manages to break up the clouds. For a brief moment, the flat white summit of Kilimanjaro emerges faintly from the clouds.

 

Spotted hyena

It is half past six when we reach Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge, 1,120 meters above sea level.

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Thursday 23 July | Amboseli National Park

Stars twinkle in the open sky as we walk to breakfast. This fuels our hope that, soon, Kilimanjaro will dominate the blue horizon.

 

 

The safari leisurely gets underway from half past six. Initially, there isn't much to see in the desolate plain. In the dim light, we can make out a few hyenas. The red sun rises over dozens of grazing zebras and wildebeests. Slowly, the sky turns blue – except in the south, where low clouds stubbornly refuse to release their hold on Kilimanjaro.

 

The zebra probably died of starvation just last night, Felix thinks, as the carcass is intact

 

Every now and then, a gnawed carcass reminds us of the daily struggle for life and death, which in this harsh wilderness is possibly even more merciless than in the Serengeti – a dead wildebeest, a dead buffalo, a dead zebra. It wasn't predators that claimed their lives, but hunger and exhaustion, according to Felix.

 

Masai giraffe, herd of wildebeest

A solitary Masai giraffe strides across the plain. Six elephants cross our path. One of the females has lost a tusk. A young one, about six years old, accompanies her, already showing small tusks that started growing when it was four. Two older sons walk at the back – Felix estimates their age to be between 14 and 20 years. It won’t be long before their mother drives them away, ensuring no Oedipal situations arise. Only when they are around 35 will they start thinking about reproduction and looking for a mate.

You will never find a blacksmith plover more than flying distance from water

Blacksmith plover

Grey heron

In the vast swamp of Olokenya, hippos feel at home. Across the way lies the carcass of a dead elephant. Three blacksmith plovers forage in the grass. You will never find these birds more than flying distance from water.

 

Olokenya Swamp – Elephants and cattle egrets

Close to the road lies a dead zebra. The animal probably died of starvation just last night, Felix thinks, as the carcass is intact. Throughout the day, that will change quickly. As it warms up, vultures will take advantage of the rising warm air and scout the surroundings from high above. Soon, they will spot the fresh carcass and descend upon it. This, in turn, will not escape the attention of the hyenas. They will arrive at the carcass and chase off the vultures. This carcass won’t have time to rot.

 

Marabou stork

Zebra carcass

In a puddle at the edge of the swamp, a blue heron, a sacred ibis, and a great egret are foraging. Further along, two reedbucks have settled in the grass. It's not surprising to find reedbucks here, given their preference for marshy grasslands. Once again, there lies a zebra carcass along the road. Although it is completely picked clean, Felix is convinced that it is a recent kill.

The cheetah is the fastest land animal in the world – a sprint of 110 kilometres per hour is well within its capabilities

Cheetah

Self-assured, a cheetah strides across the open plain in search of breakfast. This is the fastest land animal in the world – a sprint of 110 kilometres per hour is well within its capabilities. However, it can only maintain that speed for about two hundred meters without overheating. Therefore, it has roughly ten seconds to catch its prey. It will only go for the kill once it is certain of its chance, meaning it approaches its target stealthily until it is within 30 to 40 meters.

 

Cheetah

Inexperienced as they are, the very young Grant’s gazelles stand with their backs turned to the cheetah

There is hardly any vegetation that could conceal potential prey from the cheetah’s keen eye. Two wildebeests attract its special attention, but they quickly become aware of the predator. Immediately, they take off, even though these large antelopes have nothing to fear from the much smaller cheetah.

Next, a small Grant's gazelle comes into view. That seems like a feasible target, but the hyper-alert gazelle has already made its escape before the cheetah even can blink.

Across the road, two very young Grant's gazelles are blissfully unaware of the danger. Inexperienced as they are, they stand with their backs turned to the cheetah. With its head held high, just above the grass, the cheetah focuses intently on its prey. Self-assured yet extremely cautious, it stalks the unsuspecting gazelles, its head appearing to float above the blades of grass. It moves closer and closer, its pace quickening. Still, the gazelles remain oblivious to the threat.

Apparently, the Grant’s gazelle has never learned that it can only escape a cheetah by making sudden, sharp turns

Cautiously, the cheetah stalks its prey

Like an arrow shot from a bow, the sleek body of the cheetah suddenly bursts forth from the grass. Startled, the gazelles scatter in different directions. It is clear that the cheetah has focused on the left gazelle from the start. Running in a wide arc, it tries to escape, but this proves to be a fatal mistake, as it allows the cheetah to effortlessly maintain its top speed. Apparently, the gazelle has never learned – and will never get the chance to learn – that it can only escape a cheetah by making sudden, sharp turns. It runs for its life, but that is not enough.

The gazelle runs for its life, but that is not enough

 

Second after second, the cheetah closes the gap. Then it makes its decisive leap after a sprint of about 120 meters. Both animals disappear into a large cloud of dust. The outcome is settled, but it’s only when the dust begins to settle that we can confirm the result – the lifeless legs of the gazelle stick up above the grass. A jackal hastens to the scene of the crime. There might be some scraps left for him to scavenge, who knows.

 

Olokenya swamp – Buffaloes and cattle egrets

Egyptian geese

African jacana

Buffalo, cattle egret

On the banks of the Enkongo Narok swamp, things are a bit more peaceful. Elephants and buffaloes wade through the marsh grass, grazing. An African jacana appears to walk on water – hence its nickname, the Jesus bird. Meanwhile, the Nile geese get their name from their eyes, which resemble the makeup of women in ancient Egypt. Reedbucks are also present again, and even a beautiful saddle-billed stork makes an appearance.

 

Elephants, cattle egrets

Vultures feast on a series of carcasses – two wildebeests and two zebras. More than in other parts of Kenya, death seems to be a daily occurrence in Amboseli.

 

Vultures at wildebeest carcass

Vultures at zebra carcass

Three adult spotted hyenas and a black cub are nearby their den. Felix estimates the cub to be around two to three months old. As a sort of greeting, the adults lick the cub one by one. It will stay with its mother until it is eighteen months old, receiving plenty of calcium from her milk. This is particularly useful when it comes to breaking and devouring bones – one of the favourite pastimes of an adult hyena.

 

A baby hippopotamus, less than a week old, stands grazing on the water's edge with its mother

Waterbucks (m)

Waterbucks (f)

A baby hippopotamus is grazing on the water's edge with its mother. It’s still very small. Felix thinks it’s less than a week old. For a moment, crowned cranes and waterbucks capture our attention, but then we hurry back to the lodge. We arrive in the dining room just five minutes before breakfast closes.

 

Grey crowned crane

Following this, we embark on a nature walk of over two hours along the swamp under Simeon’s guidance. Mpake, a Masai warrior, will protect us from any predators that might threaten us. He has with him the right equipment for this – a spear, a stick, and a bottle of mineral water.

We know that underground water from the slopes of Kilimanjaro is the source of this swamp. However, less snow on Kilimanjaro results in less meltwater. Global warming is also a significant concern here. Everyone must take responsibility, according to Simeon. The wastewater from our lodge is meticulously purified and regularly chemically analysed before it is introduced into the ecosystem.

The alarming rate at which trees are disappearing in Amboseli is striking. This is partly due to soil salinization, which, in turn, is caused by drying out. However, the 1,400 elephants that inhabit the park also play a role. After all, every elephant considers it their duty to periodically dismantle a tree. In fact, Simeon sighs, this small park has far too many elephants.

Particularly popular among the big mammals are the yellow fever trees. They strip the bark from the tree to chew on it. However, afterwards, that tree is left bare. Without its bark, it can offer much less resistance to the insects that threaten it. And then those same elephants still dare to rub their backs against the defenceless tree.

 

Saddle-billed stork

Poisonous datura (nightshade family)

No matter how arid the area is, various flowers manage to secure a place at the edge of the swamp. Simeon points out large white flowers with purple centres from the morning glory family, as well as the extremely toxic datura from the nightshade family, which is known to grow near human habitation – the lodge is barely a stone's throw away. The tree with large orange-red flowers from the trumpet tree family is called the African tulip here.

At Simeon's request, we are pleased to look at an elephant turd the size of a football. The colours visible in the dung reveal where the elephant has recently been, he explains as he diligently pokes at the dung with a stick. An elephant always unintentionally picks up some soil while grazing. In this case, it turns out to be reddish-brown earth. So, we are dealing with an individual that has recently been in the mountains, as the soil on the plain is white. Moreover, that white rock crumbles very easily, creating the dust that swirls around our jeeps so fervently.

An elephant as a mobile pharmacy – that’s something we have never heard of before

Masai people also show more than ordinary interest in elephant dung. Such dung may contain remnants of plants that could be medicinally useful but are not found here. An elephant as a mobile pharmacy – that’s something we have never heard of before.

 

Masai herders with cows

Masai cattle graze along the water’s edge, while a few herders keep a watchful eye. Little birds hop impatiently around the grazing heads. With each grazing movement, the ground is disturbed a bit, and the birds eagerly peck at any insects that are unearthed.

 

Masai herder with goats

For the Masai, this swamp is of colossal importance, as it is the only place where their cattle can graze and drink. That cows, goats, donkeys and people share their habitat with wild animals is far from obvious. Especially if you have to assume that it is not the people, but the wild animals that need protection.

The elephants, standing in the swamp water up to their tusks, are also accompanied by cattle egrets. The water plants these giants are feeding on are actually not nutritious enough for them, but they too must make do with what they have.

Extreme conditions lead to extreme behaviour, such as an elephant digging for roots

This leads Simeon to discuss the perpetual fluctuations in the populations of prey animals and predators. When the number of prey animals increases in a fertile environment, the number of predators will also rise, albeit with some delay. This increase in predators will subsequently cause the number of prey animals to decline. The number of predators may continue to rise for a while before it too starts to decrease. Environmental conditions, such as a lack of food, can certainly influence these cycles. However, the park management allows nature to take its course and will not attempt to manipulate this process, even if the populations are currently struggling.

Extreme conditions lead to extreme behaviour. Simeon points out an inconspicuous hole where an elephant has been digging for roots. It keeps the hole open with its front foot while probing the ground with its trunk. This feeding strategy is only employed when it is very dry.

Moreover, elephants are not picky eaters at all. They even appreciate the thorns of an acacia tree – of which we now know can easily pierce the thickest of shoe soles. Unfazed, they grind them down between their teeth. Giraffes, on the other hand, want nothing to do with the thorns. With their long tongue and hard palate, they can process the leaves without injuring themselves on the thorns.

 

Cinnamon-chested bee-eater

Superb starling

On a distant branch in the dry grass sits a stunning bee-eater – a yellow neck, cinnamon-coloured chest, green head, and back. Bees and wasps are the favourite foods for this cinnamon-chested bee-eater, but it also doesn’t shy away from moths, butterflies, or dragonflies. You can only find it at relatively high altitudes.

Verreaux's eagle-owls are the largest owls in Africa and the third largest in the world

Verreaux's eagle-owl

Deep within the foliage of a tall tree, Simeon has discovered two gigantic Verreaux's eagle-owls. They are the largest owls in Africa and the third largest in the world, with a wingspan of up to two meters and a length of up to 75 cm. With their large eyes, they sit astonished, watching the bustle below their tree. Characteristic features include their orange eyes and light pink eyelids on a grey-white, oval face – but this is only discernible through binoculars at this distance.

A small dust devil swirls in the distance through the dust. It always moves away from the swamp, Simeon explains. The open plain and rocky ground warm up faster than the water in the swamp. Therefore, a lower air pressure prevails above the open plain, creating an air flow from the swamp to the plain. Furthermore, a dust devil always swirls counterclockwise, according to Simeon, since we are south of the equator. Ah, there’s the Coriolis effect again, though it’s debatable whether it has any effect on this scale.

 

Dust devil

Blacksmith plover

A climbing plant has sought and found support from an acacia. This accelerates its growth but will ultimately come at the expense of the acacia, which will succumb under its weight. The climbing plant owes its nickname wait-a-bit vine to its sharp thorns, named after the Afrikaans phrase wag 'n bietjie. If you get your clothes caught in the thorns, you have every reason to let out that cry.

A metallic hammering sound echoes from the direction of the swamp. It’s not a blacksmith at work, but a blacksmith plover making its presence known. It gets its name from that characteristic call. According to Simeon, it has no trouble misleading an enemy, as it has a whole host of tricks up its sleeve. For instance, it will simulate a limp to lure a predator away from its nest.

 

Wildebeest, waterbucks, zebras

During the day, wildebeests and zebras typically stay on the opposite side of the swamp. However, as evening approaches, they set out for this side of the swamp because they feel safer in the open field at night. By that time, the Masai have brought their cattle, which graze here during the day, back within the enclosure. At dawn, the wildebeests and zebras return to their usual spot. Not coincidentally, they pass just behind the lodge twice a day, much to the delight of the guests present.

 

Wildebeest, cattle egret, buffaloes

The Masai will consistently concentrate their huts as much as possible in one location. This way, they disturb the migrations of the animals the least.

 

Zebra with foal

Three completely picked-clean carcasses lie in the grass, with their hairy legs scattered across the ground. Simeon is tempted to give a crash course in osteology – ribs, sternum, spine, and pelvis are indeed laid out very visibly.

This marks the end of our walk. Geoffrey has chosen this very setting to await us with refreshing drinks before taking us back to the lodge in his jeep.

 

 

Four o'clock, safari time. For the very last time, we head out, standing in the open jeep, scanning for anything with paws. The marsh is buzzing with life. This is the only place where water can be found now, according to Felix. Zebras, wildebeests, and Thomson's gazelles graze along the shore, while elephants, hippos, and buffaloes feast on the plants in the marsh, with the water sometimes up to their chins.

 

African fish eagle

A great egret stands on the shore. Majestically, a fish eagle soars high above the marsh. Its wingspan can reach up to 1.8 meters, and its diet consists of 99% fish. On the edge of the water, its partner watches attentively. They form a lifelong pair.

 

African fish eagle

Spur-winged geese

A group of about ten spur-winged geese is also present, which is no surprise, as they can be found in moist marshlands throughout sub-Saharan Africa. They float peacefully on the water or stroll along the shore. Weighing up to seven kilograms and measuring up to 115 centimetres in length, they are the largest waterfowl in Africa. Their name comes from the strong spurs on the edge of their wings. You would think that they need them to defend themselves against enemies, but that is not the case. Males use their spurs to eliminate competitors during the mating season.

On the other side of the marsh, completely out of reach, a sizable herd of elephants tramples through the dust.

 

Buffaloes in the barren plain

At half-past five, we reach the observation hill that is supposed to offer us a magnificent view of the park and the towering Kilimanjaro. However, we can already count on disappointment, as the stubborn volcanic cone remains persistently shrouded in clouds. A path leads up the bare slope. The local population refers to this hill as Noomotio, which means place with hollowed stones that can hold water.

 

Water channels show where elephants have eaten their way through the floating swamp vegetation

Swamp of Enkongo Narok

From the summit of the solitary hill, several dozen meters above the plain, we gaze down at the lush green Enkongo Narok swamp. Open water channels weave through the dense floating vegetation, evidence of the feasting elephants that have passed through. A small island is covered with pelicans, their white bodies stark against the greenery. Surrounding the swamp, the dry plain stretches to the horizon, with tiny clouds of dust rising from the animals with every movement. Even without Kilimanjaro in view, the sight is truly spectacular.

 

Elephant carcass

On an island lies the elephant carcass we saw this morning. Immediately, we understand why the carcass remains intact – it's unreachable for hyenas. However, this does not deter poachers. The Kenya Wildlife Service has also recognised this, as they have landed a helicopter to remove the valuable tusks. According to Felix, all tusks from deceased elephants are stored in a large government warehouse.

Around half past six, we arrive at the lodge. A young male elephant gives us a final salute from among the bushes. That's how it should be.

 

Elephants in the barren plain

The last supper awaits us in the open air, right next to the place where the wildebeest and zebras pass by twice a day during their mini-migration. Masai dances round off the spectacle.

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Friday 24 July | Amboseli National Park – Nairobi

The peak of Kilimanjaro is very faintly visible in the clouds – if you stare long enough in the same direction, you are prepared to suspect that you think you might see the summit. A view of its conical flank is certainly not granted to us.

 

We can see with our own eyes how much damage elephants can cause to trees

 

Shortly after eight, we leave the lodge behind us. A small herd of elephants crosses our path. One of the males is in heat; he seems to have five legs. Felix estimates him to be twenty years old. He is still a bachelor and has his sights set on the dominant female. However, she is not interested in an Oedipal relationship with her own son. Roaring, she repels him. Sulking, he walks a distance behind the group – this time on four legs.

 

The horny elephant has it in for the dominant female. However, she is not interested in an Oedipal relationship with her own son

A short detour via Ol Tukaj should get us to the C103 faster. We can witness the immense destruction elephants can cause to trees once again at the Ol Tukaj Lodge. Just before nine, we reach Meshanani Gate. The roofs of the jeeps are now irreversibly closed. The gerenuk is one of the first and also one of the last animals we have seen in the past weeks.

 

Masai giraffe among savannah vegetation

Robert and Felix now turn their noses towards Nairobi. We submissively endure the African massage of the C103 and our last visit to a souvenir shop. But those are not the memories we will carry with us. It is the abundant wildlife, both in its numbers and diversity, that will be etched in our memories forever.

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Jaak Palmans

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