Wanted – The Samburu Five

Kenya | Anno 2009

 

Saturday 11 July | Nairobi – Chaka – Buffalo Springs – Samburu

Sunday 12 July | Samburu National Reserve

 

 

Saturday 11 July | Nairobi – Chaka – Buffalo Springs – Samburu

The Samburu Five – we had never heard of them before. We can guess it's an allusion to the famous Big Five – the buffalo, lion, leopard, rhinoceros, and elephant. But we suspect it's just a cheap ploy to attract tourists. Wait and see, our driver and guide Peter grins. He’s confident that within thirty-six hours, we’ll have seen the five big animal species that can only be encountered in Kenya's Samburu Nature Reserve.

The tone is set. Our exploration of the East African savanna promises to hold much more than we had expected. It’s eight in the morning, and after an extensive breakfast buffet and surprisingly good coffee, we leave behind the bustling Nairobi. As for traffic, we already noted last night that Kenyans drive on the left side of the road except when they are driving on the right side, and that red and green traffic lights are mainly used to indicate where to turn right or left.

 

The Samburu Five – we had never heard of them before. The East African savanna promises to hold much more than we had expected

It’s going to be a long journey, at least 330 km. This trip will take us northward almost all day along the A2, in a wide curve around Mount Kenya. Peter insists that we wear our seatbelts. If we have any doubts about that, his driving style will surely change our minds.

For a week, we will be under the care of our two driver-guides – Peter, a towering man, and Daniel, a bit smaller. They’ve brought along two Land Rover Defenders. They look somewhat old-fashioned, but that might be a trademark of Land Rover, as these vehicles have only been in service for 3.5 years. Two eight-seater vehicles are more than enough for our small group, but the luggage space is a different story. Too bad Peter and Daniel don’t have a crowbar.

The sky is overcast and grey. It’s not particularly warm. Even though the equator is only 150 kilometres to the north, the thermometer doesn’t go higher than 15 °C (59 °F). We are, after all, more than 1,600 meters above sea level.

Meanwhile, Peter is introducing us to Kenya. With an area of 591,958 km², this country is almost the size of Spain and Portugal combined. About 39 million people live here, spread across 42 tribes. These tribes often disagree on how social life should be organised.

 

 

In terms of language groups, these tribes are divided into three categories. The longest-established in Kenya are the tribes originating from northeastern Africa, who speak a Cushitic language, related to that of the Moroccan Berbers. Today, they make up no more than a tiny minority.

Much more important are the Bantu peoples of West African origin, including the Kikuyu, Kamba, and Meru. It is mainly the Kikuyu who hold significant power in modern Kenya. They make up nearly a quarter of the population and contributed Jomo Kenyatta, the country’s first president. They also provide us with Daniel, our second driver-guide.

This is where we find the Kenyan roots of Barack Obama, as his father was a Luo

The third group consists of tribes mainly from Sudan that speak a Nilotic language. The most numerous among these are the Luo, representing about twelve percent of the Kenyan population. This is where we find the Kenyan roots of Barack Obama, as his father was a Luo.

The Kalenjin also speak a Nilotic language. With eleven percent, they make up a significant portion of the Kenyan population. Our Peter belongs to the Kalenjin, specifically the Kipsigis sub-tribe. When it comes to athletic prowess, it is primarily the Kalenjin who excel – about 70% of Kenya’s elite runners belong to this tribe. Additionally, there are the Samburu and Turkana tribes, as well as the Maasai. Although they constitute only two percent of the population, these nomads are by far the most well-known people of Kenya worldwide.

Meanwhile, Del Monte pineapple plantations slide past the windows. On the coffee plantations, mild, aromatic arabica is grown. In terms of quality, it surpasses the robusta with which we are more familiar in the West. Apparently, we have already enjoyed some of it this morning at breakfast. Peter is much less enthusiastic about the weather, noting that far too little rain has fallen in the fertile highlands. Expansive fields of completely withered corn stalks are the most visible consequence of this.

 

 

About forty kilometres past Thika, we cross the Tana River, the longest river in Kenya, stretching a thousand kilometres. Numerous police checkpoints along the road aim to combat arms trafficking to Somalia, according to Peter. Kenya is trying to boost trade with Somalia through a good road infrastructure, thereby lifting the country out of its international isolation. After all, Kenya does not benefit from having a troublesome or extremist neighbour. Arms trafficking is not an option, and the police are determined to put a stop to it.

An African Curio Shop along the road proves to be the most suitable place for a sanitary stop and a short break. This will become a regular ritual during our longer journeys – a visit to a curio shop. As expected, the very clean western-style toilets are only accessible via a corridor packed with the handiwork of local artisans. Hundreds, thousands, sometimes tens of thousands of wooden carvings patiently wait to change hands for a reasonable price. Typically, in a distant corner, masks from neighbouring villages are displayed, radiating a sense of authenticity – always referred to by the sellers with a serious expression and raised eyebrows as antiques.

Half an hour later, we continue our wide curve around Mount Kenya via the A2. In the distance to the left, the Aberdare Mountains are still barely visible. There, near Nyeri, according to Peter, lies the Treetops Hotel. Few people would have ever heard of this hotel were it not for the fact that the twenty-five-year-old Elizabeth Windsor learned there on 6 February, 1952, that her father, King George VI, had unexpectedly passed away in his sleep that night. She went to sleep as a princess and woke up as a queen.

 

Candelabra tree

A striking feature in the landscape is the candelabra trees, succulent plants with the stature of a tree. Like the arms of a candelabra, cactus-like branches grow from the tree's trunk. These plants can grow up to ten meters tall. As the Latin name euphorbia candelabrum suggests, the plant is highly toxic. If the white sap from the tree enters the human eye, it can result in blindness.

 

Chaka – Fruit and vegetable market

The colourful vegetable and fruit market of Chaka, located on the gravel strip between the asphalt road and the railway track, offers us our first chance to take out our cameras. Beyond that, there’s not much happening on the arid plateau. However, in the distance, impoverished settlements indicate that people are trying to survive here. According to Peter, these are Kikuyu. After the elections of December 2007 and the subsequent unrest, they were forced to settle in this area. Further along, there are Borana, who are said to have been displaced by the Kikuyu.

 

Chaka – Fruit and vegetable market

Oncoming traffic, curves, or inclines make little impression on Peter. He typically speeds along the right lane because he encounters fewer obstacles there. Only speed bumps manage to earn his respect – which says a lot about those bumps. Everything he says, Peter underscores with animated arm movements, fuelled by boundless enthusiasm. He may be inclined to use his feet too, but that doesn't align with his priorities, as he’d have to ease off the gas.

We’ve now entered the Meru region. While the heart of Kenya’s rose cultivation lies further west around Lake Naivasha, they know a thing or two about it in this valley as well. The roses grown in the vast greenhouses are available for sale at the Amsterdam flower market less than twenty-four hours after being picked. Savvy Dutch horticulturists have made the most of the ideal climatic conditions of Kenya’s highlands – moderate day and night temperatures, twelve hours of high light intensity per day, and this all year round.

We make a brief stop in Nanyuki, a small town on the equator. Fifty kilometres later, we complete our wide curve around Mount Kenya. Now, we head directly north toward Isiolo. At this point, the excellent asphalt road comes to an end. The A2 is now reduced to a narrow gravel road that alternates between the left and right of the asphalt road under construction. The A2 is now reduced to a narrow gravel road running next to the asphalt road under construction. Amidst the enormous dust clouds, Peter can fully indulge in overtaking other vehicles.

The roses grown in the vast greenhouses are available for sale at the Amsterdam flower market less than twenty-four hours after being picked

Meanwhile, finger candelabra trees have appeared in the landscape, the miniature version of the larger candelabra trees. No animal dares to eat from these plants due to their toxicity. Only the rhino is immune to their poison. Fishermen sometimes cut branches from these trees and throw them into the water, causing the fish to float to the surface, stunned by the toxins, making them easy to scoop up.

The long, sprawling settlement of Isiolo marks one of the last civilised stopping points along the A2 on the way to the Ethiopian border. For the next five hundred kilometres, you won’t find much comfort. The town is renowned for its mix of nomadic tribes, including Somali, Samburu, Turkana, and Borana.

However, Isiolo is also known for simmering conflicts between Muslims and Christians, Peter explains. Both communities make up roughly half of the local population. Peter describes the recently built Saint Eusebius Catholic Cathedral as a massive structure, far too large for the area. It’s fenced off, and according to Peter, no one ever visits it, and no one knows why it was built. Perhaps it's a statement against Islam, an attempt to highlight the Christian presence?

Further on, there's the new mosque, also disproportionately large for the area. But here, there are people. We’re immediately greeted with the universal middle-finger gesture – both hands, no less.

Peter quickly shifts the conversation. In Kenya, he explains, preschool education typically begins at age four, and primary school at six. These levels of education are supposed to be free. However, secondary education costs between one hundred to one hundred and fifty dollars a year in public schools, while private education is two to three times more expensive.

About twenty kilometres north of Isiolo, more than three hundred kilometres from Nairobi, our patience is finally rewarded. We are approaching Samburu National Reserve, our destination for today.

 

Samburu National Reserve

In fact, here you get three National Reserves for the price of one. Shaba is located just east of the A2, while Samburu and Buffalo Springs lie to the west, separated by the Ewaso Ng'iro River. Together, they cover no more than 300 square kilometres. Despite their relatively small size, they promise a rich diversity of unique mammals.

 

Umbrella acacia with olive baboons

Just before half past one, we enter Buffalo Springs Park through the Ngare Mara Gate. Our dull drive instantly transforms into a safari adventure. On the green canopy of an umbrella acacia tree, about fifteen olive baboons or Anubis baboons are perched, keen on the tree’s seeds. Occasionally, they shake the branches, causing the seeds to fall, where their companions can easily gather them from the ground. A few Thomson's gazelles have caught onto this game and join the party beneath the tree, hoping to share in the bounty.

A few Thomson's gazelles have caught onto this game and join the party

Somali ostrich

A bit further along, a large ostrich stares at us. It’s a Somali ostrich, a rather rare species, easily recognisable by the light blue neck and legs of the male. With this sighting, we’ve already spotted our first member of the Samburu Five, as these ostriches are only found in this region. In other Kenyan parks, it’s the Masai ostrich, distinguished by its pink neck and legs, that prevails. The reason these two species have diverged over the last four million years is due to the Great African Rift Valley, which formed like a wedge between their habitats.

 

Dik-dik

On the horizon, Peter points out a hill shaped like a human face. For the Samburu, this is still a sacred mountain where they go to pray and offer sacrifices.

With its long, slender neck, it almost seems like this antelope always wanted to be a giraffe

Gerenuk

Truly, there’s a gerenuk standing among the bushes. This is the pride of Samburu, as according to Peter, you won’t find this animal elsewhere in Kenya. That makes it number two on our bucket list. With its long, slender neck, it almost seems like this antelope always wanted to be a giraffe, which is why it’s also called the giraffe gazelle. At the top of that long neck is a tiny head nestled between two large ears. Weighing between 30 and 50 kg, it’s quite a hefty gazelle.

 

Bone-dry bed of the Ewaso Ng'iro

The Isiolo River is the only place where you can still find some water in these parks. The Ewaso Ng’iro, on the other hand, is completely dried up. Its name, Brown River, comes from the large amount of sand it carries during the rainy season. We cross its dry riverbed, drive through Uaso Bridge Gate into the neighbouring Samburu National Reserve, and at two o’clock, we reach Samburu Game Lodge – 835 meters above sea level, 64 kilometres north of the equator. Our lodges overlook the bone-dry riverbed. On the opposite side, a herd of elephants solemnly marches across the savanna. Among the bushes, we spot a few kudus. Here and there, vervet monkeys are sitting around, they even run over the balustrade of the terraces.

 

Vervet monkeys – Female with young

It’s half past four when we begin our first real safari – the Kiswahili word for journey. Safaris are usually only worthwhile during the early morning hours and late afternoon because animals prefer to stay quiet during the hot midday hours. Tourists, for that matter, share this preference. The viewing hatches in the jeep roofs are opened, and standing in the jeeps, we can observe the entire surroundings.

A few helmeted guineafowl are foraging in the grass, searching for insects and seeds. They are strange creatures, with their blue bodies, black-and-white spotted feathers, and reddish-brown heads. Their head and neck somewhat resemble those of a vulture – hence their name.

 

Waterbuck (m)

Waterbucks (v)

You can immediately recognise waterbucks by the distinctive white circle on their behinds. It's as if they've sat on a freshly painted white toilet seat, as Peter puts it. We mostly see females, but also a few males with their characteristic horns.

Dik-diks always form lifelong pairs and are fiercely loyal. If one partner dies, the surviving one often commits suicide

Dik-diks

Warthog with red-billed oxpeckers

Among the dense bushes, we spot a few dik-diks. These are the smallest antelopes of the savanna, weighing barely three to five kilograms and standing only 30 to 40 centimetres tall on their delicate legs. They aren't much larger than the elephant droppings they walk between. They prefer to seek protection in dense thickets and, with scent glands on their snouts, they pre-emptively mark several escape routes, allowing them to flee quickly if danger arises. This strategy helps them extend their lifespan to around eight years. They always form lifelong pairs and are fiercely loyal. If one partner dies, the surviving one often commits suicide, for example by throwing itself in front of a lion or jumping into a river.

 

Reticulated giraffe

Thin white lines seem to cover their brown fur in a net-like pattern

We're in luck, as we can check number 3 off our list of the Samburu Five. The graceful reticulated giraffes have made their appearance. They are only found in southern Ethiopia, northern Kenya, and Somalia. Thin white lines seem to cover their brown fur in a net-like pattern. After elephants and rhinoceroses, they have the third longest gestation period of all mammals, Peter tells us. Calmly, they stand there, grazing on the high leaves of a tree.

 

Elephant

A group of olive baboons is making a lot of noise. It’s only males, which explains all the commotion. Warthogs scurry among them, as nervous as ever. On the back of one of the male warthogs, two red-billed oxpeckers are hitching a ride. As their name suggests, oxpeckers usually prefer cattle as hosts. But this time, they’ve settled for a warthog. Using their beaks, they scrape insects and larvae from its fur and skin. Both the warthog and the oxpeckers seem quite content with the arrangement.

 

 

 

Our very first elephant is anything but cooperative. For minutes, all we see is its noble backside as it devours an acacia bush. We have more luck a bit further on, where we spot a handful of elephants with a calf.

 

Buffalo

 

Four buffaloes are calmly grazing, some with a red-billed oxpecker perched on their backs. The idyllic scene gives no hint that these African buffaloes, sometimes called Cape buffalo, have a reputation for being the most dangerous animals to humans in the bush and savanna.

 

Superb starling

Several superb starlings hop through the grass. With their black heads, blue-green backs and wings, and the white chest stripe between their orange-red belly and blue chest, they are among the most colourful birds in the savannah.

We can hardly imagine that, say, a cheetah is patiently waiting somewhere behind the scenes for Peter

It's almost six o'clock when Peter confidently announces that he's going to look for big cats, preferably while they're chasing prey. That seems too ambitious to us. We can hardly imagine that, say, a cheetah is patiently waiting somewhere behind the scenes for Peter, ready to put on some sort of performance at his simple request.

 

Cheetah or hunting leopard

But Peter is not to be underestimated. To our utter amazement, he manages to locate two cheetahs fairly quickly. What is a piece of cake for him seems nearly impossible for us. It takes what feels like an eternity before our untrained eyes can spot the sneaking predators in the grass. Then, suddenly, the cheetahs start sprinting. Even a few zebras jump away nervously, although they have nothing to fear from these much smaller cats. It was probably a gazelle that the cheetahs were after, but they miss their chance. A little frustrated, they continue their search for dinner.

It was probably a gazelle that the cheetahs were after, but they miss their chance

 

Our own search for dinner is more successful. The buffet selection is tailored to European tastes. If there happens to be something Kenyan on offer – such as ugali, which is made from grains cooked into a thick porridge until it hardens – we unfortunately don't respond with much enthusiasm.

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Sunday 12 July | Samburu National Reserve

Half past six. Safari time. With just a cup of coffee in our system, we set off. Soon enough, a few zebras make their appearance. Not just any zebras, but actual Grevy’s zebras. They are distinguished from their more common counterparts by their larger size and thicker neck fur, but especially by their finer stripes and the complete absence of stripes on their white belly. That’s number 4 on our bucket list, as Grevy’s zebras are only found in this park. Moreover, as Peter informs us, only eighty-five remain in this park. That's shockingly few, as the species is critically endangered.

 

Grévy’s zebras

At an acacia bush, three gerenuks are grazing. One of them adopts the posture these antelopes are known for. Standing perfectly upright on its hind legs, it holds onto a branch with its front legs. Amusing, yet so characteristic. They can reach up to two meters high to nibble on leaves this way. But like the Grevy’s zebra, the gerenuk isn’t faring well either. According to Peter, only three hundred individuals remain in this park.

Standing perfectly upright on its hind legs, it holds onto a branch with its front legs

Gerenuk in characteristic pose

Waterbuck

A small group of impalas is grazing among the bushes. Such family groups consist solely of females and young, under the protection of one male. But they rarely enjoy peaceful gatherings. There’s always a bachelor group of young males lingering nearby. The older male frequently has to defend his harem against one of these rivals. If he loses, he’ll never see his harem again. However, if confronted by a lion, he will protect his harem by sacrificing himself. That's how it goes in a good marriage – not just the pleasures, but also the burdens.

However, if confronted by a lion, he will protect his harem by sacrificing himself

Vervet monkey

Impala

Peter points to a kigelia africana, commonly known as a sausage tree. It’s no surprise where the name comes from, as large sausage-shaped fruits, up to one meter long and fifteen centimetres thick, hang from the tree’s branches. The local population uses them to make moratina, a traditional local beer.

 

It’s not hard to find the culprit – a lioness is still calmly gnawing on its hindquarters

We cross the dried-up Ewaso Ng'iro river into Buffalo Springs. Technically, our jeep only has a permit for Samburu, but no one makes a fuss about it. Suddenly, Peter receives a message over the CB radio. Without hesitation, he starts speeding. A Grevy’s zebra lies dead on the ground, eyes wide open, its belly torn open, and its entrails loosely scattered in the grass. Bloodstains on its neck suggest the fatal bite. It’s not hard to find the culprit – a lioness is still calmly gnawing on its hindquarters. Death is a daily reality on the savanna. Literally. And now there are 84 Grevy’s zebras left, if our math is right.

 

East-African oryx or beisa

Gradually, a dozen tourist vans surround the carcass. The lioness, her appetite spoiled by all the commotion, slinks away with a blood-red muzzle. A lioness abandoning her kill without fear, that can only happen in Samburu, as no other predator will steal it. In the Masai Mara, things would turn out differently, Peter confidently notes.

 

Beisas can go without water for a very long time, even longer than a dromedary

That completes our Samburu Five – the Somali ostrich, the gerenuk, the reticulated giraffe, the Grevy’s zebra, and the beisa

Half a dozen large, well-built antelopes are grazing around a termite mound. Our luck couldn’t be better – these are East African oryxes, also known as beisas.

 

Dik-dik

Impalas (m)

That completes our Samburu Five – five animal species that you won’t find elsewhere in Kenya. In order of appearance, they are the Somali ostrich, the gerenuk, the reticulated giraffe, the Grevy’s zebra, and the beisa. However, as the future will show, we should take Peter’s claims with a grain of salt. To our mild surprise, we will encounter some members of the Samburu Five again in the south.

 

Lionesses

Still, these beisas remain impressive creatures. It’s very difficult to distinguish between males and females, although the females are slightly smaller. Both have impressive horns that can grow between 60 and 120 cm long. Beisas thrive in dry semi-deserts and open savannas, and they can go without water for a very long time, even longer than a dromedary.

 

Lionesses

Lion

Another message crackles over the CB radio. Peter immediately races to the zebra carcass, but it turns out there’s nothing going on there. We head down to the bushes where the lioness disappeared earlier. Here, there is indeed activity. Apparently, the lioness is part of a pride of about ten lionesses and cubs. The dance of the vans around the animals can begin. The lions don’t seem to mind; they cross the road between the vehicles.

 

Von der Decken's hornbill

Lioness

Then we spot the male lion, resting in the shade of an acacia tree. The commotion makes him nervous, as it only distracts from his leadership role. With the lionesses following closely behind, he seeks new horizons – an impressive parade through the savanna.

 

Elephants in the dry riverbed of the Ewaso Ng’iro

We cross the Ewaso Ng'iro on our way to our lodge. A herd of elephants strides through the dry riverbed as if they were filming a commercial for Côte d’Or. An old grave along the road reminds us that a Samburu village once existed here before the park was established in 1985.

 

Reticulated giraffes

At Peter's suggestion, we set out after breakfast to visit Lokuro, a kraal primarily inhabited by Samburu people, but also a few Turkana. The kraal is located atop a barren hill, where the occasional wind provides some coolness. A fence made of dry acacia bushes with long, sharp thorns keeps unwanted visitors out of the settlement.

The kraal is located atop a barren hill, where the occasional wind provides some coolness

Lokuro

There are about twenty-five huts, with walls and roofs made of thin branches. You can’t really call them waterproof, but the Samburu are nomads. They place little importance on permanent dwellings. Since rain is finally expected, they have improvised and covered the roofs with a chaotic amalgamation of paper, cardboard and textiles to keep the rainwater out to some extent.

 

Lokuro

 

Samuel, one of the residents, speaks enough English to address us on behalf of his fellow tribespeople. Outside the kraal, we are welcomed by a dozen male dancers adorned with ostrich feathers. The men will perform a welcoming dance for us. They accompany themselves vocally, but the choreography is more exotic than breathtaking. The women wear very wide neck collars made of colourful beads. The Samburu predominantly wear red beads, while the Turkana favour blue. As the women dance, they vigorously raise their neck collars with their shoulders and breasts. Accompanied by the singing and dancing men, we hop together into the kraal.

Outside the kraal, we are welcomed by a dozen male dancers adorned with ostrich feathers

Welcoming dance

The women wear very wide neck collars made of colourful beads. The Samburu predominantly wear red beads, while the Turkana favour blue

According to Samuel, a Samburu man is allowed to have up to ten wives. He claims he’s trying to convince his fellow tribesmen that one wife and four children is quite sufficient. Education is strongly promoted, especially English language education. Two young people from this kraal have even made it to university. Our financial contribution finances such scholarships, among other things – in the same breath he thanks us for our contribution that he hopes to receive.

 

 

 

Moreover, it is being successfully instilled in his fellow tribesmen that they should boil milk and water before consumption. Contaminated water once claimed many lives. Malaria and tuberculosis still take their toll. Medicine men continue to rely on natural plants and herbs, but that doesn’t always make a significant difference.

Through the low, narrow door we enter the dark interior of a hut. A few chicks run frightened between our feet to the outside. Naturally, the huts are circular, as this design prevents any spirits from lurking in the corners. The ceiling is quite high, we can actually stand up in it. This is a Turkana hut, those of the Samburu are lower.

A small area amid the dry acacia trees at the edge of the kraal serves as a school

The floor of the small room is partially covered with a cowhide. This is the sleeping area, where four people sleep. The remaining space serves as a kitchenette, where another four people sleep. Where we could barely stand comfortably with four people, they sleep with eight.

 

 

 

A small area amid the dry acacia trees at the edge of the kraal serves as a school. The teacher calls it kindergarten. He is a qualified educator and teaches at the primary school a few hundred meters away on the next hill during the week. On weekends, he initiates about twenty toddlers here. For us, they recite the English alphabet flawlessly. Four boys from the primary school conclude with the traditional song, If you’re happy and you know it, clap your hands.

The dry season also negatively affects student attendance, as more children must help their parents get through these tough times

Of course, these nomads don't have a real educational tradition, the teacher admits. When he hands out ballpoint pens, the toddlers sometimes break them. They love tearing paper into pieces. The dry season also negatively affects student attendance, as more children must help their parents get through these tough times. For primary education there is a kind of boarding school where children can stay if their parents move on

 

 

 

In the centre of the kraal, about fifty women have laid out the results of their artisanal labour on the ground. Sitting in two rows, their commercial expectations are very high. Interested, we shuffle among the bargains – neck collars, bracelets, masks, jewellery. Here and there, a few items change hands. As we make our way back to the jeeps, about ten young saleswomen walk down the hill, heading back to their own kraal.

The community fetches water from the river. Oddly enough, the river is completely dry. Therefore, they dig a funnel-shaped pit about a meter deep in the loose sand of the riverbed. They then wait for a sandy slurry to bubble up from below. The largest excess mud is quickly scooped away with a cup. What remains is a cloudy suspension of sand particles in water. That’s what they had to make do with until recently.

 

 

Further along the river, a water pump has been installed. We learn from Niausen – which fittingly means purity in her language – that it was indeed a Belgian couple who came forward with the necessary funds in April 2008. Originally, the initiative was not even about water but about education. With the money from tourists, a school had been established. However, during the dry season, skipping school was more the norm than the exception, as the children had to dig for water. So, they decided to install a water pump first, powered by a diesel generator. Drilling the well cost five thousand dollars, while the generator itself was two thousand dollars.

They dig a funnel-shaped pit about a meter deep in the loose sand of the riverbed. They then wait for a sandy slurry to bubble up from below

Digging for water in the riverbed

The water is pumped into a tank, which provides the local community with enough water for two to three days. We don’t even hold it against Niausen that she places the groundwater at a depth of six hundred meters.

The pump operator is also trained to perform minor repairs. However, maintenance, repairs, and the availability of spare parts seem to be the Achilles' heel of this project in such a remote area. Niausen insists that in a year and a half, there have only been a few trivial issues, all of which were resolved smoothly – though it required weeks of patience, which is something you get used to in Kenya.

 

Dry riverbed

We return to our lodge, just a few kilometres away along the bank of that same dried-up river. Bottles of mineral water await us there, along with showers with hot and cold running water, flushing toilets, and a swimming pool filled with crystal-clear water. The contrast couldn’t be greater.

Shortly after four, it’s safari time again. While observing a handful of Grevy’s zebras, Peter presents his favourite hypothesis about their black and white stripes. He suggests that the zebra is the only animal that can survive in full sunlight because the white stripes reflect sunlight. He also mentions that a worm resides in its digestive system, which remains inactive as long as there is enough food available. If food becomes scarce, the worm would then release nutrients to the zebra’s metabolism.

 

Weaver nests in acacias

Gradually, we climb to the foot of the hills and gain a beautiful view of the savannah plains. Weaver nests hang like Christmas baubles from the branches of many acacias. It’s precisely these carefully woven nests that give these birds their name.

The green boxes hanging in some trees are human-made. They contain poison that is fatal to flies, aiming to combat the spread of deadly diseases among animals.

High up in a tree, Peter points out a carcass. A leopard has stashed its lunch there. That’s a good sign, as we are on the lookout for leopards. The dry slope is strewn with boulders, where leopards sometimes like to lie down in the evening to soak up the remaining warmth. We see plenty of four-legged creatures – beisas, waterbucks, warthogs, and a giraffe – but leopards are not showing themselves for now.

A fork-tailed drongo on a branch is not the least bit startled by our presence. This dark blue bird is known for its aggressiveness and fearlessness. They sometimes even take on larger raptors when they attack their nests.

One ostrich egg is equivalent to 24 chicken eggs

Ostriches

A dozen ostriches walk ahead of us on the road. Their nests typically contain 18 to 42 enormous eggs, but only about six percent of those make it to adulthood. Many predators target the calorie-rich ostrich eggs – snakes, eagles, and jackals. After all, one ostrich egg is equivalent to 24 chicken eggs. We try to imagine what an ostrich omelette must look like.

 

One Grant's zebra, six Grévy’s zebras

About fifteen zebras barely catch our attention until Peter discovers that there are two common zebras, or Grant's zebras, in the group. They are somewhat smaller than the Grevy's zebras but are primarily distinguished by their broader black and white stripes that also run across their bellies. Unlike the Grevy's zebras, these common zebras are not endangered.

 

Vulturine guineafowl

 

Even for giants, life in the savannah poses dangers. Among the trees on the riverbank, a female elephant mourns over the body of her dead calf. Occasionally, she gently sways on her feet. Her herd has moved on, but she seems unable to say goodbye. It’s likely that a snake bite proved fatal for the calf. We know that death is a daily occurrence in the savannah, yet this poignant scene will forever be etched in our memories.

We know that death is a daily occurrence in the savannah, yet this poignant scene will forever be etched in our memories

Waterhole in dry riverbed

White-backed vultures

 

High in the trees along the river, about fifteen white-backed vultures are looking out over the scarce waterholes. Meanwhile, a herd of around twenty buffalo graze fearlessly a distance away from the river – together, they feel safe. Both males and females possess heavy, outwardly curved horns. The broad split in the horn-like material on their foreheads is only found in females. They can weigh up to nine hundred kilograms, and reaching ages of 30 years is not uncommon.

 

Buffaloes with calves

 

Again, Peter points out a carcass on a branch in a tree. There’s no sign of the culprit, but a couple of giraffes provide an alternative spectacle. Two of them are actually fighting. They swing their long necks wide and hit each other wherever they can. It looks somewhat comical, as the long necks move so slowly that you can see each strike coming seconds in advance.

 

Carcass of a leopard's prey

Grévy’s zebras

So you can't call it a flurry of flashy blows. Still, they patiently but gallantly await the opponent's strike, only to respond with a slow-motion swing of their own. There is no clear winner in this duel.

 

The idea that giraffes developed long necks to eat leaves high in the trees has long been relegated to the realm of fable

It is often believed that giraffes evolved long necks to reach leaves high in the trees. However, this explanation has long been dismissed as a myth. During the dry season, when food is scarce and competition is fiercest, giraffes appear to feed primarily on low shrubs, not tall trees

Fights like the one we just witnessed have led biologists to consider a different theory. Today, the long neck is seen as a result of sexual selection. Males with the longest and heaviest necks are thought to have a better chance of defeating their rivals and mating with females.

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Jaak Palmans
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