At the bottom of the volcano

Tanzania | Anno 2009

 

Sunday, July 19 | Naabi Hill – Olduvai Gorge – Loongoku – Ngorongoro

Monday, July 20 | Ngorongoro – Lake Manyara National Park

 

 

Sunday, July 19 | Naabi Hill – Olduvai Gorge – Loongoku – Ngorongoro

It took some practice, but we are slowly getting the name of our next destination to roll off our tongues smoothly – Ngorongoro. This remnant of an exploded volcano is a world unto itself. With its diameter of nearly twenty kilometres, it is the world’s largest intact caldera.

It’s no surprise, then, that Ngorongoro is one of Tanzania’s major attractions

The massive crater wall rises more than six hundred meters steeply above the caldera floor. Depending on the altitude, various climate zones have even formed along the slope. The wall is so steep that you can only descend into the core with a vehicle at three locations. Animals have no trouble with it, easily migrating in and out of the caldera, attracted by the abundant grass and the permanent water supply from Lake Magadi. Even black rhinos can be spotted here. It’s no surprise, then, that Ngorongoro is one of Tanzania’s major attractions.

 

On our way to Ngorongoro

Yet, Ngorongoro is merely the most prominent in a chain of volcanoes that have formed here over millions of years. They serve as a constant reminder that the ever-progressing formation of the Great Rift Valley is no trivial matter. Some of these volcanoes, like Ngorongoro, have long since collapsed. Others remain intact but are dormant. One of them – Ol Doinyo Lengai, the Mountain of God – is even still active. All of these volcanoes are part of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, an expanse of 8 300 km², slightly smaller than Cyprus.

A chain of volcanoes serves as a constant reminder that the ever-progressing formation of the Great Rift Valley is no trivial matte

So, although we had to leave the Serengeti behind this morning, what awaits us makes up for it in spades. However, for now, there is little change in the scenery. The landscape remains as desolate as before, and the unpaved road continues to be a jarring experience for both vehicle and passengers.

 

Shifting Sands

In search of the famous Shifting Sands, we take a dusty side road. Dancing on its four wheels, the jeep digs its way through the loose sand. A solitary dune of fine black sand appears to slowly move westward under the constant influence of the east wind. And today, the wind is not too bad, says Koi, because it's usually much dustier here. Posts mark the dune's previous positions – 2003, 2000, 1995, 1990, 1985, 1980, 1976, 1969. It seems to us that the dune takes about five years to shift a hundred meters.

Through the loose sand, we continue towards the Olduvai Gorge. It is sometimes called the cradle of humanity, given the many fossil remains of hominids or distant ancestors of humans found there. A steep rocky road leads us right through the gorge to the other side, where we immediately arrive at the Olduvai Museum, about 1 400 meters above sea level.

 

Inselberg

Before diving into the museum, we are introduced to the geology of the area. But first, our guide clears up a persistent misunderstanding. The gorge originally got its name from the wild sisal that grows here so abundantly – oldupai. However, when a British botanist was chasing butterflies here in 1911, he mistakenly corrupted the name to olduvai. That became the name by which the gorge would become world-famous – Olduvai Gorge. And much to the disappointment of purists, Olduvai is also the name systematically used in the museum.

Every year in July and August, excavations still take place. In the walls of the gorge, you can clearly distinguish five geological layers, four of which can be associated with a human ancestor.

It must have been a spectacular surprise for Mary Leakey to unearth the very first significant hominid bone on July 17, 1959, after twenty-eight years of research

It starts with a layer of lava and basalt, right at the bottom. This layer is two million years old, and Australopithecus boisei thrived in it. Although this extinct hominid is no longer considered a direct ancestor of Homo sapiens, it must have been a spectacular surprise for Mary Leakey to unearth the very first significant hominid bone on July 17, 1959, after twenty-eight years of research in this scorching gorge. And even more remarkable, she found it by chance, at a time when she wasn’t actually digging.

 

Inselberg

Higher up, we encounter a layer of volcanic ash that is 1,5 million years old. This was the environment of Homo habilis, the first hominid to make and use stone tools. The middle layer, however, has not yielded any anthropological finds – likely because it was too hot and dry for human ancestors at that time.

Homo erectus is the first hominid in which we recognise ourselves – at least a little – with its flat face, its protruding nose and its sparse hair

The fourth layer, formed 800 000 years ago from volcanic ash, was home to Homo erectus. This is the first hominid in which we recognise ourselves – at least a little – with its flat face, its protruding nose and its sparse hair. Homo erectus knew how to use fire, hunt in groups, and care for injured or sick members of their species. Most importantly, Homo erectus was the first hominid to leave Africa, exploring Asia and Europe.

Finally, the fifth layer, just 100 000 years old, saw Homo sapiens evolve into Homo sapiens sapiens – our species.

The most spectacular discoveries, of course, are those of Mary Leakey at Laetoli, about 45 km from here. In 1978, she uncovered footprints in a layer of tuff that was 3,6 million years old. These prints turned out to belong to three distant ancestors of humans. A male and a female walked side by side, and to complicate things, a second male walked in the first male's footprints – likely because the ground was too hot for him otherwise. This trio belonged to Homo afarensis, the same species as the famous Lucy from Afar in Ethiopia, who lived 400 000 years later. Just hearing the name makes Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds start playing in our heads like a catchy tune.

 

Red-headed rock agama

Brimstone canaries

These hominids were only 110 to 120 cm tall. They must have walked across a fresh layer of volcanic ash from the Sadiman volcano, located about twenty kilometres to the south. Their footprints were perfectly preserved in this moist ash layer. The presence of sodium carbonate contributed to the ash drying into a cement-like layer, preserving the 27-meter-long trail of footprints for eternity.

Footprints from other animals were also found – elephants, white and black rhinos, dik-diks, guineafowl. Even a mare and her foal, running from the opposite direction, left identifiable tracks.

Homo erectus was the first hominid to leave Africa, exploring Asia and Europe

What makes this discovery so remarkable is that it provides not only clues about the bones of these hominids but also about their soft tissues, which long ago decayed. The arch of the foot is clearly visible in the footprints. Additionally, the big toe aligns with the rest of the foot, two adaptations that facilitate upright walking. In other primates, the big toe is rotated against the other toes, which helps with grasping but not with walking. In short, this trail of footprints proves beyond doubt that these hominids were walking on two legs 3,6 million years ago. Despite its name, Homo erectus was not the first of our ancestors to walk upright.

 

Foothills of the volcanoes

We climb out of the plains over the foothills of the volcanoes. Under a tree in front of a kraal, Masai women are gathered, chatting. This is Loongoku, a Cultural Village, where we are expected. Around twenty small huts are enclosed by a ring of thorny acacia bushes, shielding the village from its surroundings. Sindato, the chief’s son, welcomes us. The oval scars on his cheeks indicate that he was born at night.

 

Loongoku – Welcome dance

 

First, we are greeted with welcome dances. Now in two rows, then in two concentric circles, the Masai men dance around while loudly shouting rhythmic chants. It almost feels as though we are not welcome, given the intensity of the performance. Creative improvisation seems to take precedence over synchronisation. The dancers often wear shoes made from cut-up car tires. In the background, singing women contribute their part. Any coordination between the singing and dancing seems more coincidental than deliberate.

 

 

 

 

The ritual is complete, and we are now welcome to enter the kraal. There, the men will perform the adumu, the traditional jumping dance of young warriors, held during special occasions such as initiations, rites of passage, and weddings, Sindato explains. Meanwhile, the women will sing a circumcision song.

They jump purely using the strength of their feet and calf muscles; their heels do not touch the ground, and their knees do not bend

Adumu, traditional jumping dance of young warriors

The men line up in a semicircle. Taking turns, they come forward, sometimes individually and sometimes in pairs or groups of three, to practice the famous jumping ritual. Stiff as boards, with their arms tightly at their sides, they jump fifty to sixty centimetres high, sometimes a dozen times in a row without interruption.

This may seem very banal, but it is not. It’s as if they are jumping on a trampoline, but one made of concrete. They jump purely using the strength of their feet and calf muscles; their heels do not touch the ground, and their knees do not bend.

For the young morani or warriors, the goal of this competition is to jump the highest, showcasing their masculinity and strength. Originally, the dance was performed at night, under one of those beautiful open starry skies that the savannah seems to have a monopoly on, making it look as though the dancers were leaping into the stars.

 

Originally, the dance was performed at night, making it look as though the dancers were leaping into the stars

The visit to the huts is about to begin. In pairs, we are each assigned a guide. Jackson will show us his hut – and also some items that just happen to be displayed in front of his hut, which can change owners for a modest price. He is twenty years old and not yet married. The visit to the hut doesn't need to take too long, he explains, so there will be enough time left for a visit to the market.

 

 

The huts are made from branches covered with dried cow dung. Building huts is women's work among these nomads. A Masai man may have a maximum of ten wives, but then he must also build ten huts, according to Jackson. Not build, but have them built, we add with a slight frown.

 

Through a narrow U-shaped passageway – designed to keep wild animals out – we squeeze our XXL bodies into the tiny hut

 

We squeeze our XXL bodies through a narrow U-shaped passageway – designed to keep wild animals out – and find ourselves inside the tiny hut. Without realising it, we are standing with our big feet right in the middle of the extinguished fire pit, as it is pitch dark inside. Even after a few minutes, we still can't adjust to the darkness.

 

Interior of hut with bed

Couple at entrance of their hut

There are two beds inside – the smallest one is for the man, and the largest one is for the woman and children. Above the woman’s bed, there is a window, Jackson says, pointing to a small opening in the wall that is less than ten centimetres in diameter. Above the man’s bed, there is no window. An opening of the same size on the other side of the hut is intended to vent smoke while cooking. They fetch water with donkeys. It takes a whole day to do this, but they bring back enough for four days.

 

Open air school

Outside the kraal, 23 children are waiting for us on benches under a tree. A chart displaying the first fifty natural numbers is posted on a board. They are learning math here, as well as Kiswahili and English. The children sit somewhat apathetically, waiting for us to leave, as does the teacher. One toddler is so tired that he is resting his head on the bench, asleep. We can’t shake the impression that this tableau vivant has been quickly set up to please the visitors, which Jackson promptly denies vehemently.

 

 

We climb out of the plains along the steep slopes of the caldera. At Windy Gate, Pedro gives us a brief look into the interior of Ngorongoro. Just for a moment, barely enough to be fascinated by that strange sight of the seemingly desolate basin with its enormous salt pan. Then he hurries towards Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge. The rest is for tomorrow, he grins. Our expectations are high.

 

Lake Magadi in the Ngorongoro Crater

Just before six o'clock, we arrive at the lodge, 2 300 meters high. This will be the highest overnight stop of the trip, and perhaps also the coldest. In the reception hall, the fireplace is lit, the central heating is on in the room, and we find hot water bottles in bed.

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Monday, July 20 | Ngorongoro – Lake Manyara National Park

Via the crater rim we return to Windy Gate. Mist is a regular occurrence at this altitude in the morning, according to Koi. Just look at the trees, where moss thrives on the trunks. Without a daily dose of humidity, that would not be possible in this bone-dry environment. Although today the mist is very manageable. Sometimes you can barely see your hand in front of your eyes. Down in the caldera there is never any mist, on very clear days you can even see Kili-manjaro. That will not happen today, but that does not matter, because in a few days we will be able to admire the volcano in all its grandeur all day long in Amboseli.

Mist is a regular occurrence at this altitude in the morning. Just look at the trees, where moss thrives on the trunks

Descent into the Ngorongoro Crater

It is eight o'clock when we descend into the caldera via Seneto Road, one of the few routes leading to the crater floor. Apparently, the access rules are quite strict – likely due to the site's immense popularity. After 4 p.m., entry is no longer allowed, and after 6 p.m., you can't even exit. What exactly that last rule entails, we're not quite sure.

 

Wildebeest

At the bottom, we are promptly greeted by a handful of zebras and two lions. Ngorongoro is home to about a hundred lions, Koi informs us, but if you include the Serengeti and the Masai Mara, the total reaches four thousand lions.

 

Lake Magadi, zebras

And then there’s that enormous white patch. That’s Lake Magadi, a partially dried-up salt lake with a diameter of several kilometres

Lake Magadi, wildebeest

There’s not much difference between the caldera and the savannah outside of it. Here too, we find a treeless world of knee-high grass, where grazers feast while predators keep a watchful eye. The only thing missing is the distant horizon. No matter which direction you look, your gaze is always met by the green crater walls.

And then there’s that enormous white patch. That’s Lake Magadi, a partially dried-up salt lake with a diameter of several kilometres. According to Koi, only 100 to 110 mm of rain falls here annually. But when it does rain, the grass grows quickly and rises above the water. The Masai have grazing rights in the crater, though they are no longer allowed to settle there.

 

Grey crowned cranes

On the shore of the lake, two grey crowned cranes forage in the grass. They are a lifelong pair. What makes these large wading birds stand out are the stiff, golden feathers on their heads and their bright red throat pouch.

 

Grey crowned cranes, zebras

In the background, zebras appear as the sun begins to make its first appearance. Hundreds of wildebeest graze across the plains. These grazers have their own paths, which they follow to leave the caldera during the rainy season. Half of the zebras and a fifth of the wildebeest make this journey. Impalas, topis, and giraffes, on the other hand, will never venture into the crater.

 

Wildebeest, flamingos

Neatly in a row, a group of ten wildebeest crosses the grey shore of the white lake. They completely ignore the spotted hyena at the water's edge.

 

Marabou stork

A thick blanket of clouds hangs over the caldera, and every now and then, the sun breaks through, but it remains very chilly. The animals are unconcerned, going about their usual activities. Flamingos bend over the shallow water, while zebras quench their thirst. Two wildebeest are having a scuffle. A marabou stork scavenges along the muddy shore. Two hippos peck at the grass. The hyena stubbornly continues to sniff around the water's edge. A Thomson's gazelle wanders through the grass, and a few warthogs are kneeling to graze.

 

Grazing warthog

Then our very first Grant's gazelle makes its appearance. Its back is light brown to brown-yellow, and its belly and chest are white; both males and females have horns. In short, we can't see a hair's breadth of difference between this Grant's gazelle and a Thomson's gazelle. But Koi keeps his lips tightly sealed and lets us solve the problem ourselves. So we try to take a closer look at the grazing quadruped. With success, because this gazelle does not have a dark stripe on its flank between its white belly and brown back. A Thomson's gazelle does have that; there you have the difference.

In short, we can't see a hair's breadth of difference between this Grant's gazelle and a Thomson's gazelle

Grant’s gazelles

Black-backed jackal

Wrong, Koi smiles a bit too triumphantly for our liking. Some Grant's gazelles do indeed have that stripe. Grant's gazelles are slightly larger and a bit paler than Thomson's gazelles, but the distinction is mainly at the back. In Grant's gazelles, both the rear and the tail are white – except for the black fringes at the end – while Thomson's gazelles have a fully black tail.

A kori bustard can weigh up to 19 kg, making it the heaviest bird that still can fly

Kori bustard

A large grey bird walks thoughtfully through the grass, searching for insects and other delicacies. It’s a kori bustard, this species can weigh up to 19 kg, making it the heaviest bird that still can fly. It thrives in grasslands at altitudes between 700 and 2 000 meters, so it’s no surprise that we encounter it here. The bird lives either alone or in groups and likes to raise its tail and neck feathers to impress females.

In the water of a small pool lies a strange collection of grey rock formations. Upon closer inspection, these prove to be the motionless backs of hippos

Mandusi pool – Hippos

In the water of a small pool lies a strange collection of grey rock formations. Upon closer inspection, these prove to be the completely motionless backs of about fifty hippos lying close together in the water. We usually don't see them like this, these bickering types. Apparently, for them it’s even too cold to bicker.

A bit further down the path, two lions with blood-red mouths are devouring the meaty thighs of a wildebeest. From a respectful distance, a solitary hyena watches the scene with envy. Is he hoping that something will be left for him later, or is he quietly counting on reinforcements to show up?

 

 

A small herd of wildebeest has settled comfortably in the grass. Four kori bustards roam around them unperturbed. A little further along, at the shore of Lake Magadi, a herd of grazing wildebeest is not bothered by the hyena approaching them through the grass.

 

 

Near a watering hole, a lioness licks the fur of her two cubs. Hidden in the tall grass, a lion and another lioness are sleeping. Occasionally, irritated by the commotion, they lift their heads to glance in our direction to assess the situation.

 

Ngoitokitok swamp

Gradually, it seems that the sun is succeeding in dispersing the clouds. We briefly head to Ngoitokitok, the lush green marsh fed by a spring at the foot of the eastern crater wall. A chilly wind continues to sweep across the area.

Only about thirty black rhinos reside in the caldera

Determined, we now set out in search of rhinos. More specifically, the very rare black rhino, as the white rhino is not found in the caldera. It won’t be easy, as only about thirty individuals reside in the caldera. Moreover, they have a strong aversion to cold winds – likely why they hide in the bushes.

 

Wildebeest

A long column of wildebeest is on its way to a watering hole, possibly consisting of several hundred individuals. Meanwhile, the odds have changed at the wildebeest carcass. The solitary hyena was right; reinforcements have arrived, and there are now thirty of them. Against such a clan, the lions don’t stand a chance. From a respectful distance, they watch as about ten hyenas feast on their carcass, while the rest of the hyenas wander through the grass.

 

Wildebeest

Upstream, we follow the right bank of the Munge River, which drains the more northerly Olmotik crater and serves as the main water source for Lake Magadi. From a hill, we overlook the Ndiyadu. Further along, the meagre remains of a German farm can be seen – before World War I, Tanganyika was a German colony.

As soon as we cross the Munge River, Koi gives us little hope of spotting any rhinos. A kori bustard comes strolling very close to the jeep, as if to comfort us. Two male lions – brothers, undoubtedly – are sleeping in the tall grass. Occasionally, they lift their heads, allowing us a glimpse of their manes and powerful heads.

 

Clan of spotted hyenas

Around one o'clock, we return to Ngoitokitok to have a picnic. About fifty jeeps and vans are there for similar intentions. Dozens of black kites are lurking around – they know what happens here every day at this time. They are so bold that Koi advises us to eat in the jeeps.

In the meantime, the clouds have mostly disappeared, and the crater floor basks in the sun. However, about half of the crater rim is still shrouded in clouds. Two lionesses are keeping an eye on two zebras, but the zebras wisely make their escape before the lionesses can chase after them.

 

Zebras

It takes a moment for Koi to be certain, but then he delivers the verdict. In the distance, we’ve spotted three grey dots at the foot of the crater wall, and indeed, they turn out to be three black rhinos – about two kilometres away from us. Even with binoculars, all we can see through the shimmering heat haze are vague grey silhouettes. However, getting closer is out of the question; in Tanzania, jeeps rightly do not leave the roads. In Kenya, it would likely be a different story – Daniel would have certainly driven right on top of them.

A group of five lionesses lies lazily at the edge of a drainage ditch in the marsh. A little further on, a male lion is lying dead on his back in the grass – his right hind leg is raised in a sad farewell gesture. Apparently the hyenas haven't gotten wind of the carcass yet.

Park management inspectors have descended among the jeeps for a surprise inspection

Suddenly, a small traffic jam occurs on the narrow sandy paths. An anonymous vehicle is at the centre of the commotion, but Koi takes its occupants very seriously. They are park management inspectors, here for a surprise inspection among the jeeps. No, that lion is still alive, Koi casually reassures us while he approaches the inspectors with some documents in hand. But Koi is mistaken, we think, as the lion has been lying there for almost five minutes without a trace of movement; his motionless ribcage doesn't even breathe.

The jeep's tires are being inspected – perhaps to check whether Koi has left the paths and driven through the grass – and the documents are meticulously reviewed. To protect the crater from being overrun by tourists, access standards have been set. What those standards are is not entirely clear to us – there’s talk of two hundred vehicles per day, but also of a maximum presence of six hours.

The lion just wanted to check if the lionesses have caught his lunch yet, Koi summarises the scene

Dead...

...or not?

To our astonishment, the presumed dead lion comes to life. For a brief moment, the lazy lion yawns and lifts his weary head to gaze over the savannah, but that doesn’t last long. He promptly rolls onto his side to continue his beauty sleep.

 

 

The lion just wanted to check if the lionesses have caught his lunch yet, Koi summarises the scene as he walks over to his inspectors with a new bundle of documents. Two lionesses have picked up the hint and emerge from the drainage ditch in search of suitable prey.

 

 

It took quite a bit of effort, but in the end, Koi comes out on top. While we suspected him of being a rigid bureaucrat, he now reveals himself to be as cunning as a fox. Our permit is valid for twenty-four hours and expires at 3:40 p.m., as shown by the documents he waves around. However, he filled in that time himself when we entered the Ngorongoro Conservation Area yesterday – specifically at 1:40 p.m. This gives him about two extra hours. Officially, our detour past the Shifting Sands and Olduvai Gorge never happened.

 

 

It’s now 3 p.m., and we have exactly forty minutes left to exit the park. That’s no longer feasible; Koi will need to extend his permit. The inspectors are happy to sort that out for him – at a cost, of course – but Koi doesn’t know which pockets his shillings will end up in. Therefore, he wants to pull out his money only at the gate. However, he must first prove that he has enough cash on hand before the inspectors will leave him alone. The lion, still lying there as if dead, must surely have his own thoughts on the matter.

 

Not all the water in the caldera is as toxic as that of Lake Magadi. This is proven by the green patch at the foot of the southern crater wall

 

Not all the water in the caldera is as toxic as that of Lake Magadi. This is proven by the green patch at the foot of the southern crater wall, where the trees and shrubs of the Lerai Forest thrive excellently. In a delta of tiny streams, the river of the same name carries precious water down along the crater wall. It is here that our safari comes to an end; the roofs of the jeeps are inevitably closed. The gravel road winds its way through the trees in numerous hairpin turns as it ascends the slope. It takes us over fifteen minutes to reach the rim of the caldera.

 

Ngoitokitok swamp

At the top of the crater rim, we reach the familiar B144, the main road that takes us eastward through the park. To the left, we look down into the parched caldera, while to the right, we gaze over a lush green landscape that stretches to the eastern horizon – the contrast is simply stunning.

The Grzimeks mapped the migration of the wildebeest in 1957 using aerial photography to establish the park boundaries

Where the B144 separates from the crater wall, a pyramidal tomb of natural stone has been erected, overlooking the monumental caldera. This is a memorial for Bernard Grzimek and his son, Michael. Throughout their lives, they were dedicated to the development of national parks in the Serengeti and around Ngorongoro. They were the ones who mapped the migration of the wildebeest in 1957 using aerial photography to establish the park boundaries. Through their nature documentary Serengeti darf nicht sterben, Serengeti Shall Not Die, they raised public awareness of this necessity in 1959. However, Michael, barely twenty-five years old, would pay for his dedication with his life when his Dornier collided with a griffon vulture, one of the largest birds in the world. He gave all he possessed, including his life, for the wild animals of Africa, we read on the memorial stone.

Michael Grzimek, barely twenty-five years old, would pay for his dedication with his life when his Dornier collided with a griffon vulture

One last look at the Ngorongoro crater with Lake Magadi

Just after four, we take one last look at the magical caldera and then head towards Lodoare Gate. A new gate is under construction. A wide paved road signals the arrival of civilisation – after three days of gravel roads and dirt tracks, it takes some getting used to for us.

 

Fertile plain east of Ngorongoro

That this is a very fertile agricultural region was already evident from the crater rim earlier – corn, wheat, barley, sorghum, bananas, and many other crops thrive here. The mineral-rich soil and the abundant water supply from the volcanic highlands contribute significantly to this fertility.

 

Zebra Handicrafts – Wood carving

We almost forgot, but Koi and Pedro know the drill – they drop us off at Zebra Handicrafts, the inevitable tourist shop. Here, not only the sheer size of the offerings stands out, but also the quality of the beautiful wood carvings, especially among the so-called antiques.

Just before six, we arrive at Lake Manyara Serena Safari Lodge on the edge of the plateau. From an altitude of 1 240 meters above sea level, we once again look down upon the Great Rift Valley. At the foot of the steep wall lies Lake Manyara National Park. Our destination for tomorrow is that, along with the village of Mto Wa Mbu.

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Jaak Palmans

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Just some birds and some monkeys